DANSK Daily Thursday August12th by Jacob Petersen

proud sponsor of

Valerie Steele, Voice of Fashion

Cover Photo, BZR, by Anders von Greffelstejn

Copenhagen Fashion Week

Max Factor Look of the Day: Moonspoon Gloom

thursday. 12.08.10. SS11

Spon Diogo Sharpens Its teeth

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shows: Spon Diogo, Frost Birgens, cph visions

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 2 –

Copenhagen Dreaming Publishers DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week Editor-in-chief Chris Pedersen Editor / Project Coordinator Rozanna Fritz Project Coordinator Jens Løkke Subeditor Magnus Jorem Executive Editor: Anne Christine Persson Art Direction / Graphic Design Applied Projects / applied.dk Rune Høgsberg & Michael Mandrup Project Assistant: Michaela Skovgaard Sales Representative: Jens Løkke Writers: Elsebeth Mouritzen Mikkel Hyldebrandt Moussa Mchangama Rikke Dyrholm Susanne Madsen Photographers: Anders von Greffelstejn, andersvonGreffelstejn.com Simon B. Mørch, simin.tumblr.com Sacha Maric, sachamaric.com Editorial assistants: Cathrine Møss Cecilie Thorsmark

Every season, Danish fashion companies seem to make greater and greater use of the city of Copenhagen as a sometimes cool, sometimes breathtaking setting for their fashion shows. Yester day, CPH Vision chose the Gefion Fountain as their production’s backdrop, while Moonspoon Saloon transformed City Hall into a gloomy theater and Karen by Simonsen showed at Kongens Have, a green patch in the center of the City. I really enjoy seeing how Copenhagen seems to be taking color from the fashion industry. And even though the rain threatened to drown the first day of the fashion week, Copenhagen seemed to shine through. And it will continue to do so for the next three days come rain, come snow, come hellish apocalypse. Various brands are hosting parties in the streets, and cool kids pose for fashion bloggers on every street corner. Literally. I enjoy it. Hope you will to. Yours truly, Chris Pedersen Editor-in-chief

Distribution: Cathrine Møss Amalie Ramsby Print OTM Avistrykkeri

Photography Jonas Bie

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Campaign Season.

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 6 – News

Top 3 Scandinavian fashion campaigns: -Beauty with a Bite Photographer Hasse Nielsen captured the essence of the twilight collection from Designers Remix Collection, persuading Danish model Caroline to take a bite of blonde beauty Olga from France. designersremix.com -Boyish Charm We can’t help falling in love with the dreamy look of Danish model Mathias Lauridsen in the FW2010 campaign for Swedish designer Filippa K, shot by Camilla Åkrans.

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Digital Fashion. ”The thing that would’ve annoyed me the most was if one of the other magazines had developed the idea first,” editor-in-chief of Danish fashion magazine Costume, Rikke Agnete Dam, thought to herself last year. Her ambition was a digital magazine. Not another blog or yet another website, but a publication edited like a traditional magazine with articles, news-pages, and traditional ads. Fast forward to today and the digital sister of Costume, Fashionista, is now produced 12 times a year with ad-pages slowly growing. “Advertisers like the fact that the format is similar to that of a normal magazine,” Dam says. But Fashionista also incorporates movie clips and taped interviews in the concept. The coolest feature? Viewers can go directly from the page to web shops selling the featured fashion items, and Rikke Agnete Dam believes that Fashionista is tapping directly into the future of digital magazines. “I don’t think we are seeing the death of traditional print media. Reason being that a digital publication will never be as luxurious as a printed magazine. But the readers are spending a surprisingly long time reading Fashionista. That tells me that digital media is the way to go. With the development of iPads and e-books, it’s just a matter of time until we will see the explosion of this type of concept.” costume.dk/fashionista

Luxury Companies Invade CPH Vision. With a more focused profile and stronger identity, CPH Vision will from now on be exhibiting only womenswear designers, accessories and brands. Besides that, the fair will be presenting a more high-profile and design-driven portfolio with brands like Cacharel, Mulberry, Max Mara’s younger sister PennyBlack, Twist & Tango & Maria Westerlind.

Chris’s Pick of the Day. The Anne Lehmann-designed City Bike from Normann Copehagen ranks high on my wish list. It’s streamlined, nostalgic, super stylish, and I really love the green accents on the chain, the saddle and the handle bars. normann-copenhagen.com

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 7 – News

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Bloggers Unite!

