TOY STO RY : TO P S A L E S T I P S A N D T H E B E ST B U I L D I N G G I Z M O S
VOLUME 98 NUMBER 2
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View Our SS14 & FW14 Collecions at These Shows KSA
Feb 11-12 Doubletree By Hilton – Westside Culver CIty, California
ATLANTA SHOE MARKET Booth C43 Feb 14-16 Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, Georgia
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Stand T30 Feb 16-18 National Exhibition Centre Birmingham, United Kingdom
CALIFORNIA KIDS SHOW Feb 23-25 Embassy Suites San Francisco Airport - South San Francisco, California
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Feb 24-26 The Marriott Teaneck at Glenpointe Teaneck, New Jersey
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FEBRUARY 2014 Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief
FASHION FEATURES 14 Child's Play From savvy merchandising tips to musthave products, retail experts share how specialty shops can capitalize on the growing toy market. 26 Silver Lining President Bill LaRossa reveals how he turned Primigi USA into a top kids' shoe brand: with the help of Gina, his wife and business partner of 15 years.
32 It's Electric Fall footwear takes a spin on the color wheel with bold pops of Kool-Aid hues.
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Brittany Leitner Assistant Editor
6 Editor’s Note 8 Talking Points 10 Hot Properties 12 Fresh Finds 18 On Trend 22 In the Bag 24 Play Room 42 Behind the Seams 48 Stargazing
ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Alex Marinacci Account Executive Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster
This page: Frankie & Ava overalls and plaid button-down shirt, See Kai Run high-tops. Cover: Bóboli sweater, gingham button-down shirt and pants, socks by Jefferies, Siaomimi Play crown, Sperry Top-Sider boat shoe, Cole Haan desert boot, Lacoste high-top on floor. Photography by Raphael Buchler. Styling by Angela Velasquez. Hair and makeup by Sabrina Rowe for Next Artists.
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CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office Joel Shupp 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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editor’s note THIS MONTH KICKS off the year of the horse in the Chinese calendar—but for children’s retailers, it just might be the year of the fox. I overheard more than one retailer declare, “Fox is the new owl,” as I browsed the aisles at shows in Atlanta and New York. Designers’ fall collections were filled with creative takes on the clever animal, stamped on everything from tees to dolls. Clearly the woodland creatures craze is still going strong, but brands and buyers alike are ready to give the go-to owl a bit of a break and find another forest friend. Hence, the fox. In a case of near-perfect timing, thanks to Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis, everyone is pondering a very perplexing question: What does the fox say? A viral Internet sensation, the duo’s song, “The Fox,” played on loop at our January and February photo shoots. Our young models couldn’t get enough of its catchy hook and goofy lyrics, meant to be a parody of today’s electronic dance music. Parody or not, the song’s official music video has more than 335 million views on YouTube, making it the top trending video of 2013. In one of those strange twists of fate in the fashion world, the video was released in September of last year, but many kids’ designers had already been incorporating foxes into their Fall ’14 collections long before the song became a hit. It’s simply a case of serendipitous coinci-
Feeling Foxy How a wily woodland creature snuck into kids’ hearts—and onto their clothes.
dence that some brands’ designs will feature foxes in the wake of the creature’s soaring popularity. Take, for example, the case of Mack & Co.: At January market the brand debuted a playful twist on the popular fox fur stoles of the 1920s and 30s, with a jacket to match. Owner and designer Gerri Mack is pleased her design is on-trend, but her inspiration for the scarf didn’t come from Norway, but rather a little closer to her home in the Ozark Mountains: “Where I’m located we have some pretty great untapped antique and vintage stores, and about a year ago, I saw an old mink fox scarf, and I thought if we could make it playful, it would be a hoot,” she shares. “We’ve all seen the owl ad nauseam, so I think we’re all looking for another critter, and the fox is probably due for its turn.” Leave it to a wily creature like the fox to insinuate itself into the zeitgeist so skillfully. What does the fox say for brands and retailers who jumped on the bandwagon early? Sales!
AUDREY GOODSON KINGO
audrey.kingo@9threads.com
LIVIE & LUCA® Fall/Winter 2014 Collection
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Talking
Points
a
Teenage Tweetheart Can a young social media star
save ailing retailer Aéropostale?
S THE TEEN apparel category continues to slump at retail, mall stalwart Aéropostale hopes to revive interest by partnering with social media “It” girl, Bethany Mota, for a line of apparel and accessories. The collection’s debut predictably unleashed a torrent of social media chatter and was a glimmer of bright news in an otherwise gloomy season for the retailer: Aéropostale’s third quarter sales were down 15 percent to $514.6 million as compared to $605.9 million the year before. And although teenagers are naturally temperamental, the shift in their buying habits can’t be blamed on mood swings alone. “The teen market is performing poorly as evident by steep samestore sales declines since summer 2013,” says Poonam Goyal, senior retail analyst at Bloomberg Industries. “Notably, we think that’s due in part to high teen unemployment rates and lack of major new fashion trends.” In other words, simply stamping clothes with recognizable logos no longer guarantees a sure buy for under-20 shoppers. And according to the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics, the youth labor force, which represents 16- to 24-year-olds, is still struggling with an unemployment rate of 16.3 percent as of July 2013.
Social media star Bethany Mota shares her shopping finds with more than 4 million followers on YouTube.
So how do retailers reach teenagers in such a tricky retail environment? If you’re Aéropostale, you hire one of your own. Following the lead of stores like Target and H&M that have seen enormous success with designer collaborations in recent years, Aéropostale tapped social media maven Mota for a Fall ’13 collection that hit stores in December and is expected to continue throughout 2014. Although fashion bloggers saw a rise in popularity in 2013—Susie Lau from Style Bubble and Jane Aldridge from Sea of Shoes collaborated with Urban Outfitters for women's fashion collections—Aéropostale’s collaboration with the blogger is the first of its kind in the teen market. Four years ago, the now 18-year-old Mota began posting YouTube videos documenting everything from back-to-school looks to DIY room decorations. She has since garnered more than 4 million YouTube subscribers and one million Twitter followers. Goyal agrees the collaboration is a savvy move, especially since the Mota line, which retails from $5 to $78, is priced to compete with fast-fashion chains H&M and Forever 21, whose low price points are also a big factor in luring teen shoppers away from stores like Aéropostale. “Margins are shrinking as promotions are rising to drive traffic,” Goyal says, adding, “Any new collaboration should help boost sales.” —Brittany Leitner
® MEET THE EARNSHAW'S TEAM IN LAS VEGAS AT THE KIDSHOW COCKTAIL PARTY, MONDAY, FEB. 17 AT 3 P.M. AT BALLY'S HOTEL. 8 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4
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HOT PROPERTIES
Aye Aye, Captain
Disney lines up multiple licenses to fete the release of its second Captain America film.
IF ANY COMPANY knows how to market a film release, it’s Disney. With ownership of six out of the top 10 franchises in the U.S., including Cars, Toy Story and Spiderman, Disney aims to up the
ante for its latest Marvel flick, Captain America: The Winter Soldier, by rolling out an array of licensed products preceding the film’s April release date. “Captain America is a character with high awareness and affinity, and his shield icon is incredibly popular on products,” says Paul Gitter, senior vice president of licensing, Marvel, at Disney Consumer Products. Key brands include Under Armour and Berkshire for kids’ apparel, accessories and rainwear. “Under Armour and Marvel are a perfect match since both brands stand for strength,” Gitter points out. Under Armour co-branded graphic tees, layering pieces, shorts and headwear will be available at sporting goods retailers in sizes 8 to 20 for boys, with a wholesale price range of $19.99 to $34.99. The apparel will come in Captain America’s signature red, white and blue colors and feature the white star and circle emblem as a centerpiece. In addition, rain gear, hats and socks will be available from Berkshire, for $5.99 to $19.99. The accessories showcase both the star emblem and images of the superhero. “Captain America is a natural for boys, but the appeal is broad since he is also known to parents,” Gitter notes. “Add to the fact that his suit has appealing colors and a memorable shield icon, and you have a winning combination.” Products will be refreshed at retail with each apparel season. For more information visit www.disneyconsumerproducts. com. — Brittany Leitner
Get Your Kicks Dickies steps further in the children’s category with its first footwear line.
