Footwear Plus | December 2013 by Wainscot Media

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The New

Grunge Anti-Fashion Grows Up

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EXPERIENCE THE BØRN FALL 2014 COLLECTION AT FFANY | NEW YORK SHOWROOM 1441 BROADWAY | 15TH FLOOR | NEW YORK, NY

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THE TRUE NORTH STRONG AND PLAID. Fashion meets function in the Canadian-designed Royale Red Tartan rain boot. A stylish addition to the Cougar 2014 collection. Visit us at FFANY, December 4-6, booth #310. Call 1-888-COUGAR-1 or visit cougarboots.com

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Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Brittany Leitner Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

12 Have it Your Way From the athletic to dress markets: Why customized footwear is gaining popularity. By Lyndsay McGregor

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

14 Rising ’Stocks David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA, on how the legendary brand is on the fast track to fulfilling its enormous potential. By Greg Dutter

Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Joel Shupp Circulation Manager

21 Style Hall of Fame

Mike Hoff Digital Director

Our 2013 inductees, Minnetonka’s Thunderbird moccasin and the ProWalker by Rockport, symbolize classic American style. By Angela Velasquez and Lyndsay McGregor

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

30 Rebel Rebel An excess of amped up elements revolutionize grunge style. By Angela Velasquez

42 Summer Lovin’ Stretch summer sales with these hot beach-bound accessories. By Angela Velasquez

PA G E

30 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 26 What’s Selling 40 Shoe Salon 44 Comfort 48 Last Word

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

On the cover: Cristófoli gladiator sandal, Topshop tank and pants, Rag & Bone hat. Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Stylist: Kim Johnson; hair: Seiji, The Wall Group; makeup: Wendy Karcher; model: Taylor, Major Model Management. This page, from top: Dirty Laundry fisherman sandal, short boot by Jeffrey Campbell.

Debbie Grim Controller

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2013 PLUS AWARDS EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL

Vote Online Now FOOTWEARPLUSMAGAZINE.COM LITTLE BLACK DRESS Michael by Michael Kors Vince Camuto Sam Edelman Boutique 9

WOMEN’S COMFORT Naot Earthies Cobb Hill Dansko

OUTDOOR Merrell Rocky S2V Lowa Oboz

BOUTIQUE Shoe Market Bus Stop Leffot (Write-in)

SUIT & TIE Ted Baker Cole Haan Allen Edmonds Johnston & Murphy

CHILDREN’S Toms Primigi Skechers Ralph Lauren

MADE IN AMERICA Vintage Shoe Company Sbicca New Balance Munro

MEN’S COLLECTION Wolverine 1000 Mile Sperry Top-Sider Clarks Ugg Australia

RUNNING Brooks Skechers GoRun Mizuno Hoka One One

SLIPPERS Ugg Australia Acorn Dearfoams Haflinger

BEST COLLAB Keds x Kate Spade Dr. Martens x Agyness Deyn Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld Wolverine 1000 Mile by Samantha Pleet Bass Loves Rachel Antonoff

WOMEN’S COLLECTION Modern Vice Elizabeth & James Steve Madden Rebecca Minkoff

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE Keds Adidas Converse Vans

COWBOY BOOTS Durango Old Gringo Ariat Lucchese

KILLER STILETTO Badgley Mischka Chinese Laundry B Brian Atwood Ivanka Trump

RAIN BOOTS Chooka Hunter Bogs Kamik

ONLINE RETAILER PlanetShoes Zappos Net-A-Porter (Write-in)

BOOTS Born White Mountain Frye Minnetonka

SURF Cushe Sanuk OluKai Vans

SIT & FITS Comfort One Shoes Miroballi Shoes Saxon Shoes (Write-in)

MEN’S COMFORT Ecco Alegria Aetrex Rockport

WORK BOOTS Wolverine Rocky Cat Keen

NATIONAL CHAIN DSW Nordstrom Bloomingdale’s (Write-in)

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BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE WHOLESALE (Write-in only) BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE RETAIL (Write-in only) BRAND OF THE YEAR Toms Birkenstock Sperry Top-Sider Steve Madden COMPANY OF THE YEAR VF Corporation Skechers Wolverine Worldwide Nike

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editor’s note getting digits

By the Numbers They say numbers don’t lie. Well, some do, some don’t and some just make you wonder. AS A SOCIETY, we are inundated by numbers daily, be it political polls, stock market reports, sales figures, sell-through rates, spreadsheet projections, demographic trends, casualty tolls, betting lines, page views, crime statistics, calorie counts, grade curves, gas prices, economic data.... The list goes on and on, and it seems not a day goes by without some number hitting the newswire to shock and awe us all. For example: $600 million. If that’s the price tag for the Obamacare web site, it’s no wonder 300 million-plus Americans—including the President—are disgusted, outraged and, let’s be honest, dumbfounded. How can so much be spent on an ineffective site when plenty of people build far more functional ones for peanuts? Here’s another whopper: $1.8 billion. That’s the fine the federal government levied against hedge fund billionaire Steven Cohen’s SAC Capital as punishment for the firm’s illegal insider trading scam that ran during the years when his fund outperformed everyone else’s by a mile. It’s just another Madoff-like example of scenarios when investor returns appear way too good to be true. (They usually are.) What makes that fine even more shocking, to me, is the fact that Cohen has amassed a $9 billion personal fortune while cheating. So the fine is really chump change, and talk about sending a message to anyone that cheating does pay incredible dividends. I’ll bet if the Feds dangled a 20-year prison term in front of Cohen he would at least be willing to shell out a few billion more in restitution. Maybe a portion of that could then be used to build an Obamacare web site that actually works. It’s just a suggestion. Now try wrapping your head around 80 billion. That’s the number of Earth-like habitable planets, give or take a few billion, that astronomers at the University of California, Berkeley and the University of Hawaii, using data from NASA’s Kepler space telescope, estimate are in our Milky Way galaxy alone! With only about seven billion people on Earth, everyone could get their own planet and have a “country house” planet as well with billions more to spare. The fact that the nearest sun-like star with a potential new Earth is a mere 12 light years away, well that’s a number I can digest, theoretically speaking.

Bringing it back to our world, 1774 is the year Birkenstock was founded. The company has endured through revolutions, world wars, the Industrial Age, the space age, the fall of communism, and more. And its cork footbed sandals keep on truckin’. David Kahan, CEO of the brand’s U.S. subsidiary and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 14), discusses the company’s recent revolutionary change in corporate direction. The repositioning, Kahan notes, is not solely aimed at maximizing sales amid Birkenstock’s current fashion revival, it’s about putting the company in position for its next 239 years. Compared to the standard five-year business plan, this may seem presumptuous, but, taking into account Birkenstock’s longevity, the odds are not nearly as long as they might sound. Our latest inductees to the Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame (p. 21) are two more examples of impressive longevity. Minnetonka’s Thunderbird moccasin, introduced in 1955, has sold millions of pairs worldwide. The Thunderbird has become a summer staple for generations of women who adore its lightweight comfort and versatile Native American styling. The ProWalker by Rockport, another American classic, has sold millions of pairs as well, and it remains a fixture on store shelves nationwide. Considered to be the first-ever fitness walking shoe (introduced in 1985), the style sparked the invention of a category that now accounts for more than $4 billion in sales annually. I find it reassuring to know that, amid the thousands of new styles that hit the market each season, the potential always exists for one to become the next Thunderbird or ProWalker. It’s like trying to win the lottery, only it’s not a game of chance. Talent, timing and hard work play into capturing the elusive lightning in a bottle. It’s a tireless quest that generates a kinetic energy, helping to propel our industry forward. And of this fact I’m 100 percent certain: It’s only a question of when another iconic style will be born. Of course, having been a working journalist for nearly 25 years, I feel compelled to give full disclosure: My obsession with numbers, percentages, and odds might stem from the fact that I am currently suffering nightmarish elementary school flashbacks while watching my 11-year-old daughter do her fractions homework.

1 5 2

9 8 6 4 3 70

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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TIMELESS

craftsmanship

MODERN

style

CON TACT YO UR T ERRITORY MANAGER TO PREVIEW T HE CLARKS FALL 2014 COLLECTION.

