Copenhagen Fashion Week AW2010 Official Newspaper – –
Nordics Unite! – Double Up: Fashion Columns & Copenhagen Insider – Cover: Models wearing minimarket, Photo Annemie By Dreves
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Saturday 13.02.10 – Free!
Read also: Look of the Day Envy of the Day – Remembering McQueen –
Shows Today: Stine Goya, Vilsbøl de Arce, YDE, minimarket, FIN, Karen by Simonsen –
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 2 – – Editorial – By Mikkel Hyldebrandt –
Relax, Take It Easy Publishers DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week Editor-in-chief Mikkel Hyldebrandt Editor / Project Coordinator Rozanna Fritz Subeditor Magnus Jorem Executive Editor Anne Christine Persson Art Direction / Graphic Design Applied Projects / Rune Høgsberg & Michael Mandrup applied.dk Writers Susanne Madsen Stinne Jensen Rikke Dyrholm Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photographers Cover + Look of the Day: Anne Mie Dreves, annemiedreves.dk Shows Sacha Maric sachamaric.com Events + Front Row Anders von Greffelstejn, andersvongreffelstejn.com Simon B. Mørch, simin.tumblr.com Editorial Assistant Signe Stampe Distribution Emilie Møller Cathrine Møss Kristine Lauritsen Print OTM Avistrykkeri
Now that fashion week is moving inevitably towards its end (this season, don’t panic!), it seems that people are taking on a more relaxed attitude. Maybe because the show is over, the endless PR efforts have finally paid off, or because you only have a couple of more shows to attend. At DANSK Daily the mood has also changed. We have worked our a**es off in the last couple of days, believe me, but luckily everyone feels that the resulting issuses of the paper have been worth it all. And we hope that the long hours and sleep deprevation don’t shine through, so that you feel the same. Considering our heightened spirits, we are in the mood of giving. So this issue is packed with lots of news, shows, parties and people. We have also cleared a page for an overview of the late McQueen’s career, and bring you two whole columns and two Copenhagen insiders! Now, if that ain’t generosity!
they wanted. Ole Yde overflowed with elegance, Margit Brandt was all about legs, FIN presented a strong and sustainable collection, minimarket had lots of punchy colors, Karen by Simonsen had created a myriad of styles and by Malene Birger was at her usual best. Now, it’s time for me to go, my work here is done and, kiddos, I’m weary… See you again next season! Yours truly, Mikkel Hyldebrandt
At the close of this fashion week, I would like to thank the entire team behind DANSK Daily – writers, photograhers, layouters and drivers alike! A special thanks to Anne Christine Persson, Rune Høgsberg, Magnus Jorem and Rozanna Fritz – We raised the bar once again. You’re my peeps!
Today’s shows were also keen on giving the audience what
Photo Anders von Greffelstejn
The DAISY collection Copenhagen Amagertorv 4 & Copenhagen Airport. Århus Søndergade 1 WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM. Additional stockists: +45 72 30 40 60
FORGET EXTENSIONS MAX FACTOR INTRODUCES LASH EXTENSION EFFECT MASCARA Don’t all women dream of long, dramatic lashes? Perhaps that’s why a lot of us now choose to have expensive lash extensions applied professionally. While they do the trick, they’re expensive, only last for 3 months and can actually damage your real lashes. Now, there is a new mascara that does away with all that - Lash Extension Effect from Max Factor.
THE SECRET BEHIND LONG, DRAMATIC LASHES IS HIDING IN THE CORNERS… Accentuating the corner lashes is what really gives impact to your eyes. That’s why professional make-up artists use a combination of mascara and lash extensions in the corners, where the real lashes are shorter and harder to reach. This is exactly what Lash Extension Effect can do naturally in order to give your eyes a beautifully fannedout panoramic effect that you simply wouldn’t have thought your own lashes were capable of.
TAKE YOUR OWN LASHES TO THE MAX INSTEAD! FOR YOUR EYES ONLY – STUNNING EYES IN 5 MINUTES!
NEW
Here the lashes are in focus. The delicate golden and brown eyeshadow shades provide a wonderful contrast to the black Lash Extension Effect mascara. How to get this look: “Start with an even layer of Natural Minerals Foundation to the entire face for a light and natural look. Apply Supernova Pearls # 420 to the entire eye above and beneath.Then apply the brown Terra Firam #106 to the globeline and stretch it a little at the edges to lift the eye. It is important the blend the two eyeshadows into each other to ensure a smooth transition.To give extra length to each of the lashes, apply Lash Extension Effect Mascara in black.To emphasize the cheekbones, use Flawless Perfection Blush in the colour Subtle Amber # 245. Finish off with Lipfinity in Glowing Sepia # 600.”
SO, HOW DOES IT WORK? The basic idea behind Lash Extension Effect is inspired by professional lash extensions with a formula that actually contains real lash extensions made from nylon fibres, pretty cool right? The other secret is the brush itself – long and slightly tapered it reaches and treats each lash individually to add length to ALL of your lashes. It is just like lash extensions in a tube and they last all day!
Mina Ingerslev, Max Factor Make-up artist
TIP: “To make the most of your mascara, make sure to apply it to the upper side of the lashes first and then from the lower side and upwards.This ensures that each lash is completely covered for extra length and fullness.”
WWW.MAXFACTOR.DK
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01/02/2010 11:29
Stop the Press – Looking back at McQueen’s career Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 6 – – Focus – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt & Magnus Jorem Photos style.com / Fotografi Associati / Marcio Madeira / Alexander McQueen Press Photos –
Alexander McQueen’s tragic death yesterday marked the end of a prolific yet all-too-short career that brought fashion forward into the twenty-first century. Whether stunning the runways in Milan with blue-skinned men and alien insect patterns or creating spectacular outfits for singers like Bjork and Lady Gaga, designing for Givenchy or under his own name, McQueen was always renewing his design profile, never going for the safe or obvious choices.
