Footwear Plus | March 2024

12 Proud Parent

Tony Adams, president of Halsa Footwear, is beaming about the potential the four-year-old comfort fashion startup shows.

By Greg Dutter

18 Trend Spotting

Combat boots, court kicks, cowboy boots and snow boots, oh my!

By Kathleen O’Reilly

22 Moving Swiftly

cover:

Dingo Brand Manager Ron Owens is repositioning the brand to ride a massive Americana lifestyle wave.

By

Greg Dutter

26 A Man in Full Fall wardrobe staples that raise the bar on seamless style.

By Kathleen O’Reilly

McCandliss;

Michael Macko; fashion editor:

O’Reilly; model: Joaquin Ibarra/Next Management; groomer: Scott McMahan/Honey Artists; stylist assistant: Daniel Johnson; photo assistant: Raymond Collette; production assistant: Eileen Viglietta.

EDITORIAL

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell

Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor

Rosemary O’Connell Art Director

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Mariah Walker Style Director

Ann Loynd Burton

Contributing Editor

Melodie Jeng

Marcy Swingle

Contributing Photographers

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From left: YY Nation wool hi-top; Dafna by Naot foam-padded slipper; suede trainer by Samuel Hubbard

On

Twisted X moc toe Chelsea boots; suit and turtleneck by Paisley & Gray; Hickey Freeman scarf; Alex Mill hat; The Tie Bar pocket square.

What are the Odds?

WALKING UP AND down the aisles and in and out of the adjacent ballrooms and meeting rooms of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) last month, various numbers streamed through my head. How many steps am I racking up daily? (North of 14,000.) Just how many shoe brands are there? Well, there were at least 1,800 at this show. I also wondered how many buyers were roaming around. That isn’t officially reported, aside from a five percent increase over the record number who attended the 80-year-old show last August.

TASM’s buyer attendance is quite impressive, considering the amount of consolidation the retail sector has gone through in the past 10 years. Indeed, the size and scope of TASM felt close to the old WSA Shows in Las Vegas. Granted, the booths weren’t as grandiose, but that’s not what this show is all about. It’s about keeping costs in check so attendees get the most ROI possible. And there would have been even more exhibitors if the space could have accommodated them. (The current waiting list includes about 160 companies.) Approximately $100 billion in retail footwear sales is up for grabs each year in the U.S. That’s quite an incentive to plant your flag in Atlanta, even if dwindling ranks of retailers mean the odds are not in exhibitors’ favor.

This issue features plenty of worthy contestants, as well as one who decided to leave our games—on his own terms. First up is Tony Adams, president of Hälsa and the subject of our Q&A (p. 12). Adams is a Shoe Games lifer, having started at age 14 working in his father’s store. After an impressive run in retail with various chains, he crossed into wholesale where he made a name for himself as a brand birther during a 17-year run at H.H. Brown. Adams constantly adapts and finds new ways to survive. His high retail math IQ is one of his key assets. Plus, he speaks retail—starting with not selling DTC. Then there is Adams’ genuine love of this industry. It’s a passion that burns just as strongly as it did decades ago. Combined, it makes Hälsa a Shoe Games contender of note.

Speaking of odds, I couldn’t help getting a Hunger Games vibe as I roamed the aisles. Certain districts, ones populated by established brands, were lively, while others were quieter, a la District 12. Everywhere I went, I sensed a Hunger Games–worthy kill-or-be-killed atmosphere. Neighbors are not friends in Trade Show land. Do the math: The odds of surviving in our business get more daunting all the time. You don’t have to be a DraftKings wizard to calculate what a longshot it’s becoming. And things are only getting tougher, as many retailers roll out private label collections primarily as a way to combat brands selling DTC. If Quinnipiac University took a poll of retailers right now, I’d bet the house that DTC would be issue number one.

Shelf space is thistight. And despte limitless online aisles, trying to stand out in that all-comers venue is the proverbial needle in a (humongous) haystack. You’re going to need a boatload of cash to shine.

Who will survive? Who might thrive? Who will get the cannon blast sendoff in memoriam? (At times, I really do feel like Stanley Tucci’s character, TV host Caesar Flickerman, in the movie version of The Hunger Games.) Our Shoe Games march on.

Next up is Ron Owens, vice president and manager of Dingo, our Brand Focus (p. 22). Owens is a rare example of a contestant coming out of a well-earned retirement and returning to the Shoe Games of his own volition. Owens has nothing left to prove after decades of success, including big runs with Candie’s and Sam & Libby. He could have kept playing golf. But like any true Shoe Games champion, the thrill of the competition and the opportunity to win (much bigger, potentially) was too tempting to pass up. Owens is repositioning Dingo amid a massive Americana lifestyle movement, a cultural tipping point that underpins his gameplan. Think Taylor Swift and Beyoncé combined in terms of influence. Dingo is definitely a Shoe Games player to keep an eye on.

Finally, we spotlight another long-time Shoe Games champion and his decision to call it a career. The latest installment in our A Note to My Younger Self series ( p. 25 ) is by Gary Weiner, former owner of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA. In classic Weiner fashion, he puts his own creative spin on the format by writing a note to his “current” self. Weiner’s reasons for selling his beloved third-generationowned family business to Comfort One Shoes last fall are equal parts pragmatic and poignant. Basically, he did the math and tallied more yesterdays than tomorrows. Grandkids trump spreadsheets. It’s one fine farewell—and a fitting place to end my latest recap of the Shoe Games. May the odds be ever in your favor.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Twisted X® is dedicated to creating comfortable, quality, and innovative footwear.

After ten years with over 1 million pairs sold, our “Original Driving Moc” still stands out in the western industry as the original standard of comfort.

Explore over 550 styles in casual, work, western and outdoor markets at TwistedX.com.

Copyright

Empire State of Mind

New York Fashion Week attendees embraced a bold, anything-goes aesthetic reflecting the mood swings of Mother Nature.

Photography by Marcy Swingle

Go Big

The Atlanta Shoe Market draws largest crowd ever.

THE GANG WAS and all there. The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) reported record exhibitor and retailer attendance at last month’s show at the Cobb Galleria Centre and Renaissance Hotel. Considering the industry consolidation over the past decade or so, that’s impressive.

“We had 16 percent increase in exhibitors (totaling more than 1,800 brands) and a five percent increase in retailers,” reports Laura ConwellO’Brien, executive director. What’s more, the buyers list featured big-name, first-time attendees, including Meijer, DSW, Anthropologie, Dillard’s, HSN, TJX, and Costco. “All the big box stores were here as were many leading independents nationwide, and the biggest take away was the collective positivity,” she says. The one area that needs improvement, Conwell-O’Brien notes, is more traffic at the new The Fashion Plaza section in the hotel. “We did our best, but it’s always a challenge directing retailers to new areas,” she says, adding, “It’ll get better this August when we take over the hotel’s Grand Ballroom located next door. That’ll add an additional 100 booths, which will definitely help draw more retailers to that area—and help accommodate the 160 brands currently on our waiting list.”

Michael Rich, founder/CEO of Psudo, had no qualms about traffic at the casual sneaker brand’s bigger, new digs located at the entrance to the main floor. “We were busy from start to finish with new retailers, as well as current customers lining up new shoes for later this spring and next fall,” he reports. “Buyers are looking for something new, and we happen to be one of those new things.”

Shawn O’Neill, partner and integrator for Comfort One Shoes, says TASM was “tremendous.” This marked the Mid-Atlantic based chain’s first Atlanta show since the acquisition of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA, and the breadth of exhibitors was ideal one-stop shopping. “That acquisition brought aboard a lot of new vendors, and the set up and ease of this show allowed us to accomplish more than other shows could allow,” he says. “We had a very heavy schedule, and we accomplished our mission.”

Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X Global Brands, reports this TASM was its best to date. It helps to come into the show with strong momentum. “Retailers were in a great mood because they had good sell-through in the fourth quarter and January for Twisted X products,” he says, adding, “They were excited to see what’s new from us, and they came ready to buy.” New product highlights include the extension of UltraLite X work boot construction into men’s casuals. “It was very well received, especially in our driving mocs that made the style even lighter for increased comfort and less fatigue,” Reddy says, adding that the technology will expand into women’s casuals soon. Black Star, the company’s more upscale, authentic Western brand, also saw a strong reaction. “We received great feedback on our new color profiles and wider breadth of collection,” Reddy says, adding, “The Western lifestyle market continues to grow in popularity.”

Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, reported strong traffic and feedback on its Artisan collection, notably the Certina and Loriini programs in women’s and the Un.Briley and Monahan programs in men’s. “I asked buyers to hang in there with me, and I think they’re glad that they did,” he says. “We had a strong reaction to the entire fall line, and we’ve already had early success this spring in athleisure with the Mayhill for women and men’s Mapstone. Buyers are gravitating to uppers with

All Black Footwear

Ayelet by Naot

Dansko

Django & Juliette

Javi

Black Star

Bos. & Co.

Smoky Mountain Boots

more fun and interest, like our metallic leathers.” Overall, Champion is upbeat about Clarks, TASM, and the industry. “The show was very busy, and it’s where our team opens a lot of new accounts,” he says. “Buyers are excited about the future, not just with Clarks, but with their businesses overall.”

Tony Adams, president of Hälsa, reports a similar upbeat consensus among attendees at TASM. Despite it being an election year and general economic uncertainty, he says buyers were on the hunt for new brands to add to their assortments. “Hälsa was busy from start to finish; we were working accounts past closing time on the last day,” Adams says. “We were busy adding new accounts for our spring collection, and the reaction to our fall collection was well-received.”

Ditto for Marty Rose, distributor of All Black Footwear. He reports TASM was back-to-back customers the first two days. “The general attitude of buyers was very upbeat, but still cautious because of weather challenges,” he says, noting its new Mod collection was received well. “Our buyers like that we continue to offer unique styles that aren’t found at other brands.”

Shoe Carnival Targets Midwest Expansion

Goal of 500 stores by 2028 is closer with acquisition of Rogan’s Shoes.

SHOE CARNIVAL’S AIM to be the “nation’s leading family footwear retailer” took another step forward with the recent $45 million cash acquisition of Rogan Shoes, a 53-year-old work and family footwear chain with 28 locations in Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Illinois. The acquisition is expected to generate approximately $84 million in sales and approximately $10 million in operating income, excluding transaction and integration costs, for 2024. Shoe Carnival now stands at 429 stores across 36 states and Puerto Rico. The store count is now at an all-time high for the 46-year-old Evansville, IN-based company.

Why Rogan’s, specifically? For starters, it’s an if you can’t beat ’em, acquire ’em strategy. “Shoe Carnival has been unable to establish the market-leading position in Wisconsin due to the strength of Rogan’s position and strong connection with the customer base,” says Mark Worden, president and CEO of Shoe Carnival. “With this acquisition, we shift from a small share position, with only three stores in the south of the state, to the number-one chain, with 28 total stores across the state.”

The move also extends Shoe Carnival’s footprint into Minnesota, providing a foothold to pursue future expansion in the region. “This is very similar to our acquisition of Shoe Station (2021), where they were the clear market leader in Alabama, Mississippi, and the surrounding Gulf region,” Worden says, noting that acquisition has exceeded ambitions. “The (Shoe Station) integration was completed faster than expected. Sales are growing, stores are expanding into new markets, synergies have been captured, and margins are growing.”

Rogan’s will be integrated under the Shoe Station banner over the next 18 months. Combined sales of the 60-store division are expected to surpass $200 million by fiscal 2025. “Rogan’s customer demographics, format, and broad product assortment fit well with our Shoe Station banner,” Worden says, noting that banner is the focus of the company’s organic growth. “With the addition of Rogan’s, Shoe Station strategically establishes a strong base to expand from both in the South and Midwest.”

There’s a lot to like about Rogan’s, as well as room to improve, according to Worden. “Over the past five decades, the Rogan family built a brand that is well known and trusted in the upper Midwest by providing customers the most compelling selection of work and family footwear products in the market along with great customer service,” he says. “With the scale of our $1 billion-plus corporation, we’ll be able to leverage our back-office capabilities, buying scale, CRM leading capabilities, and grow profits.”

Pat Rogan, CEO of Rogan’s, is retiring. Jim Rogan, president, will remain with Shoe Carnival as VP. The senior Rogan is excited about the deal. “We share a strong focus on customers and employees, and this transaction provides the additional scale and expertise to drive future growth, create efficiencies, and expand profitability with that shared focus as the foundation,” he states.

Kwame Baah

Rieker

Mario Lopez

Samuel Hubbard

Propét

Strive

Think!

Shoe Carnival CEO Mark Worden

IR Show Heads to Vegas this July

The move marks a return to a familiar shoe industry destination.

FOR DECADES LAS VEGAS and the shoe industry went together like slot machines and retirees. Twice annually, nearly the entire industry would converge in Sin City to get business done at the WSA Show. It was so big that, for a stretch, exhibitors filled the Sands Convention Center and the Mandalay Bay Convention Center. Exhibitors would erect small-scale cities in a “my-booth-is-bigger-than-yours” game of financial flexing. The effort even extended down to who had the plushest carpets. Well, those days are long gone, and much of the shoe industry has been absent from Vegas since.

Until this summer—if Gary Hauss, codirector of The IR Show, vision comes to fruition. The West Coast regional show is moving from San Diego to the Horseshoe Las Vegas (former Bally’s) on The Strip, for its July 28-30 edition. No offense to San Diego, it’s just that Hauss couldn’t get the preferred dates due to an overlap with Comic-Con, which overtakes the city. But Hauss is also of the firm belief that a shoe show belongs in Vegas. It just feels right.

“So many great shoe shows took place in Las Vegas,” Hauss says. “When we think Vegas, we think shoe show. So, we’re hopeful the move brings the industry back to where it all began.”

In addition to nostalgia factors, there are pragmatic reasons for moving IR to Vegas, according to Hauss. Convenience and cost, for starters. “You can fly there non-stop from most places, at reasonable costs, any time of the day,” he says. “Vegas also provides attendees hotels at affordable rates.” Then there’s the newly renovated Horseshoe Event Center. “The multimillion-dollar renovation makes this one of Vegas’s best new meeting locations,” Hauss claims. “Our guests will be able to walk directly

into the convention center from the hotel—no cars or walking in the heat.”

Then there’s the draw of Vegas. “The city is full of exceptional restaurants and things to do,” Hauss says. For those preferring to not stray far, a promenade connects the Horseshoe and Paris Las Vegas. Both feature award-winning restaurants, including Nobu, Gordon Ramsey Steakhouse, Guy Fieri’s Flavortown Sports Kitchen, and The Bedford by Martha Stewart.

So far, so good on the move to Vegas, reports Hauss. “Everyone seems excited and believe it’ll bring more retailers and exhibitors,” he says. “We’ve received calls from new vendors and retailers asking when they can register—and that was even before our January show took place. We’ve also heard from many reps that their retailers are talking about how excited they are about the move to Vegas.”

Tom Schweigert, sales manager for Ecco USA, is looking forward to a return to Vegas for several reasons. “It’ll be easier and cheaper for many accounts to attend versus San Diego,” he says, noting those higher costs include flights, hotels, food, and parking. “Also, Vegas is a destination city, and many people love it. It should give accounts another reason to attend IR.”

Shawn O’Neill, partner and integrator of Comfort One Shoes, say its team is on board with the move. “It should entice others to take advantage of the venue,” he says. “Plus, it’s that much earlier in show season, thus giving us a look at color and trend before Atlanta.” Shara McIntyre, owner of Hedi’s, a chain based in Carmel Valley, CA, will also be heading to Vegas this July. “Gary’s team has done a fantastic job creating an environment that encourages communication and camaraderie amongst vendors, retailers, and service providers,” she says. “We’re really looking forward to the Spring/Summer ’25 show in Las Vegas.”

Hälsa President Tony Adams believes the logistical advantages of Vegas should increase buyer attendance. “It should be easier for a lot of accounts who have some issues with getting to San Diego, particularly with retailers based in the Midwest,” he says. “And we’re in a growth mode, so any chance to work with new customers is always an exciting opportunity.”

Skechers Teams with Renowned Artist

The Vexx collab features signature doodles.

IN THE LATEST installment of its Visual Artist Series, Skechers has teamed with Vexx, a young artist who has captured the digital universe, galleries, and museums. Skechers x Vexx features his signature doodles and vibrant characters on a capsule collection of sneakers, apparel, and accessories for men and women.