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THIS JUST IN

Inner Grace Fashion royalty revive a princess-approved skirt length. Photography by Melodie Jeng 8 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ december 2013

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scene and heard

SAS Founder Honored

2013 Plus Awards Nominees Announced FOOTWEAR PLUS HAS announced the nominees for its 15th annual Plus Awards in recognition of design and retail excellence in 2013. The Plus Awards, co-sponsored by FFANY, are the footwear industry’s only awards determined by the votes of wholesalers and retailers nationwide. Winners will be selected in 27 distinguished categories spanning the breadth of the footwear market. This year’s ballot features the addition of several new award categories, including Little Black Dress (Michael by Michael Kors, Vince Camuto, Sam Edelman and Boutique 9) and Suit & Tie (Ted Baker, Allen Edmonds, Johnston & Murphy and Cole Haan). Also new this year: the Killer Stiletto award (Badgley Mischka, Chinese Laundry, B Brian Atwood and Ivanka Trump) and Best Collab award, which recognizes the collaborations by Keds x Kate Spade, Dr. Martens x Agyness Deyn, Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld, Wolverine 1000 Mile by Samantha Pleet and Bass Loves Rachel Antonoff. The coveted Brand of the Year honor is between

Birkenstock, Toms, Sperry Top-Sider and Steve Madden, while the nominees for Company of the Year are twotime defending champ, Wolverine Worldwide and challengers VF Corp., Skechers and Nike. On the retail side, categories include National Chain of the year (DSW, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s) and Sit & Fits (Comfort One Shoes, Miroballi Shoes and Saxon Shoes). “Once again the Plus Award nominees represent another stellar collection of the best our industry has to offer from across the wholesale and retail spectrums,” says Caroline Diaco, publisher of Footwear Plus. “I urge everyone to make their voices heard by voting at www. footwearplusmagazine.com so we can acknowledge the best of the best of 2013.” The 2013 Plus Awards nominees appear on p. 5 of this issue and voting runs exclusively online throughout the month of December. Winners will be announced Feb. 5, 2014, during the FFANY show’s opening night party at the New York Hilton Midtown. Stay tuned for further details.

Skechers Raises $1 Million

Left to right: Tommy Lasorda, Michael Greenberg, Brooke Burke Charvet and Jimmy Kimmel.

THE SKECHERS FOUNDATION raised a record $1 million for children with special needs and education through its Pier to Pier Friendship Walk held in the company’s hometown of Manhattan Beach, CA. Celebrities Jimmy Kimmel, Brooke Burke Charvet and Tommy Lasorda led the way during the 5th annual event that also saw a record 10,000-plus participants. “We started this event with the idea that if everyone does a little, we all benefit a lot,” says Michael Greenberg, president of Skechers. “I saw extended families, celebrities and friends walking together. I saw our community and global companies giving for our kids.” In particular, Greenberg cites the Steel Partners Foundation for joining in a donation totaling $73,000 to help reach the $1 million milestone. Donations came from an extensive mix of local and national businesses, including presenting sponsor Nickelodeon, Zappos, DSW, Rack Room, United Legwear, Journeys, Finish Line and Foot Locker. Since the event began, more than $3 million has been raised to benefit the Friendship Circle, a non-profit organization that assists children with special needs and their families through one-on-one peer mentoring and social programs. The donations help save teachers’ jobs, retain vital educational programs, maintain smaller class sizes, improve libraries and upgrade school technology. For more information go to www.gotfriends.com.

TERRY ARMSTRONG, CRAFTSMAN, shoemaker and co-founder of San Antonio Shoemakers (SAS), was inducted posthumously into the National Shoe Retailers Association Hall of Fame during the organization’s recent Annual Leadership Conference in Boston. Armstrong’s induction marks the first time a shoemaker has been named to the NSRA Hall of Fame. “Terry changed the retail landscape in the 1980s with the introduction of the ever-popular Siesta,” says Nancy Richardson, CEO of SAS. “His vision and ingenious designs launched the SAS brand and set the company on a path of success.” The accolade recognizes Armstrong’s contribution in the area of excellence in shoemaking, combined with his leadership in retail, and personal and professional integrity. “I am honored to accept the award on behalf of my grandfather,” states Tyler Remmert, who works in the manufacturing department of SAS. “His passion and legacy will continue to live on through the SAS brand.” Disappointed in the diminishing quality and move to foreign manufacturing that occurred in the ’70s, Armstrong and Lew Hayden founded SAS in 1976 in San Antonio, TX. They began making shoes that set a new standard: superb craftsmanship and extraordinary comfort. With Armstrong and Hayden’s enduring legacy, SAS continues to produce shoes with the same painstaking care and to exacting standards with the very best materials available. Armstrong joins the likes of former NSRA President William Boettge, author and footwear historian William Rossi, and retail leader Lloyd W. Nordstrom—all who have had a tremendous impact on the footwear industry.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Have it Your Way Whether retailers are involved in the exchange or not, the made-to-order shoe segment is gaining momentum—one custom pair at a time. By Lyndsay McGregor brand’s signature style. Made in Pennsylvania ONCE UPON A time custom cobbling was and delivered within three to six weeks, opa thing of exclusivity, reserved for presidents, tions include six suede uppers and four sole colpopes and Wall Street fat cats. These days, ors for a total of 30 variations. “Having our own however, thanks to technological advances, factory in the U.S. offers Walk-Over the ability made-to-order footwear is something far to maintain high quality results with a very fast more accessible. While customization is nothturnaround,” McClaskie says, noting that the ing new—most people have doodled on their partnership might return next spring with new Chucks or swapped out standard issue shoeoptions. laces for boldly colored ones—today’s touchDominated by athletic giants for years screen kiosks in stores and easy-to-use tools (NikeiD, miAdidas, Puma Factory, YourReebok online allow consumers to take existing styles and Converse’s Design Your Own, to name a and handpick colors, materials and silhoufew), dress brands such as Allen Edmonds and ettes to create their personal styles. Even the Johnston & Murphy are enhancing their cuslikes of luxury fashion house Burberry offers a tomized shoe offerings, not to mention websites way for customers to design the trench coat of such as Chromatic Gallerie, Milk & Honey and their dreams and Kate Spade’s Saturday label Shoes of Prey. “It’s all about democratizing fashhas customizable weekenders. ion and giving the power back to the consumBlame it on the Millenials; it appears ers,” says Dorian Howard, co-founder of Milk & Generation Y likes to really have it their way. Honey, which allows women to design their own Saturated by brand pitches, marketing exstilettos and pumps online. “Traditional retailperts believe that these consumers have pretty ers—and department stores in general—have much seen and heard it all, thus they are lookbeen a bit slow to react to the amazing things ing for something that doesn’t come across as happening in e-commerce. We have agility and mass produced and generic. In an increasspeed. Instead of looking at us as direct comingly small world, they are seeking ways to petition they should embrace the work we have put their own unique stamp on the products done and look for collaborative partnerships.” they buy. As hip-hop mogul Kanye West once For the storied Johnston & Murphy, made-torapped, “There’s a thousand yous, there’s only order footwear is nothing new—the Genescoone of me.” owned subsidiary has been doing it for “Thanks to social media, fashion lovers are decades—but it officially launched its Custom instantly aware of any new trend or product,” Select program in 2005. Offering 10 styles in declares Monsieur Jerome, founder and ediextended sizes and widths and in three coltor of menswear blog MonsieurJerome.com. ors, each pair takes five to six weeks to make “In an always-on world, customers express a in the brand’s factory in Nashville, TN, and is firm desire to be different. Having your very personalized with the customer’s name on the own personal shoes defines the customer as a insole and on the cedar shoetree that it’s packleader.” aged with. “The order process either starts in a Tom McClaskie, president and creative director of Walk-Over, echoes this sentiment. From top: Allen Edmonds offers nine customizable styles; the touch Johnston & Murphy store with a sales associate screen kiosk at the New Balance Experience Store in New York. that can measure and fit, or if the customer is “From lifestyle décor to personalized restauconfident in his size, he can do it himself online,” rant menus, consumers want an opportunity says Marketing Manager Rachel Sigler, noting that the program has become to express themselves with every purchase,” he says. “It’s exciting to custommore popular in recent years thanks to a resurgence of razor-sharp suiting ers when they really have the ability to be in control of their own style and to and a renewed interest in made-in-the-U.S.A. product. “It offers customers modify goods to their liking.” a level up and it also helps some of our customers who have really hard-toTo this end, McClaskie’s Greenwich, CT-based brand, a division of H.H. fit feet, like if one foot is a whole size larger than the other.” She adds, “Right Brown, teamed up with Nordstrom.com in October to launch Build To Suit. now the styles are very classically inspired and we’re currently looking into Running online throughout the holiday shopping season, the interactive bringing in some of the newer, slimmer, fitted lasts and expanding our >46 shoe builder allows consumers to mix and match the uppers and soles of the 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

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BY GREG DUTTER

RISING ’STOCKS THANKS TO A REVOLUTIONARY CHANGE IN CORPORATE DIRECTION, DAVID KAHAN, CEO OF BIRKENSTOCK USA, IS LEADING THE CHARGE STATESIDE TO FULFILL THE LEGENDARY COMFORT BRAND’S ENORMOUS POTENTIAL.

