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PHOTOS BY GABBY MALVAR AND CHRISTINE CUNANAN.
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VOL.8 - ISSUE 5
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CITY FOR THE AGES GABBY MALVAR falls for the timeless charm of Istanbul
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Istanbul is not only symbolically but also literally at the crossroads of continents. The Bosphorus unites, connecting two major seas; and also separates, as it detaches Europe and Asia. This divide is characteristic of Istanbul and all of Turkey itself.
eated on a park bench in Sultanahmet Meydani, amidst shrieking hawkers, seagulls darting overhead and a multitude that never thins out, I admired two venerable symbols of great civilizations with equal esteem almost simultaneously by merely turning my head from side to side. The icons, illuminated by flood lights against the day’s dimming gleam, stand opposite each other on the great square as though in a face-off, futilely out-lording each other, buffered by a spacious central green with spouting fountains and a thousand years of existence. On one side, the powerful Hagia Sophia, which means holy wisdom, sets a high standard for architectural design. The complex exudes grandeur and exemplifies the glory and refinement of an ancient Byzantine basilica notwithstanding the unembellished brickwork that typifies its exterior. Equivalently, the interior conveys a heavenly feel.
MAGNIFICENCE ALL AROUND Earlier, as I stood beneath a glorious golden dome held aloft by staggering Corinthian columns, a sense of overwhelming vastness filled me. A number of figurative iconoclastic mosaics adorning the walls and appearing to flicker, likewise provided a compatible type of amazement. The frescoes depicted Christ and the Virgin Mary, yet Byzantine emperors managed to incorporate themselves into the religious scenes. The curious contexts, however, did not diminish the remarkable works of art. Ottoman features had been added eventually to the basilica after the conquest of Constantinople—minarets, tombs, a minbar, and huge wooden roundels bearing the names of the four revered caliphs who followed the Prophet Mohammed—yet the church’s Byzantine character and cathedral essence prevail.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE Its Moorish counterpart, the composed Blue Mosque on the other side of the square, vied for my attention as well. Cylinders, semi-domes, and domes, carefully layered and arranged, come together in a graceful and mesmerizing facade above an arcade. Six lofty spindly minarets extend to the heavens, seemingly seeking to upstage the grandeur of Mecca itself when it was first constructed in the early 1600s. The Blue Mosque is not merely a structure; it is a practicing mosque where devotees can pray under a blue-hued dome from where the masjid takes its name. Calligraphic inscriptions from the Qur’an on tablets reinforce its identity as a place of worship. Twenty thousand Iznik tiles with floral and fruit designs command the interior walls. Light emanates from over two hundred stained-glass windows and the hanging chandeliers that hover much closer to the red-carpeted floor than the ceiling.
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ALL ABOUT LOCATION It is said that if God ruled the world from the earth, Istanbul would be His chosen headquarters. I go even further to declare that whether He manifests himself as Allah or the Christian deity, He would have the finest choices of addresses from where to hold office. That the greatest symbols and crowning glories of two great empires – if not major religions – exist within the same metropolis, let alone almost beside each other, sets Istanbul apart even from other noted cities and elevates it to a category all to itself. Istanbul, the city where it stands, is timeless and truly transcendent. It has gone through much transformation, from its very name itself to its own constitution, essence, and purpose, belying a majesty, sophistication, and intricacy that can only be attained by the length and depth of its history, cementing its status as a city for the ages.
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A GREAT TURKISH LEADER MUSTAFA KEMAL ATATÜRK fought for the independence of Turkey from foreign occupation and largely contributed to the country’s reforms. After the declaration of the Republic of Turkey in October 1923, he was elected as the first president of the country.
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SAILING THROUGH THE AGES The Strait of Bosphorus is an essential passage that connects the Black Sea with the Mediterranean Sea via the Sea of Marmara. Even in ancient times, the waterway was a trade route where ships sailed, transporting goods and produce to the regions in the north and south. It was fated that a settlement would rise along its banks. The Greeks who first recognized its strategic importance established a colony on an easy-to-defend inlet on the European side of the Bosphorus from where trade could be commanded and influenced. This colony known as Byzantine—from Byzas, the Greek frontiersman who led the expedition—prospered and grew in stature. For over two millennia, it would rise and fall, be razed and reconstructed, vanquished and retaken by the Greeks, Persians, Romans, and Ottomans, renamed several times with the advent of a new conqueror.
