Out & About with The Berkshire Edge, November 2022 - February 2023

We are located at 454 Main Street just outside of Great Barrington center in an English Gothic Revival mansion with unique, old-time charm.

Built in 1851 by Dr. Clarkson T. Collins with Blue Dolomite granite sourced from a local quarry, the building has a storied past. In addition to its original medical uses, it has housed a Christian Science church, a Waldorf high school, McTeigue & McLelland Jewelers who beautifully restored this special building, and now the Great Barrington Dispensary!

Custom display cases that once showed heirloom jewelry and gemstones now feature the state’s best artisanal cannabis offerings, including an assortment of products from our house brand No. 9 Sun Flower Collection.

We look forward to welcoming you at the Cannabis Castle—if you are 21+, of course.

Savor the pleasures of winter

Welcome to winter in the Berkshires! The summer crowds are gone, the leaf peepers have done their peeping, and now is the time for us to savor the fresh, crisp Berkshire winter air and to enjoy the hidden treasures that most people miss.

Here’s to Robert Frost, who once opined, “You can’t get too much winter in the winter.” This magazine is filled with great information to help you experience your best possible winter

And as Aristotle wrote, “To appreciate the beauty of a snowflake it is necessary to stand out in the cold.” Starting on page 46, you will find Evelyn Battaglia’s complete guide to all the known and not-so-known places for you to stand out in the cold and have a great time engaged in outdoor sports—Alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking. As Evelyn says, “The throngs have it all wrong: winter is when the Berkshires reveals its true nature—all craggy hills and rocky outcroppings and snow-covered (fingers crossed) ground that beckons us outdoors . . . and you’ll be breathing in the crisp, clean, invigorating air.”

Our write-ups on towns tell you what’s happening all over the Berkshires and, in case you’d like a slight change of venue but the same amazing air, we have a day trip for you on page 53 to Wilmington, Vermont.

But winter in the Berkshires is not only about the outdoors. No longer does the Berkshires shut down after Labor Day. In the past few years we have observed a growth in the cultural offerings in the winter months. Our Art & Performance section, which begins on page 56, offers you a winter’s worth of calendar items.

And winter is also the time for wedding engagements—did you know that most engagements take place between Thanksgiving and Valentine’s Day? So, for those of you now planning weddings, our annual wedding section on pages 64 to 80 is the place to start. But don’t miss our yearround wedding resource online at PerfectBerkshireWeddings.com on The Berkshire Edge. There we offer you more articles and tips from local experts, plus a complete directory of some 300 venues and services for weddings in the Berkshires.

And lastly, as the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley said, “If winter comes, can spring be far behind?”

Enjoy your winter. Our next issue of Out & About with The Berkshire Edge comes out in early May. We’ll catch you again then.

Best regards,

Marcie L. Setlow, Publisher

Vol. 5. No.3

The Berkshire Edge, LLC P.O. Box 117, Great Barrington, MA 01230 info@theberkshireedge.com theberkshireedge.com

Contents Copyright © 2022 The Berkshire Edge, LLC; theberkshireedge.com and BerkshiresCalendar.com No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher.

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Contributors Spotlight

EVELYN BATTAGLIA

Evelyn Battaglia has been an arch inhabitant of the lifestyle publishing space for over two decades, notably crafting magazine stories and curating best-selling books on cooking, entertaining, and weddings for Martha Stewart Omnimedia. As a contented NYC expat, Evelyn relishes digging in her garden, hiking with her rambunctious dog, and soaking up the local music scene, among other Berkshire-ly pursuits.

PHIL HOLLAND

Phil Holland is a writer from Shaftsbury, Vermont. He’s the author of books on Vermont history and writes regularly for The Berkshire Edge and for this magazine.

E.M. MARCUS

E.M. Marcus is a filmmaker, writer, and artist based in the Berkshires.

DAVID EDGECOMB

David Edgecomb is a photographer and IT professional who lives in beautiful Becket. He is the founder and facilitator of Berkshire Photo Gathering, a group of photographers that meets monthly at the Berkshire South Regional Community Center in Great Barrington to network, share knowledge, and support one another. The Group welcomes new members. More at: berkshirephotogathering.com.

GABRIELLE K. MURPHY

Gabrielle K. Murphy is a Berkshiresbased photographer. While she enjoys shooting a wide variety of subjects, she is especially drawn to capturing the beauty of the natural world. She is a member of Berkshire Photo Gathering.

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PHOTO CREDITS: Cover: Adobe Stock, Irina84 P 1: Adobe Stock, Susan Pease/Danita Delimont; courtesy Norman Rockwell Museum, ©Hilary Knight; courtesy Simply Sweet; courtesy Jiminy Peak P 4: David Edgecomb P 5: Gabrielle K. Murphy P 6: David Scribner; courtesy Ski Butternut; Kelly Cade P 8: Kelly Cade P 12: courtesy Michael Wainwright Home P 14: courtesy Bard College at Simon’s Rock; courtesy Gedney Farm P 16: courtesy Colonel John Ashley House; courtesy Berkshire Mountain Distillers P 18: Gabrielle K. Murphy; courtesy The Egremont Inn P 20: courtesy Scoville Memorial Library, courtesy White Hart Inn P 21: courtesy The Boathouse P 22: Kelly Cade P 23: Kelly Cade P 24: courtesy Crandell Theatre P 25: courtesy Benninton Potters, Leslie M. Noyes P 26: Jim Woodward/design.399; Adobe Stock, EPasqualli P 28: courtesy The Clark Art Institute; courtesy Where’d You Get That?! P 30: courtesy Stockbridge Chamber of Commerce, Joe Laino P 31: David Edgecomb P 23: Kelly Cade; courtesy TurnPark Art Space P 34: courtesy Dory & Ginger; courtesy Bousquet Mountain P 35: courtesy CRUST P 37: Patrick Barry P 38: David Scribner; Gabrielle K. Murphy P 41: courtesy Karen Keenan’s Gifts & Home; courtesy Joe’s Diner P 42: Dave Simmons P 43: courtesy Hoosac Valley Train Ride P 44: David Edgecomb P 46: courtesy Mount Snow, Brett Miller P 47: courtesy Bousquet Mountain P 48: courtesy Jiminy Peak; courtesy Catamount P 49: courtesy Stump Sprouts; courtesy Salisbury Winter Sports Association P 50: Gabrielle K. Murphy P 51: Gabrielle K. Murphy P 52: Adobe Stock, vitaliy_ melnik P 53: Dreamtime, Sergey Novikov P 54: Phil Holland P 55: Phil Holland; courtesy Dot’s Restaurant P 56: courtesy Norman Rockwell Museum, ©Hilary Knight P 57: Tony Luong; courtesy The Clark Art Institute P 58: courtesy The Clark Art Institute; courtesy The Bennington Museum P 59: courtesy MASS MoCA; courtesy The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center P 60: courtesy Close Encounters With Music P 61: David Edgecomb; courtesy The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center P 62: courtesy The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center; courtesy Jacob’s Pillow P 63: courtesy The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center P 64: Dear Edith & Lily P 65: Elaina Mortali P 66: Elaina Mortali P 67: Elaina Mortali, Dear Edith & Lily P 68: Dear Edith & Lily P 69: Elaina Mortali; Christina Michelle Photography; Moments with Ada P 70: Love & Perry; Elaina Mortali P 71: courtesy Thistle & Thorn; Moments with Ada; Elaina Mortali P 72: Elaina Mortali; courtesy CRISP P 73: courtesy CRISP; courtesy Kate Baldwin Food P 74: courtesy Simply Sweet; Marion Attal P 75: Moments with Ada; Tricia McCormack Photography

Born from Connecticut-grown corn, rye and malted barley, our 4-Year Straight Bourbon Whiskey earned a double-gold medal (96 points) at the prestigious New York International Spirits Competition. It takes patience to wait for bourbon to properly mature. But, the reward is an exceptional, full-bodied spirit that we would match up against any bourbon in the country. Our Straight Bourbon presents smooth vanilla and butterscotch notes followed by hints of rich tobacco and toasted baking spice. The high-rye mash bill means you’ll enjoy a long, spicy finish with a subtle touch of citrus.

You might say that we’re aging gracefully.

great barrington

it’s happening here

As the Berkshires’ most popular tourist destination, Great Barrington—the “quietly cool town” (per Vogue)—draws visitors for shopping, restaurants, entertainment, year-round outdoor recreation, and . . . the recreational (and medical) cannabis dispensaries. Not all 7,100 residents are happy about the “Best Small Town in America” becoming “the pot capital of the Northeast.” Others point to the millions of dollars that have flowed into town coffers from a 3% municipal tax and a 3% community impact tax on cannabis sales.

EAT/DRINK | Hot spot Prairie Whale is the closest thing to a scene in the Berkshires. Slake your thirst with a rotating selection of beers and craft cocktails while waiting for a table (or eat at the bar); the small but superb dinner menu features local ingredients and endless creativity.

Railroad Street is the hub. There’s Mooncloud for artisanal cocktails and cheese boards; Baba Louie’s for family-style pizza; Bizen for authentic sushi; and SoCo for a double scoop of to-die-for ice cream any time of day. And now The Elm offers a contemporary take on classic New England cuisine at 20 Railroad Street

Over on Castle Street, Number 10 dishes out classic steakhouse fare; on Main, slip downstairs into cozy, brick-walled The Well; sample Thai food at Siam Square; slurp down ramen and other Asian dishes at STEAM Noodle Café; grab casual grub at GB Eats; or drink what’s on tap at Miller’s Pub

Inside the Barrington House building off Main, Mammo Lo’s cooks up BBQ to go; Taqueria Azteca is a one-woman operation (also sans seating) serving tacos and burritos; Fiesta Bar & Grill offers a

straightforward Mexican menu. (And shop for ingredients at El Punto De Encuentro Latin Market next door.)

During the day, you can grab breakfast, lunch, or coffee/tea drinks at twoflower café (temporarily closed) and Marjoram+Roux, both on Railroad, or Rubi’s Café, Fuel, and Patisserie Lenox on Main. ExtraSpecialTeas brews organic teas as well as “belonging” by employing adults with special needs (it now has a second location in Housatonic). And follow the smell of fresh baked croissants to Pixie Boulangerie near the even newer Flying Church Coffee, inhabiting the cute yellow shop. Besides stocking your larder, The Berkshire Food Co-op on Bridge Street serves sandwiches and such at its café; Guido’s on Route 7 offers grab-n-go meals until it’s café opens.

Rubiner’s specializes in “local foods from around the world,” including cheese,

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Clockwise from top left: Fuff Alpaca, Butternut, Marjoram+Roux.

charcuterie, and grocery items plus natural wines. Family-owned Domaney’s has an extensive selection of wine and spirits; newly opened Départ on Railroad stocks a more curated selection of independent and women-owned labels. Third-generation

Gorham & Norton has a daily sandwich special in addition to being a grocery and wine shop.

Plenty of options lie on the outskirts. Heading south on Main, Aroma makes Indian food for take-out; Bizalion’s has

European-style sandwiches and salads for lunch. Honorable mentions: Bogies and Fiddleheads Grille.

Drive north on Stockbridge Road for mole and margaritas at Xicohténcatl, in the festive yellow house, or tasty fish tacos at Agave’s; next door you’ll find Aegean Breeze (Greek), Naji’s (Mediterranean), and Rio Café (breakfast and lunch). Farm Country Soup makes more than just delicious soups; it also offers a rotating selection of salads, sandwiches, and entrées for takeout. And Big Elm Taproom has just opened in the same center. Both cafeADAM (upscale and up-to-date dining) and Barrington Brewery and Restaurant (robust and really good) are in Jenifer Commons across the road.

Asian food awaits at Shiro Kitchen & Asian Market and The East, as well as Koi on State Road. The Marketplace Kitchen Table features fresh sandwiches and salads for take-out or on-site dining. The Marketplace Specialty Foods sells its own prepared food and a selection of local goods.

Head to Housatonic for the inimitable sourdough bread and take-away pizzas at Berkshire Mountain Bakery (profiled on

Town Hall

Chopped!). Stop by Taft Farms for specialty sandwiches, housemade pies.

To the east, the village of New Marlborough is a scenic country-road-trip away and worth it to dine (or recline) at the exquisite Old Inn on the Green, and/or to have brunch at its offshoot, The Southfield Store Gedney Farm is another tuckedaway secret, offering chef-created food at Gedney Kitchen, as well as lodging with a modern farmhouse aesthetic. Cantina 229 is renowned for its daily New American menu and rustic environs.

For cannabis, choose among Theory Wellness, the first of the bunch, Farnsworth Fine Cannabis, Calyx, Great Barrington Dispensary, Rebelle, and newcomer Valkyrie (smack dab across from Theory, bringing it full circle).

SHOP | Cruise Railroad Street for an eclectic mix of owner-run shops. Robert Lloyd Gallery specializes in vintage barware along with original oil-on-canvas illustration art—the artist-owner has amassed the largest collection of paintings done for Guinness from the 1930s. Griffin succeeds

in pushing the bounds of style with new and vintage fashion and curated home goods; Twigs deals in cool, wearable women’s clothing and accessories; home love stocks home décor and gifts on three floors; Artemesia focuses on hand-crafted clothes of natural fibers; and artist-run Railroad Street Collective showcases locally made items, as does Hart, a textile studio creating art and objects for the home (relocated from its former Bridge St. spot). Trends are on tap at GB9, eclectic apparel and jewelry at Byzantium, gems and metaphysical giftware at Crystal Essence

Karen Allen Fiber Arts offers colorful clothing, scents, and bags from independent producers, plus her own line of woven items produced right upstairs. Familiar Trees sells books primarily focused on art, design, photography, and architecture, plus art and decorative objects. Rob’s Records features vintage and new vinyl as well as audio equipment. Makers relish the materials at JWS Art Supply

On Main, Millerton-based Westerlind peddles uber-stylish apparel, home furnishings, and outdoor gear. Robin’s

Candy has an old-school vibe, with sweets for every age. HappyPlace Berkshires makes and sells original 413-branded goods. Lexicon Vibes is an adventure in music memorabilia, featuring a mix of vinyl, books, posters, and a great old juke box. TP Saddleblanket is the retail store for distinctive Tasha Polizzi western wear and décor. Distinctive eyewear is on display at Cyril & Dayne. Next door to Main Street Clothing, Fluff Alpaca, a family-owned business born organically from the family’s Hudson Valley alpaca farm, offers ecofriendly apparel, accessories, and gifts. Tom’s Toys and Matrushka Toys & Gifts proffer lots of stuff for kids. Barrington Outfitters sells sportswear and outdoor furniture.

In The Flying Church, Gallery SGD features prints, cards, and books by photographer Stephen Donaldson and exhibits of photography in other styles. Across the street, there’s Lennox Jewelers, Library Skate Shop (for skateboarding gear), and the newly opened Green Branch Urban Farm, which makes and sells salves, body oils, tinctures, and other healthboosting items.

Books new and old can be found at The Bookloft (on State Road) and Yellow House Books (on Main), respectively. For thrift-store finds, climb the stairs to the Soho Loft (above the bookstore), stop by Gold Digger (in the back of Main), or follow the locals to Goodwill or Catwalk

Great Barrington is a haven for home furnishing shops. Asia Barong is the largest Asian art gallery in America, with more than 25,000 pieces in stock. Mundy’s Asia Galleries is chock full of Japanese antiques and collectibles handpicked by the owner (who splits his time

between Japan and the Berkshires).

Downtown, Samantha Gale Designs celebrates vintage farmhouse style. Michael Wainwright, local tabletop designer now grown into a national brand, has opened a second retail outlet in the back of Main; the original is south of town on Route 7.

Just off Main is the GB outpost of Hammertown, known for its high-end furnishings and textiles.

For antiques, The Emporium Antiques & Art Center is home to a collection of dealers selling art glass, estate jewelry, fine art, and mid-century finds. The Great Barrington Antiques Center is a 5,000-square-foot, multidealer shop that spans styles and budgets. Elise Abrams Antiques, the Antiques Center . . . And All That Jazz, Chelsea & Co. Antiques & Decorative Arts, and The Little Store are still other options. Evergreen specializes in an extensive selection of handcrafted pottery, lighting, wearable art, and more.

Are you contemplating a makeover? Professionals are standing by. Interior design studios are prominent in the downtown landscape. William Caligari

Michael Wainwright Home

Interiors, a full-scope design studio next to the E. Caligari & Son showroom, services clients in the Berkshires and beyond. (Linen and Out of Hand are in the same shopping center.) Sue Schwarz operates her design studio Gallery 315 Home from a new office in Saint James Place. British-born fabric guru Jennifer Owen works out of her eponymous design studio on Railroad Street, and Jess Cooney has a studio on State Road (by appointment only). Brand-new Scout House, brainchild of filmmaker Bobby Houston, is a boutique home design shop that doubles as designer Jennifer Bianco’s studio. Wingate, opened in 1998 just north of town on Route 7, has grown to become one of the biggest home furnishings and design showrooms in the Berkshires and now offers move-inready homes.

JRC Remodeling has opened on Bridge Street. Design-build firm bramble! is on Stockbridge Rd. Destination Design Center on South Hillside Avenue designs

and installs kitchens, baths, cabinets, and window treatments. Find new fixtures for your kitchen and bath at Waterware on Crissey Road just north of town and at S & A Showplace at 40 Maple Drive just southwest of town. Back in town, Carr Hardware is your headquarters for homerepair projects and seasonal supplies.

And Berkshire Bike & Board is your friendly GB snow-sports base, with snowshoes rounding out the offerings.

SEE | Great Barrington is the birthplace of civil rights leader W.E.B. Du Bois; visitors are invited to take the outdoor interpretive trail at his boyhood homesite on Route 23.

The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center anchors the downtown cultural district, putting on a full schedule of music, theater, films, and more. Saint James Place, a deconsecrated church-turnedperformance-space, hosts concerts and

community events (and weddings). The Triplex Cinema has grown from three screens into four.

Original art can be found at Vault Gallery, Carrie Chen Gallery (moved from Railroad to the third floor of The Barrington B&B on Main, which Chen also owns), Bernay Fine Art, and Lauren Clark Fine Art, all of which represent high-quality paintings, sculptures, and works in other media from local and international artists. Visit Lisa Vollmer Studio & Gallery to see the artist’s own (arresting) photography (by appointment only).

The Guthrie Center (named for Arlo) holds weekly hootenannies. Bard College at Simon’s Rock, a liberal arts “early college,” is home to Daniel Arts Center, a sleek venue for visual and performance art shows.

The recently expanded Housatonic River Walk, a national recreation trail, provides a nice respite from window shopping; pick it up at the north end of town. The Railroad Street Youth Project Center on Bridge Street has public basketball courts and a skateboard and BMX park, complete with empty swimming pool, and a baseball field that you can use when there’s no game in play. Little ones can run off steam at Giggle Park, behind the Town Hall.

STAY | The Barrington is a modern bed and breakfast right in town with seven luxury suites, and the Wainwright Inn is within walking distance. Granville House is a lovingly restored B&B in a residential neighborhood on Division St., next to the Guthrie Center. The Dutchcolonial Thornewood Inn sits at a fork on Stockbridge Rd., whereas The Windflower Inn is on Route 23 towards Egremont. (And don’t forget about The Old Inn on the Green and Gedney Farm, in bucolic New Marlborough.)

From top: Daniel Arts Center on the campus of Bard College at Simon’s Rock, Gedney Farm.

Budget options abound. Monument Mountain Hotel, Lantern House Motel, and East Rock Inn (opening soon) are local alternatives to Holiday Inn Express, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott, and Quality Inn—all conveniently located near town. The retro-chic Briarcliff Motel (owned by The Red Lion Inn) is across from Monument Mountain. And Fairview Hospital is there when/if you need worldclass medical care.

sheffield

rural and refined

Sheffield is not only the oldest town in the Berkshires (dating back to 1725), it has the highest concentration of working farms, including one of the largest organic dairy farms (500 cows!) in the country. How it came to also be the antiques capital of the county is a mystery, but who cares! The town, situated just north of the Connecticut border in the Housatonic River Valley, has an astonishing number of quality shops (and nary a single grocery store). It boasts other attractions, too.

