SUPERIOR ONLINE December 2012 by Superior Magazine

Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography â&#x20AC;˘ www.superior-mag.com

# DECEMBER 2012

ONLINE

December 2012

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Fall / Winter 2013/14

InternatIonal FashIon trade show

December 2012

JANUARY 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17, 2013

StAtioN-BeRliN luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com -5-

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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PUBLISHER

SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin

CHIEF EDITOR V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com FASHION DIRECTOR Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com ART DIRECTOR Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT editor@superior-mag.com ADVERTISING advertising@superior-mag.com PR MANAGEMENT press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

CONTRIBUTORS Alexander LeKing, Charlotte Bibby, Florence Leung, Frank Grimm, Greg Adamski, Julian Niznik, Marco Castellani, Renèe Liszkai, Will Sterling

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#â&#x20AC;&#x192; Editorial Dear readers, These days, many people look back on the past year and what will happen in the coming year 2013. So did we. For us 2012 was really successful. SUPERIOR ONLINE got tens of thousands readers worldwide and each issue we receive more and more editorial submissions. As a culmination of this year, we ask our readers to choose the cover of the year. For 2013 we will continue growing with SUPERIOR ONLINE. For our BLOG we are looking for more guest bloggers from all around the world. And last but not least in spring we will come out with our next print issue SUPERIOR EDITION.

At the end of the and filmmaker who who like SUPERIOR SUPERIOR team for

year we thank all photographers submitted to us, all our readers Magazine and of course the whole their work.

And we wish all of you a happy and prosperous 2013. Tom & Marc

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ONLINE

Issue December 2012

Editorial & Imprint -12-

Selection

Preview on Fashion Week Berlin A/W 2013

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Editorial

Julian Niznik »Gender Sense« -28-

Alexander LeKing »Celeste« -42-

Charlotte Bibby »Sam« -52-

Will Sterling »The green room« -60-

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December 2012

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Frank Grimm »la garçon de palais de tokyo« -74-

Greg Adamski »LUSTRE« -88-

Marco Castellani & Renèe Liszkai »together gainst us« -110-

Florence Leung »The Visitor« -122-

Talk

GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN -68-

PREMIUM X - 10TH ANNIVERSARY -102-

Brands -132-16-

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#sElEction in dEcEmbEr pREVIEW ON FASHION WEEK BERlIN A/W 2013

aIkyou GrEEn fashIon unDErwEar AIKYOU means charm, love and respect - in Japanese. But the idea was born in Germany: underwear, tailored to the needs of women who know exactly what they want. Who prefer a natural, un-pushed look. And who value clarity, especially when it comes to what they wear directly on their skin. The result is Green Fashion Underwear: puristic, stylish and sustainable. Skinfriendly, made from Fairtrade organic cotton and using ecologically safe production methods according to the latest sustainability standards. The collection is puristic and stylish. Its clear, confident lines are inspired by bikini styles. It avoids anything superfluous like supporting, constricting underwires or side stays. No fastening hooks rub on the spine. Since the bras do not have to give push-up support, they can be simple and delicate, employing exquisite straps and accessories. With matching tops and sexy panties riding low on the hip, AIKYOU is fashion you will want to wear on all occasions: during the day, in the evening or for wellness sports like Yoga and Pilates. www.aikyou.de | view at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin

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December 2012

aluc ALUC's eco-friendly commitment begins with the design. All their shirts and blouses have a detachable collar that gives you the opportunity of changing your style, while reducing the amount of clothes in your wardrobe. The young team decided to use only industrial left-over materials like end-of-roll or colourchart fabrics. Up-cycling is the new word for design products which are made out of unused but still valuable material! The amount of each fabric is restricted, so you will find only limited editions! The high quality cotton fabric comes from Austria, the shirts are sewn in a sheltered workshop in Germany and in a fair up-cycling production in Bulgaria. Through up-cycling ALUC is fighting against a big huge environmental problem: Industrial overproduction. Even a small quantity of left-over fabric signify a great opportunity to design original, unique pieces. Why producing brand new fabric, when a huge amount ends up in landfills every day? ALUC works with the awareness that every limit is an opportunity for a good change. www.aluc.eu | view at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin

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mIlDE Christiane Milde created MILDE in 2011 and since then follows her vision of creating beautiful and simple feminine looks with high quality organic fabrics. MILDE transfers the green revolution into aesthetically progressive ideas and beautifully simple looks. The Berlin-based label is part of the new Eco Fashion Generation and enhances the beginning of a new era, in which the fashion world embraces a new spirit. MILDE is the connection of high-quality materials, fair workingconditions and beautifully feminine shapes. With the autumn/winter 2013/14 collection "Rooted" MILDE steps into the space between tradition and innovation. Historically based patterns like capes from the 19th century, draped skirts and silky blouses come in a young and fresh way. The colours as well as the materials refers to the theme whilst using dark blue, black and mauve and by using rhubarb tanned leather. www.milde-berlin.com | view at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin

