S U RV I VA L O F T H E F I T T E R S : L A R RY PA PA R O O N T H E K I D S’ S H O E B I Z
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JULY 2015 FEATURES 16 Dawn of the Dinosaurs A kid-friendly spin on popular prehistoric reptiles roars into toys and décor.
18 Straight from the Source Longtime shoe industry pro and LJP CEO Larry Paparo shares his candid assessment of the kids’ footwear market.
Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor Kirby Stirland Associate Editor
22 All the Trimmings
Laurie Cone Associate Editor
Retail experts reveal their top tips for a holly, jolly holiday shopping season.
ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher
FASHION 24 The Young Americans
Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
Comfy, casual dresswear offers a fresh take on timeless style.
PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager
4 Editor’s Note
Mike Hoff Webmaster
6 Talking Points 8 Hot Properties 10 Fresh Finds 12 On Trend 34 Behind the Seams 40 Shop Talk Andy & Evan vest, trousers and button-down. On cover: E-Land Kids turtleneck worn under Egg by Susan Lazar plaid dress. Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Styling by Alejandro Garcia. Hair and makeup by Tara Campbell.
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Noelle Heffernan Publisher
CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office Debbie Grim 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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editor’s note With social-mediasavvy Millennials shaping the fashion narrative, marketing is more important than ever.
ALMOST A DECADE ago, my husband and I—then doe-eyed college grads—decided to try our hand at swing dance lessons. To say it went poorly is an understatement. We paid for seven classes but quit after the first two. But, but, but, that Gap khaki commercial made it look so easy! Remember the one? Set to “Jump, Jive an’ Wail,” it featured a brigade of khaki-wearing swing dancers performing acrobatic moves with ease. The ad debuted in 1998, the same year that the Brian Setzer Orchestra released a hit cover of the classic tune, kicking off a decade of ill-fated swing dancing lessons across the country. I started thinking of that quintessentially-cool commercial in the wake of Gap’s announcement that it will close 175 stores across North America, following an entire year of monthly same-store sales losses. It didn’t take long for an army of reporters and bloggers to offer their assessment of where Gap went wrong: Retail analysts chalked it up to the decline of mall-based shopping (something we covered here in Earnshaw’s last month), as well as the surging low-price and fast fashion segments. (There’s probably something to this theory: After all, Old Navy, which is owned by Gap Inc., is thriving.) The New York Times attributed the losses to “management blunders, a revolving door of executives and, by its own executives’ admission, uninspiring fashion.” But the main culprit, by and large, seemed to be the latter. Here are just a few descriptions of Gap’s style stumbles, according to bloggers: “baggy cuts,” “bland colors” and “an overload of chambray.” Those bloggers should take another look at that 1998 commercial. The dancers were wearing khaki, for goodness sake—the uniform of soccer moms and middle-management executives everywhere—and it wasn’t just cool, it was iconic. Not to mention, those simple chinos were paired with olive tanks and black T-shirts. The Gap has always thrived by making unremarkable fashion remarkable, from denim jeans to basic tees. In other words, it was normcore before normcore.
Bridging the Gap Stills from a 1998 Gap ad.
I can’t take credit for that idea: Gap itself tried to express the sentiment last year by launching a couple of new ad campaigns encouraging its customers to “Dress Normal.” They even recruited two of the most lauded film directors of the past decade, David Fincher and Sofia Coppola, to direct commercials. Tastemakers at Vanity Fair and Ad Age approved—but did anyone actually see those commercials? I polled our entire office, and no one could recall watching a single one. In fact, no one could remember seeing a Gap commercial in years, a sad statement for a company that was once known for its fun, festive, celeb-studded spots. By scaling back its marketing efforts, Gap let a new generation of shoppers drive the narrative for its brand. Its beloved basics became “baggy” and “boring” instead of necessary and essential. It’s a cautionary tale for brands and retailers everywhere: When times are tough, it’s easy to think that marketing and advertising efforts are expendable. But if you aren’t telling the story of your brand, then who is? The answer: No one, or even worse, a horde of aspiring social media stars, seeking as many re-tweets as possible for their dubiously incisive wit. With all of the money brands put into buying, merchandising, accounting and hiring— the bricks of brick-and-mortar retail—it’s unfortunate when they don’t make the equally necessary investment in brand identity. If you build it, they may come. Or they may not. We all know that consumers have more options than ever when it comes to spending their hard-earned dollars. But if you can convince shoppers they want to come by, that they actually need to come by, then you’ve already won half the battle for retail supremacy. And if you can convince them to take swing dance lessons, you’ve won the war.
AUDREY GOODSON KINGO
audrey.kingo@9threads.com
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Talking
Points Weathering the Storm
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Severe cold and record-breaking snowfall can pose challenges and present opportunities for retailers—provided they’re prepared.
OSTON IS THE one ager of Elephant Ears in Ann Arbor, MI, that took it on the notes the rough winter presented “the chin this year.” That’s perfect opportunity to service our cusMarshal Cohen, NPD tomers through online ordering and free Group’s chief induslocal delivery.” Berman-Rossi says she’s try analyst, on how since made strengthening Tiny Hanger’s Beantown fared in the online presence a priority. Although her wake of this year’s snowbound winter. robust Twitter, Facebook and Instagram The city was hit with a record-breaking activity has not necessarily generated 108.6 inches of snow last winter, accordweb sales thus far, it helps “just to keep ing to the National Weather Service. us in people’s minds and to build that When the city finally shoveled out, community and connection,” she says. retailers like Lucia Berman-Rossi, owner (Additionally, Berman-Rossi used social of Tiny Hanger children’s boutique in media to alert customers to weatherSnow kept many shoppers off the roads across the Northeast. Brookline and Wellesley, MA, were left related closings last year.) reeling from lost sales. Not only were Major chains like Walmart don’t take fewer people coming into Berman-Rossi’s stores, but she was forced to chances with nature. Instead, they bring in firms like Planalytics, a busicompletely close both locations for five days and had several early clos- ness weather intelligence service, to help strategize. Its experts track ings. For Suzy O’Brien, owner of The Red Wagon in Boston, sales were changes in weather-driven demand for various categories of goods down 40 percent over a six-week period due to the winter weather. “I’m compared to prior years. Data like this can certainly be helpful to buysure I will still be feeling the effects of last winter into the fall,” she muses. ers when plotting their assortments for future seasons, but even so, Weather is notoriously unpredictable—even the weatherman doesn’t experts warn against making decisions based on the whims of Mother get it right half the time. So how can retailers brave the elements? For Nature. “Year over year, weather repeats itself about 20 percent of the starters, break with tradition: Adjusting the merchandising calendar is time, which means that about 80 percent of the time, weather will revert the number one thing retailers must do, according to Cohen. Typically, back to normal,” explains Maria Maldonado, manager of client services retailers have focused on selling ahead of the seasons, but the paradigm— at Planalytics. “We advise all of our clients to use ‘normal’ to plan for which results in the discord of selling swimwear in January and cordu- the next season,” she says, noting that retailers are likely to end up overroys in August—is outdated. Consumers simply don’t shop that way. purchasing inventory if they buy based on statistically unusual weather. Cohen offers this common dilemma: When you lose a glove in February, That said, it’s wise to heed lessons learned during previous seasons. where do you go to get a new pair? Answer: online, since most stores After his experience with the Polar Vortex of 2014, Smothers at Elephant stop restocking outerwear after Christmas. It’s a missed opportunity for Ears doubled his orders of mittens this past winter, and it turned out brick-and-mortar retailers. Instead, he advises, replenish shelves with to be a good call—they still sold out. “We stocked up on items that we a small number of strong items that carry over into the rest of the sea- ran out of early the year before and listened to our customers for what son so they’re available when the consumer actually needs and wants brands they were looking for,” he says, citing Patagonia, 7A.M. Enfant them. “Retailers and brands must work together at figuring out how and Melton as examples. to give the consumer what they want when they want it,” he declares. In some ways, specialty retailers have a built-in advantage when it And while bad weather may propel people to shop online, you can’t comes to severe weather. O’Brien points out that her business’ small rely on e-commerce to buck up sales when inclement weather cuts into size means she can react quickly to market conditions if she needs to your foot traffic, Cohen says, since online shopping is far less impulsive change up her merchandise mix. Also, by nurturing relationships with than brick-and-mortar. When people shop online, they’re not buying trusted vendors, she “was able to cut back and spread out deliveries and three items, they’re only buying one. Still, a strong online presence can payments,” O’Brien recalls. “It really makes a difference to do business help re-capture at least a few lost purchases. Michael Smothers, man- with such great people.” —Kirby Stirland
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HOT PROPERTIES
Ready, Rudolph?