EAT/DRINK | Many visitors head straight to The Marketplace Café on Elm Court in the center of town for indoor dining and takeout. The chef-owners created a popular catering business in 1993—the first such farm-to-table enterprise in the Berkshires—and have branched out into four additional “retail” locations, each with its own style (the others are in Pittsfield and Great Barrington). For dinner, longstanding The Bridge Restaurant has changed ownership and is now The Frog, serving pub fare.

Two shops started by young entrepreneurs—Roberto’s Pizza and Bakin’ Bakery—opened right next to each other on Main Street.

Sheffield is also home to Big Elm Brewing, the new Massachusetts branch of Sunset Meadows Vineyards, and Berkshire Mountain Distillers, the county’s first legit distillery since prohibition. Stop by any of

these visitor-friendly places for a tasting.

The Stagecoach Tavern got its start in an earlier age; go for food and drink and also jazz and events. It’s part of the Race Brook Lodge cluster of buildings in a woodsy setting off Route 41.

SHOP | A variety of antiques shops are conveniently located along Route 7 (aka Antique Alley); traveling south from Great Barrington, keep your eyes peeled on either side for “open” signs at (among others) Painted Porch Antiques, Susan Silver Antiques, Linda Rosen Antiques, Samuel Herrup Antiques, and Mix on Main (with apologies to those not mentioned due to space constraints). Loring Gallery traffics in fine (expensive) art.

If you like your music with strings attached, visit the Magic Fluke for handmade ukuleles, banjos, violins, and more. The shop is open for visitors (call for hours), and orders are always accepted by phone and online. In business since 1946, family-owned Sheffield Pottery sells its own ceramics, as well as all the supplies and materials for home potters.

Pot-ters of a different ilk have their own agenda: Sheffield is the site of the state’s first licensed outdoor cannabis growing facility, Nova Farms, “boasting 80,000 square feet of sun-grown, organic cannabis canopy,” according to the company. And The Pass, a retail and cultivation facility owned by Chris

SEE | Part of the town lies along Route 7, and the charming village of Ashley Falls is just a few miles to the southwest. The Colonel John Ashley House , where the enslaved Mum Bett (later Elizabeth Freeman) lived before suing for and winning her freedom in 1781, is a stop on the Upper Housatonic Valley African American Heritage Trail. The grounds of the Ashley House are open now, but the house itself is not.

The original (historical) iteration was destroyed by fire, but the Upper Sheffield Bridge (aka Old Covered Bridge) was rebuilt in 1999. There’s ample parking so you can stroll across it to a lovely park to a lovely park.

There’s usually something going on at Dewey Memorial Hall (circa 1887), an impressive fieldstone and marble structure on the Sheffield green. The Hall’s woodpaneled interior and soaring beamed ceiling is a popular venue for lectures, art shows, concerts, and contra dances.

STAY | The aforementioned Race Brook Lodge has modernized rooms in barns and cottages, all connected by footpath. A few miles down Route 41 lies Sheffield Lodge, a rustic bed and breakfast.

Weld (of Berkshire Mountain Distillers fame), is open daily. In Sheffield, the times, they have a-changed!

From left: Colonel John Ashley House, Berkshire Mountain Distillers.

egremont

well-preserved and well worth a visit

SHOP | Families have been coming to Kenver for snow sports gear and garb for over 60 years, and in 2014 the handsome, weathered-brick emporium began proffering accessories for the home and a special room devoted to pets.

If quilting is your “sport” of choice, you’re in luck: Brookside Quilts, located at the junction of Route 23 and Sheffield Rd., sells new and vintage quilts along with all the supplies you need (sewing machines, threads, rotary cutters, and the like) to DIY.

You’ll find an eclectic array of candles, decorations, cards, wrapping materials, and gifts of all kinds at The Shop by Only in My Dreams Events, a wedding and event planning service. And it’s worth browsing the holiday annex in the back, which is decorated to the hilt and features themed board games and other festive kitsch.

Situated on the main route and bearing the “Welcome to Massachusetts” sign, Egremont is, for many travelers, a first glimpse of Berkshire County. It was incorporated in 1775— the same year General Knox passed through on his way to deliver artillery to Boston—but dates to the original treaties signed along the Indian Line in the 1730’s. Thanks to another General (Hugh Smiley), creator of the Old Egremont Society, the buildings and culture have survived intact. By the 1930s, Egremont had become a popular motorcar destination for being “the real New England.” And while today’s automobiles look a lot different, the view from them is much the same.

EAT/DRINK | Egremont remains a go-to destination for locals and visitors alike. Long-running establishments include the perennially popular Old Mill (opened in 1978), drawing devoted fans to its circa-1797 grist mill building and familiar menu, while John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant (1990) gets raves for its upscale farm-fresh cooking in a historic home.

Mom’s Country Café is a bustling diner that’s been dishing out phenomenal breakfast and lunch fare for over 30 years.

The adjacent Egremont Market makes a great sandwich to go—and stocks basics for your rental.

In 2016, Egremont made headlines when the close-knit Keene family from New York City restored a dilapidated old barn along Route 23, creating The Barn at the Egremont Village Inn, which rapidly became a renowned venue for dinner, drinks, and live music and comedy performances (plus karaoke). More recently, co-owners Nick Keene and Jenny Rubin opened Sara’s Place (named for Keene’s mother, who died in 2021) in the Inn, serving coffee, breakfast, and lunch Wednesdays through Sundays.

Be sure to check out the curated selection of “real wines for the people” and work from local artists at the South Egremont Spirit Shoppe, in an updated building that once housed a manufacturer of axles for horse-drawn carriages. Then climb the stairs from the parking lot to Devine, the first (and only) cannabis shop in Egremont.

Over in North Egremont, regulars flock to the Old Egremont Country Store for daily lunch specials from the deli. It also stocks a variety of locally made products, from maple syrup to books by local authors as well as artwork.

The owners of 41 Main Antiques (and Mix on Main, in Sheffield) specialize in 20th-century furnishings and accessories but have an eye for pieces and collectibles from all periods. For now the shop is open by appointment only. Acorn: A Brooklyn Toy Shop, launched in 2004, has recently landed in Egremont. The cheery spot stocks handcrafted toys, artwork, and apparel for children in a lovely restored home.

STAY | Why not book one of seven comfy rooms—some pet-friendly—at The Egremont Village Inn, so you can “wind down your day and party all night in a restored barn while eating perfect pub food, sipping amazing local drinks, and listening to great Berkshire-based and national touring artists performing a few feet away”? (Sold!) The original one-room house was built before the Revolutionary War and over time grew in stature and size until it began operating as a guest house in the 1940s. History sleeps here.

The Inn at Sweet Water Farm may have a Great Barrington mailing address (and GPS locale), but is in the nationally registered historic village of North Egremont, some four miles from the center of GB. “It’s a country charm thing . . . worth the confusion.” The B&B serves homemade breakfast from 8:30 a.m. to the leisurely hour of 11 a.m.—and is open to non-staying guests with advance reservation. While not an active farm, there is a gaggle of hens that lay the eggs that you get to eat.

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From left: Baldwin Hill Elm, The Egremont Village Inn.

salisbury, connecticut

As the northwesternmost town in Connecticut, Salisbury is at the intersection of Litchfield County, the Berkshires, and New York State (you can snap a photo of the CT-MA-NY tri-state marker at the northwest corner of town). It’s home to two prep schools, but also wild and mountainous black bear habitat. Salisbury has a small-town feel, with full-time and part-time residents whose lives often take them into Manhattan, just a little over two hours by car. It is also reachable by rail from Wassaic, only 20 minutes away. Who, upon seeing a little place with a “For Sale” sign on a well-kept lawn, wouldn’t feel a little tug?

EAT/DRINK | Salisbury is a welcoming town, whether or not you own real estate there. It thrives on the mixture of people it attracts, from celebrities (Meryl Streep

has lived there for years) to the shaggy hikers who come down a half a mile off the Appalachian Trail to pick up supplies at LaBonne’s Market.

Staying on Main Street, Sweet William’s Bakery is famous for pies, pastries, and cookies along with killer matcha and chai lattés, while Neo Restaurant & Bar is a newish spot for Italian-inspired cuisine in an airy setting.

People drive from all over to dine at The White Hart Inn, a striking 1806 updated farmhouse overlooking the village green. The inn houses three dining rooms, a tap room with a full-service bar, two outdoor dining patios, and a large front porch offering drink service. If all that isn’t enough, Provisions is a casual café for breakfast and lunch. All serve “elevated British-inspired comfort food” that highlights

the (quiet) corner pocket

seasonal ingredients sourced from nearby farms. The food is both exotic and local— a good reflection of the town itself.

To the southwest, in the Lakeville section of town, lie art galleries, a gas station (good to know), The Hotchkiss School, one of the premier independent boarding schools in the country, and a surprising number of good restaurants for such a small community, including The Boathouse, Black Rabbit Bar & Grille, Mizza’s, Deano’s (purported to have the best New York-style pizza for miles around), and Picante’s South West Mexican Grill The Woodlands offers fine dining in a comfortable setting.

SHOP | Even if you can’t buy a house here, you can still freshen up your existing abode. Discriminating taste is the common thread for the many home-good purveyors in town. Joie Maison, Passports Antiques, Black Squirrel Antiques, Honeychurch Home, and Thornhill Flower & Garden Shop make Salisbury a worthwhile shopping destination.

The Salisbury General Store (on Main) doubles as gift shop and the town’s pharmacy. Bibliophiles have two excellent reasons to visit here too: Joie de Livres, a rare book and art gallery, and browserfriendly Johnnycake Books, both of which specialize in collectible volumes.

SEE | The Salisbury Association holds exhibits and programs at the Academy Building, erected in 1833 as a private school. Established in 1803, the Scoville Memorial Library is the nation’s first publicly funded library. Both lie steps apart on Main Street.

STAY | The aforementioned White Hart Inn has 16 guest rooms so you can roll right into bed after a scrumptious meal on the property. Situated at church-steeple level, the Earl Grey B&B inhabits the historic Chittenden House, offering two spacious accommodations amidst extensive gardens and old specimen trees. Nearby Lakeville has two more options for a Litchfield stay: Wake Robin Inn, a hilltop perch with 28 rooms, and the more corporate Interlaken Inn

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From top: Scoville Memorial Library, White Hart Inn.

hillsdale, new york

where New York meets the Berkshires

and an extensive cookbook selection, abundant cookware, and gadgets galore. Right next door, Tiny Hearts Farm, which organically farms 22 acres in Copake, sells its own cut flowers for pick-up or delivery in the area.

In hindsight Passiflora was a veritable pioneer, hanging out a lonely shingle in 2009 and billing itself as “an eclectic mix of all things contemporary, quirky, and chic” (primarily housewares and personal care products, with an emphasis on local artisans); it’s still going strong.

Heading east on Route 23 from the Taconic through Hillsdale towards Great Barrington is a well-worn path for many visitors to the Berkshires. Nowadays, though, the traffic goes both ways, as Hillsdale has become a destination that Berkshire residents and visitors alike are drawn to. Indeed, the formerly sleepy farming town is now a secondhome magnet with a vibrant artistic and commercial culture.

EAT/DRINK | The Hillsdale House, right in the center of things, was revitalized after a makeover and is open for both takeout and indoor/outdoor dining. The historical restaurant, a piece of Columbia County since 1797, was first a stagecoach stop, post office, and a meeting place for revolutionary politicians. These days the tavern serves up a bevy of burgers, wood-fire pizza, and craft beers along with up-to-date small plates and vegan fare.

A stone’s throw away, in a lovingly restored 1851 building, Roe Jan Brewing Company produces a rotating selection of beers that you can sample, purchase to go (in cans or growlers), or enjoy with elevated pub fare in the handsome eatery, and while listening to local talent at weekly concerts. Beloved O’s Hillsdale Diner has changed hands and is now Sweet Peas Country Diner. And comfort-food shop Cook & Larder has opened in the former Crossroads location for sweet and savory prepared foods and grab-and-go items.

The Little Cat Lodge (formerly Swisse Hutte) is under new ownership and has a spiffy new look. Sip craft cocktails at the tavern or dine on alpine fare on the fourseason terrace.

Or stock up on libations at Hillsdale Fine Wine & Spirits, tucked behind the local IGA

Traveling from the Taconic, you have your choice of two pit stops on Route 23 just east of Craryville: Random Harvest is a worker-owned neighborhood market, café, and community space that offers food and goods sourced directly from more than 70 local producers. In the former (and longtime favorite) Dutch Treat, Zinnia’s Diner has quickly become a destination spot for its inventive rendition of a “New England fish fry, Hudson Valley style,” as well as the location’s retro-meets-modern vibe.

SHOP | Interior designer Matthew White renovated an 1855 commercial building on the village square into what is now the Hillsdale General Store, with an emphasis on “old-style new” home goods and “useful and beautiful things for country life”—and a predilection for tureens and other vintage finds. White is largely credited with putting the historic hamlet on the map when he opened the shop back in 2011, garnering raves and earning himself a reputation as a certified style maven.

He then expanded his empire with HGS Chef, which inhabits a can’t-miss pink house across Route 23 and offers cooking classes

And whatever your home needs may be, there’s a Herrington in Hillsdale who can help. For your construction and renovation supplies, visit Ed Herrington, Inc., just west of the intersection of Routes 7 and 23, and their Hillsdale Tile Design Center just east of it. Then, when construction is done, C. Herrington Home + Design, right at the intersection, with a beautiful retail shop and professional design services, can turn that house into the home of your dreams.

SEE | Rodger’s Book Barn, off the beaten track but well worth the ramble, has over 20,000 “old and unusual” books on its wellorganized shelves. East of town on Route 23, Berkshire Pottery has been crafting handmade wares in a 19th century Dutch barn. Their pottery combines old-world craftsmanship with modern practicality.

Roeliff Jansen Park, located one-half mile south of the town center on Route 22, offers multiple (gentle) walking trails on a 300-acre farm with four-season views; it’s a favorite among dog walkers.

STAY | In addition to Little Cat Lodge, which has 14 rooms (including two suites), The Hillsdale House has three accommo dations on the second floor. And though the pandemic forced the owners of landmarked The Washington House to cease operating the restaurant and tavern (after a 48-yearrun), they have started offering five units via Airbnb for in-hamlet lodging.

For two takes on economy roadside motels, there’s the Holiday House Motel along Route 23, close to Catamount, or newly restored The Alander, in nearby Copake, for swankier sleeping arrangements.

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From left: Passiflora and The Hillsdale House.

Located on Main Street in Chatham, N.Y., the single-screen Crandell Theatre lives up to its motto: Small Town. Big Movies. It has also managed to preserve its historic charm— as the oldest of its kind in Columbia County—while becoming a progressive center for mainstream and indie screenings, including as host of the nationally renowned FilmColumbia festival. Like many small-town venues, the Crandell has not returned to its pre-pandemic 365-day showings, but there’s plenty to keep you coming back to this palatial spot—and picturesque village. Check crandelltheatre.com for film times.

southern vermont

from the Berkshires to the Greens

Known as “the ‘Shires,” southern Vermont extends from the MassachusettsVermont state line in Pownal to Manchester, which was once a summer retreat but is now a four-season leisure and shopping destination. The central hub is Bennington, with its walkable downtown filled with shops, restaurants, galleries, and historic architecture (and old-fashioned streetlights). But its location within the depths of the Green Mountain Forest Reserve makes this area an outdoor recreational paradise— hiking, snowshoeing, downhill and crosscountry skiing, you name it. (See page 48 for ski resorts in the area.) Oh, and did we mention there are covered bridges?

EAT/DRINK | Calling all locavores: Southern Vermont is crawling with small, family farms and restaurants that proudly herald the provenance of the foods on their seasonal menus.

There are plenty of places to slake your thirst in bustling Bennington. After a major downtown redevelopment, a new brewpub, Farm Road Brewing, now occupies one of the corners of the town’s central crossroads, joining Madison Brewing Company, The Dutchman’s Tavern, 421 Craft Bar & Kitchen, and The Miller’s Toll Dinner Club & Lounge in serving up craft beer and cocktails, plus tasty vittles in handsome settings. The Village Garage Distillery is another new arrival on the eating and

drinking scene, as is Island Flavor, which has authentic Jamaican takeout. The Blue Benn Diner has reopened under new owners: this classic 1940s railcar diner is great for breakfast and lunch and has a menu for all tastes. The Elm Street Market is the place for “serious sandwiches, salads, and more.”

For lunch, Sunday brunch, or dinner, the Mt. Anthony Country Club offers locally sourced seasonal dishes and beautiful views. More views (and steakhouse fare) can be had from The Publyk House. At the bottom of the hill in the village of North Bennington, The Roasted Bean is a haven for a good cup of coffee and, next door, The Pangaea Lounge offers terrace dining overlooking a millpond. Or rub elbows with locals at Kevin’s Sports Pub & Restaurant

In Manchester, a range of restaurants cater to visitors and locals , from the tavernstyle Firefly (choice of locals) to tonier establishments like Social House on Depot Road Street; Mistral’s, located at the last (or first, depending on which direction you are traveling) toll gate in Vermont; and The Copper Grouse, inside the Taconic Hotel.

SHOP | In the 19th century, Bennington emerged as an important and innovative industrial center, a heritage it still proudly continues. Timber frames, airplane components, snowshoes, and jewelry along with stoneware from famous Bennington

Potters are among the many products manufactured here. The Potters’ funkyelegant retail store is located right next to where its wares are made. The physical store is closed at present, but it has a robust online store.

Fiddlehead at Four Corners sells artisanal wares. Fine Vermont jewelry and crafts are for sale at Hawkins House on North Street in Bennington. Catamount Glass on County Street is a glass factory with a retail shop (and an on-site restaurant called Tap House).

Downtown Bennington has its own bragging rights: Jay’s Art Shop is the largest independently owned art supply store in the state; the recently relocated Bennington Bookshop is the state’s oldest independent bookstore. Quilters will not want to pass up The Scarlet Creation for supplies and classes. W. Collective is a relatively new boutique selling gifts and home goods.

Bringing You Vermont is stocked with all things Green Mountain State (think maple syrup). Antiques are for sale at Main Street Antiques, The Owl’s Nest, Covered Bridge Antiques, and Monument Vintage. Got a sweet tooth? There’s The Village Chocolate Shop or Vermont Confectionery, both on Main Street.

In North Bennington, stop by The Alpaca Shack for hand-knit apparel and accessories—and meet the cute critters that produce the yarn. Or drive south on Route 7

From left: Bennington Potters, Village Garage Distillery.

to Apple Barn & Country Bake Shop, which will be open through the holidays this year.

If you’re “from away” and are thinking of buying and running a Vermont country store like the wonderful 200-year-old Dorset Union Store (and bakery) on the green, read Ellen Stimson’s Mud Season first; she bought and ran that very store and lived to write (and laugh) about it.

Charles F. Orvis got it started in 1856 when he opened a store dedicated to fly-fishing and accessories for the great outdoors. The flagship location is still in Manchester, and it has the distinction of being the oldest still-operating mail-order business in America. Manchester Designer Outlets is home to many leading clothing brands, whose easy-to-get-to stores make bargain-hunting a pleasure. For books and gifts, there’s the well-stocked Northshire Bookstore in the center of town, which hosts frequent readings by leading writers. There are also shops for cooks, oenophiles, art-lovers, antique-hunters, and sports enthusiasts of every stripe.

SEE | The Bennington Battle Monument prevails over the landscape from its perch in Old Bennington (though the observation level is closed during winter). The Bennington Museum (closed JanuaryMarch) is home to the largest exhibit of

paintings by Grandma Moses (née Anna Maria Robertson) in the world. If you bring children, be sure to take them into the transplanted schoolhouse where the artist learned her ABCs in the 1860s; it’s meant to be played in as well as learned from.

The stunning, white Georgian buildings of Bennington College frame a breathtaking vista of Mount Anthony—no wonder it’s called The End of the World. The College’s evening literary programming is open to the public, while across the street the Prospect Street Writers House holds monthly readings by its artists in residence. The Vermont Arts Exchange has resumed its public events, as has the Oldcastle Theater Company, now in its own building, Bennington Performing Arts Center, near the center of town.