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Copenhagen Fashion Fairs, in collaboration with Danish style bible COVER, invites Scandinavian and international key-bloggers to visit the new Blog-Spot lounge at both Terminal-2 and CPH Vision, where press and bloggers can hang out, network, exchange ideas and make use of the computers to blog directly from the fair and upload their latest reports and pictures. Cover.dk

Since 1986, Danish fashion brand Part Two has been the go-to brand for wardrobe stables such as sharp blazers and feminine dresses. To mark the 25th anniversary, head designer Pernille Skriver has designed a special collection sampling details from the history of the brand. The collection is shown at the Part Two showroom in Kedelsmedien, Danneskiold Samsøes Allé 55. Call +45 40573 573 for more information. parttwo.com

Inside Copenhagen. Top model and blogger for Cover.dk Christel Winther shares her tips on Copenhagen. Time’s Up. Vintage store Time’s Up has a great selection, and is placed right next to the flagship store of Danish designer Henrik Vibskov. He has a cool selection of young Danish designers such as S.N.S. Herning, Bibi Ghost and Peter Jensen. Kødbyen. Grab a bike and go to Kødbyen to see cool artists at the district’s many galleries, and enjoy your dinner at Pate Pate. TS. For delicious cocktails, go to former S/M bar TS in Pisserenden and chill out in its dark corners. mielmonmiel.cover.dk

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 8 – News

The next big thing The next big thing for your mobile phone This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week launches a mobile application that pampers you with the latest updates in the show and event schedules and contains information about showrooms, designers, restaurants, photos and footage from the runway shows - everything you need when you’re on the go during fashion week. Copenhagen Fashion Week is the first fashion week in the world to create an app for all platforms: Android, iPhone, Symbian and HTML. It can be downloaded at Android Market, iTunes App Store or at copenhagenfashionweek.com/app.

220 models on the runway at The World’s Greatest Catwalk An event of unseen dimensions takes place on Saturday, August 14 at 15.00. The culmination of Copenhagen Fashion Week, The World’s Greatest Catwalk is a record-breaking event which will transform the main pedestrian street Strøget into one long - and pink runway on which 220 models will walk one mile (1.609 km) and show the best of the upcoming AW season from a total of 500 Scandinavian brands. And best of all, it’s open for everybody to attend. Be there – and don’t forget to dress in pink to match the runway!

The Voices of Fashion: Valerie Steele

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The first of a series of interviews this week with key personas in the fashion industry Words Susanne Madsen If you’ve ever studied fashion in one capacity or another, chances are you’ve opened at least one book by revered fashion historian Valerie Steele. Writer of iconic tomes such as The Corset: A Cultural History and Gothic: Dark Glamour, Dr. Steele is an authority on fashion, body and culture and the director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, as well as the editor-in-chief of the unimpeachable quarterly academic publication, Fashion Theory. This Friday, Steele is giving a talk at The Museum of Art and Design in Copenhagen on the topic of Fashion in Museums. We caught up with her on the first day of the shows to hear her thoughts on current issues in the fashion industry. What’s a fashion curator’s biggest challenge? “You mean apart from getting money to pay for the shows? Getting the objects you want. We have a great permanent collection at the Fashion Institute of Technology, but we rely on press people, too, and sometimes they’re not very responsive. I know some people also find it hard to view clothes without a body, saying it looks like the flayed skin of St Bartholomew. Of course we try to get the best mannequins and complement them with audio and video, but I guess it comes down to your audience taking a leap of imagination.” Which topics of research in fashion

academia currently interest you? “For the upcoming issue of Fashion Theory we’re looking at street style in Japan, going much deeper than just Lolita culture by exploring the different style tribes of the 1950s and 1960s. Other current areas are older women in fashion magazines and fashion in fiction.” Why do you think the catwalk holds such a grip on our collective imagination? “The catwalk functions as performance art, and it’s one of the ways we relate to fashion – another way is through what we wear. The glamour notion is interesting to general members of the public, but fashion professionals are wedded to the catwalk. There have been attempts to do video presentations, but we want to return to the catwalk where clothes are in motion, up close.” How do you view the loops that occur in fashion history? “As a fashion historian, I’m very interested in cycles. It’s actually a way for designers to protect themselves from being ripped off. What I don’t like is derivative recycling. As for the current fifties wave, I think it all stems from Mad Men. It’s certainly not about nostalgia – the appeal would be too alien for today.” We’ve got a feature in the A/W 10 issue of DANSK titled Paintings for the Blind, which discusses how people in fashion perhaps don’t read an awful lot about their subject. Is fashion breeding illiterates? “Not fashion, but culture as a whole. Reading what our peers have to say is hugely important. What we say about something influences what we think about it – even what we see. You need that discourse. Only look at fashion shows: people want to hear what each other think and they want to read what Suzy Menkes has to say. I mainly read Suzy, Vanessa Friedman at Financial Times and Eric Wilson at The New York Times.” To book a place at Dr. Steele’s talk this Friday at 3PM, email mai@ danishfashioninstitute.dk Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Director of DANSK