ASK ANY CONSUMER what Birkenstock is and it’s a sure bet the most immediate response is shoes. Others might narrow it down and say sandals or comfort shoes. Others might go so far as to say it’s what granola types and Dead Heads wear. Or, as former President George W. Bush’s once derisively generalized, it’s the footwear of choice of liberal “Marin County hot-tubbers.” All true. Of late, however, an increasing number of people might say Birkenstock is the footwear choice of trendy celebrities (Julianne Moore, Kate Hudson, Heidi Klum, Usher and Ashton Kutcher, to name a few), supermodels (who prefer comfortable flats to killer stilettos when not strutting the catwalks) and Williamsburg hipsters, many of who are taking it up an anti-fashion notch by sporting their ’Stocks with socks. You see, Birkenstock is hot—again. The German comfort brand, whose origins date back to 1774 (That deserves repeating: 1774!), has been coming on strong for about the past year. David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA, attributes the revival to several factors, starting with the recent benign state of footwear fashion. “Footwear overall is doing well and outpacing ready-to-wear, but there hasn’t been a singular

trend driving the market for the last year or two,” he offers. That opens the door for the next big thing—or anything to help fill the vacuum. The fact that Birkenstock is an established name, appeals to a broad audience and is comfortable and casual are all attractive brand attributes to retailers rather than gambling on an unknown entity. Kahan goes a step further, placing the power of the Birkenstock name at the top of the footwear pyramid. “This is one of the most iconic brands— if not the most iconic—in the history of the footwear industry,” claims Kahan, who came on board in June following his most recent stint as executive director of the ENKWSA Show. (Prior to that he spent decades in the retail and wholesale sides of the business, including management positions at Macy’s, Reebok and Rockport.) “It’s nearly 230 years old, its best-selling styles have been in the line for more than 40 years and it’s one of the few brown shoe brands, if not the only one, to have any emotional connection the minute you hear it mentioned.” Kahan adds, “It all represents just latent potential in the U.S. market.” Beyond that, Kahan believes ready-to-wear designers are seeking ways to make clothing more directional. Enter Birkenstock. “Birkenstocks are almost like a blank canvas to draw attention to the clothing,” he says. Kahan also believes that in a post-recession landscape consumers are seeking sensibility for all aspects of their harried, unpredictable lives. Products that work, are dependable and versatile are in increasingly high demand. Again, enter Birkenstock. “It’s a brand that says something about somebody’s general sensibility. It’s classic yet modern and it works well, even as a juxtaposition against high fashion,” he offers. “Right now you see somebody wearing Rag & Bone jeans, carrying a Céline bag and wearing Birkenstocks, and the shoes complete the look without overpowering it.” Indeed, the planets appear to be aligning for a genuine Birkenstock revival. But, Kahan avows, this is no “fashion moment” that will fade once the hipsters and celebs move on. In fact, he says Birkenstock is seizing on its current momentum and, for the first time in its 40-year history in the U.S., doing everything in its collective power (read between the lines: management worldwide is finally all on the same page) to fulfill its destiny as that of a major lifestyle brand. It’s all there for the taking, which Kahan says starts with having feet on the ground to understand the specific wants and needs of U.S. consumers. “If you want to be a broader player you need to understand the nuances of this market,” he offers. “You need to have expertise on who these consumers are, how to target them, how they shop and how your

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

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O&A brand fits within the matrix of other brands that a retailer carries.” It marks a far cry from past practices when product and policy decisions were dictated from Germany. That coupled with a revolving door of U.S. subsidiary leaders contributed greatly to the brand’s eroding sales over the past decade. “There was nothing wrong with the brand,” Kahan maintains. “You just cannot run a brand effectively with leadership changes every 12 months.” He adds that Birkenstock also failed to connect with U.S. retailers. “Birkenstock had basically been a distributor of shoes rather than a true partner in the marketplace,” he says. But those days are long gone. Kahan says the new management philosophy represents a “revolution, not an evolution.” It involves the implementation of best practices across the board, includWhat are you reading? I’m ing improved terms, new POP and sellalways reading two or three ing materials for 2014 (a first for the things at the same time. I brand in about 10 years) and a shift in just finished the Springsteen marketing focus from consumer direct biography, Bruce, by Peter to selling through retail partners. “We Ames Carlin, David and are rolling out a retail intensification Goliath by Malcolm Gladwell program where our partners are going and All In by Adrian Gostick, to be rewarded with much stronger which is a must for any investment on our part,” Kahan says, manager seeking alignment adding that growth is not meant to and organization. be solely at the expense of competitors. The ultimate goal is to generate What is inspiring you? The new business for Birkenstock’s retailteam at Birkenstock. When I ers. “This is not about just trading dolarrived I said they needed to lars from one brand to the next,” he toss out the rear view mirror, confirms. “Any retailer that’s just doing and they have. Everyone that right now is still going to probably is raising their game and struggle.” Similar to the way Ugg repplaying like winners. Some resented new business, Kahan believes of our reps even carry a rear Birkenstock possesses the same potenview mirror in their sample tial. “We are a consumer brand that bags so if a retailer brings up wasn’t treating ourselves as such,” he previous missteps they pull says. “We have been hidden behind a out the mirror and say that’s shoemaking operation. Now we are in the past. unleashing the power of being a consumer brand.” What famous person in history do you identify This time around for Birkenstock it’s with? Michelangelo. When truly different, yes? asked how he sculpted the Without a doubt. The most significant aspect is it represents a global change in direction, not just in the U.S. It is shifting our entire organization from a, quote-unquote, old German shoe manufacturing and production driven business to a true global sales and marketing brand driven one. Birkenstock has been a sleeping giant and treated by a lot of retailers as an annuity: They carried 10 to 12 models, they filled in every week, it was a nice business and they were happy enough. But nobody really asked, “How do we unleash the power of a brand that really connects to consumers?” That’s what we are doing now. And every single person in a position of leadership is relatively new to the company. They are people who have phenomenal track records and believe in working together as a team. We are all on the same page. There’s such mutual respect now. Also, it’s not like I’m reinventing the wheel. A lot of the things that everybody knew were the right things to do just weren’t being done. Now I’m empowered to do so.

For example? Our first global head of design and development is coming on board in January, which is something Birkenstock USA never had before. He will be a part of the German product team, but he’ll be feet on the ground in the U.S. to understand the specific needs and tastes of this consumer. It will mark the first time someone from Birkenstock will be able to really understand the differences between Cincinnati, San Francisco and New York.

OFF THE CUFF David statue without a model, he responded that he had the vision in his mind. I use that analogy all the time here. What is your motto? Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate, it’s that we are powerful beyond measure. Who would be your most coveted dinner guest? Bruce Springsteen. What is your least favorite word? No. What is your favorite part of the day? Early morning, especially living on the West Coast now. I’m literally living a day-and-a-half each day because I’m still on East Coast time.

So plenty of specific styles for the U.S. market? Absolutely. For 2014, a significant portion of our line will consist of specifically developed products. And while we believe nobody understands the U.S. market better than we do, we are asking our retailers for input. It’s why we will be the most visible sales force going forward. We are asking a lot of questions and taking into consideration what our retailers feel the brand should be doing. At the same time, I tell our team that we’re brand stewards and we will always be careful and respectful of the brand. It sounds like a page straight out of the old Clarks playbook. Clarks circa the ’90s to the ’00s is my operating model. They took the European comfort model and created a U.S. comfort business. They did it because they had leadership based in the U.S. that understood this consumer and retailer, and they had the autonomy to do what they needed to do to reach critical mass.

What is your distribution strategy? First and foremost, we are going to expand distribution within our current partners. There’s no doubt that we are What sound do you love? going to grow dramatically with them. The first eight notes of Over and above that, we are expanding Badlands. with the right doors for Birkenstock, but who have not been with the brand consistently in the past. Most notably, Nordstrom will be a major Birkenstock retailer in 2014. Why has Nordstrom expanded its commitment? I think they see the value and equity in this brand. They see how we play a role that no other brand can and see this sweet spot we can fill. Our initial test with them this past spring was exceptional—to the point where next spring we’ll roll it out substantially in men’s, women’s and kids’. We are going to do some pretty unique marketing programs with them as well as some exciting product collaborations. Similarly, we have been featured in some runway shows and in the fashion press over the last year. And because we have no minimums and we own core inventory in our iconic styles, we will do some test programs in select fashion boutiques. We also did a special product introduction with J. Crew this year, which is a program the compa-