Everyone’s favorite red-nosed reindeer revs up holiday collections. MORE THAN 50 years on, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer remains a perennial holiday favorite. Expect to see more Rudolph-themed children’s merchandise under the Christmas tree this year, with new collections on the way from Kids Preferred, Rashti & Rashti and more. “Rudolph really does appeal to kids—and parents—of all ages,” says Meridith Flom, brand manager of Character Arts, which owns the Rudolph the RedNosed Reindeer license. “We try to stay fresh and relevant by continuing to offer new artwork and stylized interpretations, and keeping up with trends.” Kids Preferred will follow last year’s collection with a refreshed line of plush toys and gifts for little ones featuring Rudolph and his trusty sidekick, Clarice. The Holiday ’15 line includes musical plushes that play “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer,” a lift-the-tab storybook, noisemaking Rain Stick Rattles, miniature jingling plushes and activity bibs with dangling pacifiers and teething rings. Most products are suitable for all ages. Launching in September, the toys will wholesale for $4 to $12.50. Email
orders@kidspreferred.com or call (866) 763-8869 for more information. Rashti & Rashti will offer a refreshed line of Rudolph-themed newborn apparel and accessories, including layette and playwear pieces featuring festive metallic trims and appliqués for boys and girls up to 12 months. There will also be a holiday sleepwear collection for infants, toddlers, boys and girls. Both Rudolph lines will wholesale for $14 and under, and will be available to ship in August/September. Email contactus@rashtiandrashti.com to learn more. Additionally, look out for winter outerwear and accessories from Accessory Innovations, costumes from Chasing Fireflies, light-up apparel from M. Hidary & Co., slippers from Dan Dee and pajamas and bedding from Pottery Barn Kids. —Kirby Stirland
Puff Piece
Evy of California and Sean Jean tackle the athleisure trend. THE REAL SEAN Jean—Sean Jean Combs, a.k.a. Puff Daddy, P. Diddy or Diddy, depending on the era—is no stranger to reinvention. And now, his eponymous clothing line, which came on the
scene in 1998, is expanding to include kids. Evy of California will produce a line of Sean Jean children’s sportswear for Spring ’16. Dubbed Sport Luxe, the casual yet sophisticated collection will include apparel for boys (sizes 8–20) and girls (sizes 4–6x and 7–14), paying tribute to the 2016 Summer Olympics with on-trend athletic details like nylon, mesh and embossed tricot. “We are diving back into the core for the Sean Jean brand to reinvent active-inspired looks by mixing classic silhouettes with streetwear items,” explains Jeffrey Fisher, VP of licensing and strategic marketing at Evy of California. The line is aimed at department stores on the order of Macy’s and Dillard’s and will wholesale for $6 to $25. Contact Brian McNamara at brianm@evy. com for more information. —K.S.
Here Kitty, Kitty Say “hello” to a new line of toys featuring Sanrio’s famous feline.
AS ONE OF the world’s most recognizable and beloved characters, Hello Kitty has certainly outlasted her requisite nine lives. Next, she’s set to appear on a new line of developmental and educational infant and children’s toys from licensee Kid O. Launching in early 2016, the collection will include design-conscious toys that render Hello Kitty and Friends characters in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors to engage and inspire little ones and encourage creative fun. Kid O’s line will be available at specialty retailers and will wholesale for $3 to $20. Contact Hailey Simmons at hailey@ kidotoys.com for more details. Additionally, visitors to Universal Parks & Resorts in Orlando and Hollywood will soon be able to explore the world of Sanrio, including Hello Kitty, Chococat, Keropppi and Badtz-Maru, thanks to a new deal that includes interactive retail shops at both locations. —K.S.
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RuffleButts Ruggedbutts
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RESH FINDS
Planting a Seed
Oaks of Acorn, signifying mother of child, is a New York City and Hong Kong-based brand started by students-turned-mothers, turned-entrepreneurs. For Fall ‘15, founders and designers Winnie Li and Dilys Poon were inspired by a beach in winter. Think wave-like designs, blue color-blocking and abstract landscape prints. Details include ruffles, bows, buttons and animal ears on hats. Colors range from muted, as if bleached by the sun, to inky. The line (for girls only, 2 to 10 years) debuted at Playtime New York last summer and encompasses sweaters, sweatshirts, dresses, shorts, skirts, pants, tops, jackets, backpacks and hats. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $60, and an infant collection will debut in Spring ’16. Visit www.oaksofacorn.com.
The latest looks for globetrotting tots.
For Those Who Wander
Self-described “global nomad” and former New York City architect Shweyta Mudgal debuted Eight Thousand Miles at Playtime New York in February 2015. The brand’s name is a clever nod to the earth’s diameter and the distance between two cities: New York City (where Mudgal calls home) and Mumbai (where the line is handmade). Thanks to its whimsical prints paired with bold colors, the fabric is the focus of the line, which includes rompers, tops, bloomers and dresses for girls and shirts for boys, ages newborn up to 8 years. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $60. Visit www.eightthousandmiles.com.
Knitting Circle
How does Blue Ullu designer Elise Gonzales-Sahota describe her brand? “We are a deliciously ultra-luxe children’s knitwear line brought to you from women artisans in the Indian Himalayas.” Gonzales-Sahota moved to India at the tender age of 18 and was immediately entranced by its colors and textiles. Years later, when her daughter was born, she knew she wanted to start her own childrenswear line and work with the country’s knitters. She debuted her collection of sweaters, peacoats, hats, scarves, dresses and overalls for boys and girls ages 0 to 3 months up to 4T at Playtime New York in March. Classic lines blend with bold hues and intricate patterns on angora/merino wool, organic cotton and silk, but traditional Indian fabric and lightweight crocheted pieces are in the works for Spring ’16. Wholesale prices range from $20 to $52. Visit www. blueullu.com.