“At just 24, Vexx has gone from strength to strength: teen prodigy, social media icon, creative force, visionary of digital media’s next generation,” says Michael Greenberg, president of Skechers. “His striking talent and captivating, inimitable designs have attracted everyone from collectors and dealers to galleries, auction houses, and museums. Featured on our topselling sneakers, this curated collection is a new way for Vexx fans to live, breathe, and walk in his imagination. We know these will resonate, like every medium he touches.”

“It’s been a priority for me to create without compromise, and Skechers celebrates that philosophy,” Vexx says. “They collaborate with diverse artists and give them the freedom to explore. It’s unique for a brand of this size to let independents drive their collections in new directions. Footwear as a canvas is interesting when you think of people from all walks of life walking in your art. That’s exhilarating and inspiring.”

Vexx’s work spans illustrations to massive murals. His creations have appeared at galleries worldwide, including his MOON exhibit at Amsterdam’s Moco Museum alongside Basquiat, Warhol, Kusama, Kaws, and Banksy. The artist has more than 3.8 million followers on social media and he has partnered with brands as diverse as Porsche and SpongeBob SquarePants.

Q&A

BY GREG DUTTER

PROUD PARENT

Tony Adams, president of Hälsa Footwear, is beaming about the potential his four-year-old comfort fashion startup shows.

OVER HIS LIFE-LONG career working retail and wholesale in the footwear industry, Tony Adams has helped give birth to many brands. In fact, during a 17-year stint with H.H. Brown, he became a brand birthing specialist, launching Sofft, Bionica, and Isola, among others. As soon as those brands could walk, Adams was transferred to another startup because management deemed him so valuable in the birthing process. Yet he longed to parent a brand all the way to adulthood, helping it blossom and reach its full potential. If only the stars would align.

That cosmic ordering began in 2019, when former H.H. Brown coworker and veteran designer José Sanchez reached out to Adams about launching a new comfort fashion brand then in the embryo stages. Sanchez was working for Suecos, a Spanish manufacturer specializing in occupational shoes. He saw a void in the marketplace for a new lifestyle brand led by a couple of comfort design patents he owned. Sanchez sought someone to bring the brand to life—someone who could get buyers to say yes. Adams was his first and only call.

“He took me to lunch and said, ‘I’m not going to launch a brand unless you’re a part of it,’” Adams recalls. “He said, I ‘really know how to sell shoes.’” Indeed, Adams had developed quite a reputation for his passion for selling at H.H. Brown. He was nicknamed “The Tornado” for his ability to sell multiple accounts simultaneously, whirling from one to the next while spinning out various styles from the collections. “I learned how to sell shoes working the floor of my dad’s store. When it was really busy you had to work three or four customers at once,” Adams says. “And selling shoes to consumers is really the same as selling to retailers: You’ve gotta love it and translate the passion that gets them just as excited by the shoes as you are.”

Sanchez had Adams at hello. “It’s fun launching brands, but this time it’s my brand. No one will take it away from me once it starts walking,” he says. “It’s an even more fun adventure.” Plus, Adams is a firm believer in Sanchez. “We go back 20 years, and he’s one of the most talented people

I’ve known in this industry,” he says, noting Sanchez’s resume includes designing for Easy Spirit, Nine West, Bass, White Mountain, Phoenix Footwear, and H.H. Brown, among others. “Every company needs a talented team to succeed, and with his design skills and my knowledge of launching brands, it’s a win-win.”

Sanchez and Adams broke away from Suecos in 2019 to focus on ensuring

a healthy birth for Hälsa, which translates to “health” in Swedish. The design centers on its Equilibrium+ technology, an ergonomically orthotic insole that helps prevent arch instability, knee pain, plantar fasciitis, and pronation while promoting proper alignment and maintaining stability with every step. Included in this construction are positively charged silver ion layers that help prevent bacteria, fungi, and odors from forming. “Silver ions are used by NASA and medical supply companies, as well as Egyptians 4,000 years ago, for their health benefits,” Adams explains. “It’s where the expression ‘being born with a silver spoon in your mouth’ stems from. If you could afford to feed your baby with a silver spoon, you could help protect against infection and illness. WWI doctors would also place a silver coin on a wound before bandaging.” Adams is fascinated by the numerous beneficial properties of silver. What’s more, he claims this is a shoe industry first.

Adams thought he had a great story in Hälsa, but he needed affirmation. Would retailers agree? “There’s that moment of silence just after finishing a presentation when you wait to see if they think your baby is ugly or cute,” he explains. “When they think it’s cute, there’s no better feeling.”

Hälsa passed the cute test. And looks aren’t the only thing the company has going for it. Adams has layered in an exclusive independent channel distribution strategy with no DTC sales. His market research showed that the No. 1 request, by far, was for Hälsa not to sell DTC. That was followed by requests for higher margins, sizes and widths, not selling to Amazon, and having an open stock program. “We listened and reacted,” Adams says. “We offer some of the highest margins in the industry, and our open stock program allows retailers to order one pair at a time, if they like.” Not selling DTC, though, really caught the attention of buyers. Adams believes retailers have had it with such competition. “Some brands are putting contest flyers inside their boxes offering a chance to win a free trip to those who sign up for their emails. They’re offering styles retailers can’t carry and they’re frequently undercutting on price. How can retailers compete?” As for brands that claim DTC is necessary and/or isn’t a primary focus? Adams is skeptical. “Once they taste the gravy on those margins, they want more. I don’t believe they’re cutting back.”

Adams thinks and acts like a retailer. That’s where he cut his teeth, starting at age 14 in his father’s store in Southern California. (See sidebar: p. 16.) He understands how hard it is just competing against fellow retailers. “I know what they go through on a daily basis,” he says. “I want to protect independents as much as I can, whereas I think a lot of brands have forgotten about them.” Adams

also believes the independent tier remains critical to the industry overall, starting with helping to introduce new brands. In addition, he says small businesses are vital to communities.

Adams has walked the walk in terms of supporting independent dealers since the day after Hälsa shipped its first collection. As (bad) timing would have it, that’s when stores closed nationwide due to the pandemic. Adams’ retailer instincts kicked in immediately. “I called every account and told them not to pay the invoice. We carried the paper until they were comfortable paying,” he says, noting that 90 percent of the approximately 90 retailers kept the inventory. “It might have been six or eight months, but everyone paid.” Adams adds, “We’re building Hälsa with independents who can trust that we’re partnering in their best interests. That’s how we want to stand out.”

It’s been relatively smooth sailing for Hälsa despite a pandemic, supply chain chaos, record

inflation, political unrest, wars, etc. Adams is confident that the course he and Sanchez have charted will be successful. They envision their nascent brand blossoming in the coming years. He forecasts continued double-digit growth as the brand enters adolescence. “Our retailers are no longer testing us; now they’re giving us more shelf space,” he says. “That’s what will drive our business over the next three to five years, and that offers plenty of growth potential.”

No DTC nor selling to majors. Why go where basically no brands are going?

Because our target customers’ No. 1 request was to not sell DTC. As for not selling to majors, we’re just not geared for spa reports, which are basically givebacks. We don’t want that liability. It’s too much hassle and you have to ask whether you’re really making money off of that partnership? We believe Hälsa is better off working with independents and,

OFF THE CUFF

What are you reading?

Greenlights. It’s a fascinating book by Matthew McConaughey. Life is like a tree with many branches, and you never know what branch you’ll follow that will shape your life.

What was the last movie you saw? Oppenheimer. The decisions he had to make to be the father of the Atomic Bomb… His responsibility during those times is unimaginable.

What might people be surprised to know about you? I’m an avid sailor who likes adventures. I always hope the wind is at my back and live life close to the edge so I can see over.

What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever received? My dad always said two minds are better than one. Listen to people, but in the end it’s your decision.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? My dad, if I could.

He always had such great wisdom, vision, and advice. He’d be proud to see how Hälsa is growing.

What is your least favorite phrase? It's not possible. Nothing is impossible if you put your mind to it.

What is inspiring you right now? My girlfriend, who has inspired me in so many ways. She’s the first one to really encourage me to chase my dreams and live life because we’re not here forever.

