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LAND SEA Embraced by the
MICHELLE BARRERA basks in the warm hospitality and rich culture of Hakodate
PHOTOS BY XXXXXXX.
Most people don’t know that Hakodate is the Christian capital of Japan. Christianity originally began in the Kyushu region, but it was in Hakodate where it flourished and remains one of the largest areas for Christianity even today. What is even lesser known is that the monasteries and convents in and around Hakodate produce and sell excellent shortbread cookies.
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W
e landed in chilly Hakodate after a short flight from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport. We were welcomed by a huge banner that read “Welcome to Hokkaido,” by our hosts Nina, Kei, and Nami. Kei, in particular, was very knowledgeable and gave us excellent background and history throughout the trip.
Hakodate, the third largest province in the Hokkaido region, has been voted the top city to visit in Japan for many consecutive years, sharing the top spots with Sapporo and Kyoto. Known for its excellent dairy products as well as for its beef, melon, and seafood – especially squid or ika – the province is also popular for its rich history.
In fact, our first stop was the oldest Trappistine convent in Japan, founded by eight nuns in 1898. The original building was destroyed in a fire and was only reconstructed in 1927. The convent is completely self-sufficient; the nuns plant their own fruits, vegetables, and root crops, and anything that needs to be bought is funded by the sweets and biscuits the nuns make and sell. The nuns live a very devout life, so guests are only allowed to view the façade of the buildings, but are not allowed to enter any others except the chapel and museum. We also visited the picturesque Trappist Monastery, founded by nine monks in 1896. Just like the convent, this was also completely self-sufficient and usually only open to the public for Sunday services at the chapel, keeping the rest of the monastery private. The walk up to the grotto was so worth it for the view, even with the sprinkle of chilly rain on the way up. From the top, we could see the Hakodate port in the distance, snuggled between mountains and forest.
We had heard so much about the ice cream in the region, so we grabbed a soft serve for the road and headed to lunch at Lucky Pierrot, a burger chain with a themed restaurant that’s unique to Hakodate. They serve a variety of burgers, fries, and local fast food dishes and sweets. We had the Chinese chicken burger, and it was delicious!
WATER PARADISE With satisfied bellies, we made our way to Onuma Park for a cruise around the lake. There was little time to spare so we took advantage of one of the trails and found ourselves camera-happy with the incredibly crisp and pristine lake views that were bursting with autumn colors. It was a complete sensory overload; I was frustrated that my lens was unable to capture the beauty my eyes had witnessed, although thankfully, some photos of the water and trees did these some justice.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF HAKODATE PHOTO LIBRARY.
Most people don’t know, however, that this region is the Christian capital of Japan. Christianity originally began in the Kyushu region, but eventually it worked its way up to Hakodate where it flourished and remains one of the largest areas for Christianity in the country. What is even lesser known is that the monasteries and convents in and around Hakodate produce and sell excellent shortbread cookies.
DEVOTION AMIDST THE VIEWS
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The lake cruise took us to an old volcano, Mt. Komagatake, originally said to be 1,700 meters high; but a major eruption caused its top to blow off so that the mountain now stands at 1,357 meters at its lava dome. During winter, the mountain and its neighboring peaks are covered in snow, and the lake freezes to allow snowmobile tours and sledding on the ice.
A Tasty Insight to Hakodate
OF A STAR AND A RED MOON We arrived at Goryokaku Tower just in time for sunset. As we walked through the star-shaped park and fork, and then through the old commissioner’s house within the park, I learned that the shape of the park was designed in order to allow more guns to be placed on its walls than the traditional fortresses at the time, while reducing blind spots for firing.
A quick visit to the Konbu Museum (www.konbukan.co.jp) gave us a tasty insight to the different varieties of seaweed collected and produced in Hakodate. Here, we learned more about the history and beneficial aspects of konbu consumption in food and cosmetics. A souvenir shop offers samplers for tasting of konbu flavored products – from soups and candies to pickles, and of course, ice cream!