The fanciful Park-McCullough Historic Governor’s Mansion in North Bennington was built in 1865 with money made in California and Panama by an attorney who had grown up in the modest town of Woodford, just east of Bennington. The trails in the adjacent McCullough Woods are a popular spot for walking. The mansion’s grounds are open daily; “The Big House” is open for self-guided tours Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays through the holidays, when it is fittingly bedecked (and then it goes dark until spring).

Robert Todd Lincoln’s historic home, Hildene, overlooks the Valley of Vermont. The house is closed for winter but 12 miles of trails are open for skiing and snowshoeing (with rentals).

The Dorset Theatre Festival has, over the past decade, become a national incubator for new playwrights; its renovated playhouse incorporates three original barns, which predate the Revolutionary War.

The Southern Vermont Arts Center comprises a state-of-the-art museum and the largest sculpture garden in the state, plus a permanent collection of 19th and 20th century works. The American Museum of Fly Fishing displays an impressive number (as in thousands) of flies, rods, and reels to inspire pulling on waders and casting off.

Kids of all ages will appreciate the Dollhouse and Toy Museum and its vast collection of miniature dwellings plus trains and trucks.

STAY | If you make Bennington your headquarters, you can choose among The Four Chimneys Inn, a stately bed and breakfast; South Shire Inn, “a little hotel” in an 1887 Victorian estate; quaint and quiet Paradise Inn (with its own pickleball courts); and the more affordable Bennington Motor Inn—all within walking distance of the down town scene. There’s also a Hampton Inn in Hannaford Square and retro-chic Knotty Pines Motel.

Arlington, just above Shaftsbury on Route 7A, is home to the woodsy West Mountain Inn, the stately Arlington Inn, and Rockwell’s Retreat; the painter Norman Rockwell lived and worked in a house and studio near a covered bridge over the Battenkill before moving south to Stockbridge in the ’50s.

Hotels, inns, and B&Bs abound in Manchester, led by the likes of Mt. Equinox Resort, The Inn at Manchester, and The Reluctant Panther Inn. Some, like the Wilburton Inn and the Barnstead Inn, also host musical events. Kimpton Taconic is the area’s newest boutique hotel.

Neighboring Sunderland—just north of Arlington and south of Manchester—offers two Battenkill-side accommodations: The 50-acre Hill Farm has nature trails, cuddly animals, and killer views; and Ira Allen House has antique-filled rooms in the namesake’s historic home.

In the fateful summer of 1776, the idea of Vermont as an independent republic was born in Cephas Kent’s tavern. In today’s Dorset, the aura of the 18th century lingers. The tavern is no more, but the Dorset Inn has dominated the town green since 1796.

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The Bennington Museum (top), Bennington Battle Monument (bottom).

williamstown a high-caliber hamlet

From left: The Clark

As one of America’s first university townships, Williamstown—home to Williams College, a premier liberal arts institution and the town’s largest employer —dates to 1791 (as does the school). You don’t have to have a connection to Williams to enjoy what the town (or the college) has to offer—namely scenic beauty, world-class culture, outdoor recreation, charming accommodations, and night life. On Spring Street, the commercial center, you’ll find galleries, clothing stores, coffee shops with fast internet connections, and restaurants that cater to the tastes of students, locals, and visitors alike. But be sure to explore the surrounding area, too, while you are in this northernmost Berkshire province.

EAT/DRINK | Spring Street is where it’s at: Spring Street Market & Café and Pappa Charlie’s Deli are standbys for lunch. There’s Indian cuisine at Spice Root, Thai and Japanese at Blue Mango next door, Turkish at Pera Mediterranean Bistro, and brick-oven pizza at Ramunto’s. Dive into Spoon for a refreshing frozen yogurt, gelato, or sorbet, or an ice cream cone at Lickety Split. Coffee, tea, and baked goods can be found at Tunnel City Coffee across the street. Unlimited Nutrition specializes in protein shakes and flavored teas, and, at the foot of the street, the newly built The Williams Inn offers dining in its Barn Kitchen & Bar.

On nearby Water Street, enjoy the Neapolitan pies from Hot Tomatoes

Opposite page: “Eyes” by Louise Bourgeois at Williams College Museum of Art.

Gramercy Bistro has relocated to Water Street from MASS MoCA; The Water Street Grill serves craft beers on tap, casual food, and a warm ambience. Just north of town, Chef’s Hat is an old time, diner-style breakfast and lunch spot.

Head south of town on Route 7 for other options: There’s Mezze Bistro & Bar for craft cocktails and farm-to-table food; ‘6 House Pub, situated in a historic barn on a 17-acre property; Coyote Flaco, for homestyle Mexican food; and A-Frame Bakery, offering scratch-baked goods.

For Chinese fare, Chopsticks is just east of town on Route 2. Right next door is Korean Garden. (Tip: get the hot stone bibimbap.) If you’re cooking for yourself, stock up at Wild Oats on the same stretch of road.

SHOP | Again on Spring Street, non-profit ABC Clothing Pop-up Shop sells secondhand clothing to support programs for youth and families at risk. Nature’s Closet has a wide selection of outdoor gear and is home to the popular Smoothie Spot Pick up a book at the light-filled Williams Bookstore or at Chapter Two Books, a “lightly, slightly” used bookstore that benefits the town’s library. Where’d You Get That?! and Purple Dragon Games are must-sees for games and more.

If you have recreational cannabis needs, Silver Therapeutics is a mile east of downtown. Or head to The Spirit Shop, on Cole Avenue, for wine and craft beers.

SEE | Founded in 1955 and substantially updated in 2014, The Clark Art Institute is a world-renowned public art museum with an extensive permanent collection, groundbreaking special exhibitions, and striking architecture by Pritzker Prizewinning architect Tadao Ando. Advanced, timed-visit tickets are highly recommended. The Clark campus also boasts 140 acres of lawns, meadows, and walking trails that during snow season are ideal for snowshoeing; stop by the equipment rack to borrow a pair (while supplies last).

The galleries of the Williams College Museum of Art are filled with 15,000 dynamic works and free to the public The Greylock Gallery specializes in contemporary American landscapes by emerging and established artists.

Independently owned Images Cinema on Spring Street presents a wide range of independent, foreign, and classic films.

STAY | The Williams Inn is strategically located for a walkable stay in town, with 64 well-appointed rooms. More in-town lodgings include Cozy Corner Hotel, Maple Terrace Motel, and Northside Motel. Other options include The 1896 House Country Inn, Fairfield Inn & Suites, The Guest House at Field Farm (a midcentury Bauhaus design on 315 acres maintained by The Trustees), River Bend Farm (in the historic home of a founder of Williamstown), and the more affordable Williamstown Motel

Art Institute, Where’d You Get That?!

stockbridge

postcard-perfect New England town

vinyl (and CDs!), signage, and clothing at Seven Arts Gift Shop Prado De Lana Sheep Farm Yarn and Wool is a family-run sheep farm specializing in wool products from its own flock. And Pittsfield’s Township Four creates beautiful floral arrangements and proffers a curated selection of plants and gifts.

Lastly, see the unique array of trinkets at Heirlooms Jewelry, in the same location for over a half century.

SEE | When the railroad arrived in 1850, so did the wealthy summer folk. Artists and writers came too, among them Daniel Chester French, sculptor of the Lincoln statue at the Lincoln Memorial. French’s summer home and studio, Chesterwood, is open to the public.

If Stockbridge seems strangely familiar, that’s thanks to Norman Rockwell, who spent his last 25 years living and working right in the heart of town. The beloved painter of small-town American life created some of his most visionary and socially engaged work here. At his death, he bequeathed his studio, archive, and many paintings to what became the Norman Rockwell Museum, on 36 acres outside the town center.

EAT/DRINK | Everyone is welcome to occupy the classic rockers on the front porch of the venerable The Red Lion Inn (a favorite Rockwell subject), where you can order a craft cocktail while soaking up the view. Or, savor a meal at the formal Main Dining Room (reservations recommended) or more casual Tavern. Downstairs, The Lion’s Den has reopened post-renovation.

Main Street Café is a hop-step from the Inn for breakfast and lunch, or head across the street to The Lost Lamb, “a French-style patisserie and snackerie” that offers daily soups, salads, and sandwiches— plus macarons!

After an extended hiatus, Once Upon a Table is open again and with a new owner, new chef, and a brand-new look. The restaurant offers seasonal fare in a cozy setting, tucked away in The Mews, just

off Main Street. Sweet tooths will want to check out Peace, Love & Chocolate, right next door, and the newly opened Mielke Confections (it’s the GB store’s second spot).

Just off Main, Stockbridge Coffee & Tea is a gathering spot for locals who chew on the news of the day—and pastries from Soma Catering—whilst perusing the gently used books in the adjoining bookstore. Tiffany’s Café has taken up residence at the Elm Street Market, complete with a lunch counter and grocery provisions. Michael’s Restaurant serves lunch and dinner seven days a week.

The Elm Street location of Nejaime’s Wine Cellar (sister store to the one in Lenox) has an extensive wine and craft beer selection.

SHOP | Souvenirs and tchotchkes are in plentiful supply at the Stockbridge General Store on Main and Sidetracks on Elm. Also on Elm: In existence since the 1790’s, Williams & Sons Country Store is an old-fashioned emporium with an abundant selection of penny candy, games, puzzles, and so much more. Schantz Galleries has an impressive display of contemporary glass art (by reservation only). Casablanca South is an offshoot of the main store in Lenox, specializing in fashion for women and men.

Back on Main, scope out the vintage

Naumkeag, the summer retreat for the Choate family until they bequeathed it to The Trustees of Reservations in 1958. It’s a pleasant mile-drive up the hill from the town center and hosts seasonal events.

Launched in 1934, the Berkshire Botanical Garden is among the oldest public display gardens in the Northeast. It offers workshops. lectures, and inspiration.

The Mission House is a National Historic Landmark and museum on Main Street that tells the story of the Mohicans and missionary John Seargent. It’s part of the self-guided walking tour of the town, as is the 1884 former Town Hall (depicted in Rockwell’s The Marriage License). The Stockbridge Library hosts discussions, readings, and other events.

The Berkshire Theatre Festival puts on shows at The Fitzpatrick Main Stage and Unicorn Theater in Stockbridge (as well as The Colonial Theatre in Pittsfield).

STAY | The Red Lion Inn has been providing lodging and food for more than two centuries and now encompasses other guesthouses on the property.

The Kripalu Center for Yoga and Health (reopened after a pandemic pause) affords residential stays that focus on yoga, wellness, and self-discovery.

The Inn at Stockbridge inhabits a refurbished 1906 Georgian-style estate. The antiques-filled rooms at Stockbridge Country Inn come with modern amenities.

Above: Stockbridge General Store. Opposite page: Winterlights at Naumkeag.

west stockbridge

Hugging the New York border, West Stockbridge manages to be a world away, beckoning the city dweller with visions of the countryside. There is something about a village (pop. 1,350) with a small river—that would be the Williams River— flowing through the town beneath flowerbedecked bridges as if it were the Arno of the Berkshires. Don’t let the dreaminess of the setting deceive you—West Stockbridge is hopping, with plenty to see and do.

EAT/DRINK | The opening of No. Six Depot in the old railway station in 2013 started it all. The husband-and-wife owners reopened the shuttered café, art gallery, and event space this summer, and the small-batch roastery is still going strong— their coffees (and teas) show up on menus throughout the Berkshires.

The lively but low-key “downtown” area offers but one dining option: Amici, an Italian restaurant, has moved into the beautifully renovated former Shaker Mill Tavern; it is open for dinner all but Tuesdays. Truc Orient Express is open for take-out only and by calling in advance. Rouge has closed and is for sale.

For a creative specialty sandwich, swing by the Public Market on Main Street,

a river runs through it

a few doors down from Queensboro Wine & Spirits Soma Catering operates out of a building here, in case you are planning a wedding or other event.

SHOP | The town offers one-of-a-kind shops, too. Charles H. Baldwin & Sons has been preparing cooking extracts for 125 years; boomers will think they’ve gone back in time, amidst the retro novelties and candies. The owners of Out of Vietnam scour their home country each year for silk scarves and jackets, lacquer work, and paintings to bring back to the Berkshires.

Unique hand-crafted home goods by creative proprietors are also to be had in and around the town center. At Hotchkiss Mobiles, Joel Hotchkiss has been designing ingenious mobiles since 1978. Elaine Hoffman is the ceramicist behind Hoffman Pottery, where you’ll find her hand-thrown creations for home and garden. Anderson & Sons Shaker Tree is in its 39th year of making replications of Shaker furniture by commission; visit the showroom on Saturdays, or call for an appointment.

R & R West Stockbridge has a curated collection of bespoke and artisanal items sourced globally and domestically. Sandy Klempner@HOME has a fine selection of

vintage treasures for home decorations, as does Serendipity Waterside (which also stocks vintage apparel but closes for winter). Flourish Market sells everything from newly refreshed antique furniture to modern lighting, along with jewelry and other giftable goodies.

SALA is jeweler Stephanie Iverson’s salon-style storefront, where you’ll find all her fine silver pieces, along with pieces by other artisans she loves from the U.S. and Mexico. Loftique sells colorful, billowy clothing for everyone—size XS to 2X.

Shaker Mill Books on Depot Street has a large but choice selection of rare, used, and out-of-print books, including a collection of books about the Berkshires.

SEE | The Foundry presents diverse programming, which, according to founder Amy Brentano, has the goal of “bringing divided communities together through the performing and visual arts and creating space for emerging work and often unheard voices.” The cutting-edge venue hosts indoor events in the black box theater. Straight out of Brooklyn: The Outlaw Gallery shows Vivian Outlaw’s own expressionistic art and works by others.

A short walk awayr, 16-acre TurnPark Art Space is a former quarry combining a sculpture park, exhibition venues, and marble amphitheater for outdoor performances. A trail runs along the Williams River and past massive boulders and striking sculptures from the Soviet Nonconformist art movement of the 1950s to 1980s.

STAY | Making West Stockbridge your headquarters for a Berkshire vacation makes good sense, as you are about equidistant from either end of the county. Each of the nine spacious rooms at the rustic Shaker Mill Inn comes with a kitchen or kitchenette, making this popular with family travelers.

Or you can book The Filomena, a renovated 19th century property that Conde Nast Traveler dubbed “the coolest Airbnb in Massachusetts.” The 4,500 square-foot former rectory has 13-foot ceilings, six bedrooms, four bedrooms, and a chef’s kitchen, and sits on an acre of land with gardens. It’s within walking distance of town.

From left: Card Pond, TurnPark Art Space.

"Architecture does not so much intrude on a landscape as it serves to explain it"

- Steven Holl

Dana BixbyArchitecture

pittsfield

the city at the center

As the commercial hub and county seat, Pittsfield has a proud history of manufacturing—and of embracing the challenges and opportunities brought on by its decline. Cultural initiatives have kindled its aspirations to become a magnet for the arts. The opening of the $13.8 million Berkshire Innovation Center is another sign of the city’s resilience. Being smack dab in the middle of the Berkshire borders makes Pittsfield a good place to set up camp, equidistant from North and South County destinations, but there’s plenty to keep you occupied within the city limits too.

EAT/DRINK | You won’t go hungry or thirsty here. There are more than 50 establishments (not all listed here!) to choose from, many on or bisecting North Street, the main corridor.

Rev your engine at Currency Coffee Co., a local roastery with a lounge and tasting room in the Allendale Underground. Homestyle breakfast and lunch options include Dottie’s Coffee Lounge, Joanne’s Elm Street Luncheonette, Otto’s Kitchen & Comfort, Samel’s Deli, and Misty Moonlight Diner. A branch of Marketplace Café is also here, serving its signature sandwiches, salads, and soups du jour. Third-generation Pittsfield Rye sells its popular breads at its South Street retail store Fridays and Saturdays. Tucked into a strip mall, Sarah’s Cheesecake

& Café has a rotating selection of cheesecake by the whole or slice; it also makes breakfast sandwiches and panini.

For an afternoon pick-you-up, join the long lines at Ayelada for small-batch frozen yogurt made with farm-fresh milk. Ben & Jerry fans can get their fix at the South Street locale. For a less sugary treat, make your way to The Spot for green juices and smoothies.

Global tastes await at La Fogata (Columbian), House of India, Vong’s Thai, BB’s Hot Spot (Caribbean), and Thistle & Mirth (Asian-style rice and noodles).

Craving craft beer and artful eats? Settle into Methuselah and order from 16 taps. Gastropub District Kitchen & Bar serves inventive food and drinks in a lively setting. Berkshire Palate in Hotel on North features small plates and seasonal entrees. R.J.’s Restaurant specializes in seafood, chops, and pasta. Longstanding Wandering Star Craft Brewery has a 15-barrel taproom. Look out for the opening of Hot Plate Brewery by NYC expats.

Smokey Diva’s is the place for barbecue, Flat Burger Society for a full lineup (including veggie options). The Hangar Pub and Grill boasts 26 flavors of wings to munch on while rooting for the Bruins. Hot Dog Ranch is another sports bar that’s “famous” for its baby sausage dogs and nightly specials. More mini dogs (it’s a thing!) and tater tots can be had at the iconic Teo’s Hot Dog Joint. Or hang

out with the regulars at Patrick’s Pub and O’Laughlin’s (home of the O’wings).

Even carnivores will dig the vegan cuisine at Thrive, in a renovated old diner adjacent to historic Wahconah Park.

Craving Italian? Head to old-school Mazzeo’s Ristorante, lantern-lit Trattoria Rustica, or Sibarita’s The Highland has been serving up Italian-American comfort food for over 85 years, with daily specials that haven’t changed for decades— manicotti on Tuesdays, chicken parm on Wednesdays and, of course, fish fries on Fridays. Roasted Garlic has affordable family-style fare.

Pittsfield could be called Pizza-field: The Pittsfield location of Berkshire Mountain Bakery features artisanal breads (get there early) and made-to-order pizzas all day. CRUST is a sparkling pizza parlor by the owners of Ayelada that touts organic and locally-sourced ingredients and inventive toppings. Greek-style Pizza House recently underwent a multi-million-dollar makeover. Zucchini’s serves wood-fired pizza for takeout or dining in (gluten-free cauliflower crust available). “Direct from Brooklyn to the Berkshires,” the rustic pies and calzones from Brooklyn’s Best are available for take-out or delivery. East Side Café is yet another pie standby.

Or, get pizza and other prepared foods to go from the South Street location of Guido’s Fresh Marketplace, which also

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From left: Dory & Ginger, Bousquet Mountain. Opposite page: CRUST.

stocks organic produce, cheese and cured meats, specialty items, and wine and beer.

Two chain hotels are drawing attention for their restaurants —101 Restaurant & Bar, on the second floor of The Holiday Inn (on West St.), is run by two local brothers who have crafted a southern-style menu; Jae’s is a pan-Asian restaurant (go for the clay pot curry) at the Hilton Garden Inn (behind Guido’s).

Bousquet Mountain, now under new ownership, has two updated eateries that are open year round: Lift Bistropub, a full-service bar and restaurant; and The Kitchen at Bousquet, a casual lunch spot.

SHOP | Park on one end of North Street and make your way to the other. Museum Outlets features custom-designed, letterpress cards along with hand-crafted picture frames and mirrors. Dory & Ginger sells Berkshire-themed gifts as well as linens and dishware.

Steven Valenti has been selling menswear since 1983, adding women’s apparel to the offerings. It’s the place for wedding attire, as is Deidre’s Special Day on South Street, the only full service bridal

shop in Berkshire County. Elegant Stitches (on First Street) offers custom embroidery and screen printing. Kidding Around is a small consignment store featuring maternity and baby/toddler clothing and toys. Miller Art Supply (on West Street) is a must for creative types, with paintbrushes and palettes galore.

If you’re looking to spruce up your (first, second, or third) home, Paul Rich & Sons, also on North Street, has 30,000 square feet of floor space to look at, most of it American-made; Circa Berkshires, a few blocks away, offers Danish and mid-century modern pieces. Clark Vintage Lighting sells (and repairs/restores) period lighting from the 1800s to the 1960s.