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O&A ny would not have been able to execute prior to the change in direction. Moreover, partnering with the likes of J. Crew, Nordstrom and better boutiques creates a halo effect. And before the change in direction… When Birkenstock had its moments in the past it hid in its comfort zone and acted almost like it didn’t want any new consumers to embrace the brand. The difference now is we do. Basically, we’re saying, “Hey, all of you fashion types who are now into Birkenstock, welcome to the club. You’re finding out what we’ve known all along: Our shoes feel great.” Rather than be afraid of it, we are embracing it but without changing our brand DNA. What we are doing differently is saying this is our place in the market and we want to own it. Anyone who has glommed business off of what Birkenstock established, we are now standing a lot stronger and saying we have the brand equity and this is how we expect to be presented at retail. The fact is the vast majority of brands in this space are interchangeable shoe suppliers and don’t trigger an emotional response like Birkenstock does. Our goal is to emerge as a true brand in the brown shoe world, where consumers traditionally haven’t been brand driven. In return for that, we are going to play the retail game a lot differently than we have in the past. Ugg is about the only brand with similar reconition is this space. I agree. And I use Ugg as a reference internally and with retailers with a lot of what we’re doing with Birkenstock. They are an example of a brand that evolved from an item into a $700 million business in the U.S. They have elevated themselves above every other footwear supplier in this space over the last 10 years. But the beauty with Birkenstock unlike, say, Sperry and, perhaps to a lesser extent, Ugg, is we have an arsenal of silhouettes to work with. Everyone knows us for our Arizona sandal, but one of our hottest styles this season was our Giza thong. And our Boston clog, which has been almost out of the market, is receiving increasing interest. Similar to the way Nike can go back repeatedly to its Air Force 1 and Air Max silhouettes, we feel we have the same equity in some of our iconic shoes that we haven’t even begun to manifest. We just need to activate them and manage them the right way with the right partners. We have a great chassis and all we need to do is, basically, play Mr. Potato Head on top of it. We can update uppers all day long to keep proven silhouettes fun, relevant and innovative. But it’s not just about updates on reissues, right? Absolutely. Birkenstock has enough equity that the consumer will allow us to introduce new silhouettes, which we haven’t done much over the years. Fall ’14 is when you see the needle move further in that regard. What kind of silhouettes, exactly? We’re not talking heels, but it’s only a short jump to do some new silhouettes that will still speak to the same consumer as well as new ones. It’s the ideal time to do so now that the brand has momentum. Introducing new looks should be met with greater acceptance. We are also going to introduce some fun brand extensions. For example, if you search online there’s a trend brewing of socks with Birkenstocks. There are hundreds of pictures online of people sporting the look. So next fall we are launching “Socks and ’Stocks.” We’ve partnered with Wheat, a California company, to make Birkenstock socks that will be merchandised together with select sandal styles in our leading accounts. We’ll have a POP displays promoting the look. We are also introducing, similar to what Ugg has done, a shoe care kit that includes a cork life extender. It’s all in an effort to bring the brand to life at retail.

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What type of growth are you projecting for 2014? We are going to grow the U.S. business dramatically. Not just the top line, but the bottom line as well. This will be a very profitable business. And we are going to reinvest our profits to a larger degree than we ever have into our retail partners. I believe any marketing efforts we do need to help sellthrough product. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really need to beat the drum trying to inform consumers what Birkenstock is about. People already know that, but what they need to do now is go to a store and buy it. Because the last thing retailers need to hear me saying is, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how I want to grow my business.â&#x20AC;? If that only amounts to trading dollars between Birkenstock and some other brand, why should they care? I want to show them how they can grow their business on top of what they are already doing. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not opening any significant new distribution so that when the waters rise all ships should rise. And with Bloomingdaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Nordstrom carrying the brand, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no reason why an independent dealer shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be up 25 to 30 percent next year just based on our overall energy in the marketplace. It entails growth from across the consumer spectrum? Absolutely. For example, there are plenty of women who used to wear Birkenstock back in college and moved on to other styles as they moved through their careers, but are now rediscovering the brand. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also older consumers who, for podiatric reasons, need the brand for its features and benefits. In addition, this aging population is the first generation that has been involved in competitive sports as adults. So the whole idea of recovery footwear, well Birkenstock was the first recovery shoe without trying to be one. I will go so far as to say that if you run on a regular basis, I guarantee you will extend your running life by wearing Birkenstocks when you are not running. Last but not least, there are the fashion consumers. The difference is when they wear them they learn what Birkenstock is really all about. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not like

my wife when sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearing Jimmy Choos. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care how great they look, she is not going to walk from a taxi to a restaurant and say her feet feel great. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why when the fashion frenzy slows down it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter, because people who wear Birkenstock believe it changes their lives. Many become disciples. This is one of the few brands that have rabid fans. Not a week goes by that we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t receive letters from people who state that wearing Birkenstocks has changed their lives. Now we have basically two sets of consumers: Those whose buying decisions are driven by aching feet. And those whose buying decisions are influenced by runway shows and Vogue editorials. You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t name another comfort brand that spans that broad of a demographic. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why we believe Birkenstock has the strength to be a destination brand as opposed to just one of a variety of sandal options. In five years where do you see Birkenstock in the U.S.? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no doubt weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll look back on this period and say this wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t any fashion moment, rather it was the launching pad to Birkenstock becoming a legitimate lifestyle brand. I expect we will have a much more significant year-round business and, more than anything, to be the best-in-class supplier and partner to the retail community. I want to establish the most retailcentric organization in the industry. If Rockport peaked at around $400 million in sales annually, what is Birkenstockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall potential? Oh, Birkenstock should easily be a $500 million business. The brand doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even distribute in half of the places around the world that it could. And then there are leather goods and bag markets that we have every right to play in. It just takes the right management team. Personally, I did not come here >47

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StateFa

F o o t w e a r

p lu s

style hall of

fame Previous inductees: 2007: Vans “Checkerboard”; Ferragamo “Vara”; Clarks “Wallabee”; Merrell “Jungle Moc”; 2008: Nike “Air Force 1”; Ugg “Classic Short”; Bernardo “Miami”; Dr. Martens “1460”; 2009: Frye “Campus”; Reebok “Freestyle”; Stride Rite “Parker II”; Birkenstock “Arizona”; 2010: Converse “Chuck Taylor All Star”; Hush Puppies “Earl.” 2011: Sperry Top-Sider “Authentic Original”; Tecnica “Moon Boot.” 2012: Keds “Champion”; Tod’s “Gommino.”

2013 Inductees

Minnetonka “Thunderbird”

Rockport “ProWalker” 2013 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

minnetonka thunderbird

Minnetonka’s simple, beaded Thunderbird moccasin encapsulates the essence of American styling and, in doing so, captured the fancy of Europeans. By Angela Velasquez

Thunder

Long before Throwback Thursday was a weekly ritual, Minnetonka’s Thunderbird moccasins were flying off the shelves of Seguin’s House of Cheese in Marinette, WI—an unlikely bestseller held in the same ranks as the cheese emporium’s popular extra sharp cheddar and requisite cheese foam hats. Located on a main road connecting Chicago to Canada, Owner Ron Seguin recalls the tourists in the ’70s who snapped up the moccasins en route to their summer holidays. Nowadays with the likes of Nicole Richie and Kate Hudson wearing the effortless mocs and being captured by the paparazzi, Minnetonka Director of Marketing Kalyn Waters says, “We have enough celebrity photos for Throwback Thursdays for the next five years.” First introduced in 1955, the beaded whipstitched moc with a tuft of fringe has been a mainstay in Minnetonka’s line ever since. A little Thunderbird trivia: the debut version came in white leather, which was soon followed by brown and black suede. In the ensuing decades, an array of colors have been made available. But CEO David Miller points out that the style wasn’t an instant case of lightning in a bottle. “It was accepted but not what we would call a great initial success,” he recalls. His father, Marshall, designed the Thunderbird as an ode to the Native American beadwork that caught his fancy. For what Miller describes as a tiny company at the time that offered just a few moccasin styles, the beading was really a unique way to distinguish one style from the next. Eventually, he notes, it became a steady seller. “We were pleased with its performance within our line of mocs,” Miller says, modestly. To say the Thunderbird went on to earn its keep is an understatement of iconic style proportions. With no real intended target consumer beyond the general Minnetonka wearer, the shoe became a popular souvenir item at gift shops near national parks and many other resort areas across the country. For example, in Nisswa, MN, where the population swells from 30,000 to 300,000 in the summer, Biff Ulm, manager of family-owned Zaiser’s Souvenir & Gift, has seen generations of families purchase the Thunderbird. “The shoe is representative of the