A Leg Up
Textile designer Erie Chang, former founder and creative director of swimwear line Floatimini, has launched a new collection of colorfully bold spandex leggings. Proudly made in the U.S.A., Che Rie is available for girls, sizes 4 to 16, and women, sizes XS to L. The brand’s edgy designs are pop-art inspired, ranging from fun food prints—hamburgers, doughnuts and jellybeans—to street graffiti and dollar bills. With new prints arriving monthly, the leggings retail for $48 and aim to promote comfortable style, movement and self-expression. To see the line (and a myriad of bright patterns), check out www.cherieny.com.
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Dream Sequence
After moving to New York from Buenos Aires, designer Alicia Rodriguez spent a decade working in women’s apparel design before launching an e-commerce concept store. But after welcoming a baby girl, she realized her true calling and Luisa et la Luna was born. The debut Spring ’15 collection is inspired by a movie and a song: Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs wrote “The Moon Song,” a tune with dreamlike lyrics, for Spike Jonze’s futuristic Her—and Rodriguez was instantly captured. Fittingly, the line features diffused colors (mostly pinks and creams), simple silhouettes (blousy dresses and matching bloomer sets) and understated prints. The collection for girls ages 2 to 10 includes pants, tops, dresses, quilted jackets, knitwear, hats, scarves, necklaces, bags and feather headbands. Wholesale prices range from $27 to $112. Visit www.luisaetlaluna.com.
Bright Idea
Former celebrity stylist Jillian Atun couldn’t find sophisticated and consciously-made products for her daughter, so she made her own: a soft-soled moccasin for both boys and girls. Dubbed Neon Rae, the shoes are made in California and come in an array of fabrics and patterns—from perforated leather to raw denim—perfect for newborns and toddlers. The brand, which debuted at Playtime New York last year, also offers beanies sporting phrases like “Bossy” and bucket hats in a range of prints. Wholesale prices are $8 to $36 and Atun strives to use up-cycled fabrics, producing as little waste as possible. Visit www. neonrae.com.
Problem Solver
Good Taste
Salt Lake City may not be the first place you envision when it comes to whimsical, comfortable children’s clothing, but it will be if Salt City Emporium has anything to say about it. With an array of unique prints—lollipops, bikes and lions, oh my!—splashed across a range of on-trend silhouettes, from high-waisted rompers to tutus, the American-made brand offers everything from hoodies, tees, tanks and leggings to blankets and pillows for boys and girls ages 0 to 7. Pillow kits available in bunny, lion or owl designs come with fabric markers for parent-approved customization. Wholesale prices range from $9 to $37. Visit www.saltcityemporium.com.
Otium Brands, founded by Nancy Ciara, was inspired by an age-old dilemma: missing socks. When Ciara became a mom, she quickly realized the challenges of keeping little feet covered. So in February she introduced the brand’s first product, Cozee Toes, legwarmers with attached socks. The concept quickly expanded to Cozee Pants, denim with attached footies; Cozee Hoods, hoods that attach to baby carriers, and silicone teething pads. All of the pieces, for boys and girls from 0 to 3 years, are available in bright colors and playful patterns—think dinosaurs, stars, owls and leopardprint—and wholesale for $7.50 to $17.50. Visit www. otiumbrands.com. 2 0 1 5 J U LY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 1 1
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OnTrend
Dagmar Daley dress
Kira Kids skirted bodysuit
Je suis en Cp! knit tights
MarMar Copenhagen bonnet Little Me quilted sweatshirt and headband
Vierra Rose tutu
Children’s Il Gufo Fashion from Spain
Anthem of the Ants corduroy pants
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Millions of Colors coat
Salt City Emporium bodysuit
Nobodinoz skirt
Love Made Love dress
Powdery pastels have been infiltrating designers’ fall collections for the past two seasons, and though this may come as old news to the children’s industry—where brands and retailers alike understand the value of pink and blue—this season the soft palette is growing up and granting winter staples, such as overcoats and holiday dresses, a bright new life. From periwinkle and buttercup to carnation pink and muted lilac, pastels serve as the perfect antidote to dark, winter wardrobe woes. While hand-drawn doodles keep looks cool and contemporary, rich textures, such as corduroy and tweed, prevent the tone from looking too saccharine. No matter the shade, these pale hues are sure to lighten little ones’ moods. —Tara Anne Dalbow
Pastel Perfect
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OnTrend Nununu blanket
Maple Landmark conversation sticks
Biscotti dress
Mini Maniacs bib
Herschel Supply Co. backpack
Ultra Violet Kids turban
Craftholic plush toy
Omamimini dress
Baby Jar bib
Munster Kids T-shirt
Tinycottons hat
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Lulujo muslin blanket
Tea Collection cardigan
Uglydoll plush toys
Winter Water Factory baby gown
Quite Contraire dress
High Contrast What’s black and white and wonderful all over? Old movies, those famous New York City cookies and now, fall’s hippest clothes and accessories for kids. Covering everything from outerwear to gifts, bold black and white prints elevate children’s offerings with clean lines and graphic shapes. Inspired by the mod black-and-white designs at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg and Saint Laurent during the Spring ’14 runway shows, the stark colors lend comfy dresses a sporty edge and give hats a playful pop. Look to jailbird stripes, geometric shapes and quirky patterns to keep color envy at bay. —T.A.D.
Fun & Fun
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On the Shelf
Dawn of the Dinosaurs
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Dinosaurs will walk the earth once again this fall, or at least the children’s section of your favorite store. Look for these prehistoric reptiles to appear in books, games and in the form of plush toys and baby accessories. Riding on the Tyrannosaurus-size tail of the Jurassic World film, which hit theaters last month, kids will go nuts for all things dino— and so will parents, notes John Kell, senior reporter for Fortune magazine. “Nostalgia for old brands is a major reason that licensed properties can be hot sellers in the toy aisle today.” He explains, “Let’s say you were 14 when the original film was released in 1993. Today, you would be 36 years old—old enough to have children, and you might want to buy the toys for your kids to play with based on your love for the first few films.” But don’t worry, these dinos aren’t nearly as scary as the ones you remember. Look for bright colors, toothless smiles and, in some cases, funky socks to help make these Mesozoic-era critters nursery-room-ready. —Tara Anne Dalbow
1. Manny and Simon wood roller toy 2. and 9. The Land of Nod coin bank and dinosaur shelf 3. Fiona Walker England dinosaur head wall décor 4. and 5. Haba sand glove and chocolate lollipop mold 6. and 14. Seedling dinosaur action figure and fossil jar 7. Mud Pie dinosaur sock plush 8. Little Sapling Toys wood teether 10. Plan Toys dino cars 11. Nawi Kids plush toy 12. Noodoll wall hook 13. Eeboo panoramic puzzle.
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children’s world
Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products
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Come play in Children’s World, where you’ll find all the
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Q& A
Straight from the Source Sourcing expert Larry Paparo, president and CEO of LJP International, licensee for Nine West Kids and BareTraps Kids, reveals how the company’s recipe of experience, common sense and old-fashioned hard work is driving growth.
