Spetses Spotlight 1 by Spetses Race

spotlight Spetses

SUMMER 2014  ISSUE 1

ON THE WAY TO SPETSES… discover the charms of the Northern Peloponnese

Plein Immerse Soleil

yourself in vivid colors and a laidback attitude

Set to sail!

SU MMER 2014  I S SU E 1

The new “taste” of Athens and other culinary promises...

The 4th Spetses Classic Yacht Race celebrates tradition, authenticity and chivalry!

Return to Paradise

editorial

spotlight Spetses summer 2 0 1 4 I SSU E 1 EDITOR Marina L. Coutarelli -----------------EDITOR - AT - LARGE Stella Lizardi CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lia Galanou -----------------CONTRIBUTORS Ioanna Alexatou, Alexandra Gardenioti, Doya Karolini, Paris Kormaris, Thodoris Koutsogiannopoulos, Isabella Zabetaki

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FOOD & WINE EDITOR Niki Mytarea

Photo: Giorgos Kaplanidis

he road to Spetses let’s you behold the island a good twenty minutes before you arrive. Far into the distance you can see a green island speckled at the seashore with white buildings. It isn’t spectacular by any standard, until you reach the sea-taxi station, then your senses start getting assaulted by it’s quiet grandiosity. Beautiful houses effortlessly give way to its ancient well-coifed pinewoods. The sensual assault reaches its climax when you set foot on the island and fragrant jasmine and indigenous “throubi” aromas waft through the air, interspersed with smells of the sea, and freshly caught fish as locals and visitors alike drink coffees or chat while taking in a different deeper way of seeing the world. There is something timeless, elegant and idyllic about Spetses that has stood the test of time and manages to be both classic and modern simultaneously. Since the onset of the Greek financial crisis, there has been another ingredient added to this magical island, and indeed in the area around it often referred to as the “Greek Riviera”, the ingredient is a quiet revolution of sorts. Two major athletic events, the Spetses mini Marathon and the Spetsathlon, have set the island on the way

The power of We

to becoming a year round destination, bringing over 10.000 visitors to the island but above all have created, as Doya Karolini aptly describes it in her article “the power of We”. Major tourism and real-estate developments have taken place in the past years, beginning with the rebirth of the historic Poseidonion Grand Hotel in 2009 which this year celebrates its centenary anniversary – read about Petros Haritatos predications for the next hundred years- and which continue with the opening the first Greek Nikki Beach Resort this yearIoanna Alexatou has the scoop on page 20. We hope that this first

issue Spetses spotlight will reflect not only the diversity and uniqueness of the island, but more so a commitment to the values, which we feel, Spetses represents: authenticity, grace, timelessness, and those wonderful small things which taken together form the tapestry of a truly fruitful life experience. So whether you have hopped on a hydrofoil to a day trip to Athens to enjoy a Big Olive City Walk or a fabulous dinner at Vezene, or are languidly lounging at Xylokeriza beach we hope you will enjoy this first issue. MARINA L. COUTARELLI

MARKET EDITOR Iris Leontariti -----------------CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Alexandros Ioannidis, Nikos Karanikolas, Panagiotis Mavromattis, Ioanna Roufopoulou -----------------ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Elfi Alexandroglou, Nely Xenaki -----------------Advertising & Media Inquiries Ms Ioanna Kozadinou jkozadinou@clab.gr 210-8015954 -----------------The Spetses Spotlight magazine is published by Communication Lab (www.clab.gr) -----------------All rights reserved

LIFE IS A SMILE H A P P Y S P O R T A U T O M AT I C

Cover

Photo: Yachts competing in the Spetses Classic Yacht Race 2013. The amazing photo was shot by Makis Fountis ()

CHOPARD BOUTIQUES ATHENS: 2 Stadiou Str., tel. 2103250555 · Hotel Intercontinental, tel 2109249823 MYKONOS: Tria Pigadia, tel. 2289026406 boutique.athens@chopardgreece.gr Also available at www.kassis.net

Boutiques in Athens Spetses Spotlight 000

table of contents

sum m er 2014

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4 Editorial 8 Scrapbook Our must see/ must do guide to the Summer! 19 Salty Bag The Road to Rio by Salty Bag helps get Greek sailors to the start line of the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. 20 Greek Folk with a Twist We handpicked the best Greek souvenirs. 22 trends All day elegance and trendy looks for a night out! 32 around The globe 38 Barbara Terzaki-Pallikari is on a mission to reclaim Greece's Heritage through the "Penelope Gandhi" project. 42 SCYR 2014 Join skippers and eager crowds as Spetses becomes the perfect backdrop for sailing some of the most beautiful yachts in the world. 46 the next 100 years What the future holds for Spetses in the next 100 years according to historian P. Haritatos. 48 The Power of We is the secret ingredient of the phenomenal success of the Spetses mini Marathon and Spetsathlon events. 50 Highlights from the second Spetsathlon, the largest triathlon in Greece. 55 THE "NEW" TASTE OF ATHENS 58 Nikki Beach A sneak preview of the hottest Greek summer opening. 60 ouzo power Learn the secrets of one of Greece's most wellknown aperitifs. 62 Travel The drive down to Spetses through the Northern Peloponnese is an adventure in and of itself.

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PEOPLE, PLACES, TRENTS, NEWS...

Next time you are in Athens, take one of the Big Olive themed city walks. By Paris Kormaris

Walk this way I’ve always believed there

is no better way to feel the vibe of a city than walking around its streets, both on and off the beaten track. That’s why I was excited to discover the Big Olive city walks, provided by an Athens-based team of field experts with focus on various aspects of art, architecture, literature, history, cuisine and current affairs. “Big Olive designs and delivers themed city walks in the style of open-air seminars/lectures for both subject-specific (academic)

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and non specific audiences” says Yannis Zaras, Managing Director & Founder. “Athens’ multi-faceted identity provided a fertile ground for long-neglected narratives and stories to come to the foreground. Our itineraries are distinguished by their rigorous approach while maintaining a high degree of entertainment and personal involvement. Through them one can ‘eavesdrop’ on the everyday life of the various ethnical groups living in the pre-revolutionary Greece, follow the resonances of the Anatolian refugees on the

From archaeological sites and picturesque squares, to hidden landmarks of architecture and other places of interest, Big Olive city walks make your journeys around Athens worth walking!

neighbourhood of Neos Cosmos, walk the streets where Hans Kristian Andersen used to have his tea when in Athens, or take a sneak peek though some of the oldest surviving houses in the city”. There are Open Group Walks for groups of eight (with an average participation cost of € 40 per person) and Private Walks which can accommodate parties of up to 25 (the cost falling as low as € 15 per person). Apart from the suggested routes, the team thrives on delivering special itineraries upon request. * www.bigolive.org

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New Entry Just a few

minutes from the port of Dapia on the historic island of Spetses, one of the most inspiring jewelry brands in Greece, Apriati, has created its new boutique. In a modern space with a friendly atmosphere, one can find the brand’s new fascinating designs, such as trendy charms, cord bracelets, earrings and necklaces, created by the finest materials. Apriati’s unique pieces are inspired by the Greek heritage and are given a hip, modern twist by the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship and unique approach to design. Apriati boutique: Stavrou Niarhou 12, Spetses.

Tavli on-the-go

The word for backgammon in Greek is “tavli” and most of the locals can teach you how to play games like “plakoto”, “portes” or “fevga”. A favourite pastime especially during the summer, it is often found at local coffee shops in its traditional and not particularly travel-friendly wooden form. Enter Greek White (www.greek-white.com), a new design team offering “handmade products made with love and Greek white flavor”, and you get “Backgammon à la Grecque”. Comprising a board made of 100% cotton, wooden checkers, dice and doubling cube, it is the perfect solution for tavli on-the-go, easy to set even on a sandy beach. Apart from the online buying option, you can get it at the shop of the Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens, along with a wide selection of antiquityinspired yet absolutely modern items (www.cycladic.gr). –PARIS KORMARIS

A feast of memories The history of Spetses lives through its historical buildings. But on summer nights, it actually shines on, reflecting the future. We welcome the 5th Cultural Festival of the Museum of Bouboulina. by Doya Karolini

For the past four years, Philip Demertzis-Bouboulis, the great-great-grandson of LaskarinaBouboulina (a great heroine of the Greek War of Independence) has been organizing the Cultural Festival of the Museum of Bouboulina in Spetses with the coo-peration of the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, and funding from the European Union. In 2010, the Museum’s management, continuing its cultural tradition and with the aim of entertaining islanders and visitors to Spetses, hosted the 1st

Cultural Festival - with a total of five concerts. The following year, the Festival was expanded to host a wider range of cultural events, to include evenings of opera, classic and traditional music, historical tributes, dance theatre, monologues, literature and poetry. The response from the public was extraordinary and the courtyard was filled to overflowing almost every night. In 2012, the Festival was included in the European programme ESPA 2007-2013.This year, the 5th consecutive Festival will feature renowned Greek artists in concert (such as Lavrentis Maheritsas, Kostis Maraveyas and Kostas Hatzis, among others), as well as theater performances with free admission for everyone, as allways. Do note this though: visitors are kindly asked to offer foods, medicines etc, which will in return be given over to the island’s churches to support their charitable work. Bouboulina’s Museum, originally built back in 1670, directly behind the port of Dapia, welcomes 600,000 visitors every summer. www.bouboulinamuseum-spetses.gr

BRONZE TOURISM AWARD FOR SPETSES MINI MARATHON

The Spetses mini Marathon has been widely established not only as a great event but as a case study for a successful tourism event which enhances the Spetses tourism period and generates both income and visitors in a low period month such as October. In light of the above, Spetses mini Marathon won the Bronze Tourism Award in the category of Sports Tourism. The President of the Organizing Committee, visibly moved by this honor dedicated the award to the people of Spetses and the volunteers. Registrations are now open for this years’ Spetses mini Marathon which will be held between October 10th and 12th, 2014 and will include a new 10K run! Visit www.spetsesmarathon.com for information on how to register.

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SPETSES TOWN  to Saint

Nicholas church

Clock’s Square Twelve

Stores

street

Bouboulina’s house museum

Dapia

Spetses Secrets An all-family treasure hunt On our quest to discover more about Spetses’ history, we walk its alleys and try to look behind the building facades and ’ walls. the tall courtyard

One of the golden dragons inside Saint Nicholas’ church. Testing the canons outside the town hall. Spetses’ oldest building. One of the numerous pebbled mosaics worth looking for. Riding a horse buggy along the captains mansions’ row.

By Isabella Zampetaki

The clock

Spetses Clock Tower at the homonymous square. A bench made from an old boat. Inside admiral Bouboulina’s house museum. The magician’s house and what used to be Spetses’ Casino.