The Istanbul Checklist
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The 15th century TOPKAPI PALACE (topkapisarayi.gov.tr), former court of the Ottoman Empire, is now a museum exhibiting ancient Ottoman artifacts. The DOLMABAHCE PALACE (www.dolmabahcepalace.com) was once the administrative center of Istanbul and the residence of sultans through the ages, as well as of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, founder of modern Turkey. It contains the Harem-i Humayun for the sultan and his family, Mabeyn-i Humayun for state affairs, and Muayede for important ceremonies. The GALATA TOWER, constructed during the Byzantine Empire, is considered the tallest structure towering over Istanbul. TAKSIM SQUARE is the modern center of Istanbul. ORTAKOY, a former fishing village, has become a popular tourist destination, with many cafes and teashops, due to its proximity to the Bosphorus Bridge. Don’t miss the Ortakoy Mosque, built in the 18th century. BOSPHORUS BRIDGE is the fourth longest suspension bridge in the world, connecting Europe and Asia. The CHORA MUSEUM (www.choramuseum.com) is covered with beautiful mosaics and frescoes depicting the life and death of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mother. Undoubtedly one of the must-visit spots of old Istanbul, the BALAT NEIGHBORHOOD is a mile long stretch of colorful and uniquely designed houses perfect for Instagram snapshots.
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TALES OF GREATNESS This city is a living testament to the great civilizations of the mighty Byzantine and Ottoman empires, which between them dominated for over 17 centuries. Constantinople was a nexus of the ancient world so the great emperor Constantine moved the capital of the Roman Empire, along with the erudition and enlightenment of the classical milieu, to its eastern counterpart.
The essence of each era permeates in grand monuments or in simple symbols. Vestiges and nuances are spread throughout the capital—amidst a jumble of imperial fortifications such as the Theodosian Walls, and in engineering marvels like the cavernous Basilica Cistern and the water-carrying aqueducts. And even in the configuration of pavilions that make up the Topkapi Palace complex, including the labyrinth of chambers of the sultan’s harem.
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corners of its territory, which spanned Europe, Africa, and Asia at its height. The richness in culture and the multiplicity of influences are on exhibit in the galleries of the Archaeological Museum, the ceilings and walls of the Church of St. Saviour in Chora, and in the lavish halls of imperial Dolmabahce Palace; as well as in hidden courtyards and steaming hammams, in the tangle of narrow lanes, and also in the mundane daily lives. Sarcophagi, carpets,
The essence of each era permeates in grand monuments or simple symbols. Nuances are spread throughout the capital amidst a jumble of imperial fortifications
The Ottoman conquest of Constantinople not only brought a change to the name of the city to Istanbul, but also ushered in a golden age where architecture, the arts, calligraphy, and ceramic making flourished.
TESTAMENT OF GRANDEUR The city is a grand museum in itself, showcasing a wealth of treasures and antiquities of over two millennia of civilizations gathered from the various
jewels, ceramics, glassware, calligraphy, musical instruments, mosaics—a plurality of voices echo stories of the significant past; each tale, an indispensable fractal in the magnificent chaos that is Istanbul.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE CLASH OF CIVILIZATIONS One of the more classical experiences in Istanbul is to walk along the Galata bridge, among the throngs of locals with their lines cast to the waters of the Golden Horn, to take in the views of the city.
Istanbul is a grand museum in itself, showcasing a wealth of treasures and antiquities of over two millennia of civilizations gathered from the various corners of its territory, which spanned Europe, Africa, and Asia at its height.
