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ISSUE #5
YOUR MAGAZINE FOR THE NEW ERA OF WINE DRINKING
THE OTHER SIDE CAFÉ
RAW FOOD, ORGANIC WINE AND LOUD MUSIC, OH MY!
ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC & SUSTAINABLY FARMED WINES
RECS:
OVER 50 WINES WE URGE YOU TO RUN OUT AND TRY
SAKE:
IF YOU DON’T LIKE IT YOU’VE ONLY HAD THE BAD STUFF
SEPTEMBER SALE (Until October 12th)
20% OFF SIX BOTTLES OR MORE! Including: 2004 Adanti Nispero Rosso
Reg 12.99
Sale 10.39
2001 Adanti Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 Cesconi Moratel
33.99 14.50
27.19 11.60
2004 Cascina Morassino Nebbiolo 2004 Cascina Morassino Barbaresco 2006 Gatti Brachetto Piemonte 375ml
17.99 33.95 13.50
14.39 27.16 10.80
2005 Mattei Barbera 11.50 2005 Valle Isarco Pinot Nero Blauburgunder 18.50
9.20 14.80
2006 Cantina Gries Pinot Grigio 2005 Gatti Moscato 2005 Gatti Moscato 375ml Half Btl 2005 Sirch Tocai Friulano 2005 Valle Isarco Kerner
10.99 14.75 8.99 21.99 17.99
8.79 11.80 7.19 17.59 14.39
2003 Domaine Des Anes L’enclos Corbieres 17.95 2005 Les Grandes Vignes Côtes du Rhône 10.99
14.36 8.79
Big wood aging and a bargain wine at this price
Deeply colored, rich & intense wine designed to age well.
THINK YOU KNOW THE BEST SPOTS FOR WINE IN THE CITY? Then check out what’s
”HOT ON YELP” this week...
Dalia Bistro Ten Tables Meritage Restaurant Noir Les Zygomates
w w w. y e l p . c o m Real People. Real Reviews™
It has aromas of wild berry and mint leading into an ultra smooth core of juicy fruit. A world class better buy wine.
This is a blend of Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco & barrel fermented Chardonnay that makes a wine of great complexity.
The 2005 Kerner is intense & aromatic on the nose; dry, full bodied, spicy with a tinge of nutmeg aroma.
Try our SECOND GLASS Recommened Organic and Biodynamic Wines
4 Food for
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
I decided to devote an entire issue to organic, biodynamic and sustainably farmed wine because my friends and family members kept asking me questions about it. I knew very little about this particular style of wine making so I enlisted the help of Chris and we set out to learn everything we could. My exploration took me to Proprietor and Manager of The OtherSide Café, Henry Patterson. Over a bottle of Piero Gatti Moscato Henry explained to me his relationship with organics and biodynamic wine. After running half a dozen Italian restaurants in Boston, pioneering one of the first extensive wine-by-the-glass programs in the city and working numerous harvests at vineyards in Italy and France, Henry was getting burnt out on wine. It was a recent reintroduction to biodynamic wine that perked his interest to the point of initiating an all-natural wine list at The OtherSide Café. Henry explained his passion for organics and how he believes biodynamic wines project the terroir (roughly translated to region) of the winery so well. His passion was inspirational and although Chris was writing the article on biodynamics I felt a need to learn even more. However, I had my own assignment to complete. Nancy Cushman from O Ya, a new, high end Japanese restaurant near South Station was kind enough to meet with me and discuss sake. Nancy, along with being an owner, was also the Sake Sommelier for the restaurant. After a short introduction to the brewing process and the different grades, we started tasting. It was an epiphany. I tasted bright melon, peaches, mushrooms and even yogurt flavors. After drinking bad sake for so many years, I now understood why people love this beverage. Having been turned on to a completely new style of wine, for the second time in a week, I was set on exploring it as much as possible. I knew I would need to recruit help for this task so I immediately bought two bottles of the Chikurin Hou Hou Shu Sparkling Sake ($8.99 for 187ml). Now, I know this isn’t considered “serious” sake by connoisseurs but the delicious fruit flavors will convince ANYONE they need to drink more sake. On back-to-back nights I drank a bottle each with my girlfriend (and PR Consultant) and Tasting Director, the two people I spend the most time with. Both parties were sold immediately and we quickly moved onto the third stage of my master plan: try as many different kinds of sake as humanly possible.
ABOUT THE COVER Marketing guy Bill Hallowell (our Tasting Director’s uncle) has few complaints with his emerging career as gentleman farmer. Savoring a hearty Pinot in his airconditioned cab, he guides a bright orange Kubota tractor, methodically haying the fields of his Vermont farm. Try as it might, the 97-degree midday sun beats down without effect. Vermont, freshly cut hay, a nice wine, Statesboro Blues blasting away...perfect!
Sealing the Deal
Wine to woo that special someone
Wine Perversions
Thought A Recipe for Summer Pasta with Braised Sausage
PASO ROBLES
7
Dear Bob,
We STILL Want You!
Eggs in My Wine?
Wait, You’re Kidding, Right?
While Chris went right for the source and attended a sake seminar, my girlfriend and I bounced around from restaurant to restaurant. Numerous visits to Pho Republique, in the South End, proved to be very fruitful. We tasted the classic “Bride of the Fox” and on another visit, the unfiltered and unusually high in alcohol Honjozo Nigori Nagargawa. However, the most delicious sake experience occurred at the brand new Savant Project in Mission Hill. The only dessert currently on the menu is a cup full of berries, soaked in sake with a dollop of cream on the top. This is possibly the most delicious dessert in the entire city of Boston, which our waiter also informed us, has enough alcohol to require a photo ID. I haven’t been able to dive as deep as I want into sake or biodynamic wine for that matter, but it’s only been a month. I’m sure as Nancy and Henry can attest, there is a lifetime of exploring. Luckily, I can supply the sake and Chris can supply the biodynamic wine and between dueling bouts of Guitar Hero we can teach each other a thing or two. This is what I love about wine and this is why I started The Second Glass. It only takes one person to introduce you to a new style or kind of wine. Once you’re hooked, you become the ambassador and it’s your job to pass the passion on to your friends. What goes around comes around, so make sure there’s some tasty vino coming your way.
By TYLER BALLIET tyler@thesecondglass.com
Tyler Balliet Chris Hallowell Ari Friedland Emily Steers
Jessie Pray Amy Ullman James Laurenti Michael Corbett
Editor-in-Chief, Publisher tyler@thesecondglass.com Tasting Director chris@thesecondglass.com Lord Photography, Editor ari@thesecondglass.com Editor, Copy Editor emily@thesecondglass.com Staff Writers jessie@thesecondglass.com amy@thesecondglass.com james@thesecondglass.com mike@thesecondglass.com
Jody Jordan Ellen Wilson
Contributors
Morgan First
Marketing, PR Consultant
Le Twan Baxter
Photo by our very own Lord Photography; Ari Friedland
5
Lillet: The Aperitif from Bordeaux
VirtualTastings.com
Web Master Partners
FOUR ECO FRIENDLY WINES
11
9
Scenario:
The Dinner Party The Get Together The Rager Learn how to Master ANY Event You are Intited to
12日本酒 13 ( s a k e )
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Interview:
We Sit Down With Max Toste from Deep Ellum, the Newest Bar in Allston Rock City
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THE
OTHER SIDE CAFE
Feature:
The Low Down on Organic, Biodynamic and Sustainably Farmed Wines.
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OVER 50 WINES WE RECOMMEND YOU BUY TODAY
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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THE DEAL: q SEALING WINES TO WOO THE ONE YOU LOVE “VINO VIAGRA” Men like big boobs, fireworks, and monster truck rallies. So, ladies, give him something to watch. Open a bottle of wine in a way that will turn him into putty in your hands. First, get a red. Red is sexy. I recommend the 2005 Cortijo III Rioja. Plummy with black cherry, prune, and graham cracker flavors, it proves the perfect companion to spicy food...or just your spicy lover. Second, make sure the top foil is slightly loose. When you’re finally settled and he reaches for the bottle, brush off his fingers and say (channeling Sophia Loren) “No, baby, let me take care of you.” Then run your hands up the bottle, to the neck, and in one swift, deft, movement whip the foil off using only your hands. Keep your eyes focused on his while you twist the corkscrew into the cork, and slowly pull it out until the very end when you yank, creating a satisfyingly lusty pop (generally a no-no in wine opening, in the privacy of your own home, we’ll allow it). Ok, it may not be fireworks, but when maneuvered correctly, this move will have your man thinking you are Angelina Jolie, Catherine Zeta-Jones, and Brigette Bardot all rolled into one delicious wine-supplying package.
by Jessie Pray
Fresh Thinking • Healthy Eating
Have a Bit Too Much Wine Last Night? A fresh and healthy pita sandwich is the perfect thing to get you back on your feet.