Independently owned Carr Hardware is your headquarters for all your home and garden needs. You never know what you may find among the donated home improvement products and building materials at ReStore (on Columbus Ave.), and your money will be well spent (profits go to Habitat for Humanity). Nearby, on Pecks Road, The Outlet at Pine Cone Hill is a destination for Annie Selke’s coveted bedding and decorative pillows along with

Dash & Albert rugs, all at steep discounts.

Take note: Pittsfield boasts numerous cannabis dispensaries: Temescal Wellness west of town and Berkshire Roots and Bloom Brothers to the east. Plus newcomers Jack’s (South St.) and HiBrid (East St.)

SEE | Pittsfield’s downtown is now its Upstreet Cultural District, anchored by the beautifully restored 1903 Colonial Theatre, part of Berkshire Theatre Group, and the innovative Barrington Stage Company, which normally attracts almost 60,000 patrons per year to its four downtown venues and has become an incubator of shows that regularly go on to stages in Boston and New York. The District comes alive at community events, including First Fridays Artswalk (from May through December).

The vibrant Pittsfield visual arts scene features public art, galleries, studios, and cooperatives. Located in the center of town on North Street, the recently updated Berkshire Museum, is again open for in-person visits. Its holdings range across subjects and fields of knowledge, but highlights, including an aquarium, natural history specimens, a mummy, and the

Feigenbaum Hall of Innovation, make it a great place to take children. The new, immersive “Curiosity Incubator” gallery is a portal to greater awareness of the human family. Winter festival events run from November 12 through January 8.

The Lichtenstein Center for the Arts, on Renne Ave., is a city-owned community arts center that’s home to a first-floor gallery space and holds classes, performances, gatherings, readings, and more. The Lichtenstein also houses nine working artist studios, a ceramics workshop, and a darkroom.

There are also murals with messages, including Walk with Her, an installation by local artist Maurice “Pops” Peterson, who reinvented Norman Rockwell’s Ruby Bridges for an installation above Center Street, in the Jubilee Hill neighborhood.

The renovated, five-screen Beacon Cinema downtown on North has comfortable (heated!) reclining seats and shows operas in the Met’s “Live in HD” series. The Little Cinema at The Berkshire Museum has been presenting indie and foreign films for 60-plus years.

For a glimpse into a different way of living, 700-acre Hancock Shaker Village

beckons from outside of town along Route 20 in Hancock. The Shakers created a religious, utopian farming community here in the 1780s around the ideas of pacifism, celibacy, and communal living. No Shakers remain, but their way of life forms the basis for a living history museum, with 20 authentic Shaker buildings and rich collections of Shaker furniture and artifacts. At the same time, it’s a working farm, with extensive gardens and heritage livestock. Check their website for more fun events.

Let Whitman keep Brooklyn; Herman Melville had Pittsfield. The native New Yorker bought a 1785 farmhouse in 1850 and settled in for some serious writing— and an intense affair with the mistress of the neighboring manor. He named his new digs Arrowhead after the many native artifacts that turned up in his fields; it’s now a museum run by the Berkshire Historical Society dedicated to his 13 years’ residence under its roof. Visitors can see the room where Melville wrote Moby Dick, with its view north to Mount Greylock, whose profile is said to have evoked for the author the whale that obsessed Captain Ahab.

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STAY | The 45-room Hotel on North, another repurposed downtown building that successfully blends new and old, attracts both a local and out-of-town clientele to its stylish digs.

Trattoria Rustica has begun offering a “B&D” (Bed & Dinner) package, where guests can stay in one of three Airbnb units in owner Davide Manzo’s private home (built in the 1900s by the Crane Paper family)—three-course meal included.

Otherwise, you have your choice of national chains that offer proximity and target family travelers. Holiday Inn & Suites is less than a five-minute walk to downtown; Hilton Garden Inn and Yankee Inn are conveniently located between Lenox and Pittsfield; and Best Western Plus Berkshire Hills puts you close to Hancock. Berkshire Inn is a local budget motel near downtown.

lenox

the region’s cultural epicenter

You could easily while away an entire day—or leisurely weekend— ambling historic downtown Lenox, ducking into the stylish shops, galleries, and eateries that beckon from every direction. Venture a bit farther afield and you can take in a show, concert, or panoramic hike. Lenox truly has it all, including Gilded Age manses galore—some that you can even sleep in!

When did Lenox become so fashionable? In 1821, to be precise, when a son of the Sedgwick family moved here from neighboring Stockbridge. He was soon joined by his sister, best-selling novelist Catharine Sedgwick, the region’s first literary luminary. Some of their friends from Boston started building grand “Cottages” in the neighborhood; one rented a cottage of the humble kind to Nathaniel Hawthorne and his family in 1850. Although the Hawthornes only stayed for a year and a half, the author of The Scarlet Letter wrote Tanglewood Tales on the grounds of what would later become the summer home of the Boston Symphony; the name “Tanglewood” is Hawthorne’s own invention.

EAT/DRINK | Lenox eats well. Alta, Bistro Zinc, Firefly, and Sweet Dreams Bakery (all on Church St.) are five good reasons, as is Patisserie Lenox for the French owner’s macarons. Brava Bar and The Olde Heritage Tavern (both on Housatonic St.) are others. On Main St. you’ll find Frankie’s (for Italian and a convivial vibe) and its offshoot, Pizzeria Boema, as well as Lenox Coffee, for an energy boost.

On Franklin St., Haven Café and Bakery is a brunch and lunch staple across from Prime Italian Steakhouse & Bar Stocking your pantry? Hit up Dare Bottleshop & Provisions and Oliva! Gourmet Olive Oils & Vinegars (both on Housatonic), and Nejaime’s Wine Cellar and Loeb’s Foodtown (both on Main). Plus: Chocolate Springs Café, right off Route 7, is worth a short drive for awardwinning truffles.

SHOP | Apparel, home goods, and fine arts await. On Church St. alone there’s Casablanca (high-end clothing), Catwalk (a resale outlet by the Berkshire Humane

Society), Glad Rags (for affordable apparel), La Pace (Italian bed and bath products), Laurie Donovan Designs (custom jewelry), MacKimmie Co. (luxurious throws), Purple Plume (“where art meets fashion” in clothes, jewelry, accessory and gifts), Swtrz (yep, sweaters!), and The Gifted Child (toys).

Head down Housatonic St. for CERI Boutique (trendy wearables), Design Menagerie (“objects of utility and beauty for women, men, and home”), Shooz 44 (you got it!), and Wilcox & Co. (“necessities for better living”). Be sure to browse the curated and comprehensive selection at The Bookstore & Get Lit Wine Bar (Housatonic St.), a must for book lovers.

On Main St., the Annie Selke Shop offers the designer’s own home décor under the Pine Cone Hill and Dash & Albert brands; Colorful Stitches is a cheery nirvana for knitters, with yarn in vivid colors and plentiful patterns; What a Gift has relocated here in bigger digs; and Berkshire Classic specializes in leather goods and silver.

Clockwise from top left: Lenox Library, The Olde Heritage Tavern, The Mount, Annie Selke Shop.

Steilmann (Walker St.) carries women’s European fashions. And on Route 7, just north of town, is the Arcadian Shop, a favorite outdoor sports retailer.

SEE | Creativity thrives here. Downtown features a smattering of galleries that feature art and handicrafts, including An American Craftsman, The Art Of, His Daughter Paloma, Janet Pumphrey Gallery, Hado Mark Gallery, Lenox Print & Mercantile, Sohn Fine Art, and The Wit Gallery Walk (or drive) to the Shakespeare & Company campus for world-class theater; WAM Theatre is also nearby. Of course, Tanglewood, the storied summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, is the place for premier classical music performances. It now offers year-round programming at the new, architecturally award-winning Linde Center for Music and Learning comprising 24,000 square feet across four separate buildings—that’s part of an educational initiative by the BSO.

In addition to the Bostonians, wealthy New Yorkers like Edith Wharton built some 93 impressive summer homes in Lenox and Stockbridge in the latter 19th and early 20th century. Edith Wharton’s The Mount is open to the public from May through October, but you can stroll the lovely grounds all year and for free. Ventfort Hall, built for J.P. Morgan’s sister in 1893, even has a museum dedicated to the Gilded Age in several of its 50 rooms.

STAY | Lenox is home to quaint bed and breakfasts, lavish resorts, Gilded Age inns, and budget-friendly lodgings. Take your pick. In-town accommodations include Annie Selke’s 33 Main, The Cornell Inn, Garden Gables Inn, Gateways Inn, Hampton Terrace Inn, and Whistler’s Inn. The Lenox Collection now manages three iconic inns, all in the heart of Lenox: The Constance (formerly Rookwood), The Dewey (formerly Birchwood), and The Whitlock (formerly Church Street Inn).

The recently renovated Apple Tree Inn and Seven Hills Inn are within a

five-minute drive from town, as is Stonover Farm and Brook Farm Inn (Honorable mention: The Inn at Kenmore Hall is in neighboring Richmond.)

Want to feel to the manor born?

You have your choice of four former Gilded Age cottages. Blantyre, a member of the Relais & Chateaux network, is undergoing (another!) multi-million-dollar facelift and will continue to boast a Café Boulud restaurant (no official word on date of reopening). After a $130-million renovation, the former Cranwell has emerged as Miraval Berkshires, an all-inclusive wellness retreat, and the more à la carte Wyndhurst Manor & Club. The 19-room Wheatleigh is one of the smallest Leading Hotels of the World. The Kemble Inn has reopened under new ownership and with a modern update.

Canyon Ranch Spa is the offshoot of the legendary Arizona resort, with modern accommodations on the sprawling campus. You may never want to leave, nor will you need to, given the deluxe spa services and dining options, all centered around Bellefontaine Mansion (another Berkshire Cottage).

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Left to Right: Elizabeth Aspenlieder and Michelle Joyner, The Approach, 2022.

Photo by Daniel Rader.

lee

under the radar

“The gateway to the Berkshires” (it’s the town you enter off the Mass Pike), Lee has somehow remained an undiscovered gem. Its humble, hardworking origins—it was built by paper mills and marble quarries—reverberate today in Lee’s friendly and eclectic vibe. The historic town center has small-town feel and eye-appeal in spades. The First Congregational Church’s steeple is the tallest wooden spire in New England: lift up your eyes.

EAT/DRINK | It’s a puzzle how Lee has remained off the food-seeking GPS. On Main Street alone you can order up farm-to-table breakfast and lunch fare at Starving Artist Creperie & Café and Prado’s Cafe, or a plate of corned beef hash at Joe’s Diner. Seafood is on deck at Salmon Run Fish House, bistro food at The Morgan House (serving since 1853!) and Café Triskele (both under new ownership), Peruvian fare at Alpamayo, and Chinese at Panda Garden. Or cheer on your favorite teams at the Locker Room Sports Bar

Still in town, authentic, Oaxacan-style tamales, tacos, sopes, and huaraches are on the menu at brand-new Antojitos Oaxaca, on Railroad Street (in the former site of Lucia’s Latin Kitchen), while Baja Charlie’s continues making “killer tacos” and margaritas. Or, head to Athena’s for Greek food or 51 Park Restaurant & Tavern for family-friendly pub grub. Craftbeer aficionados will appreciate the “no Bud Light” ethos at Moe’s Tavern, a beer and whiskey joint with a cult following. A short drive will take you to Mint for Indian food in a lakeside setting.

Also worth the trip is family-owned High Lawn Farm. Stop by their Farmstead Creamery to stock up on their full line of fresh dairy products. Barrington Coffee Roasting Company has a roastery that’s like Willy Wonka for the caffeinated set.

Canna Provisions, off the Mass Pike as you head into town, offers a full line of THC and CBD wellness offerings (legal weed, in plain English).

SHOP | Downtown offers a multifarious mix. Zabian’s Fine Jewelry is a family-owned business right on Main. Antiques aplenty are on hand at the 3,000-square-foot Finders Keepers. Ben’s is the place for iconic shoes and boots (Red Wing, Bogs) in a former

Army-Navy store. Off of It Gallery for custom sneakers and collectibles (Supreme and Bearbricks), and Karen Keenan’s Gifts & Home for, well, gifts and home goods. Barn Speed Hobbies is an old-school store that is filled to the rafters with rare finds (think radio-controlled airplanes) and a staff that is eager to help. Looking for building and renovation supplies? Don’t miss Dresser-Hull.

For name-brand merchandise at discount prices, Premium Outlets (the most-visited spot in the Berkshires) is just one mile east of town via US Route 20. With some 60 stores and a family-friendly food court, there’s something for everyone here, from sporting goods (Champion, Under Armour) and casual wear (J. Crew/ CrewCuts, Ann Taylor/Loft, Banana Republic, Gap/Gap Kids, Old Navy, Levi’s) to luxe accessories (Coach, Cole Haan, Michael Kors, Kate Spade), among other name-brand merchants.

SEE | While not as eminent as its Berkshire neighbors, Lee has its own arts distinction. Wilma, a center for music, dance, and other art forms, features performances by local talent in the historic Congregational Church.

From a renovated former five-anddime on Main Street, the College Internship Program (CIP) offers a year-long curriculum focusing on creative and educational development for young

adults with Asperger’s, autism, and other learning differences. The program has two professional venues: the Good Purpose Gallery on Main and the Spectrum Playhouse & Joyous Studios, in a converted church on Franklin St.

In South Lee on Route 102, the Saint Francis Gallery, also in a converted church, features a mix of emerging and established local artists. At Ozzie’s Glass Gallery on Route 102 towards Stockbridge, you can see Michael Ozzie, a native Lee artisan, in action blowing glass.

STAY | In-town options include The Morgan House and Chambery Inn Bed & Breakfast. Budget hotel Pilgrim Inn is on the retail strip along Housatonic Street, near the new Starbucks (in the former Friendly’s location) and existing Dunkin’

Devonfield Inn, another historic B&B, sits on 32 lush acres on the road to Lenox. Black Swan Inn is on Laurel Lake.

The Holiday Inn Club Vacations Oak n’ Spruce Resort, located along the Housatonic River in South Lee, is popular with young families.

Lee also lays claim to The Playhouse, a VRBO listing that was featured in the Netflix series The World’s Most Amazing Vacation Rentals. The 7,000 square foot property includes a yoga studio, two kitchens, seven sleeping areas, and five bedrooms, plus lakefront access and views.

From left: Karen Keenan’s Gifts & Home, Joe’s Diner.

adams coming into

The Berkshires boasts two towns named after signers of the Declaration of Independence. One is Hancock. The other was named in 1778 for Sam—whom most of us know as the “brewer-patriot,” not his cousin and futurepresident John—though they both signed the Declaration. The post-industrial town may not have as high a profile as some of its fellows in Berkshire County, including its trendy sibling to the north, but its time to shine is at hand. While here, it’s worth stopping in the Berkshires Visitors Center for information on Adams and all the rest.

EAT/DRINK | The day the husbandand-wife owners of Shire Donuts hung the “open” sign on Summer Street (in October 2020), they sold 3,200 doughnuts in 15 hours—and made Adams a donut destination (expect lines on weekends).

Nearby Daily Grind serves hearty, homestyle breakfast and lunch food seven days a week, as does the historic, much-loved Miss Adams’ Diner, which has recently reopened under new management.

Lee’s Dynasty features Asian fare, Chee’s has Chinese, and AJ’s Trailside Pub serves dogs, grinders, and wings. BountiFare, a longtime local favorite, offers a full dinner menu on the Adams/North Adams line; the Wednesday night open-mics and monthly jazz nights are a special draw. With its Austrian-American menu, family-owned Hafflinger Haus will have you singing “the hills are alive with the sound of music.” Dine in the formal restaurant, or load up on its jumbo wings, cheesy Jaeger fries, and hefeweizen (or other German beers) in the rustic tavern room or refurbished biergarten.

SHOP | Downtown Adams (namely Park Street) is home to one-of-a-kind mom-andpop shops—or make that mom or pop: Guy Carridi opened Adams Outlets on Park Street in 2021 with the goal of offering steep discounts on all the wares (gifts, clothing, home goods) and bring people to town to help other businesses. Bella Sky Gifts is a one-stop gift shop and maker space where you can buy, or DIY, apothecary (candles and such), home décor (pillows and signs), and more. Lynda’s Antique Clothing Loft has an extensive selection of vintage apparel

its own

and accessories. Real Eyes Gallery “aims to create original pieces that bring people together through shared conversation at mealtime.” It’s only open on weekends or by appointment; calling ahead is recommended. North County Creates (on Hoosac St.) features art and collectibles from local artisans along with custom framing.

On the outskirts of town, the young and young-at-heart will get a kick out of the train sets and radio-operated toys at Hobby World; the original Berkshire Outfitters is a local legend, operating out of its current building at the foot of Mt. Greylock since 1982. Whatever your outdoor excursion (kayaking, paddle boarding, hiking, skiing, camping, cycling), the knowledgeable staff will set you up. (The store also offers rentals.)

SEE | Adams was first settled by Quakers and Baptists in the 1760s and 70’s. The Quaker Meeting House, constructed for worship in 1784, still stands—and is widely considered Adams’ most important historical landmark. The Quakers opposed slavery and war; women had a voice in Quaker society and received an education. In 1820 Susan B. Anthony was born into a mixed Quaker-Baptist family in Adams.

One hundred years later, thanks in no small part to her efforts, American women won the right to vote. The Susan B. Anthony Birthplace Museum on East Road tells the story of her life of social activism in five well-appointed rooms.

Culture is finding a foothold in Adams. The old Adams Theater in the heart of downtown has been undergoing a major redevelopment, with new owners transforming the building into a modern, multi-functional performing arts center that’s slated to wrap up in 2023. Stay tuned.

The impressive Adams Free Library, which also serves as headquarters for the Adams Historical Society, remains a cultural resource; President McKinley laid the cornerstone in 1897.

All aboard! Hop on the historic Hoosac Valley Train Ride for a one-hour roundtrip ride up to North Adams and back.

STAY | Originally a gentlemen’s lodge in the 1930s and a ski lodge after that, the Topia Inn is a “green” boutique hotel. Each guest room is decorated to evoke a faraway locale. If you lean into an old-world atmosphere, The Hafflinger Haus Inn has six rooms in its historic property.

Hoosac Valley Train Ride

north adams

if you build it . . .

MASS MoCA looms large in the smallest city in Massachusetts, drawing more than 160,000 people annually, and making North Adams a premier cultural destination. It was not always so. North Adams was built on manufacturing: Shoes, bricks, hats, cloth, and marble poured forth from busy factories until the Depression. Recovery came in 1999, when the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art was born, in an idle factory space. In 2017, the already vast museum doubled its exhibit space, becoming the largest institution of its kind in the world. It also sparked other enterprising folks to create businesses to meet the needs all those visitors.

EAT/DRINK | The MASS MoCA campus has its own eateries, including Lickety Split and Bright Ideas Brewery, which spotlights locally malted grains and hops. Door Prize is a sandwich-and-salad pop-up outside the entrance to the museum. Other options are within walking distance: Brew Ha Ha (more than just espresso drinks); Renee’s Diner (homestyle breakfast and lunch fare); PUBLIC (farm-fresh takes on American classics); Capitol (upscale comfort food); Nara Sushi; Grazie (Italian); and Ramunto’s Pizza (for delivery and takeout). Pub fare is on tap at 413 Bistro and Taproom, Mohawk Tavern, and Freight Yard Pub, Mexican food at Tres Niños

Taqueria and Desperado’s Jack’s Hot Dog Stand has been grilling dawgs since 1917. Craft Food Barn is a new roadside spot serving take-out or delivery all day long.

Another factory facelift, Greylock WORKS inhabits a sprawling cottonspinning mill, providing food production and retail space to local makers, including Berkshire Cider Project (hard cider) and The Distillery (small-batch gin and rum). At The Break Room, notable chef Brian Alberg celebrates farm-sourced food at communal tables, where you can soak up the industrial vibe. Farther afield, The Trail House Kitchen & Bar lies on Route 2 towards Williamstown, Bounti-Fare Restaurant heading south towards Adams.

SHOP | Downtown North Adams is a delightful mash-up. Berkshire Emporium & Antiques is a local favorites. The Bear and Bee is a new independent bookstore. WallaSauce is an upcycled streetwear pop-up. A group of 40 local artists is behind Common Folk Artist Collective (check the website for updated opening hours).