Originally opened to the public in 1910, the park water supply was purposely constructed to allow water to flow from the port, but having proven to be dangerous, the land was reclaimed and it became part of the major city roads. The surrounding moat that separates the fort from the rest of the city now serves as a running trail for locals. The beautiful flora within the fortress is immaculately kept, with more than a thousand cherry blossom trees around the park wall – making it one of the most coveted places to visit in spring. Sun-kissed and completely in awe of this new city, we headed to Mt. Hakodate for dinner at the observatory. As if we hadn’t been blessed enough with breathtaking views all day, we arrived at the observatory and were greeted by a very large, red moon rising over the city by the port edge. It was an amazing sight, and we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner before calling it a night.
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A QUICK MARKET RUN Bright and early the next day, excited to explore before the day officially began, I took to the streets and ran along the sea wall through the length of the city along with the rising sun. Winter had definitely arrived, and the air was fresh and crisp. Then we headed for the market where we witnessed how dried squid was made. The streets got very busy quickly, with seafood stands selling live hairy crab – which the region is known for – along with other local seafood; and fruit stands filled with Hokkaido’s famous melon. This melon, unlike any other you will try elsewhere, is bursting with juicy flavor. There were also different varieties of white and red seedless grapes, all with their own unique flavors. They were huge, too, and biting into them was like popping grape jelly into your mouth. The main market building was filled with more fresh produce, a flower shop, and some craft stores. An area at the back
HAKODATE
We exited the wholesale area and were led to a small, but popular, stall where, for a minimal fee, one could catch their own live squid and have it cooked or prepared as sashimi on the spot. On the way out, we passed a small shop that served a selection of stuffed pao buns. It was here that we discovered a delicious hairy crab pao that was so sweet, fresh, and juicy, nestled in the warm pao bun – definitely something I wished I could take home!
A LITTLE BIT OF EAST AND WEST In the residential area of Hakodate popularly known as Motomachi, most homes were built in the early 1900s in an unusual and somewhat eclectic combination: they were traditional
All Dressed and Everywhere to Go I’ve always wondered what it was like to dress up for a traditional Japanese-style wedding, and at Hakodate Bay, I had a chance to find out for myself. At the Kazuyoshi Hakodate Modern Rental Costume Center, I found myself being dressed up into a traditional kimono complete with socks and Japanese slippers, hair and makeup. I wore the uchikake kimono over the silk inner kimono, and then I took a walk around the bay area to get a feel of what it’s like to wear this beautiful piece of fashionable art. I learned that various kimono styles were specific to marital status and various occasions. The furisode kimono has long swinging sleeves and is usually worn by unmarried women, whereas kimono with shorter sleeves are worn by married women. Meanwhile, a kimono with a pair of cranes in its pattern symbolizes longevity, good fortune, and a happy marriage.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE Japanese on the ground floor and western-style on the upper floor. These homes actually gave Hakodate its name: “Hako” meaning box, and “Date” meaning house, and the Ainu word “Hak-casi” meaning “small manor house.” We visited Motomachi Church, last rebuilt in 1921 after a great fire. Since Hakodate has no river systems, the roads were constructed as fire routes with cleared, wide roads from the top of the hills all the way into the city. After several full days of exploring Hakodate, I found myself at a public foot spa, located in an intersection in the middle of an island. Natural hot spring water filters through to the footbaths, where locals sit and soak tired feet after a long day of walking and working. While the footbath soothed my weary feet, I yearned for more. The town of Yunokawa is known for its hot springs, and there is no better way to experience this than at one of the well-appointed hotels along the coast where one can try an onsen bath to soak away one’s weariness and then retire for the night in a traditional Japanese-style tatami room. I awoke refreshed the next morning for my return flight home, yet not quite ready for the sad farewell to our gracious hosts and the warm culture of Hakodate. I left with a loving longing to return to this lovely and culturally rich destination. n
ITALIAN FLAVORS IN A JAPANESE RESIDENTIAL TOWN Minato No Mori (hkumaiyo.com/beerhall/minatonomori), a hop, skip, and a jump away from the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses, serves Italian dishes inspired by local flavors. Everything was delicious and the presentation was well done, especially when it came to the risotto prepared in a Parmesan wheel. This hearty, yet healthy lunch prepares one for an afternoon walking tour through the hills of Hakodate to see its many fire routes, churches, and unique residential structures.