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“PANTY REMOVER” Women like confidence. I mean, I don’t really know, but that’s what I hear on TV. It seems to work out really well for the guys on the cast of ‘The Bold and the Beautiful.’ That’s besides the point, if you want a bottle that gives out an “I’m totally confident and it’s time to get down to business, that’s why I’m wearing business socks” vibe, the Beckman Vineyards ‘Cuvee le Bec’ is the bottle for you. After pouring the ‘Cuvee le Bec’ at a tasting, I heard a girl say “MMM…That is dangerous!” If that’s not a sound endorsement, I don’t know what is. This buxom bottle brings aromas of dry cedar, herbs, earth, and almost Zinfandel-like vanillin sweetness to the table. Aside from being a really interesting and a well structured wine, this Rhone style blend from California has relentlessly smooth cherry fruit, flirty tannins, the absolutely sensual creaminess of a milk chocolate truffle, and warming alcohol that is sure to inspire bad decisions
by Chris Hallowell
WINE PERVERSIONS:
q LILLET
By Tyler Balliet
Lillet is an apéritif wine from the Bordeaux region of France with a very subtle yet distinctive taste. “It almost has a sherry flavor to it,” explain John Stepanski, a manager and buyer for Bauer Wine and Spirits. Lillet comes in red and white (Lillet Blanc or Rouge) and is mainly a cuvee, or blend, of young and mature wine. Towards the end of the process, the cuvee is combined with an aromatic liqueur made from sweet and bitter oranges, quinine, and other essential herbs. Lillet has been made since the Lillet brothers began their distillery in 1872. The recipe stayed the same for over a century but was modernized in 1986, when the apéritif became lighter, fruitier and less bitter in order to keep up with the times. This aperitif can be served on the rocks with a twist of lemon or orange, or it can be used in a martini in the place of vermouth. Stepanski suggests a dash of Angostura Bitters as, “it helps to perk up the herbal flavors.” Even though Lillet got a shout out in the newest James Bond franchise Casino Royal via the Kina Lillet Martini, Bond dubs the “Vesper,” it is still a relatively unheard of drink. Most bars have a bottle on hand but, “in my experience [bartenders] have no idea what it is,” Stepanski explains. To sample this fine French beverage head to your local spirit shop or visit Petit Robert in the South End or Kenmore Square. There, they proudly serve a generous pour of Lillet in a nice, large, round glass perfect for sipping.
w w w. b o s t o n p i t a p i t . c o m
q
SUMMER TOMATO PASTA WITH SAUSAGES BRAISED IN WINE
by Ellen Wilson
INGREDIENTS: 1 lb Fettuccine 4 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic 8 – 10 healthy, ripe, fresh tomato’s, really any variety or color will do. (cherry, yellow, plum, whatever is available or your favorite) slice and chop, squeeze out excess juice 2 cans artichoke hearts, drain, slice and chop 1 16 oz can chick peas or garbanzo beans drained
10 to 12 large fresh basil leaves 6 Sweet Italian Sausages 2 Cups water 1 Cup Sauvignon Blanc Sea Salt Freshly Ground Pepper Grated Pecorino Romano cheese
DIRECTIONS: Heat two tablespoons olive oil in a fry pan. Prick holes in the sausage with a fork and brown in the oil. When they are browned on all sides, pour the water and the wine in pan, and cook over medium heat until all liquid just about disappears. Do not let your pan go dry or you will burn the sausages. This will take about ½ hour to 45 mins, which leaves plenty of time for you and your guest to have a before dinner drink.
Photo by E. Wilson
Ellen Wilson is writing a cookbook, tentatively titled, “Wine is Food,” that uses wine as a central cooking ingredient in every recipe. Ellen also works for Heritage Link Brands Importers, a company that distributes African Wine.
Next bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. When the water is ready, cook the pasta until al dente. While pasta is cooking, heat the remaining olive oil in a separate pan and add the garlic. Sauté for 1-2 minutes, until aromatic,
add the beans, artichokes, and the tomatoes, and mix thoroughly. Add ¼ cup Seven Sisters Sauvignon Blanc, stir again, tear basil leaves and add to the sauce. Cook over low heat for about 5 minutes Strain Pasta, and place back in the hot pot you just cooked it in. Add ½ cup sauce , and stir , being sure to coat all of the pasta. This way your pasta will absorb the taste of your sauce as it finishes “cooking” Put the pasta and the sausage on the plate, pour sauce over, garnish with Basil leaves, and grated cheese. ENJOY
BETTER KNOW A REGION q PASO ROBLES, CA
By Michael Corbett
Paso what? Paso where?? Don’t let the PA S O R O B L E S AVA liquor stores fool you; there is more to the PASO ROBLES California wine scene S A than the mountains N TA L U and valleys surroundC IA P A M C ing Napa and Sonoma. O IF U IC N TA Originally “El Paso O C IN E S A N de Robles”, or “The Pass of The Oaks,” the town of Paso Robles is located halfway between San Francisco and Syrah, Voignier, and Roussanne grapes. Bold Los Angeles. The wine region is one of the Zins, classy Cabs, AND Rhône wines…what largest in California, covering over 600,000 more can you ask for? Well, the most exiting acres; 26,000 of which are planted vineyards. Paso Robles fact is that, due to lower land Zinfandel, the black pepper, raspberry jam prices, many quality wines can be found at of a grape, first put this region on the map. bargain prices compared to anything north of Today, Cabernet Sauvignon is most popular San Francisco. So for the next dinner party at 38% of vineyard plantings. The region is pick up a bottle of Paso wine, impress your chock full ‘o’ different micro-climates that friends with some Paso facts, and best of all make it a perfect place for producing vibrant – Save a few bucks! and variant Cabernet blends. In the last ten years, Paso Robles has been found to have similar soil and climate profiles to those of Vineyards to Check Out: the Rhône region of France. As a result, Paso Four Vines, Opolo, Liberty School, Robles has the largest California plantings of
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THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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THEY MAKE WINE THERE?
WHAT’S UP WITH:
u FINING
By Michael Corbett
Trick of the Trade: Eggs in Wine?
Throughout the winemaking process, unfinished wines end up with a lot of junk floating about, such as dead yeast cells and grape particles. Some of this “junk” can be removed by filtration or settling. However, un-finished wines also contain unstable proteins in the solution that cannot be filtered and over time will form a haze. And honestly, who likes hazy wine? To prevent hefeweizen-like wines, many wineries use the age old process of fining. Not getting into to much scientific jibberjabber, if another protein is added to the
Hey P arker ,
wine it will grab the unstable proteins and settle them to the bottom of the tank. And one of the most common fining agents for boutique red wines is…egg whites! If that makes you a bit squeamish, just be happy that since 1987 the use of ox blood as a fining agent has been outlawed in Europe. Fining with egg whites not only removes these pesky proteins but is also known to remove harsh tannins producing a silkier wine. So, the next time you have a glass of expensive red, consider complimenting it with bacon and wheat toast.
I mu s email t have a ccide in m that n must y spam f tally pu becau o t yo h lder a v e s u from e I hav been wh . I me r an, at h you y en’t appen from et. gotte e I t Spect hose sch expecte n anyth d, d not ing oolgi ator respo r to he but n surel ls over ar still ded by a y t Wi you now. s n t e w a ould nd (regu have latio s. You, Anyways, two me, s n si my o wi ffer o z Welco ll enter e-16 oz me Solo cups ), a , on me to ly nd the T hunde one will wine… -Chri r lea dome, s Bob. ve. Chris Tasti Hallowel l n The S g Direct or econd chris @thes Glass econd glass .com
q
ETHIOPIA By James Laurenti
You might be surprised to hear Ethiopia has a wine industry. However, it geographically makes sense. The country is fairly mountainous, which keeps the temperatures cool (about 50-70˚F in most areas), and it has a large valley running down the middle. Wineries make their home on the edges of this valley in areas like Guder, Nura-Era, and Zewai because the mountains protect the vines from the elements. This isn't to say Ethiopian winemakers are leading a sweet life. Growers in Ethiopia have to be constantly wary of severe, life-threatening droughts— not to mention the myriad of complications that arise from the country's abject poverty. Still, they don't allow these set-backs to prevent them from making some unique and respectable wines.
q
SAUDI ARABIA
SUDAN
GULF OF ADEN
ETHIOPIA SUDAN
SOMALIA KENYA
ETHIOPIAN WINES IN BOSTON:
While you might not find these wines in your local wine shop, you can typically find them in Ethiopian restaurants. I highly recommend you check out Addis Red Sea on Tremont Street. Don't wuss out and order your usual Chardonnay. Instead, try Dukam and Gouder (dry reds), Axumit (a sweet red), and even Tej, the country's flagship honey-based wine.
BORDEAUX FUTURES:
YOU THOUGHT THEY WERE UNAFFORDABLE BEFORE
By Tyler Balliet
First Growth Bordeaux have forever been the crème de la crème of fine wine. Collectors hoard the good vintages and store them deep in their cellars for decades. These wines can take your breath away but so can the prices. Recently they have been expensive, but still obtainable. However, due to a few exceptional vintages and over-hype, the only way us common-folk will ever get our hands on these wines is by way of the Massachusetts State Lottery.
to be the “finest” in Bordeaux). Whatever. An Earth shattering year deserves absolutely outrageous prices. However, the 2006 vintage prices haven’t changed much. It was still a Great wine doesn’t go directly from oak good year, but it was by no means a “vintage barrels, to bottles, to the customer. The winery of the century.” Essentially, what was once usually ages the bottles in their cellar for a available in the “eat Mac and Cheese for a few years. Some of the 2005 vintages won’t month” price bracket is now in the “maybe if be released to the public until as late as 2009. you sell your car… maybe” price range. Given Because of the gap in time, the wineries sell the basic law of supply and demand it’s only ‘futures,’ or a promise to deliver the wine when a matter of time before these wines reach the it is finally released. These prices are usually a “how much are you willing to pay” level. The moral of this story is that you should buy your bit lower than the release price. back vintage Bordeaux now, because the stuff Our problem begins with the 2005 vintage that’s coming our way is far out of any sane in Bordeaux, which was deemed “a vintage of person’s price range. the century,” by winemakers and critics alike. Basically, the weather was so perfect that you or I could have made a good wine. Because Futures are available at Zachy’s and Acker of this, the future prices for 2005 were around Merrall & Condit starting at the price of your $700 a bottle for the First Growths (five first-born child. wineries designated by the French government
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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ANNOUNCING OUR FIRST ANNUAL WINE-CELLAR CLEARING & NEW MENU CELEBRATION
Help Ivy clear out the old and ring in the new at our Wine Cellar Clearing event Unveiling new $26 wine selections by THE SECOND GLASS, along with a new menu for the fall season. Inquire for invitation
Love wine but hate the pretense?