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 10 – News

Copenhagen Fashion Week welcomes Wella as new sponsor Leading haircare brand Wella is the newest sponsor of Copenhagen Fashion Week, and will be so for at least the next three years. Wella’s activities for its first season include providing the overall hair look for the World’s Greatest Catwalk by their lead stylist Thomas Edlund and a professional team of hair stylists, as well as the look for the official opening show by YDE. “Over the last few years, we have been on a journey to re-invent our brand, taking it to new heights. Our partnership with Copenhagen Fashion Week is a very important part of this exciting process,” says Luisa Delgado, CEO of Wella Nordic. wella.dk

A display to die for

One of the hottest fashion accessories this summer is the ultrahyped Galaxy S Android smartphone by Samsung. With state of the art technology, the display has extraordinarily bright colors and the screen is no less than 4 inches big, making it the ultimate phone for the Copenhagen Fashion Week mobile app, where you can watch videos and photos from the latest shows, giving you that front-row feeling. samsung. dk

Love Is in the Hair Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Wella Hair Look Show: Ole Yde, City Hall The styling of the YDE show at City Hall drew inspiration from elves and sirens. Its basic idea was to convey cool sophistication and enticing femininity. The hair was combed back smoothly for a classic look, but a twisted cocoon shape lent it some edge. Featuring lots of natural shine, the hair styling gave the look an air of refinement and coolness. All products were from the Wella High Hair line, and key products were Curl Energy Mousse and Finishing Spray Ultra Strong Hold.

Tom Dixon at Normann Cph Today the British lighting and furniture company Tom Dixon, in collaboration with laminate experts Formica Group, arrives at it’s fourth location of the Road Show at Normann Copenhagen. Tom Diwon presents the lamp Void, a lighting object with a double wall spun construction and the stackable cafe chair Peg. Tom Dixon established the company in 2002 and has quickly become a force to be reckoned with in the world of interior lighting and furniture. normann-copenhagen.com and formica.com

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 12 – Feature

Runways go curvy In the last few seasons, the international runways have seen an influx of curvier models, a tendency with longer traditions in Danish fashion, in which collections are often tailored for the female form. Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Illustration Laura Silke Berg Nielsen

website called Vogue Curvy which hires plus-size models like Chrystal Renn and Lizzie Miller. Are curves the new black?

When British knitwear designer Mark Fast presented his fall collection back in February, women several sizes larger than most fashion models strolled down his runway. The models Mark Fast hired were size 40 rather than size 32. Although Fast’s curvy statement went further than most would in this industry, his show epitomized a wider tendency of hiring curvier models.

”A lot of attention has been placed on skinny models in debates about eating disorders, so models with more shapes and curves just might become a new trend,” says Bente Lundquist, the owner and CEO of Scoop Models. Up at Unique Models, women’s booker Jeppe Mydtskov can’t say that the popular models are curvier.

For Louis Vuitton’s fall collection, Marc Jacobs chose to book models like Laetista Vasta, Bar Rafaeli and Elle Macpherson (a.k.a. ”The Body”), adding hips and bosoms to a runway that usually keeps such body parts at a slimmed-down minimum. Keeping in line with the runway show, the three models Jacobs has hired for Louis Vuitton’s fall campaign Natalia Vodianova, Karen Elson and Christy Turlington – all have the ultra feminine 90s supermodel look. At the same time, Italian Vogue has launched a new section on their

”While there has been a tendency internationally to book girls who are somewhat bigger, they are often booked because they’re already famous. Take Lily Cole. She’s more of a celebrity than a model, really, and as soon as you’re a celebrity, it’s suddenly ”okay” to be a little bit larger. I think those models are often booked because of their name and status rather than the appearance of their bodies. And then the big fashion houses get credit for booking a somewhat older, somewhat larger model,” says Mydtskov.

Whatever the reason for this influx of curves and female forms, it suits Danish fashion just fine. Female designers from Denmark have always had feminine shapes in mind when designing clothes. One of them is Naja Munthe from Munthe plus Simonsen. ”I have always striven to design clothes for real people. 90 percent of all women have features they’d like to accentuate and other features they’d like to conceal, so I try to make clothes both for the woman who wants to flaunt her waistline and for the woman who wants to hide her arms. In Scandinavia, most designers target the Scandinavian market, and don’t allow their designs to be dictated by the conformities of ”ideal” beauty. We have our own individual ideas about what looks good and what’s healthy and comfortable,” says Munthe, who also considers wearability when booking models. ”Obviously, when designing a collection, I also construct a dream universe that signals something out of the ordinary, something not

grounded in reality. But in Denmark, women need to be able to picture themselves wearing the clothes, so when I book models, I book a whole range of different types in order to reflect the diversity of our society. To me, it’s more important that a model’s personality shines through than the question of whether she’s a 36 or 38.” Bente Lundquist can also see a difference in model choices between clients in Denmark and abroad. ”Most Danish clients have never been too fond of extremely skinny girls, unlike clients in other countries. While Danish fashion magazines often picture models with a particular look and an edge that reflects the international fashion preferences, most of the commercial clients want a girl-next-door whose smile radiates happiness, health and personality.”