Reign 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

Northern Minnesota lake country. It’s a tradition to buy it,” he explains. Miller recalls Melissa Coker, designer of the Los Angeles-based clothing line Wren (and most recently a Minnetonka collaborator) telling him how picking up a new pair of Thunderbirds on the way to her family’s cabin was a signal that summer vacation had officially begun. “And we hear that repeatedly,” Miller says. “The shoe is part of personal histories.” The first real hint that the Thunderbird had international appeal and would become an iconic style is when French tourists visiting New York were pillaging Manhattan retailers’ inventory with the intent to resell the mocs in Parisian boutiques. It was 1978, just before the Urban Cowboy craze struck America, and Miller says it was a distinct Americana look already brewing in France. “It doesn’t happen so much anymore, but at that time Europe still dictated our fashion,” he says. “If you needed to know what was selling in the U.S. all you had to do was look to see what was selling in Europe a few seasons prior.” Those smuggled pairs of Thunderbirds quickly led to Minnetonka establishing distribution throughout Europe. “Our distributors kept saying, ‘Just wait until it washes back to the U.S.,’ but at the time we were just too close to the product,” Miller recalls. “We had been selling it for decades. We wondered what made it unique now?” The Thunderbird, in fact, was at the helm of the Western street fashion fad. Less polarizing than a full-on cowboy boot and more practical than a Stetson, the style easily suited a range of women’s wardrobes and its reign carried on for four years, peaking in 1983. “All of our mocs were pulled along by this Western-inspired fashion movement, but it was the Thunderbird moc that became a worldwide fashion item as a result,” Miller states. Minnetonka saw another uptick in the Thunderbird’s popularity beginning in 2005 when moccasins were deemed a must-have amongst bohemian trendsetters. An extensive list of celebrities also coveted the style, including Kate Bosworth, Hilary Duff, Selma Blair, Kirsten Dunst and Avril Lavigne. But, Miller states, it’s always been very organic. “We’re not placing product as an orchestrated PR move,” he says. “They discover the shoe themselves.” That celebrity following has impacted sales at California-based Kitson, where the Thunderbird has sold consistently for the last eight years. “It certainly helps,” says Founder Fraser Ross, adding that the shoe’s celebrity connection is almost as important to the brand as a logo. “They own it.” Amongst Kitson’s selection of trendy platforms and boots, the moc stands out as a familiar American classic. “It hits every demographic from the yummy mummies to the college kids, and the shoe goes with everything,” he says. Ulm agrees: “There’s really two types of customers now: the people who buy the Thunderbird for nostalgic

reasons and the collegeage crowd that buys it for fashion.” And while he isn’t selling 100 pairs a day like he once did, Ulm reports the store did “gangbusters” with the limited edition Wren x Minnetonka Thunderbird this year. “It brought a more mature, sophisticated Nordstrom, hip crowd,” he says of the metallic beaded, deerskin moc. Apart from a rounder toe, tweaks to the sole and the occasional seasonal color variations, few modifications have been made to the style over the years. The trademarked image of the Thunderbird beaded design remains the same. In terms of sales, suede versions exceed the original white leather, which was an anomaly in itself because it sold equally well in the spring and fall. Another aspect that’s never changed: the fact that the Thunderbird continues to be a hit with Europeans. Priced under $40, Ross says his European clientele are wowed at the value and like to bring home several pairs. “People want their high heels to be expensive, but their flats need to be comfortable, go-to shoes that are priced right,” he says, noting Thunderbirds consistently sell at full price. As for what the Thunderbird’s future holds, Miller says the company is open to adapting the style in creative ways to make it more contemporary. But the exec is also perfectly happy to continue offering the shoe in its classic version that has resonated with millions of consumers for 50-plus years. “It’s the simplicity of its classic design, the comfort and, certainly for many people, the memories associated with where and when they wore their first pair,” he says of the Thunderbird’s enduring popularity. “There’s a true emotional connection with this style. Women keep coming back to buy it and pass it down to their daughters and now granddaughters,” the exec says. “And we never get tired of people sharing their stories about it.” •

Clockwise from top: An ad dating back to 1960 highlights the Thunderbird’s open stock program, which is still in place today; an array of colors refresh a classic; the signature beadwork is done by hand.

2013 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

minnetonka thunderbird

Minnetonka’s simple, beaded Thunderbird moccasin encapsulates the essence of American styling and, in doing so, captured the fancy of Europeans. By Angela Velasquez

Thunder

Reign 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

2013 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

ROCKPORT PROWALKER

Walk On

When Rockport launched the first fitness walking shoe in 1985, the ProWalker created a whole new category of footwear, becoming a brand trait that resonates nearly 30 years later and counting. By Lyndsay McGregor

FROM PACKS OF sweat suit-clad walkers doing their morning laps along shopping mall corridors to workplaces issuing pedometer challenges to willing employees to millions of people of all ages participating in charitable fundraising walks each year, it’s hard to imagine an America where walking was not thought of as a legitimate fitness activity. But back in the ’70s, less than 40 percent of Americans were taking advantage of this simple—and free—form of exercise. Rockport co-founder Bruce Katz, however, was one person who was at the time. “Bruce had two passions in life besides footwear: sailing and walking,” recalls Frank Carroll, regional account representative at the Adidas-owned subsidiary. “He very much enjoyed walking for exercise, and he wanted to build a shoe specifically designed and marketed for fitness walking.” It was during the early ’80s—at a time when the running boom of the previous decade was fading out—when Katz became more determined than ever to design the perfect walking shoe. “He saw walking as the perfect alternative for customers who weren’t going to run, swim or go to the gym,” Carroll says. Rockport was already known as a maker of lightweight comfort footwear, and Katz first embarked on a multifaceted marketing program to promote walking as an exercise, sponsoring Gary Yanker and Rob Sweetgall, the country’s foremost advocates of fitness walking, and becoming a corporate member of the American Running & Fitness Association. But Katz knew there was more to do because, while people were starting to walk for fitness more, they were doing so primarily in jogging shoes.

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Enter the ProWalker. After extensive research on the foot and its mechanics while walking, Rockport designers discovered that there are basic differences between a good running shoe and a walking one, namely the last shape and rigidity of the sole. Taking these findings, the company introduced the ProWalker as part of its RocSports line in 1985. Initially aimed at men age 45 and older, the ProWalker featured an extended heel counter for lateral stability and support, a rocker profile to aid the natural walking motion, a Vibram Superflex outsole for durability and a Poron insole to cushion stress points. Outside magazine dubbed it “the Mercedes-Benz of walking shoes.” “Customers flocked to the shoe right from the get-go; they finally had a shoe they could wear while walking their dog or walking with their spouses,” Carroll says, adding that the style has since sold in the millions of pairs worldwide. “This shoe hit the market and changed people’s lives,” notes Bob Mullaney, president of Rockport Americas. “People were nervous because it was a new concept, but the marketplace took a wonderful liking to the shoe because it resonated. There were a lot of consumers looking for a product that would perform, and the style was easily translatable to everyday wear as opposed to many other athletic styles.” New York stalwart Harry’s Shoes was one of the first retailers to pick up the ProWalker. According to Owner Robert Goldberg, the shoe is the epitome of “an authentic original.” “It was something of a revolutionary product at the time because in that era walking footwear wasn’t thought of as a category,” he says. Danny Wasserman, co-owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York, agrees. “At the time the ProWalker came out, athletic shoes other than tennis and basketball really had no classification as they do today. Back then there was no such thing as walking shoes, cross trainers, trail running shoes, etc. The ProWalker was an important shoe for the entire industry. It made the walking category what it is today,” he says, noting that it’s “right up there” with some of Tip Top’s all-time bestsellers. “At times we’ve needed to pre-book the shoes in order to get product,” Wasserman adds. The ProWalker remains a leading seller to this day for the brand. When online retailer PlanetShoes added Rockport to its selection in early 2012, the decision to carry the ProWalker

was a no-brainer. “It’s an integral part of Rockport’s business,” says Brooks Maitland, director of merchandising. “There’s a consumer that just replaces it and replaces it.” She adds, “The fact that it comes in extended sizes and widths is a huge benefit to the consumer. The wides and extra wides really sell well.” While the ProWalker has changed aesthetically over the years, including technical updates such as an amply cushioned heel cup, the addition of shock-absorbing open-cell foam in the forefoot and blisterpreventing collar, and supportive Vibram outsole, its fundamental design remains the same. “Each season we’ve had to reflect the change and movement of style,” explains Dave Pompel, vice president of Rockport’s men’s product. “But what hasn’t changed is this notion of walkability, this commitment to the ability to move on your feet. That’s the DNA of the shoe and the brand.” These days the original ProWalker wearers are entering their retirement years. But unlike any generation before, many of them remain active. And while they may not be running as much, they are definitely still walking. “Walking products have evolved so I would say that it’s become more of a utilitarian type of purchase,” notes Goldberg. Maitland agrees: “It’s an older customer— someone who’s much more concerned about fit and comfort.” The walkability of the ProWalker remains a design tenet for Rockport’s entire collection. It spans its latest TruWalk Zero effort—the brand’s lightest ever collection of walking shoes—to Total Motion, which fuses stylish uppers with sports technology to deliver all-day comfort for the busy metropolitan professional, to RocSports Lite, a collection of casual dress shoes weighing less than the average running shoe. “The ProWalker was never built to be a seasonal item; it was built to be a transformative item in an area that was untapped,” Carroll says. Mission accomplished. “We’re proud of a number of shoes in our portfolio, but the ProWalker is a very special one,” Mullaney says. “It’s helped carry us forward as a brand.” •

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2013 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

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w hat ’s se lli n g de s i g n e r b out i que s