over 60 bottles for $26 ea
{ Eco-Friendly Four
{
Maybe its because of my mom’s vegetarianism, or because my roommates are healthnuts, or even that I’ve dated one too many hippie chicks from Western Massachusetts. Regardless of the influence, somehow eco-friendly groceries have infiltrated my house. I shouldn’t act so surprised considering the success of stores like Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods. In addition, eco-friendly wine has started to garner interest. Once considered by many wine snobs as gimmicky, spoiled-grape sludge, organic wine has started to earn some respect. Don’t be surprised if you soon find an entire section devoted to it in your local wine store. Here are four examples of such wines made with four different techniques:
Wines By James Laurenti
Lolonis Ladybug Red
(sustainable farming)
Sustainable farming is what it sounds like. The winery farms in a way that doesn’t leave the land in worse shape than when they started. Lolonis, a historical winery in Mendocino County, California is one of the oldest advocates of this type of farming. The key to their operation? Look no further than the wine’s label. They use a LOT of ladybugs. Roughly five million (no exaggeration) and these suckers do all the pest killing the winery needs, making chemical sprays unnecessary. Because of their careful maintenance of the land, Lolonis boasts a huge collection of old vines capable of producing awesomely concentrated fruit—including the Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carignane grapes used in this bottling. With plush blackberry fruit and nutmeg spice, Lolonis’ Ladybug Red is delicious and affordable (about $15). But here’s a question is for potential male buyers: are you comfortable enough in your masculinity to grab a bottle of wine with cutesy, little ladybugs on the label?
Patrick Lesec Rubis Côtes du Rhône (no sulfites added)
Usually even organic wineries that grow their own grapes add sulfites to the wine as a preservative. It prevents the wine from oxidizing (turning to vinegar) and from developing fetid aromas (think: donkey dookie). However, some gutsy people like Patrick Lesec choose to leave them out or add as little as possible. But if you’re as bad-ass as Lesec, the results can be pretty damn solid. The Rubis Côtes du Rhône (a Syrah/Grenache blend) offers a generous nose of earth with a bit of smoke and licorice, but it fills your mouth with gobs of cherry fruit. Still, the best part about this wine is that certain flavors feel more exaggerated in different bottlings. Without preservatives, it’s impossible to make sure that every bottle always tastes identical because the wine is so delicate. Why do I think this is awesome? I think a friend of mine said it best when after sipping a similar wine he triumphantly declared, “This isn’t some Coca-Cola bullshit; this is the real deal!”
}
Domaine des Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon Villages (biodynamic farming)
The basic idea of biodynamic farming (developed by a philosopher, not a farmer) involves thinking of the soil as a living organism and viewing the vineyard in the context of the universe. This means using no pesticides or chemical fertilizers and relying on the moon as an indicator on when to plant. Instead of chemicals, a series of natural mixtures are prepared and administered to fertilize the soil or keep pests away. Mixtures like a cow horn filled with manure, which has been buried for a year. Sound kooky? Stay with me here. Even though it sounds like these guys have smoked one too many left-handed cigarettes, their wines rarely disappoint. Try Lafon’s Mâcon Villages, a Chardonnay from the southern part of Burgundy, France. At about $20, it’s a great value white Burgundy. Plus with its subtly smoky apple character it makes a great alternative to oakier Californian Chardonnays.
Frey Cabernet Sauvignon (suitable for vegans)
If you’re vegan and think ignorance is bliss, this is your chance to stop reading. Still with me? I’m really, really sorry but most wine isn’t veganfriendly. Typically, before a wine is bottled, egg white or gelatin is added in a process called “fining” to help remove tiny particles suspended in the wine. A few wine producers simply skip this step, but others have found an alternative solution. A vegan-friendly clay compound called bentonite can serve as a suitable substitute. Unfortunately, there’s rarely an easy way to tell if a wine is vegan just by looking at the bottle. (For some reason, wineries aren’t keen on putting “made with boiled cow bones” on their label). But, hey, for starters, check out http://vegans.frommars.org/wine for a sizeable list of available vegan wines at all price ranges. Frey Cabernet, perhaps the world’s most eco-friendly wine, makes an appearance on this list. Not only is it vegan, but the grapes are biodynamically farmed AND the winery doesn’t add any sulfites. How’s it taste? Well, let’s just say that thankfully there are another 426 wines on that website.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
}
9
u WINE TASTING IN ARIZONA By Luke Bauer Lets just start this off with a few confessions. First confession: I don’t know anything about wine. I love to drink wine, but talking about it exceeds my abilities rather quickly.
Second confession: Sometimes, when I talk about wine, I lie, pretend that I know what I’m talking about, then sneakily use beer terminology. I used to be the brewmaster at a small brew pub. I can talk about beer.
The truly wonderful part about the second confession is that for all the hype that wine and wine tasting gets these days, most people still have no idea what they’re talking about. So when I use beer terminology, people still nod at me and think I know what I’m talking about.
would be several days before I finally had the pleasure.
My tasting companion and I, after several days in the car, finally turned onto Page Springs Road, at around noon. It was a dry, dusty road; twisting and turning up and down The reason that I feel comfortable deceiving the hilly country, covered in low mesquite my fellow vino-philes, if I can even use that scrub A quiet pocket of greenery enclosed the term, from time to time, is that wine has simple, unassuming white building housing the developed a cultural perception of snootiness operations of the business. that enough people conform to to make it sort But the tasting room was great. A few small of true. Theoretically speaking, people that go tables, topped in highly polished slabs of wine tasting are wealthy, well dressed, and alligator juniper peppered the tile floor in front cruising around Napa in their vintage MG of a great and beautiful counter made from what convertibles, spitting out perfectly good booze looked a whole juniper tree, cut down, sliced in after swishing and making some noises about half and polished to a high sheen, covered in “oak tannins” or some such nonsense. bottles of wine. But there are, of course, many of us who “You look like you’re seeking Caduceus.” love wine and are not, presently, well off Well, I guess she pegged us right. Carol was enough to own vintage MG convertibles (or her name, and she obviously knew much more spit out perfectly good booze). about wine that I did. I faked it well, I think, For the non- jet set crowd, please enjoy the commenting vaguely about fruit undertones following account of my Arizona wine search. and rhubarb and things of that nature through our four wine tasting flight, but I’m pretty sure Arizona? that she saw through me. The idea of traveling around the country, Of course, we couldn’t actually taste the or the world, from attractive rural location to attractive rural location; drinking high quality, Tool stuff there. We had to buy a bottle. We hand crafted booze at every stop, is obviously took our bottle and left, finally opening it a few one that I appreciate. Now, Arizona? Well, yes. days later in Los Angeles. After a moment of breathing time, during which we washed the Arizona actually does produce wine. only two available wine glasses in the pop diva When the nation’s fixation with wine truly starlet’s apartment we found ourselves in, we got going in the 1960s, California was not poured a taste. the only state to jump on the bandwagon. “Holy shit.” Today, Arizona has more than twenty different wineries. While most of these are in the state’s “Yeah.” southeast corner, which has also become the And that’s about where we left it, and where state’s first designated viticultural area (the Sonoita AVA), a few have also sprung up in the I’m going to leave it with you, the reader, Verde Valley southwest of the popular tourist because to try and regale you with the wonder of destination of Sedona. The most successful this wine, or even really describe it accurately, varieties grown in Arizona are those from the would simply be a disservice. Basically, I’ve southern Rhone, such as Syrah and Grenache, learned a few things from this experience: as well as Italian varietals, including Sangiovese Wine comes from spots that I did not know and Pinot Grigio. wine came from. Now, admittedly, the reason that Arizona As much as I like booze, I should never ever seemed an attractive wine destination for me again spend that much money on a bottle of was simply that Maynard James Keenan, the wine. Every wine I have had since has tasted frontman of art/hard rock band Tool has his busy like boxed swill. little fingers buried deeply in the operations of More importantly, wine tasting is fun, Page Springs Cellars, mostly in the production particularly when you put on a really large hat of his own line of vino, Caduceus. and a sarong (not me, the tasting companion), This was what I set out to taste, but it and talk out of your ass. Thanks Carol.
u WINE SCENARIO:
By Chris Hallowell
OPERATION: GET TOGETHER, DINNER PARTY, RAGER It’s Friday night and you get a call from your buddy. He’s throwing an impromptu party, it sounds like fun, and you want to go. Assuming the rhetorical nature of the question is understood, you ask the obligatory “Can I bring anything?” Low and behold, he did not get the Concept of Pleasantries memo and says, “Yeah, just bring the wine!” Rather than going the Seinfeld-esque route by explaining, “You see, that’s what we thus making the most intimidating task call a formality,” you decide to buck up the easiest. Typically these gatherings are not well prepared, so there won’t much in and buy the wine. the way of food and what little food there Ughh… “Just bring the wine,” he says, is can range from cheese and crackers to like he’s doing you a favor. Your mind Doritos. begins to race with thoughts of “What does everyone like? How much should I Since there are fewer people and little get? How much should I spend?” Now food, more attention will be on the wine. before you start hyperventilating, just take In these situations go for a relatively a puff on the ol’ inhaler and proceed on to inexpensive but discussion-worthy bottle that can be a super-versatile food wine, as reconnaissance. well as an easy-sipping cocktail. Try the Willm Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Noir. Reconnaissance: It’s an easy sipping sparkler with light, If you’re going to make it out of this alive, strawberry and cherry flavors with a waxy you need to know what you’re up against. honey and toasty aroma. It is made from Get a feel for how many people will be 100% Pinot Noir grapes using the same there. Will there be food? How many techniques as Champagne, but for a third will be drinking wine? Are there mostly the price. A Crémant will be perfectly red drinkers? Get a general feel for the type of party; is it a small get together? A dinner party? A rager? Just try to get as much info as possible without asking too many questions, you want to preserve your apathetically cool, play by your own rules.
