stefanie kรถnig DALE noreg remote place(s) a subjective atlas spring 2016
dale i sunnfjord 61°21’48.6”N 5°23’52.1”E dale valley valle tal a valley is surrounded by something, mostly by mountains. dale i sunnfjord is a little bit different and more spectacular valley. it is not only surrounded by few mountains. it is divided by a river and enclosed by a amazing fjord. in germany it is not usual to have choppy water, green meadows and huge mountains with a lot of snow at the top at the same time. the second unusual thing is that villages with 3000 inhabitants don´t have a library, a shopping centre, several food stores, a petrol station and a cafe. can you say that dale is a remote place? it is quite far away from bergen and other bigger cities in norway. but maybe for the inhabitants dale is the centre of norway or to be exaggerated of the world. it also almost absurd that no one knows dale but at the same time there is the nordic artists’ centre which now and then disturbs the quietness of dale with art projects in the whole village. so having a closer look dale is not only a valley.
5 | a subjective atlas
where is the right dale?
(plan)
finding the “right” dale wasn’t that easy. there are several dale in norway. close to bergen there is a dale known for their wool pullovers. but 110 km further away there is a dale which is laying in the sunnfjord, one of the biggest fjords in the western coast of norway. but don´t let yourself irritate. it doesn’t mean that this a sunny fjord. in norwegian it means the southern fjord. however you can see there spectacular waterfalls and beautiful mountains. a perfect touristic region. a bergen b false dale c right dale
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c
110 km
b
a
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landscape
(plan)
the dalsfjord carve a big gab in the landscape. one cut is more precise. at this site you have big mountains with almost 800m difference between the sea and the tops. the other cut is more blurred. the opposite coast rises slowly and has more inlets. one part of this side seemed to flew away and established a small island in the middle of the fjord which is covered by forest. the dalsfjord separates also two communes, askvoll and fjaler. in the second one dale is sitting close to the water looking to the huge mountains on the other side and being surrounded by smaller hills on the own side. a askvoll b nonsholten [752m] c fløyen [761m] d dalsfjord e dalsøyna f fjaler g dale
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a
c
b
d
e g
f
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cleavage
(plan)
the dalsfjord creates a large gap and vigorous coast lines. there are two approximations on both side which are connected by the dalsfjordbrua. on the southern land there is a hollow where dale is situated and which ends with an unpopulated spit of land. a dalsfjord b approximations c dale i sunnfjord d unpopulated spit of land
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b b
a
d
c
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view to north sea
(section)
what you will feel if you know that you are so close to the open, endless sea but cannot see it? you cannot even see the horizon. your view to the north sea is impeded by high mountains rising out of the water which are seemed to swallow the sun each evening. you can only imagine the mouth of the dalsfjord where it ends in the endlessness. a brotegga [188m] b vindeimskletten [214m]
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b
a
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dalsfjordbrua
(elevation)
a connection between the two coasts of the dalsfjord was long awaited. nowadays it is a landmark of the two communes askvoll and fjaler. the concrete road is 523m long and ends in both sides into darkness. some meters further there seems to be a roundabout in the hill. a roundabout in a hill? if you are staying on the bridge and looking to the east you can the see a huge and amazing waterfall. is this where the water of dalsfjord is coming from? a dalsfjord b dalsfjordbrua c mouth of darkness d gjotedalen [187m]
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d
c
a
b
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valley
(perspective)
close to the fjord a valley is sheltered by several mountains in a finely shaped delta like a finely shaped body of a women. your eye is soaked into the end of this delta. what will happen there? are they only mountains? and what happens with the river dalselva? in the opposite direction it divides the valley into two pieces and opens its mouth to the fjord also in a shape of a delta. a dale b dalselva c dalsfjorden d øvstestølen [318m] e furekambane [310m] f ristinga [188m] g vikakletten [168m] h jarstadüsen [243m]
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h
f
e g
b
d
a
c
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river mouth
(model)
where the river dalselva flows into the fjord it opens its mouth and a bigger teeth appears. the river goes into the deepness of the fjord. behind there are smooth mountains letting a small gap. is there the beginning of the water? to the right side the landscape is falling down. maybe there was one part breaking off, now flowing in the water as an island. a river mouth b lonely teeth c deepness of fjord b surrounding hills c gap between hills d falling down landscape
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d
d
e a b c
f
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c
a
secret caves
(model)
towards the fjord the terrain is falling down. besides there seems to be a hidden cave. maybe there is a cached treasure. above that there is a cliff. it seems to be suitable for paragliding or just to have a great view over the fjord. further inland there are some protecting clefts where you can shelter against intense wind on the tops of the mountains comparing to the big exposed plateau further above. on the right side of a plateau a tiny tunnel leads into two other small caves. a falling landscape b hidden caves c cliff with amazing view d protecting clefts e exposed plateau f tunnel leading into g caves