FOLLOWING A SPRING ’14 clothing line distributed by Intradeco Apparel, LLC, Dickies is continuing its expansion in the infant, toddler and kids’ market with its first line of children’s footwear. Dickies inked a deal with SG Footwear, a division of SG Companies, for hikers, loafers, laceup and Mary Jane styles due to hit shelves in Fall ’14. “We are looking to fill white space that exists at retail with durable, comfortable, on-trend casual footwear, as well as develop a collection of dress footwear to complement Dickies’ school uniform business,” says Elisa Gangl, vice president of licensing and marketing at SG Footwear. “We plan on having the collection as part of our long-term growth strategy,” she adds. The line will be available in sizes 0 to 3 and wholesale for $4.50 for newborns to $15 for boys and girls. Big box shoe chains, mid-tier and mass retailers will carry the footwear, and Gangl reveals, “Distribution will expand in Spring ’15 with a significant rollout for back-to-school.” To find out more, e-mail Rosie Iglesias at rosiei@thesgcompanies.com. — B.L.
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LEGO, the LEGO logo, and the Brick and Knob configurations and the Minifigures are trademarks of the LEGO Group. ©2014 the LEGO Group. THE LEGO MOVIE © The LEGO Group & Warner Bros Entertainment inc. Produced by SGI Apparel Group under licensing from the LEGO Group.
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RESH FINDS
Color Play
Named after the creators’ pet Chihuahuas, Lulu Blu delivers whimsical sophistication for girls’ sizes 2 to 8. Vibrant colors and prints dictate the designs of each collection, and the classic styles are as suitable for a playdate as a party. Wholesale prices range from $9 for cotton shorts and tees to $19 for knit and woven dresses. Check out www. lulubluapparel.com.
Tie It Up
Whodihoo makes its market debut with Slicknot, a range of ties for little guys. The easy-to-use accessory features two parts: a traditional necktie and the removable, magnetic Slicknot that makes it easy for little fingers to create a perfect knot every time. And because the ties are adjustable, one size fits all, from 2T to 6 years. Wholesale prices range from $9 to $14. Check out www.whodihoo.com.
Pack ‘n’ Roll
Itzy Ritzy has added rolling luggage to its line of lifestyle accessories. Wholesaling from $8 to $30, the child-sized travel bags are made of durable polyester canvas and feature a spacious interior and zippered pockets, while an adjustable locking handle extends for both child and adult heights. Recommended for ages 3 years and up, the CPSIA-compliant case is BPA-, lead- and phthalates-free and comes in two color options: a pink owl for girls and a blue monkey for boys. Go to www.itzyritzy.com.
Innovative products with a playful touch ease life for parents and please little ones.
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Move It
Family-owned and operated Cutie Pie Baby has added activewear label RBX to its portfolio of brands. Cutie Pie will manufacture, market and distribute takedowns of the brand’s sporty apparel and accessories for newborns, infants and toddlers, while One Step Up/ Aggressive Apparel has signed on as licensee for kids’ sizes 4 to 20. Wholesale prices range from $8 to $30. Visit www.rbxactive.com.
Baby Basics
San Francisco-made Axl Brand handpicks environmentally sensitive materials for its unisex line of loungewear in sizes newborn to 24 months. Wholesaling from $8 to $37, styles span one-pieces and bodysuits to shirts and caps in neutral shades with contrast trims. Tagless necks mean comfort is never an issue and nickel-free snaps offer parents peace of mind. Visit www.axlbrand.com.
Swing Time
Nicely Natural
New York City-based L.Parris works with sustainable fabrics such as organic cottons and hemp to create a line of blankets, burp cloths and one-pieces that’s good for both baby and the environment. Hemp, for instance, requires no pesticides or herbicides to grow, possesses anti-fungal properties and is naturally bacteriaresistant. Wholesale prices range from $6 to $35, and one-pieces are available in sizes 3-6 months, 6-12 months and 12-18 months. Go to www.lparris.com.
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The 4moms Rockaroo infant seat turns the traditional swing on its head—literally—by placing the pivot at the base, creating more motion at the baby’s head, where it counts. Whereas the brand’s Mamaroo mimicked the soothing bouncing and swaying motions of mom and dad, the Rockaroo moves like a rocking horse. It’s 70 percent smaller than standard swings and has five speeds, an MP3 hookup and a mobile featuring reversible toy balls. Available in three color combos, the seat retails from $159 to $179 and is suitable for babies weighing up to 25 pounds. Check out www.4moms.com.
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SHOP
class
CHILD’S PLAY
With toy sales on the rise, specialty retailers are getting in on the fun and boosting business. By Lyndsay McGregor
dummy caption
AFTER A SLUGGISH few years, sales are finally stacking up for the toy industry. Toy sales in the United States are forecast to be $19.9 billion in 2013, in comparison with sales between $16 billion and $17 billion in recent years, according to market research firm Euromonitor. However, the lion’s share of these sales went to online behemoth Amazon, whose marketplace offering leverages thousands of third-party merchants—and even big box stores felt the heat. Alarm bells need not ring yet, however, for independent retailers looking to tout their toy selection. Blair Everett, U.S. distributor for plush toy company Ragtales, says that his best customers, year to year, are high-end childrenswear stores. “Children’s retailers recognize the value to their customers of offering gift items that include toys. The convenience factor is considerable for the consumer and it’s an opportunity for the retailer to add to his total margin,” he says. Kathy Gray, co-owner of Lark Toys in Kellogg, MN, says specialty stores can get in on the action in 2014 by finding their own niche and becoming known in their nabe for a particular type of toy. Not sure where to begin? Here are the top trends, from tech to traditional, that will be wrestling for consumer dollars this year. Is your store ready to play? RECONSIDER GENDER Every Toys “R” Us, Target and Wal-Mart is split into boy and girl sections, the former filled with action figures and construction sets, while the latter is a sea of pink sparkles. But the backlash has begun. Consumers are starting to steer their children toward toys that require them to use their imagination, regardless of who they’re marketed for, and independent retailers should seize the moment. Just witness the skyrocketing sales of last year’s hit toy, the Rainbow Loom, a bracelet-making gizmo that appealed to boys and girls alike. “Children are unique, and while growing they are unfolding their unique selves. Toys can offer ways to try out interests and ideas, so each child should have the chance to select from a wide range of them,” Gray says, pointing to tried-and-true Spirograph, which retails for around $25 a set, and LunaStix juggling sticks, as gender-neutral examples that consistently sell well at her store. “Toys should be more open-ended so that children can try out building and creative toys without gender limitations.”
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Playforever’s retro styling appeals to parents and tots, too.