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 16 – Show – Photo Sacha Maric –

Cut like a Knife.

Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Showing for only the third time, Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Diogo already demonstrate a serious and consistent style approach to their brand Spon Diogo. Along the way, they’ve refined and developed their sharp 80s influenced signature silhouette. Minimalistic in every sense, the show featured a collection on the cutting edge of fashion, titled ’Displacement’ to reflect how they work with visual effects and materials to add layers to a sharp, constructed design, working in organzas, wools, silks and leathers. They continue to work around the little black dresses with cut-out effects, sharp business suits with slightly sculpted shoulders, jackets

with asymmetrical fronts and tapered, tight-fitting pants with a pointy feature at the hemline in the front crease. Two stunning coats in black took your breath away – one in the softest black leather with a visible zipper, the other a black evening trenchcoat seemingly in silk-wool. No wonder Spon Diogo is nominated for Max Factor’s New Talent Award, to be revealed later this year. Meanwhile, catch them if you can.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 18 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

FreeFlowing and Floral. Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt CIFF is renowned for highlighting each season’s major trends in an elaborate setting. This year did not disappoint. The first stage was set against a backdrop of plants, and had the female models wearing huge butterfly masks with colorful swimwear, while male models were more subdued and uniformed in cut-off jeans and white shirts. The overall mood was relaxed with flowing floral prints and splashes of neon and metallic accessories for a fun twist. The second part of the show had smiling models strutting down the runway arm in arm in a dotted, fun-filled setting. The look was fifties California cool with lots of relaxed fits in floral prints and powdery colors and accessories with a more romantic twist to them. The men wore traditional American-style leisurewear – crisp shirts, khakis, cardigans and fitted jackets – but the color scheme was far from traditional with hints of neon brights.

Fluid Lynch. Words Rikke Dyrholm The graduate show of The Danish Design School revealed a mystical universe that immediately captivated the audience. Ghostly tunes and beats from overseas and a floating white mist carpet made you wonder – Who killed Laura Palmer? The bachelor graduates opened the show with models strolling down the runway in big fluffy fur collars, pompous sleeves, and headgear inspired by a plethora of different cultures. The students showed everything from knitted, squared and plastic-packaged fur dresses, fishnet creations and lots of cleanshaped mystique, wrapped in the Nordic spirit. The post-grads followed up and closed with a number of promising well-shaped creations. Huge warrior-inspired shoulders, bellshaped dresses, alternative material-mixes, pom-poms and round hats dominated the scene - reminiscent of a music box. Towards the end of the graduate show, the models entered the stage one by one each wearing an interpretation of amphifibians. The color scale underscored the Nordic ghostly ambiance and when the tunes of Tim Buckley’s Song of a Sirene filled the room it was clear that nobody in here killed Laura Palmer.

A mix of glamorous black-clad ladies and hobo chic males graced the runway for the show’s third act. Again, the runway featured lots of layered dresses and golden accessories – the perfect look for a stroll through the city. The fourth and final portion of the show was a figurative vision with lots of stripes, squares and dots – like an amped up Beach Boys’ video with models carrying flowers like they were on their way to a date. The look had an all-American sixties vibe. The show ended on a note that aptly signified CIFF’s SS’11 atmosphere – with lots of happy soap bubbles!

marc by marc jacobs celebrates the opening of two new marc by marc jacobs stores in 책rhus on august 18, 2010 and in stockholm on september 22, 2010 join us at the copenhagen store for a fashion week peek at the a/w 2010 collection xoxo,

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 20 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Caught in the Crystal Palace.

Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Despite having three man-size crystal chandeliers (almost) take over the show along with other technical difficulties, the womenswear magazine ALT for Damerne succeeded in giving their prestigious Guldknap (Gold Button, ed.) award to Julie Fagerholt for her Heartmade design. The award is given to a designer who has distinguished him- or herself significantly in our fashion consciousness. In Heartmade’s case with wonderful detailing, choice of luxurious materials and a classic overall look. ALT for Damerne has also established a new award – Sølvtråden (the silver thread, ed.) – to a new designer who has also made a noticeable difference, but has not yet reached the same commercial potential.

The show featured six beautiful, cocktail-elegant entrances with which Ole YDE, the Sølvtråden recipient, displayed his enormous talent for layering and creating luxurious effects with lace and ruffles. Heartmade’s 16 entrances were more colorful and showed Julie Fagerholt’s talent for making wearable luxury looks. Lots of florals with raw contrasts like hot pants, large jewelry and headwear conveying nomad chic with ethnic touches. Wonderful, wearable and award-winning! DANSK Daily congratulates both recipients.

ANNONCE Since 1981 Karen Millen has brought atelier designs to the high-street. Once reserved for the haute houses of Paris and Milan, Karen Millen’s couture-like attention to detail, from the weight of the top stitch on this seasons perfectly tailored jacket to the position of the seam lines on a knock-out dress, shines through in each carefully designed, lovingly made and effortlessly chic piece in the new Autumn Winter 2010 collection.