Jacket
1199,95 Early muse: Bjork
Oh my god. Shoes.
Although this small collection of images does no justice to the designer’s oevre as a whole, let it serve as a reminder that McQueen’s legacy will live on and inspire generations of fashion designers to come.
Graphic grit
The bluest man in Milan
Kate Moss in McQueen’s Givenchy, SS01
SS10: Attack of the aliens
only for retailers, visit our showrooms: Masteskurene 1 & 2, Gallionsvej 39, 1437 kbh k lindencrones Palæ, bredGade 26, 1260 kbh k
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 9 – –
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 8 – – Applied Projects Rune Høgsberg & Michael Mandrup – Art Directors of DANSK and DANSK Daily – applied.dk –
News The Danish Dilemma Words Susanne Madsen Here’s something for all you fashion Danes to think about: which things do non-Danes list when you ask them what Denmark’s about? The replies usually come thick and fast – bacon, Carlsberg, Aqua, Lars Von Trier, Lego and Bang & Olufsen. And fashion? Not a very likely word to pop up, alas. Denmark may have an ultra-impressive design tradition, boasting names such as Arne Jacobsen, Poul Henningsen and Georg Jensen, but it has yet to write itself into the international fashion history books. Rather amusingly, most of the people in the Danish fashion industry are completely oblivious to this and merrily go about trying to achieve world domination with what they think are their worldfamous, directional design signatures. But take it from this London-based writer: people don’t generally know more than one or two Danish labels, and it’s usually Peter Jensen (London-based) or Jens Laugesen (whose London-based label is sadly now defunct) that come up in conversation. Heck, to a lot of foreigners, Helena Christensen equals Danish fashion. Oh. Dear. Lord. Some of the letters we receive at DANSK, our biannual tome, are a crystalline example of the Danes’ lack of selfawareness and international context. We actually get emails from PRs at random frumpy, suburban ladies’ clothing labels, asking why we don’t feature them on our blog – and how come they’re not on our list of links when, y’know, they’re at least as good, if not better, than that Azzedine Alaïa person and all those other labels on there? If it wasn’t for the fact that it’s so tragic it would be almost adorable. So, how do we fix this predicament? Sorry to say, but the answer is never going to be hype, PR or swanky fashion weeks: it all starts with the clothes. You see, Danish fashion isn’t really all fashion: some labels are fashion, and others are premium basic, stylish design. And once Danish designers realise which camp they belong in, the Danish clothing industry will have a much better chance at international success and recognition. Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Director at DANSK
APPLIED PROJECTS A VISUAL AGENCY
ART DIRECTORS OF DANSK DAILY & DANSK MAGAZINE — APPLIED.DK
Copenhagen Insider – Sarah Skarum
Kim Jones styles WOOD WOOD
Where to go, what to do if you have a little time between shows and fashion fairs? DANSK Daily gives you a couple of insider tips from Copenhagen personalities.
Words Rozanna Fritz
Sarah is one of Denmark’s best and most poignant fashion writers. She works for the national newspaper Berlingske, where her witty column covers all sorts of fashion and lifestyle topics. Assistentens Kirkegård Although it is a cemetery, it’s actually a very nice breathing hole in the city. You can take a little stroll through to see where Great Danes like H.C. Andersen and Soeren Kierkegaard are buried, and when you exit, you get to experience one of the nicest parts of town with plenty of everyday life on display. Assistentens Kirkegård, Nørrebrogade Get your smørrebrød while it’s cold out CafÈ Fremtiden is one of the best but very local places to get Danish smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches on rye bread, ed.). Smørrebrød is pretty much the only Danish contribution to world cuisine, and what makes this place even better is that it turns into a tavern at night, where you can meet locals and local rock stars.
This season’s WOOD WOOD show is styled by Dunhill designer Kim Jones, creating lots of buzz leading up to the AW runway on Saturday. DANSK Daily: Why Kim Jones? WOOD WOOD: Kim is an old friend of ours, and it seemed obvious that we needed to put our heads together on a more creative level after talking about it for ages. Kim’s stuff has been a great inspiration for us from the beginning.
Editor’s Envy of the Day - Presented by HP Envy It isn’t pretty when the little monster known as envy veers its ugly, green head inside of us.
DD: Are there any similarities between WOOD WOOD and Dunhill? WW: No, I don’t think so at all. Dunhill stands for luxury, we represent the streets.
Envy occurs when another person has something that we feel we should be in possession of ourselves. It might be a desired object, a superior quality or a dazzling achievement of someone else that sends our emotions into the realms of envy.
DD: What else have you got down the collaboration pipeline? There’re a few projects that we’ve been working on for a while, but the most important thing is that we will have people doing stuff for us as a chance to the previous drops where we contributed with ideas to external brands.
DANSK Daily has decided to kick envy in the greens and give it a long overdue make-over. Because when you think about it, envy doesn’t have to be ugly. Envy has the power to make you realize what you really want. So use it as a positive driving force instead of letting things turn a nasty shade of green. With those words in mind, here is what has spurred our envy today:
Going home or moving on Library Bar is perfect if you need to unwind - time really stands still in there. Have some champagne, relax and feel at home! If you are more in the mood for moving out into the night, The Union is the place: a secret so well-kept that you wouldn’t know it was there. So find the entrance door in Strandstræde, ring the bell and dive into the night life.