War Room:
Whether it was done through torture tactics, seduction, or relentless nagging, you’ve acquired the highly guarded statistics you were looking for. Now it’s time for a plan. Here is the standard protocol for the three most prevalent situations.
The Get Together:
a.k.a. The Assemblage, Riunione Sociale (Italian), Zusammenkunft (German)
Wine Quantity: 1/2 bottle
per person
Wine Quality: Cool and Quirky
The Get Together always seems challenging because there are so many variables. However, the amount of options actually narrows down your pick to a small number of very versatile wines,
what to pair with the meal. Typically, you want to get a red and a white to accommodate all the tastes at the table. If you don’t know what is being served, go with a Second Glass recommended Pinot Noir or Dolcetto along with a Sauvignon Blanc for versatility.
The Rager:
a.k.a. The Eviction Notice, drinkable as a standalone cocktail and a the Ted Kennedy perfect compliment to soft and tamer firm cheeses, along with infinite pasta dishes, Wine Quantity: 1 Box per shellfish, vegetables, and slightly spicy 3 people hors’ dourves. Wine Quality: Drinkable The Dinner Party: a.k.a. the Judy Chicago, the With two thirds of Allston in one rundown Asia Carrere house’s basement, you need something that won’t stain your teeth, is portable, Wine Quantity: 3/4 bottle cold and will get you blacked out before per person the Berklee kids start “jamming.” My suggestion is the Black Box Chardonnay. Wine Quality: Awesome to Granted, it kind of tastes like wet leaves, Quite-Awesome but it actually has some decent fruit that on you as the night goes on and it Someone was already assigned the grows has a spigot! Think of all the possibilities. Chocolate Bobka so you have to get One (3) liter box for $20 is equal to four the wine. If you know what they are bottles of wine that can easily carry cooking, the process becomes a lot easier. around with you or you throw under a bush Just ask someone at your local wine shop when the party is broken up.
S A K E
by Tyler Balliet
日 TYPES OF SAKE
The Japanese government has created quality designations for sake. These classes refer to the level the rice is milled before the sake creation process. The more the rice is milled, the finer and more delicate the flavors.
Junmai
High quality sake, with the rice milled to at least 70% it’s original size. The sake is typically medium bodied with possible earthy flavors. Pairing: richer dishes such as pork, chicken, wagyu or grilled foods.
Ginjo
Premium sake with the grain milled to at least 60%. Light to medium in body with a fruit or floral flavor.
Pairing: lighter dishes, such as sashimi, nigiri, white meats, chicken and pork.
I usually ordered a carafe of hot sake when I dined at sushi restaurants. I didn’t mind the burning-alcohol taste and lack of flavor because I didn’t know any better and college had acclimated my taste buds to such beverages via countless shots of room temperature vodka poured from a plastic jug. It wasn’t until met with Nancy Cushman, Proprietor and Sake Sommelier at O Ya, a new, high end Japanese
restaurant in Downtown Boston, that I learned how truly wonderful sake could be. “This has some tropical flavors to it and it’s amazing what comes from rice because it’s just rice,” Cushman explains. I tasted bright honeydew, melon, banana, peaches and even yogurt flavors, all from rice wine. In a single afternoon I was completely turned around on sake.
Daiginjo
Super premium, using only the most refined grains, up to 50% milled. The most delicate style of sake, light in body with very bright fruit (melon, peaches, apple). Pairing: with light dishes such as sashimi.
Serving Brahmins & Bums since 1960
“Always drink responsibly. Those Tiffany lampshades can be pretty heavy.”
330 Newbury St Boston, MA 617-262-0363 • • • •
Fine Wine Spirits Craft Beer Knowledgeable and Friendly Staff
www.bauerwine.com Order Online or Phone it In. We Deliver!
日本酒 BREWING PROCESS
There are only four ingredients in sake; rice, koji, yeast and water. Sake brewers start with a special type A newer style of sake, which is light, fruity and of sake rice. This rice is unique because the starches are concentrated in the center of the kernel. The rice is fun. Makes a perfect aperitif. milled or polished to remove the oils and proteins, which Pairing: lighter dishes, such as sashimi, nigiri, surround the starchy center. The more the rice is milled, salad or dessert. the finer and more delicate the flavors of the finished product are. Nigori
Sparkling Sake
are very secretive and exact about the amount of water added, temperature and time the koji sits.
After about two days the koji is ready and it is combined with plain steamed sake rice, water and yeast, creating a yeast starter or moto. The moto is then moved to a large tank where over the course of a few days, as the yeast cells cultivate, more rice, water and koji are added becoming a mash or moromi. When the batch reaches the After the rice has been milled to the desired size, it desired volume it is left to ferment for 18 to 32 days. Unfiltered sake, which can be cloudy and milky in is steamed and combined with yeast and koji. Koji is a After the brewers deem the batch ready, it is pressed color with flavors of sweet rice and coconut. mold, which is cultivated on the steamed rice. It has been to remove some of the lees, or milky-ness. It is then Pairing: Lighter dishes, such as nigiri or dessert. used to create miso, soy sauce, and sake for over 1,000 filtered to remove the remaining cloudy-ness (unfiltered years. The colonies of koji, which are reserved from sake is called nigori). Sake is almost always pasteurized previous batches of sake rice, are mixed with fresh rice, before it is bottled, aged for about six months and ready Aged Sake a process similar to a sourdough bread starter. Breweries for consumption.
Most sake should be consumed within a year of its release. Some sakes can be aged, but the flavors change drastically, making for intense and very sharp flavors.
FINDING SAKE IN BOSTON STORES:
Seiyo
Pairing: other intense flavors, such as kobe beef or foie gras.
Deciphering sake labels can be a chore as many are written completely in Japanese. Ask your server or wine store employee if you have any questions. When in doubt, request a “premium sake” and look for the word ‘Junmai.’ Otherwise, the percentage the rice is milled to, designating quality, can sometimes be printed right on the label. If all else fails, use the same technique that got you started with wine; pick out a cold sake and give it a whirl. A sake label designating the percentage the rice is milled before the brewing process begins. The lower the number, That’s what exploring is all about! *Pairing by Nancy Cushman of O Ya.
the higher the grade of sake. Look for this number especially on bottles written in all Japanese.
RESTAURANTS:
Osushi
1721 Washington St 10 Huntington Ave Boston, MA Boston, MA (617) 447-2183 (617) 266-2788
Ginza
16 Hudson St Boston, MA (617) 338-2261
seiyoboston.com
osushirestaurant.com
330 Newbury St Boston, MA (617) 262-0363
1415 Washington St 9 East St Boston, MA Boston, MA (617) 262-0005 (617) 654-9900
Bauer Wine bauerwine.com
Brookline Liquor Mart
1354 Comm Ave Allston, MA (617) 734-7700 blmwine.com
Pho Republique O Ya phorepublique.net
The Savant Project
1625 Tremont St Boston, MA (617) 566-5958
thesavantproject.com
WINE PORN
ARAUJO CABERNET SAUVIGNON by Chris Hallowell
When you look at Bart and Daphne Araujo you see a very polished, wholesome couple that is clearly amongst the top 3% that benefit from the Bush administration’s tax breaks. What you don’t see is their inner-PETA members and Prius drivers. So what to do if you’re a country club member with grand aspirations of becoming a dirty hippie? Buy an über-expensive vineyard of course! In 1990, the Araujos got a call from Jean Phillips, their real-estate agent (as well as proprietor of Wine Porn Alumnus and fellow Cult Cab, Screaming Eagle). She informed them that the Eiseles were selling their illustrious vineyard that had long been the source of grapes for Robert Mondavi, Ridge, and Joseph Phelps. The Araujos jumped on the opportunity and spared no expense in hiring the most famed winemakers and consultants. In 2005 they surpassed dirty hippie and went full on witchdoctor when they became certified biodynamic. Even though they are now strategically burying manure and keeping track of the solstice, they haven’t given up their country club membership. That’s why, if you can find a bottle of their Cabernet, you’ll be lucky if the price tag is under $450.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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BARTENDER INTERVIEW:
u MAX TOSTE OF DEEP ELLUM
Left: Max Toste, Owner, Casey Keenan, Bartender In January of this year, Deep Ellum added some much needed substance to the Allston pub scene. With over 20 carefully chosen draft beers, over 100 bottled beers, creative cocktails and bar fare inspired by locations all over the world, the menu is as humbly impressive and welcoming as the brains behind it. Max Toste, bartender and co-partner, talks about his labor of love and the base of knowledge that makes his business different. How long have you been bartending? Five years. But I’ve been in the bar/restaurant industry for 15. With all of your experience, what are your
By Jodie Jordan
bartending pet peeves? I like people to have a good time. And if somebody wants a Long Island because they like it, that’s fine. But to order a rye Manhattan because they saw it on TV annoys me much more than a Long Island drinker. Sounds like a douche bag thing to say, but ya know… You opened a bar with a dynamic pub menu. What are your food and drink pairing preferences? Depends on the time of day, the person, their mood. A cocktail is a great aperitif. Beer and wine are both great with food. If you’re just hanging out, if you’re thirsty, there’s nothing better than beer. Maybe a shot of whiskey… What do you like to pair with beer? I really love beer and cheese. There’s just something about a soft stinky cheese with a good Belgian ale. If you could only drink one thing for the rest of your life… That sounds like torture. I’d rather not. But if I was stranded on a deserted island, I’d drink Cask conditioned ale, I guess. It’s beer that’s alive – it’s like food. I’d skip cutting down coconuts and drink that. Do you think there are a lot of misconceptions of beer? I think a lot of people think that that only dark
beer is good beer. There are a lot of great beers that aren’t dark. And what about wine? That it has to be fancy to be good. Or that you have to know a lot about wine to drink it. I think a lot of people are afraid to drink table wine because it’s not “fancy.” Would you rather be locked in a room with a beer geek or a wine snob? Ugh. I’d rather throw them both in a room watch them duke it out. What flavor profiles and textures do you take into consideration when creating a cocktail? Balance. Always balance. Proportions make the drink a whole. So there’s a formula to it? I go by One part sweet. One part sour. Two parts strong and three parts weak. What’s your favorite drink recipe? This is a Rye Manhattan from the 1930s. It’s oldest Manhattan recipe I could find: 2 parts rye whiskey 1 part sweet vermouth Muddled sugar cube 2 dashes Angostura bitters 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters Chill well with a spoon. Serve straight up with a twist.