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RETRACING THE STEPS OF
HOKKAIDO’S LAST SAMURAI
PHOTOS BY XXXXXXX.
CEIA YLAGAN follows a brave warrior’s valiant efforts to defend his masters in Hakodate’s not-so-distant past
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ADDITIONAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF HAKODATE PHOTO LIBRARY. ADDITIONAL TEXT BY PAULEEN GENERAL.
I
t was the million dollar view. Japan’s best and one of the world’s top three night views, vying against Hong Kong and Naples.
I pulled my scarf snugly around my neck and tugged my coat collar closer to hug my nape. It was 8 degrees Celsius, and I was standing at the topmost deck of the Mt. Hakodate Ropeway (334.co.jp). My arrival in Hakodate was perfect; it was twilight and the evening sky was shifting from a vivid cobalt to inky black. This was the best way to begin my first trip to this coastal city in southern Hokkaido. A quick three-minute ride on the ropeway led to the top of the Mt. Hakodate viewing deck where I saw how Hakodate is tucked between two bodies of water: the Tsugaru Strait and Hakodate Bay. Surrounded by water on three sides, Hakodate’s location makes it the perfect place to try some of the best seafood in the world. But the food and the views weren’t the only reasons I flew to this peninsula at the southernmost end of Japan’s second biggest island. I came to get to the bottom of an interesting story.
HAKODATE
A SAMURAI’S TALE During this visit to Hokkaido, I was introduced to a historical figure whose bravery and loyalty left an imprint in the minds and hearts of the Japanese. This hero’s name was Hijikata Toshijzo, a medicine salesman who had long wanted to be a samurai. Unfortunately, he was not born into a family of samurai. By sheer fate perhaps, Hijikata met Kondo Isami, a highly skilled swordsman who ran a dojo, and this was where he learned how to fight like a samurai. Together with other swordsmen, they formed the Shinsengumi, a special kind of military police created to protect the Tokugawa shogunate who were being threatened by the developments taking place in the Meiji Restoration. Now, whether or not Hijikata is indeed a hero or not depends on whose side you are on—the shogunate or the Meiji Restoration supporters. But for the Japanese, Hijikata Toshijzo symbolized loyalty and bravery, particularly in the face of defeat. For this, some consider him Japan’s last true samurai. Thus, I decided to retrace the footsteps of this famed historical figure in Hakodate.
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A Kingdom of Flowers
Matsumae Park was built around the ruins of the 17th century Matsumae Castle which played a vital role in Hokkaido politics and economics. Today the park is home to over 10,000 cherry trees of at least 250 different varieties. Visitors can learn more about cherry trees at the reference library in the park, where cherry blossom-related paintings and artifacts are also on display.
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MOTOMACHI’S MAGICAL 3 Explore Motomachi’s three main roads: 1 Motoi-saka, which leads up to the Old Public Hall and park
2 Daizan-saka, a cobble-stone road considered one of Japan’s best roads from which one can see the steeples of Hakodate’s three churches
3 Hachiman-saka, the picturesque road which leads to the port
I started my impromptu history lesson at Goryokaku Park and Tower (goryokaku-tower. co.jp). The 98-meter tall tower was built to allow visitors a bird’s eye view of the fort below, particularly during the peak of each season when the greenery below changes color. The star-shaped fort transforms from a pale pink cloud of cherry blossoms in spring to a vibrant sea of green in summer to a golden ombre of red and yellow in autumn – and finally, to a white carpet of snow in winter. There are two levels from which to view the park. At the observatory, a diorama featuring narrates the history of Hakodate and how it came to embrace Western influences. The tower’s viewing deck had sections with glass flooring which showed the street several meters down from beneath our feet. Hijikata had tried to keep this very fort, but he died while protecting it and the shogunate. This was where Hijikata and the Shinsengumi first captured Ezo (Hokkaido’s old name) and this was also where they lost the battle against the Imperial army.
MEMORIES OF A BATTLE The first Western-style fort in Japan, Goryokaku Fort is shaped uniquely into a star – a brilliant military design that forced attackers into a trap where defenders from within the fort were able to launch a simultaneous attack on both sides. Today, Goryokaku is a beautiful park that attracts visitors all year round. However, it’s most ideal for hanami (cherry blossom viewing). As I sat on the grass pondering on the park’s war-torn history, schoolchildren rushed about, laughing as they flew kites. There were no traces of death or conflict on these grounds – only hope and the promises of the future.