FOOTCANDY RV

Sonoma, CA

ootcandy Owner Carolyn Butler and her friendly staff of fancy footwear fiends take their show on the road in a 35-foot cotton candy pink RV with a bunk space filled to the rafters with shoeboxes from the likes of Steven Dann, Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin. “I was inspired by a taco truck,” Butler laughs, noting, “If food can be sold out of trucks, then why can’t shoes?” Since 2011, the Footcandy RV has been pulling up to swank events from Sacramento to San Diego, including this year’s Napa Valley Wine Auction and the Sonoma Horse Show, where riding boots were an obvious best in show. The bus doubles as a party venue for ladies with a taste for designer shopping and champagne, too. “We’ll put deck chairs outside, offer drinks, anything the customer wishes,” Butler explains, adding that at least two Footcandy staff members are on board to ensure fittings and speedy service. What’s the next stop on the RV’s GPS? A Footcandy RV could be heading out east soon—and a reality show is in the works. In the meantime the owner and shoe designer (she launched a house line four years ago) says the pink-and-white striped gem makes a fantastic roaming billboard for the original Footcandy brick-and-mortars in St. Helena and Sonoma. And as for the driver of such precious cargo, Butler says her employee, a former pilot, loves the road show. “People beep their horns and wave at him as he passes by,” she says. —Angela Velasquez What are your top selling labels this fall? Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Loeffler Randall, as well as our own Footcandy brand. It hits the sweet spot—a great shoe, great fit and most of the line is priced under $200. Everyone can’t buy a Louboutin. What are the season’s leading trends? The exit shoe—styles that are simple when you look at it from the front, but then have a beautiful design on the back. Jimmy Choo did a good example of one with a plain white shoe that has a bright pink snake on the back. Flats are another big trend. We can’t always be in heels and I think designers are finally getting smart about that, including Louboutin. And I’m seeing lots of black and white. It’s a classic look, and women know that if you buy that one classic style you’ll have it for ages. What style always seems to be popular with your customer? The espadrille. It’s a great go-to shoe for a wide range of ages. Which style seems to be falling out of fashion? Wedges have been disappointing. They work on espadrilles but not as well as it once did on other styles. And I didn’t see many when I was buying for next season. I think shoes are becoming more ladylike, which I love. The pointy toe, pencil skirt look is one of my favorites. What has been the best new label added to your mix of late? Rupert Sanderson. He’s amazingly creative and his shoes are so well made. He knows that it is all about finding the right factory and focuses on the craftsmanship of his shoes.

Footcandy

Rupert Sanderson

The best thing about 2013 has been… Our customer service has reached a new level. We changed our staff and website. It’s been a roller coaster year and change is hard, but sometimes you have to do it to improve. The worst… I should have started my own label a lot earlier. Footcandy is great name and has a lot of potential. Even designers say they love the name and wish they had thought of it. We have a team of lawyers protecting it [laughing]. What are your bestselling accessories? Handbags and sunglasses. Women are so funny. They’ll debate on whether or not they want to spend $200 on a pair of shoes and then turn around and spend $300 on sunglasses. Tom Ford’s are the most popular. Ray-Bans are also great. They’re a staple, but even they are getting a bit pricey. What are you most looking forward to in Spring ’14? I’ve been looking at getting my own reality show. It’s in talks right now, but I think it would be a great way to show the background and what really goes on in the shoe business. If it all comes together, then Footcandy will become a household name. Who is your favorite shoe designer? I love them all, I really do. Every designer is different with something new and unique to bring to the table. Each showroom I go to, I’m always oohing and ahhing. Which up-and-coming designer are you excited about? Tabitha Simmons from the U.K. I get all my copies of British Vogue and other European fashion magazines and I notice her shoes.

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w h at ’s se lli n g d e s i g n e r b out i que s

BOOTLEG AIRSTREAM

Austin, TX

he name might be Bootleg, but there’s nothing copycat about stylist-turned-retailer Sarah Ellison Lewis’ two-year-old boutique in her home state of Texas. The 30-foot land yacht Airstream aluminum trailer, decked out with original benches, “cool old wood” and accoutrements with a utilitarian urban flair, is home to contemporary fashion labels, including Elizabeth & James, Laurence Dacade and Jil Sander Navy, as well as rare ones like Nisolo and LD Tuttle—designers that Lewis discovered while styling for the likes of Refinery 29, Barneys New York and Lucky. “I wanted it to be something super memorable,” Lewis says of her choice of retail venues. Plus, she notes, a trailer rather than a traditional brickand-mortar store is easier to shutdown when she hits the road on buying trips (the store is open most weekends), or goes on the road to set up her latest venture, Bootleg Market. Lewis likens the global peer-to-peer shoe marketplace to “Etsy or eBay but with the look of Style.com.” And like a true stylist (and brand manager), Lewis knows that a consistent image is key to a successful business, especially in fashion. Bootleg Airstream and the website, along with its original photography share a black and white theme—a look that just so happens to compliment the shoes currently on its shelf. —A.V. Who is your core customer? The Bootleg girl and her guy are people you want to be friends with and have a drink with. She likes to wear very heavy boots with a dress or jeans. A lot of our product has a masculine twist. What are your top selling labels this fall? LD Tuttle and Plomo, a brand from Spain, for women; and Nisolo chukkas and J Shoes for men.

Sarah Ellison Lewis, owner

What are the season’s leading trends? I think women are trying to wrap their head around the black and white trend, which we’ve always done, but that’s selling well right now. Women really love simple and blocky patterns, cutouts and two tones like gray with black—anything that feels modern. For men, understated heritage leathers are leading. They want anything that isn’t fussy. What has been the best new label added to your mix of late? Nisolo. Which style seems to be falling out of fashion? Well, not even the most fashion forward people want to spend a ton of money on trendy shoes. If a style is crazy embellished or super ornate, it’s very rare that people will actually buy it. They want things that will stay in their wardrobe, which is why everything we carry is very specific. The shoes have some personality and will speak to you for a long time. What style always seems to be popular in your locale? The chukka boot. What are your bestselling accessories? Walter’s Shoe Care is popular. It’s a brand out of Canada. They make beautiful creams and cleaners in beautiful packaging. 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

Plomo

What are you most looking forward to in Spring ’14? In the spirit of Bootleg Market, we’re going to start offering more vintage pieces at the store. People really love picking up vintage styles. Who is your favorite shoe designer? Tiffany Tuttle, designer of LD Tuttle. Her designs are very unexpected and very forward. She uses desaturated colors, like soft gray and chalky white, and lightweight woods that make packing the shoes so easy. I can wear them all year, no matter what city I’m in.

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Rebel Rebel an excess of amped up elements revolutionize grunge style. Photography by Trevett McCandliss STYLING BY KIM JOHNSON

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Multi-strap Mary Jane by Modern Vice, vintage Betsey Johnson dress, Southpaw plaid shirt, United Legwear fishnet tights, necklace by Rebel & Quill. 31

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This page, from top: Mia Limited pump, ankle strap peep toe by Raphael Young. Opposite: Southpaw dress, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hat.

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Wedge saddle shoes by Koolaburra, Screaming Mimi’s dress, Falke tights, stylist’s hat. Opposite: Adidas Neo platform sneakers, Screaming Mimi’s sweater, Topshop plaid pants, Maison Michel hat.

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Vans studded platform hi-tops, Vivienne Westwood T-shirt, blue plaid shirt by Topshop, Maison Martin Margiela skirt, vintage flannel shirt worn around waist by Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Opposite: fisherman sandals by Dr. Martens, Topshop T-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang skirt, United Legwear tights, bracelet by Rebel & Quill.

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FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ; HAIR: SEIJI, THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP: WENDY KARCHER; MODEL: TAYLOR, MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT

This page, from top: sneaker by Not Rated, wedge cutout sneaker by Ruthie Davis. Opposite: Laurence Dacade striped Mary Jane, dress by French Connection.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Military Dress

Enlisting subtle details for a gritty take on men’s dress styles for spring.

Trask

D E S I G N E R C H AT : Vincent Bottesi

Time Traveler What is your first fashion memory? My first memory is when I saw a picture of my mother when she was 18 years old. It was taken in the ’60s and she’s wearing over-the-knee boots like Brigitte Bardot. I was really impressed! Who is your target customer? Strong women with a high sense of elegance à la française. Nostalgic yet admitting their addiction to fashion as a way to always renew themselves. Complex and intriguing. Which celebrity would you love to see in one of your designs? Lady Gaga. I’d like to see how she could combine my vision of the past with her own modern art. And also because she can wear very high heels. Where do you like to vacation? Corsica, because it’s wild and free, just like me. If you weren’t designing shoes, what would you be doing? I’d be an actor. What trend do you hope to never see again? Everything is acceptable as long as it’s made with refinement and taste. What is your design signature? My signature is my retro modern vision and my ability to design shoes that seem to come to life as soon as they are worn. They are like little living creatures—artistic animals. When do you usually feel the most creative? I do most of my designing at night. What is your pet peeve? The green monster, jealousy. What are your favorite fashion magazines? I love reading all the 20th century issues of L’Officiel. Which designer do you admire the most? André Perugia—he’s very innovative, inventive and a real precursor to the direction footwear is going in.

