DOUGLAS MERRIAM
Swiss Precision
Nothing evokes Swiss cuisine better than a croque monsieur, plump with Black Forest ham and topped with creamy béchamel and bubbling Gruyère. Add a fried egg for the feminine version, croque madame—one of the many edible wonders on offer at the new Swiss Bakery Pastries & Bistro in the Guadalupe District. Chef and owner Philippe Muller knows his stuff—he hails from Switzerland (a culinary capital that makes the French nervous), although he’s called Santa Fe home since 1980. With the Swiss Bakery, Muller has transformed what was a dark and shadowy bar into a bright and airy café, creating an atmosphere that’s perfect for enjoying his creations. Whether you order the French onion soup, salade niçoise, crepes, chicken vol-au-vent, or one of the house-made baked goodies, you’ll be transported to Muller’s homeland. At breakfast there is even a nod to our local fare: a green-chile ham-and-Swiss croissant. Yodel-ay-ee-yum! —John Vollertsen Swiss Bakery Pasteries & Bistro, 401 S Guadalupe, 505-988-1111, Monday–Saturday 7 am–4 pm
april/may 2012
santa fean
107