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luxaa Operating to the compelling Concept Material Vision Into Fashion LUXXA is a vanguard symbiosis of sophisticated fashion and innovative materials. Diverse progressive areas like technology, research and design inspire all collections. Our primary focus of work is the reinterpretation of functional materials from a variety of sources by traditional processing technologies. The heart of the collection always is a certain geo-textile: Tyvek. As knitting or membrane fabric it is an innovation in visual as well as in fashionable manner. The lightness and softness of Tyvek creates a remarkable wearability. Two facts open up completely new opportunities in the fashion community: Tyvek's extraordinary washability without causing any pilling or felting up to 90째C and it's 100 percent recyclability. The Collection of F/W 2013/14 consists of elegant dresses, luxury tops and timeless skirts in high quality processing made in Germany. It leads to a series of accessories like graceful fashion-jewellery and classy bags, which are made with love to every single detail. www.luxaa.de | view at GREENshowroom

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ann toussaInt orGanIcs collEctIon rEnaIssancE Ann Toussaint's collection is inspired by the renaissance with its sense of newly gained freedom, including the slitting of clothes or setting of pleats. A renaissance of an ethical moral society. This mirrors our objective: a collection which exclusively uses organically certified materials produced under “ fair trade” conditions in Europe. The designer Annette Lutz studied at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna in Vivienne Westwood ‘s class and her work with Azzedine Alaia lead to her love of cuts! www.ann-toussaint.com | view at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin

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atElIEr laurE paschouD fashIon DEsIGn conscIously maDE ATELIER LAURE PASCHOUD is committed to creating innovative collections in a transparent way. Each piece is made to last, in time, in style as well as through the quality of its fabric and production. Our goal is to produce socially and environmentally responsible clothing. The fabrics are certified organic, recycled and/or from Swiss manufacturers. The clothes are made in Bosnia, in a structure ensuring respectful and fair working conditions. The production workshop, run by a Swiss-Bosnian family, is involved in an effort to rehabilitate Bosnia and ensure the sustainability of local knowledge. The design is created in Switzerland, Laure Paschoudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s country of origin.

Laure Paschoud studied at Central Saint Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s College in London. After graduating in 2005, she continued her training in Paris and Japan. Back in Switzerland she launched her own brand in 2010. Her creations communicate her vision of fashion: beautiful and useful, sustainable and consciously made. For Laure Paschoud, fashion is a useful and universal art. Each outfit becomes unique, depending on who wears it. She enjoys working with volumes. Her clothes suggest the body, hinting at the figure. Each collection is also an opportunity to collaborate with like-minded artists committed to sustainable fashion. www.atelier-laurepaschoud.ch | view at GREENshowroom -23-

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cocccon For a fashion conscious Eco-Gen-Next, ethical business model COCCCON UG launched Ultra-Luxe Fashion Collection from sustainable materials. Harmony with nature and respect for life-cycle of silkworms is the base of COCCCON's biological and non-violent cultivation of silk. COCCCON is based in Jharkhand, one of the poorest states in India, where the local tribal communities are participating with their craftsmanship to create an economic perspective for themself.

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The new COCCCON collection by Indian fashion designer Prakash is inspired by the kaleidoscopic colours and the artistic & trendy prints of Jharkhand Tribal Handicraft. www.cocccon.de | view at GREENshowroom

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EDELZIEGE EDELZIEGE is a young label with direct roots in Mongolia – home to the most valuable natural product, Cashmere wool. The breathtaking landscapes of almost infinite expanse, the extreme climate and ancient traditions – and Cashmere. All of these converged into the background melody of Saruul Fischer’s childhood, the owner of EDELZIEGE. With this natural product she builds bridges between her Mongolian home country and her home of choice, Germany. The fashion of EDELZIEGE stands for sophisticated details in design and premium natural material. To take on responsibility for the society and environment, EDELZIEGE insists on

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sustainability of the chosen resources and an intentional dissociation from mass manufacturing. We manage to combine Ethics and style through truthful commitment to the natural materials and on-site production in Mongolia. Every single collection will always remain exclusively produced from 100% cashmere wool. Cashmere is renewable and harvested from animals living in the wild in Mongolia From classy and elegant to cool and stylish, Cashmere clothing and accessories guarantee a luxurious and special fashion experience. www.edelziege.de | view at GREENshowroom