KAREN MILLEN’S AUTUMN/ WINTER 2010 COLLECTION SIGNALS A RETURN TO LUXURIOUS CLASSIC INVESTMENT PIECES This season’s must-have key items include a perfectly tailored cape. Play with volume and proportions by cocooning yourself in the exclusively woven double-faced wool, balancing the look with slim fitting lines.

“This season is about a new layered way of dressing, offering beautifully crafted statement pieces that focus on comfort, luxury and timelessness. The cape is one of our hero pieces and a fantastic foundation piece for the winter wardrobe.” Gemma Metheringham, MD and Creative Director, Karen Millen

FASHIONS NIGHT OUT Dansk1.indd 1

Karen Millen invites you to join them on 13 TH AUGUST from 5 PM as they celebrate Fashions Night Out. Complimentary drinks, glamorous make-over’s from MAC Cosmetics and an exclusive DJ set from Sunday Girl.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 22 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

in the King’s Garden.

Words Rikke Dyrholm Experienced womenswear designer Karen Simonsen once again established her versatile and fluid grasp of fashion yesterday. The outdoor setting in King’s Garden expressed the kind of casual elegance that has become a Karen By Simonsen trademark. As the models strolled down the windy catwalk - in long white shirts, vests, casual and delicate dresses, blazers and chinos with long unkempt hair and dark eyebrows - the stage was set for a Frenchcolony-in-western-Africa kind of mood. The show underscored this atmosphere by revealing a natural color scale held mostly in light and discrete transparent materials with a casual touch. Karen By Simonsen flaunts the feminine and pays a tribute to nature by choosing

natural colors reminiscent of wind and sand with silver denim as an edgy standout. Karen’s French-inspired feminine dedication is refreshing in a time when Lady Gaga shoulders, boombastic wedges and edgy designs dominate the fashion picture. The finale picked up with a delicate minty green brocade dress and a pair of pink heels, to the tunes of Rolling Stones, and the only words left to say were Rock on Karen!

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 26 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Horrific Chic.

Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Even before the first model entered the runway at Moonspoon Saloon SS11, the mood was already set: a backdrop of gloomy sounds, a walking tombstone, rattling bones and a scary clown break-dancing with his kid clone. Fashion shows are usually a kid-free environment, but this one had children in the audience almost spilling out on the runway… Kudos to them for staying well-behaved in the apocalyptic Moonspoon setting! The air of gothic horror proportions continued as the show commenced. It was a fashion show bordering on an art installation with models clad in basic jersey and leather, but in shapes and styles far from basic. The look had a strong Nordic mythology edge mixed with something

you would see in a Peter Jackson movie – like pretty elves painted black and morphed with orcs. A muddy color scheme not digressing from the black, dark green and mauve was the perfect fit for the blackened over-size heart shapes being carried onto the runway. It was an out-washed vision of androgynous fashions ending theatrically with a morbid model line-up of sad, desolate faces – which received one of the biggest hands of applause of this fashion week yet. Who says gloomy isn’t glamorous?

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 28 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Young MacDonald Had a Farm.

´Words Rikke Dyrholm To the mean tunes of an inhouse-DJ, Frost Birgens made his SS show debut yesterday, unveiling his passion for soccer and children’s songs to the spectactors. The menswear label’s composite universe of soccer and the tune ’Old MacDonald Had a Farm’ revealed itself as the first model entered the stage wearing shorts with long johns underneath, tennis socks, a checkered shirt and a straw hat. The models following emphasized this style with casual pants, long johns, knitted shirts, casual bottomed striped t-shirts, shirts and casual checkered blazers. The color palette contributed to the boyish farmer MacDonald inspiration by representing the six most

popular colors for soccer teams and kindergarten kids: moss green, sea blue, curry yellow, pavement grey, red and brown. Birgens frosted the theme with inseam stripes in opposite colors and big pockets on the pants. As the last model left the runway to drum beats, Frost Birgens himself entered the stage in long johns, shorts, tennis socks, a white bottomed shirt and a smile on his face. One couldn’t help but smile with him – not because of his theme, but because it worked!

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www.MINI.dk 06-08-2010 13:52:35

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PG. 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Take a Bow.

Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Dramatic violins indicated the mood of a Hollywood film noir, models with their simple back-swept hair and pale transparent makeup suggested cool heroines, and the collection of mainly soft, fluid dresses evoked memories of times past, when ladies dressed to the nines. Ole Yde once again demonstrated his strong hand on international and elegant clothes, this time reflecting the mood of an independent woman looking for cocktail dresses, skirts and evening gowns with classic influences, yet also wanting to express modernity with above knee and mid-thigh hemlines in a flowing A-line silhouette. Though cut simple and somewhat tailored, the collection was at the same time light and airy with lots of

flairs and frills in the silks, laces and tulles, in a monochrome palette of whites, creams and blacks with a few summery pastels like chartreuse, conch pink and sea blue. A favourite number was an ivory shirt with a long pleated tulle skirt, the waist accentuated by a novelty, wide belts by Alidra Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;e adorned with gilded leaves for a casual, yet refined evening-look - but Yde never failed to feature his signature bow in many of the ultra-feminine designs, and he more than deserved the warm enthusiasm that greeted him post-show. Ole, take a bow!

FREE GUIDED TOURS

The Museum of Art and Design celebrates Copenhagen Fashion Week by inviting you to join one of our free guided tours of the exhibition, WALK ON THE WILD SIDE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Margit Brandt Fashion Design 1965-1980. Entrance fee is obligatory.

Tour schedule:

Thursday 12.08 through Saturday 14.08 at 12pm and 3pm. Sunday 15.08 at 2pm. When buying a Margit Brandt scarf in the Museum Shop you get a free exhibition catalogue. This offer is only valid through Sunday 15.08.2010.

THE EXHIBITION WILL BE ON SHOW UNTIL SUNDAY 19.09.2010. READ MORE AT WWW.KUNSTINDUSTRIMUSEET.DK

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 32 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

A Good Old Visionaire.

Words Moussa Mchangama The first models at this season’s Vision Press Show were styled in a baroque-inspired look that took the nude-trend to the next level. Kneehigh stockings, bonnets and classical music provided a modern take on a good old roll in the hay. A shift in music, and suddenly models clad in tight black, grey and army-green leather appeared, reassuring us all that we haven’t seen the last of the power woman of the ‘10s. Next, an elegant and glamorous ‘60s inspired look. With bold prints, pencil skirts and big scarves around the heads, you would only need a convertible to complete the look. As a good contrast to the feminine girls on the runway, a more masculine way of dressing ended the show. Styling your white shirt with black is a classic, and for spring it is as evident as always. Commercial maybe, but at least the trends on this show won’t make you throw out half of your closet in six months.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 34 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Poetry in Motion.

Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Denmark’s über-bohemian designer Susanne Rützou re-invented herself drawing upon inspiration from the works of Austrian artists Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt in a collection full of poetry and sensuality. Set on a stage dominated by gold-plated pillars reminiscent of giants mosaics as in Klimt’s work, she told the story of a Spring and Summer in soft and feminine, yet comfortable and functional clothes. Working around her beloved powdery, pastelled palette infused with shots of purple and blue, she sent out natural-looking beauties with upswept un-ruly hair-do’s and rosy cheeks clad in the softest silk blouses and dresses, often with ruffled edges and draping, in solids and print.

Gone were her signature structured drop-crotch pants in favor of far more flattering soft-tailored pants falling beautifully on the highheeled shoes, either in cargo-style with large outside pockets or more suit-like with a twist, using wide elastic both in the waistline and at the ankles. Cascades of thin gold chains around neck and waist, or giant gold baubles on a string crisscrossed on the body, sent a nod to her art nouveau inspiration, the clothes still looking contemporary bohemian.

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11-08-2010 11:17:09

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 36 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

The BZR Buzz.

Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt The opening of BZR’s SS11 show made a clear reference to the legendary fashion shows of the late Alexander McQueen: Video visuals that briefly took you backstage and then doubled infinitely once the model took the stage – a very cool background for the show set in the BZR/Bruuns Bazaar company headquarters’ atrium courtyard. The look was generally minimalistic with an elongated silhouette reminiscent of a seventies Anglo-French archetype. It featured lots of floral prints, which were playful and flirty in broderie anglaise and flowing fabrics. Sweet, sensual and oh so easy to wear. The flirtatious vibe was contrasted by army accents, whose military color range blended in nicely with the natural shades. The military references also underlined the

collection’s strong utilitarian vibe. On the male side of the BZR brand, the style of the all-American college boy continues but with an addition of military utility wear – albeit in a much more urban, cool way. Cargo pants, khakis and army-style jackets along with printed T-shirts, college jackets and light leisure suits created a mixed and matched look for the casual but stylish guy. The collection as a whole presents clothes for both men and women that are cool and comfortable, and will blend in seamlessly with any wardrobe – probably the reason BZR will be a part of your wardrobe next year.

Taske

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 38 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Tuesday, August 10, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Anders von Greffelstejn –

VS. Magazine at Bakken. Bakken, a place of courtyard barbecues, deadly carousels, socialites with attitude and melancholic bartenders.

Blonde charmeur mozies up to the hostess with the mostest Marie-Louise Fabiana Allegra Tüxen DeLacroix.

Voila, a spanking fresh copy of VS.!

Crucifixes, whether today or 2000 years ago, always seem to say “You can’t touch this. Break it down. Stop. Hammertime!”

