Spotlight: Gateway to Machu Picchu

By Karen Leiva

Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, is a small, bustling city – only half a million people live in what was once the capital city of the Inca Empire; but these days, some two million visitors come from around the world every year en route to Machu Picchu. From Cusco, travellers make their way to the start of the famed four-day Inca Trail hike or go all the way to Machu Picchu by train and bus. But Cusco isn’t just a stopover – it’s worth spending a few days to explore.

CUSCO’S CITY CENTRE

Cusco, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, tells the story of the historic Spanish conquest over the Incas – and efforts to create a modern city that preserves Inca traditions. The Plaza de Armas, constructed by the Incan Empire, was taken over by Spanish colonial buildings in the 1500s and what remains

is a combination of those two architectural styles. Nearby trendy restaurants, like Uchu, where alpaca and beef steaks are served sizzling on volcanic hot plates, are tucked into narrow cobblestone alleys once carved out by the Incas. Inside the Catholic cathedral, you’ll find hints of Incan homage to nature. It’s worth visiting the Plaza de Armas at night, if only to sit on the steps and take in the city’s nightlife.

BEYOND THE CITY

Just a 15-minute drive outside of the city, take a guided tour through the Saqsaywaman ruins. With temples dedicated to earth and nature, it is believed that Saqsaywaman was one of the Inca’s most important religious sites where rituals were performed in honour of the Sun God and Mother Earth.

If you are fortunate to visit in June, don’t miss the Festival of the Sun which sees a procession in traditional Incan dress descend on the ruins for an elaborate ceremony. Beyond the ruins, there are picture-perfect views of Cusco’s red tile-roof homes and llamas grazing in fields. Also, check out the nearby planetarium at night for a look at the stars and to learn how the Inca used the constellations to guide their agricultural production.

SACRED VALLEY SITES

The journey to Machu Picchu takes you through the picturesque Sacred Valley. The road winds through the majestic Andes, where industrious farmers have carved out agriculture terraces on mountain slopes. A likely stop is a look-out point to see the Urubamba River from high in the mountains. Further on is Chinchero, where travellers can learn more about the ancient art of weaving.

The Ccaccaccollo Women’s Weaving Collective is another weaving co-op where women from nearby villages give demonstrations and sell their handicrafts.

The last stop before arriving to Machu Picchu is Aguas Calientes, a town that was constructed along the banks of the Urubamba River to support massive numbers of tourists heading to and from Machu Picchu. Make-shift spas are popular here, offering trekkers a chance to recover from (or get ready for) their hike. Try the “Inca Massage” at the Vida Spa, but when the masseuse asks you how strong you want the pressure, remember the women doing the massages are the descendants of a powerful people.