A TOWN WHERE TIME STANDS STILL However, Hijikata’s story didn’t start and end at Goryokaku Fort. His excellent leadership and cunning military strategy brought them victory when they overthrew the troops at Matsumae Castle. He and the Shinsengumi established the “Republic of Ezo” here in 1869 with an organized election which some consider to be one of the first democratic acts in Japan, as well as one of the first real attempts to bringing together the northern island and the rest of Japan.
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Before visiting the castle, three hours’ drive from Hakodate, I decided to have lunch at a ryokan nearby that served a special tuna lunch. The meal was served inside a small ryokan-style room with a low table at the center. I sat on the pillow with my legs folded under me, and just as I got settled, a young lady started setting plates of food on the table. At the center of each plate lay several slices of raw tuna, freshly caught from the next village just that morning. A steaming bowl of broth, made from kelp, a local delicacy, also beckoned to me with its salty warmth. The 250 varieties of cherry blossom trees at the castle grounds bloom at different times throughout the span of a month, allowing visitors to enjoy hanami for a longer period than usual. A cherry blossom tree usually only has a week in full bloom after which the leaves start to fall. I had missed the peak of cherry blossom season in Hokkaido, but at Matsumae Castle, I was not disappointed. There were still hundreds of trees abloom, in varying shades of pink, that created a picturesque landscape for a romantic picnic or a relaxing and lazy afternoon just lying on the grass with a good book.
HAKODATE
Amidst the idyllic surroundings, it felt like time had stopped and I was in a period of peace when Hijikata and the rest of the Shinsengumi watched over Matsumae. It was short-lived, much like the precious sakura.
A CONVERGENCE OF CULTURES After Hijikata’s death, the Shinsengumi eventually surrendered to the Imperial army. Despite this loss, Hakodate emerged strong and became a busy trading port that welcomed many merchants from far away lands. And truly, Hakodate is convergence of cultures. There is no better place to see this than at the Motomachi District, a neighborhood with sloping streets at the base of Mt. Hakodate. Its streets are lined with homes and shops that show off a unique fusion of both Western and Japanese aethestics. One afternoon, I purposely meandered the streets of Motomachi. Walking up Motoisaka towards the park, a grand blue-andyellow structure caught my eye. This was the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward (zaidan-hakodate.com/koukaido), a town hall built as a replacement for the original one that was gutted in a fire.
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A Theme Park from the Past Matsumae Clan Mansion is a theme park created to show local life in the Edo period. Visitors can know more about architecture during those times through replicas of traditional samurai houses, shops, and offices. They can also try on kimono or samurai armor for a truly authentic experience of 19th century Matsumae life.
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This colonial-style building was funded by local residents, but mostly by a prominent Hakodate businessman. This was used as the Imperial family’s official residence when visiting Hokkaido, but nowadays, the main hall is used as a concert hall. Standing at the balcony overlooking Hakodate Bay, I could almost hear the boats coming into the port and feel the breeze by the bayside. A few blocks further led me to a quiet residential street lined with homes that were unique to Hakodate. These houses clearly exhibited both Western-style designs alongside local Japanese architecture – or more specifically, with the top half of a more modern Western design, while its ground floor were traditional Japanese-style Clearly, this was the perfect example of the merging of two different cultures. It took some getting used to, and I had to pass several houses down the street before the initial shock wore off.
WHERE PAST MEETS PRESENT One of the important changes brought about by the Meiji Restoration in Hakodate was the opening of the port to international trade. Hakodate flourished with the influx of these traders, and the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses (hakodatekanemori.com) along the Hakodate port bears witness to this. Today, the Kanemori buildings house chic restaurants and shops. These red brick structures have been transformed into a romantic setting, with the streetlamps illuminating the paths in the evenings, while the squid fishing boats in the distance are all aglow. The port may not be as busy as it used to be, but it still continues to attract visitors in many other ways.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE The sun was just setting, and it was still too early for dinner. I sat on one of the benches facing the port to rest my tired feet. The water was still and despite the chill in the air there was hardly a breeze. A colony of seagulls squawked in the distance.