West of downtown, the former Norad Mill (a former textile factory) is home to Tunnel City Coffee, a local roastery (with a café at MASS MoCA) and The Norad Cafe. Freia Yarns, producer of hand-dyed yarns, relocated here from California; the Spinoff Yarn Shop is worth a trip to the third

floor. Belltower Records stocks an eclectic selection of new and used LPs, CDs, and stereo equipment. Norad Mill Toy & Candy Shop offers a glimpse of the good old days.

SEE | The town’s vibrant Cultural District is of course anchored by MASS MoCA, which hosts temporary and permanent exhibits in its labyrinthine galleries and musical performances in its indoor venues and 19th-century courtyard. The campus also hosts artist residency studio spaces and galleries, including Ferrin Contemporary and CYNTHIA-REEVES

Around town, keep your eyes peeled for colorful murals by local and visiting artists from as far as Mexico and Egypt and interactive public installations, such as Victoria Palermo’s bus shelter and Kathline Carr’s parklet as well as businesses like Martha Flood Designs. Much of this work is spearheaded by the Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts (MCLA), a distinguished liberal arts college not far from town, which runs its own Gallery 51 The Berkshire Art Museum, North Adams Public Library, and North Adams Museum of History and Science lend cultural and historical heft.

STAY | Porches Inn inhabits an entire block of once-dilapidated Victorian rowhouses, with generous porches (hence the name) offering views of MASS MoCA across the street. The Inn recently opened Studio 9, a stunning, state-of-the-art private performance venue and recording studio on the grounds.

Rustic meets sleek at TOURISTS, located in a former motel on 80 lush acres that’s home to woodland trails, riverbank vistas, and sculptural installations. Breakfast and snacks are available to guests, but anyone is welcome to dine at Airport Rooms, the onsite restaurant, which serves “tasty suppers, natural wines, and stiff drinks” (reservations recommended).

Blackinton Manor is an 1832 Italianate home in the historic Blackinton neighborhood (halfway between downtown North Adams and Williamstown) with five spacious guest rooms. (Or you can rent the entire shebang through Airbnb.)

View of North Adams from the haripin turn.

TRAIL MIX: Where People Go to Play in the SNOW

By Evelyn Battaglia

The throngs have it all wrong: Winter is when the Berkshires reveals its true nature—all craggy hills and rocky outcroppings and snow-covered (fingers crossed) ground that beckons us outdoors. Treadmills and Pelotons don’t hold a candle to gravity’s natural elevations, and you’ll be breathing in the crisp, clean, invigorating air.

Four-season hikers (counting me and sprightly German Shorthaired Pointer) relish the newfound solitude amidst the sculptural beauty of towering bare-limbed trees—and open views they now provide. The lowsitting sun is brighter, casting everything in sharper focus. Once winter sets in, we (humans) pull ice cleats onto our boots and use walking sticks for added stability.

Snowshoeing has its own aficionados—this ancient means of transportation has gone completely modern, with sleek equipment that will have you dashing through the snow in style. Or strap on a pair of crosscountry skis and traipse along miles of groomed (and ungroomed!) trails. Avid Nordic-ers pounce at the first sign of powder.

If Alpine skiing is more your speed, the Berkshires boasts five resorts within its county lines and a handful more can be reached north of the Vermont border. All welcome first-timers—especially little ones—to practice their snowplows on bunny and pony slopes and gentle beginner runs. Eager to shred the gnar (jargon for gnarly turf)? Black diamonds and moguls await, as do terrain parks for freestyle jumps and jibs.

For all the above winter pleasures, let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Others may grumble but we say: Bring it on!

Alpine Skiing

Skiers and riders of all levels have been coming to the greater Berkshire region for decades, and for good reason. Even climate change deniers will appreciate how these industrious attractions have upped their snowmaking skills when freshies are not in the forecast. They’ve also invested in new lodges and lifts to elevate (ahem) the whole experience.

Established in 1932, Bousquet (now owned by Mill Town Capital) is the oldest operating resort in the Berkshires—and the first to introduce night skiing (in 1936!), a tradition that continues to this day, six evenings a week. “Being able to give locals the opportunity to come after school and work is core to our mission,” says general manager Kevin McMillan. The 200-acre ski area has 23 trails and one terrain park.

Updates include a new snowmaking system and triple-chair lift (for a total of five lifts). There’s also a spiffy new lodge with two restaurants where parents can see their kids anywhere on the mountain. And Bousquet is building up its junior racing program by recruiting two national-level skiers to train with the team.

As a self-described beginner resort (per McMillan), Bousquet is focusing as well on improvements that will resonate with its key demographic. “Studies show that 80 percent of first-time skiers never do it more than once, so we are looking head-on at how to smooth the rough edges of the pain points,” Hence the designated parking area for first-timers and families with young children mere steps away from the lodge; instructors show how to put rental boots on and carry skis.

Situated a five-minute drive from downtown Great Barrington, Butternut has also been teaching generations of locals and weekenders to ski for generations. Today it offers 22 trails (60 percent intermediate), two terrain parks, and an adjacent tubing area. Plus, the Snowsports School offers one-off or multi-week lessons for all ages and levels and types as well as a tiered youth racing program for ages 10 to 18. According to marketing director Dillon Mahon, Butternut has increased its snowmaking capacity for “more snow faster,” brought back its popular $35 midweek (non-holiday) lift ticket, and introduced two-day lift tickets and midweek season passes due to customer demand. Time-saving tip: add these to your existing Reload Cards via the online store so you can skip the ticket window and head directly to the lifts.

Butternut recently acquired Otis Ridge, an affordable, family-oriented New England area that opened in 1946 with two rope pulls and one run but has since expanded to 10 trails of all difficulties, including curvy paths through the woods, plus a robust ski school. It too offers discounted midweek tickets, a bargain at $25. Seniors over 70 always ski free.

Berkshire East, off Route 2 in Charlemont, has been run by the same family for over 45 years and was the world’s first ski area to produce 100 percent of its electricity from on-site

renewable energy. The old-school vibe remains despite modern facilities and a multi-million-dollar upgrade of its snowmaking operations in 2021, for 100 percent coverage of 45 trails serviced by five lifts.

Catamount, straddling Hillsdale, N.Y., and Egremont, Mass., bills itself as an all-around, mid-size resort that offers “some of the most varied terrain in southern New England with a great selection of intermediate and expert trails for a ‘next-level’ experience,” says marketing manager Ian Tomasch. It also offers night skiing Wednesday through Saturday. Since being bought by the folks who run Berkshire East in 2018, the area undergone a costly makeover, getting a stylish lodge, new quad and triple lifts, additional black-diamond runs, and an overhauled snowmaking infrastructure. A tubing park is to open this season, too. Both Catamount and Berkshire East are part of the IndySkiPass program (indyskipass.com), which entitles holders to two days of skiing or riding at each of 100-plus independent resorts.

Now in its 77th season, Mohawk Mountain—in Cornwall, Conn.—is another night-skiing (and snow-tubing) destination, with 16 of its 26 trails open six evenings a week. Modern snowmaking techniques were invented here and continue apace, with state-of-the-art systems delivering 100 percent coverage. Nordic skiing and snowshoeing are on deck in the adjoining state forest.

Offering 45 trails, nine lifts, and a 1,150-foot vertical drop, Jiminy Peak has been drawing locals and out-of-towners to its Hancock resort since 1948. This year it is adding four trails to its daily Twilight program, for a total of 25 trails and (depending on conditions) up to three terrain parks. It lives up to its

Opposite page: Mount Snow. Above: Bousquet.

sustainability mission by being fully powered by wind turbines, visible from the slopes. Lodging, complete with heated outdoor pool, is mere steps away at The Country Inn or one of the vacation homes on the property.

Southern Vermont boasts another handful of resorts that are close enough for a day trip but worth a weekend jaunt as well, quaint villages included. (See Day Trip on page 53 for one such itinerary.) These places tend to open earlier (thanks to higher elevations), letting you jump-start your season as early as mid-November.

Locals who want to test their skills head to Mount Snow in West Dover. The bustling area features 80 trails and 1,700 feet of vertical drop serviced by 20 lifts—including the Bluebird Express, a six-person bubble lift that takes riders to the 3,600-foot-high summit—on four mountain faces, all of which offer tree skiing. One face (Corinthia) counts 10 terrain parks and the superpipe. Despite having an average annual snowfall of 156 inches, Mount Snow is known for top-notch snowmaking and grooming operations, plus modern facilities and a comfortable lodge. Non skiers will appreciate one of the largest tubing hills in the state, plus other activities like dog sledding and snowmobiling.

With 99 trails fanning from Vermont’s highest peak (at 3,785 feet), Stratton Mountain Resort is one of Vermont’s largest ski areas—and the birthplace of snowboarding. The 2,003-foot vertical drop is almost twice that at Massachusetts’ ski mountains and reason enough to make the two-hour drive from Great Barrington; 670 acres of skiable terrain and an average annual snowfall of 180 inches are others. Though large, it’s not daunting: 40 percent of the trails are designated novice and 35 percent intermediate. The 11 lifts carry close to 34,000 people per hour but expect lines on weekends and holidays.

Wait, there’s more: Stratton’s Nordic Center features over seven miles of groomed classic and skate trails plus

snowshoeing. You can also view the mountain via snowmobile, rent a fat bike for peddling through the snow, or go ice skating on the pond in the Village Commons, part of a slope-side area for shopping, dining, and lodging.

If crowd-free skiing and riding sounds about right, Magic Mountain is an authentic New England area in Londonderry that’s best known for its boundary-to-boundary tree-skiing and narrow, twisting trails that descend 1,500 vertical feet to two summit lifts. Its history is telling: When the founder was searching Vermont to start a ski area in the late 1950s, he discovered Glebe Mountain, whose ridge lines and steep topography reminded him of his native Swiss Alps. That distinctive, demanding terrain remains virtually unchanged today—and sets Magic apart from others in the region.

Located in Peru, Bromley Mountain has been teaching families how to ski going on 86 years. Its 46 trails are evenly split across difficulty levels and run past three freestyle-terrain parks—all with sunny south-facing slopes. A shuttle takes visitors to and from lodging in Bromley Village. Off-mountain activities abound—ice skating, snowmobiling, sleigh rides, and of course shopping at the Manchester Designer Outlets, a mere six miles away.

Okemo Mountain Resort offers southern Vermont’s highest vertical drop of 2,200 feet and an extensive trail network (120 trails!) that spans five distinct alpine areas, each with at least one high-speed quad lift. A total of eight terrain parks and the east’s longest superpipe means there’s something for everyone here—including a slopeside tubing park in Jackson Gore, ice skating on the regulation-size hockey arena, guided tours on kidsized snowmobiles, and well-marked cross-country terrain and snowshoeing trails at the Okemo Valley Nordic Center. Plus, lots of on-mountain dining options and accommodations. You’re more than welcome!

From left: Adaptive skiing at Jiminy Peak, Catamount.

Cross-country Skiing and Snowshoeing

Besides the above properties, check out the following full-service XC ski centers. Each rents equipment (arrive early as items go fast, especially on holidays), lessons (usually on weekends only), and seasonal passes that are a bargain compared to Alpine rates. Check the calendar too for special events, including full-moon ski or snowshoe tours.

Notchview has more than 25 miles of groomed trails on 3,000 acres in Windsor. Almost half are groomed and track-set for classic cross-country skiing and five miles are groomed for the new style of skate skiing—so named for the side-to-side motion that resembles ice skating. A separate trail system is for “skijoring,” or skiing with dogs. You can also snowshoe alongside the ski trails or go off track and explore the backcountry. A special section called the Kinderloop is for teaching youngsters.

The Berkshire foothills, which get snow when the valley doesn’t, is home to two privately owned recreational depots. At Canterbury Farm, a hidden gem in Becket, you’ll be greeted by a restored 1780 historic home (in summer a B&B) and 13 miles of groomed and tracked XC ski trails that offer views of Mount Greylock at the summit. There are also wider trails for ski skating and packed trails just for snowshoeing. You can also hike here (for free) all year.

A working family farm since 1812, Maple Corner Farm (Granville) is another little-known secret with over 12 miles of machine-groomed ski trails marked beginner to expert plus another six miles for snowshoeing.

Stump Sprouts lies just east of the Berkshire County line and south of the Mohawk Trail, in the tiny mountain town of Hawley (population 337). It has 15 miles of groomed trails for XC skiing, snowshoeing, and winter biking when conditions allow.

Heading into Southern Vermont, Timber Creek XC Ski Center—located across the road from Mount Snow and far

from the madding crowds—has over eight miles of thoughtfully groomed trails for classic and skate skiing plus a separate “intimate” network for snowshoeing.

Prospect Mountain, some 15 minutes east of Bennington in Woodford, maintains over 18 miles of trails, most of which have classic tracks set on either side with a wide skating lane in the center along with special snowshoeing and single-track trails. Experts flock to The Mountain Trail for a 400-foot climb to the top and then a bit of downhill fun after taking in the views.

Located in the Green Mountain National Forest (15 minutes from Manchester in the town of Peru), Wild Wings Ski Touring Center is reliably snowy, with 15 miles of loop trails (no getting lost!), about one-third of which have skate lanes. All levels are welcome here, as are snowshoers.

Skiing has a special heritage in Salisbury dating back to 1927, when John Satre (say-tree) and other Norwegian ski-jumping and Nordic champions hosted a major skijumping competition on a makeshift ski-jump off the roof of a hillside shed—and continued to do so until war ensued. Intrepid fans rekindled the flame by forming the Salisbury Winter Sports Association, building a new jump in Satre’s honor, and hosting the U.S. Eastern Ski Jumping Championship in 1950, a tradition that continues today as a three-day event in mid-February. Visit jumpfest.org for details on the 97th Annual Jumpfest in 2023 (date yet to be announced).

Cross-country skiing at Stump Sprouts.

Looking for a weekend adventure? The hills are alive at The Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont. Opened by the family of The Sound of Music fame, it’s America’s oldest commercial cross-country ski center. Explore 40 miles of machine-tracked trails and another 25 miles of backcountry trails on over 2,500 acres. Stay in the ski-in, ski-out chalets and sample the inn’s own Austrian-style lagers at the Bierhall Stowe Mountain Resort—best known as a downhill ski destination—also offers 28 miles of groomed tracks and wide skating trails, plus just shy of 20 miles of untracked backcountry trails, covering more than 3,000 acres of conserved land. Trails in the Mount Mansfield State Forest connect to the Stowe Recreation Path, leading down into the village center of Stowe. The resort includes luxury lodging at The Lodge at Spruce Peak, multiple dining options, a large ice-skating rink, and scenic rides to the summit.

Hiking Trails

No snow is required to embark on scenic treks, including stretches of the Appalachian Trail that crisscross the region. But when the snow does come, and it always does, these trails all welcome snowshoeing and XC skiing too.

Start by downloading the Berkshire Natural Resources Council (BRNC) Trails App to explore 12,000 acres across 58 properties up and down the county. (Safety first: Be sure to don bright clothing before heading into properties that allow

hunting; same for any four-legged friends. Look for posted signs at trailheads.)

Popular trails include Alford Springs (Alford), Basin Pond (Lee), Bob’s Way (Monterey/Sandisfield). Brother’s Trail and Olivia’s Overlook Trail at Yokun Ridge South (Lenox/ Stockbridge), Clam River (Sandisfield), Hollow Fields (Richmond), Hoosac Range (North Adams/Florida), Housatonic Flats (Great Barrington), Jackson Pond (Stockbridge), Mahanna Cobble (Lenox/Pittsfield), Steepletop (New Marlborough/Sandisfield), and Threemile Hill Trail & CHP Loop (Great Barrington).

The Trustees of Reservations also maintains year-round properties (check thetrustees.org for details and directions). Highlights include Bartholomew’s Cobble, a 329-acre nature sanctuary in Sheffield with five miles of trails, and Tyringham Cobble, a 206-acre open-space reservation with a 2.1-mile loop trail that connects to the AT. (FYI: cobble is a quaint word for big rock.) The three-mile loop trail at Monument Mountain in Great Barrington is of course a favorite for hiking amidst history. A new connector trail links the Mohican Trail to Flag Rock, or you can access this short out-and-back trail from Route 183 in Housatonic.

Otherwise, plug the following into your GPS: At 3,491 feet, the peak of Mount Greylock is the highest point in Massachusetts, with 70 miles of hiking trails that vary in difficulty. Nearby, Greylock Glen has well-maintained trails and a 2.5-mile route to the summit. The recently refurbished (and

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Snowshoeing BNRC’s Clam River trail.

Hiking BNRC’s Alford Springs trail.

flat) 12.7-mile Ashuwillticook Rail Trail originates in Adams and passes through some surprisingly wild country on the way to its southern terminus at the Berkshire Mall.

The woodland trails at 100-year-old Hilltop Orchards a 187-acre working apple farm, orchard-to-can cidery, and winery in Richmond—offer tri-state views (and photo ops) at the top and a tasting room with roaring fire as your end-of-trek reward.

Rugged adventures can be had at 500-acre Kennedy Park, which has 15 miles of groomed trails and can be accessed by two parking lots—one near downtown Lenox and another at the Arcadian Shop on Route 7.

Stockbridge is home to two trails, accessed at the end of Park Street. Take the picturesque footbridge over the Housatonic River, cross the railroad tracks, and look for a giant boulder bearing trail signs. Turn left to take Laura’s Tower one and a half miles to the summit where a historic fire tower offers 360-degree views; on a clear day, you can see the Catskills to the west and the Green Mountains in southern Vermont to the north. (Continue past the tower to connect to trails leading to Beartown State

Forest, described below.) Turn right to take a one-mile journey through Ice Glen, a glacial ravine that harbors ice and snow into summer—and was just inducted into the national Old Growth Forest Network. At the south end of the glen is reputedly the tallest Eastern Hemlock in the state (if not all of New England), towering some 132 feet tall and over 10 feet in girth.

No fewer than seven state forests and reservations span the county, all bona fide woodland playgrounds (visit mass.gov/orgs/ department-of-conservation-recreation). The Mohawk Trail State Forest—named for an historic Native American footpath that connected the Connecticut and Hudson River Valleys—is only 10 miles from North Adams. There you can take the 30-mile Mohican-Mohawk Recreation Trail along the original route on former rail corridor, woodland path, and rural roads.

The 11,000-acre Pittsfield State Forest offers 30 miles of trails that follow the crest of the Taconic Mountain Range separating Massachusetts and New York. October Mountain State Forest, the largest in Massachusetts (with parking in Lee), has an extensive trail network that winds through 16,500 acres. The 1.5-mile Benedict Pond Loop Trail, which links to the AT, is a popular draw in the 12,000-acre Beartown State Forest, headquartered in Monterey (and named for the black bears that share the land). Former cross-country ski trails have also been restored, leading past the ruins of a lodge. Bonus: These three properties all allow snowmobiling.

At Mount Washington State Forest, you can take in panoramic views from (among others) the signature 6.1-mile Alander Mountain Trail up to the summit and back, or take the easier (0.7-mile) walk across state lines to Bash-Bish Falls Massachusetts’s highest.

Ah, waterfalls: The Race Brook trail, with parking on Route 41 in Sheffield, climbs along three-tier Race Brook Falls. The wood-and-meadow trail loops at Jug End State Reservation, in South Egremont, and cuts across streams. Both lie within Mount Everett State Forest

The peaks in and around Salisbury are the tallest in Connecticut. The challenging Undermountain Trail, a few miles over the border on Route 41, can be used as a day hike or jumping off point for greater excursions.

Southern Vermont, our neighbor to the north, is also brimming with outdoor opportunities. A great way to get your mind around all the possibilities is to visit bennington.com/ soar by the Southern Vermont Chamber of Commerce, with descriptions and links for hiking in the area.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Others may grumble but we say: Bring it on!

Gear Up >>Here

Most of the resorts and ski centers listed here have rentals and retail shops, but you can also find equipment and other essentials at the following locations.