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photography by julian niznik production madeleine abeltshauser hair & make-up by janina zais digital assistant liza kei post production retouched models hilda dias pimentel @ m4 stefan pollmann @ modelwerk

special thanks to STUDIO 28 by katja memminger wwww.frontlineshop.com

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CeLeste photography by alExanDEr lekInG celebrity cElEstE thorson creative director yZZsabElla coath styling by alyssa chrEncIk hair by jEffrEy jaGGED make-up by patrIck EIchlEr @ makE up for EvEr styling assistant mIchaEl walronD location los anGElEs, ca usa

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December September2012 2012

THE NEW SUPERIOR BLOG discover the superior world of fashion & film connected to fashion

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grEEnshowroom & Ethical fashion show bErlin intErviEw with magdalEna schaffrin Two events stand for eco and fair trade fashion at Berlin Fashion Week - GREENshowroom & Ethical Fashion Show Berlin. The GREENshowroom presents sustainable high-end fashion, accessories, beauty and lifestyle products at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski. The unconventional slow-fair concept links the notion of sustainability with features such as design, luxury and zeitgeist. In the stylish setting, interested trade visitors can experience the new collections from the exhibiting brands. The glamorous Salonshow is the highlight of the trade fair. Green, fair, urban and contemporary - the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin is a trade fair for innovative, sustainable streetwear and casualwear at ewerk. At the success-proven event location, international labels will present their current collections to trade visitors. Knowledge Lounge and panel discussion amplifies the exhibition programme.

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# Magdalena, your GREENshowroom was the first Green & Ethical Trade Fair in Germany. With which expectations did you start at that time? And did they come true? GREENshowroom has been founded by Jana Keller and me in 2009 and honestly, we did not have lots of expectations, but a strong feeling about the importance and potential of sustainable high-fashion. We were quite overwhelmed by the very positive and international reactions on our trade fair concept, bringing together design, fashion and sustainability. By now, I think we've gone through good developments and the topic of sustainable fashion gained relevance, which is one part we are working on. # What were the most important steps forward Green & Ethical Fashion made since that time? Would you say that Green & Ethical Fashion is already established? Partly. By now it is very fashionable to follow a green lifestyle, which is good and the first step. But the big shift has not been made yet. We see a lot of diverse and interesting concepts, lots of new brands and also bigger players implementing sustainability in their company's strategy. By now about 50 stores sell ethical/green fashion in Germany, this number has to increase to really give people an alternative to shop.

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Photo: Andreas Strauss

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# Last year, Messe Frankfurt bought GREENshowroom and established Ethical Fashion Show Berlin beginning this year. How important was it for you to become part of one of the world's largest Trade Fair Organizations? Since Messe Frankfurt is one of the largest trade fair organizations, they have a lot more power to move things and they are active in more or less the whole world, which is interesting regarding internationalization. I think, it is a foresighted step from Messe Frankfurt to engage in green/ethical fashion. With establishing Ethical Fashion Show Berlin as a second trade fair, Berlin is now becoming the center of sustainable fashion in Europe. # How successful was 2012 for both GREENshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin? We are satisfied with 2012 and looking forward to 2013. If both trade fairs develop as they did in 2012 we can be very satisfied.

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# What can we expect from the up-coming Trade Fairs in January? Are there any news things we can expect at GREENshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin? With about 80 brands both trade fairs are showing more sustainable brands than in any other city in Europe and with being in Berlin for the seventh edition GREENshowroom has become a fixed part of Berlin Fashion Week. About half our exhibitors are international brands and we have some exciting new brands on both trade fairs, such as Globe Hope or Elsien Gringhuis, which has just won the Fair Luxury Award and the Green Fashion Competition. In our fringe program important topics such as recycling/up-cycling, working conditions in the textile industry, and special ecological fibres will be discussed and reflected in the presented collections by our exhibitors.

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# What are your wishes for Green & Ethical Fashion in 2013? I wish green fashion to strengthen and grow in acceptance.

www.green-showroom.net www.ethicalfashionshowberlin.com

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la garçon de palais de tokyo photography by frank GrImm styling by tanja bEckEr grooming by bErt kIEtZErow @ lIGanorD using paul mItchEll model barthElEmy survIllE @ sucEss moDEls post production by www.ElEktronIschE-schÖnhEIt.DE

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lustre photography by greg adamski styling by Zuza Sowinska-Bania make-up & hairby Sławek Oszajca set design by Zuza Sowinska-Bania i Sławek Oszajca model Polina @Mango Models All clothes are from designer Agnieszka Maciejak