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We begin our walk at the Clock’s Square, named after the clock that was built in 1915 so that the people of Spetses would be on time for their appointments. We synchronize our watches underneath the clock and officially embark upon our treasure hunt. The first x-mark on our map, a store whose roof is supported by a ship’s mast, is not hard to find, as it stands right next to the clock tower. Despite the island’s centuries-old tradition in shipbuilding, this is the only use of a mast in a building. The sea element takes menacing proportions in the nearby fish market where the catch of the day, a huge tope shark, lays surrounded by a group of curious local men …and a hungry cat.

The magician’s house

Turning right, we walk along the Twelve Stores street, Spetses’ old commercial center. A little further down the alley and on our right, we raise our heads to look at two impressive mansions. The one on the left was handbuilt by its proprietor, who also happened to be a magician! That on the right was once used as a casino. Our attention is then distracted by a curious, “magic” bench on Twelve Stores street. Not only is it made from an old boat, it also has two hatches that you can open. After resting –and unresting- on the bench, we pass by Spetses’ oldest building. The sea once reached all the way to its steps and its arches served to store goods.

Saint Nicholas’ golden dragons

The next mark on our map is the church of Saint Nicholas. We ask a local lady for directions and walk up a hill which brings us in front of the Kapodistrian School where, in the past, senior students would serve as teachers to younger ones. After my elder son threatens his sibling with all the things he would make him do if he were his teacher, we continue along the pebbled path until we reach Saint Nicholas’ courtyard. The monastery was also a fort and that explains the tall walls and the canons. Step inside the church to greet the golden

dragons of its elaborate wooden altarpiece and walk around it to find a doll-house model of the monastery and its interiors. Content with our discoveries, we start heading back to Dapia, walking along the coast.

Passing by a number of proud captains’ mansions, whose steps their owners would climb after securing their boats right below, we succumb to the temptation of taking a quick swim in one of the small bays. Enough walking for today!

Top things to do in Spetses with kids 1. Ride a horse buggy -and a water taxi. 2. Explore the pebbled mosaics. Look for the giant octopus, the crab and the pirate skull! 3. Visit female admiral Bouboulina’s house museum. 4. Count, and test, the canons along Spetses’ fortified perimeter. 5. Try to imagine what lies behind the tall courtyard walls that surround several buildings.

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Greek Delicacies

From recipes in a self-published cookbook, to selected natural products and traditional flavours, Greece is full of tasteful promises. By Paris Kormaris

It was while

studying at Brown University, in the US , that Greek born Alexandra Stratou first dreamt of “using food as a medium to communicate and bring people together”, and went on to become a professional cook. She explained everything on her Kickstarter campaign, through which she managed to crowd-fund a cookbook with generationold traditional Greek recipes updated to appeal to the modern day palate.

Anassa

Apart from being a useful kitchen companion, “Cooking to Share” is a book filled with the sensitivity of an inspired creator (available at the Athens International Airport, www.amazon.com & cookingtoshare.com). Tradition is combined with recent scientific achievements in the case of Anassa Organics, which offer a selection of 15 exceptional organic Greek herbs (either on their own or in blends) produced with the use of traditional farming practises. Packaged in white cubical boxes which feature sketches of legendary mythological creatures, the herbs came with specially made filters and wooden sticks, turning the preparation of a hot or cold drink into a simple yet indulging ritual. And it sure is no coincidence that Anassa Organics is one of the finalists for this year’s Hellenic Entrepreneurship Award (www.anassaorganics.com). Greece’s natural wealth is the basis of the “Naturally

Greek” brand as well, which is scouting the country for exquisite products of various kinds, such as Kalamata Olive Tapenade, Fleur de Sel from the salt marshes of Mesologgi and Olive Oil Barley Rusks from Kythera. Unique packaging ideas can cater for a wide range of occasions, from tourist souvenirs to wedding giveaways, that is if one doesn’t want to keep the pleasure for oneself (www.naturally-greek.gr). The savoury pastes created by “ooh my god” bear the names of the twelve Olympians, their ingredients somehow connected to the character of the respective god. For example, the base of “Poseidon” –god of the sea– is smoked mackerel, while “Dimitra” –goddess of the harvest– is made

at h e nS Be i Ji ng Be rl i n Du Ba i DuS S e l D o r F h ong Kong lon Don neW Yor K Seoul S h angh ai MC MWor lD W i D e.CoM

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Cooking to share

Naturally greek of split peas with saffron and anise. The patented recipes have been devised by a team of chefs, while all the ingredients come from local producers all around Greece and have been part of the Mediterranean diet for centuries (www.oohmygod.gr). 

Ooh my god

M C M Bo u t i q u e : 2 , X a n t h o u St r . & a n ag n oSto p o u lo u St r . , Ko lo n a Ki , at h e n S , t e l. + 3 0 2 1 0 7 2 2 5 9 1 0 w w w. m c mwo r l dw i de. co m w w w. f ac e b o o k . co m / M C M gre e c e

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+30 210 33 10 601

On the road to RIO!

Salty Bag’s new line leads the way tο the Olympic Games of Rio!

Photo: George Kaplanidis

Stratis Andreadis, Spyros Daikos and Chrysa Chalikiopoulou combined their efforts to create handmade bags from recycled sails!

T trends

Salty Bag

was founded a year ago by a group of young people from Corfu and is an innovative upcycling business. Stratis Andreadis, Spyros Daikos and Chrysa Chalikiopoulou combined their efforts to create handmade bags from recycled sails! Based on the idea of upcycling, Salty Bag combines sails which have a lifetime of thousands of nautical miles and breathes new life into them by creating aesthetically perfect, high quality bags and travel gear. Each product is meticulously and lovingly handcrafted and is named after a unique place in Greece. In addition, each bag is accompanied by a booklet informing the owner of the previous life of the sail- the distances travelled, the high seas conquered and the stories regaled during moonlit evenings. One of the basic pillars of the foundation of Salty Bag was the notion of Corporate Social Responsibility and it is within that frame that the idea ‘Road to Rio’ was born. Salty Bag’s new line ‘Road to Rio’ consists of bags from sails which have gained the greatest distinctions in Greek sailing. All the sale profits from the new line will be put towards supporting the Greek sailing teams for the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. Specifically, Salty Bag will cover part of the preparation costs for three Greek teams, hoping to compete in the Olympic Games in Rio in 2016: Sofia Bekatorou & Kostas Trigonis (Narca 17), Yannis Mitakis (Finn) and Pavlos Kagialis & Panagiotis Madis (470). We wish them the best of luck! In Spetses and Hydra check out Salty Bag products at “On the Deck” in Dapia, or alternatively order through the website www.saltybag.com

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Set of earrings in goldplated metallic lace, Elena Kougianou, ΟΥΤΟΠΙΑ, www.elenakougianou.com

trends

Pocket mirror from “Greek Traditional Costumes” series, www.idisti.gr

Set of 6 coasters featuring monuments of Athens, www.idisti.gr

WITH A TWIST

The Greek tradition and heritage translated in an inspired modern design. By Ioanna Alexatou

A mouse pad version of the evil eye charm, from “Good Luck Charm” series, www.idisti.gr

Silk “Atlantish Scarf” featuring the map of the Lost Atlantis, designed by Greece is for Lovers, www.greeceisforlovers.com.

14K pink gold necklace “Tu es Partout” with blackened sterling silver blue enamelled eye and black (0.06ct) & white Diamonds (0.64ct), 41cm, www.net-a-porter.com, www.lito-jewelry.com

Handmade “Kanati” a ceramic pitcher inspired by the shape of the funnel, www.wedesign.com

Hand crafted stool “Volakas” made of white Volakas marble and juta cord uneven weaving. Designed by Spacelab Architecture for Zeus & Δione, www.zeusndione.com

STUDIOMATSIS

The i-MUSEUM, a concept store located in the island of Mykonos designed by CTRLZAK studio, brings together historical replicas from various Greek archaeological museums in a very contemporary way, i-museumshop.com

www.sebago.gr sebagogreece

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trends

Charlotte Dellal

started out in 2008 to grow a global brand with a strong aesthetichaving opened stores in London, New York, LA and recently Miami and Hong Kong, with three more on the cards this year, she has definitely achieved her goal. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The shoe design is more 3D than a dress, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really like building somethingÂť, says Charlotte who managed to establish a reputation for being flamboyant, yet commercial. Her new summer collection includes playful pieces with a nostalgic, old Hollywood touch. www.charlotteolympia.com

all DAY Tropical prints, ladylike details and Riviera mood set the scene for all day summer outfits. 1. Skirt, H&M 2. Top, Dolce&Gabbana 3. Bikini, Paolita 4. Espadrilles, Manebi 5. Sunglasses, Thom Browne 6. Hat, Gucci 7. Shorts, Reiko 8. Earrings, Zerteo 9. Watch, Frank Muller 10. Bracelet, Apriati 11. One-piece swimsuit, Wolford 12. Sandals, Sebago 13. Bag, Muzungu Sisters

8 Isabel Mar ant

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5 3

11 4

One of our

all time favorites for fresh fish in Spetses is Tarsansas Taverna where the catch of the day is served with succulent fresh vegetables and the menu includes all time favorites such tiny fried red mullet, seabass carpaccio and for dessert heavenly baklavas, rich in aromas. The service is superb and the regular customers keep on coming back for more!

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Spetses offers

A night

a vibrant nightlife with great options for all. We suggest that you start out with a signature cocktail on the verandah of the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, and continue to the Palio Limani for a great atmosphere and drinks at the Bikini Bar, Adore Spetses, Mouragio. For after hours, head on to Tole, Guzel and La Luz and of course all time classic Spetsa Bar under the expert eye of Mr. Kostas.

out

VA L E N T I N O

A boho glam look inspired from the SS14 catwalks seems ideal for a night summer walk and enjoy the breezy nights on the island in style.

1. Clutch bag, Valentino. 2. Pendant, Marco Bicego. 3.Watch, Frank Muller. 4. Playsuit, Zimmerman. 5. Ring, Chopard. 6. Long vest, Valentino. 7. Iphone case, Chanel. 8. Bracelet, Apriati. 9. Scarf, Etro. 10. Shorts, Emano. 11. Sandals, Giuseppe Zanotti. 12. Tunic, Anna Sui. 13. Belt, Etro.

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CHLOE

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Serafina Sama

Sophie’s choice Sophie Deloudi is all about new beginnings, and so after closing her famous store in Athens, she decided to follow her true passion and designed her first swimwear collection.

“Fashion has

Clockwise: Chanel, Alexander Wang Celine, Dior, Gucci.

project: bag ARTISTIC TOTES, STYLISH BACKPACKS AND FRINGED CREATIONS THAT THIS SEASON SHOULD HANG IN YOUR CLOSET.