What did you want to be when you grew up? A forest ranger. I’ve always loved backpacking, camping, mountain climbing, etc. Becoming an Eagle Scout taught me a love of the outdoors.

Where is your moment of Zen? Sundays walking the beach with my wife in California. There’s something just so peaceful and restorative about walking in the sand and

listening to the waves.

What was your first-ever paying job? Working at my dad’s shoe store when I was 14. I started out sweeping the floors and then one day we were really busy and he needed help selling shoes. I was hooked!

What was your first concert and best concert? George Harrison’s 1974 “The Dark Horse” tour and Paul McCartney’s “Wings Over America” tour in 1975. Seeing Ringo and Paul play together was unbelievable.

Where is your moment of Zen?

Waking up at 4:30 a.m. to watch the sunrise on a new day and reminding myself this is the first day of the rest of my life. Use it or lose it.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in Buena Park, CA, and it’s of being a paperboy and being able to a ord a horse. Also, remembering the Helms Bakery man delivering milk to our front door.

What is your motto? If you’re not the lead dog, the view never changes.

if they have a problem, we can offset that with a markdown or something else, but not a giveback.

And the independent tier is enough of a market to grow meaningfully in the coming years?

Yes. Offhand, I’d say there are at least 700 good comfort specialty independents out there. Those doing 108 pair buys…Yes, I think we can grow very nicely over the coming years. That also makes Hälsa quite unique. Name three brands that are working with key comfort specialty independents and who aren’t selling Nordstrom as well. You can’t. But we don’t need to be in Nordstrom. Sometimes, you’re chasing a carrot and growing for the sake of growing, but profitability suffers while overhead costs increase. We don’t want that.

There’s also plenty of growth opportunity just from competitors’ mistakes, no?

Exactly. And being a small company, we can turn on a nickel. Take our debut fall/winter collection for this year. We don’t have to go all out with an extensive collection. We just need that “wow” factor, which we’re doing in a tight collection of transitional season styles. It’s all about shelf appeal in something that’s versatile and can be worn year-round. That’s less risk for retailers. We’re not making knee or thigh-high boots. We’re about great-looking, versatile comfort styles.

Might that include sneakers going forward?

We’re in the drawing stages and have some prototypes. I’m looking forward to how we’ll continue to evolve for Fall ’25. José has a talent for designing greatlooking shoes. So much so that our Equilibrium+ and silver ion technologies haven’t even been the lead pitch to sales. Retailers tell us they just need to put our shoes on the customers’ feet, and they walk out with a pair.

Looks first, and everything else after?

Looks start the conversation. I see it as a threesecond window where consumers make a decision to buy or not. In the first second, they spot a shoe and then in the next two seconds, they decide to pick it up or not. For example, our sandals, being the lightest in the industry, grab the consumers’ attention. If you get a customer hooked in those three seconds, they’ll likely want to try it on. That’s when it usually seals the deal for Hälsa, because our shoes are extremely comfortable.

What does your three-second rule say about the belief consumers largely shop based on brand? It tells me there’s so much opportunity out there—if you have the right product. It’s an ocean full of sharks, and as long as you use the right nets, you can catch them. That’s what we did with Sofft,

WOOF, WOOF!

From earning big spiffs to selling stripper shoes, Tony Adams looks back fondly on a shoe dog’s life.

Tony Adams caught the shoe bug at age 14. It happened the first time his father asked him to take a break from sweeping floors and pitch in on the salesfloor of his busy high-end fashion store catering to Hollywood’s A-list. Adams was instantly hooked. He fell in love with the product, the bustle, the thrill of the sale, commissions, and the interaction with customers.

“I learned from the best shoe dogs, many of whom grew up during the Depression. They were hungry and really knew how to sell shoes,” Adams says. “They taught me so much: how to greet, seat, and measure feet with a Ritz Stick and Brannock Device.” Adams adds, “We didn’t just sell shoes; we sold customers an experience. We’d bring out lots of styles, as well as matching handbags. It was so fun, and my 10 percent commission meant the more fun I had, the more money I made.”

Adams learned how to move fast and service a lot of customers, often simultaneously. One of his father’s traffic-generating hooks was sale events that offered the first 100 customers a free pair. “He could draw more than 1,000 customers over an eight-hour period,” Adams recalls. “He was an unbelievable promoter.”

After two years of working for his father, Adams moved on to a mall store as a stockboy. But that gig lasted just a few hours because a nearby Weatherby-Kayser location offered him a salesfloor position. Over the next three years, he rose to store manager and then, over the next several years, moved on to Florsheim, Thayer McNeil, May Company, Broadway, Butler Brothers, and C.H. Baker Shoes. At each stop, Adams “looked outside the box” to increase sales. One example: dying Candie’s nubuck slides in an array of colors with Meltonian shoe polish. It was a hit. Adams sold the shoe polish for $1 a can so customers could personalize their shoes. “That C.H. Baker store sold more Meltonian shoe polish than all their stores combined,” Adams says. “Plus, I got 50 cents back on every can I sold.”

In 1985, Adams rejoined his father’s business and, soon after, they began manufacturing shoes in California. They had been selling a style by L.A. Lady when a local manufacturer offered to make a similar shoe for them. The resulting shoes caught the attention of a rep who took a few samples on the road. Lo and behold, he booked about $700,000 in that first year. From there, they acquired the factory, named the parent company Cypress Footwear, and started making casual styles under the In Touch and Wood N You labels. “I’d drive the vegetable highway in inland California, where every small city had a local shoe store, and come back with orders for 3,000 pairs off just one trip,” Adams recalls, adding that annual sales peaked at nearly $4 million.

Unfortunately, by the time the ’90s came to a close, Asian imports were killing Cyprus Footwear. But not before one last desperate salvo. Adams converted one of its factories to make provocative footwear under the DeMars label. Think thigh-high boots, platforms, racy vinyls, and men’s (drag queen) sizes. Adams let his promotional freak flag fly. At one WSA Show, he installed 10-foot mannequins while The Doors’ “Build Me a Woman” played on a loop. At another show, he hired a model to walk the floor sporting a thigh-high style and a T-shirt with the slogan “Stop staring at my boots.” “It was like the Pied Piper leading buyers back to our booth. One customer bought 5,000 pairs on the spot,” Adams recalls. Despite his best efforts, the overseas competition ultimately forced Cyprus Footwear to close.

That brought Adams to H.H. Brown, where he spent 17 years and launched a series of successful brands before leaving to create his latest, Hälsa. He plans to see this one through to maturity. “I have an endless burning desire to sell shoes,” Adams says. “The thrill of knowing I have a cute baby after each presentation never gets old.” —G.D.

Bionica, and Isola. And my father and I did it with our In Touch, Wood N You, and DeMars brands. Having the right product is what it’s all about. Fortunately, José is great at designing, and I’m in the field always looking. If I see any void in the market, we’re on it right away. I give ideas that José interprets in a fresh and distinct Hälsa way.

Taking into account your extensive experience launching brands, what might have you learned to avoid?

Don’t be everything to everybody. That never ends well. Stay focused. The comfort market is full of brands saying they are one thing, but if you peel away the layers, you discover that’s not always true. If you’re known for a certain entity but are making styles outside of that realm, you’ll lose direction. Always listen to what your customers tell you. Because when you stop listening, you stop growing.

Like, for example, don’t sell DTC?

Lastly, we feature unique leathers in on-trend colors and the latest details.

Who is the Hälsa customer?

That’s what retailers have asked of us. I’ve subscribed to a few brands and I’m bombarded daily with sale offers as much as 50 percent off. When I Google a store that carries the same brand/style and see it listed at a higher price, how can that retailer compete? I’ve been in their shoes, and I really hate seeing this type of selling. And more brands are doing it. Even if some claim it’s not their main focus, they’re not giving it up entirely. We like the way we’re going about it.

I’m guessing the Dear John letters some independents have been receiving of late is something you don’t approve of either?