LARRY PAPARO IS a shoe industry lifer. In fact, per his wife’s assessment, the only two things he really knows how to do are take out the garbage and make shoes. Luckily for the Paparo family, the latter is a skill and a career that he excels at, which began back in high school when he was a part-time stock boy at Lester’s in his hometown of Brooklyn, NY. It’s a career trajectory that originated out of happenstance after Paparo’s mother took it upon herself to offer her son’s services to an overwhelmed storeowner who needed a helping hand. Little did anyone know that would lead to a career spanning 30-plus years in retail and wholesale, working in all facets, for such industry heavyweights as Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden and Nine West before Paparo fulfilled a lifelong dream with the launch of his own sourcing company in 2006. Paparo prides himself on having achieved it all through hard work and seizing every opportunity. There were no preordained rites of passage or inside connections. “I don’t come from a
family of shoes or money,” he says. “I started from the bottom and worked my way all the way up.” That’s exactly what Paparo did—fast. How many teenagers, in just two years, go from stocking shelves at $3.35 an hour to managing a store and doing the buying? Paparo did. And over the next five years he would open more Lester’s locations and grow the business into an iconic local apparel chain known for its shoe departments. From there, Paparo always kept striving for more. “Steve Madden used to sell me L.J. Simone shoes when I was the buyer at Lester’s,” he recalls. “I would watch all these great salesmen come in and I thought to myself, ‘I want to be that guy.’ And then I saw that the salesmen had a manager, and I wanted to be that guy. And he answered to a president…So I just kept going and going.” Paparo’s crossover into wholesale and first foray into the world of children’s footwear began as a sales rep for the Elefanten kids’ brand. (He still has a memento
BY GREG DUTTER
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from those days, a pair of Elefanten shoes, sitting on his desk.) After five years of helping put that brand on the map, Kenneth Cole hired him in 1995 to launch its kids’ division. While Paparo was there, the company was the first to introduce takedowns of adult dress and casual styles. “Even when Kenneth [Cole] first approached me with the idea, I didn’t believe it would work,” Paparo recalls. “But we figured out how to do it and it became a big success.” That experience is also where Paparo earned his master’s degree in shoes and where he “learned how to run a company.” Kenneth Cole was primarily focused on men’s and women’s lines, so Paparo had to be the production manager, the designer, the salesman, the order taker and the marketer for its kids’ division. Next came a brief stint at E.S. Originals to launch Rockport Kids, followed by stops at Nine West and Steve Madden. Then Paparo decided he was ready to be his own boss. “I had worked for and had hired lots of people at all of those terrific companies,” he says. “I knew what their needs were from a sourcing perspective.” Paparo saw room for improvement. “I saw companies going directly to factories and working with agents who had no understanding of their business or brand,” he says. “Too often they didn’t know what they were making or what the price needed to be.” Paparo knew these brands and their needs and, due to his frequent sourcing trips to China, he had also forged solid relationships—one of which became his silent partner at LJP. LJP jumped out of the blocks as orders poured in immediately. The company was humming along, brand sourcing and making private label, but then the financial crisis struck. “It was like the end of the world,” Paparo says. “The faucet just shut off. I was worried about whether I could even find another job if it came to that.” But he vowed to not give in easily. “I told everyone they would have to drag my dead body out of here,” he says. Paparo put his head down and worked harder than ever. He traveled to China 12 times during the year after the crisis and reached out for business anywhere he could find it. LJP’s client list at the time included Rocawear, Sam Edelman, Steve Madden and Nine West. “I was calling on everybody,” he says, noting the company scaled down from 12 employees to three. “I was buying, sourcing, designing, developing all on my own. We just bore down and learned
to live within our means.” LJP started to turn the corner in 2009 and was rewarded for its successful track record of sourcing women’s and kids’ product for Nine West by being offered the company’s kids’ license. LJP added the Robert Graham
UP CLOSE WITH
L A R R Y PA PA R O
What are you reading? A biography of Winston Churchill. I’ve always admired his leadership skills. What famous person in history do you most admire? Ronald Reagan. Employment was high during his terms, wars were at a minimum, the country prospered, the Soviet Union dissolved—lots of great things happened under his leadership. What is your motto? “Without quality there is no future.” Who would be your most coveted dinner guest? Winston Churchill. He was extremely dynamic and fought alone at first, which touches me because I started LJP with just one partner. I tell every person who joins our team that failure is not an option and we will win together. If God put you in charge, what would be your first decree? If this was a Miss America pageant it’d be to cure cancer, which would be on my list, but I would also add more time to the day. What is your favorite hometown memory? I was born and raised in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, in New York City, and my favorite memory is playing stickball in the schoolyard and on the street where the bases stretched from sewer to sewer. Also, hanging out at L&B Spumoni Gardens, where they make a square pizza that is like no other. My father went with his father and my father took me. The place brings back great memories.
men’s footwear license soon after and followed that up last year with the addition of the Mootsies Tootsies women’s license. (LJP will re-launch a kids’ line for the brand in Fall ’16.) The company also recently finalized a deal with International Brand Partners, makers of
Ccilu, to distribute men’s, women’s and kids’ styles for the hybrid athletic fashion brand in the United States. In March, LJP became the American partner for Bruno Magli and will be designing, developing and producing shoes worldwide for the Italian luxury brand. And in April, the company inked a deal to oversee the design, production and sales of a new girls’ collection for BareTraps, owned by St. Louis-based Footwear Unlimited. That takes us to the present. This fall’s debut of Robert Graham was a hit at retail and Paparo is confident that Mootsies Tootsies and Ccilu will make strong debuts this year. Sales of Nine West Kids are on fire—the brand is on track for its best year to date—while BareTraps Kids was a big hit with retailers at the June footwear shows. Add to that a new two-story showroom in the popular building at 1370 Avenue of the Americas in New York City, and it’s clearly been a busy year so far. Did any of that good fortune have to do with an improved economy? His answer is Brooklyn blunt: “Hell no.” While Paparo wishes things were that easy, he attributes LJP’s success to hard work and a solid foundation. “We gained the confidence of our licenses and retailers by being a dependable sourcing partner,” he says. “While other companies were faltering by shipping poor quality as prices rose and they didn’t have a recipe to address those issues, we stayed true to our brands’ needs and we came out of it stronger.” Paparo is now living his dream. LJP has ramped up to 25 employees (and counting) at its Edison, NJ, headquarters and its China office boasts more than 200 employees. “I’m doing exactly what I want to be doing at this point in my life,” he says. “I’m surrounded by a team of people who have joined me for the long haul, and they’ve proved it by leaving jobs that, in some cases, were bigger. I’ll never forget it.” First, the latest: How did the deal with BareTraps come about and how has the new kids’ collection fared so far? We’ve been watching the brand for a while and speaking with Pat Mooney [the president of Footwear Unlimited], and we developed a really nice relationship with them. We announced the partnership a couple months ago, and at the June FFaNY show, we debuted the first collection of BareTraps Kids. It was 2 0 1 5 J U LY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 1 9
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Q& A extremely well received. We were told by all of the retailers it offers something different, that the line is very casual, but playful at the same time. If you look at the adult line, it’s so comfort-driven and has a lot of natural feeling and emotion to it, so for kids that’s obviously great DNA and a recipe for success. For the kids’ piece, we took down a lot of their hot styles and expanded upon the collection with other more child-friendly styles using the materials and the pedigree of the brand to make a really cool, compelling collection. And you clearly understand what makes each brand unique. Is that why LJP stands out from other sourcing and licensing companies? Often, other selling groups go to agents or to factories direct to get samples made. So they might get their dress shoes made with this agent and their casual shoes and sneakers made with two other agents and then hope it all comes together. However, this frequently leads to product inconsistencies. To me, that doesn’t equal brand. Consistency is what equals brand. We understand the needs of the brand, specifically the brand equity and how important it is to respect that integrity. We always put the brand first and approach each partnership with a longterm vision and not “what can I get out of it during this one term.” A lot of companies put a brand name on their wall for the sexiness of it and think maybe it’ll get so-and-so to buy their private label shoes. That’s ridiculous. We always want to increase the brand’s value and integrity to improve its future, which helps ensure our future.
