Cosmetiscope April 2024

Restore Hair and Scalp Equilibrium for Holistic Beauty!

…Mythili Nori

For years, hair care products have been focused on addressing damage by providing solutions to repair damage, prevent damage, and maintain hair health W ith increased awareness, consumers now recognize that healthy scalp is also a fundamental foundation for healthy hair. Holistic care means to restore the hair at its core while maintaining a healthy scalp. W ith personalization and self-care at the forefront, consumers are looking for solutions that are inspired from skin care with an emphasis on natural and clean ingredients. In this article, we will discuss factors that affect scalp and hair health and provide an overview of the innovative technologies including specialized product treatments that help restore hair and scalp equilibrium

Stressors That Impact Hair and Scalp Equilibrium

Hair and scalp health are affected by several factors such as UV exposure, p o l l u t i o n , h u m i d i t y, m e c h a n i c a l m a n i p u l a t i o n ( e g , g ro o m i n g ) , c h e m i c a l treatments, physical stressors, and occlusion such as hats and head protectors (e g , wigs, protective styles, etc ) 1 Sebum on the scalp diffuses along the hair shaft and can attract product build-up and dust from air which can affect the scalp’s overall health. Additionally, the bacterial and yeast proliferation on the scalp is commonly associated with enhanced desquamation, itching, scratching, and redness.1 Some hair products may leave deposits on the scalp, while others can strip hair’s natural oils to the point that it begins to overproduce sebum 2

Oxidative stress (i.e., free radicals from sources like UV and pollution) can weaken scalp skin health and cause aging 3 Sensitive scalp syndrome has been reported to arise from increasing levels of air pollution. Symptoms of sensitive scalp include itching, prickling in the scalp, dandruff, oily scalp, and pain in the hair roots Pollutants also can migrate into the der mis and through the hair follicle, leading to oxidative stress and hair fall 3 Hormonal changes, medical conditions, heredity, and aging are cited as common causes of hair fall, but there have been a lot of searches for hair loss since the beginning of the COVID-19 panademic (+250%), and how to stop hair fall post-COVID increased by a whopping 1,250% 4

The skin surface and follicular openings are recognized sites of rich microbial colonization and intense immune citation, with crosstalk across the skin barrier 5 A disrupted microbiome may cause infections and inflammation to the scalp 6 This disruption may aggravate scalp disorders that can lead to acne, eczema, alopecia, scalp psoriasis, seborrheic der matitis/dandruff, etc The aforementioned diseases of the skin and the hair follicles are all due to the dysfunction of dysbiosis the imbalance of the skin microbiome 5 Scalp conditions also impact the quality of hair causing the resultant cuticular cells to be less flexible than nor mal, which may impair both anchorage and subsequent fiber surface integrity due to an oxidative stress environment Hair cuticle cells become more brittle and chip off This results in a rougher cuticle that is also less functionally effective 7 Cleansing of hair and scalp is also vital. How often you should cleanse your hair is

EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair

Amber Evans chair@nyscc.org

Chair-Elect

John Carola chair-elect@nyscc org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc org

Treasurer-Elect

Diane Dabkowski treasurer-elect@nyscc org

Secretary

Mythili Nori secretary@nyscc org

Advisor

Stacey House advisor@nyscc.org

Program

Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org

At Home Live Series

Susanna Fer nandes

Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k com

By-Laws and Membership

Cathy Piterski

cpiterski@essentialingredients com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

House Chair

Afam Okoro house@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Letter from the Chair …Amber Evans

Bonjour! I am writing this letter in anticipation of when we will be in Paris to host our 3rd Annual Press and Friends event that will gather dozens of our partners from around the globe who assist in making Suppliers’ Day and NYSCC programs a success! As a precursor to our own global event scheduled for May 1-2, 2024, at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center, we are excited to report that NYSCC Suppliers’ Day is sold out and that registration is tracking ahead We are expecting another recordbreaking expo

We continue to host incredibly thought-provoking technical programs that have cumulatively attracted hundreds of attendees since the start of 2024 The March 26th “Beauty from W ithin” program at the Pleasantdale Château and Conference Estate showcased a new topic for the NYSCC and was jam-packed with 10 presentations on “Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies ” The program covered everything from nutricosmetics, supplements, holistic wellness, skin care, and more. Many thanks to Michael Anthonavage for organizing this extraordinary program We attracted 153 attendees and showcased 12 diverse presenters while being supported by three sponsors: Seppic, Sytheon, and Vitaquest.