That’s truly shameful. You need to take home the person you brought to the dance. There will be no Dear John letters from Hälsa. Above all, I always tell independents to challenge their brands. Hälsa, for example, has a very clean distribution. We also constantly monitor and enforce our MAP policy. We’ve based our growth on supporting our independent dealers. We should be held accountable to those claims. I think it helps, personally, that I spent years working in retail. A lot of brand execs never worked on that side. What also separates Hälsa from other Euro comfort brands is our American sizes and widths. That includes using combination lasts, full and half sizes, and extending our unit bottoms to accommodate wide widths. Most of our accounts are “greet, seat, and measure feet” businesses, and sometimes that customer needs that half size to fit correctly. Then there’s our Equilibrium+ and silver ions stories, and consumers love a good story.

She’s looking for fashionable, comfortable styles. She’s looking to replace her old comfort shoes with something new, fresh, different, and exciting. It’s true the new 70 is 50, as is the new 50 is 30. Once these women discover Hälsa, they’re buying multiple styles or multiple colors of the same style.

How was business this past year?

We experienced the best year to date with our spring collections, and that’s despite California, our biggest market, having had a very mild summer and sales not really starting until late June. We are expecting to do better this year, especially with the introduction of our first collection of fall transitional styles.

Lots of execs have cited inflation, political divide, Ukraine and Israeli wars, among other problems, as making business quite challenging. Would you agree?

Every year there are problems—elections, interest rates, home prices, inflation…the lists goes on and on. Fully controlling our own supply chain along with people you trust to make the right decisions helps. And since we’re based in the U.S., we haven’t been impacted by a lot of the problems occurring in Europe and the Middle East. And any problems with supply chain that happened during Covid are no longer affecting us.

Despite world turmoil, the U.S. economy seems to be doing relatively ok. Is that translating to Hälsa’s sales?

As a new player, we’re experiencing double-digit, year-over-year growth. It’s great for America to be so resilient with unemployment at 3.7 percent. The

cost-of-living crisis has also made consumers analyze their spending habits; they’re looking to buy less but at higher quality. That works well for Hälsa.

What is your general assessment of the retail landscape right now?

Only the strong survive, and this is so true of today’s independents. Heightened demand for physical locations among consumers experiencing ecommerce fatigue is helping brick-and-mortar retailers. I see more consumers looking forward to shopping in a store environment, rather than sitting at a computer screen or shopping on a phone. They’re looking to get out of the house and explore. It’s up to retailers to offer that experience. They need to constantly innovate on the in-store shopping experience, as well online.

What are your primary goals for 2024?

Continuing to find those nuggets out there. There are so many great stores that have not discovered Hälsa yet. We’re also on the hunt for a new VP/ sales manager. We’re growing. We now have 22 employees in our main office, along with seven reps in the field. We outgrew our offices and warehouses within the first year. Fortunately, we were able to take over the three buildings next to us in San Marcos, CA.

You’ve been around this block plenty. What keeps you in the game?

The fun and excitement in growing a brand, as well as helping independents grow their businesses. The relationships I’ve made over the years mean everything to me. Once you become a shoe dog, it’s in your DNA. You never quit. I still have that passion. I don’t ever envision sitting on a beach and watching the tide come in. When you don’t have a passion for something, your mind wanders away. Living outside the box keeps my mind young.

What do you love most about your job?

That it isn’t a “job.” It’s a fun adventure, and who doesn’t love that? I love the excitement, risks, and rewards. It’s like when I’m sailing, every once in a while I need that pucker factor, like when I’m facing 70 knot winds and my boat might capsize. If I don’t have those peaks and valleys, how am I going to really enjoy life? I don’t want my whole life to run on an even keel. There’s no adventure in that. So I’ll never forget the time I was rescued by the Coast Guard, or when I fell 30 feet while climbing a mountain. And I’ll never forget launching Hälsa. •

Hälsa’s first boots collection, for Fall ’24, is all about year-round style versatility.

GAMES

Combat boots head to the

Chinese Laundry

Taos

SEE YOU IN COURT

Subtle spins on the classic silhouette keep it fresh.

Gola

Samuel Hubbard

COWBOY COLORS

Versatile warm earth tones for on the ranch and on the town.

Georgia Boot Twisted X

Irish Setter

POWDER PUFFS

Quilted uppers keep tootsies toasty.

Cougar

Lâmo

Merrell

Xero

Teva

BMOVING SWIFTLY

By Greg Dutter

ACK IN 2019, Ron Owens was lured out of retirement to take the reins of Dingo, a division of Dan Post Boot Company, in part because there were only so many rounds of golf he could play. But there was a much bigger reason to return: opportunity. The one-time Wall Street trader, having looked deep into his personal crystal ball, sensed something really big was afoot. Specifically, trends were snowballing, the likes of which he’d never seen in nearly 50 years of working in the fashion footwear industry. A mélange of Western, boho, denim, and casualization was emerging in step with a mass migration to states where those aesthetics are everyday lifestyle choices. What’s more, these trends were—and are—being embraced by all ages, ethnicities, and demographics. If you require a North Star, think about the mass appeal of Taylor Swift. Owens found himself champing at the bit to return, and his instincts were right: Dingo sales have doubled annually since 2019, galloping right through the pandemic when many brands pulled up lame.

Fast forward to this year, and Owens will tell you he miscalculated. The macro-Americana lifestyle shift he envisioned is actually much bigger than he predicted, and it looks to grow even more in the years ahead.

“Taylor and Beyoncé alone, the two largest stars on the planet…it’s phenomenal what’s happening within this whole lifestyle movement,” Owens says, noting that country music recently had the top three songs on Billboard’s

pop charts and Tracy Chapman is the first Black woman ever to have a number one hit on the country charts. “It went from being a strictly redneck venue to the most inclusive of all music genres.” Owens believes country music’s universal appeal reflects the macroAmericana lifestyle movement, which, he says, is no passing fad. “Not only have those factors gotten stronger, Western fashion has become more mainstream and inclusive,” he says. “Hollywood, the music industry, and leading designers are all embracing this lifestyle even more.” Further proof of the aesthetic’s universal appeal: Owens reports that for the first time in Dingo’s history, one of its styles recently ranked No. 1 across its boutique, western, and farm accounts at the same time. “I’ve never seen the inclusivity that we’re witnessing today,” he says.

The way Owens sees it, Dingo has mass appeal potential. Its brand DNA aligns perfectly with the lifestyle shift underway in America. Thus, his top priority now is repositioning Dingo to meet rapidly growing demand. That effort includes marketing, sourcing, and products, which will soon be head to toe. The overriding goal is to position Dingo as a lifestyle fashion brand with a hint of Western. “Our plan is to continue to be at the front of the fashion window, or at least a close second,” Owens says. “Dingo is quickly becoming a marketing company that just happens to make fashion products.”

Take this fall’s debut of Dingo’s upscale Royale collection, for example. Designed for women who want an authentic welted Western boot construction, the upscale collection (SRP: $220 to $250) features extravagant detailing

Ron Owens, vice president and brand manager of Dingo, is repositioning the brand to ride a massive Americana lifestyle wave.

In his element: Ron Owens surrounded by Dingo’s growing collection.

and exotic prints available in multiple colorways. Such looks have been trending strongly in the accessories market of late, particularly among younger consumers. It’s further evidence of Western’s crossover fashion appeal. “It’s amazed me how well the collection has been received across the board,” Owens reports. “Almost everybody has added an element of Royale to their regular buys.”

DINGO DNA

None of this growth potential would be possible without Dingo’s unique DNA, which blends traits of Western, biker, and fashion. Those roots go back 50-plus years. In the ’70s and ’80s, Dingo made a name for itself as one of the first lifestyle boot brands, particularly in men’s with the likes of Joe Namath and Joe Montana as endorsers. The brand rose to such heights that it became a boot eponym, especially for harness styles, as Kleenex is for tissues.

This rich history, Owens believes, is key to Dingo’s recent success and bodes well for future growth. “Heritage brands, in general, grow at a much faster rate than newer ones,” he says, noting that the vintage category currently represents some of the fastest-growing brands in-store and online. “Consumers just naturally trust legacy brands. They find them stronger and more credible, reliable, and stable.” Owens adds, “We connect on a much deeper level; thus heritage brands hold more value than being just product.”