Carlo Pazolini

Bass

Walk-Over

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

LIKE A TRUE Frenchman, designer Vincent Bottesi loves women. So much so that after graduating art school he trained in shoemaking in Romans-sur-Isère, the heart of luxury cobbling in France, to learn how to design the accessories he describes as, “unique, powerful and offer women the noble status they deserve.” Bottesi’s initial collection, which launched in 2012, was an ode to ’60s icon Twiggy. He describes the signature, curved heel to have come out of that collection as “romantically fragile but seductively strong at the same time.” The Swinging ’60s continues to leave its mark for Spring ’14 with a range of heels that reflect the French New Wave art movement. “I played with ingredients that served the past as well as have a place in modern design, but blending retro fashion with a futuristic vision,” Bottesi explains. Shades of green and blue contrast with layers of white, yellow, red and orange throughout the collection. A new transparent heel “sublimates” the shoes for a sophisticated look. “We can travel through time with this collection,” he quips. Priced from $300 to $600 retail, the designer says he’s targeting better luxury boutiques. “My creations celebrate an authentic French savoir-faire and a tradition that I’m proud to honor and perpetuate through my one-of-a-kind designs,” he says. —Angela Velasquez 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

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AC C E S S O R I E S SPRING 2014 REVIEW Dorfman Pacific straw fedora

Summer

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Sperry Top-Sider tote

Ivory + Mason sunglasses

Ipanema wedge thongs

Linea Pelle braided belt

Knots Landing Any legit Boy Scout will tell you the six basic knots to master are the reef, clove, sheepshank, bowline, sheetbend and (the most in need of an acronym) round turn and two half hitches. Any legit fashionista will tell you that you only need one knot this season: either on a whimsical seafaring hat or a chic beach-to-street canvas tote. For extra merit points, add classic nautical stripes, a blast of ocean blue and retro shades for coolness.

La Mer wrap watch

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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Camilla silk scarf Victoria Bekerman necklace

Wakami beaded bracelet

Will Leather Goods huaraches Sensi Studio woven tote

Tropical Market

No one ever praises Brazil for its understated elegance. Bright, electric and playful, the country’s lush lands and lively celebrations have been inspiring collections for a number of seasons, but never more so than for Spring ’14. With the world’s attention turning to the 2014 World Cup host country, we suspect these hot-hued totes and festive baubles will add a kick to the season’s treasure trove of palm frond print dresses, bikinis and sandals. And even if soccer isn’t your game, at least bask in the tropical glory. After all, the 2018 World Cup will take place in chilly Russia.

Toms sunglasses

Hipanema layered bracelet

Fruit Smoothie

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

Low fat and rich in flavor, it should come as no surprise that sorbet is beach bunnies’ treat of choice. And like the tart and tangy taste of the icy concoction, the refreshing palette of mint, tangerine and grapefruit brightening up accessories is a perfect counterpart to a balmy summer day. Lightweight fedoras and textured beach mats add a So-Cal surfer vibe, while beach-friendly rubber totes and flip-flops soak in the colors.

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Roxy beach mat Lacoste beach towel

Bando headband

Crocs jelly tote

Ocean Minded flip-flops

Hat Attack straw panama

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UPCL OSE CO M FO RT

Happy Feet Propét introduces Rejuve, a biomechanical-based design that promotes natural movement and reduces lower body pain. POSSESSING 56 BONES, 66 joints, 214 ligaments, 38 muscles and six arches, feet do a considerable amount of work as part of their daily routine. Yet the same intricate architecture that makes our locomotors so dependable leaves them justifiably prone to injury when taking into account the daily wear and tear they endure. It can lead to stress and strain on the entire body without proper support and care. Enter Propét, which is getting to the root of the problem with Rejuve, a new line of biomechanically engineered sandals, debuting for Spring ’14,

designed and built in collaboration with renowned podiatric surgeon Dr. Harold Schoenhaus. “He’s been doing this for a long time—more than 40 years—and he is addressing the issues that he sees coming into his office,” says Jillian Avey, marketing manager for Propét. Rejuve’s patent-pending U-shaped design built into the sole is contoured to provide a stabilizing force that supports natural gait. Whereas orthotic-based shoes hold the foot in the right position when you’re standing and catch the arch as it falls, Avey says Rejuve Motion Technology cups the heel bone, aligning the foot so the arch is held in place. “That allows the foot to pronate naturally,” she says. Specifically, that prevents over-pronation which is associated with pain in the feet, heels, legs and lower back. Avey adds that exact fit is key for Rejuve to work and that’s why the collection is available in half sizes as well as two widths for men and three widths for women. Targeting the 40-plus market, as well as younger athletes, the line has been picked up by the likes of online leaders Zappos and Footsmart as well as key sit-and-fit independents such as Alan’s Shoe House in Tucson, AZ, and McCulloch’s Wide Shoes in Brea, CA. “It fits right along with some of the other brands that are popular in biomechanical footwear right now,” Avey notes. Moving into next fall, the line will expand to include shoes, slippers and insoles. “Retailers like the technology that Dr. Schoenhaus has developed and they understand the story,” Avey says. “The most important aspect being that it addresses that foot in motion, so it’s fitting a different niche than some of the other brands in this market.” Rejuve’s debut collection consists of three sandals for men and four for women. It wholesales for $69 to $99. —Lyndsay McGregor

Cool Runnings Khombu expands beyond its cold weather roots with B Kool Collection. KNOWN FOR ITS winter boots and après ski styles, Khombu is expanding its offering of watersport-friendly footwear for Spring ’14 with the B Kool Collection, a line of sporty hybrids built to grip wet surfaces and drain quickly that can double as everyday shoes. Sparked by the rising popularity of activities such as stand up paddle boarding and ocean kayaking, the Avon, MA-based brand believes there’s room in the market for a fashion-forward take on a water-resistant shoe. “We have a lot of function in our footwear, but this takes it up to the next notch,” says Rachel Colman, marketing coordinator. While most water sport shoes are for stomping around in the drink and little else, the B Kool Collection (SRP $59.99) is designed to be more versatile, which may span running through rocky creek beds to traversing rugged trails in search of killer waves to a peaceful picnic in the park. Not left out of the equation: to look stylish doing so. “We went all out focusing on bright colors, lightweight materials and comfort,” Colman says. Take the Payday model as an example. The athletic-inspired Mary Jane, featuring a lightweight woven gore upper, clocks in at just six ounces and comes in black, royal blue and gold colors. An EVA rubber outsole drains water quickly, while an antimicrobial treated footbed absorbs odor and wicks away moisture. A stretchy strap across the instep offers a secure fit. “There’s a lot of adjustability in a shoe that has a strap on it,” Colman says, adding that the easy on-off style suits outdoor enthusiasts to on-the-go moms. Macy’s, Zappos and Amazon have picked up the line, and Khombu hopes it will also find a niche in outdoor and surf specialty shops, as well as select sporting goods stores. Moving forward, Khombu plans to expand B Kool to include men’s and kids’ styles. “We also plan to transition this lightweight concept into Fall ’14,” Colman says. “You’ll see a lot of shoes with similar EVA bottoms that are extremely lightweight and flexible.” —L.M.