A BOWL OF PERFECTION
I decided to end my day of exploring Motomachi with dinner at the Hakodate Beer Hall, a local institution. Upon entering one of the red brick warehouses, I found myself in a German bierhalle with waitresses dressed in beermaid’s outfits hurriedly carrying mugs of beer to customers. In spite of the European environment, there was quite a lengthy list of local seafood dishes to choose from, including ika somen and chirashidon, both of which I downed with a mug of Sapporo Classic.
With almost 300 stalls selling a variety of fresh seafood and produce, the Hakodate morning market was an overwhelming multisensory experience. Bright orange crabs in varying sizes of big, bigger, biggest filled up large crates while bins of spinous sea urchin threatened to poke careless pedestrians rushing about. The smell of dried squid filled the air with every turn of the head, while some shopkeeper grilled scallops as big as my open palm in a corner.
Ika somen is raw squid cut up into fine strips, almost resembling noodles (somen). With much anticipation, I dipped several strips into the soy sauce and ginger, and put them in my mouth. The fresh sweetness of the raw squid mingled with the salty-ginger taste. Surely these were caught by the same fishing boats I spied just across the port. Did this satisfy my ever-growing craving for Hokkaido seafood? Definitely not, as I grew even more determined to go to my final stop in my Hakodate adventure: the famous Hakodate morning market.
HAKODATE
Excited to be there early, I woke up before my alarm even went off. My hotel was just a few paces away from the Hakodate Morning Market so I quickly found myself in the middle of the bustling market just as the early morning’s catch was coming in
However my all-important destination was Uni Murakami (uni-murakami.com), a tiny restaurant at the end of the market famous for serving the best uni don – the most succulent and creamiest sea urchin meat atop a steaming bowl of rice. Luckily, I got there early enough before any queue started forming. As I finished every morsel of rice in my uni don, I looked back on my trip following Hijikata’s footsteps as he tried to protect his masters, the Tokugawa shogunate. He fought a tough battle, and whether or not he knew for sure what the outcome might be, he nevertheless stayed steadfast. His relentless determination and enduring spirit to live up to his promise to live just as nobly as a samurai should, truly made him Hakodate’s last authentic warrior.
WATCH OUT FOR THESE 3 OTHER LANDMARKS IN MOTOMACHI The Old British Consulate (hakodate-kankou.com) is a token of Hakodate’s past commerce activities. Now, it houses an exhibit of the onceactive office filled with British-inspired furniture and interiors. A piece of China in Japan, the Chinese Memorial Hall used to be a purposeful place for gatherings, receptions and other events for Chinese merchants who once traded in Hakodate. Completed in 1910, the materials used and even its manpower were all imported from China.
ADDITIONAL TEXT BY PAULEEN GENERAL.
The Hakodate Public Hall is a magnificent symmetry of culture. From the outside, this two-storey building looks heavily-influenced by Western style highlighted by the iconic yellow window frames. However, from the inside, touches of local craftsmanship and Japanese ingenuity are found in some of its spacious areas.
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NEED TO KNOW Hakodate, located at the southernmost point of Hokkaido, is also its third largest city after Sapporo and Asahikawa. It was one of the three international ports opened in Japan in the 19th century, which made it one of the first few Japanese cities to have trade relations with the outside world. Traces of Western influences have remained throughout Hakodate, most of which can be seen in government buildings and some preserved homes with a fusion of both Western and Japanese architecture and design. This coastal city is popularly known for seafood such as squid, sea urchin, and crabs.
HOW TO GET THERE Japan Airlines, All Nippon Airways, and Philippine Airlines are some of the airlines that fly to Tokyo via Haneda or Narita airports. From there, take a 90-minute domestic flight to Hakodate Airport. Alternatively, visitors can take a train ride from Tokyo to Hakodate via the Hokkaido Shinkansen service, making the region and its nearby towns more accessible for tourists. Kikonai station, the first stop in Hokkaido, is a quaint yet serene town where guests can try juicy Hakodate beef.
WHEN TO GO Hakodate is lovely to visit all year round, particularly to see the famed Mt. Hakodate night view. However, the best time to go is from April through September when the climate is warmer.