What’s the most unique thing about Deep Ellum? The level of knowledge that our staff brings. We know what we’re selling way more than any other bar, especially considering what we’re selling. Anybody can just order something off the menu. The work of the staff is what makes it difference. Why did you decide to open Deep Ellum in Allston? It was the neighborhood that most needed what we wanted to do. It made more sense to go somewhere where we would add something. We stand out so much more here than we would on Tremont Street. What’s it like to open your own business? ” I would say it’s a labor of love. It’s hard to explain until you do it and it’s a lot of work. But if you love it you don’t notice - you’re working for yourself. I would have quit a long time ago if I was working for someone else. Best advice you’ve been given? Play your strengths. Do you think your last name had anything to do with your area of interest? Growing up with the last name Toste gives you a thick skin. I think I could pretty much have done anything after that.
I think a lot of people are afraid to drink table wine because it’s not “fancy.
GUARANTEED 100% SNOB FREE WINE ZONE! Sept. 23 Red Red Wine: Que Syrah Shiraz Sept. 24 Writing About Wine & Food Sept. 25 Wine & Chocolate Sept. 27 Wine 101 for the Complete Novice Sept. 30 Wine & Cheese Oct. 2 An Evening of Petite Sirah
Oct. 3 Writing About Food & Wine Oct. 9 A Night in Southern France Oct. 16 Organic, Natural & Biodynamic Wines Oct. 21 Vintages: Old Wines versus New Wines Oct. 23 & 30 Wine & Jazz Oct. 28 Blending Wine
Boston Wine School | 1354 Comm. Ave. Allston www.BostonWineSchool.com | 617-784-7150
RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATION:
u THE OTHERSIDE CAFE
By Tyler Balliet
A 100% Sustainably Farmed, Organic or Biodynamic Wine List in Boston’s Back Bay.
The OtherSide Café is known in hipster circles across the country as the place to eat and drink while in Boston. It’s easy to spend hours sipping on pints while utilizing the free Wi-Fi and rocking out to the just-loud-enough-to-still-hold-aconversation music. The quality beer selection along with a food menu packed with everything from the Southern style ‘Bama Breakfast (eggs, grits, fried greens, sausage and a biscuit) to fresh vegetarian options has kept me a regular patron since I moved to Boston. Although they are best known for their beer, The OtherSide Café has recently installed one of the only all sustainably farmed wine lists in Boston.
of the famous Barolos and Barbarescos) and France’s Burgundy and Beaujolais regions.
Food classics such as the bread, fruit and cheese platter – the best $10 spent in Boston – the vegan chili and the extensive sandwich selection have been appeasing carnivores and vegans alike for years. Welcome additions to the menu include a full brunch, served 10am to 3pm on weekends. Be sure to order a Mimosa or Bloody Mary with one of their creative breakfast items. A pastry counter filled with mouth watering, sugar loaded desserts has been added as well. However, the most recent and exciting addition to The OtherSide Café has always had wine, the Other Side’s menu is the completely but the new list contains only sustainably- vegan, raw food bar. grown, organically produced The reputation of The or biodynamic wines, OtherSide Café having available by the glass or the snooty servers who are bottle. Earthy, terrior based only nice to their friends wines from Italy, France, is quickly fading. In my South America and California regular excursions here, I grace the affordable menu have always been treated (from $7 per glass and $28 with respect. One thing per bottle). to note, however, is the
“Things like organics aren’t just a trend, they’re essential.”
The wine is served in - Henry Patterson, service can be very slow tall, narrow glasses, which on weeknights and they Restaurateur resembles something that do tend to run out of comes with a pitcher of beer. select menu items. But On one hand, the glasses aren’t conducive in the grand scheme of things, this is a to getting the full aroma of the wine. On minor issue. As long as you come to The Photo by A. Friedland the other hand, you’re surrounded by OtherSide Café with the same laid-back The patio at The OtherSide Café is regularly packed in the summer. tattoo-clad patrons while the Pixies scream attitude as the regular patrons and the staff over the sound system. The glassware you will always make new friends on the was chosen as a nod to the small Italian patio and this will become your favorite The OtherSide Café is located at 407 Newbury Street villages, where wine is served in glasses, hangout in Boston. not stemware. Plus, this isn’t the Four Seasons; it’s a place to hang out with FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS friends and enjoy good food and drink. Although most of the traditional food The bread fruit and cheese platter, which is thinly sliced zucchini tossed The wine list is the brainchild of Henry at the Other Side is best paired with served with a yogurt and honey dipping with vegan pesto sauce surrounded by Patterson, the proprietor and general beer, some of the new additions fit well sauce screams for wine. Assorted fresh tomatoes. If you’re a baller and manager, since 2005. “We’re not going to with the wine list. fruit accompany soft and hard cheeses just got paid, clean them out of all the put anything on the list that isn’t sustainably surrounded by a sliced baguette. Pair with Wild Hog Zinfandel ($12 glass/ $42 farmed,” Patterson says. Having pioneered The veggie pies, similar to quiche, are the Mattei Barbera ($7 glass/ $28 bottle) bottle) they have! one of the first extensive wine-by-the-glass completely vegetarian are served with a or the Des 2 Anes Carignane Blend ($8 lists in Boston, he has now taken a heavy salad. Compliment one of these dishes glass/ $32 bottle). Finish your dining experience by interest in biodynamic and sustainable with some of the crisp white wines, such splitting one of the many delicious farming. “Things like organics aren’t just as the Cesconi Chardonnay ($9 glass/ For a delicious vegan, raw food bonanza desserts from the pastry counter $35 bottle) or the Cantina Gries Pinot start with the veggie “chips and dip” accompanied by a half bottle of the a trend, they’re essential,” Patterson states. Grigio ($8 glass/ $32 bottle). which consists of dried beet and carrot lightly sparkling and sweet Piero Gatti He gained his wine knowledge from chips with a hummus-like, cashew dip. Moscato ($19 half bottle). running restaurants and working many Follow this with the “pasta” with pesto, harvests in Italy’s Piedmont region (home THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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ORGANIC BIODYNAMIC AND SUSTAINABLY FARMED WINES by Chris Hallowell 16
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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ORGANIC VITICULTURE
ith all the hype around global warming you’ve suddenly become a lot more environmentally aware. You’re already sleeping on unbleached cotton sheets and flaunting your PETA shirt while riding your bike to the supermarket to recycle your soda cans, but it just doesn’t seem to be enough. Isn’t there something else you could do for the planet? Yes, and all you have to do is drink more wine! More and more wine makers are choosing the benefits of sustainable, organic, and biodynamic viticulture over conventional methods. Though “natural” wines were seen as a novelty in the 80s and early 90s, the outbreaks of mad cow disease and foot and mouth disease catapulted organically farmed wines to superstardom. Now with people demanding to know where their food is coming from, rising fuel prices, and heightened environmental awareness, “natural” farming techniques are definitely more than just a winemaking trend.
A
lright, tree huggers, here you go-- organically farmed wines. To achieve this highly regarded certification, the grapes must be farmed free of genetic modification or manmade, industriallysynthesized compounds. Sounds simple, right? Wrong. Think about it: how do you stop millions of animals and insects from eating easily accessible, sweet, and delicious berries? By dousing the vines in synthetic poisons, of course! And how do you keep little, water-filled, softshelled capsules from rotting or growing mold and bacteria in the warm sun? With tons of chemicals! Unless… with today’s technology you could create some kind of monster He-Grape in a lab, impervious to all disease! Oh wait, no genetic modifications. Such is the dilemma of the organic farmer.