Dansk Daily Beauty Flash #3 Frame those eyes They say the eyes are the window to the soul. True, but let’s face it: you can do a lot of damage to that window if you apply your makeup in the wrong way … That’s why we give you (drumroll, please): Max Factor Colour Precision Eyeshadow. Tada! These eyeshadows don’t come in the traditional box with a loose applicator – but rather bear resemblance to a lip gloss. The onestep applicator makes it easy to apply eye shadow with long-lasting, metallic-look, precison perfection. Max Factor Colour Precision Eyeshadow comes in four beautiful colours and costs 89 DKK.
Alas, to be one of those who actually indulge in all the trimmings of a fashion show. To have either the time or the gusto to pierce through the raging hordes of hungering guests (don’t people in fashion eat or drink elsewhere?) to enjoy the complimentary spreads of canapés and appetizers accompanied by plenty of champagne, beer and fashionable water. But on a tight deadline (read: black coffee diet) you only have time to wizz by the people eating, perhaps catching a longing glimpse or sniff of what’s being served. Choke on it, bitches! DANSK Daily Envy of the Day is brouht to you by HP Envy - The Computer is Personal Again.
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 10 – –
News
Fashion finds a new forum When the last model has ascended the runway, the lights and visuals are turned off and backstage areas are cleared after this season’s fashion week, a new forum for fashion will emerge.
CIFF www.ciff.dk
The online fashion platform Fashion Forum has been created for people who work in the fashion industry. The site has been initiated by the Fashion Zone and will feature in-depth articles and analysis of the fashion industry domestically and internationally.
The Night Shift
Copenhagen Insider – Ulla Hvid-Hansen
Words Susanne Madsen One hates to moan at such a late stage of fashion week, but hell, who are we kidding? Fashion month equals an unrivalled bitch fest and let’s just get one thing straight: nothing induces more wrath than a poorly orchestrated show schedule. And this week, the offending items are the late night escapades. With shows scheduled for 10 and 11pm (and we know all too well those will easily incur an hour’s delay on top) you begin to wonder if anyone would like to garner any business from their shows? The mind boggles, really. Are we attending a show? Or a party? And do midnight hour shows have just the faintest whiff of self-indulgent “we’re so cool and successful and important – let’s just have a vanity show for our friends”? Perhaps it’s only boring, diligent newspaper journalists and punctual bloggers who think a show should preferably end in time for making trivial things such as deadlines, but surely buyers are also more willing to visit a showroom – not to mention spending money – on something they remember seeing with a clear head? Or do Copenhageners think you’re more likely to get a glowing review from a writer who’s just desperate to get copy filed quickly so he or she can make it back to Skt. Petri’s fluffy beds? If that’s the case, oh, let’s count the ways you don’t know writers (although this little rant should, by now, have given you a vague idea): out of everyone in the industry – apart perhaps from show producers – fashion writers have the absolute shortest fuse ever and always think we’re too good to wait around, queue or go to shows late at night in the middle of nowhere. So, here’s a novel idea: why don’t we start the day at 9 AM next season and finish at a more deadline-friendly and school-night-appropriate hour? This radical concept seems to work well in cities such as Paris and London – why don’t we give it a try, kids? Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Director at DANSK
Where to go, what to do if you have a little time between shows and fashion fairs? DANSK Daily gives you a couple of insider tips from Copenhagen personalities.
Rozanna
Bicycle bandido Cykelbanditten is the one and only store in DK that sells Create Bikes. You can get the 2010 model mainstream fixie in 5 different variations – riding it feels like flying. Fix me up, please! Søvgade 89, 1307 Copenhagen
Stine Goya print AW10
If you think fashion week is just about shows, people & parties, you are only halfway right. It’s also an important platform for business. A fact CPH Vision and Terminal-2 have taken seriously by initiating a variety of additional steps to their fashion fairs to attract more than 30,000 buyers from around the world, solidifying the success of fashion week. Initiatives include a new heritage segment, themed events and show areas, exotic locations and a MyFashionWeek travel internet portal to name a few. So toss that champagne bottle and get to work. Now. cphvision.dk
Coffee & Veggie Burger My favorite area of Copenhagen is Nørrebro, especially the area around Skt. Hans Torv. This multi cultural melting pot contains everything from upcoming designers, bars and restaurants to ethnic green grocers. Start by picking up a latte to go at Kaffeplantagen strolling down the street to visit small designer shops. End your day with lunch at Bodega, where you can try their fabulous new veggie burger. Tour the Canals If you only have time for one thing in Copenhagen, let it be a tour around the canals. There is always something special about seeing everything from the waterside. If you take the boat off-season, you might be lucky enough that the guide has time to tell you some soon-to-be-forgotten anecdotes from old Copenhagen. Remember to put on your warmest coat, as it can get a little chilly out there. Copenhagen cocktails When you go out for cocktails, you should not miss K Bar. The letter K stands for “København Kærlighed Kocktails” (Copenhagen, love, cocktails). This really says it all. The award-winning owner is famous for making her own vodka extracts. If you do not find the perfect cocktail on the menu, ask the bartender. The last time I was there I had a seductive Lavender Martini.