Before Paris, our next program will take place on Thursday, April 11th and promises to be unique, as it will include an experiential component as “NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day.” Taking place in Asbury Park, the educational program will be hosted at Stella Marina Restaurant and, as a group, we will also help clean up the Jersey Shore during an impactful service activity The program “Har nessing the Power of Science and Intentionality for a Sustainable Future” will discuss the effect of climate change and pollution on the environment and the consequences for our industry as well as opportunities! Organized by Giorgio Dell’Acqua, the program speakers include academic and corporate sustainability experts.

It's amazing to realize that the first quarter of 2024 is behind us and that our next Cosmeticscope issue in May will focus on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. W ith its theme of “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate ” , the event is poised to offer the most innovative solutions currently available across the globe and will feature more than 100 hours of educational programming, nearly 560 exhibitors and 10,000+ attendees/buyers/industry experts representing 70 countries Specialty areas on the show floor include the Future Chemists Workshop, Innovations Theater, Inspiration Zone, INDIE 360° Pavilion, Technical Posters Showcase, and Headshot Studio that will entice attendees to tell us what inspires them, as well an inspirational retrospective of the cosmetic industry at our show charging station as the NYSCC Celebrates its 70th anniversary!

At Suppliers’ Day, NYSCC will once again be hosting several middle school female students participating in JerseySTEM’s chemistry outreach program They will get a first-hand view and immersive experience of the exciting world of cosmetic science and be inspired by leading women in the industry

If you haven’t registered to attend, I encourage you to do so today. And be sure to join us at our annual Awards Night celebration at Lavan Midtown! W ith its Met-gala theme, this celebration is beauty’s biggest night out and the only place to be on May 1st. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day is proud to sponsor the CEW Beauty Awards – Ingredients and For mulations category There were a record number of submissions, and we can’t wait to hear who our esteemed panel of judges has selected as the 8 finalists! The announcement will take place at Awards Night, so be sure to reserve your place now! Review all that is happening on the Suppliers’ Day website and know, without a doubt, that this is the must-attend North American expo!

I hope to see you at our upcoming April events, and of course at Suppliers’ Day! As you can see, our offerings as a chapter continue to expand, the networking is unmatched, and the ability to influence the trajectory of your career (and others) is real. Get involved! I’d love to hear from you! Send correspondence to chair@nyscc.org

See you soon!

Amber Evans

SUPPLIERS’

Early Bird Registration Open for the Beauty Event of the Year!

Register now for the biggest ingredients and for mulation beauty and personal care event in North America and save with early bird registration that is in effect until April 15, 2024 Don’t miss the more than 100 hours of scientific and marketing educational programming exploring nutricosmetics, hair care, microbiome, fragrance, and the future of the cosmetic industry among other relevant and fresh topics. Be ready to be inspired by all the innovations on display from more than 550 global exhibitors and celebrate all that we create Register now at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day SCC members receive an additional discount on educational programming in the classrooms.

2024 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC information: www.scconline.org

April 11

May 1-2

May 1

June 3

July 15

August 10

September 10

September 18

October 15

November 1

November 16

November TBD

December 11-13

NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day

Stella Marina Restaurant, Asbury Park, NJ

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day

Jacob K Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

NYSCC Awards Night: “The Future of Beauty”

LAVAN Midtown, New York, NY

Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions and Future Directions for Innovation