OFFER EDUCATIONAL TOYS Move over Baby Einstein: The second generation of brain-boosting playthings has arrived, and STEAM-oriented toys, encouraging skills needed to excel in science, technology, engineering, the arts and math, are more popular than ever. Girls’ engineering toys by GoldieBlox and Magna-Tiles construction sets were runaway successes last year at Amuse Toys in Baltimore, MD. As Owner Claudia Towles notes, educational toys like these offer long-term play value by challenging children to stretch their imagination and use their intellect. Adrienne Appell, a spokesperson for the Toy Industry Association seconds this: “These are smart, innovative toys that are inspiring kids to learn and are really fostering their creativity, taking kids’ interests to the next level.” According to data from the NPD Group, sales of building sets rose 22 percent from 2011 to 2012, from $1.63 billion to $1.99 billion. Sales of scientific toys and educational toys, while a tiny fraction of overall toy sales, grew as well, by 17 percent and 25 percent respectively. Even something as basic as a set of wooden blocks is educational. Cristina Villegas, owner of New York City children’s boutique Yoya, carries a selection of Uncle Goose wooden alphabet blocks in English, Spanish and French in her carefully curated store and says they’re popular with everyone from Tribeca moms to tourists. As Gray points out, toys are tools, and playing with good ones can offer opportunities to learn, to interact with others, to build, to imagine, to nurture and to create. “It seems to us that
there’s a growing recognition that too many toys have little play and educational value, and we’re starting to see a desire for something healthier and of more quality,” she says. GO FOR GIFTS If you don’t have the floor space to dedicate to toys, consider carrying a small selection of giftables, like plush, books and wooden classics. These make ideal add-on purchases, says Carol Adams, owner of Torly Kid in New York, especially if they’re merchandised throughout the store in thoughtful vignettes of coordinated items. “People looking at clothes will pick up a toy that they might not normally have seen if they were in a separate section because they weren’t looking in that area before,” she says. Villegas agrees: “Fifty percent of my job as a retailer is to buy nice things, but the other 50 percent is merchandising it well. That’s what makes a sale.” When it comes to gift items, she bases her choices on design and packaging. “Visually, the product has to go with my clothing. And when I order plush, cuddly toys, they need to feel really good,” she says, naming British brand Jellycat’s soft toys as a customer favorite. LOOK FOR CLASSIC LICENSES “Pop culture and licensing are always a huge influence on the toy market, and 2014 may be one of the most successful movie-toy tie-ins in recent history,” Appell states. A plethora of anticipated blockbusters hit the big screen this year, including: The Lego Movie, Captain America: The Winter Soldier, The Amazing Spider-Man
2, X-Men: Days of Future Past, Guardians of the Galaxy and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Thanks to promotions timed to boost box office numbers, toymakers can look forward to a bumper crop of movie-related sales. But in such a saturated market, it’s often tough for independent stores to compete with big box shops. And picking a hit can be especially tricky since ticket sales and toy sales don’t always go hand in hand, notes Jim Silver, CEO and editor-in-chief of TimetoPlayMag.com. “You can have a movie like Planes that was not a big box office number but in retail it was absolutely phenomenal. It didn’t have a huge demographic but it did appeal to 3- to 5-year-old boys and they wanted to bring those characters home. That could bring a lot of people to the store during a normally quiet period.” Towles, however, cautions that unless the product has a literary tie-in, such as Thomas the Train, specialty stores should leave licensing to the big guys, and Gray agrees. She notes that her customers love Manhattan Toy’s Cat in the Hat plush, but that not every toy needs a licensed character. “Some licenses have great staying power and invoke happy memories for children and parents alike, like Star Wars, Harry Potter and Mickey Mouse. Some are silly. As a specialty retailer you must ask what the license does to improve the toy,” she says. GET TECHY Kids are more plugged in than ever before and if current trends persist, tech-driven play will continue its reign in 2014. A survey conducted for PBS Kids found that more than half of parents with children ages 2 to 10 planned to buy a tech item for their kids last year, and twothirds revealed they planned to give a tablet or smartphone. Technology companies are racing to introduce gadgets designed for smaller hands, hoping to woo naysayers by including educational elements. Not to be outdone, the toy industry is becoming a lot more thoughtful about finding meaningful ways to incorporate tech into toys so that the play experience is enhanced, not overshadowed. But specialty stores should be careful, warns Gray, and offer something consumers can’t find in the big box stores. Paul Nippes, owner of New York’s Kidding Around, recently added the Sparkup Magical Reader to his toyshop’s inventory and he’s hoping it will be a hit. The device clips onto books and allows parents to record a brief message for every page. Next time a child opens the book, the Sparkup recognizes the page and plays the recorded sound file. “Toymakers
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“A lot of toys never go out of style because kids today, in a lot of ways, still play very similarly to the way kids did years ago.”
Uncle Goose blocks are a hit with Tribeca moms and tourists alike at Yoya.
are making sure if tech is used in a toy that it’s fun,” Appell says. OLD SCHOOL IS COOL Retro toys are still hot for 2014, with dolls, board games and puzzles leading the way. “Non-battery operated basic play categories have grown tremendously during the high technology boom because parents don’t want their kids on screens 24-7,” states Silver, of TimetoPlayMag.com. Dominoes and Scrabble received the most online shopping searches in
2012, according to search engine site Twenga, while toys that require make-believe role play topped last year’s lists. As Gray points out, “What parent or grandparent doesn’t love sharing their favorite toys, games and books with their children and grandchildren?” Villegas says that toys that recall simpler times, like Playforever racing cars, wooden push toys from Petit Collage and marbles by Parisian brand Pirouette Cacachouete, always sell through at Yoya. As Silver points out, “What’s old is new to today’s child. The toy just
needs to be modernized and updated for them.” He adds, “A lot of toys never go out of style because kids today, in a lot of ways, still play very similarly to the way kids did years ago.” BE WARY OF “MADE IN CHINA” Before diving into the toy category, Nippes suggests considering the concerns of your consumer, as Chinese-made toys may put off many parents. “People often come in to the store and ask ‘What do you have that’s not made in China?’” he shares, noting that concerns still
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linger in the wake of the country’s 2007 lead paint scandal. Suzanne Price, owner of organic-centric children’s chain Sprout, agrees. “There have been a lot of problems with lead and other chemicals being in toys from China. People don’t trust them,” she says. Instead she suggests Green Toys, a line of classic playthings made in the U.S.A. from recycled plastic and other environmentally friendly materials, and wooden toys and games from Vermont-based Maple Landmark. But while Villegas says her selection of Michigan-made alphabet blocks from Uncle Goose are popular at Yoya, she thinks it has more to do with the craftsmanship of the product than the homegrown label. “Consumers don’t come in to my store looking for American-made product. They want something that looks good and that’s not from China. If it’s organic or made in America that’s just a bonus,” she says. THINK SAFETY Over the last five years, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Customs and Border Protection (CBP) seized
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more than 9.8 million units of about 3,000 different toys that violated lead and phthalates limits. These products never made it onto store shelves or into children’s hands. Appell declares this a great development. “As an industry, toy safety really is our No. 1 priority. We want to assure consumers that toys that are sold here in the U.S. are really held accountable and held up to really strict federal standards,” she says. In fiscal year 2013, the CPSC issued only 31 toy recalls, none of which involved a lead violation. The majority of recalls announced last year were due to ingestion hazards, including chemical and magnetic dangers. But while a lot has been done, there’s much more to do. “The CPSC has only outlawed very specific chemicals and only outlawed them in toys for children under 3 that could end up in kids’ mouths,” argues Price, urging retailers to do their research and only buy from a trusted brand. And if you know your toys are safe, promoting that is paramount. “It will make consumers question what’s safe in other stores and spread that message.” •
Manhattan Toy’s Cat in the Hat plush is a popular pick at Lark Toys.