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e
d f
g g
b
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a
wrinkles
(model)
on the left there is a big crater making deep wrinkles into the terrain. these wrinkles continue their way almost until the other side of the valley. the left hill slopes slowly and ends in a small strip between itself and the gap of the river. on the other side of the river there is a bigger plateau. maybe you can find there civilization. where the plateau ends another hill arise. but this time more steeper. it seems that this hill isn’t maybe the safest one. beneath it threatening cracks are lurking inside the mountain. a big crater b deep wrinkles c landscape strip d gap of the river e civilized plateau f threatening cracks
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e
c d
b
f
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a
trolls
(model)
are trolls really existing? if yes, maybe you find some in this cave. it is not looking like a natural one, more than a synthesized one. it goes really deep. maybe at the end of the cave they hide their treasures. besides the troll cave the landscape looks quite silent. there is a big plateau on the top which slopes slowly towards the fjord. shortly before the hills sinks in the water there is a small strip where maybe humans have their overground caves. a troll cave b silent plateau c human stripe
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b
c
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twins
(plan)
dale is marked by a pair of twins who wriggle through the valley. the one twin arise by several tributaries and lakes and disappears in the big dalsfjord. the other one starts almost 140 km earlier and includes two ferry routes. in the opposite direction it merge with an european sibling which runs from denmark to trondheim. a several tributaries and lakes [2,4km] b river dalselva ends in dalsfjord d begin of riksveg 57 [133km] d european route 39 [30km]
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d b
a
c
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score
(plan)
driving along riksveg 57 from south to north b one quiet noise comes from left d youth group is exercising on the left e chaotic improvisation thud from left g completely quietness hits from left
a
few tones appear on the right side c
f
orchestra plays on the right side technical sounds coming from right
g last hushing sounds on the right side
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h
g f
e
d
c
b a
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meeting net
(plan)
where the inhabitants of dale are meeting each other? there is a private marina at the coast of dale. maybe there the rich inhabitants of dale are meeting at the weekend. beside there is a touristic marina which could be overrun in summer. on the other side of the river there is a bigger net of meeting points. especially the centre of dale could be the best place for communicate, shop and meet in dale. on sunday the most inhabitants maybe meet each other in the church close to the river. for the older generation the health centre in east of dale is maybe the meeting point number 1. a private marina b touristic marina c church and cemetery d village centre e health centre
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a
f
b d
c
e
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entrance
(plan)
the entrance of dale isn’t a part of the meeting net. there are only several houses row in one line on the right side of the riksveg 57. they have their own access roads which makes them more reclosed. on the other side there is only one bunch of houses which seem to belong together. there is nothing in the closer surrounding so that you maybe feel yourself really remote here. a riksveg 57 b row of houses c own access road d bunch of houses
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c
d
c
c
b a
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exit
(plan)
while leaving the meeting net on the other side of dale there aren’t houses anymore right on the riksveg 57. you have to first enter a side road if you want to reach the last houses of dale hanging on a branch which ends with two last houses. the exit of dale means also an end of the overground street. now you have to enter a bears’ den to continue your way. a riksveg 57 b branch of last houses c entrance of a bears’s den
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c
b
a
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b
a
e
green areas
c
f
(map)
if you cut out the green areas of dale you can find different sizes. there are smaller ones close to the fjord and the village centre. the green area around the church seems to be the green heart of dale. following the river away from the centre the green areas are getting bigger. there are two areas belonging to two residential areas. the last one is the biggest one surrounded only from few houses. this could be the place for farming in dale. a pull the boat out of the water b have a break during working in offices c walk soundless between silent graves d take place while waiting for bus e go for a walk with the dog f play after school on meadow g plant native varieties
d
g
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a
b
c
f
e
g
d
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places to live
(plan)
where the inhabitants of dale are living? looking at the map you can find several residential areas. there are a few living places in the centre of dale. on both sides of it there are bigger settlements. the left one looks like a whale. maybe it is a symbol because this area is so close to the fjord. along the river there are two areas on both sides of it. the biggest settlement is along the riksveg 57 a little bit away from the village centre. a mansion territory b second row territory c school territory d new territory e central territory f mixed territory
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f a
e
c b
d
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waterfront