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always been a passion of mine”, says Sophie Deloudi, design connoisseur and former owner of ‘Deloudis Objet’, who recently designed her very own swimwear collection, after the economic crisis forced her to close her shop in Kolonaki. One might say that Sophie left behind her career in design after 20 successful years, but for her this is just a continuation. “Aesthetics and the design world in its wider sense, is a whole universe for anyone who is into it. The images, the knowledge and the experiences of the past 20 years have certainly influenced me”. Her first swimwear collection for Summer 2014 has a vast spectrum of graphic, paisley and tribal prints, depicted on sporty high quality pieces, with clean fluid shapes and a distinct touch of femininity. “The inspiration came mainly from this season’s fabrics and pattern designs, but the pieces themselves

were a result of my personal point of view”, she says. “I felt it was time to give in to the dream that I ‘ve always had. I studied at the Instituto Marangoni in Milan and my graduation project was actually on swimwear”. Sophie’s high sense of aesthetics and her love for fashion are mirrored on her collection of swimwear, as well as on her personal style. “Fashion for me is an aesthetic world in which I exist with boundaries, critique and a creative flair. I process it by my own criteria, which have been fashioned from a young age and are transformed by time”. This new era in Sophie Deloudis’ life marks the ending of her career as the owner of one of the most prestigious stores in Greece, and the beginning of a new one, as a fashion designer. And as it turns out, the design aficionado’s first steps into the fashion world seem extremely promising and well planned. www.sophiedeloudi.gr

Fashion Forward

With a new collection in stores and a thriving fashion career, Isa Arfen’s designer Serafina Sama, is definitely one to watch.

“I wanted

the garments to have a feeling of ease and a flexibility that would allow the wearer to twist and adjust them however she desires”, says Serafina Sama of her Spring/Summer ’14 collection, her third one for Isa Arfen (anagram for Serafina), the label that she founded in 2011 and has been praised by fashion aficionados around the world. The London-based 31 year-old designer from Italy, and mother of one, was always destined for success in fashion. Growing up in Ravenna, she was influenced by the styles of strong female figures that surrounded her

and, although she studied architecture in London, she decided to pursue her true passion, fashion design. During her years at Central Saint Martins, she interned for Marni, Marc Jacobs and Lanvin, and two years later she went on to work as a design assistant at Chloe, under Hannah MacGibbon and Paulo Melim Andersson. Serafina’s latest collection for Isa Arfen is all about volume, clean and feminine designs, and a touch of eccentricity. “The first images that went up on my moodboard this season were portraits of Tina Chow, especially one by Andy Warhol for its color scheme of black, red, white, sugary pink and lavender. I have always been a big fan of Chow’s way of dressing”. Looking back at her first collection, which was sold exclusively through private sales in London, Paris and Greece, one realizes how far Serafina has come after only three seasons. Today, Alexa Chung and

Lena Dunham are among Isa Arfen’s biggest fans, while her clothes are sold at Opening Ceremony and the online highfashion destination, Moda Operandi. “I’m already feeling very lucky! I would love to see Sofia Coppola in my designs some day”. In her personal life, Serafina is herself a style icon, which proves that

fashion is not just a professional choice for her, but a big part of her life. She has been collecting vintage clothing for years and she has been lucky enough to have a stylish mother who has passed on to her some unique designer pieces. “Some of my favorite clothes are an early Seventies printed velvet Dior skirt suit, a yellow Ossie Clark dress, a beaded Seventies Zandra Rhodes dress and an Yves Saint Laurent Ikat print quilted jacket. I also love my Seventies gold chain necklace with an antique coin that my husband gave me as a present”. ALEX ANDR A GARDENIOTI

Meaning “Earth” in Sanskrit, British skincare “ila” reflects

the faith in the power of nature as a source of true vitality and wellness. The finest plant and mineral ingredients, wild- harvested in untainted regions, and processed in the purest possible way in order to maintain their natural healing energy, end up in a series of “beyond organic” spa products and treatments that promise not only to nourish our skin but our soul too. Found in the most exclusive hotel spas around the world as well as luxury department stores and e- shops, Ila luxury skincare has just landed in Greece thanks to a collaboration with Asian Spa Ayurvedic & City Retreat group. Indulge in the Ila unique experience visiting Asian Spa resorts in Athens, Santorini, Corfu, Thessaloniki and, of course, at the Poseidonion Grand Hotel in Spetses.

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PUBLI

trends

Sneakers

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE BEST DESIGNER SNEAKERS OF THE SEASON AND PICK YOUR FAVORITE.

Clockwise: One-piece swimsuit, Lisa Marie Fernandez. T-shirt, Adidas by Stella McCartney. Pants, Toga. Sunglasses, Italia Independent. Headphones, Beats by Dre. Sweater, Fendi. Sneakers, Puma.

Kenzo

sporty summer

Neoprene swimsuits, sweatshirts, slides and sneakers are this seasons summer must-haves for the active lovers.

Marriana Lyberta

Si nge r and s t yl e i co n R i h annause s h e r s t ard o m i n o rd e r to s uppo rt t h e M∙ A ∙ C A I D S F und i s now t h e new f ac e of t h e V I VA GL A M c am pai g n.

Givenchy

Giuseppe Zanotti

Pierre Hardy Backpack, MCM. Watch, Chopard. Slides, Zara. Bikini, T by Alexander Wang.

Maison Martin Margiela Shorts, Sea. Hat, Karl Lagerlfeld.

Givenchy

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Stardust

Frosty blue-red Lipstick and Lipglass are the new products of the new VIVA GLAM campaign, for which pop-singer Rihanna is the new spokesperson.

fter Lady Gaga, Sir Elton John, Mary J. Blige, Dita Von Teese and Linda Evangelista, now Rihanna is the new spokeswoman for the 2014 VIVA GLAM campaign. The dynamic pop star has lent her signature to a sultry yet chic Lipstick and Lipglass. In a creamy frosty red, the two products follow this season’s bold trend, and are part of Rihanna’s unique look. The singer, known for her awareness on sensitive issues, was very keen to support the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund via the VIVA GLAM campaign, which over the past 20 years has featured several superstars who support the brands fight against AIDS and HIV. Since the first VIVA GLAM lipstick, which was introduced in 1994, the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund has raised over $300 million, and was able to support organizations in many countries and territories that are working to combat the epidemic and improve the lives of those who live with AIDS and HIV or have been affected by it. Every cent from the sale of VIVA GLAM Lipstick and Lipglass goes to men, women and children who have been affected by the disease. In Greece,M∙A∙C cosmetics has co-funded a home, along with the HCDCP (Hellenic Center for Disease Control & Prevention)in the center of Athens, which gives shelterfor a limited amount of timeto those who suffer from AIDS and don’t have the resources in order to cover their daily needs. Apart from sheltering those in need, this project provides medical care, psychological support, recreational activities, as well as safe and protected environment. Part of the earnings from the sales of M∙A∙C VIVA GLAM Lipstick and Lipglass, are given to the programs that support AIDS and HIV patients at The Center of Life and PRAXIS.

trends The “Green” Journey Chopard’s Journey is all about sustainable luxury, as the Swiss house teams up with the Green Carpet Challenge, in order to establish new ethical criteria.

The Green Carpet Collection, with diamonds sourced from RJC certified producers, bears an exquisite testimony to the exceptional know-how of Chopard.

30 Spetses Spotlight

Fairmined gold is an initiative and movement lead by and for the miners and it supports responsible certified miners and their families that follow strict requirements for social development, environmental protection, labor conditions and economic development in their mining communities.

Brasil 7a0ker Windbre

When Cate

Blanchett walked down the red carpet this award season, wearing a pair of leaf-shaped diamond earrings from Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection, that marked the beginning of an ethical journey towards sustainable luxury. Blanchett’s spectacular jewelry was made by 72 marquise diamonds and 18k Fairmined white gold, which was extracted by artisanal and small-scale miners in South America, certified under the Fairmined standard. Paving the way towards sustainable jewelry, Chopard has teamed up with Livia Firth, founder of the Green Carpet Challenge, and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), and as a result has created the Green Carpet collection, a series of entirely ethical Haute Joaillerie models, crafted by Chopard’s jewelers, gold casters, polishers and gem-setters. “The Journey”, as Chopard calls it, is a broad-scale new programme, which launched during the 2013 International Film Festival, and started off with the Swiss luxury pioneer revealing the hard work of the community gold miners. Stars like Cate Blanchett, Marion Cotillard, Lea Seydoux and Virginie Ledoyen, lent their support by wearing extraordinary pieces during the award seasonand turning the red carpet green. Proving that ethics and luxury can

coexist, Chopard along with ARM, will help protect Latin America’s natural resources that depend on community mines, and pave the way for fair prices for the local miners, by helping certify under the Fairmined standard. By buying Fairmined metals, Chopard supports responsible certified miners and their families that follow strict requirements for social development, environmental protection, labor conditions and economic development in their mining communities. 

Bra Cla zil ssic

BODY & MIND

Perfect harmony becomes discorda nt due to our own mista kes

By ElEana PaPachar al am BouS , health Ser vices manager – cEo of the orThoBIoTIKI Preventative medicine clinic

around the globe By Paris Kormaris

Clockwise: A visitor among the exhibits. Models from Gaultier’s first collection (S/S 1977) and from the French Cancan collection (F/W 1991– 1992), as shown at his 30th anniversary retrospective runway show. Body corset worn by Madonna at the Blond Ambition World Tour, 1990. Parrot-feather bolero and black crepe jumpsuit with plunging neckline from the Haute Couture Salon Atmosphere collection (S/S 1997). Down, Gaultier at the Barbican.

The first major exhibition devoted to Jean Paul Gaultier has arrived at the Barbican in London. are recurrent in my work and not When the Montreal

Museum of Fine Arts approached Jean Paul Gaultier proposing to present an exhibition on his work, the French designer wasn’t won over immediately: “I was flattered but at the same time I always thought that the retrospectives were for those who are no longer working”, he says. “So when we started discussing the project we decided that the outfits will be grouped by themes that

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chronologically”. After a successful tour around the world, the exhibition The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk has arrived at London’s Barbican Art Gallery. One of the reasons Gaultier is very excited about it, is that “the English were the first ones to come to my shows and appreciate my fashion”. * Until 25 August 2014, www.barbican.org.uk

Matthew Lloyd / Getty. Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier. Emil Larsson.