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PREMIUM

- 10TH ANNIVERSARY

Interview with Anita and Norbert Tillmann The PREMIUM Fashion Trade Show is turning 10, and taking the occasion to reflect back on a thrilling, decade-long success story. To PREMIUM founders Anita Tillmann and Norbert Tillmann goes the credit for reinventing the fashion trade show concept and transforming Berlin once more into a fashion hotspot. In 2003, the pair launched their revolutionary concept in the spectacular setting of the U3 underground tunnel beneath Potsdamer Platz, where they unified the various branches of the industry into a one-of-a-kind lifestyle trade show. Ten years later, PREMIUM stands as a leading example in the high fashion industry. For 10 years, Anita Tillmann and Norbert Tillman have made visionary lifestyle their benchmark and Berlin’s future as a fashion capital their cause — and they’ll continue doing so for at least another ten.

Photo: PREMIUM U3 Tunnel, 2003

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Photo: PREMIUM Juli 2012

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# Anita and Norbert, PREMIUM is one of the pioneers of Berlin Fashion Week. How did you experience the transformation of the fashion city Berlin for the past 10 years? Though Berlin, in comparison to other fashion cities like New York, Paris or Milan, is still breaking in its fashion identity, it nonetheless sits solidly on the schedule of every buyer. Berlin is a one-of-a-kind place — always on the move, young, dynamic, and a paradise for creativity. Berlin offers more diverse events than anywhere else in the world. In addition to catwalk shows, three major trade shows are now held here, plus numerous smaller events and showrooms. Until now, this remains unparalleled anywhere else. From the beginning, my business partner Norbert Tillmann and I have always had the big picture in mind, and have been working for 10 years to establish Berlin as a fashion city for the long-term future. Within a few years, the city has turned into a worldrenowned fashion metropolis. Nowadays, Berlin creates trends, is always one step ahead, and brings together fashion, lifestyle, art and music, the established and the innovative. As delightfully as nowhere else. # How did PREMIUM start 10 years ago? What were your expectations at that time? The first PREMIUM was held in January 2003 in the legendary U-Bahn Tunnel beneath Potsdamer Platz, featuring a total of 70 brands. The PREMIUM concept revolutionized the trade show concept of that time. We were the first to bring together all the various fashion segments—womenswear, menswear, denim, sportswear, accessories and shoes—under one roof. Previously, all these would have been exhibited separately. Our motto, then and now, has always been

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“quality over quantity,” achieved through diligent, consistent curation. We were also one of the first to put limits on participants’ exhibition space, as well as standardizing stand design in order to keep the focus on the collections. Our concept’s objective is to present the industry with the best collections from around the world, in every segment, every season. At the beginning, we were laughed off for this, and also for holding our trade show early in the season. Today, that’s all history. PREMIUM is the only trade show in the world in the premium segment that brings together the fashion and lifestyle sectors on this scale and level of quality. In the coming season, we will be presenting some 900 international brands and more than 1,400 collections. PREMIUM is a service platform and international marketplace that unites creativity, passion, and professionalism and provides the industry with added value. We have come a long way.

# Are there any things you would change if you would start again? No. Every stumbling block, every mistake and every hurdle was a fundamental learning experience. In hindsight, I would say that most of our mistakes had to do with the fact that we were ahead of our time. As a basic principle, we are continuously working toward optimizing all PREMIUM events, redeveloping and improving what we do, and adapting to market conditions. # Coming from the past to the future. What can we expect fo r the anniversary season in January?

For our 10th anniversary, we are presenting our best brand portfolio ever. There will be diverse new showrooms on the STATION-Berlin premises, at which international brands like Band of Outsiders, James Perse, Dondup, Duvetica, Ugg Australia and Antonia Zander will be tak# Looking back at the past 10 years, how would ing in orders. In addition, the Atelier now has a you describe the development of your trade new concept: The Essence of PREMIUM, featurshow? ing brands that marry design, handwork, authenticity, and glamour and that have been with PREThings could not have gone any better. Berlin MIUM since our start at Tunnel. The Essence of offers plenty of space for creativity and we want- PREMIUM will present special collection highed to play an active role in the long-term devel- lights from the last 10 years from brands like opment and growth of the city. Looking back, the Giorgio Brato, Mykita, HTC, and Robert Collina, most difficult step was to get the industry ful- amongst others, and all the designers themly on board with this, to raise awareness that selves will also be present. Furthermore, togethBerlin indeed has the potential to be a relevant er with our partners, we have created a PREMIfashion city for the long term. UM 10th Anniversary Special Edition Collection,