Magic number 15
Fashion means business
Ulla is the designer of her own strictly dress brand WEIZ, which she sells out of her little shop in Guldbergsgade. And yes, that’s her pet parrot Gubi on her shoulder! Weiz.dk
A group of Scandinavian designers have decided to join forces in a brand new initiative to create an online shop, which, besides selling great fashion, also offers styling and trend tips. Never before have so many otherwise competing brands come together to reach out to fashionistas in Scandinavia and abroad. Their combined worlds of young energy, timeless style and high fashion give shoppers a unique chance to explore, compare and purchase fashionable styles. The launch of fashionfifteen.com will be celebrated online with fifteen giveaways to the first fifteen customers. Also, fifteen competitions to win great prizes from the new SS10 collections will run the first 15 days. Bruuns Bazar, BZR, Margit Brandt, Sand, Noir, Tiger of Sweden, Ganni, Karen by Simonsen, Munthe plus Simonsen, Tusnelda Bloch, Rosemunde and Samsoe Samoe are part of the newly launched website. fashionfifteen.com
Fashion Forum will essentially work as a news media and business review site, and will publish business news, debate blogs and in-depth articles as well as people and business profiles. “We’ll put a strong emphasis on having professional journalists and writers communicate the material. Our ambition is to create a website that people in the industry will check several times every day,” says Fashion Forum editor-in-chief, Carla Christine Bruus Strube. FashionForum.dk will launch on February 14th, fashionforum.dk
VENUE AT BELLA CENTER DANSK Daily fuel Fact: Beer is the new champagne of fashion. DANSK Daily couldn’t live without (and has partly been fuelled by) Kronenbourg 1664
CIFF
KIDS www.ciff.dk
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 12 – – Focus – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Sacha Maric –
Nordics Unite! Paris Fashion Week - only for French designers? Not at all. Unfortunately, the opposite seems to be true for the Nordic countries, where fashion weeks have popped up in every capital. Wise or not so wow? It seems only reasonable that Copenhagen should have a fashion week for mainly Danish brands and that Stockholm should focus on Swedish brands. Each city hosting its own fashion week and each doing its part in mapping European fashion. “The idea that Stockholm needs a fashion week for the Swedishlooking designers, and Copenhagen needs one for the Danish-looking designers, is kind of silly. Kind of provincial. Definitely not visionary”, says Jacob Brown, editor of the ultra cool V Magazine. Harsh words, no doubt, especially because they carry in them an element of truth.A truth concerning how fashion from the high North is percieved by the world - and how the Nordic countries could optimize their fashion profiles. Because whether the clothes come from Denmark, Sweden or Norway, they are more likely to be labelled ‘Scandinavian’ by an international corps of buyers and fashion press. Within these countries, any collection will appear very different, displaying design traits that can be traced back specifically to each country. But from an international perspective, none of those differences hold up - it is somehow all Scandinavian! According to Jacob Brown, there is one obvious solution: join forces! “Between all of the Scandinavian countries, there is a tremendous amount of fashion creativity and commerce. Brought together, it would support a true international fashion week that could compete with London. Split apart, it is nothing.” A similar view is shared by Eva Kruse, director of Danish Fashion Institute, which is the independent organization behind Copenhagen Fashion Week. “If we really want to show our creative potential, we essentially need to pool our resources. As one region, we can close in on becoming one of the main players on the global atlas of fashion”, she explains. According to Eva Kruse, it is not about being able to attract
IvanaHelsinki (FI)
Bruuns Bazaar (DK)
minimarket (SE)
FIN (NO)
Striding towards a united fashion experience
major brands or names to show in Scandinavia - it’s more about focusing on the real strenghts of fashion from the North. “Denmark and Sweden both have strong fashion industries and brands. Flanked by the creative potential from Norway and Finland, we could build a really strong and internationally interesting platform - for buyers and press alike”.
We already have an established fashion week with really strong trade fairs, brands, shows and international press”.
Who, what, where, when? The prospect of uniting the Scandinavian fashion forces brings up a variety of questions.
Additionally, Copenhagen is an easily accesible international hub, with great infrastructure and plenty of accomodation. Copenhagen would be the natural and obvious place for a fashion week united. The possibilities for a joined fashion effort are endless. The important first step in the process is to change the mindset of the Scandinavian fashion industry.
First up: location. For Eva Kruse the best location for a single crossScandinavian fashion festival is Copenhagen. ”Copenhagen is the gateway to the rest of Scandinavia – especially when it comes to fashion.
Eva Kruse elaborates, ”This is an open invitation the other Scandinavian fashion markets to start a dialogue about the process. This is not about national interests – it is about making the strongest
possible reason for the world to come to Scandinavia to see, buy and write about our fashion. If we don’t, I’m afraid none of the markets stand a chance. But together we can create a unique story and selling point!” Or, in the words of Jacob Brown, ”There is an expression, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts”. In the case of the Scandinavian fashion weeks, the sum of the parts is small on a global level. But combined into a whole, a single Scandinavian fashion week could be quite a force to reckon with. So, here at the close of Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W 2010, join DANSK Daily in saying the words that will help define our fashion future: Nordics unite!
gallery — stand no. 96
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 14 – – Vilsbøl de Arce – Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
The bold are the beautiful
On a stage that literally breathed in time with music especially composed for the show by Sophia Maj, Vilsbøl de Arce presented their autumn/ winter collection at Pakhus 11 Thursday after midnight. Big, white moving pieces surrounded the stage like a skeleton, and complemented the body-themed pieces. In their own words, designers Prisca Vilsbøl and Pia de Arce have made a collection that vibrates with bodily ambience by stripping down the human form. Their inspiration clearly showed in the designs, where bodies were literally turned inside out. Bodystockings and blouses with bulky shoulders, and stomach regions looking like muscles, called to mind the famous exhibition BODIES, a celebration of the wonder of the human form. A perfectly fitted jacket with leather sleeves cut up like tendons and a light knitted dress with a backpiece resembling ribs kept the designs in the visual field of anatomy. Other sensational pieces included a daring leather skirt shaped like thigh muscles, and a beige dress constructed after the skeletal structure. Very avant-garde, very bold and very beautiful. Vilsbøl de Arce have taken their design in a direction that gets more and more wearable without ever losing sight of the label’s distinct design DNA, one that always seeks to challenge the medium of fashion. Their unconventional silhouettes and sculptural characteristics deal Danish fashion a strong hand of cards.