Inhabiting a weathered red brick building along Route 23 in South Egremont, Kenver (kenver.com) has been serving generations of skiers since 1959. The new owners have updated the interior but kept the same level of service and the popular trade-in program, which is great for growing kids—or for trying out different types of skis.

The Arcadian Shop (arcadian.com) is another favorite outdoor recreational haven that’s conveniently located on Pittsfield Road in Lenox—the parking lot is also a trailhead for Kennedy Park. Cross-country skis and snowshoes round out the Alpine and telemark (combo Alpine and Nordic) offerings.

Tucked behind Main Street in GB, Black Diamond Tuning Center (facebook.com/BlackDiamondTuning/) is the place for binding service or a pre-season tuning. Trust Mike to get your skis and boards in tip-top shape for serious carving or dialing in (um, nailing tricks for the uninitiated). Then head to nearby Fluff Alpaca (fluffalpaca.com) for apres-ski apparel and Barrington Outfitters (barringtonoutfitters.net) for ice cleats, snow boots, and other cold-weather apparel.

All three locations of Berkshire Bike and Board (berkshirebikeandboard.com)—Great Barrington, Pittsfield, and Hudson, N.Y.—sell snowshoes along with helmets and apparel.

Pittsfield has it in spades: Plaine’s (plaines.com) is a onestop shop for new and used boards, skis, boots, poles, helmets, goggles, and clothing—plus it offers tuning and custom boot fitting. Locals swear by The Garden (gardenma.com) for its selection of boards and boots and friendly, knowledgeable staff. Second-hand equipment can be found at Instant Replay

(facebook.com/BerkshireInstatReplay/), where the inventory runs the gamut but is especially good for kids’ gear. Ready to trade in your own equipment? They’ll take it on consignment.

The aptly named Ski Fanatics (skifanatics.com) in Lanesborough is run by people with over 100 combined years of experience. In addition to stocking the usual stuff, this is where to take your boots to get stretched or fit with custom orthotics. (If your boots don’t fit, odds are you will quit!) You can also deduct the price of demos if you end up purchasing them.

In Adams, Berkshire Outfitters (berkshireoutfitters.com) rents and sells new and used cross-country and downhill skis and boots as well as snowshoes. It even sells roller skis to help you stay in shape for XC skiing during the off season—and it’s located across the road from the Ashuwillticook Rail Trail, where roller skiing is apparently a thing.

With four locations in Southern Vermont, Equipe Sport (equipesport.com) is where outdoor enthusiasts go for skiing, riding, snowshoeing, and telemarking equipment and tune-ups. The flagship store is minutes from Stratton’s base in Rawsonville; the West Dover shop is located on the Mount Snow access road. Both have a separate shop, Mtn Riders, that caters to the snowboarding community.

The multi-level First Run Ski Shop (stratton.com/firstrun) in Stratton’s Mountain Village has the newest gear and apparel along with a ski and snowboard tuning shop with fast turnarounds.

Bondville-based Starting Gate (startingate.net), located a quarter mile from the Stratton Mountain access road, is the area’s exclusive dealer for Atomic, Fisher, and Head skis as well as Kjus, Mountain Force, and Phenix (among other brands) apparel.

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day trip

Wilmington, Vermont: A historic village with shops, skiing, and Green Mountain scenery

By Phil Holland

Exuding New England charm

with a breathtaking Green Mountain backdrop, Wilmington could be mistaken for a quaint village that’s simply resting on its lovely laurels. But unlike others in the area, the town rebounded from a natural disaster with good old-fashioned Yankee determination. Now is a good time to pay a visit. On August 28, 2011, the north branch of the Deerfield River, gushing with rains from Tropical Storm Irene, burst from its banks and in fifteen minutes flooded historic downtown Wilmington to a depth of six feet. A young woman lost her life, swept away by the torrent. In terms of infrastructure, Wilmington was the hardest hit town in a state that saw widespread devastation.

Cut to the present and you will see that the town has rebuilt itself in remarkable fashion. Dot’s Restaurant, the social center of town and once wrecked by the waters, invites locals and visitors alike for coffee and hearty diner fare from a muchfortified foundation. Other businesses remodeled inside while rebuilding outside to appear as their former selves. It took $13 million and intense community effort—including from second home-owners—to put the town to rights.

Even COVID couldn’t stop the ongoing recovery. In fact, as soon as pandemic conditions allowed people in the Northeast to move about, not a few headed for Vermont, which was for a long time the safest state in the nation (the joke was that Vermont had social distancing already). Suddenly towns like Wilmington (pop. 2,200) got discovered by a wider public. Some travelers decided to stay, and others keep coming back. The rebound is “through the roof,” says Wilmington Inn co-owner Charlie Foster.

You, too, can discover Wilmington.

For one thing, it’s walkable. West Main Street (Route 9) is the main shopping district, and there’s plenty of parking in the lots behind the south-side shops. The cross street at the center of town (Route 100) has places to eat, drink, and park. A map of walking trails accessible from downtown is available from the Visitors Center at 21 West Main, which also provides free WiFi and a restroom. The view from the Reardon pedestrian bridge over the river is worth the easy stroll in all seasons.

Many winter visitors head directly for the slopes. It was Mount Snow, first developed in the mid-1950s some 10

miles north of Wilmington, that put this region on the map for Northeast ski enthusiasts. What began as the brainchild of a visionary outdoorsman is now one among an array of international skiing destinations owned by Vail Resorts. Vail has made major investments in the mountain, including two highspeed detachable chairlifts new for this season. Mother Nature dumps more than 12 feet of snow on Mount Snow in an average winter; sophisticated snowmaking equipment fills in when the weather is erratic. Mount Snow was one of the first ski areas to provide for snowboarders, and several Olympians have trained there. Skiers will find trails suited for all ages and abilities. In addition to the mountain’s own amenities, shops offer food, clothing, and equipment in nearby Dover and West Dover.

Cross-country skiers have a ski area of their own less than 20 minutes west of downtown Wilmington: Prospect Mountain in Woodford, Vermont, run as a non-profit corporation dedicated to providing excellent, affordable Nordic skiing and snowshoeing to all. (See page 46 for a full run-down on all ski resorts in the area.)

You don’t have to be a skier to enjoy winter Wilmington. Heading to the shops is its own form of fun. There’s something for everyone; many December visitors do all their holiday giftbuying in this town. The shops are all festooned with greenery and the mood is festive.

“Maple Syrup, Cheese, and Things That Say Vermont,” says the sign outside the 1836 Country Store on West Main. Never mind that the first thing you see as you enter is a large stuffed giraffe and a jaguar (a stuffed jaguar). The animals are part of a well-made menagerie from Melissa & Doug, the company that’s also responsible for a range of sturdy wooden toys. Delve deeper and you will find cheddar and maple syrup, and fresh fudge made with local butter. There are old-time candies, and clothing with Vermont designs, and flags, and cards, and cookie cutters in two sizes—and so much more.

Quaigh Designs has been a Main Street presence for 55 years; the name refers to a traditional Scottish drinking cup,

of which the shop stocks a variety of examples in pewter. It also carries woodcut prints by Mary Azarian, cards by Vermont artists, paintings, photographs, pottery, jewelry (especially Celtic designs), and beautiful sweaters and woolen goods from Scotland. Lilias MacBean Hart, the proprietor, is part of the family that operates a woolen mill there that—as a sign in the store will inform you—wove the fabric for the kilt that King Charles III recently wore to his mother Queen Elizabeth’s funeral. It also wove the exquisite throws that you (a commoner) can buy in this one-of-a-kind store. “If I’d had a business plan, I’d have closed long ago,” Hart says.

Towards the west end of downtown stands 802 Spirits (Ratu’s Liquor and Market), a Vermont State liquor store that is also unique. For one thing, there’s the music, a funky reggae playlist compiled by Christian Engel, an owner with roots in Fiji (where Ratu means king); you can follow Engel (“ratuvt”) on Spotify. Though small, the store is loaded with interesting bottles. Not only does Ratu’s stock spirits from Vermont distilleries and a wide selection of Vermont brews, they also have Pisco for the Chilean and Peruvian workers who come on visas every year to work at Mount Snow. And they carry wines, kombucha, CBD products, cigars, and coffee—all to island rhythms.

Coming soon (if not already here) is Ratu’s Cannabis Supply, adjacent to the liquor store, also managed by Engel and his wife Jen. Wilmington voted two to one (twice) to approve recreational cannabis sales. The first Vermont stores opened October 1. Ratu’s completed application was pending at press time, but they have checked all the compliance boxes for a highly regulated industry, including sourcing all product from Vermont, and they’re looking forward to approval from the State’s Cannabis Control Board. You’ll just have to drop in and see. By the way, Vermont prohibits puffing in public.

In another vein, but only a few doors away, is Pickwell’s Barn, a well-stocked boutique that has been around since 1994—it’s another Irene survivor—and sells fashionable clothing

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From left: Quaigh Designs, 1836 Country Store, Vermont Live Edge Natural Wood Design.

and accessories for women on two well-timbered levels. The clientele is loyal, the staff experienced and helpful.

A short drive away on the west end of town sits The Vermont Bowl Company, now more than 50 years old and still under the direction of master turner John McLeod, who crafts wooden bowls of every size and shape along with cutting boards and distinctive serving pieces. Under the same large roof is Vermont Live Edge Natural Wood Designs, with a wide assortment of slab tables. Follow your nose next door to the Starfire Bakery, which arrived this past summer and is open Thursday through Sunday. The sourdough loaves are perfect for sandwiches, the pastries and cakes first-rate—and worth the detour.

Sure enough, the food is good in this town, whose unofficial emblem is the retro neon sign for Dot’s (open from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.), only one of many pleasant places to order a cup of Joe or a tasty meal. The Village Roost on West Main is another favorite spot for beginning a day or grabbing lunch. Jezebel’s Eatery nearby is a dependable choice for “farm-fresh comfort food” in a warm atmosphere. The Anchor, on 100 South, a short walk from the center of town, serves New England seafood in cozy

Bartleby’s Books (est. 1989) moved to a former carriage house on Main Street in 2009. Two years later came Tropical Storm Irene, turning Wilmington’s main thoroughfare into a river and ruining $300,000 worth of books just before foliage season. Yet by Thanksgiving the store was back in business, setting an example of resilience that inspired other businesses to come back, too. Today the store stocks a wide range of titles, with special sections devoted to children’s books, board games, and books on Vermont.

From top: Dot’s Restaurant, Starfire Bakery.

surroundings. Not far is 19 South Main (“Eat, Drink, Love,” says the sign), which makes terrific pizza and more in a spacious interior that often fills up on weekends. Alpenglow bills itself as an “alpine bistro” and serves a champagne brunch Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Over at 100 North, The Old Red Mill Inn has closed but will be reopening as the home of Valley Craft Ales (run by the same owners as Starfire Bakery), brewing beer, serving pizza and offering lodging.

Don’t tell, but the Crafts Inn, by the river in the town center, offers visitors access to its enclosed porch, heated pool, and single racquetball/pickleball court for only $10 a day, subject to availability. Saturdays are your best bet.

You’re free to spread the word about Sprague Maple Farms, eight minutes south of Wilmington on Route 100, open on weekends and every day in maple season. Buy from the friendly producers and see how the precious syrup is made.

HOW TO GET THERE FROM THE BERKSHIRES:

From Pittsfield, take Route 8 north through North Adams straight to Vermont Route 9; head east on 9 and you’ll be in Wilmington in about nine minutes.

artperformance &

year round, more than ever

By E.M. Marcus

Winter is coming, and with a seemingly endless merry-go-round of global events keeping us glued to the 24-hour news cycle, there has perhaps never been more to gain from culture and the arts. This season, unplug from the mayhem and lean into the sustaining nourishment of the Berkshires’ world-class museums, galleries, theaters, music venues, cinemas, and dance studios.

VISUAL ARTS

At The Norman Rockwell Museum, revisit your youth through March 12th, with Eloise and More: The Life and Art of Hilary Knight, a seminal retrospective of children’s book illustrator Knight’s highly influential work that focuses on his depictions of Eloise, the little girl who lives at the Plaza Hotel as described in the beloved books by Kay Thompson. Featured in the exhibition are Knight’s early advertising assignments, magazine illustrations, Eloise merchandising sketches, concept art and posters for Broadway musicals, painted fashion designs, personal photographs, sketches, concept art, and final work for several books he illustrated and some that he wrote, as well as a folding screen inspired by Eloise.

At MASS MoCA, pay homage to the queen—no, not Elizabeth II but Lady Pink, who began her iconic, Banksy-esque, pseudonymical existence writing graffiti on the subway cars, neighborhood buildings, and industrial ruins of 1979 New York. She has a show on view through November featuring

collaborative works created with artist Jenny Holzer, famous for her use of pasted posters and applied stickers. The iconoclastic pair met in the late 70s and early 80s, both having “infiltrated public spaces in New York with their respective artworks,” and are gloriously reunited in this show, which closes at the end of November.

Deep Water, on view through summer of next year, continues a rolling exhibition of personal and archival photography bearing witness to the lives and artistic feats of jazz and blues signature contributors throughout the 50s and 60s‚ Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, Thelonious Monk, Billy Holiday, and more. The show examines how political and cultural leaders like Malcom X

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and James Baldwin drew inspiration from such artistic freedom and unbridled individual spirit to help fuel and evolve their activism.

In Amy Yoes: Hot Corners, the site-specific extravaganza repurposes the 142-foot space in MASS MoCA’s Building 6 into a multi-chamber matrix of immersion to explore the idea of adaptability. The installation’s five rooms act as “shifting set pieces for a variety of functions including artmaking, socializing, reflection, and performance.” and cross-pollinate Yoes’ passion for architecture, period interiors, design, and decorative arts.

Amy Hauft’s large-scale installations, titled 700,000:1 | Terra + Luna + Sol, transport the viewer into cosmically reoriented spaces, inspiring us to consider our physical and spatial relationship with other planetary bodies as well as our own celestial home. Accompanying 700,000:1 will be a new installation commissioned by MASS MoCA and created in residency at the museum about the “unfathomability and allure of the moon.”

At The Clark, Haitian-born artist Tomm El-Saieh’s largeformat abstract works are on display through January 8th in his show Imaginary City. El-Saieh’s shifting, improvisational canvases, without any preparatory studies or outlines, test the boundaries of our senses and our preconceptions about the nature of abstraction. The artist, a native of Port-au-Prince, has been unable

to revisit his homeland due to the political instability there, and boldly confronts his experience of displacement in these works.

At the nearby Williams College Museum of Art, the very same Mr. El-Saieh, is guest curator for a show of works by fellow Haitian artist Frantz Zéphirin, whose richly detailed and stylistically exuberant paintings offer viewers “a window into the deeply mystical and spiritual nature of Haiti, the land of many mountains.” Zéphirin’s zoological-metaphysical cocktail of themes includes the contrast between Vodou vs Christian rituals, as well as an “ever-expanding cosmology of the spiritual world,” a key to understanding the inner life of Haitians and the kaleidoscopic array of flora and fauna which surrounds them.

Also at The Clark, starting November 19th and running through February 12th, is On the Horizon: Art and Atmosphere in the 19th Century. Rather than focusing on landscapes and seascapes, this show focuses on artists whose subject was more fleeting: the very air around us. Inspired by scientific advances of their moment, these painters sought the challenge and poetry of representing that most ephemeral of the elements. On the Horizon features artworks by Joseph Mallord, William Turner, John Constable, Honoré Daumier, Charles Meryon, James McNeill Whistler, and Auguste Louis Lepère, among others.

Opposite left: Hilary Knight, Eloise in Paris, 1957. From left: Amy Hauft, 7000,00:1 | Terra + Luna + Sol; George Rowe, The Malvern hills from the summit ot the Worcestershire Beacon, color lithograph on paper is part of the On the Horizon exhibit.

art & performance

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Opening December 17th and running through March 12th, Promenades on Paper: 18th Century French Drawings from the Bibliothèque nationale de France will display many of the secret and precious possessions of the Gallic nation’s collection, whose vast and unfathomable libraries remain largely unexplored. The Clark is organizing this first exhibition of the library’s 18thcentury French drawings; the selection features 86 studies, architectural plans, albums, sketchbooks, prints, and optical devices “spanning the domains of natural history, current events, theater design, landscape, and portraiture.”

Also, consider paying a visit to The Clark’s exquisite permanent collection, which remains a reason to drop in time and again, and peruse its website for lectures and events.

In southern Vermont, The Bennington Museum continues to present its definitive collection of paintings by local hero and global icon Grandma Moses, and through December 31st

David Gil Turns 100 will feature works by the ceramicist and potter who founded Bennington Potters in 1948. The exhibition celebrates what would have been Gil’s 100th birthday. Though best known for his line of functional dinnerware, in the 1970s Gil created a run of decorative platters and sculptural faces that he referred to as “Artware,” drawing inspiration from his artist friends who were active at Bennington College in the 60s and 70s, including Helen Frankenthaler, Kenneth Noland, and Jules Olitski.

Through December 31st, explore the role of map-making in community life with Perspectives: The Story of Bennington Through Maps, a collection presenting the changing role of cartography throughout the history of the town, from the maps produced by European colonists showcasing their American conquests to later documents celebrating civic progress and marking historic events.

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From left: Anne-Louis Girodet, Italian Sketchbook, chalks, graphite, pen and ink, sepia wash is part of the Promenades on Paper exhibit; David Gil Turns 100

MUSIC

Not content merely to dazzle your visual senses, MASS MoCA continues its commitment to multi-disciplinary artistic expression in the form of ongoing music events: On November 19th, Taylor Mac & Matt Ray in Conversation and Song offers a dynamic dialogue and preview of theater artist Mac’s new project, The Bark of Millions, featuring original music celebrating queer luminaries throughout history. On December 3rd J. Hoard, who recently won a Grammy award for his songwriting contribution to Chance the Rapper’s hit “No Problem,” displays a panoply of musical ability across a shifting spectrum of genres, compositions, and arrangements that fuses “the core of the Black church with the allure of Broadway.”

On November 13th, The Clark will hold its Performing Artists in Residence Concert, featuring its resident musicians Jeewon Park (piano) and Edward Arron (cello), who will be joined by “an exceptional trio of musical collaborators in presenting an inspirational afternoon of great music” featuring works by Schubert and Dvořák.

The Colonial Theatre offers a rich assortment of musical delights throughout the winter, starting on November 12th with A Tribute to Bon Jovi as performed by BonJourneyNY, a dedicated tribute band that has twice sold out the capacious halls of the venerated Pittsfield institution. On November 18th, join Rev Tor and Friends for One Last, Last Waltz. After 10 years

spent performing The Last Waltz LIVE in venues and festivals across the U.S., Tor and his coterie will roll into Pittsfield for their final performance, back where they began their journey at the Colonial a decade ago.

The Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center, always reliable for a marquee event, has a full slate of concerts to keep you humming all winter long. On December 9th, Deer Tick comes to town; the modern rock quartet offers this whimsically terse self-description: “Deer Tick is a band. They are from Providence . . . Deer Tick likes to rock out. Listen to Deer Tick.”

On the 17th of December, Strings Attached with John Pizzarelli & Jessica Molaskey presents the world-renowned, multi-talented duo in a musical evening of standards performed by a “Django Reinhardt-esque” group comprising guitar, violin, and bass, offering audiences a Proustian head-trip to yesteryear’s smoke-filled jazz clubs of Paris’ Latin Quarter.

On March 17th, Scott Bradlee’s Postmodern Jukebox: Life in the Fast Lane Tour will make a stop at the Mahaiwe to celebrate the greatest 20th-century musical genres, accompanied by jubilant renditions of recognizable hits from our own era, brought to life by a cast replete with the most exciting vocalists, instrumentalists, and tap dancers of our day.