An inspired couturier

ow can we delay the aging process through prevention? As time proceeds, the human body undergoes progressive damage, with a concomitantly reduced capacity to repair itself. However, we are now able to slow the effects of time in a scientific manner. The rate of aging is different for everyone – today, we use the term ‘biological age’ as a measure which corresponds to the functional state of the internal systems of the organism, while the average chronological age is used to describe the number of years a person has been alive for. Thus, a man may be fifty years old, but the state of his biological systems may correspond to those of a man in his thirties. The most reliable way to assess a person’s biological age is the measurement of telomere length and telomerase activity – the enzyme which impedes the reduction in telomere length. Fill up on antioxidants Antioxidants are the ‘key’ to prolonging youth. Any organic substance which delays or stops the catastrophic oxidizing properties of free radicals may be characterized as an antioxidant. Antioxidant substances are endogenously produced by enzymes and exogenously by the antioxidants we take through our food. Antioxidants repress harmful oxidizing processes of free radicals either by blocking their creation (inhibitory antioxidants), destroying/immobilizing them or by blocking their oxidizing chain reaction. Reduce your calorie intake A multitude of clinical studies add that reducing your calorie intake also contributes to longevity and anti-aging. Researchers note that drastic reduction of your calorie intake may significantly contribute to deceleration of the aging process. Specifically, studies conducted on animals during the past 20 years have shown up to a 40% increase in life duration.

The defence system Our body’s defence system gradually wears out and that is translated as a chronic silent ‘roasting and caremelisation’, the Maillard reaction, where everything, vessels, cells, organs, the brain and insides and even our skin gradually roast and when there is no protection, the bad guys (germs, allergies, inflammations, cancer etc) jump at the chance to wreak havoc. Delay bone corrosion Do anything you can so as to keep your bones in good condition and delay their corrosion, which, other than problems such as osteoporosis, is also accompanied by movement difficulties, reduction of physical activity and also psychological aging. The best way to prevent bone aging, other than exercise, is a diet rich in calcium. Free Radical - Youth’s greatest enemy Our desire to always remain young has opened the road for scientists to study aging and longevity. One of the most prevalent theories is that which studies the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals on living organisms. Free radicals are extremely unstable and particularly drastic molecules or atoms which have a free solitary electron in their flavedo (outer layer). These oxidizing substances, in the effort to increase their stability, ‘steal’ electrons from other cells, thus activating chain reactions which create more free radicals. Stress and environmental factors, such as radiation, atmospheric pollution and smoking, may also produce them. Tests for correct anti-aging Priority for a diagnosis is the correct clinical examination of the patient who, with imaging, history, answers, complaints and symptoms, may display things which other examinations

wouldn’t and usually aren’t able to show. Also, you want a doctor who will have a personal interest in you as a human being and also regarding your entire way of life, who will listen carefully and give you the chance, through analytical questions and examination of your full medical file, to mention things that would otherwise skip your or your doctor’s attention. Metals Detoxification (Met- Out) The metals come into our body through three routes: oral (by the food we eat), by topical use (from creams or body products we use which may contain metals) or by inhalation (the air we breathe contains various metals). Normally our body has its own detoxification process through organs like the liver that eliminate heavy metals in food but there are people who either own genetic cause or condition, have a lower detoxification capacity that makes the accumulated heavy metals can be toxic and cause health problems such as headaches, fatigue, migraines, etc. Are all metals and minerals harmful to our health? No. It should be borne in mind that the mineral elements are important for the maintenance of health. Many trace elements that are at the lowest level have an important role in our metabolism as cofactors for enzymatic reactions or as part of microescructures, while others can, at high levels, toxic effects.

Orthobiotiki / Orthobiotics SA Sorou 3-5 Marousi / Athens / Greece / 151 25 T. (+30) 210 323 0000 http: //www.orthobiotiki.com http://www.facebook.com/orthobiotiki

We want to live and age successf ully. We want both. To have both, we have to make changes to our way of life and our diet. Scientific research has shown that the extension of youth presupposes the care of our mind and body. Spetses Spotlight 000

Her SUMO

TIMELESS Established in 1764 by decree of King

Louis XV, Baccarat is celebrating its 250th anniversary with a book tracing the history of one of the world’s most prestigious crystal manufacturers.

34 Spetses Spotlight

Fairytale like

Starring in the title role of Maleficent, Disney’s new film based on the untold story of the iconic villain from the 1959 classic Sleeping Beauty, Angelina Jolie invited Stella McCartney to visit the set, and a capsule collection for boys and girls ages 4 to 14 was born. Ten percent of the sale of each Maleficent by Stella McCartney Kids item purchased in Stella McCartney stores and online, will benefit the charity SOS Children’s Villages, which works to provide suitable homes for abandoned, orphaned and vulnerable children. * www.stellamccartney.com

of 6, Bill Viola had an experience he considers the most important in his life: he almost drowned. Thus, water is a dominant element in the American video artist’s works, 20 of which are shown in a major retrospective at the Parisian Grand Palais. For him, the exhibition is like an inner journey, divided into three phases around major metaphysical questions: Who am I? Where am I? Where am I going? For visitors, it is great an opportunity to be immersed in the 40 year career of a true master. * Until 21 July 2014, www. grandpalais.fr

Video art master

Top: The Dreamers (detail), 2013. Bottom: Tristan’s Ascension (The Sound of a Mountain Under a Waterfall), 2005.

The final chapter When ill health prevented Henri

From top: “Spirale” vase, 2004. The book cover. The showroom at the House of Baccarat headquarters in Paris, acquired in 1832. Study for candelabrum, c. 1855.

From top: Cate Blanchett, Los Angeles, 2004. The "Whoopi Goldberg" edition on Newson’s book stand. The "David Byrne" cover.

Robert Bayer, Basel © Succession Henri Matisse/DACS 2013. Succession Henri Matisse/DACS 2013. KiraPerov.

cclaimed for its high-quality traditional craftsmanship of fine crystal stemware, barware, candelabra, perfume bottles, and jewelry, Baccarat is known as a symbol of quality and refinement that has won over monarchs, heads of state, celebrities and artists alike all over the world. On the occasion of the house’s 250th anniversary, the book Baccarat 1764: Two Hundred and Fifty Years offers a lavish and in-depth look at its history, featuring specially commissioned photographs and previously unpublished drawings. Leafing through the sumptuous publication, with text by Murray Moss and Laurence Benaïm, one traces not only the history of Baccarat, but also of unique French craftsmanship, technological progress and important artistic partnerships, all of which are inspired by an untamed passion for excellence. * Rizzoli Publications, www.rizzoliusa.com

In 1999, Taschen published Helmut Newton’s SUMO, the biggest and most expensive book of the 20th century, with a specially designed stand by Philippe Starck. Now, the honor goes to Annie Leibovitz, who has photographed over the years some of the most famed actors, musicians, artists, writers, athletes and businesspeople of our time. Presented with a Marc Newson designed book stand and a supplementary essay compendium, the Annie Leibovitz SUMO comes in a leather-bound Art Edition of 1,000 signed and numbered copies with four dust jackets and an archival pigment print, and a Collector’s Edition of 9,000 signed and numbered copies available in four different cover photos. * www.taschen.com

Archives Baccarat. © BACCAR AT 1764: Two Hundred and Fifty Years, Rizzoli New York, 2013. Annie Leibovitz. Courtesy TASCHEN.

around the globe

At the age

Matisse from painting, he began to cut into painted paper with scissors to make maquettes for commissions, from books and stained glass window designs to tapestries and ceramics. London’s Tate Modern brings together around 120 of such works –created from 1943 until the artist’s death in 1954– in Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs.The exhibition re-examines the cut-outs in terms of the methods and materials that Matisse used, as well as their double lives, first as contingent and mutable in the studio and ultimately as permanent works through mounting and framing. * Until 7 September 2014, www.tate.org.uk

Spetses Spotlight 35

around the globe

Pierre Niney impersonating the famous French couturier in Jalil Lespert's film. Bottom: Gaspard Ulliel as Saint Laurent in the eponymous movie of Bonello, and French top model Aymeline Valade (Betty Catroux) in Cannes.

YVES SAINT LAURENT THE CINEMATIC LIFE OF A TROUBLED GENIUS

Two ambitious biographical films focusing on the late, great fashion designer's artistic genius and personal anguish, hit the screens in less than a year.

here are important differences in the way that directors Jalil Lespert and Bertrand Bonnello approached the life and times of arguably the most talented and acclaimed haute couture designer of the modern era. An actor turned director, Lespert told me in a brief encounter during the French Film Festival in Athens, that he did not have any particular interest in Yves Saint Laurent (that is the title of his film), nor was the fact that they are both Pieds-Noirs, born in the former French colonies in North Africa, a crucial element in getting involved in the first place. However, what he found intriguing were the conditions in which the designer evolved, having to overcome his agonies and the trappings of a profession he was not entirely ready to tackle. Lespert's film is a traditional biopic, in the sense that it explains a great deal of Saint Laurent's personality through his traumatized childhood, as well as it covers a long period of his life and work, rounding up its well executed third act well before he retired

000 Spetses Spotlight

from the business. Pierre Berge, the life partner and co-founder of the world-class fashion house, gave his unconditional approval, and the lush production profited from authentic locations, such as the atelier and the Marrakesh resort (albeit not the Paris apartment), as well as selected, valuable pieces from the original YSL collections. The film was a solid success in French cinemas, and the 25 year old actor who portrays Yves Saint Laurent, the ComedieFrancaise regular Pierre Niney, took advantage of his striking resemblance to the designer and dug deep into his complex psyche, achieving a stunning performance, which surely secures his third Cesar nomination next year. Guillame Gallienne played Berge remarkably, and it seemed that French cinema paid its dues to a tormented celebrity, in a life story that needed to be said. That is why everyone expressed doubt when BertandBonnello, director of esoteric, arty films, like Apollonide and Tiresia, announced his plans on his take on the same subject, shortly before the release of the first one. Called simply Saint Laurent, the film focuses on the decade 1967-1976, and makes the Lespert's film look like an hagiography. Saint Laurent by Bonnello is an ambiguous partner, suspicious to strangers, selfish and susceptible to infidelities, even bitchy when in fear. The director chose the well-documented facts of Saint Laurent's life that suited the portrait of a man who succumbed to seduction and destructive addictions, and incessantly sought his identification to the ideal, perfect woman, alternating muses, such as Loulou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux, who inspired him and became best friends and confidantes. This does not mean that Bonnello fails to explore the humanity in the troubled existence of a

genius: his film is more soulful, sultry and carnal, almost impessionistic, in the way that it isolates specific incidents and uses unusual angles to contrast the material opulence and the triumphant splashes of color and texture, that reached its apotheosis in the seminal, unforgettable 1976 ethnic collection, which the designer considered his sole, truly artistic highlight. While Gaspard Ulliel played Saint Laurent with gusto and guts, the real surprise of the film lay elsewhere: in an inspired and totally unexpected casting choice, Bonnello hired the virtually unemployable Helmut Berger, Luchino Visconti's darling star and one of the handsomest men of the 60's and 70's European cinema, to incarnate the French designer in the last phase of his life. Although they do not look exactly alike, Saint Laurent and Berger share an erratic life of excess and selfdestruction, addiction to drugs and alcohol, as well as beauty that faded to poor health and introspection. In this melancholic, confessional final chapter, Berger was in perfect and sad harmony with the quiet death spiral that became the reclusive Saint Laurent. It is as if Saint Laurent and Berger clashed violently with beauty and youth, and lived long enough to lament the silent tragedy of loneliness and old age. Pierre Berge was furious at Bonnello's version and not only did he not give his consent and support, but threatened to take legal action against the producers of the film, just before the world premiere in the Cannes Film Festival. Bertrand Bonnello stated that the absence of the seal of approval from the maitre's alter ego gave him a sense of freedom, instead of restricting his vision. The film did not win any prizes, but after the screening, the viewers that did not feel that two Saint Laurent films in less than a year was a fashion overdose of sorts, agreed that the stylistically contrasting versions complemented each other and gave two satisfying points of view of a dramatic and creative life, in an exciting and bygone era. THODORIS Koutsogiannopoulos

Reclaiming a heritage Under the guidance of Barbara TerzakiPallikari, the mission “Penelope Gandhi” aims at preserving the tradition of weaving not just as a museum exhibit but as an everyday activity for the women of Crete.

t Barbara Terzaki-Pallikari seated on her own loom which travelled last winter from Crete to the Benaki Museum in Athens.