Leggings
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Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 16 – – Frost Birgens – Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
Lumberjack luscious
Frost Birgens made its runway debut in Copenhagen this fashion week. Designer Jakob Birgens, who started his now Copenhagen-based brand in Århus in 2007, decided to show his AW10 collection at the Gallery Scene, an apt choice. The toned down surroundings suited the laid back style of the label. The collection was dominated by knitting used in chunky turtlenecks, classic cardigans, loose-fitted pants - for the very daring man – and the perfect winter accessory, a scarf and hat combined in one. Suede, velvet, twill and raw canvas was used for shirts and chinos, and no matter if you’re the lumberjack dude styling it up or the preppy guy working it with a twist, you´ll find something at Frost Birgens. Lumberjack boys can go classy with nicely fitted jacket kept casual by a rounded cut, and preppy guys will be able to satisfy their appetite for pretty wardrobe with a twist in the collarless white shirts and details like big buttons on a sweater and huge patches on the chinos. Standout items were a pair of loose-fitted chequered pants and cardigans in ribbed knits. Frost Birgens provides the autumn wardrobe with some neat pieces easy to style in different directions. Overall, the collection has a cool, unconcerned spirit, and sometimes that’s all you need to make it just right.
Margit Brandt – Words Stinne Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
Enter the sexy secretary
Sultry music and a hint of smoke set the mood for the red pouted, perky Margit Brand vixens at City Hall. The feminine elegance of forties Film Noir intermingled with eighties power dressing and sense of exaggeration in both attitude and accessories. The result was sexysweet secretary meets Bianca Jagger /nightclub queen in a very wearable way. It was all about legs as most dresses, skirts and winter shorts stopped mid-thigh. Pants cropped just above the ankle gave the impression of long limps and even the floor length evening gowns had slits, letting the legs peep through. The collection offered a broad variety of dresses for every mood and occasion – all simple with a touch of detailing like zippers, open backs or wraps. The short coats were cool and the knit looked cozy. Of course leather was present in the collection – as super tight pants, a couple of sexy dresses and slim jackets. Other than that shiny satin silk, a sort of coated jersey, a little lace and see-through mesh made the list. Besides black (surprise!), colors were downplayed green, grey, camel and brown using lavender as a bright splash here and there, for a cohesive Brandt vision of next year’s wardrobe.
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 17 – – Stine Goya – Words Rozanna Fritz Photo Sacha Maric –
Fashion in a barren landscape
Stine Goya presented her A/W collection La Ville Fantome late Thursday evening for a huge crowd at the Gallery show scene. The models entered the runway in front of the framework of a house to a soft remake of Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton’s county classic “Islands in the Stream”. Goya’s new collection was inspired by the landscape photographer Ansel Adams, whose images, as Goya describes them, are “truly striking in their portrayal of barren yet dramatic” landscapes. And if you are aware of his work, you could see a clear connection in the collection. The items also captured a masculine structure in terms of the leered styling, with cool hats worn by all the models, jackets and trousers, juxtaposed with feminine flares in Goya’s use of gold buttons, dots, zippers, and jewelry by Sophie Bille Brahe. Heavy draped fabrics and softly structured pieces were key items in the collection. The signature this season was deeply pleated trousers, heavy structured knits, long skirts and casual leather, underlining the interplay of the luxuries. Rather than focusing on prints, the color palette this time revolved around dusty earth tones such as black, grey, cognac, brown, pink and white. Goya always manage to create a unique show, in which the connection between the stage installation, styling, music, and clothing pulls it all together. Once again, she showed that she’s got the X-factor, with or without prints.
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 18 – – By Malene Birger – Words Stinne Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
Simplicity sells
Fin – Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
Picture perfect
A broad runway covered in fall leaves with lots of room for the models to strut their stuff set the frame for a different, more simple By Malene Birger collection. Birger refrained from her usual heavy use of eye-catching accessories and styling, and let the clothes speak for themselves. The silhouette of next season seemed heavy on top with loose-fitted shirts, wide coats and fluffy fur vests (hence the animal-rights demo at the entrance), and tight below, with slim line leather pants. Colors kept to the cool, bright scale of grey, beige and whites, using dusty green and oversize leopard prints as a feature. The overall look resembled a cool Sharon Stone in the late eighties oversize coats, white dresses and expensive blouses updated by animal prints and smiley models.
The first piece entering the stage at the Fin show at the Gallery scene was the picture of perfection. A floor-lenght tight gown with a tie-string creating a light trail channeled a Nordic goddess. Creating dresses is overall what the Norwegian brand does best. Even though simple designs the cuts make them utterly sexy, like a waterfall on the back of a dress or little peepholes in the middle of a sleeve showing just the right amount of skin. Like last season, FIN used draping to give the simple dresses cockiness to steal the party thunder, but also a plain beige dress with silver pattern and a short one strap dress resembling a mummy wrapping made one long for cocktail parties and late daring nights. Even a simple grey dress perfect for a day at the office stood out because of the asymmetric cut and the flowery material used for a bit of the skirt. FIN showed a colourpalette with petroleum, blue and beige as the main colors. Black was used for a cool fitted leather jacket styled as the perfect contrast to the light dresses. For whatever reason FIN decided to show a couple of dresses on male models. Strange, but maybe dresses still looking sexy on a man shows, that FIN is on to something really good. Male models or not, FIN’s design has an effortless feel, that will suit every woman’s wardrobe.