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

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continued from page 12 ates are on hand to guide through the choices, custom offering.” and swatches and shoe samples give shoppers Similarly, Allen Edmonds has been offering the opportunity to touch and see the real-life made-to-order shoes since the ’80s, but three product while they design their own. Not foryears ago it launched an online shoe configugetting the importance of social media, the kirator, accessible through all 45 of its company osks enable shoppers to share their designs on stores as well as through its retail partners. Facebook or Twitter directly from the screen. Customers can choose from nine styles and Walk-Over teamed up with Nordstrom.com in “We brought a point of difference to the table,” customize everything from the laces to the October to launch Build to Suit. offers Steve Gardner, general manager of insole, even adding the logo of their favorNew Balance Lifestyle. “It’s certainly given us another avenue to highlight ite baseball team to their wingtip if they so wish. “Our custom business our U.S.A.-made product and we’ve learned a lot about making it faster.” has only enhanced our main line business,” says CEO and President Paul He adds that the custom business has thus far surpassed expectations, and Grangaard. “We’ve learned a lot from our customers based on the custom plans are being discussed to carefully roll out more kiosks around the counorders they’re placing.” A key aspect to the company’s future success with try in the future. custom sales will be the reduction in time it takes to send out orders from While Walk-Over and New Balance chose to team up with select retail six to eight weeks to two to four. “This quicker turnaround is the result partners, the majority of brands’ custom offerings are direct-to-consumer of the added efficiency we’ll gain from a new production line in our Port (D2C), leaving most retailers out in the cold. “As an independent retailer we Washington, WI, factory that will be dedicated to producing custom shoes,” always look for that unique product. This applies another layer of competiGrangaard notes. The new production facility will also handle special ortion,” offers Isack Fadlon, co-founder of Sportie LA. Tarek Hassan, co-owner ders like exotic skins, welted golf cleats and small order fulfillment. “As of The Tannery in Boston, disagrees. “It’s not like every time a customer technology and processes allow, customers, including both wholesale and wants a shoe he’s going to order a custom pair. They might do it once or direct-to-consumer, appreciate more timely delivery,” continues Colin Hall, twice, but it’s not to the extent that it’s damaging or affecting our business chief marketing officer. in any way,” he says. Along those lines, New Balance currently owns the fastest turnaround Doug Palladini, vice president and general manager of the Americas for time, taking a mere six to eight days for its shoppers to receive their madeVans, insists its D2C custom program is about engaging consumers and not in-the-U.S.A. custom 574 and 993 models. The program launched online competition with its retail partners. “We don’t really view it as a top and botabout two years ago and, this fall, the company introduced custom kiosks tom line thing. It’s an experience that’s a rich part of our history,” he says, at its New Balance Experience Store and the Foot Locker flagship in New noting that the company has been letting its customers design their own York. Using a touch screen display, customers can choose between colors shoes since Founder Paul Van Doren opened the doors to his first factory and materials, right down to the stitching on the shoe’s heel. Store associand retail store in 1966 in Anaheim, CA. “People were asking for shoes in different colors and prints. He would say, ‘Great! Bring me a shirt or another piece of clothing like that and I’ll do it,’” Palladini says. “People would bring in their stuff in the morning and when they came back that evening their custom shoes were ready.” Moreover, Palladini argues that first-time Vans buyers aren’t necessarily going to jump into designing their own versions. “This appeals to someone who already has some history with the brand,” he says. “It builds their relationship with us and it’s a ‘thank you’ to people who already expressed a loyalty with our brand.” Earlier this year outdoor brand Keen unveiled a program online whereby customers can put their own spin on its Newport H2 sandal. “It really came out of our fan base and how passionate they are. We always got letters from people looking for different color combinations,” says Christa DePoe, vice president of global online and retail, noting that it’s been a popular addition to Keen’s business. “We’ve been getting requests for other shoes and we will offer a couple more sandal styles next year.” Each piece of the sandal can be ORLANDO, FLORIDA personalized, and with more than 80 colors to choose from (That amounts to more than 65 million possible color combinations!) customers are free to make a pig’s ear of it should they wish. Once designed, the sandals ship directly from Keen’s factory in China in about two to three weeks. Find more than 150 of the latest surf, Most industry members believe the expanding D2C custom category is far beach lifestyle & resort footwear brands from replacing the traditional retail shopping experience. And for any reat Surf Expo. tailers seeing it as unwanted competition, it’s not like private label programs haven’t been used for years either. One may argue D2C custom programs is a case of touché. Also, there’s the ever-present growing need for wholesalers and retailers to reach consumers beyond the traditional brick-and-mortar shopping experience. The personalized ability to shop 24-7 online lends itself to taking that personal flexibility a step further to customizing the prodREGISTER NOW! ucts purchased. “Shopping nowadays is a seamless process,” says Jerome of SURFEXPO.COM MonsieurJerome.com. “Whether you shop online or in stores you can basically get anything you want.” At least, that appears to be the growing expecA T R A D E O N LY E V E N T tation among an increasing number of consumers who want to have it their own unique way. •

JANUARY 9-11, 2014

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O&A continued from page 19 with the mindset of tacking on three percent growth per year in U.S. sales. I knew there was momentum behind the brand and if we could unleash its full power, sales will be up a multiple of what they were this year. We hope to almost double sales next year. What are your plans for the subsidiary brands? Birki’s and Papillio are going to continue on for the foreseeable future. Over the next year or two we’ll try to carve out a unique personality for them both so that they can live under the Birkenstock umbrella. Odds are it will be the same distribution channels but differentiated product. The easiest thing would have been to just focus on Birkenstock, but we are all new enough to the business and believe there’s some equity in those brands. We also will continue with our Betula brand in the moderate channel and are transitioning our Alpro work brand into Birkenstock Professional, beginning next fall. We have a tremendous following among chefs and healthcare workers. Just the fact that these brands are no longer competing with each other directly is first and foremost the most significant change. We had Papillio and Birkenstock reps going into the same accounts and selling against each other. Now our reps carry the entire collection and sell these brands as supporting roles. Is this a dream job for you? Yes. I’ve always been a brand guy and I think the ability to bring my back-

ground of retail, athletic and comfort with the unique experience of managing ENKWSA, there’s nobody else with the same experience. To be perfectly honest, I never would have moved my wife 3,000 miles to Novato, California, where we didn’t know a soul, unless I was empowered to do what I felt needed to be done for this brand to succeed. Once the owners gave that assurance and I saw this was the right team, I went into the job like the way Vikings would burn their ships upon arriving on a new shore: a case of win or die trying. During my first company meeting I introduced my wife to everyone and said I wouldn’t be commuting from Boston. My family and I made a commitment to live here. If I didn’t make that commitment I wouldn’t blame employees for thinking they’ve seen and heard this speech before. Thankfully, we have some really great people on our team who are incredibly passionate about this brand. But they were also some of the most frustrated people that I’d ever seen in my life. I think they just needed some leadership to say you are empowered now to do the right things for the brand. What do you love most about your job? Right now, it’s the people in our company. This is a group that has been incredibly dedicated but when the brand was losing market share it wasn’t much fun. Now it’s becoming a lot more fun knowing that we are heading in the right direction and sales are growing. I have never been more passionate about getting up and going to work in the morning. •

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LAST WORD

E N T R E P R E N E U R S H I P 101

Business Model The woman who Lady Gaga and Beyoncé go to for outrageous, empowering footwear is as intriguing and business savvy as her iconic clientele. By Angela Velasquez IF RUTHIE DAVIS can dream it, then she can do it. As the only shoe designer to be named one of Goldman Sachs 100 Most Intriguing Entrepreneurs of 2013, a roster that spanned Chad Dickerson of Etsy to Soulcycle’s Julie Rice and Elizabeth Cutler, it’s safe to say that Davis, a footwear couturier, marketer, sales person, financial analyst and enthusiast brought the most decorated product to the esteemed table. “I can create the rules,” Davis says of her no-holds-barred approach to the shoe business, adding, “My ideas are very authentic and true to the original idea because there is no middle man.” Regarding her Goldman Sachs recognition, Davis notes, “It’s a huge honor to be in the company of really amazing entrepreneurs, but what made it really special is that I love the word ‘intriguing.’” Capturing the attention of modern day heroines like Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, as well as the banking industry (which the ever savvy business woman points out is “really cool because, at the end of the day, it is business”) bodes well for Davis, who describes her designs as entrepreneurial. “I don’t just set out to make a pretty shoe. I think about the sale, how I will market that design, the total package,” she explains. Davis launched her label of high-end stilettos, sneakers and booties with a mission to create her own story and niche. “People assume that bigger means better business, and it’s the direction that every entrepreneur wants to go. I don’t. I’d rather stay intriguing and keep a very specific distribution,” she says. The luxury boutiques, websites and department stores spanning Dubai to Los Angeles that carry Davis’ collection are exactly where the designer wants to be, but to get there she had to tune out a lot of outsider opinions who argued the line should offer something for everyone. “The overnight success concept isn’t true. A lot of people think you just have to get your shoes on a celebrity and then you’re

on easy street, but there are a lot of ups and downs and you can’t get too excited or upset about either,” she says. Like a true entrepreneur, Davis is never satisfied. “I want everything I do to be special, otherwise it’s not worth doing,” she offers. In addition to launching a mobile-friendly e-commerce site in December, Davis is in the midst of planning her first Ruthie Davis boutique to open in New York in 2014. Sticking to the brand’s DNA, Davis says the store will be “cool, minimal, futuristic and unlike anything before.” All this while staying connected to her core Millennial customers through Twitter and Instagram, which Davis handles herself. “I love to talk to our girls. That’s very important to the brand,” she explains. “I want to keep that authenticity.” The footwear veteran makes running her seven-year-old boutique company sound like a joyride, but her illustrious career began at Reebok with stops at Ugg Australia and Tommy Hilfiger along the way. They were mega brands that revealed the many hidden facets that go into running a successful company. “It’s rare for someone to walk out of school and be a successful business owner,” Davis offers. “The knowledge and experience you gain working for other people are invaluable. Those experiences set me up for starting my own line, and seeing things that I did work gave me the confidence.” It’s sage advice that she passes on to MBA students (the day before this interview she spoke at MIT), along with the reminder that working for an entrepreneurial company can be equally rewarding as having your own name on the label. Davis, who always tries to hire people who can do a better job than her, says she acts more like a cheerleader and coach, rather than keeping a hierarchy amongst her staff. “I’m not truly doing this on my own,” she says. “All of the people on my team are entrepreneurs.”

From top: An intriguing Spring ‘14 style; entrepreneur Ruthie Davis; the “Fashion Capitol” platform; Lady Gaga hitting the pavement in plexiglas heels by Davis.

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2013

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