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OnTrend
Urban Sunday tie
Kidspace
Egg by Susan Lazar button-down shirt
Frenchie Mini Couture flannel shirt, model’s own jeans
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Mayoral dress
Max & Dora jumper dress and blouse
Claesen’s moto jacket
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES. RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO
Loft 604 sweater
Reina Mora mixed print dress
Farmers wore it first, followed by railroad engineers and even cricket players until the 1970s, but it was grunge rockers like Nirvana and Pearl Jam who made it cool to wear flannel. The soft woven fabric, dating back to the 17th century Scottish Highlands, has humble roots as the go-to material for chilly winters and backbreaking labor. (It is folklore legend Paul Bunyan’s favorite type of shirt, after all.) But the latest incarnation of the material smacks of rebel boldness, keying into the ongoing demand for punkish plaids and hipster style. Whether it’s paired with denim or pleather, the look is undeniably cool. — Angela Velasquez
Flannel Folklore
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OnTrend Ba Ba Bling Baby trompe l’oeil one-piece
Val Max pleatherskirt dress
Miss Grant
Hollyworld cropped jacket
Last August more than 6,000 Harley-Davidson devotees rode into Milwaukee, WI, to celebrate the motorcycle giant’s 110th anniversary and take part in one very loud and leather-packed parade. And the journey continues as moto-inspired styling revs up for fall. On the heels of women’s labels like DKNY and Rebecca Taylor featuring pink and floral motorcycle jackets in recent collections, children’s brands are joining the pack with biker jackets, leggings, footwear and more. The training wheels may still be on, but these threads are sure to bring the confidence and fearlessness needed to take off on a two-wheeler. —A.V.
Motor City
Lucky Jade one-piece
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PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES. RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO
Gil & Jas moto-inspired jacket
Dimity Bourke vest
Stella Industries sleeveless dress
Creamie jacket, embellished T-shirt and jeans
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IN THE BAG
Petal Pusher 2
The Orchid family is home to more than 25,000 species, but only one is top of mind for tastemakers worldwide. Radiant Orchid, named Pantone Color of the Year for 2014, is about to implode on the fashion, home, makeup and children’s markets as a creative and magical complementary counterpart to last year’s renewing Emerald. It might be news to the common person, but not to runway watching moms who saw designers like Dior and Versace sprinkle the color into their Spring ’14 catwalks. Said to inspire confidence and emanate great joy, love and wealth, the versatile hue offers a fresh and exuberant alternative to the delicate pinks that typically rule the baby product world— sure to please moms looking for a sophisticated way to punch up their accoutrements. —Angela Velasquez
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1. Platypus Australia sun hat 2. Nepali by TDM lightweight scarf 3. Bonnie Marcus Collection momthemed reusable cup 4. SwaddleDesigns stroller blanket 5. Mam set of pacifiers 6. Jellyfish iPhone case 7. The First Years colic symptom-reducing bottle 8., 9. & 10. Timi & Leslie diaper tote, insulated bottle case and matching clutch 11. Diapees & Wipees baby wipes holder 12. Pediped suede boots 13. Piggy Paint non-toxic nail polish 14. Boon baby food dispenser 15. Tea Collection embroidered top.
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Play Room
Playmobil playground set
The Learning Journey marble run
Toobers & Zots foamstruction toy
Sevi building toy
Zometool model set
Laser Pegs tank
Crazy Forts construction set
Bloco robot
AS THE LINE from Field of Dreams goes: “If you build it, he will come,” but this year’s spike in gender-neutral building toys will appeal to boys and girls alike. Gift-giving grandparents, birthday party animals and parents who’ve grown tired of the dulling sounds of Candy Crush—not to mention kids with imaginations as great as the world’s best architects—will have their eyes set on these modern-day Tinker Toys, set to debut at the 2014 Toy Fair in New York City, on Feb. 1619. From wooden robots to dizzying mazes, there’s a masterpiece waiting to be made for everyone. Though none of these new building toys promise a career as illustrious as Frank Lloyd Wright’s, they do unleash the creative geniuses of boys and girls, encouraging them to scale new heights of fun. —Angela Velasquez
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES
Mad Skillz
2 4 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4
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A SAMPLING OF BRANDS AND SHOWROOMS AT KIDSHOWS FEBRUARY EVENT! 2-2 Hot Kidswear 0-16 Academie Gear Agabang Aggro Pacific Hawaii Amerex Group LLC American Vintage Amy Byer Apre`s Les Petites Arabella Rose Design Baby Beltz Baby Bling Baby Buns Baby Deer Baby Gear Baby Nay Baby Sara Baby Ziggles Babys in Bloom Babysoy, Inc. Banditz by Wee Ones Bebe Doo’s Bella Mae Biscotti Bobux Bodega International Bon Bebe Bonne Books to Bed ` Boutique Collection Breganwood Organics Butler Boot Candy Bean
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Carriage Boutiques/By Freidknit Creations Inc. Carter’s Chick Pea Children’s Apparel Network/Cradle Togs Circus 212 Clique` Coccod`e Cole, by Sweet Kids Coral & Reef Beachwear Country Kids Hosiery Crazyheads Kids Cutie Collection DC Comics DC Comics Swimwear Deidra & Kiki Designer’s Touch Disney Don Welborn & Associates Donita DownEast Basics E-Land Kids EMI Sportswear Fancy That Hat Flap Happy Flapdoodles Foxfire Inc. Fresh Baked G & J Sports G.B.Y.M. Inc. Genuine Rose Inc.
GF Knits Gigi Childrenswear Girl & Company, Inc. Glitter Girl Glitter Tots Globaltex Gloria P. Davis Kids Wear & Accessories Good Lad Apparel Gossip Girl & Hula Star Guess Kids Apparel Guess Layette Hannah Banana Happy Mermaid Hartstrings Hello Kitty Hello Kitty Swim Hot Focus Hudson Threads il Trenino Imps & Elfs In Gear Inc. iScream Isobella & Chloe Ivy Trading/Cutie Collections Jaxxwear Jefferies Socks Jessica Simpson Swimwear Jinelle JoAnn Farese Jona Michelle
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Petalia Petals by Wee Ones PLH Bows Playschool Pomchies LLC POPATU Posh International Posh Safari Jewelry Posies and Peonies Pretty Little Things Punch Brand, Inc. Quiltex rabbitmoon Ralph Lauren Polo Layette Rebecca R. Ebershoff, Inc. Reflectionz, Inc. Rene Rofe Baby Renee Navarre Showroom Rugged Bear Footwear Sam & Sydney Sara Kety Baby & Kids Sara Sara NEON Scoop Showroom Sea World Sesame Street Solo International, Inc. Sozo Spirit Bandits Squas Stargate Apparel Susie Cunningham Head to Toe Kidstuff
Sweet Kids Teresa’s Room Tess’s Tots The Bumble Collection The Glitter Box Showroom Tiny Tinkers Toe Blooms Tommy Tickle Tonka Tractr Jeans Transformers Trimfit Trimfoot Truffles Ruffles Truly Me by Sara Sara Trumpette Ultimate Apparel Under The Nile Organics Venini Vitamins Baby Weather Tamer Wee Ones LLC Wee Squeak Shoes World of Eric Carle Caterpillar and Friends Wugbug Organic Young Hearts Zip Zap Baby U.K ZiRiMi
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Q& A
Silver Lining WHEN BILL AND Gina LaRossa met in college, little did they know that fateful day would lead to a 25-year marriage and a 15-year working partnership, helming the American arm of one of the biggest children’s footwear brands in the world. But that’s exactly what happened. Gina, just a freshman at the time, met Bill, a junior, and the two immediately became good friends. Though the pair didn’t begin dating until years later, Gina says, “From the beginning, we enjoyed a lot of the same interests and kept in close touch after he graduated.” That mutual sense of admiration and friendship has served the couple well throughout the years, enabling them to work side-by-side for more than a decade to help design, distribute, sell and market one of the most respected kids’ footwear brands in the industry. Though Gina, the
director of marketing, primarily handles marketing, design and public relations, and Bill, the president, takes on the task of selling, as with any entrepreneurial family, they never hesitate to pitch in where needed. “We both crossover when necessary and as a small company we both do many other tasks,” Gina says. The couple also receives a fair share of help from their daughter Olivia, now 16, who grew up attending design meetings in Italy and modeling the high-end footwear both at school and even on the runway. “She works the trade shows and writes orders with some of the same customers who have seen her go from a toddler to a teen,” Gina shares. “It’s been great doing what we love and keeping our daughter involved on every level. She’s quite savvy when it comes to fashion, and I imagine it will somehow be a part of her future,” she adds. That deep appreciation for family is exactly what drew Bill and Gina
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
Leading a luxury kids’ brand through a rocky recession is no easy task, but Bill LaRossa, president of Primigi USA, shares his secret weapon: Gina, his business partner and wife of 25 years. Here, he reveals the recipe for their success, and why 2014 will be the brand’s best year yet. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO
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UP CLOSE WITH BILL LAROSSA What are you reading? I am re-reading The Four Agreements by Don Miguel Ruiz. It’s about positive ways to think about things and live your life. I’m also reading a book about Vince Lombardi, When Pride Still Mattered by David Maraniss. It’s a great book. What’s your favorite way to spend a free afternoon? With my girls, Gina and Olivia, just kicking around in Boston. And a Boston sporting event is always good. What super power would you love to have? Atmokinesis, the ability to change the weather with your mind— especially in Boston. What three things could you never live without? It wouldn’t be things, it would be family members. And it would be hard to pick three without getting in trouble—with my mother and father and nieces and nephews, it’s definitely more than three. We have a very close-knit family.