Charthouse, Weehawken, NJ

NYSCC Golf Outing

Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ

NYSCC Fishing Trip and Seafood Boil

Atlantic Highlands, NJ

Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin

Fairleigh Dickinson University, Florham Campus, Madison, NJ

NYSCC Culinary Event

Midtown Loft, New York, NY

Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty Location TBD

Pet Care and Grooming Virtual Event

70th Anniversary Gala and NYSCC Supports Education Night

The Plaza, New York, NY

Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s

Top Ingredients and Formulations

Virtual Event

SCC Scientific Meeting & Showcase

Los Angeles, CA

Restore Hair and Scalp Equilibrium for Holistic Beauty!

determined based on your overall scalp health and can be attributed to hair texture

Some cleansers can be harsh and overly stripping, removing all natural oils, which disturbs the bacterial environment and can lead to irritation, redness, and flaking, while others may have a high oil load that can have a detrimental effect on oily scalp 8

As scalp and hair go hand in hand, there is also tremendous focus on the damage hair sustains from the environment, washing, bleaching, coloring, and the use of different styling regimens. Hair damage affects all types of cross-linking structures, including disulfide bonds, and can negatively affect the overall structure and ordering of free and cell membrane complex lipids 9 Bleaching and coloring leads to dry, brittle-feeling hair and fiber breakage Repeated washing results in lifted cuticles, while heat damage from drying, straightening, or curling leads to a loss of moisture, frizzy hair, and split ends.10

Market Drivers and Trends

(continued from Page 1)

Over the past five years, scalp-focused inter net searches have increased by 270%, which is tied to the fact that one in two people suffer from a scalp issue 11 Reportlinker projects the global hair and scalp care market will reach $121 4 billion by 2027 and will grow at an estimated 6 5% compound annual growth rate over the next five years 12 Based on the latest data, Spate recommends that brands offer hair and scalp solutions that support skin barrier repair, moisturization, and conditioning of damaged locks.12 There has also been a rise in complex hair and scalp routines among millennials 4 The need for different scalp products has increased globally, which aligns with consumers ’ desire for benefits that address their individual scalp and hair needs Consumers also demand transparency from brands and want to lear n more about the ingredients used in their products and their mechanism of action They also place a growing emphasis on the use of natural, organic, and clean alter native ingredients.

Advances in Technology Targeting Hair and Scalp Concer ns

There have been many advancements in technology that provide holistic solutions to help protect, prevent, and restore hair and scalp equilibrium.

Sebum Control

One ingredient promoted for sebum control leverages a novel encapsulation technology and ensures targeted delivery and controlled release of actives onto the scalp and hair to deliver instant sebum reduction 12 This technology is based on multiple ingredients, with the INCI name: aqua (and) cetyl palmitate (and) Cucurbita pepo seed extract (and) disodium EDTA (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) Helianthus annuus seed oil (and) lauryl glucoside (and) Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil (and) phenoxyethanol (and) Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract (and) sorbitan stearate (and) tocopheryl acetate Overall, this technology allows consumers to leave more time between washes, leading to water conservation.

A naturally occurring amino acid [INCI: glycerin (and) water (and) sarcosine] effectively aids in the reduction of an oily scalp It helps to reduce flakes on the scalp and assists in rebalancing the microbiome Additionally, this ingredient also helps fight against stress, pollution, and product build-up.2 Another ingredient, based on a lamellar body-inspired delivery system [INCI: aqua (and) lecithin (and) niacinamide (and) lysolecithin (and) phenethyl alcohol (and) caprylhydroxamic acid (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phytic acid], has been designed to target hair follicles where it delivers actives to regulate sebum and the microbiome 6

Oxidative Stress

The advantages of using antioxidants for hair and scalp care are very well known and can be added to any kind of hair product due to the wide range of water and oil soluble derivatives They help to prevent oxidative stress and provide a wide range of benefits to both hair and scalp. One system promoted for hair and scalp hair is based on a blend of three natural and powerful antioxidants including an extract of a medicinal plant that for ms a non-occlusive shield against urban pollution and protects hair and scalp against environmental stress