So how do they do it? Well, organic farmers are forced to focus on prevention rather than scrambling to find a cure for the vine’s problems. This is done primarily by feeding and fertilizing the soil as opposed to the vine.
Organic farming is based on the principle that healthy soil makes for healthy, steadily fed and nurtured vines that will be less vulnerable to disease. Composting provides organic fertilizer that is rich in nutrients that attract beneficial living organisms like certain bacteria, fungi, and worms, which in turn make for healthier plants. Synthetics (usually applied to the plant and not the soil) inhibit all organisms, both detrimental and beneficial. On the other hand, while healthy soil is good for making healthy vines, it is also good for making healthy weeds that strangle vines as well as steal nutrients from them. When faced with this problem, these McGyvers of winemaking have been known to herd sheep in between the vine rows to feed on the weeds. If a herd of sheep isn’t readily available, they can plant cover crops of things like clovers to attract other
helpful fauna to eat weeds and scare away potential grape stealers.
Growing and nurturing a strong, healthy vine is just the beginning. Organic farmers still have to ward off mildews without chemical sprays. For this they use naturally occurring substances like salt copper sulfate and soap plant oils. In addition to being all-natural, these are contact sprays. This means they are just applied to the surface of the plant where they remain. Most synthetic sprays make their way through to the vine’s sap and eventually the pulp of the grape. For those of you keeping score at home, grapes from conventionally farmed vineyards let synthetic chemicals make it into your wine! So why doesn’t everyone farm their grapes organically? Organic farming can be very risky. If some unforeseen super-aphid starts spreading like a plague and starts to destroy all the vines, organic farmers cannot use poison to save their vines. They face using industrial sprays and losing organic status (which they can’t get back for three years), or finding a slower, organic solution, which may give the aphids enough time to ravage the vines. In the short term, it is costly to convert to organic status. Perennial crops like grapes take two years before they can be certified organic. That means that once a winery decides to farm organically, not only do they have to start all the organic practices and adopt new pest control methods, but they won’t even be deemed organic for three years and have to wait just as long before they see any return on their investment. These factors make the switch from conventional viticulture to organic very difficult and very costly. A much easier transition however, is the switch to sustainable viticulture and then from sustainable to organic.
Organically farmed wine and organic wine are NOT the same.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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SUSTAINABLE VITICULTURE
S
ustainable viticulture is the most prevalent of the three “natural” viticulture practices. It focuses on avoiding any environmental degradation or deterioration while retaining the economic viability of the winery. As Mike Benziger, Winegrower, General Manager, and Winemaker for Benziger Family Winery puts it, “Certified-Sustainable is the first step on the path towards growers becoming organic and Biodynamic. [It] is rooted in environmentally and socially responsible practices designed to preserve vineyard character.” Though it is very similar to organic farming, sustainable vineyards are allowed to use some pesticides, though the strength of the spray is greatly reduced. Sustainable vineyards break away from the norm by doing away with calendarbased sprayings of chemicals and only using them as needed. Basically, sustainable viticulture can be like training wheels for the winegrower that wants to be organic but is scared of an insect disaster and wants the option of spraying. Sustainable vineyards try to offset the sprayings needed by utilizing Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM involves monitoring pests and 18
environmental conditions and then creating the worst condition possible for the pests. Benziger (biodynamic) does this “primarily through the creation of a balanced system of predator and prey relationships in and around the vineyard. We practice natural pest control on our estate properties through the planting of wildlife sanctuaries devoted to attracting beneficial mites, bugs, butterflies, birds and small animals that prey on pests harmful to grapevines.” In the end the vines thrive without chemical intervention
is situated completely off the grid and is run purely by solar and hydropower. As a result, they are selfreliant and sustaining, resulting in money saved and a less expensive wine on the shelf. Just think of all the hacky sacks you can buy with the money you’re saving!
In addition to pest control, the self-sustaining farmer tries to sustain his needs by using only what’s available from the land. Since fossil fuels don’t typically sprout out from a well under vineyards, sustainable and organic farmers try to rely more on manual labor instead of using machinery that consume resources that can’t be taken from or given back to the land. Many “natural” vineyards are switching over to solar power and some even go to the extent of recycling carbon dioxide gas produced in alcoholic fermentation in order the provide themselves with a sustainable source of power. Wild Hog Vineyards (organic), for instance,
Organically farmed wine and organic wine is NOT the same thing. Organic wines make up less than 1% of organically farmed wines and are made from organic grapes without the addition of any sulfites during the winemaking process. While this sounds good in theory, it is not very practical as it can lead to bacteria growth and spoilage. On the other hand wines made from organically farmed grapes can contain up to 2/3 the sulfites used in conventional wines.
Organic vs Organically Farmed Wine
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE
wo parts organic viticulture and one part voodoo, Now here’s where it gets more than a little out of the biodynamic viticulture is definitely the most ordinary. In addition to not using any chemical sprays, intensive of the “natural” farming practices. biodynamics recognizes each vine as having four distinct Mike Benziger states that biodynamic is “a parts; the root, leaf, flower, and fruit. All of which holistic farming approach that encompasses many of the correspond with one of the four elements; earth, water, principles of organic farming, such as the elimination air, and fire. When work is needed in one of these of all chemicals. However, biodynamics takes organics areas, the farmer must wait until the moon is aligned a few steps further, requiring close with the element’s particular zodiac attention to the varied forces of nature and therefore has the strongest Though the reasons sign influencing the vine. It also emphasizes “force.” Though the reasons for the a closed nutrient and self-sustaining for the farming can be farming can be scrutinized by many a ecosystem.” It is based on the theories skeptic, a side effect of this is that it of the Austrian philosopher Rudolf scrutinized by many a forces wineries to make their vineyard Steiner, set forth in the 1920s. It was skeptic, a side effect small, focused, and well maintained. his theory that a whole vineyard is a Since there are only two to three day living organism and should be managed of this is that it forces windows when the moon is aligned, as self-sustaining. The composts made the vineyard must be small enough for wineries to make from chamomile, nettles, dandelion, every vine to get the proper attention. their vineyard small, Does all this astrology really have a oak bark, and other materials should all come from the vineyard. Cattle, noticeable effect on the wine? No one focused, and well as opposed to tractors, used to plow can say for certain. What is known, maintained. the land should live on the vineyard. however, is that biodynamically Sprays are made from manure and farmed vineyards are putting out quartz-filled cow horns (all sourced from the land) and some very serious wines that capture terroir extremely pests are collected from the property and subsequently well. Go see for yourself! ashed and spread to dissuade future pests from taking up So there you have it. We’ve gone from merely shunning residence on the vines. synthetic chemicals to busting out the tarot cards and
everywhere in between. Whether you are among the less then 1% of biodynamic believers, or you just don’t like the idea of pesticides making it into your wine, you can’t argue that organic farming produces some of the best fruit. Theoretically, shouldn’t the best fruit produce the best wine? In some instances, sustainable farmers are basically organic farmers that are not certified. Though some may farm up to organic standards, they may not have the time, money, or desire to go through the certification process. And the #1 organic question not to bother your local wine store clerk with because he has heard it 14,000 times is… Q: Do organic and biodynamically farmed wines taste different from conventional wines? A: “Typically, organic wines are un-filtered, or un-fined, and have little or no technological manipulation… this allows the vineyard to reflect more vividly through its wines. The wines show more complexity, more aromatics (sometimes very earthy aromatics), and a longer and more persistent finish.”-Answer given by Christopher Minchin, General Manager of Millesimes Fine Wine Imports.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
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u WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 2004 Opolo Vineyards Petit Verdot
AMERICAN WHITE:
Paso Robles, CA $30
2005 Ceàgo Vinegarden Chardonnay This is the current project of Jim Fetzer, one of California’s pioneering biodynamic winegrowers. His new Chardonnay has a rich, creamy texture with great tropical fruit flavors of kiwi and banana. *
This formidable bottle commands respect instantly with its black core surrounded by a small purple rim. It has an almost port-like aroma with blackberry, strawberry, caramel, and lots of oak. On the palate the sweet fruit is joined by dark, dark chocolate and chalk. Its velvety tannins will leave you comfortably numb as you start the long fruit-driven finish.
2005 La Crema Pinot Noir
2006 Mas de la Dame Rosé
Lake County, CA $18
AMERICAN RED: Sonoma Coast, CA
Pinot Noir is very tasty, but most of the inexpensive bottles are either disgusting or it tastes like cherry soda. With the La Crema Pinot you get what you pay for. It’s like an awesomely roided-out Burgundy with delicious strawberry and raspberry fruit with hints of earth and dried straw. Drink it along side something with chanterelles.
2004 Matchbook Block House Blend Dunnigan Hills, CA
BBQ ribs, pulled pork, and a bottle of Matchbook Block House Red might be Utopia. The spicy blend of 57% Syrah, 29% Tempranillo, 7% Malbec, and 7% Petit Verdot is as assertive as it is smooth. Blueberry and cherry fruit dominate the nose with traces of red pepper, and oak. On the palate it picks up a leafy character with a bit of rubber. If you think you can handle the please trifecta, find this bottle.
2004 Alexander Valley Vineyards Syrah Sonoma, CA $20
This bottle was tasted next to a $90 bottle of California Cab and a $100 bottle of Bordeaux. After tasting them side by side, it’s hard to imagine anyone ever spending more than $20 on a bottle. Infinitely interesting with blueberry, licorice, cedar, violets, and earth, this bottle proves it is worth being sought out.
