Day Trip: Wilmington, Vt

By Phil Holland

with a breathtaking Green Mountain backdrop, Wilmington could be mistaken for a quaint village that’s simply resting on its lovely laurels. But unlike others in the area, the town rebounded from a natural disaster with good old-fashioned Yankee determination. Now is a good time to pay a visit. On August 28, 2011, the north branch of the Deerfield River, gushing with rains from Tropical Storm Irene, burst from its banks and in fifteen minutes flooded historic downtown Wilmington to a depth of six feet. A young woman lost her life, swept away by the torrent. In terms of infrastructure, Wilmington was the hardest hit town in a state that saw widespread devastation.

Cut to the present and you will see that the town has rebuilt itself in remarkable fashion. Dot’s Restaurant, the social center of town and once wrecked by the waters, invites locals and visitors alike for coffee and hearty diner fare from a muchfortified foundation. Other businesses remodeled inside while rebuilding outside to appear as their former selves. It took $13 million and intense community effort—including from second home-owners—to put the town to rights.

Even COVID couldn’t stop the ongoing recovery. In fact, as soon as pandemic conditions allowed people in the Northeast to move about, not a few headed for Vermont, which was for a long time the safest state in the nation (the joke was that Vermont had social distancing already). Suddenly towns like Wilmington (pop. 2,200) got discovered by a wider public. Some travelers decided to stay, and others keep coming back. The rebound is “through the roof,” says Wilmington Inn co-owner Charlie Foster.

For one thing, it’s walkable. West Main Street (Route 9) is the main shopping district, and there’s plenty of parking in the lots behind the south-side shops. The cross street at the center of town (Route 100) has places to eat, drink, and park. A map of walking trails accessible from downtown is available from the Visitors Center at 21 West Main, which also provides free WiFi and a restroom. The view from the Reardon pedestrian bridge over the river is worth the easy stroll in all seasons.

Many winter visitors head directly for the slopes. It was Mount Snow, first developed in the mid-1950s some 10

From left: Quaigh Designs, 1836 Country Store, Vermont Live Edge Natural Wood Design.

miles north of Wilmington, that put this region on the map for Northeast ski enthusiasts. What began as the brainchild of a visionary outdoorsman is now one among an array of international skiing destinations owned by Vail Resorts. Vail has made major investments in the mountain, including two highspeed detachable chairlifts new for this season. Mother Nature dumps more than 12 feet of snow on Mount Snow in an average winter; sophisticated snowmaking equipment fills in when the weather is erratic. Mount Snow was one of the first ski areas to provide for snowboarders, and several Olympians have trained there. Skiers will find trails suited for all ages and abilities. In addition to the mountain’s own amenities, shops offer food, clothing, and equipment in nearby Dover and West Dover.

Cross-country skiers have a ski area of their own less than 20 minutes west of downtown Wilmington: Prospect Mountain in Woodford, Vermont, run as a non-profit corporation dedicated to providing excellent, affordable Nordic skiing and snowshoeing to all. (See page 46 for a full run-down on all ski resorts in the area.)

You don’t have to be a skier to enjoy winter Wilmington. Heading to the shops is its own form of fun. There’s something for everyone; many December visitors do all their holiday giftbuying in this town. The shops are all festooned with greenery and the mood is festive.

“Maple Syrup, Cheese, and Things That Say Vermont,” says the sign outside the 1836 Country Store on West Main. Never mind that the first thing you see as you enter is a large stuffed giraffe and a jaguar (a stuffed jaguar). The animals are part of a well-made menagerie from Melissa & Doug, the company that’s also responsible for a range of sturdy wooden toys. Delve deeper and you will find cheddar and maple syrup, and fresh fudge made with local butter. There are old-time candies, and clothing with Vermont designs, and flags, and cards, and cookie cutters in two sizes—and so much more.

Quaigh Designs has been a Main Street presence for 55 years; the name refers to a traditional Scottish drinking cup, of which the shop stocks a variety of examples in pewter. It also carries woodcut prints by Mary Azarian, cards by Vermont artists, paintings, photographs, pottery, jewelry (especially Celtic designs), and beautiful sweaters and woolen goods from Scotland. Lilias MacBean Hart, the proprietor, is part of the family that operates a woolen mill there that—as a sign in the store will inform you—wove the fabric for the kilt that King Charles III recently wore to his mother Queen Elizabeth’s funeral. It also wove the exquisite throws that you (a commoner) can buy in this one-of-a-kind store. “If I’d had a business plan, I’d have closed long ago,” Hart says.