13 Another example is a fermented extract of organically grown yerba mate leaves [INCI: water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and) Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract] designed to

help protect hair from oxidative stress-induced damage and help maintain healthy hair roots for optimal growth after only one shampoo treatment 12 Brands like Keep It Anchored (P&G) are developing for mulas that are powered by a combination of antioxidant salts that relieve oxidative stress, a zinc compound to improve scalp condition, and B vitamins known for skin barrier health.8

Dandr uff

W ith the ban of zinc pyrithiones in Europe, for mulators are now scouting for new active ingredients for cosmetic applications. A biomarine ingredient derived by biotechnology [INCI: water (aqua) (and) Pseudoalteromonas fer ment extract (and) sodium salicylate] has been shown to reduce sebum, itchiness, and flakes on the scalp, while also preventing their recurrence in both rinse-off and leave-on applications 4

An algae oil (INCI: triolein), which contains high levels of omega-9 fatty acids, was reported to help hydrate, rejuvenate, and repair the scalp It was also claimed to nourish hair follicles and protect against hair fiber lipid degradation upon UV exposure. In addition, another ingredient positioned as an emollient with antimicrobial properties (INCI: decylene glycol), helps protect the skin from scalp to toe Among other functions, this ingredient supports dandruff control concepts. It also provides a China-compliant alter native to the antidandruff active zinc pyrithione 12

Hair Loss

Broccoli and pumpkin seed seem like unexpected choices for for mulators developing anti-hair loss products. Sulforaphane, which is an isothiocyanate isolated from broccoli, was found to increase the expression of an enzyme in the liver that accelerated dihydrotestosterone degradation and consequently inhibited hair loss, as shown in an animal model 14 Clinical efficacy of pumpkin seed oil versus 5% minoxidil foam in subjects with female patter n hair loss after three months of treatment showed the pumpkin oil significantly decreased hair shaft diversity and the number of vellus hairs with results comparable to the minoxidil foam

Another ingredient, a protein and peptide combination [INCI: keratin (and) hydrolyzed keratin (and) oxidized keratin (and) water] stimulates skin cells to proliferate by up to 160% faster than a placebo while simultaneously stimulating human keratinocyte migration and the expression of collagen IV and VII, thus improving the anchoring of follicles The ingredient’s anti-inflammatory agent reduced the prostaglandin E2 response in cells undergoing inflammatory stress by up to 70%, reducing scalp inflammation, itching, and premature hair follicle death.15

Balancing the Biome

The inhibition of the growth of har mful bacteria can lead to a better balance in oil secretion This has been reported to be achieved using a unique probiotic fer mentation technology rich in amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, and other biologically active substances 16 A natural prebiotic (INCI: inulin), which can also help rebalance the skin’s microbiota, was reported to provide skin hydration that outperfor ms hyaluronic acid.6 The prebiotic is based on inulin extracted from chicory root and agave and works by selectively supporting protective organisms to help restore the microbiota layer

Since 2020, we have witnessed a burgeoning of scalp products with cannabidiol boasting microbiome benefits and recently we also have seen the use of cannabigerol, which is reported to help rebalance the scalp microbiome and promote hair growth.5 Lastly, an ingredient (INCI: Lactobacillus fer ment lysate) that utilizes the properties of prebiotic oligosaccharides as an approach to postbiotic bacteriocin procurement can deliver scalp moisturization and redness reduction 4

Protecting Hair Beyond the Scalp

As hair emerges from the scalp surface, it experiences damage from consumer grooming practices and external stimuli Cleansing, conditioning, and strengthening solutions have been extensively discussed in the past. Currently, the use of bond builders is trending and growing in hair care. They are promoted as being able to penetrate the hair fiber to improve or restore the inter nal structure, giving rise to an improvement in mechanical properties.9 According to this definition, bond builders include a broad range of actives, including organic acids, proteins, and lipids Brands are employing (continued on Page 8)

Restore Hair and Scalp Equilibrium for Holistic Beauty!

(continued from Page 7)

patented peptide technologies and amino acid complexes in multiple product for mats that can help prevent and protect hair from the inside-out against all for ms of damage.

What Is New and What Is Next?