So that’s what makes LJP an attractive partner to blockbuster brands like Nine West. That, and I’m open with our brand partners in all aspects of the business. Good, bad or indifferent, I tell them like it is and how I feel. They might tell me that they want to do this or that, and I’ll say why that might not be a good idea and here’s a way it could work better. You’ve got to be honest and you’ve got to have mutual trust in these relationships. Trust and integrity are not commodities. We both take a leap of faith, which I don’t take lightly because they are entrusting me with their brand. Nine West, for example, is part of a $4 billion entity. For them to trust us with their kids’ license is a big deal that we respect. Why might your expertise in making kids’ footwear specifically be at the core of the company’s overall success? Because there’s so much involved in order to make legitimate kids’ shoes. The counter, fit, materials—everything has to be just so. We also have so many more regulations to adhere to with chemicals and materials. The standards for kids’ is more stringent than women’s and men’s put together. If you can be successful in kids’, then you can do anything in footwear. Your Nine West Kids business is having its best year to date. Why is that? We have secured space with our retail partners by offering great
The UK’s favorite maternity & children’s boutique
Our famous maternity collection available to view online
Winner of Best International Brand 2014
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product that has brought them incremental business. We have also guided them with product intel from women’s that hit trends at the precise time. It helps to have direct access to what’s selling in Nine West women’s, which enables us to react quickly. Often kids’ buyers are not savvy to what’s happening in the women’s market. So we encourage them to test what we know is trending, and many have gotten good returns as a result. How do you incorporate those trends and still make it kid-friendly? It’s a takedown approach, but you can’t take down everything. So we take the DNA of each brand and build age-appropriate sophistication. Along those lines, each of our brands has a reason for being that’s unique. Otherwise, we’re just splitting hairs. With our kids’ collections, it’s age-appropriate styling that fits and provides quality at the value mothers seek. We want that purchase for both the mother and daughter to be memorable. The Nine West “Mommy & Me” ad campaign, for example, is very emotional and memorable. Today, children are much more educated and want what they want. So it’s important for the mother to trust the brand and feel confident that her kids will be comfortable. A wise man [Kenneth Cole] once told me years ago: “If you pay $1 for a shoe and didn’t wear it, then you paid $1 too much.” I live by that rule. I look at every shoe we make and ask myself: Is the consumer getting value? Will it be more than what she bargained for? The answers must always be yes. Do you have any more kids’ lines planned for the near future? We have the ability to do kids for Bruno Magli and Robert Graham one day. We may do a capsule collection. Everything that we touch, I’d like to have a kids piece in it, because you want to get that consumer when they’re young. Not to mention, the Mommy & Me and Daddy & Me trend is huge. What is your general take on the footwear market right now? I think the market is finding its way. There was a correction with brands and stores that couldn’t find their way and now many of them are gone. The surviving retailers have learned who their partners are—those who can ship quality product on time, which a lot of companies can’t do. The leash has gotten much shorter, on both sides of the equation. There is no leash, and you can’t expect one. For example, even if you could get product made this past year, a lot of it sat for weeks in the California ports because of a strike. I took a trip there in January to look around and decided I wasn’t going to wait for it to all get resolved, because it probably wasn’t going to happen anytime soon. So we shifted our deliveries to New York. Other companies used that as an excuse for why their shoes were late. But that didn’t have to be the case. It’s a little more money and a little longer lead time, but we will ship to our retailers on time. That’s why I always say there are no problems, only solutions. We’re not too big or small where we can’t move and shake and make a change to adapt.
limeapple www.limeapple.com
Speaking of rumored problems, what is your take on the sourcing situation in China? Blah, blah, blah…Whine, whine, whine. Honestly, everyone >36 2 0 1 5 J U LY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 2 1
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All the Trimmings Children’s retailers— a.k.a. Santa’s real elves—reveal how to make the most of the 2015 holiday shopping season. BY KIRBY STIRLAND
Mud Pie
THE WEATHER OUTSIDE may not be frightful just yet, but most retailers already have holiday shopping on the brain. While a sluggish economy put a damper on seasons past, American consumers were certainly feeling the Christmas cheer last year, spending a total of $616.1 billion during the 2014 winter holiday shopping season. In fact, last year’s retail sales were at their highest since 2011. Though it’s too early for certainty, experts say a confluence of lower gas prices and stronger consumer confidence should make for a similarly strong 2015 holiday season. And Aerin Nicole, CEO of Kickee Pants (known and loved for, among other things, their seasonal jammies), thinks the recession may in fact have invigorated holiday shopping habits. “It has encouraged the celebration of holidays and time spent together,” she says. “Having apparel that invites families to celebrate together is appealing to customers.” As every savvy retailer knows, there’s no shortage of demand for special occasion and seasonal outfits this time of year; ’tis the season for family portraits, school concerts and holiday parties. But gift-buyers are also on the hunt for stocking-stuffer-sized accessories, toys and more. By setting a festive scene that evokes warm holiday feelings, perfecting the art of customer service amidst one of the most frantic times of the year and getting the timing just right, children’s retailers can ensure their offerings make it into Santa’s sleigh. Before you make your list and check it twice, read on for advice from industry experts and retailers alike on how to guarantee a holly, jolly holiday shopping season. START EARLY (BUT NOT TOO EARLY) Say what you will about the so-called “Christmas creep”—breaking out your winter wares early is a smart move. Pam Goodfellow, consumer
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insights director at Prosper Insights & Analytics (which conducts research for the National Retail Federation), notes that 40 percent of consumers start shopping for Christmas in October or before. In fact, “bringing out the Christmas tree and starting the carols the day after Halloween almost seems kind of late,” she says. Consumers who start shopping early are trying to spread out their budgets and get a head start hunting down the most in-demand gifts, so be ready by mid-fall to take advantage. Across the country, families don their gay apparel for portraits to send with their holiday cards—so they need their red and green duds ASAP. That’s why Miki Brugge, owner of Cotton Tails in Memphis, TN, says bringing in the holiday goods early is essential for her store. She aims to have her popular holiday pajamas on display by late August and everything else shortly thereafter. “Some people think I’m crazy, but if I can get the majority of my Christmas stock by the end of September or beginning of October, I think that’s best.” Actually, she’s in good company: At Bright Beginnings in Austin, TX, infant holiday apparel debuts as early as October 1, according to co-owner Sally Whitehouse, who says parents like to snag their “baby’s first Christmas” outfits early and hold on to them for family photo time. Though Evelina Rogers, owner of Pink Lemon Blue Lime in Darien, CT, is wary of going full-on Christmas too soon, last year she got a lot of inquiries about her holiday PJs from customers as early as August. This year, she may try making them available online in August or September before they hit the sales floor in late October. “I don’t want to miss the boat on that customer,” she adds. For gift and apparel manufacturer Mud Pie, May and June is the “sweet spot” for retailers’ holiday orders, according to Marcia Miller, company founder and CEO. Although some storeowners want their seasonal goods immediately, others hold off for delivery until October. “There isn’t a one-size-fits-all timeline—each retailer has different needs based on things like geography and space constraints,” Miller says. Another benefit of starting the holiday sales season early? “That way, we can mark it down early,” Brugge states, explaining that at Cotton Tails, holiday items are discounted in the first or second week of December, and marked down further a few days before Christmas. “You cannot wait until after Christmas because then it doesn’t matter what it is, customers are over it.”
