Special Report • continued from page 8
Designing Women • continued from page 17
to keep assembling more and more brands. “I think there’s generally a desire to have one show under one roof, so I’m optimistic about that,” Nastos says. “I think that’s the key.” FN Platform exhibitors in Las Vegas felt retailers had their buys for the Spring ’11 season well-formulated. “Lots of orders were written and retailer growth was significant,” asserts Leslie Gallin, vice president of FN Platform. Exhibitors reported steady foot traffic and, according to Stephanie Unwin, global sales director for Leifsdottir (which debuted its collection of women’s designer shoes), the caliber of retailers at the show was impressive. Jim McCabe, vice president for Bass Wholesale, agrees: “Traffic was up, as was the enthusiasm of the buyers.” Regardless of which show they shopped, retailers were presented plenty of fresh trends for spring. The halls at OR reverberated the wellness message at WSA, with the explosion of minimalist constructions and barefoot running at the forefront. These ideas have moved beyond technical trail shoes into outdoor casual styles, and retailers said they’re thrilled to have this new story to tell their customers. “I was not smart or fast enough to pick up on Vibram’s FiveFingers early, but we’re ordering it big-time now,” said Lillie Gilbert, co-owner of Wild River Outfitters in Virginia Beach, VA. Major launches of pared-down product, like the new Minimus collection from New Balance, should help elevate the minimalist message of earlier entries, said Ben Cooke, general manager of The Running Company based in Ardmore, PA. “I hope it’s a category that can sustain itself,” he added. OR also showed vendors concentrating on core hiking and backpacking shoes for Spring ’11, proving the resilience of these categories as consumers look for affordable ways to enjoy the outdoors. Overall, the recession has helped the outdoor business, noted Brian Moore, vice president of global men’s footwear for Timberland. “When the economy goes bad, people flock to [brands and styles] they’re comfortable with, and that gave us a definite bump.” If outdoor and wellness cover the utilitarian bases, the more fashionoriented markets set the stage for a slew of new directions for spring. TASM buyers were hot for nude. In Daniblack’s suite, for example, silhouette didn’t matter as long as the shoes came in natural hues. Feminine styling—by way of laser-cut details at Doc Martens, Rieker’s collection of gem-embellished sandals, Claudia Ciuti’s dress shoes inspired by candy wrapper foils and a bevy of shoes accented with three-dimensional flowers—blanketed women’s categories. FFANY highlighted similar trends. Hester cited laser-cut florals; dusty earth tones; nautical stripes and bright patents; soft feminine pastels and flat sandals with ruching as important spring trends. In addition, she reports that wedges, kitten heels and flat sandals with a cork insole construction are “going great.” Dragos says Rialto is striking the right chord with ornamentation, including jewels, beads and sequins. Gemstones are also influencing color, as Comeau pinpoints turquoise and coral as popular colors in addition to the neutrals. At FN Platform, many designers bet on spring staples like wedges, espadrilles and platforms. However, exhibitors with new interpretations of these familiar silhouettes shone. Standouts included exposed platform heels from Marc Jacobs and a Jean-Michel Cazabat espadrille with jute rope creeping up from the heel to the upper. “Retailers are gravitating to natural linens, crocheted panels, raffia and neutrals,” says Maggie Finneran, brand manager for Unleashed by Rocket Dog. Leifsdottir’s Unwin and Nancy Espaillat, an account executive for Fossil Footwear, also reported positive reactions to chic neutrals and mixed materials, while other manufacturers saw an uptick of interest in tried-and true hi-tops for men, women and children dotting the Las Vegas Convention Center. Along such classic lines, McCabe says G.H. Bass Heritage products—from penny loafers to saddle shoes—caught the attention of both domestic and international buyers. The lace-up and oxford trends don’t appear to be letting up anytime soon, he adds, with the latest styles featuring woven leather or canvas accents. •
the wholesale world a natural next step,” she explains. “And, thankfully, Joe was ready to take a gamble on me.” In 2007 Titan acquired the Badgley Mischka Platinum license. It was the perfect opportunity for Palermo to follow a brand from its inception. “I was missing the feeling of creating something from scratch. That is something I loved from my days as an art student. I love that sense of not knowing what’s going to happen in the middle of that very personal experience,” she explains. Palermo left Macy’s West in the fall of 2007 and moved to Southern California, where she became the assistant designer for the new label. Leaving Macy’s West, however, was a difficult decision. “I saw the trajectory of my career in a very clear way,” she explains. “Yet with all the layoffs that happened shortly after I Betsey Johnson left, it proved to be a great decision.” pump by Palermo jumped right into an accelerated eduOuaknine-Soto cation in shoemaking and development. “I traveled to China with the lead designers and learned about making shoes in a very hands-on way. We were in the sample room, the last and heel factories, leather markets—you name it,” she recalls. The trip was a career benchmark, despite is difficulties. The first lead designer was let go. A second came on board, but was unable to hone in on the Badgley Mischka aesthetic. “Regardless, I watched and learned,” she says, noting it was a blessing in disguise that her mentors failed because the experience made her conscious of what makes for a solid brand identity. Titan was going to have to gamble on a third designer. “Our merchandiser knew I could draw and asked me to sketch some of my own ideas for the brand, so that when interviewing for the new lead designer, he or she could get an idea of what the brand meant,” Palermo explains. “I am still unaware of how the decision was made to hire me as the lead designer, but I can gather that my sketches were promising,” she jokes. Today, Palermo continues to try to keep each brand centered on a signature look. “I have to be in the right mood and mindset to work on a particular label. You just sort of know what kind of day it’s going to be when you wake up and you take advantage of that,” she adds.
FAMILY PRIDE As with all family businesses, conversation quickly turns to who will take over the Titan reins. According to Ouaknine, there is no timetable. “It depends on their progress,” he says. “It won’t be tomorrow, that’s for sure.” Both women choose to not think about it too much. “Running a company takes an unbelievable amount of knowledge regarding all areas of the business,” Palermo says. “Right now, we are totally immersed in designing and development. I think [a CEO candidate] would need to be hands-on in each department in order to understand how everything and everyone works together to function and grow.” Ouaknine-Soto says it is difficult for her to imagine doing what her father and Sal do each day. “[That day] seems so far away. They’ll be running Titan until the very end,” she says, smiling. In the meantime, the two women turn to one another for support. Palermo notes they don’t get to work together as much as they’d like. Unlike their fathers, who she describes as “attached at the hip” and “yin and yang,” Palermo says she and Ouaknine-Soto are lucky just to have a coinciding trip overseas. Still, they advise and support each other every step of the way. “We think differently, but we trust one another’s opinions,” Ouaknine-Soto says. “I’ve known Jess for so long. Even though we’re working at the same level and doing the same things, I’m so proud of her. I feel like I’ve watched my little sister accomplish amazing things.” Whatever the future may hold for the Titan daughters, their fathers have their backs. “We will always be there for free advice,” Ouaknine says. “And I’m sure we’ll be advising frequently, though over time that will fade, too.” He adds, “I can speak for Sal and say we are both proud of our daughters—proud with a capital ‘P.’ I believe being able to pass on a company to the next generation is a dream come true for any father.” • footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2010 37