The skyline on the European side is cluttered with spires and domes amidst a staggering ensemble of neat buildings, tenements, and boisterous bazaars on rolling hills that evoke the rising and falling of fortunes and empires. Its Islamic character is pre-eminent in the countless mosques that struggle to remain inconspicuous. Istanbul will have you believe that the clash of civilizations is not inevitable, that a hybrid or a synthesis, if not a coexistence, is possible. That the death of one culture is not a pre-requisite for the survival of another. The past and present, the East and West, meld continually. To appreciate this cosmopolitan city is to be intrigued with the possibilities of integration and assimilation while acknowledging the contradictions.
THE GREAT DIVIDE “My wife is Russian,” quipped Turgay, my local contact, a tall imposing Turk with deep-set eyes and pronounced features, yet with a good-natured demeanor that inspires trust. We were ploughing northward along the Bosphorus in the direction of the Black Sea in one of the commercial vessels that offer round-trip cruises from Eminonu, the busiest ferry terminal in all of Istanbul. The entire journey takes more than three hours, which is time enough to discuss the sites and attractions, as well as love and marriage, along the way. “I talk to her in Russian, she speaks to me in Turkish. That’s our arrangement so we can both improve our fluency of the languages,” he shares. “But her Turkish is better than my Russian.” It appears that Istanbul and its people are always at the middle ground of cultures and ways of life, disposed to divergent influences.
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However, Istanbul is not only symbolically but also literally at the crossroads of continents. The Bosphorus unites, connecting two major seas; and also separates, as it detaches Europe and Asia. This divide is characteristic of Istanbul and all of Turkey itself. It is always regarded as “too Asian” by the westerners or “too European” by those from the East. It is indispensable to be a part of NATO, but not beneficial enough to warrant integration into the European Union.
LIFE ON THE WATER The Bosphorus teemed with a legion of vessels—water taxis, ferries, and catamarans—plying back and forth and transferring passengers across the European and Asian sides, and to villages along the water. It seemed like a timeless occurrence. Ships sailed as they always have, powered by the wind or by oarsmen, dating from the days of subjugation and siege to when antique caiques transferred the affluent inhabitants of the elegant summer residences to their destinations along the straits. There was the blasting of horns, the clanging of bells, and squawking of drifting seabirds—the all too familiar sounds of bustling waters in constant change.
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Historic and Sacred Beauties
The Hagia Sophia (ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr) began life as a church and then it became a mosque. Often described as the epitome of Byzantine architecture because of its dome and intricate mosaics, this was the largest cathedral in the world until the Seville Cathedral was built in the 16th century. The Blue Mosque (www.bluemosque.co) is covered with blue tiles. Its brilliant architecture and design has made it one of the most popular attractions in Istanbul. Located near the Golden Horn, the Rustem Pasha Mosque, designed by Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan, includes gold ceilings and colorful Iznik tiles.
The ancient Greeks considered the Straits of Bosphorus the edge of the known world and the mythological Jason sailed aboard his ship Argo in his quest for the Golden Fleece. I am amusingly on the lookout for something that could resemble the Symplegades, two colossal rock formations that came together and smashed ships passing through. Istanbul stretches out its boundless exuberance into the sprawling hills and throughout the length of the coast. Magnificent palaces, distinguished mosques, wooden waterside villas, fine clubs and dining establishments are scattered along with Middle Age fortresses and former fishing villages, completing a sweeping accumulation of style, form, finesse, and age. Waterfront entrances underscore a fundamental truth; though roads now run parallel to the shores, it is the Bosphorus that injected life to this metropolis and is still essential in its continuing progress.
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The ship approached the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, the imposing bridge that connects the European and Asian sides of Istanbul at the narrowest point of the channel. It was here that I finally realized what it means to straddle two continents, and understood the challenges and opportunities that went with it. There is simply no other city quite like Istanbul. n
Special thanks to the Embassy of Turkey, Turkish Tourism and Information Office (Kuala Lumpur), and Turkish Airlines.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE BAZAAR HOPPING The Grand Bazaar is Turkey’s largest covered market with stores selling carpets, ceramics, and jewelry. www.grandbazaaristanbul.org The Spice Market (or Egyptian Bazaar) sells cheese, herbs, and spices in a grand setting worth seeing even if you don’t plan on buying.