Close Encounters With Music continues its season of world-class classical and chamber concerts on December 11th at

From left: Taylor Mac & Matt Ray, Deer Tick.

art & performance

the Mahaiwe with Grand Piano Trios—Beethoven’s “Ghost” and “Archduke,” and then on February 18th at Saint James Place with Town & Country— Mendelssohn and Dvořák, showcasing the technical mastery of the German Romantic composer and the rich Slavic folk tradition of his Czech counterpart. Back at the Mahaiwe on March 26th, “Pictures at an Exhibition”—A Gallery Stroll features Mussorgsky’s 10-part work as well as a collection of pieces by Granados, Liszt and Debussy. Then, on April 23rd, witness a “mellifluous blend of vigorous intensity and dramatic import” at From Bach Brandenburg to Appalachian Spring with Manhattan Chamber Players, a virtuoso, tour-de-force performance by a group that has become widely and deservedly known for its jaw-dropping musical prowess. Three more events round out the season: the annual Luncheon Musicale benefit concert at a private club in Lenox on May 7th; The Escher String Quartet‚ Tchaikovsky, Ravel, Ruth Crawford Seeger at the Mahaiwe on May 21st; and the June 11th Gala Concert: Schubert

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“Trout” and Schumann Piano Quintet, also at the Mahaiwe.

The Bennington Museum will hold a free concert on November 12th entitled Music at the Museum presents Michael Wimberly, an evening of music with accompaniment by cellist Nathaniel Parke and pianist Yoshiko Sato as Wimberly takes the audience on a rhythmical journey showcasing his range as a percussionist, composer and improviser.

And check web sites for the steady stream of musical events at Dewey Hall in Sheffield and The Egremont Barn in South Egremont, where you’ll find hoe-downs, open mic nights, touring indie bands, and karaoke extravaganzas.

The local music scene has been revitalized with the reincarnation of two new hot spots in Lenox—Apple Tree Inn and Gateways Inn—where you’ll find great music in intimate settings. And music is back, along with a new menu, at the renovated, relaunched but still comfortably informal Lion’s Den at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge

Manhattan Chamber Players.

PERFORMING ARTS & FILM

Shakespeare & Company continues its tradition of gathering 500 students from 10 local area high schools to create and perform 10 individual, full-length productions of Shakespeare’s plays, known as the Fall Festival of Shakespeare. The ribcrushing attendance and exultant audience enthusiasm of this innovative educational odyssey will be storming the Tina Packer Playhouse again this year from November 17th to 20th; advance reservations are recommended.

Then, On December 3rd, Shakespeare & Company and the Berkshire Mountain Comedy Arts Festival present Kevin Bartini & Friends, an evening of comedy featuring Bartini as Master of Ceremonies and two other headlining acts: comedians Jim Mendrinos and Carole Montgomery—good reason to smile as winter tightens its icy grip.

At Berkshire Museum’s The Little Cinema, National Theatre Live will once again be keeping us entertained and intellectually stimulated through the winter, broadcasting from the South Bank in London with Game of Thrones alumna Emilia Clarke as Nina in Anton Chekov’s The Seagull, screening in Pittsfield from the 18th to the 20th of November; The Guardian described it as a “radical, stripped-back, strangely gripping production.”

Further south, the Mahaiwe also offers London National Theater in HD, with The Seagull showing there on November 19th, followed by Much Ado About Nothing starring Katherine Parkinson of The IT Crowd and John Heffernan of Dracula, on December 3rd, which you can also catch at The Clark along with London’s National Theatre Live’s production of Jack Absolute Flies Again, a new comedy by Richard Bean and Oliver

Chris adapted from Sheridan’s The Rivals. This “spectacularly entertaining” show features a rollicking WWII narrative in which, after an aerial dog fight, Pilot Officer Jack Absolute flies home to win the heart of his old flame.

Opera fans are in luck: Both the Mahaiwe and The Clark offer Met Opera Live in HD performances all season long. On November 5th, Verdi’s La Traviata is sure to shake the very foundations of the theater, and a decidedly robust series follows it with Kevin Puts’ The Hours starring Renée Fleming on December 10th, Gordiano’s Fedora on January 14th, Wagner’s Lohengrin on March 18th, Verdi’s Falstaff on April 1st, Strauss’ Der Rosenkavalier on April 15th, and finally Terrence Blanchard’s Champion on April 29th. Opera fans have much to look forward to.

The Colonial Theatre will host a dynamic dive into the world of mentalism on Saturday March 25th, as Colin Mochrie presents HYPROV (with Master Hypnotist Asad Mecci),

Clockwise from left: The Egremont Barn, Much Ado About Nothing, Champion.

art & performance

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a mind-bending, participatory experience in which 20 randomly selected volunteers from the audience will be placed under hypnosis, their inhibitions banished, and their minds rendered a master manipulator’s plaything.

Though Jacob’s Pillow’s main season has concluded, if you are a member at the $500 level or would like to become one, consider signing up for Pillow Lab: 2022-2023, a year-round incubator of new work hosting ten artist residencies this fall, winter, and spring. A rich lineup of events will delight you through the doldrums of winter with cutting edge performers like Michael Sakamoto, Sonya Tayeh, Jennifer Freeman, Mythili Prakash, Faye Driscoll, Camille A. Brown, Aakash Odera, André Zachary, Larissa Velez-Jackson (Yackez), and Miguel Gutierrez

When it comes to film, the Mahaiwe continues to lead the charge for specialty cinema in South County, with a nostalgic rollout of screenings throughout the season: take a trip down yellow-brick-memory-lane with timeless favorite The Wizard of Oz on November 26th, and holiday institution Miracle on 34th Street jerking tears and pulling heartstrings on December 16th. Keep checking in at the Mahaiwe website throughout the season to catch more screenings, lectures, and special events.

In the North County, The Clark will show free films throughout November: on the 10th, multidisciplinary artist Agnes Varda’s “kaleidoscopic” documentary Film and Art: Mur Murs looks at Los Angeles’ many thousands of murals in this eccentric and sincere investigation into the purpose and necessity of public art.

And, of course, don’t forget the area’s other cinemas when you’re looking for first-run entertainment beyond your TV screen or streaming device: The Triplex Cinema in Great Barrington, the Beacon Cinema (offering heated recliners) in Pittsfield, The Moviehouse in Millerton, the Crandell Theatre in Chatham, and Time and Space Limited in Hudson all showcase diverse and engaging lineups from obscure and fascinating documentaries to the latest Hollywood franchise bonanzas.

HOLIDAY

Berkshire Theatre Group’s The Colonial Theatre isn’t holding back any festive cheer: The Wizards of Winter whiz into Pittsfield on December 3rd for a rip-roaring rock-and-roll holiday spectacular, featuring former members of The Trans-Siberian Orchestra, Def Leppard, Rainbow, Alice Cooper, Blue Oyster Cult, as well as veteran Broadway and theater performers. This 11-member ensemble “boasts soaring vocal harmonies, precision string instrumentation, powerful percussion and stunning keyboard work” in a nostalgic yuletide barnburner for all ages.

On December 11th, attend The Doo Wop Project Holiday Show, featuring stars from Broadway hits Jersey Boys, Motown: The Musical, and A Bronx Tale. After honing their style on the Great White Way, The Doo Wop Project works to adorn 21stcentury hits in five-part harmony and return doo wop favorites to the American stage, resuscitating old-school holiday classics

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From left: Miracle on 34th Street, Faye Driscoll.

WORKSHOPS, LECTURES AND SPECIAL EVENTS

At The Clark: On November 15th, Bennington College fixture Jordan Reznick will explore Indigenous Ecological Science and Photographic Technologies in the West, particularly how the “intergenerational manipulation of plant communities practiced by Indigenous peoples shaped the technological and aesthetic makeup of the photographic medium during the decades following the American invasion of California.”

On December 6th, Jeremy Milius of the University of Oxford will explore the visual and moral content of John Ruskin’s beloved and renowned watercolors in Ruskin Unpossessed. In Hilton Als on Diane Arbus in Manhattan on December 8th, lauded writer and art critic Hilton Als will delve into a particular aspect of the haunting, iconic work of Diane Arbus, namely the isle of Manhattan, which became a key collaborator in her work and where so many of her underseen, marginalized subjects called home.

In Conversations with Artists on February 4th, renowned furniture designer Jomo Tariku discusses his design process and his relationship to the history of design itself. In the lecture Like Trees on February 7th, Jonathan Flatley discusses “liking” trees, as opposed to “loving” them. As people “like” they also “become like,” posits Flatley, as he explores his theories through others’ work: Richard Powers’ 2018 novel The Overstory and Zoe Leonard’s signature photographs of trees.

On November 20th, The Bennington Museum will host The Shaftsbury Quilt: A Bennington Historical Society Presentation. Carol Corey-Dziubek will display and discuss the nature and history of this remarkable quilt, which has been in her family since 1888, and which contains the names of 96 people and their genealogical information. Corey-Dziubek will conduct an overview of quilt types, the construction of this particular quilt, and investigate the lives of several individuals featured on the quilt, as well as the nature of the political climate of Vermont circa 1888.

Twinkle, twinkle: Winterlights at Naumkeag has quickly become a holiday tradition (and was named a “Top Ten Public Holiday Light Display” by USA Today). On weekend evenings from November 23rd through January 7th, three of the Gilded Age estate’s gardens sparkle with thousands of shimmering, artfully designed lights creating a magical spectacle for the whole family, complete with hot chocolate or cider and other refreshments.

And The Mount presents Nightwood, running from November 11th to January 1st, an innovative and immersive sound-and-light experience set against the backdrop of Edith Wharton’s historic home and gardens. Wander along the illuminated three-quarter-mile route through the woods and gardens for “an ethereal experience that evokes wonder and awakens the imagination.”

like The Drifters’ “White Christmas”, The Temptations’ “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer”, and Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons’ “Santa Claus is Coming to Town.” Don’t worry, they won’t be able to resist throwing in a few recent hits—“This Christmas” and “Last Christmas” may well make their increasingly obligatory and celebrated appearances.

On December 18th, Come Home for the Holidays: A Colonial Family Concert will showcase performances by some of the area’s most revered musical artists, featuring the dulcet tones and winning spirit of Berkshire Theatre Group’s in-house BTG Youth Chorus, who are also hosting the event. The concert is in support of BTG educational programs and will present appearances by Gina Coleman, Kathy Jo Grover, Beth Maturevich, Wanda Houston, Billy Keane, Diego Mongue, Ed Moran, Rev Tor and Jack Waldheim with The Shire Mountain Holiday Band featuring Dan Broad, Dave Brown, Benny Kohn, and Conor Meehan.

On the same day, Hershey Felder Presents: A Musical Surprise for Holiday Time blurs the lines between music, film, and audience participation in the online premiere of this innovative piece by Hershey Felder.

On December 17th at Saint James Place in Great Barrington, the Aston Magna Music Festival will mark the 30-year tenure of Daniel Stepner as Artistic Director at A Baroque Holiday Celebration. The program will feature the iconic crystalline beauty of Vivaldi’s Winter with soloist Edson Scheid, as well as Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos Nos. 3 and 6, and Corelli’s Christmas Concerto

And on December 31st, Berkshire Bach is back at the Mahaiwe, to ring out the old year with the Brandenburg Concertos

Berkshire Bach.

BERKSHIRE WEDDING GUIDE:

The People & Places That Make it Happen

By Evelyn Battaglia

At least that’s the rose-colored-lens description. A certain pro paints a more realistic picture:

“A wedding is loosely organized chaos,” says (half-jokingly) Taylor Garrett of Taylored & Thyme, a new wedding and event planning service that’s been garnering strong reviews. “You can’t control 150 other people or the weather. You can only control yourself and the circumstances that put you into that situation.” Her advice? Go with the flow. Enjoy the journey. And lean into the warm embrace of the uber-talented pool of Berkshire-based vendors whose collective purpose is to make your “I do!” day match your vision— even if that means sending you to fellow pros should their own calendar be full. No kidding: With a projected 2.6 million couples tying the knot nationwide, 2022 has seen a wedding boom unlike anything since 1984!

That palpable close-knit comradery is, beyond the breathtaking scenery, what sets the Berkshires apart from other top wedding destinations. “All the vendors here are about community over competition,” says photographer Rebecca Castonguay of Moments

with Ada, who along with Taylor has built her nascent business primarily through peer referrals.

Being in a group that works together consistently —and greets each other with high-fives—makes the day of the event that much more seamless, according to Casey England of CRISP Catering. “It puts the clients at ease too—they know they are in good hands with people who are colleagues and friends.” And now more than ever, couples are “striving to create a space where the setting, food, and florals work together to create a cohesive atmosphere that honors the beauty of the Berkshires.”

Or as Luke Franco of Tiny Hearts Farm puts it, “Taking a step back and imagining the room filled with your people is when it starts to be special. A wedding is just a big celebration. You have to make sure you are able to enjoy it. Find the right people to plan the day and then trust them to do their best work.”

Herewith is your guide to trusted planners, photographers, venues, caterers, florists, and cake artists in the region. Congrats, mazel tov, and felicidades!

Just as a marriage is a union of two people as one, a wedding is an ensemble, with each component playing off the other to create a result that is grander than its multiple moving parts.

Opposite page: Photo by Dear Edith and Lily at The Mount. Above: Photo by Elaina Mortali.

PLANNERS

You don’t have to work with a wedding planner, but by matching you with the right vendors and prioritizing your budget on what matters most, a point person can end up being a smart investment.

That’s true even (especially) if you are marrying at a private space—you have to replicate what a staff would normally do. If you are planning a weekend-long celebration, do note that event coordinators at specific venues generally don’t help with other than on-site set-up and logistics Their primary client is the location, too, for which they are stewards of the property.

That’s why Oskar Hallig and Mike Zippel of Only in My Dreams Events call themselves the glue that keeps everything together. “Sometimes you end up with a mix, where couples have picked their caterer and venue but maybe not the rentals or flowers and we are able to fit those elements into the overall design,” Hallig says.

Some planners, including high-end ones like Magdalena Events, offer both full and partial services. But book in advance —most no longer take “month-of” clients

Taylored & Thyme, for example, requires all contracts to be signed and the preliminary details figured out by May 1 of the

preceding year. “It becomes too hectic after that. Even trying to book 2023 clients during the 2022 season was hard enough,” says founder Taylor Garrett. She offers tiered packages with varying degrees of oversight that each couple can customize. “Ultimately it’s about what level of stress I can take off their plate. For some it’s handling the transportation and hotels, which is usually a pretty big task, whereas others say they’re just going to book a block of rooms and provide numbers for local cabs.”

Danecca & Co. also offers a la carte packages for design (website, invitation, and overall event), planning, photography, floral, and specialty bar in addition to its Grand (full-service) Package. The dynamic duo behind this in-demand business is Rebecca Daly and Danielle Pellerin—both Berkshire natives with a combined 20-plus years of experience.

Jessy Turner of Birdhouse Events only offers full coordination (for a base fee of $5,000), either at her own spectacular hilltop venue, Ice House Hill Farm, or other locations. She is also the designated planner for the Norman Rockwell Museum.

Above: Planning by Danecca & Co.; florals by Daisy Stone Studio; photo by Elaina Mortali. Opposite page, from left: Interlaken Inn; photo by Elaina Mortali. Bloom Meadows; photo by Dear Edith & Lily.

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Even if you can plan and design your wedding, you simply can’t capture it—well-intentioned nephews and camerawielding friends aside. The Berkshires boasts established pros—Christopher Duggan, Tricia McCormack, Elaina Mortali, Eric Limón—that rival any big-city shutterbug.

“It’s more than just showing up and taking photos,” says Jocelyn Vassos of Dear Edith & Lily, another highly regarded photographer. “I always do a site visit with the couple to walk through the flow of the day and then work with them on a timeline to keep things flowing, whether or not the couple has a planner.” She recently raised her fee to $4,900, which she says is in the middle of the road for the area, and which will help limit the number of weddings she works on to a more sane 25 per season—and allow her to fit in more family portraits. (“I love, love, love taking those!”)

Christina Michelle, who often seconds Vassos on shoots, Sadie Elizabeth, and Amy Inglis of

Love are making names for themselves, while Christina Lane (among others) is an established name in the community.

Rebecca Castonguay of Moments with Ada had her first full slate of weddings in 2022 in addition to her high-end editorial work and boudoir portraits (a way of giving back to the community, as many of the subjects are victims of domestic violence). She offers three packages: Elopement ($450), Elite Wedding ($2,200), and Deluxe Wedding ($3,400), with optional add-ons for videography and photo albums.

Her big takeaway from this season is that “people have gotten back to the point of the ceremony, and that’s really beautiful. As a photographer it’s my job to tell that story, to tell everyone why they are getting married.”

Avida

VENUES

Wedding spaces befitting destination status run the gamut, from Gilded Age mansions to world-class cultural spaces (MASS MoCA, The Clark, Jacob’s Pillow, Tanglewood’s Linde Center for Music and Learning) and everything in between—including Berkshire Botanical Garden and exclusive spas Canyon Ranch and Miraval (for smaller gatherings). Many, including Roeliff Jansen Park and TurnPark Art Space, have jawdropping views.

“We are very proud of hosting weddings at The Mount,” says Susan Consolati, wedding coordinator for Edith Wharton’s historic landmark. According to Kelsi Polk, director of food and beverage, weddings in 2022 ranged from 70 to 200 people. “About 40 percent of couples have planners, up from previous seasons.” The Mount only hosts one wedding per weekend, so no surprise it is booked for 2023. September is booking first for 2024 along with holiday weekends and June. New this year: “We’ve introduced putting a tent in the courtyard of the house rather than on the lawn, based on client requests,” Polk says.

Other turn-of-the-century cottages include Ventfort Hall, Chesterwood, The Wheatleigh, Gateways Inn, The Kemble (now part of Shared Estates Properties), Seranak and Highwood (both at Tanglewood), and Blantyre (currently closed for renovations with an unannounced reopening date).

Rustic-yet-refined barns—including at Bloom Meadows and Crissey Farm—are a cornerstone of the Berkshire brand.

At Gedney Farm, the Event Barn can accommodate up to 250 people all year long (it’s got A/C and heat); larger gatherings can happen under a tent on 50 acres. Plus on-site lodging is available in a renovated dairy barn, complete with granite fireplaces and large-tile hot tubs.

Stonover Farm, which holds weddings in late May, throughout June and September, and in early October, has a soaring 130-year-old barn for 175 guests (or larger weddings can be accommodated by renting tents). Lodging for 12 to 14 people is also available at the luxury inn. “All weddings are catered by Mezze or a combination of an approved caterer who works with an approved wedding planner,” says owner Randy Grimmett. Quaint New England churches are also yours for the taking, or opt for a secular ceremony at Saint James Place, a former church that’s now a state-of-the-art performance space. All are welcome too at Hancock Shaker Village, where its iconic Round Stone Barn and historic village provides a stunning backdrop.

Or check out North County hot spots TOURISTS, a retro–chic hotel, and recently updated The Williams Inn. Looking for a post-industrial vibe? Greylock Works inhabits a rehabbed mill; The Stationary Factory is in the former Crane & Co. paper plant.

Set on three wooded acres, John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant hosts (and caters and plans) tented weddings for up to 220 people or 70 people (plus 32 on outside terrace) in the

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From left: The Clark; photo by Dear Edith & Lily. The Lakehouse Cottages of the Berkshires; photo by Dear Edith & Lily. Opposite page, clockwise: Chesterwood; photo by Elaina Mortali. Ventfort Hall; photo by Christina Michelle. The Williams Inn; photo by Moments with Ada.

renovated 18th-century farmhouse-cum-eatery. Interlaken Inn and Race Brook Lodge are more rustic locales

Speaking of farms: Cricket Creek Farm (known for awardwinning cheese) and fourth-generation Holiday Brook Farm (where couples get to stay in the Cottage farmhouse) both roll out the welcome mat—complete with cows grazing on verdant pastures.

A new crop of venues has also sprung up to meet the wedding boom.

Winbrooke, a 1915 manor on 33 lush acres overlooking Tyringham Cobble, opened (softly) in the summer of 2022—and is generating lots of buzz. The name is a nod to Brooke Astor, who lived there for a period of time.

Owners Amy and Nick Felix completely restored the property over three years, replicating original details that weren’t reparable and otherwise preserving original architecture. Their focus is on luxury weddings with a maximum of 120 guests. Inside there’s a ballroom and adjoining bar that’s “100 percent period authentic.” Outside is a gravel courtyard and plenty of lawn space for tents. They are holding weekly tours and booking for 2023 from May through October.