Forum Copenhagen www.gallery.dk
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 20 – – YDE – Word Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Sacha Maric –
Luxury twister
The setting for the second YDE show was the prestigious flagship store of Georg Jensen in the heart of Copenhagen, which has partnered with Ole Yde to present this season’s collection. From the beginning of the show, the mood was set on elegance and iconic grace with classical music accompanying the first look: a silk-pleated organza shawl blouse combined with a glittery draped skirt. But the vision of 40s movie star elegance withered as the music morphed into electronic beats. Before the eyes of a star-studded fashion audience, the YDE collection revealed that AW10 will not go retro, despite the strong 40s screen diva influences. Rather, the look was modern and contemporary. Knitwear made to look like a biker jacket, a leather skirt with fur inserts and silk organza looking like metal created a stunning but practically unfathomable twist, making YDE’s über elegance look pretty – but not too pretty!
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 21 – – Gudrun & Gudrun – Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric –
Knits in all shapes and sizes
Dressed in a knitted white dress resembling a sparkling swan, the singer Aura took the stage with her guitar, singing like the pure running water of Faroese rivers. The song created just the right mood for the show from the Faroese designer duo Gudrun & Gudrun, who specialize in exclusive hand-knits. The show at City Hall was divided into womenswear Gudrun & Gudrun and the men’s collection G & G Men. The women’s wardrobe was dominated by spider knits, used in miniskirts, dresses and tops, showing that knits can be light as a feather. Sweaters were made with different types of knit textures, giving energy to a fairly ordinary cut. The men’s collection was more versatile, showing chunky cable knit, light knitted tank tops and bulky knits used for cardigans, made cool with lots of gaps – all styled with leather pants. Connoisseurs of Gudrun & Gudrun would recognize the design, made extremely popular by the leading role in the Danish TV-series The Killing. The white pattern on a brown background was used for a dress for the ladies and a sweater for the gentlemen. The show showed all the different aspects of knit, remaining faithful to the label’s roots, but still with a strong innovative streak.
The collection was a compilation of the most luxurious of fabrics – no cotton in sight! The runway overflowed with silk, cashmere, chiffon, leather, fur and lace. The signature color was black, but a row of golden girls and hints of burgundy red made their appearance as well. The strength of the collection lies in a glamorous elegance marked by an ever so subtle ’off-ness,’ which manifests the modernity and talent of YDE.
Karen By Simonsen – Words Rikke Dyrholm Photo Sacha Maric –
As the words Kiss Me repeatedly hit one’s ears and an Andy Warholinspired movie played a pair of full red lips, showing you around in the big city, ready to conquer the world, you felt the 60s had re-emerged. The second collection by Karen By Simonsen’s hands revealed a broad and experienced grasp of fashion. She managed to pause the never ending story of constantly changing fashion trends and showed the spectator that everything is possible – your style, your choice.
Kiss me, Karen
Nevertheless, the theme of the show was written with an eye on 60s it-glam girls Twiggy and Edie Sedgwick. Long-legged models strolled down the runway wearing leather miniskirts, peep-toe boots, hippie-style floppy hats, short knitted dresses, ponchos, trench coats and windy wavy hair – the glamorous chic collection contained it all. The color scale ranged from Nordic nature hues like grey/brown/black, to 60s popping green, blue, and turquoise patterns. In addition to the colors, the textures unveiled everything from traditional knit and leather to silk and metallic materials. Karen By Simonsen sure knows how to flatter the female figure. If you didn’t have a dream when arriving the show – you sure had one leaving.
Beyond the collection’s comtemporary take on 19th century stiff gentlemen’s tailoring - addressing both genders - standout details like golden safety pins, white knee socks, lacquered boots and a pervasive one gloved look made you wonder – maybe he’s celebrating another great legend as well. The collection contained tightly fitted chinos, short riding inspired tuxedo jackets, shirts with ruffles and frills, and traditional vests held in a black, white and red scale, which led your mind to wander in the direction of fox hunting. When the models entered wearing medals toward the end of the show, it seemed clear that the winner of the fox hunt was Mr. Andersen himself.
HUGO BOSS Nordic ApS Phone +45 33 188000 www.hugoboss.com
Dear Mr. Andersen
David Andersen’s debut on the show scene seemed to render an interpretation of some of the most respected characters in 19th century English litterature. As the models marched down the runway wielding canes and wearing stiff gentlemen hats, memories of Mr. Fitzwilliam Darcys’ courting Elizabeth Bennet in the famous Jane Austen novel Pride and Prejudice were evoked.
BOSS Black
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 22 – – David Andersen – Words Rikke Dyrholm Photo Sacha Maric –
Opening soon BOSS Store Copenhagen Østergade 15
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 24 – – minimarket – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Sacha Maric –
Saturate our senses
Like the winter wardrobes of years past, the AW10 collections of this fashion week were dominated by black and gray, and not that there’s anything wrong with that but oh what a relief to see minimarket - this season’s lone Swedish invasion - electrify City Hall Friday night with a splendiforous plethora of fruit hues, totemist patterns, bonkers makeup and slap-in-thatmonochrome-face attitude. Workin’ it. This time around, the minimarketeers reenvisioned their multicolored girly attire as a tribute to the Native American belief in totemism, the faith in the animals and spirits that grace totem poles. Entering through a stick teepee in the same fruity hues as the pieces themselves, the models – faces painted in carnivalesque warrior makeup – strutted down the runway to jaunty music in ray-of-winter-sunshine outfits, some in color blocks of peach, purple and mango, others in variations of doodem (the word from which totem is derived, meaning clan) patterns. Beaded bracelets and belts, in addition to purses, showed how minimarket is prepared to pack some serious accessories punch. Can’t wait to see what’s in store for us next season.