The chick on the left sported the first raised eyebrow of this season’s fashion week at the sight of her acquaintence’s new getup. Cold.

Powerful fashion designers are always the life of the party.

Oh, these design-school students, always browsing for new styles to “appropriate”. Please just chill.

The queen of kernesunde power-millionøser everywhere, Mama Lulu was flabbergasted by the fashion suicides committed by some of her event’s attendees.

These shoes are 300 dollars.

As one half of the flirtacious fashion power duo known as The Hilarious Hardgrove Sistas, Heidi knows just what angle the camera loves to capture her dazzling blond hair from.

These shaded dudes make Kødbyen so happy hipster you wanna gnaw your eyes out.

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 39 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Wednesday August 11, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Anders von Greffelstejn –

moonspoon saloon.

It-gurl Rikke is a saloon regular and will sling her guns till the break of dawn.

Rock and roll superstylist Sassie Baré makes a quick phone call to Björk to tell her about the new Moonspoon collection. No smoking in City Hall, miss Baré!

The handshake of a lifetime.

A lone fashion connoisseur ponders the theatricality of Moonspoon’s new post-apocalyptica.

They call me Bozo the sleazy midget clown and I’m here to wreck your party.

This season is all about unbuttoning and flaunting your chest’s manscaping.

Artist Evren Tekinoktay can easily relate to the bonkers Moonspoon universe, or spooniverse if you will.

The next installment in the Twilight series will feature Diego, the albino fashion vampire from southern Sri Lanka.

Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 40 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Wednesday, August 11, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem –

Max Factor New Talent Award.

Under these smiling nominee faces lies a raw hunger for victory. The Winner Takes It All!

Establishment fashionistas discussing all the new talent. “But are they worthy?”

Notice Eva Kruse’s right cheekbone elegantly illuminated from behind the runway.

She may look sweeter than your grandmother, but Didder Rønlund... Well okay, she’s probably sweeter than your grandmother. AND she knows more about clothes.

Rui rui RUI RUI RUI, roma RUI RUI RUI, gaga Rui Rui Rui, want your bad ruimance.

Eva Kruse tells the contestants that they’re still in the running to becoming Denmark’s new top talent.

DANSK Daily’s very own Elsebeth Mouritzen has a cunning eye for the rising talents of Danish fashion.

Anne Stine Bae is a fashion blogger but not JUST a fashion blogger, okay? She also happens to be an accomplished stylist AND she enjoys the occasional latenight Sisqo’s Shakedown at Cosy Bar.

Why, smoking is such a delicious habit!

Goodie-bag-grabber Anne Christine sports fashion week’s most bodacious bangs.

John from PR agency Spalt knows how to pronounce “Givenchy”.

Max Factor makeup artist Minna and Cover Magazine’s Charlotte Torpgaard are as inseparable as the Olsen twins!

Restaurant Sankt Gertruds Kloster: Explore the fascination of Copenhagen´s 14th century

d: e t a t s e nc o t s i r ust u o m a At e r sa n o i t c a r gen: 3 att a h n e p in Co rmaid, Tivoli Me e l t t i l The – and er. t s o l K uds r t r …. e g G n i t n k e n v a S le e b a t t e g r An unfo

Entering Sankt Gertruds Kloster under the streets of Copenhagen is like stepping back into medieval times. Here you are welcomed by a fascinating atmosphere and massive vaults illuminated only by hundreds of candles. Our restaurant has since 1397 been a part of Copenhagen history and today Sankt Gertruds Kloster seats more than 400 guests. Every night our chef offers specialties prepared by using only the very best ingredients of the four seasons. For menu of the month visit our website – www.sgk.as Opening hours: Mon – Sat 17-23 Hauser Plads 32 • 1127 Copenhagen K Tel +45 33146630 Fax +45 33939365 www.sgk.as • mail@sgk.as Sankt Gertruds Kloster 265x370 mm.indd 1

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 42 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Friday August 6, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –

NN07/ YouHeShe Event.

LOL giggles, fashion tickles.

Like two sartorial nymphs carrying laser machine guns from Jupiter in the year 2099 and special agent surveillance gear in their champagne glasses, InWear’s Lene Borgaard and movie director Camilla are in it for the kill.

Joekim, whose aptly-named hairdressing salon Oops has provided this fashion week with green highlights and twink haircuts, falls into the trap of conversing with Peter Bög, the flirtiest homosexual in town.

No, this isn’t a Gap commercial edged up with the drinking of alcoholic beverages. It’s just four tween boys in their sexual prime enjoying a fashion party. 5 The heart has its reasons, of which reaso

No brocabulary could sufficiently describe the bromance present in this picture - it might just lead to a brojob.

Henrik Kejser of YouHeShe will lull you into a sweet online fashion shopper’s paradise and, despite reasonable pricing, make you max out your Master Card.

The heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing. - Blaise Pascal

Yeah so I’ve got some ink on my body and you best believe I don’t need no accessories on my classic white men’s tee, got it?

These edgy dudes love fashion, Barack Obama, Lady Gaga, sushi, pizza and NN07.

Euroman’s Frede (center) powers his wrists with world-class fashion editor style-startling ferociousness. Anna Wintour would be proud of you girl.

Natalee is frustrated by the event’s lack of Lacroix accessories.

Having escaped the swanky design hotel surroundings of Skt Petri, these bitches are ready for some grotesque partying. Grotesque.

Always suckers for free Kronenburgs, Barbara-Victoria and Stella Antoinette enjoyed their asses off at YouHeShe.

Photo Jimmy Nelson

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 44 – Look of the Day Moonspoon Saloon, City Hall – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Anders von Greffelstejn

Eerie dearie

The inspiration for this show’s makeup seems to have been found in a dark and creepy place – which of course looks trés chic. The skin has a pale and cool tone to it, which makes you think of very fragile tea china. The eyes have been painted a dark purple creating extremely deep eye hollows, which gives the look loads of edgy drama. On some models, the lips have been painted dark on the verge of blue like they were a group day-walkers otherwise prone to nighttime. Spooky eeriness no doubt! But also beautifully elegant. Makeup by Max Factor Key Products Max Factor Earth Spirits Eye Shadow No. 128 Passionate Plum Max Factor Mastertouch Concealer Max Factor Colour Perfection Eyeliner No. 60 Ice Blue

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Dansk Daily SS11 Thursdag 12.08.10 – PG. 46 – Schedule

Copenhagen Fashion Festival THURSDAY 22.00-06.00 Adidas/Soundvenue Fashion Week Party Pumpehuset, Studiestræde 52, Copenhagen V LIVE: Sleigh Bells (US) 23:00 Kenton Slash Demon (DK) DJ´S: 2000 F+JG, Djuna Barnes, Gianna Factory, Complicated Universal Cum, Thi Nam Nam 18.00-20.00 Urban Outfitters´ Got Talent Østergade 42, Copenhagen K Three students from the Danish Design Schools will present three views on new fashion textile design in a in-store exhibition, with music, drinks and goodiebags. 16.00-17.00 Best of Bestseller Vero Moda / Jack & Jones, Vimmelskaftet 38, Copenhagen K If you think Bestseller has the slightest to do with book charts you’re sorely mistaken. All you’ll have to read at the fashion giants fabulous 16.00 daily trend shows at Bestseller’s flagship store at Vimmelskaftet for their girls’ labels, as well as the casual cool leisure line Vintage, are your show notes.

EVENTS

SHOWS

THURSDAY

10.00 – 18.00 75 % BLUE INK One colour, one month - one rule: at least 75% blue and four designers. Slagtehusgade 3D, Copenhagen V Open to public

10.00 Designskolen Kolding City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V Open to public

11.00-12.00 Malene Birger Book Signing Escape into the aestetic universe of Malene Birger and eat brunch New York style. Fiolstræde 10-12, Copenhagen K By invitation only 11.00 – 18.00 Diana Brinks Vs. Bibi Ghost How two different designers from exactly the same material of inspiration, evolves two times two unique creations. Peder Hvitfeldts Stræde 6, Copenhagen K Open to public

11.00 TEKO Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Open to public 12.00 Heering/Lars Wallin NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen K By invitation only 13.00 Peter Jensen Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 14.00 Jean//Phillip City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only

13.00 – 22.00 Mads Nørgaard POP-UP store Slagterboderne 8, Copenhagen V Open to public

15.00 Margit Brandt The Danish Museum of Art & Design, Bredgade 68, Copenhagen K By invitation only

16.00-19.00 Mulberry and Costume event Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V By invitation only

16.00 Wood Wood Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art, Oslo Plads 1, Copenhagen Ø By invitation only

16.00-20.00 Fashion Café Network and get special fashion offer on Bollinger Champagne First Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K Open to public

17.00 Stylein Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only

20.30-04.00 Party DIOR – SOIREE Line Up: Trap Lite (Mikael Gjøl & Thomas Ebu) and Sugarbois Pilestræde 12A, Copenhagen K By invitation only 21.00 – 05.00 SOUNDVENUE fashion week dinner party Address: TBC Open to public 23.00 – 04.00 Munthe plus Simonsen fashion week party A Porta, Kongens Nytorv 17, Copenhagen K By invitation only

18.00 Bruuns Bazaar Silkegade 8, Copenhagen K By invitation only 19.00 Munthe plus Simonsen Grønnegade, Copenhagen K By invitation only 20.00 David Andersen Royal Copenhagen flagship store, Amagertorv 6, Copenhagen K By invitation only 21.00 Vilsbøl de Arce Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 22.00 Stine Goya TBC By invitation only 23.00 Noir NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen K By invitation only

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