2004 Crescendo Hills Zinfandel
Napa, CA $28 Don’t be scared by the price, if you’re in to Zinfandels you have to try it. It is dark, transparent red with an aroma of sweet plum, cauliflower, coconut, and kirsch liqueur. On the palate in also showed a little iron and a sweet alcohol burn. It had a lengthy sweet cherry finish that will make you forget all about the money you no longer have.
20
2003 Grande Maison ‘Cuvee Mademoiselle’ Monbazillac France $22
FRENCH ROSÉ: France $15
Look out earthlings; Nostradamus says we have until the year 3797 before the end of the world and either A. eradication or B. relocation. 1,790 years is a long time to just twiddle our thumbs, but fortunately for us, Nostradamus was kind enough to give us something to bide our time with. In addition to his more depressing premonitions, he wrote that the Mas de la Dame house would be farmed by two women and wouldn’t you know it, it’s managers are currently Caroline Missoffe and Anne Poniatowski. Check out the 2006 Mas de la Dame Rosé. The blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault offers floral and fruity aromas as well as flavors of strawberry, sundried tomato, mineral, and pepper. Remember to stock up, you’re going to need it to last a while.
This is for those of you with Sauternes tastes on a moscato budget. It has an enormously concentrated, viscous body of peach skin and dried apricot fruit followed by lots of honey and vanilla. This will be a delicious partner to your cheesecake.
FRENCH RED:
2005 Mas de Gourgonnier Provence, France $16
This wine pours out of its funky, traditionally shaped bottle. Though it looks a little like a jug, it’s all part of the charm. On the nose the fruit is intense but there is also a light and fresh vegetal characteristic. On the palate, the red currant and pine from the nose was joined by blackberry, petrol, and stone. The finish was hot with alcohol, really bringing out the pine. This is a very tasty, big, Cab-Merlot made for your next slab of meat, I’m thinking lamb.
2002 Aric
Corbières, France $20
FRENCH WHITE:
This is a thoroughly impressive blend of Carignane, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. It has a nose that screams licorice! After taking the initial whiff, you find some blackberry, vanillin oak, and dark chocolate. On the palate it shows its creamy texture and subtle tannin with flavors of dark fruits, fatty meat, and spice.*
Entre-Deux-Mers. Bordeaux $11
Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux $22
2005 Chateau Bonnet
2003 Chateau Reysson
Tyler and I tasted about 30 Bordeaux whites at a best of Bordeaux under $25 tasting. This was the best bottle by far. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and a bit of Muscadelle has a nose of lemon, grapefruit, and straw. It is medium bodied with good acidity and some sweetness. It is very crisp and ends with sugary fruit and a tingle of acidity and alcohol.
This is quite possibly the find of the century for Bordeaux. Though there is license for wine critics to call three different Bordeaux vintages the best of the century, three for every hundred years is still pretty limited. This was tasted in a flight of Bordeaux of which it was the least expensive and also the best. It wasn’t incredibly complex but it is perfectly structured. There’s just the right amount of toasty French oak to contrast the mineral and rich raspberry, currant, and plum fruit.
2000 Château Veyry Côtes de Castillon Bordeaux, France
If you read Tyler’s Bordeaux article, you know that you will probably never be able to buy the stuff ever again in your life…ever. That is, unless you act immediately. Although thirty bucks is not the price of an everyday bottle, this is your last chance to drink a really great wine from the say all and end all of Bordeaux years, 2000. This bottle acts much more mature than its age with raspberries and currants, minerals, and musk. Its soft, velvety tannins tingle as the long finish reminds you of iron and cedar.
ITALIAN WHITE:
NV Sorelle Bronca Brut Prosecco
Want some bubbly that tastes like it could be pricy but won’t set you back? Try checking out this Prosecco. There are hints of pear and green apple, some minerality, and tangy acidity. Bring this one sans price tag when going to a friend’s so they feel obligated to drop some serious cash when they return the favor. *
2005 Marco Felluga Pinot Grigio
While a lot of Pinot Grigios pretend they are the Michelob Ultra Light of the wine world, this one isn’t afraid to show some flavor. It has a generous aroma of lemon zest with a hint of white flowers. Still, it’s light and crisp and makes a perfect complement to some freshly caught summer flounder.-JL
2006 Cantina Gries Pinot Grigio Bolzano, Italy $11
An amazingly good Pinot Grigio that can be enjoyed by itself but has enough acidity to go with just about any kind of food you can find. The banana, lychee, and pineapple fruit cover the fresh cut grass and mineral undertones. It finishes off with a slightly tart tinge of pineapple.*
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
u WINE RECOMMENDATIONS ITALIAN WHITE:
LETTER FROM THE TASTING DIRECTOR
2006 Cantina Produttori Bolzano Muller-Thurgau:
If you order Thai delivery as much as I do, you might want to keep a few bottles of this in your house. With a touch of sweetness and powerful flavors of peach and litchi, this wine can power through the spiciness and pair well with your Pad Thai or Drunken Noodle. This is a must-try for fans of Gewurztraminer.-JL
2005 Eisacktaler Kellerei Blauburgunder
Few red wines are as light and crisp as this Italian Pinot Noir. But even though it’s a lightweight wine, it delivers some solid cinnamon and black cherry flavor. Those of you starting to go into red wine withdrawal because of the torrid weather might give this one a shot to cure your fix.-JL *
2005 Cantina Renzo Sangiovese di Toscana Rufina, Italy $7
This is a great party buy. For seven dollars before a case discount, you’ll never see better fruit. The clean cherry and strawberry flavors with a hint of rosemary are totally enjoyable. The finish is practically nonexistent but who cares? It costs next to nothing.
2005 Vitiano Falesco Cab-MerSangiovese Umbria, Italy $11.50
This is a super-approachable, juicy wine that even the most timid of wine drinkers will love. It has a bright fruit core of grape jam and cherry bubblegum. If you dig deep enough, you can dig up some broccoli and bell pepper flavors. On the other hand, this wine isn’t about assessing, it’s about being able to share a red with your “I only like whites” friend.
2004 TerrGens Sangiovese di Romagna
This is my idea of inexpensive Sangiovese! It has a pretty aroma of violets and rich, juicy plum fruit on the palate. This isn’t a terribly complex wine, but with its representative searing Sangiovese acidity, it works great as a go-to wine for simple tomato-based pasta dinners.-JL
2004 Avignonesi Rosso di Toscana $12
Pizza has found its soul mate in this blend of Prugnolo Gentile (local Sangiovese grape), Cabernet, and Merlot. This bottle shows loads of cherries, button mushrooms, oregano, and cardamom. On the palate the dark and earthy cherry fruit is followed up by gravel and licorice. This is the perfect accompaniment to a Pats game.
2005 Cantina Del Pino
Dolcetto D’Alba Albeisa $15
Ready for a career change? How about becoming a sommelier? Here’s all you need to know, pair the Cantina Del Pino Dolcetto with everything. This juicy Dolchetto with jammy cherry and grape fruit, a little bit of wood, a touch of pepper, and acidity to spare will stand up to most everything you can put in front of it.
DESSERT:
Piero Gatti Brachetto d’Aqui 2006 (half-bottle)
This slightly sweet, fizzy wine is so delicious and so seductive that it could even make the burliest of lumberjacks purr like a kitten. Like other Brachettos, it has aromas of fresh raspberries and blackberries, but it also has a mouth-watering creaminess that sets it apart. Unless sweet wine is against your religion, give this a shot! It pairs best with chocolate-covered strawberries, scented candles, and wild inhibition.-JL *
Hey Guys, The organic issue has arrived! It has been really exciting to come out with this issue because of all the passion and curiousity surrounding “natural” wines. “Natural” winemakers and enthusiasts live to advocate their wine, their land, and the environment. All the wines are so unique and raw, plus there are no poisons in the wine…so that’s a bonus. I also want to thank you for your responses. It’s awesome to hear which wines you like, don’t like, and your suggestions. It has been eye opening to see the varied tastes this relatively small city has. Let me know what you think of the different “natural’ wines. Do you think the wines are generally better, worse, or different? How important is remaining sustainable and not using synthetic chemicals? Let me know Boston! Chris Hallowell Tasting Director chris@thesecondglass
AUSTRALIAN WHITE: 2005 ‘Kalleske’ Clarry’s Barossa White Barossa Valley, Australia
$20
This was a beautiful blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Chenin Blanc. It subtly released apple, pear, floral, and watermelon bubblegum aromas with a slight gaseousness I usually only find in great Rieslings. It had a slightly thick and viscous mouth feel with citrus fruit and steel showing amidst the other aromas.
AUSTRALIAN RED::
2005 Paringa Shiraz Murray Valley South Australia $12
This has all I could ask from an Australian Shiraz for only $12. Mounds of dark berries with vanilla and freshly ground pepper. No frills, just the meat and potatoes. Speaking of which, this would be perfect with both.
2005 Yalumba Y Series Shiraz/ Viognier South Australia $11
This big and chewy, juicy wine pours deep purple in your glass. Gobs of blueberry, blackberry, and peach fruit dominated this wine in addition to violets and ricotta cheese. It had a huge mouth-feel with bold and very rich fruit. A great representation of jimmy Australian Shiraz with a kick from the sweet peachy Viognier!