Also new on the scene, Cottage Farm of the Berkshires offers full-weekend or one-day packages at its tucked-away location, where the four-season pavilion barn seats 50, or you can have up to 250 guests under a tent on the ceremonial wildflower field. Lodging is also available in the three-bedroom cottage for up to six guests. (Pricing is provided on the website.)

The Lakehouse Cottages of the Berkshires is a weekend venue that can sleep 50 to 60 guests and accommodate a total of 150 guests for the event under a tent from end of May through mid-October. Couples are required to rent the entire property and guests pay for their space like a hotel blocking. For a oneday event, The Proprietor’s Lodge is under the same ownership and a boat ride away. It can hold 250 with the dance floor or 100 during winter in a beautiful room overlooking the water and upstairs in the ballroom. Catering is provided at the Lodge but not the Lakehouse. Events coordinator Nicole Andrus says about

80 percent of couples do not have planners, with more this season than in the past.

Even ski resorts are getting in on the action (see “Trail Mix” on page 46 for a complete rundown). Turner and Castonguay, who collaborated (as planner and photographer respectively) on a last-minute wedding at Bousquet (the resort’s first ever) when another venue fell through, had high praise for the spot. “It’s onsite catering was great at helping us copy and paste that vision to the new location,” Turner says.

Besides having a brand-new lodge, Bousquet (now owned by Mill Town Capital) is landscaping the top of the mountain for ceremonies with views of Greylock Mountain (currently they take couples up there for photo ops only). “Our niche market is 75 to 150 guests and as the fifth oldest continuously operating ski resort, we get people who want to marry here because there’s a strong sentimental attachment,” says general manager Kevin McMillan. Prime season is May through June and September through early November, but you are welcome to inquire about other months.

Catamount events coordinator Victoria Wright says they are hosting one wedding per weekend in 2023 from May through October. On-site catering is in the plans for the future.

Venue options include brand-new Catamount Lodge, which holds 300 guests plus another 100 on the mezzanine, and smaller Berkshire Lodge, which holds 200 people and includes The Fat Cat Tavern, a taco and tequila bar that holds 90 and can be rented on its own.

Lodging is available at the resort’s two buildings, which have a total of 10 rooms that open to a pond and a fire pit— and where couples can continue their party after the reception as there’s no noise ordinance. Plus more lodging is available at the Little Cat Lodge at the foot of the mountain.

Jiminy Peak also offers ample accommodations in addition to four scenic venues at its Hancock resort. CRISP’s England has noticed a shift toward non-venue locations, be it an historic estate or private property. “While logistically challenging to create something from the ground up, this offers couples complete freedom to carry out their vision.” (And CRISP and other vendors are there to help you realize that vision.)

Note that some venues have their own tents while others require you (or your planner) to order rentals. Mahaiwe Tent and Classical Tents are your trusted options, but order early as they are in high demand.

FLORISTS

Of all the line-items in a budget, flowers can often cost more than couples expect. But it’s hard to put a price on these natural beauties, which transform even familiar venues and provide brides with an eye-catching accessory— even though tossing the bouquet is now passé.

They’re also a symbol of new beginnings dating back to ancient Rome when brides wore flowing garlands. Thank Queen Victoria for birthing the modern bouquet in her 1840 royal wedding to Prince Albert, when she was seen round the world carrying a clutch of flowers.

Botanicals—and their of-the-moment installation incarnations—play an even bigger role in ceremonies today, replacing the religious altars of yore and bringing life to blankslate tents and post-and-beam barns. Sylvan is in.

Above: MASS MoCA; flowers by Crocus Hale; photo by Love & Perry. Top right: Tanglewood; Carolyn Valenti Flowers; photo by Elaina Mortali. Opposite page, clockwise: Thistle & Thorn. Market 32 Florist; photo by Moments with Ada. Flowers by Gabriela Salazar (Mexico City); photo by Elaina Mortali.

According to Crocus Hale, bridal party bouquets and centerpieces could range from $5,000 to $10,000 depending on the design. “However, I have only done one wedding at those price points in the last year. Everyone wants installations, which drive the cost closer to $15,000 to $20,000!” (Carolyn Valenti is in the same league and has three decades of experience as a preferred vendor at Tanglewood and other major venues.) Chalk that up to the popularity of massive overhead floraldesigned chandeliers and “clouds,” which have been having a lingering moment. (“Thanks a lot, Instagram,” Hale laughs.)

In a sign of the times, Susie Hanna of Daisy Stone Studio is shifting from full-scale services to specialty rentals (arbors and chuppas, lanterns and votives) and larger-scale floral installations. “It’s all about collaboration and working together with other wedding vendors to create a spectacular design. The large-scale installations add the wow factor, and the specialty rentals provide the design touches that take it to the next level.”

Hanna likes how these installations help fill large spaces— and create grand entryways for guests. For example, she created five-foot-tall tree centerpieces for a reception in the soaringceilinged Studio E at Tanglewood; at The Mount, she placed votives and large urns just outside the tent entrance for a statement welcome.

If budget is an issue, Hanna suggests using fewer flowers and more votives and lighting on the tables and repurposing urns or trailing aisle pieces from the ceremony to the reception. “While guests are at cocktail hour our staff will relocate those pieces, and it’s nice for the client to get double-duty out of them.”

Hale is also a proponent of repurposing: “Yesterday we did two big stands of local hydrangea to frame the ceremony; after that we hauled them into the van and up to the tent to create an entryway with large lanterns. It was lovely.”

Luke Franco of Tiny Hearts Farm says his operation (which he runs with his wife Jenny Elliott) is a little unconventional in three ways: “We’re a big cut-flower farm in Copake and don’t buy-in any flowers that aren’t part of our production.” Secondly, although they don’t do full-service design, they do have a robust webstore with photos, descriptions, and pricing for available arrangements, which include by-the-piece bouquets ($75 to $225), personal flowers (crown, wristlet, boutonniere from $25 to $125), and ceremony/reception arrangements ($15 to $450). “We want everyone to feel like they can get what they want and can afford.”

And they offer bulk buckets ($105 to $185) for DIY arranging. “A lot of couples want to arrange the flowers themselves. It’s a great way to stay on budget and spend time with family and friends making fun arrangements.” (He recommends having Elliott make the more technical pieces like bouquets.)

Ashley Davidson of Thistle & Thorn has also done two DIY flower bars, including for a bride and friends of honor at Bascom Lodge at Mount Greylock, who made their own bouquets and hairpieces. Another bridal party made boutonnieres for the men. “A lot of brides are more relaxed and want it to be fun and informal.” Davidson is a one-stop shop (literally: find her at the Lanesborough Local store) for flowers as well as larger installation pieces, with no minimum fee. Recent projects include “trees” made with branches cut from her own property to hide tent poles, a horizontal piece (using a broom handle) that hung behind the head table at the Berkshire Botanical Garden, and a giant floral chandelier at Bloom Meadows.

To help streamline the process for clients, Davidson has created visual “menus” with photos for different categories— ceremony, bouquets, wearables, arbors, chandeliers, plants— so they can see the different options. Then, as they work together over the months, she creates Google slideshows for those same categories. “Couples can remove and add items without all the back-and-forth emails.”

And in recognition of the cost factor, Davidson plans to preserve bits of flowers in resin candles and jewelry as keepsake gifts for bridesmaids. She also encourages the bridal party to put their bouquets in vases at the reception and then to take them home. “They’ll last for days in a vase!”

Township Four Floristry & Home, owned by Jed Thompson and Nathan Hanford, is another shop (now in The Red Lion Inn) that offers custom arrangements or full-scale, on-site wedding work (with a minimum fee of $5,000) throughout the year; check the online calendar for weekend availability.

The Rose Thief is a full-service floral design studio (weddings begin at $3,500); Ruby Farm Florals has packages ranging from $2,000 to over $6,500.

CATERING

The farm-to-fork spirit spills over into weddings in the Berkshires—it’s often a primary reason people want to get married here in the first place (having come here for the food scene and stayed for the scenery). And creative caterers are making food prep an interactive part of the whole experience.

Take Heirloom Fire, which cooks seasonal and often foraged food on-site over open fires—and owner James Gop and team wear dapper attire that suits the bespoke, back-tothe-land menu. The Swell Party by Tom Ellis offers its own take on this theme.

For more live action, SoMa Catering offers your choice of food truck with custom-designed menu, a professional pit smoker for Southern-style barbecue, or hand-tossed pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven.

CRISP Catering, run by Casey and Matthew England, is known for open-air, fire-focused cooking with a commitment to using sustainable, farm-sourced products. “Allowing people to see what we are cooking lends to the overall experience but also lets them appreciate all the local offerings” Casey says. She’s the “hands-on” partner who responds to the initial inquiry, provides the general method and pricing breakdown, and works with couples to customize its seasonal menus. Although they’ve done more floating food stations after cocktail hour this past season, with heavier hors d’oeuvres moving through the space, England says most couples want that moment where you are sitting and sharing food at tables before going into the end-of-night portion. She estimates that 80 percent of clients choose family-style rather than plated service. “This goes hand-in-hand with our interactive model and keeps everyone connected.”

up-to-date events listings at BerkshiresCalendar.com

Above: Carolyn Valenti Flowers; photo by Elaina Mortali. Opposite page, clockwise: CRISP Catering. Kate Baldwin Food.

Kate Baldwin of Kate Baldwin Food on the other hand says most of her clients still opt for plated meals. “Family style seems like a convivial idea but I’m not sure how relaxing it is when you don’t want to interrupt the flow of conversation to ask for the salmon across the table.” She was, however, planning a family-style first course, with a passed salad and boards of cheese and bread and olives, followed by pre-selected entrees. Buffets are not always the most budget-friendly option either. The cost of food per person is higher but labor is less than plated and vice versa. “I find plated much more efficient because we have a better handle on how much we need to prepare, with much less waste,” Baldwin says.

The groundwork for her menus starts with the client’s vision of the day and food preferences, but what’s in season locally is equally important. “Then the adventure begins for me with inspiration coming from those parameters. I try to push couples a little bit beyond their comfort zone. They worry about pleasing everyone but you can do that without thinking too much about Uncle George’s strictly meat-and-potatoes diet.”

With the surging popularity of signature drinks and batch cocktails, she has been working with bartenders to make infused herbal and botanical elements with an eye toward the season. (She provides juices and mixers but not the alcohol.) Case in point: For a wedding at the Berkshire Botanical Garden, she made a thymehoney-lemon simple syrup for a drink called Nectar in the Garden, featuring a special-made gin by Berkshire Mountain Distillers and topped with Cava and bee pollen, “which is pretty and gardeny.”

For a full-service option, the accomplished team at Mezze Catering (offshoot of Mezze Bistro & Bar) focuses on mid- to large-scale weddings and offers soup-to-nuts planning on top of

its Mediterannean-inspired menu. KJ Nosh Catering (offshoot of the Greenock Country Club restaurant) also offers an event planner in addition to banquet-style menu options.

Other restaurants that specialize in large-scale catering include Naji’s Mediterranean and Number Ten (for 20 to 100 people). Be sure to ask your favorite haunt to see if it caters, too—planner Hallig says a couple who loved Zinnia’s Dinette did just that and got their wish. (And Zinnia’s has its own spacious lawn.)

Brennan’s has been catering weddings and other events for over three decades—and is a preferred vendor at The Lakehouse and other venues.

CAKES

Showstopper cakes adorned with exquisite hand-crafted sugar flowers and other details are the specialty of Mamie Brougitte Cakes, where artist Marion Attal also makes her own butter, buttermilk, and vanilla extract for the layers inside. Seasonal mix-and-match cake, soak, filling, and frosting flavors are listed on the website, which are all customizable; she ships tasting boxes to non-locals and does virtual consultations. Large cakes are her stock in trade, but she is happy to make smaller ones (with a $2,000 minimum). She also walks you through the structural and environmental elements—temperature, humidity, sturdy tables. “Make sure the cake is well-lighted, too!”

Attal notes a current fascination with the wonderland world and a shift away from lush peonies and dahlias toward stalky snapdragons, lavender, and foxgloves—”flowers that propel movement and dimension and tell more of a story.” Lately she’s been incorporating cardinals, hummingbirds, and other winged creatures “because they are so elegant yet add a touch of enchantment and whimsy.”

For a sweet touch, Attal will mount the sugar details into a glass dome as a display-worthy keepsake (which lasts a lot longer than a cake slice stashed in the freezer).

Sydney Casino of Simply Sweet (and Culinary Institute of America alum) makes custom cakes of all sizes as well as full dessert bars. “Over the years I’ve had a lot of couples skip the large tiered cake and opt for a smaller cake to cut accompanied by a dessert bar. I still have many couples who opt for a large cake, but design-wise they keep it pretty simple for the most part. White icing with fresh flowers and eucalyptus is my most requested design.”

Cakes with pressed flowers is her favorite trend to date along with caramel, chocolate, or gold “drip” cakes

Popular dessert bar options include doughnuts, especially for fall, cookies, cupcakes, cake pops, cheesecake bars, and mini pies. Cannoli and macaron towers are also trending. Or you can have your cake and macarons too, in one striking dessert.

Clockwise, top left: Glass dome keepsake, Mamie Brougitte Cakes. Mamie Brougitte Cakes. Simply Sweet. Opposite page, clockwise, from top: Township Four Floristry & Home; photo by Moments with Ada. The Mount; photo by Tricia McCormack Photography.

TRADITIONS old&new

For starters, the micro wedding is not as sticky as pros thought it would be. Elopements have also ebbed this year. The sweet-spot guest list falls between 90 and 150.

That said, Andrus has seen an uptick in weddings with fewer than 70 guests in the winter at The Proprietor’s Lodge. “Everyone wants a big summer wedding until it’s 98 degrees outside in July,” caterer England says. There’s less competition for venues as well.

Peak-season weddings are mostly full-weekend celebrations, “which speaks to how special the Berkshires is to the couple,” planner Turner says. Picture welcome drinks or dinner for everyone on Friday (farewell stuffy rehearsal dinners), after-parties following the reception, and a send-off brunch on Sunday. Plus, action-packed itineraries during the day.

Per photographer Vassos, “People are trying to squeeze everything they can out of having everyone in town.”

If a weekend cocooned with family and friends is not your idea of bliss, know that Saturday-focused ceremonies still exist. And planners appreciate being able to sprinkle these less-involved (though often still splashy) events throughout the season.

Regardless of size, Dad is not the only one walking the bride down the aisle. “My favorite is when both parents get to do the honors,” Vassos says.

Smaller wedding parties, with only one or two people standing with the couple, are also catching on. “Being in weddings in your 20s and 30s is almost a full-time job and a hefty financial commitment,” Turner says.

In that same vein, Vassos reports more brides are getting ready with just their Mom. “There’s a lot less pressure and people can relax and hang out in a different way.” Couples still want the getting-dressed photos—and first-look photos are a must.

Regarding flowers: The ethereal meadow vibe is still trending, though florist Hale says the uptick in MASS MoCA weddings has generated a stream of clients who want more modern interpretations that resonate in that space.

Greenery is either in or out depending on who you ask. Taylor is seeing deeper-hued Italian ruscus replacing eucalyptus as table runners, along with classic palettes with muted overtones instead of Boho-style rust and burgundy. “Roses are coming back but in shades of toffee, champagne, blush pink— and a single stem as a bridesmaid bouquet.” At The Mount, Consolati found the flowers to be more understated and whimsical this year. “There was a good amount of repurposing as well, including donating the flowers to nursing homes—that was a really lovely surprise.”

There’s wiggle room when it comes to dinner—or no seated dinner at all. Turner had receptions with a continuous cocktail hour starting with lighter passed hors d’oeuvres before the heavier apps come out on a table. Or a heavier cocktail hour and then a lighter meal with smaller entrees. “Younger people are into this but parents sometimes push back.”

All agree that the cake-cutting ceremony is on its way out, other than doing it quietly for photos. Some are even swapping a big cake with a small sweetheart cake as a focal point at the reception. Or no cake at all. Consolati observed a preference for milk and cookies and passed two-bite desserts. “That may be a product of COVID, but it has stuck.”

Taylor sees ice cream bars as a big trend, as are mini milkshake shooters, fruit pies and crumbles, tiramisu— whatever the couple’s sweet tooth is. “Weddings are becoming a moment for couples to host an experience for their guests and they want to cater to as many people as they can, regardless of food allergies or dietary restrictions.” Plus a bunch of fun treats signals fun—as does dancing!

On that note, Turner has noticed more live music—and less cheesy cover songs and trendy “YMCA” group dances.

Consolati agrees. “The music has been interesting. I’ve seen DJs come in with live musicians and provide an exciting, interactive experience. We also see a lot of string quartets for ceremonies.” Polk recalls a wedding at The Mount where musicians led the wedding party from the ceremony to the reception.

For planner Hallig, DJs are still the default, citing locals MusiChris DJ & Lighting Service, Millennium Music, and DJ BFG Spinning, it seems, is where it’s at—and is still a surefire way to get the party started.

Let’s salute today’s couples, who are shedding traditions and grabbing onto new ones with the changing times.

weddings at

PHOTOS:

Over the past 30 years, Gedney Farm has earned its reputation as one of the premier wedding and event destinations in the Northeast.

Our pastoral setting serves as much more than a bucolic backdrop. It colors every detail of your day. Our dedicated and experienced staff is here to look after the particulars, so you can enjoy the peace and tranquility of your surroundings.

Our team works hard to deliver the wedding you envisioned when you first started planning your big day We know that, even with arrangements in place, there’s still so much on your mind. By all that we do, we take the time concerns and worries off the table. We are there to welcome you and your guests to a truly tranquil environment that will honor the importance of the moment and inspire you for a lifetime to come.

Phillips Ceremonies

Hearty Congratulations! Let me help make your wedding ceremony (the true beating heart of the day) meaningful, moving and memorable. Whatever your style and beliefs—faith-based, interfaith, “spiritual but not religious,” “traditional” or strictly secular, I’m expert at structuring the ceremony, writing the script, choosing readings and more. Together let’s make your Big Day shine bright!

Phillips Ceremonies

917-670-9293

PhillipsCeremonies.com

VENUE

MEN’S WEAR

Domaney’s Liquors and Fine Wines

Nestled in the heart of the Berkshires, Domaney’s has been family owned and operated since 1973. A full-service supplier for beer, wine, liquor, and essential drink needs. Providing expert advice for choosing the right products, quantities, recipes, and much more! Also providing sanitary drinking ice made in-house. We work closely with your caterer, so nothing is left neglected.

66 Main St., Great Barrington, Mass. 413-528-0024 domaneys.com

Crissey Farm

A moderately priced, “green” banquet facility, built in 2007, and located in the beautiful southern Berkshires of Massachusetts. We are a full-service wedding venue, offering:

• On-site ceremony space;

• Professional event coordination;

• Private bridal suite;

• Food and beverage service, including wedding cake. We are now booking for 2023 and 2024.

Rt. 7N, Great Barrington, Mass. 413-528-4844 crisseyfarm.com

PHOTOGRAPHER

Dear Edith and Lily

Jocelyn Vassos at Dear Edith and Lily specializes in lifestyle photography that documents and creates moments that are honest and real. Your wedding is a celebration; it should be fun and stress-free through it all. Jocelyn creates an experience that is supportive, relaxing and fun. She considers every couple she works with as dear friends.

Becket, Mass. 413-854-4805 dearedithandlily.com

Steven Valenti Clothing

There’s a reason Steven Valenti’s Clothing has won “Best Men’s Formalwear” in The Berkshire Eagle readers’ poll for several years now: our award-winning customer service. Whatever you need for your special day, from rentals to custom wear, from jazzy, colorful socks to elegant dinner jackets to fun sport shirts to fodoras for the whole party, let Steven Valenti’s dress you from head-to-toe.

157 North Street, Pittsfield, Mass. 413-443-2569 stevenvalenticlothing.com

JEWELER

Lennox Jewelers

The Berkshires’ premiere engagement and wedding band store, with diamonds of all shapes and sizes in stock and hundreds of wedding bands to choose from in all metals. Create your own unique rings with our cad/cam services in less than three weeks. Our prices and service are second to none.

165 Main St., Great Barrington, Mass. 413-717-4239 lennoxjewelers.com

OFFICIANT

BEER | WINE | SPIRITS

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