Ingestible hair care products, such as those provided by Nutrafol, are gaining popularity for promoting hair and scalp health which has helped fuel further ingredient innovation The introduction of keranat in food supplements for hair (soft gels, capsules, beauty drinks/shots, and cosmetics) is said to offer a natural, vegan solution to effectively fight against hair loss while restoring beauty and brightness 12 The design of neurocosmetic ingredients that modulate a neuronal response to improve scalp care and hair quality could be a promising approach for the development of new hair and scalp care routines.17

Finally, brands like L’Oréal are fostering partnerships with health technology companies to better understand the biological, clinical, and environmental factors that contribute to skin and hair health over time This comprehensive understanding contributes to the development of a more precise and inclusive skincare approach that cater to the diverse needs of individuals worldwide 18

Concluding Remarks

The beauty and personal care industry has made great advancements in understanding the role of the microbiome and its impact on scalp and hair health. New research and findings are helping to steer brands and ingredient suppliers to develop natural, organic, and sustainable solutions that will be a key focus area for future innovation Further more, ingredients inspired by skin care, traditional ingredients, and biotechnology will continue to drive the growth of the hair and scalp care category. It is imperative that brands continue their efforts in developing inclusive and personalized solutions to address consumer specific scalp and hair care needs. Finally, educating consumers on choosing the right products and regimen that address their specific needs is crucial, in addition to providing guidance on how to use the products effectively to achieve the desired benefit

References

1 L Rigano; Hair and scalp care go hand-in-hand; GCI Mag ; June 18, 2016

2 BASF Corporation; Rebalance the scalp microbiome with Scalposine; Cosmet Toil ; March 17, 2020; https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas-products/hair-care/article/ 21835718/basf-rebalance-the-scalp-microbiome-with-scalposine; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

3. D. Roddick-Lanzilotta, R. Kelly, and P. Sapsford; Keratin blend anchors follicles and prevents pollution-induced hair fall; Cosmet Toil ; September 25, 2019;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/literature-data/article/21835607/keratinblend-anchors-follicles-and-prevents-pollutioninduced-hair-fall; Accessed on April 2, 2024

4. A. Cannady, J. Gomiero, and S. Neplaz; Expert opinions: hair and scalp cleansing and care; Cosmet Toil ; June 1, 2022;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/magazine/article/22249942/cosmetics-toiletriesmagazine-expert-opinions-hair-and-scalp-cleansing-and-care; Accessed on April 2, 2024

5 S Surin-Lord; The ‘skinification’ of hair care; Happi; June 1, 2021;

https://www.happi.com/issues/2021-06-01/view hairs-the-thing/the-skinification-of-haircare/; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

6. L. Lam-Phaure; For mulating on trend: skinification of hair; Cosmet. Toil.; June 24, 2022;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas-products/formulating-basics/article/ 22288816/cosmetics-toiletries-magazine-formulating-on-trend-skinification-of-hair; Accessed on April 2, 2024

7. Effect of scalp health on hair growth; MedEsthetics Mag.; December 13, 2021; https://www.medestheticsmag.com/research/skin-care/news/21940723/effect-of-scalphealth-on-hair-growth#:~:text=The%20authors%20concluded%20that%20a,a%20surround ing%20oxidative%20stress%20environment.; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

8. C. Esposito; Natural ingredients in shampoos and conditioners benefit scalp and hair; Happi; December 1, 2021; https://www.happi.com/issues/2021-12-01/view features/naturalingredients-in-shampoos-conditioners-benefit-scalp-hair/; Accessed on April 2, 2024

9 P Cor nwell and J Marsh; How bond builders ‘repair’ hair; Cosmet Toil ; February 27, 2023; https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas-products/haircare/article/22737591/how-bond-builders-repair-hair; Accessed on April 2, 2024

10 R Grabenhofer; Patent pick: binding agreement for hair repair; Cosmet Toil ; October 17, 2019; https://www cosmeticsandtoiletries com/research/literature-data/news/21842990/ patent-pick-binding-agreement-for-hair-repair; Accessed on April 2, 2024