to Primigi when the opportunity to take over the U.S. distribution popped up in 1998. “Primigi started out as a family business, and even though it’s grown tremendously in Italy since 1976, it’s still run like a family business,” Bill notes. Not to mention that a respect for Italian footwear is embedded in the couple’s DNA: “My family is Italian, and my wife’s family is Italian,” Bill explains. “All of our roots are there.” The couple couldn’t resist the chance to introduce the Italian heritage brand to an American market flooded with low-quality footwear from the East. Europeans, Bill believes, tend to stay one step ahead of Americans when it comes to appreciating and producing quality footwear, but he’s hopeful that U.S. shoppers are coming around, particularly as prices continue to rise on shoes manufactured in China. “As the price of low quality has risen in the last few years from product in the Far East, our product looks a lot better, and I think that’s really what’s going to drive our business,” he notes. That’s not to say Primigi doesn’t already have a devoted fan base in the U.S.: Available online, at better department stores and in more than 275 independent retailers across the U.S, the brand’s high-quality construction and comfortable fit has garnered many devotees through the years, including celebrity parents like Heidi Klum and Madonna. The best part about the brand’s celeb-
rity fans, Bill notes, is that they are totally unsolicited, much like Primigi’s many 5-star online reviews. “Our product really does a lot of our advertising for us,” he explains. “People love our quality, and we hear that constantly, so every season we just try to live up to that and be better than the season before.” That unwavering commitment to quality, he points out, is what helped the brand survive the tough recession, and what he believes will propel it forward in the future, particularly in a market where “quality” and “children’s shoes” don’t often go hand in hand. Of course, European-crafted footwear comes at a premium, and Primigi’s price point, at an average of $38 wholesale, places the brand squarely in the luxury realm for some shoppers. But it’s a price Bill believes many parents are willing to pay for shoes that actually last. And, based on Primigi’s 2013 sales, it looks like he’s right: The brand’s highest-priced offerings, its girls’ fashion boots and Gore-Tex licensed products, were the bestselling items in the line. (Primigi is the only children’s brand with the Gore-Tex license.) It’s just one reason why he believes 2014 will be the brand’s best in years, a refreshingly optimistic outlook in a retail industry often beset by bad news. But, as the no-nonsense president notes, he has many reasons to be happy: After 15 years of hard work, Primigi’s name has become
THE CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City, March 9 th - 11 th
KIDS SHOW Las Vegas, February 17 - 19 th
Offspring
1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 NY, NY 10018 Mark Zelen: 212-279-4150
Northeast
Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999
Southeast
Paul Daubney 404-577-6840
Caribbean, Latin America & South Florida
Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745
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West Coast
TeresaStephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS
Midwest
Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236
Texas/Southwest
Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446
International
Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008
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“I think younger parents have seen more poor quality than previous generations, so it’s more incumbent on companies like ours to tell our story. It’s more necessary than ever. synonymous with high-quality children’s footwear in the U.S., and the brand’s strong Fall ’13 sell-through suggests even bigger sales this year. Plus, he still has a savvy, supportive partner by his side, for 25 years and counting. Here, he reveals how Primigi has cornered the luxury kids’ footwear market, and how he plans to capitalize on what may be one of the brand’s best years yet. Where is Primigi’s biggest area of distribution? The New York and New Jersey area is our biggest, but we have a really good representation in Los Angeles, Chicago and the middle of the country, too. Of course we’re more focused on major metropolitan areas where a children’s luxury brand would be more likely to have more sales. But I think with some of our prices being fairly moderate and with a lot of the prices on Far East products rising higher and closer to meet ours—but without the quality—we have a chance to expand our reach even more. We’ve noticed that many children’s apparel stores are increasing their shoe selection. Have you seen that? Definitely. That’s been growing for us even during the recession, for the last five or six years. And we’ve done really well in some of them, who have become really good partners. They’re knowledgeable, but they want to learn more about us, because they want to have good add-ons in their store. What do you think is the biggest challenge for independent retailers right now? I think it’s just a matter of regaining confidence. I think the good independents we deal with are trying really hard. A lot of them are really innovative and have upped their game in the face of the challenges around them. I love our online partners, and they are certainly smart and fast and adapt quickly, but with some of our product, I think feeling it and touching it is so important. I don’t think the brick-and-mortar experience is going to go away. I’m just not a believer in that. I know some people are, but I think there’s still room for brick-and-mortar stores. And I think the ones that have taken up the challenge are doing a really good job. During the recession, Primigi USA launched a lower-priced line.
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How has it fared? It’s not a huge part of our offering, but we’ve done really well with it. The line was launched in response to the fact that the global economy hasn’t been great for the past couple of years in any business, and a lot of people have been out of work and struggling. We realize that some of our price points aren’t for everybody, so we’ve tried to take some of the hallmarks of our upper-end line and extend them to a nicely-made, moderatelypriced line, and we’re really very happy with it. The price point is a little bit higher than some of the other stuff in the market made in the Far East and Asia, but it’s also better quality. Customers can count on it; it’s not going to fall apart, and it’s going to be something they’re happy to own. So Primigi managed to stay one step ahead of the rocky economy. We never really lost our footing. We know what our identity is and what our product represents. In the deepest throes of the recession, it was hard to sell. People just weren’t buying two pairs any more. They weren’t buying as freely in any business. But we didn’t change much about Primigi because we didn’t think that a lot needed changing.
Do you see more customers coming back to Primigi as a result? I never saw them leave. The market simply wasn’t as maniacal as it was in the past. But you see that across the board—people are just more careful, no matter if they are buying for their children or themselves. I definitely didn’t see Primigi customers leave for lesser brands. They just didn’t buy as much as they did in the past, and thought a little bit more carefully about their purchases. All you have to do is watch the news to see things haven’t been easy, not only here but also in Europe. Globally, business hasn’t been great, and that’s definitely a fact. Other than a few trends and a few items, generally it has been a tough stretch for many companies, especially with unemployment remaining so high. But that also means shoppers want quality. You learn [to appreciate quality] pretty quickly when you pay $15 less for children’s shoes and they only last a couple of months and don’t look good after a couple of weeks. Especially when you look at a brand like Primigi, and the shoes still look new six months later. They hold their shape and they don’t wear out easily. We hear that over and over again from our customers, and that certainly sticks in people’s minds when they’re making their buying decisions. We’re definitely seeing an uptick in business that we’re very happy about.