A TURKISH TALISMAN The Turkish nazar is an amulet or talisman believed to ward off the “evil eye” and provide protection to the bearer. The concept of the “evil eye” (kem göz in Turkish) stems from a belief that harm or misfortune can befall someone consciously or unconsciously through well-intentioned compliments that have a dose of envy. The nazar protects the bearer by reflecting back the evil intent through the “eye.”
THE king OF HAGIA SOPHIA With its grand design and rich history, visitors to Hagia Sophia are easily mesmerized by it. However, animal lovers will be delighted to know that Gli, a striped gray and gold tabby, proudly calls the Hagia Sophia his home. He has lived in this sacred space since he was a kitten, and he has welcomed many guests into the Hagia Sophia, including heads of state. He is so popular that he has his own Tumblr page (hagiasophiacat.tumblr.com) and Facebook page (www.facebook.com/HagiaSophiaCat).
A Taste of Turkey
Turkish coffee involves placing the best extra-fine grind Arabica coffee beans into a cveze, a Turkish coffee pot. After stirring the pot for one minute on low flame, the coffee is allowed to boil and then poured into a fincan, a Turkish coffee cup.
Turkish tea is made of bold-flavored black tea typically served in a tulip-shaped glass without milk.
Turkish delight, which comes in many varieties, is typically inspired by local flavors such as rosewater, pomegranate, and orange. This sweet and chewy cubed delicacy is usually covered with icing sugar or mixed with dried fruit or nuts.
Kokoreç is made of flavorful offal such as sweetbread, intestines, lungs, and kidney threaded into a long skewer to be roasted and then served as a sandwich.
Kebabs are roasted or grilled meats and vegetables on skewers.
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A POCKETFUL OF TURKEY
Don’t leave without bringing these items home Turkish carpets. Knotted and woven carpets, usually handcrafted in the countryside and adorned with traditional designs. A Turkish carpet is superb in quality if the design is mirrored on the back with a high number of knots present. Lamps. Turkish lamps produce colorful lights from the glass shards pieced together as mosaic designs. Shisha. The Arabic word for hookah, shisha is a water pipe that filters tobacco smoke through water.
Tiles. Turkish tiles have cool and soothing colors, with different shades of blue and purple in intricate floral or geometric designs. These tiles are highly valued and often passed on within families from generation to generation. Ceramics. Local ceramics illustrate the traditions and history of Turkey, with designs unique to a specific craftsman and his family. The artisan’s name is usually written on the ceramic piece itself. Spices. Sumac, red pepper, Urfa pepper, thyme, and oregano are intrinsic parts of Turkish cuisine.
Food. Turkey is known for its quality and variety, as well as for being the world’s largest producer of hazelnuts.
LOVE IN THE TIME OF TURKISH COFFEE
FRESHLY BAKED Simit is a crunchy circular-type of bread coated with sesame seeds usually eaten for breakfast. Street vendors may offer a variety of fillings for this, such as cheese, olive paste, and sucuk (Turkish spicy sausages). Börek is a baked pastry made of phyllo, which is a type of flaky and unleavened dough, that usually has savory fillings such as feta cheese, minced meat, and ground peppers then topped with sesame seeds. Baklava is a sweet and rich pastry made of layers of sweetened phyllo and nuts such as pistachio or walnuts that are held together by a generous amount of syrup like honey or rosewater.
A man seeking a woman’s hand in marriage must visit the woman’s family, bringing chocolates and flowers. Custom dictates that the woman must prepare Turkish coffee for everyone, and if she likes the man and wants to marry him, she will put lots of sugar into the Turkish coffee. If she doesn’t like him, she will put pepper or salt into the coffee, signifying that she does not want to marry him.