Another brand trait contributing to Dingo’s broader appeal: It’s not strictly a “cowboy” brand. It isn’t pigeonholed. “We see ourselves as a fashion brand with a Western hint, but with a much larger degree of authenticity than other fashion companies are capable of understanding,” Owens explains. That fashion credibility gives Dingo the elasticity to expand beyond Western, which already includes wood bottom clogs, sandals, sneakers, and, this fall, rain boots. Soon, it will also include license deals for hats, belts, handbags, denim, and select ready-to-wear items. “We’ll complete their wardrobes, as we envision Dingo as a true lifestyle brand,” he says.

Envisioning brand extensions is entirely different from actually creating them, of course. But this isn’t Owens’ first lifestyle brand rodeo. He was along for the explosive runs of Candie’s and Sam & Libby. He knows how to build a brand, and he knows the pitfalls to avoid. It starts with choosing the right partners—ones with similar retail distribution and that align in terms of quality. “You need to choose partners who already understand your consumer,” Owens says. “You also don’t want to get too spread out.” Accessories are a relatively easy hop, whereas having continuity and synergy with a clothing brand requires more of a jump. Whatever you do, he advises, don’t get greedy. “Grabbing money from wherever is a mistake; it waters the brand down and confuses your consumer,” he says. “Licensing done correctly can extend your brand. It’s pure bottom-line profits that really add up.”

Dingo’s brand extensions are currently in the conversation phase. Within the next six months to a year, Owens expects to roll out a few categories, beginning with hats, which are trending strongly, thanks in part to Beyoncé’s Grammy Awards fashion statement. “We haven’t been in a rush. We’re in the process of completing a state-of-the-art website and have just hired a couple of people for our marketing department who have extensive backgrounds in country music and have worked with a lot of celebrities,” he says. “We want to get that all solidified before we start moving into licensing.”

SWIFTIES AND BEYOND

Dingo is targeting primarily Gen Z and young Millennials, who now make up 40 percent of global consumers. But the brand’s customer base is diverse. There’s the Taylor Swift fan base, which spans all ages and is massively influential. (The total economic impact of Swift’s Eras tour in the U.S. could exceed $10 billion, according to the U.S. Travel Association.) Customers also include “Coastal Cowgirls,” which leans more sophisticated; the sorority/game day crowd seeking styles in school colors; bridal and bachelorette parties; music festival fans; vacationers making pilgrimages to Nashville, a.k.a. Dingo’s home base, the capital of country music, and one of the country’s hottest destinations; and a rapidly growing Latino population nationwide. It’s a massive base with tons of sales potential.

Take the game day crowd, for example. Owens first pooh-poohed the potential until the sales kept pouring in. Green boots around Baylor University, red for Oklahoma University, burgundy for Texas A&M, orange for the University of Tennessee…the list of school colors keeps growing, as do Dingo’s sales. “It’s huge,” he reports, noting one boutique did a TikTok video promoting a color and sold 600 pairs in three days. “It also spans about five styles. It’s incredible the amount of pairs this is generating.”

The bridal party trend is equally impressive. Again, Owens didn’t see that one coming, but Dingo will soon feature a separate Bridal section on its new website. “I snickered at first, thinking people don’t buy boots just for weddings, but it’s a real trend,” he says. “White is the primary color, but they buy across the board on styles that often feature hand-tooled work and lots of ornamentation.” Owens cites Anthropologie’s wedding division, in particular, for driving sales. “Being in Nashville you can see how big this wedding business is. Most of the many bachelorette parties are all wearing boots.”

The Latino sales potential is game day and bridal party trends to the nth degree. It’s the trend Owens expects to impact Dingo’s business more than any other over the next couple of seasons, given that Hispanic consumers’ annual U.S. spending prowess is in the billions and Latin culture spans approximately 20 countries. The trend is currently led by Mexican culture–focused pieces, such as flowy dresses and skirts featuring leather juxtaposed with chiffons, linens, and similar light fabrics, and accented with a chunky silver belt and jewelry—all paired with cowboy boots, Owens reports. Dior’s latest collection, inspired by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, is an example. Black and red are key colors; Owens says TikTok reported an increase of 108 percent over the past year in searches for “red cowboy boots.”

These trends plus others (see sidebar: p. 24.) have Owens wide-eyed about Dingo’s prospects. “I continue to be amazed every day by our growth potential,” he says. “We’ve only just begun to grow our business. It’s easy to envision Western boots becoming like sneakers in that no closet will ever be without a pair, especially now that consumers realize sneakers and boots are interchangeable for many occasions.” In fact, he believes Western boots have an advantage over sneakers because they’re more acceptable for certain occasions and, unlike dress shoes, they’re comfortable. “People aren’t going to wear dress shoes to the degree they once did,” he offers. “It goes back to the comfort aspects and the overall casual fashion shift. It’s just not part of our lifestyle. Like in Europe, we don’t have as much seasonality in what we

From game day colors to biker classics to fashion Western, Dingo is firing on all cylinders.

Looky Here

Ron Owens sounds off on key fashion and consumer trends on Dingo’s radar.

Festival Fashion: The growing popularity of music festivals worldwide—like Stagecoach and Coachella in the U.S., Glastonbury in the U.K., and Rock in Rio in Brazil—is fueling a resurgence of the cowboy look, particularly among younger audiences. The look blends traditional elements with contemporary touches, creating a nostalgic and fresh style.

Jeans Therapy: There are rules governing the wearing of denim, such as matching denim on denim (a.k.a. double denim) or contrasting completely. Double denim is all about the silhouette: workwear-styled outlines, neat midi skirts, or cropped jackets with baggy jeans. If it’s denim shorts, pair it with distressed with cowboy boots. The hit series Daisy Jones & the Six featured a retro/boho style of flared denim trousers. Nothing accentuates the cowboy look better than denim. It’s rugged, a bit dangerous, and yet comfortable. Denim is also a staple in mainstream urban fashion, so it’s country and city at the same time.

Coastal Cowgirls: The look blends a TikTok aesthetic with cowgirl energy. It’s all about combining different textures and styles—wearing denim with leather, topped with a crocheted dress, and suede cowboy boots, for example. The only rule here is there are no rules. It’s cowgirl boots paired with as many outfits as possible. The aesthetic lives for boots, neutrals, and lightweight fabrics to achieve a breezy, easy Western feel.

Let it Rain: Western boots are functional and versatile by design, like rain boots. Chanel, Dior, Prada, and Burberry, to name just a few, now offer rain boots. Western rain boots are a growing trend. Women are pairing them with trench coats, miniskirts, cargo pants, and even tailored pantsuits.

Motorcycle Diaries: Fall ’24 fashion is embracing all things motorcycle,

like leather jackets, edgy leather pants, and harness boots. The latter is right in Dingo’s wheelhouse. The style is also in line with grunge trends that began with platforms. There’s something eternal about moto boots with their classic toe, wide shaft, and buckle detail. The style is strong and bold. It says you’re not here to mess around, nor shall anyone mess with you. Yet the style works well with delicate, Coastal Cowgirl looks, giving the boot even more versatility.

Green Scene: Sustainability is a significant trend that may shape the future of cowboy attire, emphasizing eco-friendly materials and production methods. Technological advancements could lead to new materials and designs, adding further versatility and comfort.

West Desperado, an Instagram fashion influencer, believes Western fashion will see a focus on sustainability and ethical fashion. She predicts more designers will use eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled denim to create one-of-a-kind pieces that are both stylish and sustainable.

Gen Z Traits: For starters, they’re just as apt to shop in a Tractor Supply as a Boot Barn, Altar’d State, or Buckle. Many are located in strip centers or are freestanding, as those stores became easier to shop during the pandemic. Gone also are the days of running ads in fashion magazines and hoping somebody might see them. It’s all about curated marketing across a range of venues and outlets, including music festivals, influencers, and social media platforms, especially TikTok. What you say requires tact.

You want to be as apolitical as you can and make sure your statements align with their values. Top concerns include climate change, racism, gun violence, and police brutality. Not exactly old-school Western values, but that reflects the greater inclusivity of this generation.

wear. This all represents a shift in lifestyle; it’s not a fashion trend.”

Comfort is key, especially with younger generations who grew up wearing sneakers, flip-flops, and Crocs. “If they aren’t comfortable, the consumer won’t wear them,” Owens says. “We’ve invested heavily in incorporating comfort aspects that put our shoes on a par with sneakers.”