2006 ‘Marquis Philips’ Shiraz South Eastern Australia
$17
This jammy, chewy Shiraz is a meal in itself! It gives rich aromas of Blueberry yogurt, blackberry, licorice, and a little bit of oak. On the palate the tannins are very apparent but definitely silky and non-intrusive. It also dredges up some cinnamon before its juicy blueberry finish.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
21
u WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 2005 ‘Ken Forrester’ Petit Chenin
2002 Brother in Arms ShirazCabernet
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Australia $20
One afternoon in London, the boys of rock band, Dire Straits opened a bottle of wine that inspired them to write such classics as “Money for Nothing” and “Walk of Life.” They compiled these golden tracks on an album named after their muse, Brother in Arms. This bottle is so rich with its chewy blueberry and dark currant fruit. It shows incredible complexity with flavors of cedar, pencil lead, vanilla, and earth. This is a unique opportunity to get the best of Australia for 20 bucks.
SOUTH AFRICAN ROSÉ: 07 Seven Sisters Rosé South Africa $11
This off-dry rosé is a serious guilty pleasure. It reminds me of those strawberry hard candies with the strawberry jam center. In addition to the sweet strawberry fruit there are a lot of flowers and some caramel to make it ultra-pleasurable somewhat viscoustextured wine.
SOUTH AFRICAN WHITE:
07 Seven Sisters Bukettraube
South Africa $14 Buket-what? Germany was kind enough to bring this grape over to South Africa where it is making some phenomenal wines. This grape rumored to be a cross of Riesling and Silvaner was taken by the Seven Sisters winery and transformed into a wine with a straw nose and slightly sweet lychee, lemon-lime, and cantaloupe fruit.
07 Seven Sisters Sauvignon Blanc South Africa $16
22
South African wines are making their mark on the Second Glass and this bottle is one of the main contributors. On the nose it shows some banana, ripe pear aromas and a faint trace of minerality before the alcoholic tingle takes over. On the palate it is a fruit forward wine with a very slight touch of sweetness. Banana cream pie and almond joy ice cream bars find their way into this bottle. It is perfect for a cocktail on one of the few remaining hot nights.
GERMAN WHITE: 2004 Leitz Riesling Kabinett Rheingau Germany $17
This is my favorite buy in German wine period. There are great aromas of apples, peaches, and orange marmalade. It is a fruit-forward and almost Auslese sweet Kabinett. It has an awesome balance between fruit, alcohol, and acidity from the beginning to the end. The fruit calms down on the finish, making way for the more subtle floral notes. This is the perfect bottle for someone with Spatlese and Auslese tastes on a Kabinett budget. P.S. Since acidity and sugar are preservatives (Leitz has plenty of both) this wine hits its sweet spot after about 5 days of being open in your fridge and can easily stay there for twice as long!
2005 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris Pfalz, Germany $13
This is the most unique Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever had. It is extremely fresh and grassy with a ton of gooseberry and orange leading on to a very long finish for a Sauv. Blanc. It is super-vegetal, but not in a bad way. More of a refreshing, biting into a crunchy piece of celery way. This bottle comes highly recommended for pairing with raw vegetable appetizers.
$10
Looking for a little bit more from your lackluster Pinot Grigio? Buy this complex and crisp Pinot Gris. The aroma shows pear and hinted at some wood. On the palate this proves to have very bold fruit, some spice, wet stone, and crisp acidity that begs for food. There is dried apricot and smokiness on the lingering finish. Look for this bottle; it’s a big step up from some Alsatian Pinot Gris that are twice the price.
SPANISH CAVA: NV Cristalino Rosé Cava Jaume Serra Penedes, Spain $10
I can probably count all the less than $10 rosé sparklers I’ve ever seen on one hand. I can count all the greats on one finger. The Cristalino rosé Cava is no joke with aromas of strawberries, cherries, minerals, toast, and a touch of spice. It makes for a perfect goto sparkler since there are hundreds of cases produced and you can find it anywhere. Try ditching the Mimosa and mix this with cranberry juice.
NV Lacatus Cava Penedes, Spain $13
Immediately upon tasting this Cava my eyes lit up! Then after looking at the price I frowned. It wasn’t expensive, just the opposite in fact. I realized I had no option; I had to buy all that was left in the store, thus emptying my wallet. It has a very pungent nose that gives off intense green apple with lemon notes as well. On the palate it is very toasty and has a lot of tingling acidity and leaves you with mineral and orange zest. If you trust your local seafood purveyor, put this next to some ceviche.
SPANISH RED: 2003 Marques de Caceres Crianza Rioja, Spain $15
This is not your typical Rioja. It has aromas of plum, tomato sauce, and wet earth. Then on the palate, it has what is probably the most intense gravel flavor I’ve ever tasted in a wine. After getting past the intense stone flavor there is a slight smokiness and some more plum and cherry. It is a juicier Rioja with some acidity and soft tannins. On the stony finish, there’s a little more plum as well as some herbs.
2004 Els Guiamets ‘Les Tallades’ Monstant Cataluna, Spain $16
Here’s a bottle for the open-minded. This very well might be my favorite buy this issue, but let’s just say not everyone shares my opinion. The stinky nose of barnyard, hay, musk, cherry and chocolate blow you away before you even get the glass close enough to touch your lips. It reminds me of much older and much more expensive wines, with it’s deep concentration, rustic style, and a range of flavors that usually only comes with 10 years more bottle age.
2005 Atteca Old Vines Garnacha Calatayud, Spain $21
Check this out! This is a very rich, very spicy, very complex, and very entertaining wine with a badass label. It doesn’t stop giving with aromas of plum and black currant fruit, along with salami, mint, graham cracker, and flowers. It is very concentrated with lots of fruit and spice on the palate with tin and toasty oak.
AUSTRIA: 2005 Höpler Grüner Veltliner Burgenland, Austria
$15
Here you go, your go-to restaurant wine. Grüners pair with damn near everything, including the almost impossible to pair artichoke. The Höpler is no exception with its lemon-lime, crushed stone, and peach fruit nose. The wine is on the lighter side of medium-bodied and has some dried fruit on the palate. The finish is a pepper explosion with a bit of watermelon rind.
ARGENTINA: 2004 Graffigna Malbec Argentina $9
The 2004 Graffigna Malbec is definitely one of my top 10 for under $10 wines. In an ideal world it would have a little more weight, but the medium body it does offer delivers juicy plum fruit, chocolate, cedar, and sultry smoke. Its chalky finish brings out some meat, red pepper, and banana peel. Come to think of it, these are a lot of descriptors for a $9 wine.
THE SECOND GLASS • ISSUE #5 • ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, AND SUSTAINABLE WINE
2005 Clos de los Siete
SAKE: JAPANESE RICE WINE
Mendoza, Argentina $17
It’s surprising that when you are the consulting winemaker for over 100 w i n e r i e s worldwide, you can give enough time to make any of the wines good. Michelle Rolland, the Xerxes of wine consulting, has managed to make this bottle exceptional. Just looking at the broad-shouldered bottle foreshadows the wine’s powerful concentration and firm tannins. It has plum and grapey raison fruits, with nice rich chocolate and a long finish. This belongs next to the rarest of rare steaks.
CHILE:
2005 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere Central Valley, Chile $11
This Carmenere is an opaque dark red with rubber, smoke, cedar, and the darkest of dark chocolates on the nose. Creamy in texture, it brings out plum fruit on the palate that is covered up by other aromas on the nose. The smokiness hangs on the finish and is accompanied by sirloin and vanilla.
Some Organic and Biodynamic Recs from Previous Issues:
Piero Gatti 2005 Moscato D’Asti Piemonte, Italy $14 Mattei 2003 Barbera Piemonte, Italy $11 Domaine Des 2 Anes 2003 L’Enclos Languedoc, France $19 Cascina Morassino 2004 Dolcetto D’Alba Albeisa Piemonte, Italy $14 Wild Hog 2005 Pinot Noir (Saralee’s Vineyard) Russian River Valley, California $27 Adanti 2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco d’Arquata Umbria, Italy $33 Adanti 2004 Nispero Rosso Dell’ Umbria, Italy $11 Les Grandes Vignes 2004 Cotes du Rhone, France $11
Kanbara “Bride of the Fox” Junmai Ginjo $17 (300ml)
This sake boasts aromas of apple, pear, and kiwi. On the palate it gives off more fruit with the addition of wheat bread.
Tentaka Kuni “Hawk in the Heavens” Junmai $12 (300ml) Apple, earth, and roasted peanuts dominate this smoky, heftier sake.
Fukucho “Moon on the Water” Junmai Ginjo $17 (300ml)
My personal favorite of the sake recommendations, this brings forth honeydew melon, honey, anise, and rosehips.
THE URBAN CITY GUIDE WITH A REAL VOICE.
Mukune “Root of Innocence” Junmai Ginjo $19.50 (300ml)
In addition to the totally bad-assness of its name, this sake has great hot red pepper, tomato, and kiwi flavors.
Mantensei “Star-filled Sky” Junmai Ginjo $14.50 (300ml)
This is a great, low-key sake that is slightly sweet with melon and honey.
Chiyonosono “Sacred Power” Junmai Ginjo $19 (300ml)
This sweet smelling liquid has a super floral nose with flavors of honeydew melon, grass, and big surprise, rice.
Sato no Homare “Pride of the Village” Junmai Ginjo $20 (300ml)
This sake is made in Japan’s oldest Sake Brewery (founded in 1150). The owner is 55th generation sake brewer! This had aromas and flavors of lychee, apple, and cucumber.
w w w. y e l p . c o m Real People. Real Reviews™
A bottle of wine at dinner in Jamacia Plain, a glass of sparkling in the South End, two more glasses and a nightcap in Cambridge..... Spending a night finding the most baller bottle of wine in Boston for the cheapest price..... worth the hangover in the morning.
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