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 25 – – Look of the Day – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Annemie by Dreves –
Off-Screen Diva The Look The makeup contrasts with the 30s and 40s silver screen diva look of the clothes. The colors have been tampered with ever so slighty to create a sickly (in the coolest way possible) and slightly off look. The skin has gotten a cool tone, the eyebrows have been brushed and highlighted with a white eye pencil and eyes and lips have been lined with a brandy brown liner giving them an queasy cool appearance. It is a classic look which has been twisted into not looking too right. Show: YDE Place: Georg Jensen Flagship Store Makeup by Max Factor
Key Products Max Factor Colour Perfection Eyeliner 30 Cognac – For that almost sick look Max Factor Colour Collections Lipstick Coffee toffee 785 – Classic but slightly twisted lip color Max Factor Colour Collections Lipstick So berry 765 – For those covetable cherry lips
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 26 – – V.I.P. – Very Important Powerpuffgurlz – Photos Simon B. Mørch & Anders von Greffelstejn Words Magnus Jorem –
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 27 – – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses – Photo Simon B. Mørch Words Magnus Jorem –
Dressing the divas of Denmark, Ole Yde has quickly risen to be a highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week. This season, he teamed up with silver house Georg Jensen for a spectacular high society fashion extravaganza.
Copenhagen Fashion Week wouldn’t be Copenhagen Fashion Week without Stine Goya and Vilsbøl de Arce to push the envelope on our fall wardrobes. Their shows and events Thursday night were packed with diehard fans of outfit extravagance.
YDE at Georg Jensen
Goya/Vilsbøl extravaganza
Countess Cath Danneskiold-Samsøe is bonkers for yellow pentagonal fashion event treats, let’s hope Style Counsel’s Kim Grenaa doesn’t notice.
Totally top cool super DJ Jean von Baden got himself a sleek little super delicious fashion week mustache and totally enjoyed the Ole Yde slash Georg Jensen event cause it was just the bomb and really really cool and like hey fuck it’s fashion week yay!
DANSK Daily’s editor-in-chief Mikkel Hyldebrandt joins Frolicmunchin’ Copenhagen Fashion Week manager Anne Christine Persson and actor Peter Frødin for a colgate-teeth moment.
Ole Yde enjoying the fruits of his success.
International fashion icon Colin McDowell hugs his muse Fernanda.
Designer Jean Phillip is all about dark and mysterious atmospheres.
The hardest working woman in fashion week, Rozanna Fritz, was simply dancing with joy!
Magazine’s Jacob Brown expresses his heartfelt satisfaction. See you at Eastern Bloc or Christiania or Stockholm or someplace!
It’s a grotesque understatement to say that fashion BFF’s Eva Kruse and Didder Rønlund are front row regulars.
Uhm hello like I’m Simon friggin Rasmussen the fashion stylist and my iPhone is more important than your silly camera. Naw, shucks, under my shades I’m a nice guy.
We couldn’t quite capture the name of this cute bowtied chap but we’re sure he’s some high power fashion blogger.
Henrik and Andreas were slipping down a spiral situation at the Vilsbøl event but still had time to give the camera man a skeptical-yet-flirtatious look.
The exquisite beauty in the middle joined Jan Terri megafan Andree Hoxfeldt and Chris Pedersen, the king of all things jailhouse, for the YDE/ Jensen experience.
Furocious Sarah Stenfeldt of 2PM models has a lead role not only in fashion week, but in the minds of pubescent and post-pubescent straight boys everywhere. At least according to DANSK Daily’s driver.
Enjoying your nine-inch cocktail time a little too much? UNACCEPTABLE! I have never in my life yelled at a boy like this before! When the mother of Beyoncé yells at me like this, it’s because she loves me. I was rooting for you, we were all rooting for you!
Susanne Rützou mingled with her Georg Jensen pals.
Bornholmian pop songstress Aura’s partner in crime, the mysterious Ole Yde-fan known only as Zaura.
Susanne Bjerrehuus looked like a Georg Jensen figurine with her exquisite bone structure and impeccable posture.
Sporting the longest lushest lashes this fashion week, Kenny Alexander enjoyed his Goya sexytime with actress Mathilde Cocco Nordholdt.
DAFI’s Stine Hedegaard enjoyed the company of Chanelesque fashion empress Didder Rønlund.
In no time, Dutch power-interns Maaike and Jolien have conquered the Vibskovian Copenhagen universe with their sartorial charms and, more importantly, picture-perfect faces.
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 28 – – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –
minimarket front row fabulous
Dansk Daily AW10 Saturday 13.02.10 – PG. 29 – – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –
minimarket juiced up City Hall with a sassy array of totem-inspired autumn/winter pieces.
Silas Soulland, Emma and Anders are the happeningest threesome in City Hall.
Upcoming designer Gaia sought inspiration at the Swedish miracle show!
DANSK Daily’s Rozanna Fritz and Magnus Jorem will not be the victims of silly captions.
Cute girls have all the fun!
Acne Champagen reception – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Anders von Greffelstejn – Random fashionistas taking a look at the models.
Acne Classic
Between all its mountains and fjords, Norway also has designers - here, Veronica B Vallenes.
From DC to New York, Paris to Copenhagen, Nathalia Rachlin is all around.
Maria was crazy about the candy shop colored minimarket collection.
Walk, walk fashion baby, werk it, move that betch crazy.
Windows®. Life without Walls™. HP recommends Windows 7.