38 Spetses Spotlight

B Y PA R I S K O R M A R I S P h o t os : I oa n n a R o u f opo u l o u

he success of an exhibition can either be measured by tickets or by the enthusiasm of the viewers. Last winter, the special exhibition-event presented by the “Mission Penelope Gandhi – The Sacred Art of Weaving in Crete” at the central building of the Benaki Museum in Athens enjoyed both. During November and December, weavers from all over Crete were flown in pairs to Athens to weave everyday on a traditional loom, while every Saturday and Sunday an array of highly esteemed scholars –among which the eminent university professor and Byzantinologist, Hélène Glykatzi-Ahrweiler– gave short speeches under the title “Small studies of thread… and meaning”, a wordplay in Greek with the words “nima” (thread) and “noima” (meaning). After one of those Sunday morning gatherings, I was descending the stairs of the museum towards the exit followed by two women who could have been mother and daughter. “I don’t know why I got so emotional”, said the younger one, wiping the tears from her eyes. “It’s because looming is a part of our psyche, the Greek collective conscious”, replied the other. “The turnout at our events at Benaki was a surprise to the museum”, tells me Barbara Terzaki-Pallikari, initiator and coordinator of the Mission Penelope Gandhi. “Apart from receiving more than 30,000 visitors and students from 200 Greek schools, we had requests to present a similar programme in major international museums, such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The logistics for something like this are daunting, but we will try to make it possible in the future”. Present at the Benaki museum day in, day out, she was usually wearing woven dresses featuring traditional patterns like the double-headed axe used to decorate ancient Cretan urns. Her appreciation of those handmade creations is uncountable – and hers is not the only one. As we speak, she shows me on her tablet photos of a young bride whose wedding gown took months to be woven, featuring an 18th century pattern which belongs to the Victorian & Albert Museum collection and was reproduced under special licence. I also see photographs from

a baptism, where all the linens were woven with symbols, from a byzantine cross and a Greek flag, to the names of the child and his godparents. Terzaki-Pallikari explains me how each hand woven fabric is a labour of love full of symbolism, and even mentions the names of French fashion houses interested in placing exclusive orders – I’m not sure if I’m allowed to name names, but don’t be surprised if you hear about collaborations with the likes of Dior and Lanvin. “In Crete each household used to have its own loom, a gathering point par excellence”, says Terzaki-Pallikari. “People weaved fabrics to make their own clothes, to use in the house, to offer as gifts, to decorate their temples, to honour their Saints. Unfortunately, during the last four decades things have changed dramatically. A lot of looms have been burnt in wood stoves or left to rotten in village basements. I regret to say that the Chinese have stolen patterns of ours and export fabrics to Greece that are then sold as Greek”. It was the realisation that all the Greek flags available in the market today are “Made in China” that led to another special project of the mission: “We decided to weave a Greek flag to commemorate the 100th anniversary since the union of Crete with Greece. It had to be made by Greek yarn which proved to be a huge challenge, since no such yarns had been produced for decades. Luckily, we came across a Cretan family who had amongst their most precious family heirlooms some loops of silk kept in a chest. We used natural colours like the ones used in the past to dye the blue parts of the flag and gave the fabric to an octogenarian retired flag maker to sew it. Obviously touched, he told us it was the finest fabric he had ever layed his hands on! On the day of the anniversary, 1 December 2013, the flag was offered to the Political and Military authorities of the island at a special ceremony. There was a Mass during which the flag seemed to be moving– although there wasn’t the slightest breath of air, as if it had a life of its own. When it was about to be raised at the Firkas fortress at Chania, the flag was slipping through the fingers of those holding it, eager to fly”.  Spetses Spotlight 39

The setting at the Benaki Museum of Athens last December. One of the oldest women of Crete still weaving. Barbara Terzaki-Pallikari at a local event. Threads awaiting to become fabric.

JOINING THE PAST WITH THE PRESENT, YOUNGER GENERATIONS WITH TRADITIONAL VALUES, AND CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT ARE FEW OF THE GOALS AND BENEFITS OF THE MISSION NAMED «PENELOPE GANDHI». The mission Penelope Gandhi was initiated within the framework of the so-called University of the Mountains (UoM), a non-profit company formed in 2008 by the University of Crete to bring the academia closer to society. “There was a need to combine academic knowledge with the wisdom of experience gained from real life”, explains Terzaki-Pallikaris, whose husband, Dr. Ioannis Pallikaris (the ophthalmologist who performed the first LASIK procedure on a human eye, in 1989, and developed Epi-LASIK), is a founding member of UoM. “Each month, teams of volunteers –from Professors of Medicine, to nurses, students and various other professionals– visit Cretan villages in order to examine patients unable or unwilling to visit the cities, and offer them help. We also organise what we call the coffee shop gatherings, where we discuss the people’s troubles and worries. It was in these that we realised the problems and challenges faced by unskilled women who want to provide to their family. Traditional weaving not only preserves an ancient skill, but also allows women to work in the comfort and safety of their own house. When we started, there were no signs of the impending financial crisis. Now, the need is more dire. The connection of the art of weaving to the appropriate political stance has been known since antiquity. Via the exercise of the body and the mind, equity and justice could prevail without violence – and weaving is a great form of exercise». The one who came up with the name of the mission was “a professor, a tireless reformer of Crete and its civilisation”, says Terzaki-Pallikari. “In Homer’s epic poems, Penelope –the loyal wife of Ulysses– delayed marrying any of the aspiring suitors while her husband was away by declaring

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that she would do so once she finished weaving a shroud for her son. By day she weaved, by night she was unpicking it. As for Gandhi, this exceptional advocate of non-violence introduced the idea of weaving as a means to struggle against India’s conquerors”. Ever since it was initiated, the mission has received no financial assistance at all: “Up to now, all of us participating in the Penelope Gandhi team have improvised with money of our own. We hope that people will be inspired by our efforts and support this sacred mission, which aims to preserve and promote a national heritage”. Recording and preserving traditional weaving techniques is not what the mission is all about. There is also the effort to produce quality Cretan yarns by employing organic means of cultivation and farming, through which pure Greek cotton, linen, wool and silk will be available. Accordingly, all yarns will be dyed with natural colours, exactly as they were centuries ago. Thus, the mission will reach to a point where its weavers will be offering products bearing all the certification necessary to be considered sustainable and Made in Greece. Although making a profit is not one of the mission’s goals, it is certain that there will eventually be profits for the weavers involved. There are thoughts of a capsule collection of limited edition numbered items, while all other requests are being thoroughly considered. “We believe we should bow to mother Earth”, notes TerzakiPallikari. “We must intervene in the systems of production with knowledge, faith and justice. We must return to our inherited ideas and precious values. We need to appreciate anew the power of the handmade. The folk art of weaving in Crete and Greece in general is an irreplaceable cultural chapter”. * www.panoreon.gr/gandhi 

Spetses Spotlight 41

SPETSES CLASSIC YACHT R ACE

2014

The 4th Spetses Classic Yacht Race will take place from the 19th to the 22nd of June organized by the Yacht Club of Greece (Race Organiser) and the Poseidonion Grand Hotel (Hospitality Organiser).

Set to sail! 42 Spetses Spotlight

Left: Aegean Classic Schooners racing in the Spetses straits. Right: Alexandra, skippered by Ioannis Maroulakis won the Spirit of Chivalry Chivas Honour Award SCYR 2013. The magnificent caique Faneromeni skippered by Nikos Riginos. Christophe Lemarie & Ioannis Maroulakis.

In addition to the large number of

participants, last year’s race honored 5 Olympic Gold Medalists in sailing who were racing aboard «Afroessa», a traditional Greek caique built in the shipyards of Koilada. During the race, visitors enjoyed live commentary by Manos Roudas while at the same time having the chance to ‘get to know’ the various yachts through the pages of a catalogue provided by the Organising Committee containing the history and information of each one. One of the unique aspects of the race is that, as opposed to most other sailing events, one can view most of the action from the shore. Spectators gather along the Spetses coastline from Dapia to Palio Limani to enjoy unhindered views of the magnificent classic 

AUTHENTICITY, CULTURAL HERITAGE & FAIR PLAY ARE CELEBRATED AMONG THE SCYR CREW.

Spetses Spotlight 43

SPETSES CLASSIC YACHT R ACE

SPETSES CLASSIC YACHT RACE IS UNIQUE IN THAT

THE RACE MAY BE VIEWED FOR THE MOST PART FROM THE SHORE.

2014

yachts, Aegean classic schooners and lateens racing. This year’s event promises even more excitement as spectators will have the chance to converse with Olympic Gold Meddalists, to watch a specially designed “Karagiozis” show and also to enjoy once again live updates and information about the race while lounging in the veranda of the Poseidonion Grand Hotel. There is also a great social agenda planned, whose highlights include the Welcome Cocktail, promising to be an evening of great experiences and superbly presented cocktails by CHIVAS REGAL as well as a crew souvlaki party. Rivalry is expected between all

44 Spetses Spotlight

participants, since CHIVAS REGAL, Gold Sponsor of the event, will once again present the “Spirit of Chivalry – Chivas Honour Award – Spetses Classic Yacht Race 2014” to the crew which demonstrates high skillfulness and team spirit during the races. Christophe Lemarie, CEO of Pernod Ricard Hellas stated: “We are especially proud that , for the past three years, the Spetses Classic Yacht Race, with CHIVAS REGAL as its Gold Sponsor, has supported the values of team spirit, ethics, authenticity, cultural heritage and fair play, values which Chivas Regal identifies with and embodies”. 