11. J. Wray; Why applicators are the secret ingredients for scalp care; Cosmetic Business; April 17, 2023; https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/why-applicators-are-the-secret-ingredient-for-scalpcare-208279; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

12 L Doyle; Hair and scalp care: targeted and premiumized; GCI Mag ; August 31, 2022; https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/hair-care/article/22418997/hair-scalp-caretargeted-and-premiumized; Accessed on April 2, 2024

13 R Ag; Radicare®-Eco: the urban antidote for hair and scalp; Cosmet Toil ; April 29, 2022; https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/actives/article/22197675/ rahn-ag-radicareeco-the-urban-antidote-for-hair-and-scalp; Accessed on April 2, 2024

14. M. Elsaie, L. Reuveni, S. Neplaz, and S. Massard; Expert opinions: restoring and reviving hair; Cosmet Toil ; January 31, 2022; https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/magazine/article/ 22030724/expert-opinions-restoring-and-reviving-hair; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

15. M. Behrens; FK Scalp from Keraplast prevents hair and scalp health pollution; GCI Mag.; February 10, 2020;

https://www.gcimagazine.com/ingredients/regulatory/news/21859689/fk-scalp-fromkeraplast-prevents-hair-and-scalp-health-pollution; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

16. P. Smedley; Bloomage highlights hair shield, scalp care, and fer mented anti-aging at SCC76; Cosmet Toil ; December 21, 2022;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmeticingredients/actives/article/22618193/bloomage-freda-biopharm-usa-inc-bloomage-highligh ts-hair-shield-scalp-care-and-fermented-antiaging-at-scc76; Accessed on April 2, 2024

17. M. Lopez-Gonzalez, N. García, and I. Devesa; Neuro-cosmetic targets for scalp and hair care; Cosmet Toil ; June 1, 2022;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/magazine/article/22249970/antalgenics-slneurocosmetic-targets-for-scalp-and-hair-care; Accessed on April 2, 2024

18 J Wray; L’Oréal embarks on world’s ‘largest and most diverse’ skin and hair study; Cosmetic Business; July 13, 2023; https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/l-or-al-embarks-on-world-s-largestand-most-diverse-skin-and-hair-study-210062; Accessed on April 2, 2024.

About the Author:

Mythili Nori has worked in the personal care industry for over a decade. Her expertise is in product claim substantiation and data science In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for Physical Claim Substantiation for Hair and Body Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent five years at TRI-Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair substrates. She ear ned a Bachelor’s of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received a Master’s of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture and Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water

TApril 11, 2024

• 4:00 – 8:30 p.m.

Stella Marina Restaurant Asbury Park, NJ

o celebrate Earth Day, please join us at Stella Marina Restaurant in Asbury Park, New Jersey on April 11th as we address the effect of pollution and climate change on the environment and the consequences for the personal care industry. We will also explore the legislation and policies framework surrounding these issues as well as future expectations In addition, we will investigate how changes in temperature, water and soil resources, and the chemistry of the air are affecting the plants that provide a multitude of ingredients for cosmetics ranging from aromas to soothing oils. Moreover, we will discuss how the entire supply chain is at increasing risk from more extremes in weather in ter ms of crop production, transportation, storage, and manufacturing of the final product.

Despite the challenges introduced by pollution and climate change, solutions and opportunities exist Our work should focus on assessing the supply chain, investing in suppliers, minimizing our impact on the climate, and considering alter native ingredients. In addition, the development of climate resilient crop plants and new production practices such as vertical and glasshouse far ming will be considered Finally, aligning products to meet the demands of a harsher environment will also be discussed.