MEXICAN CONNECTION

Dingo currently makes its shoes in Mexico, and Owens doesn’t foresee any reason to look elsewhere. For starters, Mexico’s turnaround times can’t be beat. “We’ve decreased what was traditionally a 90-day window to anywhere from a worst-case scenario of 45 to 60 days to 20 to 30 days on items that we need quickly,” he reports. “China, Vietnam, Cambodia, India…that’s a six-month lead time usually, and the fashion world just can’t work that way.”

As usual, Owens has done the research to know why Mexico is the way to go, especially with seasonality being superseded by speed to market. For example, if Owens’ team believes it has a potential hit, manufacturing in Mexico enables them to run a test on its website, as well as a few strategic partner sites. If it verifies, Dingo can reorder quickly, rather than be out of stock for 45 days. That isn’t possible with sourcing in most countries. Plus, Mexico’s smaller minimums help in the speed-to-market strategy. “When you have 60 percent of your business based off ecommerce, it’s critical to order smaller quantities on select styles as opposed to sourcing out of another country where you’d never buy those large quantities,” Owens explains. “It also enables you to be more flexible. We’re pre-buying a lot more materials, so we’re able to get back much faster into styles that are selling well.”

influence in Western style

Another big advantage of sourcing in Mexico is more bang for the buck. Owens says about half of the Asian sourcing costs involve duty, tariffs, freight, etc. Those costs are all lower or non-existent in Mexico, which enables the savings to be invested in the product. “We put so much more into the product instead of into freight, tariff, and duties,” he says. “The quality difference is amazing.”

Now it’s about making sure Dingo’s Mexican factory partners can keep pace with growing demand. To that end, parent company Dan Post Boot Company is adding new factories and has increased its position in existing ones. It helps to be a partner in good standing. “Dan Post has such a great reputation in terms of how we work with people, payments, etc., which is why we’re working with all the better factories, and they’ve made investments in more equipment to give us much more production,” Owens says.

GREENER PASTURES

Owens has no regrets about putting his retirement on hold. Golf can wait. He’s having too much fun managing a high-flying fashion brand. “Working with talented young people on building a great brand…that’s what’s important to me now. We’re all having a great time. Dingo is becoming a big business.”

What does Owens’ crystal ball predict for Dingo three years down the road?

“We’ll probably double in size, or slightly higher, but we don’t want to blow up so much that it can’t be sustained,” he says. “We want solid, steady growth.” He adds, “Our ultimate goal is to be one of the most-recognized brands in the fashion industry.”

Owens is grateful for the team helping Dingo work toward those ambitious goals. Their dedication and hard work are paying dividends. What’s more, they’re growing and learning, and their fulfilling dreams. At this stage of Owens’ career, that’s as rewarding as sales growth. Dingo is indeed a dream job in Owens’ golden years. “This is not only my last ride, it’s my best ride,” he says. •

A NOTE TO MY YOUNGER SELF

GONE FISHIN’

Gary Weiner, former owner of Saxon Shoes, looks with 360-degree clarity upon a well-earned retirement.

DEAR GARY…What an interesting idea: What would I tell my younger self, and which era would I choose? Elementary school, high school, college, work, parenthood…hmmm.

The more I think about it, the more I realize that writing a note to my younger self, at any stage, isn’t something I’d do. Why give a heads-up on the incredible journey that awaits me? Why ruin the surprises, good fortune, challenges, and triumphs that I’ll experience in every stage of my life? Maybe the mistakes and pitfalls that I’ve lived through were meant to be overcome so I could learn from them and improve as a person. Scar tissue is like body armor. It toughens you up for the rough and unpredictable road of life.

So how about a little spin on this worthy exercise? I’ll write A Note to My Current Self because I’ve loved every stage of my life, and that includes every mistake I’ve made along the way. For the record, there has been no shortage of self-inflicted wounds. Take the time I got a speeding ticket driving to Fort Lauderdale in 1977. Why did I laugh when the policeman suggested he’d take me to jail at 3 a.m.? Why? Or how about the time in 2012 when I took it upon myself to run in pumps as part of the first-ever Saxon Shoes High Heel Dash. The 50-yard race was held to raise funds for a great cause—the Susan G. Komen Foundation—but hindsight would have told me it wasn’t the smartest idea for my ankles, knees, back, etc. Still, the local NBC affiliate was on hand and hundreds of people came out to cheer on the many other brave/crazy souls. Sometimes you have to suffer for your business—and to help those in need.

kept my family business alive, along with an incredible staff of loyal employees—thousands of them over my 40-plus-year career. Saxon Shoes would’ve been nothing without them.

I’m proud to say our business survived the Great Recession, the Retail Apocalypse, and the pandemic, among countless other challenges. Covid dealt us a near-knockout blow; we were forced to file for bankruptcy protection in August of 2020. Immediately following the filing, we focused on our top priority: keeping everyone employed. In true Weiner family spirit, we emerged from bankruptcy about a year later fully staffed. We got our legs back underneath us. I’m forever grateful to the many vendors who worked with us and the customers who stood by us during this difficult period.

Every day in retail is about overcoming challenges. Of course, some hurdles are bigger and longer lasting than others. Case in point: In 2001 our beloved location, in the Ridge Shopping Center, burned to the ground! We were closed for nine months. But in true Weiner family spirit, we rebuilt. Then, in 2005, we moved to a 26,000-foot-space in the Short Pump Town Mall, becoming one of the biggest independently owned shoe stores in the country. It was a huge leap, but our team rose to the occasion. We became a destination store, drawing customers from hours away to shop our extensive selection of shoes and accessories, as well as our renowned children’s department.

I’ve never been one to think or act small, so I definitely took risks. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? I loved my foray into online retailing, creating Shoedini.com in 1999 at our kitchen table. (Shoedini is now called 6pm.com.) Like any retailer worth his or her salt, I never stood still. I’ve been in an endless foot race, just not generally while wearing high heels. Willingness to try this and test that

I was approached a few times about selling the business, but the time never felt right—until it did! After a lengthy courtship, Garrett Breton of Comfort One Shoes made an offer in late 2023 that I couldn’t refuse. I know our business is in great hands; it’s Saxon Shoes on steroids. And my daughter, Amanda, is now the Director of Saxon Shoes. Our great retailing family marches on. I couldn’t be prouder.

Looking back on a career well-lived, I realize no one ever needed to tell me, at any age, to be respectful or compassionate, to work hard, to never give up, or to try and do the right thing. My parents instilled those values in me. They’re bookmarked in my brain. And no matter what anyone might think, I was always listening.

If I could, I’d write to my parents. Instead, I have conversations with them in my head, and quite often. For the sake of this exercise, I’d remind myself at any earlier age of how grateful and lucky I’ll be the next day, month, year, etc. because every day is a blessing. My wife and kids are incredible. Bonus: My grandkids are all nearby! I also have many great friends, and I’d remind myself to check on their well-being. Spend time together. Don’t worry about telling the same stories for the 47th time. Family and friends mean the world to me.

Though older, I’m not “old.” I’m embracing retirement with the same gusto I did running a shoe store. There are countless experiences— like learning to play harmonica, pickleball, and perhaps juggling—to add to my full life. There are so many incredible places to see and amazing people to meet, albeit at a more leisurely pace. I’ve learned to take my foot off the gas and enjoy the ride more often. That’s good advice for any age.

Finally, I’d tell my younger self at every stage to exercise, eat healthy, and not to lose a fish because I didn’t tie a good knot. On that note, I’d sure like to know where the fish are biting! I’d definitely give my younger self a heads-up on that!

Reel life moments: Gary Weiner soaking up his post-retailer days.

Fluchos leather boots; Paisley & Gray coat; Lucky Brand shirt; Mango sweater; Zara pants; The Tie Bar socks.

Lug sole Chelsea boot by Rieker; Mango coat; sweater by Gloverall; Lucky Brand pants; Uniqlo socks. Opposite page: Florsheim suede wingtips; sweater and socks by The Tie Bar; Taylor Stitch shirt; Mango pants.

Chukka boots by Propét; Paisley & Gray suit; J. Crew shirt; tie, pocket square, and socks by The Tie Bar.

Opposite page: Ambitious leather jogger; jacket by Hawke & Co.; J. Crew pants; Lucky Brand shirt; Zara hat; The Tie Bar socks.