Towards the west end of downtown stands 802 Spirits (Ratu’s Liquor and Market), a Vermont State liquor store that is also unique. For one thing, there’s the music, a funky reggae playlist compiled by Christian Engel, an owner with roots in Fiji (where Ratu means king); you can follow Engel (“ratuvt”) on Spotify. Though small, the store is loaded with interesting bottles. Not only does Ratu’s stock spirits from Vermont distilleries and a wide selection of Vermont brews, they also have Pisco for the Chilean and Peruvian workers who come on visas every year to work at Mount Snow. And they carry wines, kombucha, CBD products, cigars, and coffee—all to island rhythms.

Coming soon (if not already here) is Ratu’s Cannabis Supply, adjacent to the liquor store, also managed by Engel and his wife Jen. Wilmington voted two to one (twice) to approve recreational cannabis sales. The first Vermont stores opened October 1. Ratu’s completed application was pending at press time, but they have checked all the compliance boxes for a highly regulated industry, including sourcing all product from Vermont, and they’re looking forward to approval from the State’s Cannabis Control Board. You’ll just have to drop in and see. By the way, Vermont prohibits puffing in public.

In another vein, but only a few doors away, is Pickwell’s Barn, a well-stocked boutique that has been around since 1994—it’s another Irene survivor—and sells fashionable clothing

and accessories for women on two well-timbered levels. The clientele is loyal, the staff experienced and helpful.

A short drive away on the west end of town sits The Vermont Bowl Company, now more than 50 years old and still under the direction of master turner John McLeod, who crafts wooden bowls of every size and shape along with cutting boards and distinctive serving pieces. Under the same large roof is Vermont Live Edge Natural Wood Designs, with a wide assortment of slab tables. Follow your nose next door to the Starfire Bakery, which arrived this past summer and is open Thursday through Sunday. The sourdough loaves are perfect for sandwiches, the pastries and cakes first-rate—and worth the detour. Sure enough, the food is good in this town, whose unofficial emblem is the retro neon sign for Dot’s (open from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.), only one of many pleasant places to order a cup of Joe or a tasty meal. The Village Roost on West Main is another favorite spot for beginning a day or grabbing lunch. Jezebel’s Eatery nearby is a dependable choice for “farm-fresh comfort food” in a warm atmosphere. The Anchor, on 100 South, a short walk from the center of town, serves New England seafood in cozy

Bartleby’s Books (est. 1989) moved to a former carriage house on Main Street in 2009. Two years later came Tropical Storm Irene, turning Wilmington’s main thoroughfare into a river and ruining $300,000 worth of books just before foliage season. Yet by Thanksgiving the store was back in business, setting an example of resilience that inspired other businesses to come back, too. Today the store stocks a wide range of titles, with special sections devoted to children’s books, board games, and books on Vermont. From top: Dot’s Restaurant, Starfire Bakery.

surroundings. Not far is 19 South Main (“Eat, Drink, Love,” says the sign), which makes terrific pizza and more in a spacious interior that often fills up on weekends. Alpenglow bills itself as an “alpine bistro” and serves a champagne brunch Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Over at 100 North, The Old Red Mill Inn has closed but will be reopening as the home of Valley Craft Ales (run by the same owners as Starfire Bakery), brewing beer, serving pizza and offering lodging.

Don’t tell, but the Crafts Inn, by the river in the town center, offers visitors access to its enclosed porch, heated pool, and single racquetball/pickleball court for only $10 a day, subject to availability. Saturdays are your best bet.

You’re free to spread the word about Sprague Maple Farms, eight minutes south of Wilmington on Route 100, open on weekends and every day in maple season. Buy from the friendly producers and see how the precious syrup is made.

From Pittsfield, take Route 8 north through North Adams straight to Vermont Route 9; head east on 9 and you’ll be in Wilmington in about nine minutes.