(model)
right to the coast and the fjord there is a plain areal. it is enclosed by water on all sides. if you are living there you can feel the hills in your neck, have the water laying in front of your feet and the huge mountains right in front of you. a dalsfjord b living area c dalselva
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a
b c
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mansion territory
(plan)
in this place maybe the wealthy inhabitants of dale are living. right on the waterfront their sailboats and small yachts can safely parked in front of their houses. several mansions fight for the first row to have the best view to dalsfjord and of course also to their boats. having an own garden seems less important. a private marina b mansions in first row
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a
b
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behind the neck
(model)
between the river dalselva and the western hills of the valley there is a small strip of living area. in two layers the landscape arise to the top of the mountain behind the neck of the plain area and shelter the houses sitting there. a vikakletten [165m] b living area c dalselva
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a
b c
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second row territory
(plan)
although this residential area is in the second row, it is laying close to the nature as well but in this case to the forest and not to the sea. from each side the settlement is surrounded by trees. like at a branch the detached houses meander to the last leaves. every house has his own garden. so close to the nature it seems to be very quiet there. a houses hanging on the branch b forest surrounding the area
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a
b
a
b
b
a
a
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peninsula
(model)
in the middle of the valley there is a small peninsula shaped by the river. behind the tongue there is a exposed area to live. the mountains are quite far away so that you don’t feel dangerous enclosed by them. a dalselva b living area
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b a
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school territory
(plan)
close to dalselva there is a small peninsula with a big meadow as the common green area for these inhabitants. the houses are lined in one row ending in an impasse. behind the houses there are big fields for farming. only the noise of playing children during the school breaks return to mind that it isn’t a lonely island. a dalselva b tongue of peninsula c end of the row in an impasse d noisy sounds coming from school
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a a
c
d
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waterfront 2
(model)
the fjord, the river dalselva and one high and very steep arising mountain enclose this residential area. there is one strange crater amidst the plain area. maybe something hit there into the landscape or it is just a parking lot. this area is almost the exit of dale. a river mouth b living area c small crater d øvstestølen [318m]
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d
b
c
a
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mixed territory
(plan)
this area is quite mixed. there are industrial buildings on the waterfront. behind there is the big health centre of dale and next to it there a several houses collected quite motley. on the other side of the noisy street there is a big circle and behind it there are several detached houses towards the dark forest and the arising mountain. it seems like the forest embrace the houses and shelter them but also steel them most of the daylight. a dalsfjord b industrial buildings c dale health centre d riksveg 57 e detached houses f embracing dark forest
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a
b
c
d
e
f
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remote area
(model)
in the middle of the pitch of this mountain there is a small plain dot. quite high on the mountain you can overlook the coast of the valley and therefore the dalsfjord. it seems to be very remote and reclosed. who wants to live that isolated and hidden? a hidden place b øvstestølen [318m]
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b
a
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remote area
(plan)
dale is a remote place. but it still harbors more quiet areas in itself like the last veins of a circuit. on a small clearing surrounded by dark coniferous forest some hermits are living in a place where you can only hear birds singing and wood cracking. one serpentine is crawling up to this area and connects the isolation with the civilization in the valley. a serpentine b isolated houses c circling dark forest
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59 | a subjective atlas
foreland
(model)
further away from the centre of dale and the river this living area forms the end of the village towards the eastern mountains. in several layers the houses crawling up the hill having a great view over the valley and to the opposite mountains. a living area b hides in mountain c furekambane [310m]
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c b
a
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new territory
(plan)
located in a bay of forest close to the noisy riksveg 57 a quite big settlement arises. the detached houses are strict organized along several side roads. several colours act in this place - there are orange, red, blue, green, yellow and white painted wooden houses. the highest houses have a clear view over the valley and the surrounding hills. a riksveg 57 b embracing forest
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b
a
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a
b
e
treasures
c
d
f
(map)
dale harbours several treasures on its surface. there are loud and exciting ones like unusual buildings, a pulsing village core and a an disquieting artist centre overlooking the valley. but there also amazing silent situations like emptiness at the river mouth, the church of dale and the cemetery laying along the river and a big meadow on a small peninsula. a river mouth b transplant c ferry house d village core e church and cemetery f peninsula g nordic artists’ centre