Proudly sponsored by:

Event organizer: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (giorgio dellacqua@hotmail com)

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Agenda

4:00 – 5:10 p m Registration and Networking Reception

5:10 – 5:15 p m Welcome

5:15 – 6:00 p.m. Cleaning the Beach

6:00 – 6:50 p.m. Sustainability Tailwinds and Perfect Stor m: The Role of Nature, Technology, Policy, and Circularity in Transitioning Towards the Awesome Anthropocene. How Climate Change and Non-Sustainable Practices can influence the Cosmetic Industry

Simona Azzolini (Futerra)

6:50 – 7:30 p m

Dinner

7:30 – 8:20 p m Climate change and the cosmetic industry: Challenges and Opportunities for Supply Chain

Professor Michael Hoffmann, Ph.D. (Cor nell University)

8:20 – 8:25 p m

n Simona Azzolini

Closing Remarks

Speaker Biographies

Simona is the Sustainability Strategy Director at Futerra, a global agency focused on sustainable development She is also a judge for the Sustainability Award at CEW Simona is a fir m believer that businesses can be regenerative and have a positive impact on the world and society. Her job at Futerra is to create compelling and forward-looking sustainability strategies Simona’s past career in R&D and brand strategy represents a unique source of insights on how to embed sustainability within brands and organizations and drive authentic and tangible impact Moved by an inquisitive mind and the desire to accelerate change, she is always pushing the boundaries of what is possible and finding creative and innovative solutions that turns problems into opportunities At Futerra, she led several projects for globally recognized brands and companies such as For mula 1, Danone, Nestlé, Kao, L’ Oréal, Nivea, Loro Piana, and Ralph Lauren In her free time, you can find her spending time immersed in nature with her children or going to art exhibitions. She practices yoga and loves skiing and running.

n Michael Hoffmann

Professor Mike Hoffmann has dedicated his life to confronting the grand challenge of climate change by helping people understand and appreciate what is happening through the foods we all love and need. He has published climate change articles in the popular press The Hill, Fortune, Medium, The Messenger, and USA Today and is lead author of Our Changing Menu: Climate Change and the Foods We Love and Need (Cor nell Press 2021). He has also done a TEDx Talk on “Climate change: It’s time to raise our voices” and given >150 climate change related talks. Mike’s life experiences include growing up on a one-cow dairy far m and serving in the Marines during the Vietnam War He has held multiple leadership roles in Cor nell’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences including Executive Director of the Cor nell Institute for Climate Change Solutions He received his B S degree from University W isconsin, M S from University of Arizona, and Ph D from University of Califor nia, Davis He now holds the title of Professor Emeritus. He will tell the climate change story until he no longer can.

NYSCC History Project ...Steve Herman NYSCC History Project

A Good Day for History

Occasionally the NYSCC Chapter Historian gets lucky. Such a day was March 2, 2024, when Colleen Rocafort kindly e-mailed a treasure trove of NYSCC History Colleen was a very active member of the New York Chapter from 1981 to 2000, until work moved her away from us. Colleen and Amy Marshall co-chaired the NYSCC 45th Anniversary Celebration on November 4, 2000, and this event unearthed much archival material

In addition, some interviews were conducted at the time, and we have the responses of Dino Muccia, Henry Maso, and Joseph Pavlichko. Joe left us much too early, passing at 68 on March 28, 2019. His life was packed with SCC accomplishments including NYSCC Chapter Chair, President of the National SCC, and President of the IFSCC, all starting when he volunteered for the NYSCC in 1988. I have included two quotes from Joe’s interview that nicely reflect his feelings

Joe Pavlichko – Former NYSCC Chair, SCC President, and IFSCC President

Who were your mentors in the industry and the SCC and why? As I said before, Henry Maso was and I still consider him one of my mentors I lear n from him every time we meet to this day. There is not a single place in this industry, anywhere in the world, where I have heard a negative thing said about Henry I have been to every continent around the world in my position at Amerchol and inevitably someone always asks about him or has a story about where they first met and how he helped them in one way or another in their career. I am not sure if Henry knows this but, in my mind, he is and always will be the one person I have always admired as being the most professional, knowledgeable, and gentleman-like person in the

NYSCC 1992 – Standing from left to right: Irwin Palefsky, Colleen Rocafort, and Cheryl Zanone Seated from left to right: unknown, Kathy Potechin, and Charles Clum

industry. If one only achieves a small piece of what Henry has achieved during his career it would be a major accomplishment There are many other people that I have looked up to during my career Marty Smolin taught me how to be a true researcher and not just a “pair of hands” in the lab. Frank DeMonico showed me the importance of being a gentleman and honest is in this business and that you can be both “technical” and a “salesman” at the same time. I could go on and on…

Who were the great Chairs of the NYSCC chapter and why? I really do not want to single out any one Chair over the others as being the “best” since I feel there were so many good Chairs who served the chapter over the years However, if I had to mention one person it would have to be Dino Muccia and his Board who took the NYSCC out of a big financial hole by initiating Suppliers’ Day I really believe that without the start of Suppliers’ Day the chapter may have never rebounded from the financial position it was in before Dino was elected Chair.