It seems like shoppers are seeking a return to quality products. I think so. I think that mindset comes back when the economy is better, and for a lot of people it never leaves. Conversely, there will always be people who can afford a better price point but they still have the mindset of quantity over quality. And then there are people who find it hard to think about paying money for extras when the economy is really bad. We definitely keep that in mind—we don’t try to be all things to all people. We just try to offer really good value for the money and let our product be a strong part of our advertising campaign.
Do you think there’s still a strong middle market looking for luxury products? You hear a lot about how there’s no middle anymore. But quite honestly if that’s really true, the entire country is in trouble. We all need the middle class to come back—many in that market are worried that even if they still have their jobs, they might be next [to get laid off ]. We need consumer sentiment to become a little stronger to really have meaningful growth. I’m hoping from what we’ve seen that that’s going to play out in 2014. And I think it will. Even for our independent merchants, with slightly lower price points, their sell-outs were really strong in 2013. There certainly is a middle class left in the U.S., and they need some help. If it’s just the very rich, very high-end and the mass-market, very low price—I don’t care what business you’re in, that Original Designs • Beautifully Crafted Gorgeous Fabrics mindset is dangerous. And it’s certainly not the way Ultra-Soft, High Quality Velour • Hand-Knitted Clothing we’re thinking. We’re thinking that people love our Distinctive Packaging product, and they’re passionate about it, and we’ve done pretty well even during a tough recession.
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Exclusive North American distributor of
What’s your secret to survival? Over the years I’ve seen a lot of my competitors disappear from the American market, and I think in some respects that’s helped. But I think a lot of them disappeared because they changed their focus. They shipped their production to the Far East and made the product much, much cheaper. And people look at that and say, ‘Hey, this brand name doesn’t fit with this price point.’ You can’t fool people for a long time. We’ve definitely tried to make some moderately priced offerings, and we think people have been really happy with them, but oddly enough our best sell-throughs this season were with our higherpriced fashion boots for girls from ages 6 to 12, and our Gore-Tex boots, our most expensive products. Categorically it was some of the bestselling product in our line. That gives me hope for the near future. There also seems to be a bit of a growing backlash against products produced in China. Quite honestly, I think there has been a backlash against a lot of product on the market. A lot of our merchants and a lot of our customers tell us there
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And rising manufacturing costs have increased prices on those products, too. Exactly. And if someone gets something that’s really poor quality and they pay a lot more than they’re used to paying for it, there will certainly be a backlash. We work really hard to turn out a really good product. So when I see stuff on the market that’s pretty close to our price, and those shoes are plastic and almost unwearable in my opinion, I think it’s crazy of us not to point out the difference. It’s one thing when the price is really low for a pair of throw-away shoes, when a pair is half the price of Primigi. But when it’s 75 or 80 percent of the price of a pair of Primigis, and it doesn’t last, that’s when it’s a problem. And that’s why a lot of people are loyal to our brand. It’s hard to instill loyalty with a throw-away product. Do you think your customers appreciate that difference? Absolutely. And that’s where our growth will come from: people who understand quality and understand how much effort we put into our shoes. Our Gore-Tex products and our fashion boots are some of the best shoes you can buy for children. You can’t get better shoes. Do you think today’s parents, particularly Millienials, understand the importance of quality? I think it’s more of an educational process. I think that some of them do. It’s kind of a sweeping generalization, but I think younger parents have seen more poor quality than previous generations, so it’s more incumbent on companies like ours to tell our story. It’s more necessary than ever. No matter who you are, you get sick of poor quality after a while, so in addition to turning out good product, I think that education is a huge part of our responsibility. Would you say that is one of your biggest challenges? It’s a challenge, for sure, to get our message out and convey it to a younger population that has more choices than ever before. It’s a challenge to get people to understand quality, and that it’s not just about what a product looks like, it’s also about what it feels like and how long it lasts. But the biggest challenge of all is that we’re going to need some outside help. Along with everyone who runs a newspaper or restaurant or shoe store, we’re going to need the economy to improve a little bit, and for there to be a little bit better news on television. To me, that’s the biggest challenge, because it’s kind of been this endless cycle of bad news about how we’re in two wars, and unemployment is high and the politicians don’t get along and don’t speak to each other. I would say that’s what I’ve seen change the most in the past four or five years; it’s not that one part of the business has replaced another, it’s that good news is in short supply. We’re going to need a little good news and for people to be a little more positive. Speaking of good news, it looks like 2014 will be a good year for Primigi. I think we’re definitely seeing some good signs this season. Our prebook so far for fall looks good—we’re up already with some of our key accounts, including online, department stores and independents, particularly because we’ve already had our samples for three weeks now, ahead of most of our competition. It’s a very good indicator for the season.
And the frigid weather must help sell those winter boots! Yes, it certainly helps when people are thinking about how cold it is this winter when they’re starting to look at fall shoes again. Also, the sellthrough for Primigi last fall and winter was quite good, especially for our fashion boots and our Gore-Tex boots, and it’s fresh in retailers’ minds that we have really good sell-throughs. And that’s something that hasn’t been common in the business for the last couple of years. I think 2014 is going to be the best year for us in many years. And I hope it is for the rest of the market, too. ‘A rising tide lifts all ships’ is an expression that certainly pertains to the shoe business. In that case, do you think increased competition from luxury brands like Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren is a good thing? Those are great names, and I do think that is a good thing because it brings more awareness to the category. But I’ve seen a lot of big names come in and not turn out the best product, and that’s where the history of our company really means something. We’re an Italian company, and it’s well known that Italians are passionate about footwear—I truly believe the Italians and Europeans are a little bit ahead of us in that respect. I have only seen a small handful of companies turn out the same quality year in and year out that we do. That’s why Primigi has been a leader in the Italian market for 40 years, and why we have such a strong name in the U.S. You’ve worked together with your wife Gina for 15 years. What’s your recipe for success? We complement each other, and we really enjoy being together. And she’s razor sharp. There’s no one else I’d rather have next to me to go through the day with. But everyone always asks us, ‘How do you sit next to each other all day?’ It does get loud once in a while—we are Italian. [Laughs.] •
March 8-10 2014
New York, USA
The international children's trade show
120ds!
bran
illustration Postics
are a lot of plastic shoes out there. They aren’t good quality, and they hurt the child’s feet and fall apart easily, and that’s the antithesis of what we’re about. I’d be lying to you if I said there weren’t people who walk into our booth and say, ‘Where is it made?’ There’s definitely good product made in the Far East, but by and large that’s not the rule. It’s the exception.
Pre-register now on www.PlAYtimeNewYork.com organization Picaflor Inc e-mail contact@playtimenewyork.com tel +1 212 563 7301
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B贸boli geometric print sweater, spotted button-down shirt and pants, crown by Siaomimi Play, Lacoste hi-top sneaker, lime green Tsukohoshi sneaker. Opposite page: KidCuteTure bubble dress and leggings, Etiquette socks, Pazitos leopard print combat boots.
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HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SABRINA ROWE FOR NEXT ARTISTS.
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Imoga vest, sweater and leggings, See Kai Run oxfords with elastic laces. Opposite page, clockwise from center: Kensie Girl flat with studded gold heel, crystal-embellished sneaker by Enzo, Nina bow-accented slip-on, Chooze glitter Mary Jane, moccasin by Minnetonka, Vivobarefoot sneaker with Velcro closures, glittery Mary Jane by Madie Jane, glitter-embellished flat by Isaac Mizrahi.
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From left: Sperry Top-Sider boat shoe, sneaker by Camper, Lacoste hi-top, Cole Haan desert boot, B贸boli sweater, button-down shirt and pants, Jefferies socks, crown by Siaomimi Play. Opposite page: Frankie & Ava overalls and plaid button-down shirt, See Kai Run multi-color hi-tops.