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Photo: PREMIUM Juli 2012

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featuring limited edition products. The collection includes pieces from adidas SLVR by Dirk Schönberger, B.Belt, Becksondergaard Cph, Duvetica, Elfcraft, Falke, Burlington, Bellerose Gabriele Frantzen, Johnstons Cashmere, Liebeskind Berlin, Montgomery, RPL Maison, Vain Luxuries, Warm-Me, Scarosso and Zoe Karssen. Each is a well-known brand with a philosophy and quality and design standards that have made it an essential part of the PREMIUM concept. The items will be available in limited quantities in F95 The Fashion Store, and 100% of the proceeds will go to charity projects we have selected in conjunction with donation platform betterplace. org.. # Looking a little bit further. What should be done to make the upcoming 10 years as successful as the past 10 years? We have set the bar high for ourselves, and in the future, we will continue to meet all the highest demands of the industry. In coming years, we will continue to further invest in and optimize PREMIUM, not only in Berlin, but also in Düsseldorf and Munich, with the goal of providing the industry with the best possible conditions for ordering. In addition, we will continue to work at strengthening Berlin’s status as a fashion city. There is still plenty to be done.

www.premiumexhibitions.com

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Photo: PREMIUM Juli 2012

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he wears: jacket stEfano lo muzio shirt paolo gEnnari she wears: coat chicca lualdi bEEquEEn

together against us photography by Marco Castellani & Renèe Liszkai styling by Giulia Meterangelis make-up & hair by Carolina Albertini models Dominika Sofroniciova @ Woman Management Milano Joachim Gram @ Independent Men Milano

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he wears: coat Gazzarrini trousers Gazzarrinii turtleneck Kaos she wears: jacket Vittoria Romano t r o u s e r s S i l v i o Be t t e r e l l i b a g Ge d e b e

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he wears: jacket stEfano lo muzio trousers Jil sandEr she wears: fur cristina miraldi turtleneck kaos trousers valEntino vintagE gloves coliac

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he wears: coat Gazzarrini trousers Gazzarrini turtlenneck kaos bag Bruno Bordese shoes Bruno Bordese she wears: coat Tara Jarmon shoes Albano sunglasses Cycle

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he wears: jacket stEfano lo muzio trousers Jil sandEr turtleneck kaos

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he wears: jacket Stefano Lo Muzio trousers jil sander turtleneck kaos shoes Bruno Bordese she wears: j a c k e t CO | T E fur Cycle s h i r t C o m m e De s G a r c o n s trousers Misuraca -119s h o e s S t e p h e n Ve n e z i a

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she wears: coat Mariella Rosati

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THE VISITOR

photography by styling by models

channInG @ nExt moDEls canaDa

make-up by hair by

florEncE lEunG

clauDIa Da pontE jEnna kuchEra @ nobasura artIst manaGEmEnt

Dylan raInE

styling assistant

lEslI storIEr

photographer assistant location

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December 2012

bandeau American Apparel b o l e r o B o l e r o b y UNLOKK b y E a s o n W a n g belt stylist´s own

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bolero

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unlokk by Eason wang

December 2012

d r e s s N a n c y Pe r r e a u l t bottom dress American Apparel c a p e UNLOKK b y E a s o n W a n g s h o e s Be t s e y J o h n s o n necklace h&m

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bandeau amErican apparEl bolero unlokk by Eason wang shoes sam EdElman belt stylistÂ´s own

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December 2012

bandeau American Apparel b o l e r o UNLOKK b y E a s o n W a n g

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bandeau amErican apparEl bolero unlokk by Eason wang shoes sam EdElman belt stylistÂ´s own

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December 2012

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d r e s s N a n c y Pe r r e a u l t bottom dress American Apparel c a p e UNLOKK b y E a s o n W a n g s h o e s Be t s e y J o h n s o n necklace h&m

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bolero

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unlokk by Eason wang

December 2012

d r e s s BCBGM a x A z r i a shoes Lisa for Donald J Pliner beaded necklace h&m necklace Ribbon & Asher

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online

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December 2012

H&M Han Kjøbenhavn Henrik Vibskov Hermès Jil Sander Karl Lagerfeld LUXAA Mariella Rosati Mike Vensel MILDE Misuraca Nancy Perreault Nasty Pig New Era Nike NINH Collection

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Paolo Gennari Paul Smith Pierre Hardy Q by Pasquale Rachel Zoe Collection Raf Simons Reebok Sam Edelman Silvio Betterelli Stefano Lo Muzio Stephen Venezia Tara Jarmon unlokk Valentino Vittoria Romano Wolford Wrangler Zara

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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography â&#x20AC;˘ www.superior-mag.com

December 2012

snow Glow

# January 2013

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