From left: Carina, in front of the magnificent Poseidonion Grand Hotel. Glaramara, skippered by Stratis Andreadis. Alexandra X, racing in the Lateen category, skippered by Stephanos Chandakas. The Spetsiot caique Ag. Georgios.

Spetses Spotlight 45

The Poseidonion Grand Hotel has been a landmark on the Spetses skyline for a century with its exceptional architecture echoing hotels of Cote d’Azur style. As a testament to its centenary anniversary “Spetses Spotlight” caught up with renowned historian Petros Haritatos, to ask his opinion about what the future holds.

Clockwise: The legendary verandah in 1914, the original architectural rendering, the interior of the La Cupola Suite, the spa pool, an open air concert.

The next 100 B y P e t r o s H a r i tato s

The Poseidonion Hotel was born in 1914 as a new

star in an empty sky. Today it is part of a constellation named the Greek Riviera. How will this constellation evolve over the next 100 years, and the Poseidonion within it? On what factors does it depend? It depends, as usual, on the vagaries of luck which bring reversals and opportunities. And also on personal willpower, as the history of Poseidonion and Spetses illustrates. The role of personal willpower is obvious in Spetses, which would not exist as it is today, with its forest and the Poseidonion, were it not for the powerful wants of Sotirios Anargyros a century earlier. Around 1900 the island

46 Spetses Spotlight

years

was at a standstill. Its shipping industry had declined, its men were emigrating and a house cost less than a rowing boat. Poverty had exiled Anargyros in 1868 and 30 years later he returned a very wealthy man, with his perceptions honed by his travels. Where others saw fog, he saw opportunities. He took advantage of his fortune, since wealth can amplify man's desires, for better or for worse. The money which he spent produced fruit which we are enjoying today, a century later. Anargyros stood alone. Today there are many people with well-honed perceptions and wealth in the constellation of the "Greek Riviera". With strong willpower capable of opening new roads over the next 100 years. But where would they be leading? We can imagine three scenarios:

unfavourable, intermediate and ideal. Each scenario depends not only on luck, but also on the position of noblesse oblige within a person's willpower. Noblesse oblige is a French expression which was adopted in English and in German. We use it here as is, since there is no equivalent in Greek. It means that if you have an elevated social position, power or a large fortune, then you have increased responsibilites and duties. For example, the great national benefactors Benakis and Averoff grew up with this imperative. Let us see where noblesse oblige stands within each scenario. In the unfavourable scenario noblesse oblige is absent while it appears to be present, thanks to clever stage

management. Powerful people, in this scenario, appear as especially sensitive and morally superior, by seeming to care for public goods such as tradition, the environment or culture. They foster high expectations without fulfilling them and evade criticism by displaying their haloes. From politicians they seek advantages for their own property, not for the broader community. The result, in this case, would be a Greek Riviera with a vulgar core and a distinguished appearance. In the intermediate scenario, there is no noblesse oblige among the powerful and this does not bother them. Perhaps it exists among people without power or wealth, but how far can they influence things? Cynicism reigns instead of hypocrisy. The powerful make their

presence felt as for example in Mykonos and do not feign a moral superiority. Such a Greek Riviera would have a vulgar core and an insolent appearance. Noblesse oblige is present in the ideal scenario. If Anargyros cared only for

his wallet, then he would have built only the Poseidonion. He had no financial benefit in buying nearly half the island to turn it into a forest or to build the School. He cultivated relationships with politicians in order to better serve his country, not for his own benefit. To consolidate his vision he bequeathed his fortune to a state foundation. But how could he transmit his sense of noblesse oblige to the administrators appointed by every minister of Education, usually for personal reasons, as demonstrated by the

mediocrity and transience of most of the governing boards. Fortunately, one of the rare exceptions (Apostolidis presidency 2000-2004) saved the Poseidonion from collapsing. It asked seasoned hoteliers to submit proposals. They replied that it would not be profitable to restore and run it, thus giving the opportunity to a manager from the shipping industry, Manolis Vordonis, to shoulder the risk and put Poseidonion on the new trajectory which we can see today. A decisive impetus is provided here by Marina Coutarelli, with popular sports events which extend the tourist season for Poseidonion and for the entire island, supported by hundreds of volunteers. If other bold initiatives are taken without neglecting noblesse oblige, then the Greek Riviera will possess nobility both in its core and in its appearance. 

Spetses Spotlight 47

The Power of “We” Dozens of volunteers and all the Spetsiots who have warmly embraced the institutions of Spetsathlon and the Spetses mini Marathon, take pride in the absolute success of these athletic organizations. The whole of the island is now prouder than ever of them.

Spetses is an island well known for its long

and rich naval history, culture and stunning architecture. Located at a distance of just 54 nautical miles from Athens and with a predominantly Mediterranean climate, Spetses is an ideal location for athletic events since the temperatures are mild and the conditions fair all year round. Since 2011, this postcard of an island has been the focus of two massively successful athletic events – the Spetses mini Marathon (always held during the second week-end of October and the Spetses Triathlon (Spetsathlon, held in late April). The island’s stunning scenery which is complimented by the unique architecture of the main town creates the perfect backdrop for the races and assures runners, swimmers and triathletes of a memorable time.

48 Spetses Spotlight

The 2ndSpetsathlon which was held this year between the 25th to the 27th April, with the support of the Hellenic Triathlon Federation, attracted a record number of participants from every corner of Greece -and the world. With over 400 triathletes, 200 cyclists for the Bike Race, and more than 1500 visitors it brought visitors from 17 countries to Spetses who enjoyed a great event with summer like temperatures and advice from renowned athletes such as Yiannis Tamourides. The president of the Organizing Committee, Marina Coutarelli, and her team, specially designed the routes to showcase the islands’ naturally beauty, and unique architecture and culture. Thus, bikers whizzed past the famous Anargyreios and Korgialeneios School of Spetses, and the mansion of benefactor Sotirios Anargyros and runners passed through the picturesque old harbour with its cobbled streets and fragrant lavender and jasmine courtyards. But at the very heart of the success of the event lies the island community. The Spetsiots that open their arms and hearts to thousands of visitors. More than 250 local volunteers, from high school students and housewives to municipal workers and retirees, tireless in their efforts they ensure that everything goes smoothly. They even closed their shops during the Spetsathlon to make sure the athletes ran unhindered, clapping and cheering on young and old. The picture was of an island painted with the colours of raceshirts, bunting, and bracelets. “Both Spetsathlon and Spetses mini Marathon are an inspiration to all of us and I am proud and thrilled by the tireless efforts of the volunteers” explains Panagiotis Lyrakis, the Mayor of Spetses, who together with the Vice Mayors Constantinos Tziamos and Spyros Fardellos, have been vigilant in their support and help of both events. Working closely with Dimitrios Anargyros (a descendant of Sotirios Anargyros) who heads the volunteer task force they ensure that Spetses is welcoming and ready for the thousands of visitors that descend upon the island during both events. “The success of the Spetsathlon and the Spetses mini Marathon is a result of the amazing and unique team we have created with dozens of volunteers and Spetsiots of all ages who have warmly embraced our every effort. I would personally like to thank all the people of Spetses for their undivided support of what we do,” stated an emotional Marina Coutarelli, who has been named an honorary citizen of Spetses, during the Spetsathlon Awards Ceremony. Dimitrios Anargyros, agrees completely. “Long before these athletic events started taking place, volunteerism was rarely present. Perhaps once or twice a year, when a few people would gather up in order to help clean a particular beach. But the Spetsathlon and the Spetses mini Marathon have taught Spetsiots the importance of “we”. Now, one sees whole families, mothers with their husbands and children helping, non stop. And they are all proud of it. Proud of their island and everything they accomplished as a group. If you ask me, without their presence, none of these large scale athletic events could ever come true, the way that they did, so succesfully. Every single one of the volunteers present during the events is irreplaceable and of vital importance”, he adds smiling. Petros Petrakopoulos, Secretary of the Anargyreios and Korgialenios School of Spetses (AKSS) is also a proud volunteer. “I decided to volunteer out of love for my island-

The Spetsathlon Volunteers gather on the steps of the Kapodiastriaki School for a final meeting just before this year’s event.

and its future development. It simply would have been unthinkable for me not to. At the moment, while waiting for the Spetses mini Marathon to take place in October, I am leading a volunteer team professionals and Spetsiots to help build the main boat house of the newly founded Spetses Yachting Club. It’s almost like... I can’t stop volunteering. “ Zoe Porfyri, another volunteer and a young mother is also contributing in every possible way, in order to support the island and the organizations. Should one ask her why, she smiles. “It’s like a wave of enthusiasm and joy. You never stop to think whether you should indeed volunteer or not. You just do. You jump in, without any second thoughts, the minute you hear the organization teams need help. You know that athletic events of this scale help the island in the long run. But one never rationalizes it at that point. It’s actually the goose bumps you get from being there, watching the athletes achieve the closest there is to miracles and seeing an old man handing them water, at the finish line. Proud of them, of himself, of his island. That’s all the fuel any Spetsiot needs”. Jenny Lapata, President of the Spetses Womens’ Association is a Spetsiot by choice (she left Athens for this beautiful scenery back in 1998) and she simply cannot imagine being a vital part of the island’s life without volunteering. “Maybe it’s the fact that I have all this energy inside of me, bursting out. Maybe it’s my love for the island. That majestic feeling

that only the giver could explain. But being a Spetsiot equals now being a volunteer, being a vital, kicking part of these excellently organized sports events”. The Spetses Womens Association is already busy baking and freezer over 1000 pies needed to feed hungry swimmers in the upcoming Spetses mini Marathon in October 2014. “Of course I am a volunteer too”, says Litsa Papanikolaou, a Spetsiot and one of the first volunteers. “It is very important that I give the perfect example for my 14-year-old daughter. If kids don’t learn the value of volunteering, the exhaustion and the unconditional giving and sharing, the importance of being part of one great team that highly respects the word “together”, then they will achieve nothing in years to come. I wanted my daughter to learn this and practice it, not only because of me and while I am still by her side. I want her to always volunteer and help. Even when I’ll be long gone”, she adds solemnly. And, yes. The island of Spetses and all the Spetsiots, are already prepared for the Spetses mini Marathon 2014which will take place from the 10th to the 12th October 2014. And note this:the Spetses mini Marathon – was awarded the Bronze Award in Sports Tourism for Excellence and Best Practices by the Tourism Awards held under the aegis of the Greek Ministry of Tourism and the National Tourism Organization. That is the very sense of optimism and joie de vivre, so lacking in our everyday lives. 