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The Dragon and The Rabbit gingham button-down shirt, Siaomimi Play mask, Camper hi-top sneaker. Opposite page: Lemon Loves Lime long-sleeve shirt, Livie & Luca cap-toe Mary Jane.
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BEHIND THE SEAMS
Inspired by the Slavic stories she grew up reading, a former model aims to elevate children’s fashion.
Mother Russia
A
S A FORMER model, stylist and assistant at French Vogue, it makes sense that Kasia Pysiak would turn to runway shots and fashion glossies for help designing her very first clothing line, Zaikamoya. But while her high fashion background certainly factored in, the imaginative designer and owner actually relied on classic storybooks for inspiration. “They have an effortless warmth about them,” Pysiak shares. She loves Slavic stories like the tale of “Kolobok,” which features a similar plot to fairy tale favorite, The Gingerbread Man. “When you look for inspiration from other clothes, it’s more direct. Storybooks and paintings allow for more imagination,” she reveals. Zaikamoya, which translates to “my little bunny” in Pysiak’s native Russian language, debuted in Fall ’13 and was quickly picked up by retailers who loved the minimalist aesthetic and clean lines the brand brought to the market. As a mother of a 3-year-old boy, Pysiak decided to make her line primarily unisex to provide fashionable options for little boys, as well. “In America, I noticed kids’ clothes are often very colorful and have a lot of things written on them,” she says. “I concentrate on neutral tones to create essential pieces.” Versatile styles like a quilted jacket have performed well for retailers, appealing to consumers as both a light jacket in the spring and as a layering staple in chillier months, she points out. Since its launch, the line of knit basics has grown to include outerwear, as well as accessories like handmade hats, socks and scarves made of rabbit down and cotton and traditional Russian wool booties with removable rubber covers for outdoor play. For Fall ’14 Pysiak plans on adding more colors and prints, including gingham, to the line. Available in sizes newborn to 8 years, each piece in the collection is made using high quality fabrics like certified organic cotton and wholesales for $12 to $100. Looking to capitalize on the growing gift sections at boutique and specialty stores, Zaikamoya offers a newborn line in special packaging. Matching three-piece sets that include a kimono-tie top, footed pants and cap are packaged in cotton bags printed with the brand’s logo, and white and gray receiving blankets come wrapped in ribbon. Pysiak also aims to accommodate retailers interested in made-in-theU.S.A. items by cutting its production in Turkey to just 50 percent and bringing the rest to New York City. (In the brand’s first year, the line was completely manufactured overseas.) “A lot of retailers who are interested in us only carry made-in-the-U.S.A. products,” says Pysiak. “My goal for the company is to not lose sight of my vision and to eventually bring all production to New York.” –Brittany Leitner
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Outside the Lines
F
ITTINGLY, THE TALE of children’s brand Noé & Zoë reads like something right out of a screenplay: After meeting on a film set in the south of France, and working as costume designers on countless projects together throughout the years, best friends Nici Zinell and Nadine Richter became pregnant at the same time. “Once the children were born, we took a break from costume design and started sewing baby toys and accessories,” says Zinell. “Nadine’s son, Noé, and my daughter Zoë, were born only one month apart, and the idea of starting a kids’ brand began.” Noé & Zoë launched its first collection in Spring ’12 in just a few countries including South Korea, France and Germany, but the Berlinbased line took off when it arrived at Playtime New York that same year. “It was better received abroad than in Germany,” notes Zinell. “It took Germans much longer to discover and appreciate the unique style of Noé & Zoë; they adapt very slowly to new trends.” The brand’s signature look features bright shapes and patterns set against a range of off-white silhouettes—an unusual look in Germany, where pops of color are usually contrasted with black, Zinell shares. A nod to the duo’s theatrical background, costume pieces like cotton beards, eye patches and star headbands and hair bows complement the
Noé & Zoë ropes in kids’ carefree spirit and stamps it on a collection that celebrates playtime.
playful nature of the clothing. “Playing with colors, shapes and patterns is my greatest passion,” says Zinell. She describes the prints as having a “hand drawn” look, with printed polka dots that are colored outside the lines and uneven stripes traced across tops and bottoms, all inspired by the kind of art kids create themselves. “What inspires me most about children is their joy of life. I admire them for being carefree and true to themselves,” Zinell says. The line also offers bedding, as well as clog boots and slip-on clogs with star and stripe prints. Wholesale prices for the apparel range from $7.95 to $52.95, and sizes range from 0 to 8 years. Since its initial launch, the brand’s worldwide distribution has grown to include retailers in 21 countries, and in the U.S., at smaller boutiques like Biscuit Home in Houston, TX, and even fashion meccas like jcrew.com and Barneys. Although fluorescent looks are key for the brand, limited edition collections allow for experimentation with warmer palettes. But Zinell and Richter see no reason to eliminate neon brights, especially since it helps the brand stand out in today’s sea of muted outerwear. For Fall ’13, a beige coat with neon pink trim and star shapes is a big hit, and Zinell hints that Fall ’14 will offer similar looks, divided into three sections: canvas, sweats and basics. “The basics line is very popular with our customers,” she says, adding, “The main idea behind each collection is to create pieces that are wearable, comfortable and have a unique, distinct look.” –B.L. 2 0 1 4 F E B R U A R Y • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 4 3
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Kathryn Wiley fashioned a sling brand into an international presence, helping women in need, one babywearer at a time.
A Sure Sling
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NEW MOTHER never forgets baby’s firsts: the first smile, the first word, the first step. And Kathryn Wiley even remembers the first gift she ever received, a patterned sling for the son she was about to adopt from Kazakhstan. “When I thought about becoming a mother, I knew I wanted to be as close to my son as possible since he was already going to be 9 months old,” she says, adding that babywearing was one of the first things she researched as a new mom. But everything she found on the market was either too matronly or came in cutesy baby prints that didn’t suit her taste. And then she came across Rockin’ Baby. “I loved it. You could carry your baby and feel beautiful at the same time,” she describes. “The slings followed trends and were a great addition to any outfit.” In 2002, Rockin’ Baby was founded by two mothers who wanted to give babywearing a fashionable edge. When the company went up for sale in 2011, Wiley didn’t hesitate to take over the reigns. “I was such a loyal customer of Rockin’ Baby slings,” she shares. “I don’t think I waited a moment before e-mailing
them and inquiring about the sale.” When her dream came true and she became owner, Wiley immediately went to work refreshing the brand’s direction. “The product was proven, and I knew that with the right channels it could have an international presence,” she explains. So she moved the company from Los Angeles to Richmond, VA, and expanded the prints to include both bold and subtle florals, as well as geometric patterns and even thin stripe looks for dad. Deeply inspired by shoe brand Toms and its one-for-one giving campaign where each pair of shoes sold is matched with a donation to a country in need, she began to brainstorm similar ideas for Rockin’ Baby. “Making an impact through business was definitely something I wanted to do,” she says. And then she remembered Haiti. “I had traveled to Haiti several times, but never as a mother,” she says. “When I heard that they often don’t carry their babies and how high the infant mortality rate is, I thought there was something we could do.” She contacted several midwives in the country who were ecstatic about her idea, and the company officially pledged one sling or pouch donated for each one sold. Since 2011, 8,000 slings and pouches have been donated to mothers in need. The slings wholesale for $35 for one-ply carriers to $50 for reversible styles, and Wiley notes a peacock print and a cream, beige and black pattern are consistent bestsellers. “We look to trends we see in women’s accessories and design from there,” she says. All slings are made in Virginia using 100-percent cotton and in Fall ’14 the brand will add doll-size slings and pouches for kids, which will also be a part of the one-for-one giving program. “We are giving in Haiti every day, and this summer we expanded our giving to remote villages in Kenya and Tanzania,” she says. “We couldn’t be more excited.” –B.L.