meaning after hours, so that when customers come in the next day, the store has been transformed. “I liken our displays to The Elves and the Shoemaker,” Brugge says, referring to the fairy tale in which elves visit a poor cobbler at night and help revive his business. “You leave at night and you come back and everything’s done.” Whitehouse sets the scene at Bright Beginnings with lights, decorative window displays and even scented candles to entice shoppers with the aromas of the holidays, while Annie Cantrell, owner of Annie’s Blue Ribbon General Store in Brooklyn, NY, commissions a local artist to create a holidaythemed bespoke painting in her shop’s window. Spread seasonal cheer even further with instore festivities. A rotating cast of holiday characters pays Cotton Tails a visit on Saturdays in December, including Sophia the Elf, the Sugar Plum Fairy and Mrs. Claus. The latter is especially popular: “Kids get kind of scared of Santa, but there’s just something about Mrs. Santa,” she muses. Whitehouse’s store hosts a silhouette artist and a photographer around the holidays and has local purveyors and artisans on hand for product demonstrations and gifting inspiration. Of course, there’s always the question of when to deck the halls. “It’s a fine line,” Rogers states. “The big box stores start [holiday] so early, and I feel like there’s this urgency to beat them to it. But when people come into the store, they’re not ready.” Instead of bowing to the pressure, Rogers waits until the weekend before Thanksgiving to bring in the Christmas gear. Brugge likes to wait until one holiday ends before moving on to the next, but “that first weekend after Halloween, the whole entire store goes into holiday.” And while holiday tunes are clearly an essential part of the overall experience, it’s a sensitive subject: Don’t expect to hear “Jingle Bells” at Cotton Tails until after Thanksgiving. “We don’t want to hear it any sooner,” Brugge declares.
“Some people think I’m crazy, but if I can get the majority of my Chirstmas stock by the end of September or beginning of October, I think that’s best.”
CREATE A WINTER WONDERLAND When it comes to decorating and merchandising, a festive atmosphere “puts people in a better mood to shop and spend money,” Goodfellow states. Accordingly, consider going all out—not just with a single display, but throughout the entire store, as Brugge does at Cotton Tails. She’s careful to make sure the magic happens behind the scenes—
KEEP IT CLASSIC Anyone who’s been in a children’s store around Christmas—or any store, for that matter—knows bright, bold holiday looks featuring beloved holiday staples like Santa and Rudolph are in high demand. But as Whitehouse puts it, “subtle and tasteful has always been my preference.” Similarly, Rogers explains, “Holiday is very conservative. Even the people who aren’t normally traditional go more traditional for the holidays.” She stocks her store with special occasion wear from Bella Bliss and Isabel Garretón for church and family outings, as well as a few “subtle red dresses that aren’t over-the-top fancy” for school parties. Miller points to classic patterns like tartan and Fair Isle and whimsical touches like ticking as big trends in Mud Pie’s holiday 2015 offerings, especially when mixed with modern pieces like playful appliqued tops. Girls’ holiday dresses with smocking (by brands like Claire & Charlie and Vive La Fête) are big in the South, as well as casual wear in >38 2 0 1 5 J U LY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 2 3
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BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL
Bunny Love
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ARA OAKLEY, FOUNDER and designer of Sweet Cottontail, has a special place in her heart for a particular childhood blanket. Oakley says the small blue blanket, in the shape of a bunny, was her sister’s, but the cherished item provided a sense of security while growing up, helping them both “get through whatever we needed to get through.” Oakley’s sister was given two bunny blankets when she was born, one yellow and one blue, but the blue one especially stands out to Oakley today. Her sister still has both bunnies and Oakley laughs, “I would love to have one of them, but she will not give them up, even at the age of 32!” So when Oakley launched her American-made brand Sweet Cottontail in 2011,“It took about two minutes to come up with our company name,” she recalls. Just like those beloved blankets, Oakley hopes her line of dresses and playclothes for girls ages 2 to 8 will be cherished from generation to generation. She first developed her love of all-things-heirloom as a child, when she tagged along with her grandmother at estate sales. “I would help her tag and organize things, but mostly I wasn’t much help because I liked to go to the attic and hunt for treasures.” Her favorite discovery is a piece of lace she once found in a vintage Saks Fifth Avenue hat box. She knew the lace, so carefully preserved, had a deeper meaning, even if its owner wasn’t
Sweet Cottontail hops into little hearts with heirloom details and easy-to-wear silhouettes.
around to explain it. (She has kept the box to this day.) Fittingly, Oakley’s collection is filled with vintage-inspired details, like bows, ruffles, crystal buttons and lace, set against a dreamy palette of petal pinks, charcoals and creams. Yet the pieces are still perfect for play, she notes, pointing to the brand’s comfortable silhouettes and soft fabrics, like cotton and rayon knit. That’s why the brand only offers a spring/summer collection each year: Oakley, who designs each piece from sketch to pattern-making to draping, prefers running and twirling in a summer field to fall’s falling temperatures. So what’s the secret to the brand’s success so far? Aside from its madein-Kentucky bona fides, which Oakley reports her customers love, “I’m the one doing the sales calls, and I like that,” she says. “The level of personal customer service is key. If a customer calls, they talk to me—the person who started and makes the brand.” It’s a strategy that’s working: Sweet Cottontail is now available at approximately 45 U.S. retailers, as well as in Dubai and Australia. Wholesale prices range from $26 to $70. When she isn’t busy running her own brand—which isn’t often these days—Oakley works as a nanny to three children. When people ask one of her charges where she got her clothes, she points up and proclaims, “My nanny! My nanny!” Oakley muses, “It’s a humbling experience that she looks up to me and sees me working hard. I’m a nanny, but I want more. It’s so important to me that she sees that.” —Laurie Cone
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Southern Charm Tennessee-based Elizabeth Cate pairs prominent prints with timeless dresses.
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HERE ARE NO rules,” Lauren Hines, owner and designer of Elizabeth Cate declares. “I always thought childrenswear was so fun.” Hines was inspired to launch her Tennesseebased dress line in 2013 after a family friend with three daughters mentioned she couldn’t find quality clothing that could be passed down and eventually worn by all of her girls. Plus, she wanted items that could coordinate, but were age appropriate for each daughter. It was the motivation Hines needed— and Elizabeth Cate was born. Calling the collection “high-end, social occasion clothing” for girls, Hines stresses that the styles are “classic, not trendy,” meaning one look can work for several ages. While her first collection offered lots of solids and several silhouettes—from jumpers to separates—the runaway bestsellers and most-requested styles were the brand’s cotton dresses in vivid floral prints. Accordingly, for Spring ’15, Hines decided to focus exclusively on dresses for girls ages 2 to 8. “Our styles are especially popular with Southern moms; they like our fun, bold prints,” Hines notes. (For Fall ’15, the dresses will sport a softer palette of blush and white with gold details, like polka dots and birds, while Spring ’16 will bring brighter colors and new patterns, like paisleys and hydrangeas.) It’s fitting that Hines understands her tar-
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get market so well. After all, she graduated from the University of Alabama with a degree in Apparel Design and now lives in Franklin, TN. Even so, she was still surprised by one discovery: Southern shoppers have been more receptive to the brand’s made-in-America price tag, with wholesale prices ranging from $30 to $47. “Once we started selling more in the South, we encountered less price resistance [from consumers],” she observes. Hines decided from day one to stick to domestic manufacturing as a way to differentiate Elizabeth Cate from other brands on the market. For the first season, she partnered with a factory in Minnesota, but the dresses are now made completely in California. “Our quality is top-notch, and quality is what really sets us apart,” she adds. Today, the brand is carried at seven U.S. retailers, and can be found at AmericasMart showroom in Atlanta. Eventually, Hines hopes to grow internationally. How does the young entrepreneur plan to expand? “My father has been in the business world for 30 years, and he started his business from scratch too. He told me, ‘You just have to get in front of people so they know who you are.’ I want to show my face as much as I can,” she explains. Accordingly, Hines has debuted her brand at ENK Children’s Club, AmericasMart Atlanta and Dallas Kids World—and she is poised to attend Playground in Las Vegas this summer. And what do the daughters of her family friend wear now? “They wear Elizabeth Cate all the time!” Hines laughs. —L.C.