WHERE TO STAY FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON HAKODATE Formerly the Loisir Hotel Hakodate, this ideally located Western-style hotel is right across the JR Hakodate Station and the Daimon Yokocho, the best place to try Hakodate’s famous seafood donburi bowls. Behind it is the well-known Hakodate Morning Market that comes alive as early as daybreak. Don’t miss Shabu Shabu Kirari for a taste of premium Hokkaido beef. premierhotel-group.com/hakodate LA JOLIE MOTOMACHI BY WBF This chic and stylish boutique hotel conveniently located in the Motomachi District boasts of 29 designer rooms that reflect the same charming Western-Japanese sensibilities of Hakodate. Egyptian cotton beddings and antique décor paired with modern comforts ensure a comfortingly homey yet pampered stay for guests. A tram stop is also just a minute’s walk away. hotelwbf.com/lj-motomachi
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE WAKAMATSU HOT SPRING RESORT Expect the highest level of Japanese service in a ryokan as rich in history as this. From its charming façade to its subdued interiors, its 24 rooms – each with its own view of the Tsugaru Straits – have been carefully designed to create the most tranquil environment for guests. wakamatsuryokan.com/hakodate YUNOKAWA PRINCE HOTEL NAGISATEI This ryokan-style accommodation facing Tsugaru Strait is best for travelers seeking a change of scenery and an alternative option in Hakodate. Experience an authentic tatami room with an open-air bath and enjoy a Japanese buffet with an open kitchen that serves freshly-made tempura. nagisatei.info BOUROU NOGUCHI HAKODATE With the highest open-air bath in Yunokawa, this luxury ryokan provides an unmatched breathtaking view of the city, Mt. Hakodate, and Tsugaru Strait. Some rooms have private hot spring baths with a panoramic view. The spring waters here are made up of sodium calcium and chloride that are good for guests suffering from joint pain, rheumatism, and fatigue. A Japanese garden, library, and billiard room provide guests with entertainment and leisure options. bourou-hakodate.com
WHERE TO EAT Uni Murakami (uni-murakami.com), a small restaurant at the end of the Hakodate Morning Market lane, serves the best sea urchin rice bowl dishes. Diners can also choose a combination uni don with other seafood such as scallops or salmon roe, for variety. Make sure to come early or make reservations, as seats are limited, and to avoid a long wait. Daimon Yokocho For the best donburi selection, head to Donburi Yokocho Market (donburiyokocho.com), just a minute’s walk from the JR Hakodate Station. Over 20 restaurants offer various kinds of donburi (rice toppings) using only the freshest seafood such as squid, sea urchin, salmon, scallop, shrimp, and more. This is sushi heaven at its finest that no seafood lover should miss. Pastry Snaffles (snaffles.jp) makes the lightest, fluffiest “catch cakes,” the Snaffles’ version of a cheesecake made of Hokkaido milk, cream cheese, and eggs. Make sure to bring home some of these treats in its original cheese or chocolate flavors, along with cheese tarts or “snow ball” pastries.
Take a break from seafood with a traditional Japanese shabu shabu at Shabu Shabu Kirari at the Four Points by Sheraton Hakodate. Generous servings of premium Hokkaido beef and seasonal vegetables cooked at your table in a flavorful broth make this a must-try experience in Hakodate.
WHAT TO DO GO ON A DAY TRIP WITH NATURE. Get closer to Mother Nature at Onuma Park (onumakouen.com), just 30 minutes away north of Hakodate. The park at the foot of Mt. Komagatake has two lakes where you can take boat tours or rent a bike to explore the various lakes and small islands. Other activities to do at Onuma Park are horseback riding, canoeing, and snowshoeing in winter. GET TO KNOW A YOKOZUNA. Visit the Chiyonoyama & Chiyonofuji Memorial Hall (town.fukushima.hokkaido.jp) at Fukushima Town, a sumo wrestling museum dedicated to two of Hokkaido’s renowned yokozuna (highest ranked sumo wrestling champions). The museum chronicles their lives and careers, and showcases their awards and accolades. A dojo at the back of the museum is sometimes open for public viewing, and if you’re lucky, you might even catch some young sumo wrestlers training or competing there around August. n
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