Leather chukka boots by Ecco; Alex Mill jacket; pants by Zara; Brooks Brothers shirt; The Tie Bar socks and tie; vintage scarf.

Opposite page: Diba polished penny loafer; jacket by Paisley & Gray, Uniqlo shirt; Drake‘s tie; pocket square by The Tie Bar.

From top: Fly London leather Wallabee boot with cork footbed; mixed materials work boot by Dingo; moc toe work shoes by Red Wing; shirt jacket by Hawke & Co.; Paisley & Gray turtleneck; vintage snowpants; Zara gloves; Domestic Domestic hat. Opposite page: Lâmo moc toe canvas hikers; Paisley & Gray jacket and turtle neck; Robert Talbott pants; Chamula hat; The Tie Bar socks.

Naot suede/leather sneakers; Hawke & Co. snorkel coat; T-shirt by Hanro; Marine Supply pants; The Tie Bar socks. Opposite page: Minnetonka rubber soled moccasins; Lucky Brand vest; vintage thermal; pants by Taylor Stitch, The Tie Bar socks; Pendleton blanket.

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Michael Macko; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Joaquin Ibarra/Next Management; groomer: Scott McMahan/Honey Artists; stylist assistant: Daniel Johnson; photo assistant: Raymond Collette; production assistant: Eileen Viglietta.

Natural Instincts

Woodson Powell, CEO/founder of Charleston Shoe Company, serves up the lifestyle brand’s enticing ‘cobblestones to cocktails’ aesthetic.

By Greg Dutter

SOME PEOPLE JUST have a natural entrepreneurial instinct. Neely Woodson Powell is one of them. As Charleston Shoe Company (CSC) lore goes: 28 years ago, Woodson Powell was traveling in central Mexico and came across a cobbler who made stylish yet comfortable shoes. Rather than become a customer, she thought big and entered into an agreement to sell the shoes wholesale. Flash forward to today, and CSC is a retail/wholesale casual lifestyle brand offering an extensive array of shoes, apparel, and accessories sold in 25 flagships and more than 200 wholesale accounts nationwide. Along the way, Woodson Powell added footwear design skills by attending Savannah College of Art & Design. She is a rare triple threat: retailer, wholesaler, and designer.

Perhaps it wasn’t such a leap, considering the entrepreneurial pedigree of Woodson Powell’s parents. Her father developed the Little Palm Island resort in the Florida Keys and her mother founded the furniture company, Worlds Away. In fact, Woodson Powell began selling wholesale by piggybacking in her mother’s booths at furniture trade shows. She also made the rounds early on, à la Nike and Dansko, by selling shoes out of the trunk of her car. It’s that can-do spirit that Woodson Powell says lies at the center of CSC.

“My incredible family drive my entrepreneurial spirit, along with my team and their ideas,” Woodson Powell says, noting that trait has been a key asset in working with retailers. “I can relate to their entrepreneurial spirit and what it takes to open that first store! The first 12 years of my business, I only did wholesale. I love being a part of their story, and hopefully our shoes bring a fun, unique element to their stores.”

CSC’s catchy “cobblestones to cocktails” tag line captures its breezy aesthetic. It’s the type of versatile casual shoes women wear on vacation, even if they are not strolling the streets of some cute beachside resort Feeling and looking like you are works just the same. “Our shoes are timeless, ageless, and versatile,” Woodson Powell offers. “Day to night, you can throw them on with a pair of jeans, walk miles on your vacations, and wear them straight into dinner and dancing.”

One of CSC’s signature design aspects is natural materials, like jute and cork, but are made of more durable rubber. In addition, the uppers are often elastic, allowing almost all styles to be machine washable. “Our shoes are also bunion-friendly, as the elastic will snug right around any problem areas,” Woodson Powell says, adding, “We make shoes that combine function and fashion for all-day wear for all ages.”

For Fall/Winter ’24, CSC is introducing new textures, cozy looks, warm neutrals, and a new signature stripe. That comes on the heels of this spring’s vintage-themed collection that spans the ’70s, florals, bright colors, Slim Aarons photography, and old Hollywood. “It’s easy comfort and timeless with a hint of whimsical glamour,” Woodson Powell says, noting the collections are made by approximately 80 cobblers in Mexico. In particular, she cites the Porter and Thea slides as receiving a strong reaction from retailers. And CSC’s new Berries color, a mix of lilac and indigo, is a hit. As for her personal favorite, it’s the return of the Cannon multi-stripe sandal. “We’ve brought it back from over 12 years ago,” she says. “It’s a stripe design made up of primary colors that embodies the South of France in a shoe. This shoe makes me happy!”

The overall vibe of CSC is indeed one of happiness. From the founder on down, there is a joyous nature surrounding the shoes, stores, wholesale partnerships, and relationships with customers. It’s like on big happy family, which is a point of pride for Woodson Powell. “I’m proud of our team and the careers we’ve built,” she says. “Seeing our corporate employees and store managers come together to laugh, learn, and love at our company retreat is truly inspiring. In addition, giving shoes to people in need…All of this brings us great ‘Shoe Joy,’ which is a phrase we’ve coined for our philanthropic division.”

It’s onward and upward for CSC, according to Woodson Powell. “There are a lot of untapped markets where I believe we could have great success,” she says. “The opportunity is endless for comfortable, stylish shoes.”

CSC operates as a “lean entrepreneurial, founder-driven team.” Why stick with that ethos nearly 30 years later? Having a small team also allows us to have insight into what every department is doing. Collaboration is incredibly important. Our jobs are typically a blend of a little bit of everything. We all have days where we work in the warehouse, we model on photo shoots, we drive our vans, and we work in stores. No job is too big or too small! Our “Shoe Family” feel is what sets us apart from other footwear brands.

What sort of advantages might being a womanled company provide? When I first started in this business, there were all these male shoe dogs, which I found interesting in that very few women were designing shoes for women. I believe you need that connection and to truly be your own customer. I wear

Neely

Beach ready: Most Charleston Shoe Company shoes are machine washable.

our shoes every day, all day, and I’m always listening to my female employees and customers. We all have a keen understanding of what women need.

Who is the CSC woman? She is the boss woman. Podiatrists, teachers, hairdressers, and hundreds of other professionals are some of our biggest fans. She’s the mom on the go, running a million errands. She’s everything in between. She’s multi-generational. As such, we continue to evolve our line, specifically of late by adding closed-toe options to cater to any and all of our customers’ needs. Above all, our customers are looking for comfort and stability that is adorable and fun!

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? Our classic Monterey sandal, the original Cobblestones to Cocktails shoe that has stood the test of time for over 25 years. Its lug sole gets you from running errands to dancing into the night!

What is your current wholesale distribution strategy? We’ve started to target select areas of the country where we’ve seen a lot of success historically and concentrations of where our loyal customers live. We want to bring shoes to these women. In our stores, we often meet customers who are on vacation, and they recommend stores in their area that leads to new accounts. We also ask our customers where they would want to see our shoes.

As an wholesaler, a retailer, and a designer, do you lean on one skillset most in managing CSC? I lean on hard work, hustle, and creativity. I also lean on feedback from my employees, reps, retailers, and customers.

What’s the best business advice you’ve ever received? Make sure you have a great CFO, and an even better lawyer.

Any designers you admire in particular? Christian Louboutin. The only time I sacrifice comfort is for his classic pump. I love the red sole for its originality, and his smart, timeless style.

What is your first shoe-related memory? I was around six, shopping with my grandmother at a Stride Rite store, for my first red shoes. I begged to wear them out of the store! I was so proud and ecstatic!

What do you love most about designing? Watching my customers try them on for the first time! It never gets old hearing them say, “Wow, they’re insanely comfortable.” In some cases, it’s a realization that they can wear cute shoes again. I also love working with colors! When I can replace a black shoe with a colorful alternative, it makes me so excited.

What do you love most about this industry? I love the relationships I’ve built over the years with my many loyal customers and wholesale accounts. Our friendships are long and memorable. I also love the frenzy of trunk shows—busy days in stores with shoes flying all around! Nothing beats the chaos of selling shoes.

Stretchy uppers and lightweight constructions are design traits.

War and Peace

Traditionally a military hue, olive is also associated with harmony and compassion for humanity—and the world could use a lot more of that now.

Ambitious

Fly London

Rieker

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