g
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c b a
d
e
f
g
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river mouth
(section)
where the river dalselva open its mouth towards the fjord and disappears in it and later into the north sea, there are small red painted wooden boat houses on the left bank. on the right side there is a big meadow with a few trees. these two banks and sides of dale are almost 50m apart from each other. a dalselva b red painted wooden boat house c exposed meadow with few trees
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a
c
b
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transplant
(perspective)
at the edge of the dalsfjord there is a new office building complex called transplant. to transplant means to take one thing and bring it to another place. so where these fan-like buildings are coming from? what is certain is that these are the most modern offices in dale. the small cabins are reaching differently far towards the water and therefore recreates the coast line of dale. the entrance is quite small while the waterfront side opens itself to the amazing landscape. a dalsfjord b coast line c transplant
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a
b
c
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ferry house
(elevation)
where sometimes ferries are arriving there is a quite large red painted wooden house facing towards the fjord. it is almost a inherent part of the surrounding landscape with the fjord and the huge mountains of the other side of the water. a ferry house b dalsfjord c bjergastølen [328m] d fløyen [761m] e gjotedalen [187m]
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d
c
e
b
a
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village core
(perspective)
in the center of dale all requirements are laying close to each other like a good packed package. next to the bus station there is a cafe called allmuen kafe. behind this there are some trees and a meadow where it seems to be nice to wait for the next bus. over the street there is the dale senter where the post and touristic office are located. this bigger building is only surrounded by grey parking space. across there is also a supermarket. above there is the administrative centre of the fjaler commune. at least in direction outward dale there is on the right side a petrol station. a administrative centre b supermarket c allmuen kafe d bus station e petrol station f dale senter
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a f
e
b
c
d
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spiritual heart
(plan)
in a bend of the dalselva, a natural wonder, there is the white painted wooden church of dale. it is encircled by silent graves. in the heart of dale it creates a peaceful, spiritual and calm place. a dalselva b church c cemetery
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c
b
a
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trinity
(model)
behind the rough line of the river there is well groomed lawn where the hardness of the stony graves and the white wooden church with a grey slate roof are meeting each other. the area is surrounded by a low but massive wall made of stones and some wooden benches in front of it. the more distant setting is made by the fjord and the mountains enclosing the valley. in the moonlight the white church and the graves are appearing quite frightening.
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empty treasure
(plan)
an empty space can be also a treasure. in this case it is the quality of an exposed meadow on a small peninsula quite close to the village core. there are only a few trees along the river. the inhabitants can have here a sunday walk or a picnic in summer. during the week this place is almost overrun by children playing after their stressful school day. a dalselva b empty meadow
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a
b
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nkd
(plan)
this treasure is located on a eastern hill overlooking dale. it is the nordic artists’ centre which habours several buildings enabling artists to contemplate in exhibitions hall exchange in combined kitchen and living rooms come to rest in private bedrooms with a view into forest concentrate in studios with a view into the valley a exhibition hall b common area c private rooms d studios
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c b
a
d
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nkd
(section)
situated on a slope a serpentine leads from the valley to the elevated artist’s centre. because of this hillside situation there are several views. towards the valley you can see dale looking through bigger conifers. to the other side there is only the darkness and deepness of the forest. a view to dale b serpentine c view to forest
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c b a
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?
not detected
(elevations and plan)
now and then the nkd disturb the quietness of dale with several art projects. in 2013 there was an exhibition in whole dale where three projects were created. the first one is called “outside in” and was made by wencha kvalstad eckhoffs. it is a small cabin located on a hill and covered with dozens small birdhouses. the second project is called “matchstickmen” made by wolfgang stiller. almost human-sized matchsticks made out of wood and painted black are positioned on the waterside and facing in several directions. the last project is called “devolution crater“ made by ingeborg annie lindahl. trunks are bunched together to create a crater with water in the middle. it was very close to the nkd. but it wasn’t possible to find the exact position of these projects. although it is not sure if they are still alive. a outside in b matchstick men c devolution crater
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a
b
c