CMYK ➛
SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2011
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THE TIMES LEADER
BURGUNDY
Continental has good connections from Wilkes-Barre/ Scranton International through Newark and then direct to Paris. A mid-week economy roundtrip in September was just under $1,000 recently, slightly less than flying from Newark. From Paris, you can reach Dijon, the acknowledged “capital” of Burgundy, in less than three hours by car, almost entirely on superhighways. Taking the scenic route could add hours – and isn’t really that scenic because it’s consistently flattish farm country. You can play around with routes at www.viamichelin.com Or you can take the train from Paris to Dijon and rent a car at the train station. If you ride the high-speed TGV the trip will take just more than an
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hour and a half. Ticket buying can be tricky; TGV tickets are available only 60 days in advance. The easiest way for Americans to buy is at www.raileurope.com, an easy-to-navigate English language site. But you’ll pay a higher price. The adventurous, especially with some understanding of the French language, are better served at www.voyagessncf.com. You’ll want to notify your credit-card company before attempting to book, and if asked if you are in the United States fib a little and say no, the U.K. Driving around Burgundy is easy, and at the Dijon train station you can rent from a variety of companies, including U.S. stalwarts Hertz and Avis. Don’t forget to bring or rent a GPS for carefree wandering.
CHARLOTTE BARTIZEK PHOTOS/FOR THE TIMES LEADER
The local shop in Puligny-Montrachet serves a wide selection of regional wines.
ONLINE RESOURCES
A British couple has converted a former winemaker’s property into a chambre d’hote, Domaine des Anges, in the village of Puligny-Montrachet in the Burgundy region of France.
few destinations in mind: the picturesque Canal du Centre, which we had stumbled upon during an earlier trip; the village of SaintRomain; and Chateau de La Rochepot, a restored castle constructed around a 12th-century stone chapel that survived a fire that destroyed a previous structure. The castle’s glazed tile roof shares the colorful pattern found on the Hospices de Beaune and numerous church steeples in the region. Inside is a rarer style statement, a bedroom decorated entirely with Asian furnishings given by the last empress of China to the castle owner, Sadi Carnot, who later became president of the French Republic. Tours narrated in English take visitors through other rooms that illustrate castle life, which, at least if you were in the ruling family, was more comfortable than you might imagine in the late Middle Ages. Saint-Romain is even smaller than Puligny-Montrachet, but judging by the signboard on the way into town it seems equal in
winemaking prowess. It has another attribute making a visit worthwhile, Les Roches, a wonderful restaurant and eight-room hotel run by Séverine and Guillaume Crotet. Lunch here is a primer in well-crafted country French cuisine like oeufs en meurette (poached eggs in a red wine sauce), accompanied if you’d like by a selection from the extensive list of wines from the Côte d’Or (golden slope), as this part of Burgundy is known. As for the canal, we never got around to looking for it, though I’ve been able to mark on Google Earth a pretty lock where we crossed. Perhaps we’ll find it next
French tourism is highly developed (it is the most-visited nation on Earth), and most websites have English versions. For those that don’t, translation programs will give you enough information to figure out the basics, as well as some chuckles when they slip up. Domaine des Anges: www.domainedesangespuligny.com. Rooms from 75-125 euros, dinner 35 euros p.p. plus wine. General lodging and dining throughout Burgundy: www.burgundyeye.com Beaune: www.beaune-tourism.com Hospices de Beaune, www.hospices-de-beaune.com Puligny-Montrachet wines: www.caveau-puligny.com, www.maison-olivierleflaive.fr More for wine lovers: www.roadof-the-fine-burgundy-wines.com Les Roches hotel and restaurant: www.les-roches.fr La Rochepot: www.larochepot.com
time. Will children and teenagers be bored by all this history, culture and good taste? Perhaps, and Burgundy may not be the best place for a family vacation. But for couples, wine connoisseurs and those seeking relaxation and French country comfort this region is hard to beat.
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tasting rooms or guided tours. For that, go to Chateau de Pommard, just up the road. Meursault and other nearby villages boast their own fine sleeping and eating places. Those looking for more variety can head just seven miles northward to Beaune, a beautiful and historic town of about 20,000 that is known as the center of the Burgundy wine trade. Go on a Saturday morning, and you’ll be able to browse one of the region’s finest markets. That’s where we bought, in addition to gifts of spices and preserves to bring home, a nice chunk of Morbier cheese to share with John Nicholls, a fromage aficionado. Beaune and its environs have much more to offer than wine and cheese, including the beautiful 15th-century hospital, Notre Dame basilica and its collection of 15th-century tapestries, the Beaux Arts museum, numerous chateaus in the surrounding area and, if the tourism brochure is to be believed, more than 100 restaurants, many with tables set beside the cobblestone streets. Those seeking an even more urban adventure have only to go about 20 miles northeast to Dijon, hometown of Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, the namesake mustard and Michelin-starred restaurants. After our morning in the “big city” of Beaune we were ready to head for the hills to get a look at the less-populated side of Burgundy. Here’s where GPS earns its stripes; we brought ours from home, equipped with a Europe memory card purchased on eBay. That allowed us to drive blithely into the countryside without fear of getting lost. Well, not exactly, but once lost it’s easy to be found by simply telling the chatty device to take you to your destination. I still don’t know exactly where we were half the time, but we never missed cocktail hour back at Domaine des Anges. (Tea is served the hour before.) We knew our ride off the beaten path accomplished its purpose when we happened upon a simple but well-tended roadside memorial to those who served France in war. First installed to honor World War I casualties, plaques bearing the names of those who died fighting in World War II were later added. The site, on a high hillside overlooking the now-peaceful valley, seemed timelessly appropriate. The next day we headed south, sometimes driving on narrow lanes that were built for machinery used to tend the vines. Other times of the year we would have had the road to ourselves, but as it was the beginning of harvest we navigated around vehicles pulled haphazardly to the side where they disgorged grape pickers, many of them migrants from Eastern Europe. While meandering, we had a
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