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complains about the rising costs of wages, supplies, oil, etc. Even now when oil costs half, they’ll complain about that. There are always a ton of reasons why they can’t get it done. We prefer to problem-solve and help the factories figure out how to meet the needs of our retailers. Last year, for example, we doubled our quality control and quality assurance teams. Instead of complaining about why a factory is telling us the price is X, we show them how they can make it for Y. We’ll show them how the consumption rate of the material can be cut better or how they can last and glue differently. We are always working closely with our factory partners to help them produce our shoes better and quicker without compromising quality. The factory doesn’t tell us they have to get this material from this source, this buckle from another and the cost will be this… We tell them to get it from our suppliers and put it all together our way. That allows us to price shoes quickly and affordably. It’s not rocket science. But if you don’t know how to do it, then you shouldn’t be in this business. Do factories like this level of hands-on involvement? They love us because we are helping them be more efficient. The result is they get more business. They are not trying to fool anybody; they just think their way is right. But if we can figure out how to work together better, then it’s a win-win. Do you see the bulk of production moving out of China any time soon? No. Those that think that are probably having difficulties sourcing there. There are solutions. But we are making some shoes in Vietnam as part of joint ventures with factories that we work with in China. The pricing just couldn’t be met on certain core products. It’s nothing too tricky or fancy.
Of course it can. Consumers can always benefit from that one-on-one experience if the service is really good. I had customers wait hours for me to fit their kids when I worked at Lester’s because I was performing a valuable service by providing what was healthy for their children. There are pockets of retailers around the country that still offer that—like Harry’s in New York and Little’s in Pittsburgh—but there’s no school or training program for it. Might online be the ultimate competitor for independents in general? It’s definitely hurting them. But I think they can service their local communities the way online retailers are trying to service the world. Again, it’s problem-solving and changing with the times. If you don’t, you’re dead. I also come from that independent retailing world and believe they are very important because they can show the breadth of a brand, whereas department stores tend to pigeonhole brands into certain aspects. I always see opportunity. I know if I opened a store today, I could be successful at it.
“Now, after a whole day at work followed by making dinner and putting the kids to bed, [Mom] turns on her computer, pours a glass of wine and shops... That’s just how shopping has changed.”
How is the online retailing tier impacting your business? Women have changed their shopping habits. She’s most likely working and it’s harder to take the kids to the shoe store. Think about the old days: Mothers had to put the baby in a car seat, round up the bigger kids who didn’t want to go shopping, then the baby throws up on one of the bigger kids, then she has to clean it up—all before she starts driving! Then she has to find a parking spot—argue for that spot—and then has to get the baby into a stroller, go into the store and wait for service only to be told they don’t have the shoe she wants in stock. That’s a nightmare. Now, after a whole day at work followed by making dinner and putting the kids to bed, she turns on her computer, pours a glass of wine and shops. And if it doesn’t work or fit, she sends it back. That’s just how shopping has changed. By that scenario you basically made kids’ brick-and-mortar stores obsolete. Can that tier survive?
What would your store be like? It would be all about customer service and assortment. It would be about fit, service and what the customer is not getting elsewhere. You have to have a reason for being, otherwise you are not giving a reason for the customer to come into your store. But if you don’t do it right when they do come in, then that customer isn’t coming back. Harry’s is doing it right: they fit kids correctly, offer good service and the inventory is right. There’s a reason why they’ve been successful over the years. There have been plenty of other shoe stores that were once based in Manhattan who aren’t there anymore, and there are reasons why they are not.
Do you have any advice for retailers? Trust the brand information. We spend a lot of time traveling, sourcing and marketing to our consumers with a specific message. Sometimes retailers will pigeonhole a brand into a corner that they need to fill rather than stay true to the brand’s core product statement. I would also advise to work closer with your vendors to plan your business earlier so we can work earlier with the factories to get you what you need. When orders meet a set deadline we can better command the price and delivery you need. Too often, however, we tell our retailers to get their orders in before Chinese New Year (February) and a lot of them don’t. Then they come to us later wanting a price on a certain boot for a certain delivery date that we can’t meet. While other companies might take the order anyway and run around China trying to figure out how to fulfill it, we believe that causes a domino effect of poor quality and shipping delays, which doesn’t stay true to the brand’s integrity. We won’t do that. Instead,
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we try and work closely with our partners so they understand what their needs are and, if they follow our schedule, we will deliver quality and on time. That way we can both succeed going forward.
“Consumers can always benefit from that one-on-one experience if the service is really good.”
It sounds like common sense, but retailers want to buy later and later. They are all waiting to get their open-to-buys and their style-outs completed, which I understand. But why not come to our showroom and pick 30 styles that you’re really confident about— five to 10 of which you probably had in your mix last year. Even if it seems unorthodox to buy it in January, do it because you are going to need it next fall. At least that way I can get your order on some boots as well as your back-to-school staples going early at the price and delivery dates you need. That way I can get our factory partners to work when they are not as busy. And, you know what, maybe we can work out an arrangement that gets you a better price because they are not so busy. That will enable you to be more profitable and everybody is happy. What usually happens, however, the orders pour in after the Vegas show, which leads to a chain of events that the factories control by raising their prices. So when I
hear a retailer complain about pricing, often it’s the result of poor planning and not sourcing correctly. You speak with far too much common sense for this industry. [Laughs.] Well, I’ve made enough mistakes in the past and I’ve been able to learn from them all. Along those lines, every partnership is different and we take a very economical, practical and conscientious approach to what is right for us as well as all of our partners. And when I say “all of our partners,” I’m referring to our brands, factories, retailers and consumers—everyone is included.