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Hidden Treasure
Max & Dora stands out at retail with hand-washed vintage trims and whimsical functionality.
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OTHING UPSETS LISA Godown more than an attic full of treasures that never see the light of day. After discovering an old box of handkerchiefs while cleaning out her grandmother’s apartment, she couldn’t bear to let them go on forgotten and turned them into T-shirt dresses. The same occurred when she was given heirloom French napkins she knew wouldn’t be used at the table and repurposed them into pillows. And after meeting a vintage fabric supplier and snapping up pieces that originated in post-WWII Germany and Romania, starting her own vintage-inspired clothing line was pretty much inevitable. “Everyone kept asking when I was going to start selling the things I was making,” Godown says. “Pieces were just collecting in my
office so finally I set a deadline and went to ENK.” And she was met with open arms. The first Spring ’14 collection recently shipped to more than 40 stores in the U.S. after retailers were instantly drawn to the antique look of the brand’s pique and venise lace trims stretching across the necklines and waists of its blouses and dresses. Godown even named the line Max & Dora after her great grandparents, who immigrated to Brooklyn, NY, from Poland in the late 1800s, and ran a grocery store. She never met the intrepid couple, but she loved listening to her grandparents’ stories about them. “I love that history. There’s something about it that makes the name that much more special,” she says. Details like mother-of-pearl buttons and whimsical pieces like a reversible satin and tulle tutu that’s light enough for everyday wear, are kid-tested in Godown’s North Palm Beach, FL, offices. “It’s important that buttons don’t fall off, chip or end up in a child’s mouth,” she says, adding that her experience as a mother of two (now grown) children helps her design from a functional yet fun point of view. “For one of our spring dresses, every kid who put it on immediately started spinning,” she says. Production also takes place in Florida, not only to satisfy Godown’s commitment to give back to the U.S., but also so she can personally ensure the quality of her designs. “I’ve been through every phase of production to make sure everything is just right,” she says of the collection, available in sizes 2T to 10 and wholesaling for $15 to $60. For Fall ’14, Max & Dora plans on adding jersey knit pieces, leggings and long-sleeve shirts that work well with sleeveless jumpers, for year-round versatility. She’s also updating the bestselling tutu by making it available in silver and gold. Though new to the market, Godown has big plans for Max & Dora, including a New York City showroom spot and eventually a boys’ line. Even so, the detail-oriented owner has no intention of letting the brand get too big. “I see it as a growing business,” she says. “But I don’t want to ever oversell to the point where I don’t have control of what’s going on.” –B.L.
Any way you stack it,
Dallas offers more for kids Dallas KidsWorld Market APPAREL. GIFT. ACCESSORIES. TOY.
March 26-29, 2014 Wednesday-Saturday
Dallas Market Center dallasmarketcenter.com 214.744.7444
2 0 1 4 F E B R U A R Y • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 4 5
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MARKETPLACE
www.RuffleButts.com www.RuggedButts.com
T H E FA L L FA S H I O N I S S U E FALL FAVORITES Don’t miss our fashion pages for a timely dose of style inspiration. Backto-school never looked so cool.
array of media platforms, relied on by buyers and manufacturers for the best in children’s fashion and retail news.
EUROPEAN UNION Fresh from the runways at Pitti Bimbo, Playtime Paris and more, we highlight the latest trends for Fall ’14.
A STEP ABOVE Advertise in Earnshaw’s and place your brand message in front of 15,000 childrenswear buyers and professionals. Brand impression is everything today, and we can make sure your message remains top of mind within the industry.
SO MUCH MORE… Inspirational and insightful, Earnshaw’s magazine has been the go-to resource for children’s apparel retailers for the past 97 years. With thousands of followers on Facebook and Twitter, in addition to its awardwinning print publication, Earnshaw’s is an industry leader across a diverse
Ad Close: 2/11 Materials Close: 2/14 Bonus distribution: ENK Children’s Club, Playtime New York, LA Kids Market, Atlanta Gift & Home Market, Dallas Gift & Home, KIDShow Miami, regional trade marts, NYC showrooms, earnshaws.com
Contact: Noelle Heffernan (646) 278-1531 noelle.heffernan@9threads.com for advertising rates, sponsorships and custom publication opportunities.
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PHOTOGRAPH BY KATRINA TANG
NAP TIME More brands are branching into the sleepwear category. Should you?
1/21/14 6:00 PM
MARKETPLACE
Join Earnshaw’s Marketplace Earnshaw's Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies. Tout your up-and-coming apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources. Call (646) 278-1510 Alexandra.Marinacci@9threads.com
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stargazing
What the A-list love at… Maison 24,
Vintage-inspired toy cars from Playforever are a hit with kids and dads alike, says Julius. We wouldn’t be surprised if the model Scott Disick bought for his son, Mason, was really for himself.
Bridgehampton and New York, NY Non-traditional is an understatement at this trendsetting treasure chest. By Lyndsay McGregor
When word got out that Beyoncé bought Blue Ivy’s Nursery Works Lucite crib at Maison 24, expectant mothers flocked to the store to follow suit.
W Canadian crooner and new dad Michael Bublé recently declared his love for Mustachifier on Steve Harvey’s talk show. Julius says the mustache pacifiers make great novelty gifts.
hen the brother-sister duo of Louis Marra and Allison Julius opened Maison 24 in Bridgehampton, NY, in 2008, the kitschy-cool shop quickly garnered a loyal following, drawing both well-heeled travelers and a crush of famous faces. Three years later, New York City got its own outpost. Boasting a cherry-picked selection of the siblings’ favorite things, the luxury lifestyle-oriented store specializes in whimsical furniture, art, gifts and accessories. (There’s even a category on the store’s website called “Life’s Un-necessities.”) “We bring in things that we are thrilled to have on our shelves and share with our customers in a really positive way,” Julius says. An eclectic selection of children’s items adds to the store’s wacky charm. Prices range from $1.95 for a pack of Hello Kitty tissues to $100 for a hand-knit Miffy doll to $3,500 for the Nursery Works Lucite crib that caught Beyoncé’s eye. “We get a nice amount of celebrity traffic, which is always fun,” shares Julius, adding that Katy Perry and Jimmy Fallon are regulars. Spanning Keith Haring magnet sets to Urban Sunday neckties emblazoned with tiny skulls to Brinca Dada’s contemporary dollhouses, the store’s aesthetic caters to customers in search of downtown cool. Julius reveals that Hello Kitty in particular is as popular with parents as it is with her younger clientele. “Adults love the nostalgia and enduring universal symbol of the brand,” she says, noting that the iconic character decorates many surfaces in her own home. “Because if you can’t stand behind what you’re offering to your customers and be excited about it, then what’s the point?” she laughs. •
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Jona Michelle New York Buzz Dannenfelser (212)695-5151 Los Angeles Teresa Stephen (213)623-8155 Dallas Greg Morgan (214)643-0100 Philadelphia Martin Arnold (609)471-6189 Seattle Carrie Martin (253)851-1418 Atlanta Paul Daubney (404)577-6840 Chicago Robert Centen & Associates (312)464-0999 Miami Miriam Devesa (305)261-5374
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THE CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City, & March 9th–11th
KIDS SHOW
Las Vegas, February 17th–19th Little Me
1385 Broadway Suite 1800, NY, NY 10018 Mark Zelen: 212-279-4150
Northeast
Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999
Southeast
Paul Daubney 404-577-6840
Caribbean, Latin America & South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745
West Coast
TeresaStephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS
Midwest
Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236
Texas/Southwest
Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446
International
Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008
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