Spetses Spotlight 49

more than 400 triathletes from 17 different countries and 200 cyclists gathered in Spetses in late April to participate in Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest triathlon! P h otos : N i kos K a r a n i ko l a s , P a n a g i o t i s M a v r o m a tt i s

To win is to participate 50 Spetses Spotlight

Swimmers competing during the Endurance distance which was comprised of 1500 m of open water swimming.

Athanasia Tsoumeleka

Grigoris Skoularikis

SP Tableware Team

The premise of a triathlon is simple: Swim, bike and run. The payoff the tired exuberance of finishing the race - is well worth the effort.

Giorgos Stanathiotis

Deniz Dimaki

Panos Vlahos

Lucy Fais Marina Coutarelli

The taste OF ATHENS

Niki Mytarea bears witness to the rich tapestry of the modern culinary scene of Athens, exploring flavors, ingredients and techniques used by famous Greek chefs.

life pleasures

Dimitris Katrivesis – Nikkei Cuisine

Peruvian cuisine is the new shinning start in gastronomy and is attracting the interest of famous chef like FerranAdrià from Catalonia. «Peruvian and Japanese cuisine culture complete one another, zen meats the spicy jalapeno», says DimitrisKatravesis, chef at the ‘Oozora’ restaurant, one of the

finest of his generation, boasting a spot at Spain’s El Bulli. «The first settlers of Peru in 1800 were Japanese and they created their own cuisine, Nikkei

(he who was not born in Japan), explains Dimitris and he adds that «Peruvian cuisine brings together primitive raw materials from tropical fruits of the

jungle, roots from the Andes to seafood from the Pacific, absorbing Asian and European influences. It became popular thanks to FerranAdria and it deserves it - this food full of joy, with its spicy Peruvian ingredients busrting like fireworks in your mouth».Katrivesis has therefore combined Japanese techniques, Greek raw materials and Peruvian spice to create magical dishes of a delicious culture. When you ask him what tiger milk is, that can be found in the Nikkei cuisine, eh answers: «It is one of the main vinaigrettes that accompanies or marinates raw fish. It is made from the hot yellow peppers, Peruvian lime and it all comes together evaporated milk. I will make a Greek version of tiger milk with fish roe, buttermilk and yogurt». 

Spetses Spotlight 55

life pleasures

Sotiris Evaggelou: Tudor goes raw

2 Aris Vezenes

Established in 2011, “Vezene” is a tiny eatery located opposite the Hilton Hotel in the center of Athens, known for its sustainable approach to grass fed meat, eclectic seafood and the legendary Deal Closer dessert. Greek American Chef ArisVezenes is the first to actively introduce whole-animal butchery and ingredients foraging to his inventive Greco-

56 Spetses Spotlight

Mediterranean bistro menu. His kitchen consists of a brick oven and a cast iron grill, where he doesn’t usecharcoalinstead, he creates “embers” or “brasas”, as the Spanish call them, which are basically dried olive wood logs thrown in the oven hours before service. Vezene essentially applies simplicity to his recipes while practicing old world techniques such as smoking, aging, pickling and fermentation. «We

Sotiris Evaggelou is one of the best craftsmen of modern Greek cuisine. He belongs to the generation of chefs who, even though they were professionally trained in French cuisine and its techniques and materials, they went in search of something more familiar, more Mediterranean, more Greek and definitely healthier. Many times have wondered whether a dish has been cooked for the ideal time. However, there is a new trend in cooking where cooking times are completely overlooked and instead goes for dishes that have had no thermal processing. We have the chance to sample one such menu, titled ‘Tudor goes raw’, by Executive Chef Sotiris Evaggelou at the Tudor Hall restaurant. Shellfish, fish and meats in their original forms.Dishes with delicious fresh materials which speak directly to the heart. Real, light flavours such as Aegean sea bass Carpaccio with tomato, marjoram and olives, octopus Carpaccio with artichokes and fish roe powder, oysters on ice with lemon or lightly cooked with aromatic herbs and lemon and also ‘Steak’ tartar with French fries for our ‘hard core’ clients.

love to play around with flavors while keeping a comfort level by eliminating intimidating titles and culinary techniques when writing the menu, even though we might choose to use them». Unique dishes include the slow braised, olive smoked lamb neck pie, the 90 day dry aged beef rib cap and last but not least a unique type of langoustine outsourced from the isleof Meganisi in the Ionian Sea called Kolohtypa. It

Dessert also follows the same philosophy such as pineapple Carpaccio with white chocolate cream, lime and mango sorbet with mint. This amazing menu may be enjoyed in the restaurant’s elegant hall on the 7th floor of the King George Hotel. Bravo Chef! Tudor Hall, Vas. Georgiou A’ 3, Syntagma, tel.210 33 30 265 

surfaces only in May-June. The restaurant’s interior is designed with the primary objective of creating a crystal clear identity of informal, unpretentious and unobtrusive elegance. It features an indoor dining room and an outdoor allglass terrace staged on top of a secret under glass greenhouse. Vezene, 11 Vrasida Street, Athens, 11528, GR / Tel: 2107232002 / www.vezene.gr / Dinner Only: 7pm – 2am

Spetses Spotlight 57

life plesures

Stay, Live & Play: Celebration of life – the Nikki way

The originally 1970’s building turned into a refined, elegant, lifestyle resort featuring Nikki Beach Club and Pool bar, an impressive sky rooftop lounge and a seductive Nikki Spa by Espa and Tone fitness

This summer Greece welcomes the first (globally) Nikki Beach Resort & Spa. Right in Porto Heli. By Ioanna Alexatou

Nikki beach

has a vibe and ambience not found anywhere else in the world attracting the luxury traveller and jet-set global elite. Its brand new segment, Nikki Beach Hotels & Resorts shares the magic, featuring a collection of lifestyle boutique properties in highly desirable beachfront and urban sites, with the first one opening this summer in Porto Heli. Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Porto Heli offers an unrivalled experience, reflecting timeless and sustainable luxury design subtly adopted to indigenous key architectural details of the region. With oversized suites, state of the art technologies and first class

entertainment, the resort is innovative & glamorous at the same time. Being the only seafront hotel in central Porto Heli, it offers panoramic views of the sandy beaches, the town, the gulf and the crystal clear blue waters, while a modern yacht club and a pontoon will service the demands of some of the most elite clientele in the Mediterranean. Nikki Beach was born to celebrate the life of Jack Penrod’s daughter Nicole, who passed away after a car accident in early 1997. The first Café Nikki opened Miami Beach and was an immediate success with Nikki Beach gradually spreading its magic to posh global locations -from St. Tropez and St. Bart to Mexico and Koh Samui. “The opening of Café Nikki on December 24th, 1997 was a start of our new way of life” founder and Owner Jack Penrod states “Our family made the commitment to enjoy every day to the fullest and apply this way of thinking to our business life as well”. www.nikkibeachhotels.com

YOUR

NEW LOVE Ανακαλύψτε μαλακές καρδιές από σως καφέ κρυμμένες σε βελούδινο παγωτό τιραμισού. NΕΟ Häagen-Dazs Secret Sensations Tiramisu

The “Sexiest Place on Earth

Al Pacino, Brad Pitt, Cameron Diaz, George Clooney, Gerard Butler, Madonna, Scarlett Johansson & Woody Allen, among many others – love the ambience of Nikki beach clubs featuring extravagant and plush sun beds, attentive and friendly service, delicious menus and lavish parties.

58 Spetses Spotlight

PA R I S

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TO K YO

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MADRID

•

LO N DO N

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AT H EN S

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RIO DE JANEIRO

life plesures

Gastronomic retreats

in Ermioni, Porto Heli, Xinitsa and Iliokastro A gastronomic stroll through Ermioni is a must. Your senses will be overwhelmed by the smell of traditional bakeries selling "tyganites" (crepes), cinnamon cookies, sweet mince pies and almond cakes. The area is also famous for its handmade pasta.

Lazy summer days in Greece are nonchalantly

enjoyed by the beach typically with a glass of ouzo and lashes of gossip. Driving down from Athens to Spetses, one passes by tiny tavernas so close to the sea your bare feet almost touch the water where octopus hanging out to dry in order to be later grilled and offered to ouzo drinkers is a typical sight.

Ouzo, the Greek. Summer. Beaches and cool seas in all the shades of blue. Sunburnt faces cooled by the summer breeze. Casual meetings take off with nibbles by the beach accompanied by a glass of ouzo. The clear liquid flows into the crowd’s tall, slim glasses. Ice or cool water release its complicated aromas while giving it a milky colour because of the aniseed. Octopus, hot off the grill, asserts its claim over the ouzo as it arrives along with taramosalata and marinated mackerel. Meze and ouzo make for a fine company. The aperitif flirts with savory dishes such as salted tunny fish, mackerel and salted sardines. It loves the salty flavor of fish roe, pickles and also cured beef. It goes well with a rosy red tomato sprinkled with sea salt and capers. Good company, along with the aroma of aniseed, is required though to get the mood going. The secret recipe followed by each distiller – mixing aniseed and aromatic herbs with grain alcohol and good quality water – defines the flavors of each ouzo. The mix is distilled in special copper cauldrons and the alcohol content of a good ouzo is between 40%-50%. The

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name ouzo has been established as being Greek since 1989, which means ouzo may only be produced and named in Greece. Ouzo of Plomari Aroma and finesse. The third distillation of the ‘heart of Plomari ouzo by Isidoros Arvanitis gives justice to its quality. Crystalline, with aromas of aniseed, mastic, fennel, cinnamon and chamomile that penetrate the senses and with a strong, velvety flavor and a persistent aftertaste, it is a fantastic aperitif. 42% vol. Ouzo Barbayiannis Since 1860, six generations of the Barbayannis family passionately and knowledgeably create the traditional recipe which demands the 100% distillation of ouzo. The fine, clear sheen conquers your heart from the first sip. With a pleasant aroma of aniseed and aromatic plants and a smooth flavor it is an excellent accompaniment for a seafood meze. 46% vol. Ouzo Karoni Special Authentic, special ouzo. Faithfully following the creator’s original recipe from 1869 in Nafplion, it has a strong, rich aroma of aniseed with an obvious presence of coriander and fennel and is smooth and easy to drink. 44% vol.