What do you love most about your job? I love coming to work every day. I am very passionate about what I do. I strive for perfection and demand the same work ethic from everyone around me. I feel privileged to work with great brands and retail partners—I see it as an honor. And, of course, I’m privileged to work with my LJP team and the ability to think of an idea, develop it, produce it and then ship it is pretty amazing. When I see our shoes come out of the box and, for example, watch a little girl hug her mom… That’s what we set out to do. We made a difference. I love what we do.•
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“Holiday is very conservative. Even people who aren’t normally traditional go more traditional for the holidays.”
holiday motifs by Persnickety, according to Brugge. Several retailers and manufacturers cite monogramming as popular around the holidays; Miller says personalized bibs, stockings, blankets, pajamas, sweaters and hats are a hit for Mud Pie, while Rogers likes SkylarLuna’s PJs because their consistent patterns let monogrammed initials pop. To appeal to customers seeking something a little more subdued, consider brands like Coccoli, which has made a classic approach to holiday its signature. According to Francois Vachon, VP of the Canadian brand, that means “no reindeer and no Santa Claus.” Instead, Coccoli’s holiday ’15 offerings include boys’ pajama tops with a candy cane stripe in red and heather gray paired with a solid gray bottom and an allover red floral on a gray background for girls. This subtle design aesthetic comes with a few unintended yet welcome benefits—Coccoli’s PJs have a longer shelf life than typical seasonal products and appeal to customers who don’t celebrate Christmas but still want something festive for the winter holiday season. The same rules apply when it comes to gifts and toys: At some stores, tried-and-true holiday franchises, like Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer and Elf on the Shelf, are as much of a hit with little ones as gift-buying parents. On the other hand, retailers like Rogers lean toward items that are “a little more special,” like the elegant holiday plushes from
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French brand Maileg, which fly off the shelves at Pink Lemon Blue Lime.
STOCK UP ON STOCKING STUFFERS Irresistible accessories and other trinkets are go-to gifts during the holidays, and a great way to accentuate your assortment. Last year, Rogers devoted an entire table to stocking stuffers like mittens, ornaments and toys, and reports that it was a big hit. The expansion of her toy selection this year should bring it to the next level. Miller says accessories like “Cookies for Santa” plates and “Daddy & Me” bowties are big seasonal sellers for Mud Pie. And at Bright Beginnings, hats, hair accessories and socks are particularly popular around the holidays, according to Whitehouse. Quirky-cute gifts are the bread and butter at Annie’s Blue Ribbon General Store, and at the holidays, Cantrell says, “We go bananas.” She mentions stickers from Peaceable Kingdom, pen sets from International Arrivals, socks from Gumball Poodle, plushes from Jellycat and craft sets from Eeboo as hot sellers. The store also features a back wall decked out with an array of 60 different ornaments. In addition to stocking items from mainstay brands like Two’s Company, Brugge sets aside about 5 percent of her December budget for accessories, which allows her to jump on new trends when she spots them. She explains that when kids come into the store with cute
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outfit add-ons, like Silly Bandz (which took off around the holidays in 2010) and last year’s Frozen necklaces, “I shamelessly get the name and I hunt it down. It’s always good to leave some money to groove with,” she adds. REMEMBER SEASON’S GREETINGS The holidays can be hectic for retailers and shoppers alike—all the more reason that superb customer service is key during gift-buying season. Goodfellow points out that many shoppers in the market for kids’ gifts aren’t regular consumers of children’s products. “That’s when service really comes into play,” she says. “It’s a huge unknown area for a lot of people. Ideas and inspiration for gift-giving shoppers really help.” It’s especially true for smaller boutiques, where shoppers aren’t simply snatching up this year’s must-have toy. Customer service is an area in which they can really shine. In fact, good sales help is Cotton Tails’ “biggest weapon” against big-box stores during the holidays, according to Brugge. She says that while her store tried holding early-morning sales during Thanksgiving weekend to lure Black Friday shoppers, it didn’t stick, so she went back to opening up at Cotton Tails’ regular 10 a.m. time. “What works for us is having fabulous customer service, beautiful gift wrap and having things that other people do not have.” To that end, consider beefing up your sales staff to accommodate the increase in traffic around the holidays, as Whitehouse does at Bright Beginnings. Even better, Mud Pie makes it easy on holiday shoppers with ready-to-gift packaging. The brand offers knitwear sets and reindeer socks that come in conveniently gift-able boxes—no wrapping required. “My First Christmas” sleep gowns packaged in fiber board gingerbread houses and “Santa’s Favorite” onepieces tucked into Mason jars come ready to be placed under the Christmas tree. Similarly, boutiques can become one-stop holiday shops by providing free or inexpensive gift-wrapping services. If long lines of impatient customers preclude that, do as Cantrell does at her store and offer gift-wrapping supplies like tissue paper and ribbon with each purchase. These special touches are why, despite competition from online vendors, brick-and-mortar stores continue to see shoppers flocking to their shelves. Children’s retailers that ring in the season with thoughtfully selected merchandise, cheerful decorations, gift-inspiring promotional events and skilled sales help manage to make holiday shopping a pleasant experience. As Whitehouse puts it, “We try to create a festive atmosphere and a welcoming environment that makes people feel at home.” •
“What works for us is having fabulous customer service, beautiful gift wrap and having things that other people do not have.”
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shop talk Made to Order IT’S SAFE TO say Meg Fisher is a planner. The owner of Lincoln & Lexi, a children’s boutique and photography studio in Des Moines, IA, Fisher began laying the groundwork for her store in college and launched Lincoln & Lexi in 2010 as a custom home party and baby shower business not long after graduating. Her handmade pieces were such a hit that she opened a mall kiosk about a year later. Today, Fisher’s shop offers a range of high-end children’s and maternity brands in ad1. “Kickee Pants is one of our goto brands when someone comes in for a gift, and they’re not sure what they are looking for,” Fisher says. “The nice thing about their bamboo [fabric] is we can sell the same styles all year round because it breathes so well. Their sleepers sell like crazy.” (kickeepants.com) 2. For teething babies, Fisher’s customers can’t resist amber beads by Momma Goose. “It’s Baltic amber, which is a natural anti-inflammatory. It’s a great alternative to Motrin or Tylenol.” (ambergoose.ca)
dition to her popular in-house line. In fact, “About 75 percent of our sales come from our custom products, accessories and gifts—about 10 percent of our square footage,” she notes. With a custom accessories station and the ability to add embroidery on the spot, little and big customers alike love stopping by to whip up something special. As for the name, it’s what she plans to call her son and daughter one day. (Thankfully, she reports, her fiancé is on board.) —Audrey Goodson Kingo 5. Her go-to holiday gift? “Last year I brought in family pajamas from Hatley, and they were the biggest hit. We reordered three or four times. We had families who bought as many as 10 sets and got them all personalized.” (hatley.com) 6. Wrap tops by Isabella Oliver are a popular pick because “depending on whether you’re carrying higher or lower, you can move the wrap to that area,” Fisher says. “So if you need more support lower, you just spread it out farther lower, and vice versa if you’re carrying higher.” (isabellaoliver.com/us)
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3. “I added a new sector to our company called the custom accessory bar, or CAB. We have over 150 different selections of elastic for headbands, and we have hundreds of different flowers and pearls—so customers can get the exact shade of pink they want to go with their outfit,” Fisher says. 4. “When I do my maternity buying, I really try to find pieces that women can wear before, during and after pregnancy,” Fisher explains. One example? Lilac’s striped Jill maxi dress. “It’s such an adorable fit, whether you’re pregnant or not.” (lilacclothing.com)
7. “Bamboo swaddles by Aden + Anais are definitely one of our bestselling products—especially for parents who want gender-neutral items, because they have really good prints that are great for a boy or girl.” (adenandanais.com) 8. “In a sense, Lincoln & Lexi is a live Etsy shop, where you can actually come in and pick out what you want, know the quality you’re going to get, design it right here with us and pick it up in a few days. Our Lincoln & Lexi ribbon blankets, for example, are our top-selling baby gift.”
4 Owner Meg Fisher loves to help little ones craft custom items.
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