Also in the early documents was an invitation to the Ladies Night on April 22, 1960 It shows an old NYSCC Chapter logo, with what appears to be the Venus de Milo with “SCC” across her legs Attendance was 260 and ladies received a chest of soap from Hewitt Soap Company

Henry Maso

Sunscreen Formulations:

Misconceptions and Future Direction for Innovation

June 3, 2024

8:00 a.m. –

6:00 p.m.

Chart House

Weehawken, NJ

The age of the Inter net has accelerated the spread of misinfor mation Further, it enables virtually anyone to become an author of inaccurate infor mation that can be transmitted to roughly 60% of the world’s population who have access to digital technology. False and misleading information has impacted every aspect of society including health care and the beauty industry Digital rumors and inaccurate data have caused numerous segments of society to become distrustful of science and scientific experts. The safety and efficacy of sunscreens is currently a hot topic that is subject to such misinfor mation, resulting in distrust of scientists responsible for ensuring the safety of skin care products. Social media assertions have ranged from claims that sunscreens are ineffective to allegations that they contain a cocktail of toxic ingredients which may cause more har m than benefit for the health of people In this symposium, we will address several controversial issues in the sun care space including concer ns about estrogens in sunscreen products as hor mone disruptors; the possibility that sunscreens penetrate skin at dangerous levels; and details surrounding environmental impacts of sunscreen use

Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (howard.epstein@emdgroup.com)

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)

NYSCC Celebrates!

In the spirit of this year ’ s theme of “Inspire Innovate Celebrate ” we are excited to launch “NYSCC Celebrates!”, a Cosmetiscope section that celebrates the accomplishments of NYSCC members The accomplishment could be something professional like a promotion or new degree, or something personal such as writing a book or winning/ placing in a major competition This serves as a platfor m for our talented and multifaceted NYSCC members to proudly shine

If you would like to be featured in an upcoming “NYSCC Celebrates!”, please send your special accomplishment to:

• Roger McMullen (roger mcmullen@fdu.edu) and

• Amber Evans (chair@nyscc.org)

We look forward to celebrating YOU!

NYSCC Employment Section

Are you looking for a candidate that loves the personal care industry, wh the thrill of designing a make-up product or shampoo? Or perhaps you are someone with expertise in raw materials. Maybe you need some help the lab and could use a tenacious inter n who wants to start their career in the personal care space.

The NYSCC Chapter supports you and your business with FREE postings to our webpage Contact employmentadmin@nyscc org to have passionate candidates apply to your roles Recent postings include companies such as Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Kenvue, Olaplex, and Symrise for roles in Sales, Marketing, For mulations, and Regulatory

Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are currently posted on the NYSCC website For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs

• Summer Inter n - Finance (US Mass) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Global Marketing (Elizabeth Arden, Skin Care) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Global Fragrance Marketing (Juicy Couture) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Sustainability – Revlon, New York, NY

• Technical Marketing Manager – Leading Edge Innovations, LLC , Branchburg, NJ

• Summer Inter n - Global Marketing (Elizabeth Arden, Fragrances) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Global Revlon Marketing (Eye) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Global Revlon Marketing (Color Cosmetics) – Revlon, New York, NY

• Summer Inter n - Digital Marketing – Revlon, New York, NY

• Associate Brand Manager (Strategy, Sun) – Edgewell Personal Care, Shelton, CT

• Senior For mulation Chemist/Lab Manager – Verla Inter national, New W indsor, NY