«Marivon» A small, welcoming tavern hosted by Marivon from France, who governs the kitchen with entertainment. Everything here is tasty, real with a touch of creativity. Take a bite of the juicy, skinned tomato covered in olive oil and discover the hints of cumin – perfect for dipping Marivon’s fresh homemade bread into. The cote de veau pour deux with handmade French fries and Dijon mustard is an explosion of flavours. Lamb roasted in the wood-fired oven is also delicious. Enjoy the sweet finale with Marivon’s homemade ice cream, the piece de resistance being the bitter almond flavor. You may also choose the dammeblanche – vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and hot chocolate. Divine! Iliokastro Argolidas, tel. 27540 91352 «Papadias» An historic fish tavern filled with fashionable guests. Excellent choices of meats and oven cooked dishes also. Porto Heli, tel. 27540 51322. «Tzieris» Small tavern with seating literally on the seafront.Serves fresh fish and seafood. Meat lovers will not be disappointed either. Madrakia Ermionis, tel. 27540 31846. «Sto Dromo ton Agion» Family run tavern. Enjoy homemade food in a flower filled garden. Ag. Anargyroi, tel. 27540 32145 «Spyradreas» Fresh fish, lobster and slipper lobster pasta in a traditional setting by the sea. Ermioni, tel. 27540 31380 «Bakaliko Ola ta Kala» On the right side of the harbor, Mrs Poupa’s delicious creations await to give you a taste of tradition with hand kneaded bread, homemade pies and a variety of dishes and traditional products from all over Greece. Porto Heli, tel. 27540 52002 «Taverna Hinitsa» Fresh fish and meats with Mediterranean recipes beside the calm waters of the bay. Hinitsa.

On the way to Spetses Heading to Spetses via northern Peloponnese, cruise the countryside for VINEYARDS, historic sites, and scenic vistas, guaranteed to help you unwind. B Y I S A b E L l A Z A m p E TA K I

The chapel of Saint George, hidden inside a giant hole near Didima village Agiorgitiko, Saint Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grape, is Nemeaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s native variety.

000 Spetses Spotlight

Spetses Spotlight 63

here are two ways to reach Spetses island- either by hydrofoil from Piraeus port, or by car. The second option can be easily extended into a relaxed three or four day road trip across Northern Peloponnese. It is definitely worth dedicating a couple of days to explore archaeological sites such as the Palace of Mycenae and the ancient theatre of Epidaurus, to visit the idyllic city of Nafplio and the wine country of Nemea and to cross Europe’s oldest bridge. Nemea’s wine country 110 km southwest of Athens Half-god Heracules was sent to Nemea to slay the Nemean lion, but most modern day visitors are on a different mission: to taste one of Greece’s most important red wines. Agiorgitiko, Saint George’s grape, is Nemea’s native grape variety and it has been grown in these enclosed valleys since the 5th century BC. Today, there are more than 40 wineries in the area, most of which welcome visitors upon request. Among them, Semeli is a winery where you can arrange to do anything from wine tasting to taking a guided tour or staying overnight at one of the guesthouses. Nafplio: a blend of Venetian and neoclassical architecture 150 km southwest of Athens The streets of this iconic city are rich in Venetian, Ottoman and early-20th century Greek heritage. The city’s special charm accounts for the fact that it is a major weekend destination for Athenians. On foot or by bike(the city of Naflpio features a bikerental system) is the idealway to explore its alleys where you will come across buildings as diverse as a Venetian naval warehouse, which now houses the Archaelogical Museum, a mosque built by the Ottoman Turks,and Saint Spyridon’s church, with the bullet that killed Greece’s first Governor, framed on the wall. Also worth visiting is the Palamidi castle, whose imposing walls seem to succumb to gravity and roll down the hill towards the port. You may opt to climb the 999 steps that lead to its gate or simply drive up and save your energy for exploring the inside of this Venetian fortress. Another Nafplio landmark, accessible by boat, is the Venetian castle of Bourtzi, right in the city’s harbor. You cannot leave Nafplio without grabbing a bite at one of its restaurants or tavernas. If in the mood for fresh fish, try Arapakos and Savouras restaurants. Alternately, Noulis is a taverna where you can savor traditional dishes such as lamb with eggplants and rabbit stew with onions. At authentic Antica Gelateria di Roma, take owner Marcello’s advice and try the bitter chocolate and the hazelnut nocciola gelato or the lemon sorbet, made with lemons grown in the wider area of Argolida. Mycenae 120 km southwest of Athens Northern Peloponnese is rich in archaeological sites, the most famous of which is that of Mycenae. Walking the narrow passage among the ashlar block walls that leads to the tomb of Atreus, one certainly senses a perennial feel of grandeur. You can tell that this construction was built to commemorate a king, even without seeing the golden mask that covered his face-now on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. Around Naflpio, one can visit a number of archaeological sites dating back to the Bronze Age: the cyclopean walls of the ancient city of Tiryns, a pyramid tower at Helliniko, severaltholos tombs and the megalithic bridge of Kazarma. Kazarma bridge and Didima caves 15 and 45 km east of Nafplio

64 Spetses Spotlight

Kazarma stone bridge is considered to be the oldest in Europe. Yet, it continues to serve the same purpose as it did thousands of years ago: it allows people to cross the stream that seasonally runs below it. The fact that the bridge of Kazarma stands right there on the side of the road and that it takes nothing more than pulling over to visit it, is one of the special charms of Greece. It is one of those antiquities that are out there for you to explore and discover on your own. Cross the 22 meterlong bridge and marvel at the wedge that continues keeping the whole construction together for millennia. Locals from a nearby village told us that a human skeleton measuring 2,90 meters was found in the area, and suggested that Mycenaean constructions were undertaken by prehistoric people of different dimensions. None of the archaeologists we asked confirmed this theory, but this did not deprive it of its appeal. Chapels hidden inside caves Driving from Kazarma towards Spetses, one has the opportunity to experience several typical views of Greek terrain: mountains and valleys, olive groves and orange trees, herds of sheep in total offence of traffic rules, local farmers selling their produce by the road. The village of Trahia is famous for its dairy products and village-type bread, so you might consider making a quick stop at one of the shops along the road. Sleepy Didima village is a small detour absolutely worth the extra kilometers. Right outside the village, two huge holes at the foot of a rocky hill will make you wonder if it was struck by a meteorite. Inside one of these holes, hidden below the pine trees, you will discover two white chapels built into the rock. Walk down the whitewashed steps that seemingly lead to nowhere and you will find yourself inside the cavity. On your right, stands the chapel of Saint George. The path on your left, leads to the miniature chapel of the Metamorphoses. If you happen to visit Didima in springtime, look for the wild tulips that grow exclusively in this area of Greece. Epidaurus’ body and mind healing properties 36 km east of Nafplio The ancient theatre of Epidaurus is worth visiting either as an archaeological site or as a modern-day venue. Apart from the theater, renowned for its impeccable acoustics, it is also worth looking for the nearby sanctuary of the god-physician Asklepios, in an area once devoted to healing deities. For an entirely different experience of Epidaurus, visit the theatre during Athens’ Summer Festival, when the country’s top theatre groups perform plays of ancient Greek tragedy and comedy. Sites to visit www.nafplio-tour.gr/ www.greekfestival.gr/en/program www.semeliwines.gr/

Another Nafplio landmark, accessible by boat, is the Venetian castle of Bourtzi, right in the city’s harbor.

Herds of sheep near the village of Trahia, famous for its dairy products and bread. The archaeological site of Mycenae. Inside Semeli winery’s cellars. Nafplio’s neoclassical architecture. The ancient stadium at Epidaurus. Kazarma, Europe’s oldest bridge.

carnet de voyage

Taking & giving

Nikos Aliagas’ photos of Greek scenery are offered as postcards to support a good cause. By Paris Kormaris

Nikos Aliagas

addresses

always carries a camera with him. In fact, photography is one of his greatest passions. “This was my way of seeing life through another point of view. At some point, I started using my iPhone to take portraits of the people I met through my work and then I decided to practise with a digital camera”, says Aliagas, the French born son of Greek parents, who lives in Paris and has a successful career as journalist and television presenter in TF1. One has to go no further than his accounts in Flickr and Instagram to see that his photography skills qualify him as a pro. “It’s not that I take advantage of it commercially.

Apriati 3 Stadiou Str, Syntagma Square, 10563 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 3229183. 9 Pentelis Str & Mitropoleos Str, 10563 Athens, Greece Tel (+30) 210 3229020. 9 Pindarou Str, Kolonaki, 10673, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 3607878. 20 Matogianni Str, 84600 Mykonos Town, Greece. Cavo Tagoo Hotel, 84600 Mykonos, Greece. 12 Stavrou Niarchou Str, 18050 Spetses, Greece Tel. (+30) 22980 77080. 54 rue du Four, 75006 Paris, France Tel. (+33) (1) 42221542. Chopard Boutique 2 Stadiou Str., Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 3250555. Hotel Intercontinental, Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 9249823.

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I’m just sharing with people what I see”. This summer, he goes one step further, offering 20 of his photographs of Greece as postcards for a good cause: raising funds for Aspasia Leventis’ International Foundation for Greece (IFG), with the aim of purchasing ambulances for the National Emergency Centre of Greece (EKAB). Entitled “Colours of Greece”, this unique collection of 20 postcards has been released by the Hellenic Post (ELTA) in two illustrated folders, each containing 10 postcards and 10 self-adhesive stamps for posting them throughout the world. * www.elta.gr

Franck Muller Boutique 21 Voukourestiou Str, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 3628003. Enoplon Dynameon Str, Tria Pigadia, 84600 Mykonos, Greece Tel. (+30) 22890 22 922. Marco Bicego www.marcobicego.com Tel. (+30) 210 3310601. Mcm Boutique 2 Xanthou Str & Anagnostopoulou Str, Kolonaki, Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 7225910 Email: store.athens@mcmworldwide.com Paolita www.paolita.co.uk Puma 86-88 Kifisou Avenue, 12132 Peristeri Tel. (+30) 210 5758450. Attica Citylink Tel. (+30) 211 180 2600. 138 Grigoriou Labraki Str, Piraeus. Sebago Attica Citylink Tel. (+30) 211 1802789.

Attica Golden Hall Tel. (+30) 211 1814341. www.sebago.gr Wolford Boutique 20 Kanari Str, 10674 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210 3632353. 1 Kolokotroni Str, Shopping Land, 14562 Kifissia, Greece, Tel. (+30) 8016340. 37A Kifisias Avenue, Golden Hall, 1st floor, 15123 Marousi, Greece, Tel. (+30) 210 6855218. Zerteo 24-26 Metaxa Str, 1st floor, Glyfada, Tel. (+30) 210 8946682. 1 Kolokotroni Str, 1st floor, Kifissia, Tel. (+30) 210 6234424. London: Merola Boutique: 195 Fulham Road SW3 6JL, Tel. + 44(0) 2073519338, Von Peterson Designs, 194-196 Walton Street SW3 2JL, Tel. + 44(0) 2075841101.

Tel : 210 9249824 Athenaeum Intercontinental Hotel - Kifisia, Kolokotroni 8 - Westin, Astir Palace Beach Resort Vouliagmeni - Mykonos Info@kassis.net - www.kassis.net 000 Spetses Spotlight