WORLDWIDE CONNECTION SKYROAM is a pocket-size portable router that allows travelers to stay connected to the internet with its virtual SIM technology. This handy travel essential that works in over 80 countries can accommodate up to five Wi-Fi enabled devices such as smartphones and tablets. www.bigskynation.com
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HISTORY ON A PLATE
Asitane also has a team of consultants, private collectors, and history professors of who have studied the archives of various palaces in Turkey for information. With their help, over 360 recipes have been recreated to relive Turkish history via a memorable dining experience. Menus change twice a year and are adapted to the availability of ingredients each season. Asitane Treats. A starter plate consisting of salad made of cheese with pounded cucumber and pistachios (1844); creamed broad beans seasoned with dill and drizzled with olive oil; fresh cottage cheese with scallions, parsley and green peppers, seasoned with rosemary and paprika (1898); and crushed chickpeas lightly pureed with currants, pine nuts, and cinnamon (1469).
Stuffed Calamari with Shrimps. A Byzantine dish of calamari baked with a mixture of rice, pine nuts, and currants flavored with cinnamon and fresh mint. Sailor’s Roll. A fried pastry filled with four kinds of Turkish cheeses and peas, and then drizzled with honey. This classic dish from the 15th century is a lovely symphony of sweet and salty, served on the third or fourth day of a 14-day feast for the sons of Suleiman the Magnificent. Stuffed Melon. This 1539 recipe is a celebration of summer with its sweet baked melon base filled with minced meat, rice, herbs, almonds, and currants. Sea Bass “Biryan.” Sumac, a traditional Turkish spice, is blended with saffron to create a flavorful marinade for grilled sea bass stuffed with walnuts, and cloves. www.asitanerestaurant.com
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PHOTOS BY BRYAN AREVALO.
Next door to the Byzantine church and museum St. Savior Church in Chora is Asitane, a 25-year-old restaurant noted for its unique Ottoman cuisine. Its chefs spent years researching recipes and cooking techniques from as far back as the 13th century.
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EXCHANGE RATE 1 US Dollar = 2.91 Turkish Lira
HOW TO GET THERE Turkish Airlines offers direct flights from Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, and Manila to Istanbul.
WHEN TO GO Spring, from April until June, is the best time as the days are longer and the skies are relatively clear.
WHERE TO STAY PARK BOSPHORUS HOTEL The panoramic views of the city and Bosphorus Strait are unparalleled from this luxurious and historic hotel, whose heritage building previously served as the headquarters of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Palace over a century ago. www.parkbosphorus.com SWISSOTEL THE BOSPHORUS This hotel offers the best of both worlds with its ideal location near sophisticated neighborhoods with excellent shopping and lively nightlife, while also offering peace and serenity via its lush 65-acre gardens and its award-winning Purovel Spa & Sport. www.swissotel.com FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ISTANBUL AT THE BOSPHORUS The Four Seasons Hotel houses guests in a former 19th century Ottoman palace with grand yet clean architectural design. www.fourseasons.com TOMTOM SUITES One of the best boutique hotels in Istanbul, this former convent building now houses chic rooms and an excellent rooftop restaurant. www.tomtomsuites.com
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ARMAGGAN BOSPORUS SUITES Situated by the banks of the Bosphorus, the Armaggan Suites consists of three perfectly restored yalis (waterfront mansions) that can be availed of as three separate houses or as a single residence for guests. The suites guarantee an intimate yet luxurious stay. www.armagganbosporus.com
WHERE TO EAT NICOLE RESTAURANT Enjoy sophisticated Mediterranean cuisine with a breathtaking view of the Princes’ Islands, at the hands of a talented couple who trained in famous Paris restaurants before setting up on their own. www.nicole.com.tr MEZE BY LEMON TREE Meze comes from the Persian word maze (snack) and mazidan (to taste). Today, the word meze refers to small dishes of appetizers usually served with raki, the traditional Turkish alcoholic beverage. However, Meze by Lemon Tree elevates these concepts with their daily menus filled with inventive and traditional meze, as well as heartier main courses. www.mezze.com.tr AQUA Let your palate take a break from flavorful Turkish cuisine and savor delicious Italian dishes at this restaurant by the Bosphorus. www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus/
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