OFW RunWay PROgRam OFW FebRuaRy 16Th – 19Th. Tuesday February 16th.
Wednesday February 17th.
Thursday February 18th.
Friday February 19th.
Official opening night.
17.00 hrs. Armando Santos. Venue: Galleri Format Oslo
17.00 hrs. Flinga Clothing
17.00 hrs. Kristar Design
18.00 hrs. Soyaaulait
18.00 hrs. Epilogue
19.00 hrs. iiS by Siv Elise Seland
19.00 hrs. Leila Hafzi
20.00 hrs. Vatle
22.00 hrs. Moods of Norway. Venue: Fabrikkhallen.
18.00 hrs Seasons Debutant Designer Nordic Design goes NICE DesignerKollektivet HENNE Magazine Nåløyet Award Venue: Main arena OKS, Youngsgate. 11
18.00 hrs. Venti Uno 19.00 hrs. Tina H 21.00 hrs. Fam Irvoll
22.00 hrs. WeSC. Venue: Folketeateret
OslO TRade FaiRs 15Th - 21sT. moteuka, norsk moteforum
Oslo Fashion Fair
Sjølyst plass 3, Oslo, February 15th - 21st, Opening hours 09.00 - 19.00. www.moteuka.no.
Drammensveien 130, Skøyen, February 16th - 18th, Opening hours 10.00 - 18.00. www.oslofashionfair.no
Oslo showroom network
agencies
February 15th. – 21st. Booking by request with agent in network.
Blender Agency, Diesel, Grim Retail, Gulbrandsen Agencies, Helly Hansen, Holzweiler Agenturer, IC Company, Ikonic, Kaare Lund, Moods of Norway, Nudie Jeans Co, Riccovero, Scar Agency, Seaport, Syversen, WeSC
Show Schedule Saturday Feb. 13
SHOWS 15.00 Designers’ Nest Building 55, DGI-Byen, Staldgade 55, Copenhagen V By invitation only 16.00 Kea x Souvanni Asmussen The Bumble and Bumble Scene at Gallery, Forum, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 20.00 Wood Wood Hotel D’Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, Copenhagen K By invitation only 21.00 Bibi Ghost Pumpehuset, Studiestrædet 52, Copenhagen V By invitation only 22.00 Pop cph Samadhi Spa, Nørregade 18, 1., Copenhagen K By invitation only
22.00-02.00 Wood Wood Party Den Røde Pimpernel, Berstoffgade 3, Copenhagen K Wood Wood presents a night of sleaze, sweat & crack. By invitation only
14.00-18.99 Artrebels Wine Event Artrebels Showhome, Flæsketorvet 19-21, Meatpacking District, Copenhagen V Open to all
23.00-04.00 Flying A/Gallery/Unique! Jazz House Night Club, Niels Hemmingsens Gade 10, Copenhagen K Flying A, Gallery International Fashion Fair & Unique Models give you a unique experience in the art of gallery and fun By invitation only
10.00-18.00 OTHER//First Hotel Skt. Petri Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Cph K Fashion Week´s favourite hotel, First Hotel Skt. Petri, celebrates style with three exciting fashion films. Be there and expand your inner encyclopedia. Thursday: Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton (2007), Friday: Lagerfeld Confidential (2007), Saturday: Victor and Rolf - Because We’re Worth It! (2008). Open to all
COFF EVENTS 8.30-18.00 Conditori La Glace Presents Rikkemai Skoubogade 3, Copenhagen K A unique collaboration between La Glace and Rikkemai Open to all 9.30-19.00 Sing Tehus Meets Monocle Magazine Skindergade 25, Copenhagen k Enjoy graphic designs made by art director Richards Spencer Powell, while having a cup of tea
CFW INSIDE 20.30-04.00 Bibi Ghost After Tea Studiestrade 52, Copenhagen V A show, a battle and a party By invitation only 21.00-02.00 Fashion Week Party First Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K
11.00-16.00 Vero Moda Very & Very Small Pop-up Happening Hay House, Østergade 61, Copenhagen K Open to all 12.00-17.00 Pre-Opening of Diana Brinks Store Peder Hvitfeldst Straede 6, Copenhagen K Diana Brinks presents a pre-opening of her new store VS. Diana Brinks Open to all
14.00-15.00 OTHER// ILLUM Meet the queen of Danish Fashion Didder Rønlund Illum, 3rd floor, Østergade 52, Copenhagen K In the book shop on the third floor in ILLUM, you can meet Danish fashion’s grand old lady, Didder Rønlund, who will be signing her autobiography ‘Hele mit liv på høje hæle’ from 14-15:00 – the book can be purchased at a 20% discount for 199 DKK while supplies last. Open to all
ENVY
13
THE TECHNOLOGY OF LUXURY. HP and Copenhagen Fashion Week
It is no coincidence that HP is a natural part of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Just like fashion people, HP always keeps an eye on design and fashion to exploit emerging trends for all of us who think that a laptop is more than just ”prêt a porter”. So what is it that makes the ultra-portable HP ENVY pc so enviable? Is it the laser engraved aluminum housing? The extra-long battery life? The elegant balance between mobility and superior strength? Or is it really just the perfect combination of form and function?
Judge for yourself. Then visit hp.dk/vind and tell us what makes you green with envy. You may just end up winning one! © 2009 Hewlett-Packard Development Company, L.P. The information contained herein is subject to change without notice. Windows is a trademark of the Microsoft group of companies. This system may require upgraded and/or separately purchased hardware and/or a DVD drive to install the Windows 7 software and take full advantage of Windows 7 functionality. See http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/ for details. HP February 2010.
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