Cosmetiscope March 2024

SSilicone Alternative Solutions for Hair Care …Mythili Nori

ilicones have been widely used in the cosmetic industry for decades They are exceptionally versatile and impart multifaceted benefits across a wide range of beauty and personal care products. However, some of these materials are now limited by regulatory restrictions on their use. Due to an increasing focus on their toxicological and environmental impact, consumers are now gravitating towards natural, safe, and sustainable alter natives This article provides an overview on how silicones have shaped the hair care industry and the continuous research necessary to find innovative and environmentally friendly alternatives to silicones.

n Silicones in the Hair Care Industry

Silicones have been important ingredients in hair care products since the 1950s Silicones or silicone derivatives are widely used in shampoos, conditioners, colorants, and styling products where they act as either emollients, humectants, film for mers, antifoam agents, anti-static agents, or binding agents 1 These materials range from basic cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to polyether- and amino-based fluids and silicone resins 2 All silicones have a natural origin (silica), but synthetic processes are used to create the plethora of silicone ingredients used in cosmetics.3

Linear PDMS, also known as dimethicone, is available in a range of molecular weights and viscosities and is the most used silicone in hair care applications The PDMS variants provide excellent conditioning and perfor mance which increases with higher viscosity Use of dimethicone reduces combing forces, provides great sensory benefits like gliding, and adds suppleness to hair.

Phenyl trimethicone is also based on linear PDMS with the addition of phenyl groups 4 This combination results in a higher refractive index that effectively coats the hair enhancing its shine and leaving hair soft. PDMS polymers are also highly water resistant which makes them effective agents in reducing tackiness of the for mulations

Cyclic PDMS (cyclomethicone fluids) are characterized by ring structures typically containing three to six groups per ring 2 These fluids decrease combing forces of hair by reducing friction and surface energy.4 Due to their volatility and fast spreading properties, they provide transient gloss to hair, leaving hair weightless and without any build-up Cyclomethicones are more compatible with a wider range of ingredients compared to linear PDMS.

Silicone gum/fluid blends provide a high level of substantive conditioning and frizz control while imparting a soft and lubricious feel 4 There are silicones that are modified, like amodimethicones (amine-functionalized silicones) or alkylmethicones (replacing methyl groups on PDMS with alkyl chains), which are widely used in hair care applications as well Amodimethicones impart specific benefits such as color protection, heat protection, repair, reduced flyway, and deep conditioning

The above-mentioned silicones are not water soluble, whereas silicone polyethers are a family of water (continued on Page 6)

2024 NYSCC

EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair

Amber Evans chair@nyscc.org

Chair-Elect

John Carola chair-elect@nyscc org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc org

Treasurer-Elect

Diane Dabkowski treasurer-elect@nyscc org

Secretary

Mythili Nori secretary@nyscc org

Advisor Stacey House advisor@nyscc.org

Program

Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org

At Home Live Series

Susanna Fer nandes Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k com

By-Laws and Membership

Cathy Piterski cpiterski@essentialingredients com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

House Chair

Afam Okoro house@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Letter from the Chair

Hello March! As we eagerly anticipate the arrival of spring, let’s embrace the new beginnings and fresh opportunities it brings. Your continued support and enthusiasm fuel our mission to advance cosmetic science and that was quite evident at our first in-person event for this year. “The Next Generation of Hair Care,” was very well attended with more than 200 attendees lear ning about the many facets, opportunities, and challenges of innovating in the hair care space, as well as key topics of relevance such as beauty tech and hair graying

…Amber Evans

“Beauty from W ithin: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies,” will be our forward-thinking March program on the 26th at the Pleasantdale Château in West Orange A robust series of presentations will enlighten attendees on the symbiotic relationship between oral supplementation and topical treatments for optimal skin health Experts in this fastgrowing industry category will show you how to embrace the holistic path to glowing, vibrant skin that radiates health from the inside out.

Stay tuned for more infor mation on our novel educational program and community service activity that will celebrate Earth Day and takes place on April 11th in Asbury Park. Be sure to check the NYSCC events page to lear n about this and other upcoming programs on sunscreen formulation, pet care, and skin care inclusivity as well as our golf, fishing, and culinary activities. The full slate of education that will take place in conjunction with Suppliers’ Day will also be live You don’t want to miss the top-notch technical, marketing, and scientific expertise that will be presented

Speaking of Suppliers’ Day, this year ’ s 45th edition will be our largest trade show to date with a sold-out exhibit floor and 100+ hours of education that will inspire product development, ignite innovation, and celebrate all that our community creates! Visit www nyscc.org/suppliers-day to see all that is being offered at the scientific and beauty event of the year, May 1-2, 2024, at the Javits Center in NYC

Don’t miss the first evening of Suppliers’ Day. Our Awards Night party will be an unforgettable evening to celebrate “The Future of Beauty” and includes the unveiling of the finalists in the Supplier’s: Ingredients and For mulation Category of the coveted CEW Beauty Awards. Immerse yourself in a Met Gala-inspired event filled with experiential art, Afro-Latin culture, and moder n history perfor mances

Also, please be on the lookout for a recently sent member survey, which should have arrived in your e-mail inbox Your valuable insight and candid comments will help us serve you better and shape the future of our Chapter

In the meantime, know too, there are so many ways for you to be involved and realize the benefit of your SCC membership Don’t hesitate to reach out to me about opportunities that you may find of interest! I also hope to see many of you on March 26th at our “Beauty from W ithin” event.

Take Our NYSCC Membership Su

Help us help you! We need you shape the future of our Chapter. survey that will assess your experience as well as the association’s web accessibility to events, jobs, technical infor mation,and much more!

To show our appreciation for your responses, five members who complete the survey by March 26th will win a $50 Am card! Simply click this link below and you kept strictly confidential https://www surveymonkey com/r/3Y2NPJV

Thank you for your time and participation

SUPPLIERS’ DAY

JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER • NEW YORK CITY

Early Bird Registration Open for the Beauty Event of the Year!

Register now for the biggest ingredients and for mulation beauty and personal care event in North America and save with early bird registration that is in effect until April 15, 2024 Don’t miss the more than 100 hours of scientific and marketing educational programming exploring nutricosmetics, hair care, microbiome, fragrance, and the future of the cosmetic industry among other relevant and fresh topics Be ready to be inspired by all the innovations on display from more than 550 global exhibitors and celebrate all that we create.

Register now at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day SCC members receive an additional discount on educational programming in the classrooms.

2024 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC information: www.scconline.org

March 26 Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies

Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ

April 11 NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day

Stella Marina Restaurant, Asbury Park, NJ

May 1-2 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day

Jacob K Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

May 1 NYSCC Awards Night: “The Future of Beauty” LAVAN Midtown, New York, NY

June 3 Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions and Future Directions for Innovation Charthouse, Weehawken, NJ

July 15 NYSCC Golf Outing Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ

August 10 NYSCC Fishing Trip and Seafood Boil Atlantic Highlands, NJ

September 10 Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin

Location TBD

September 18 NYSCC Culinary Event Midtown Loft, New York, NY

October 15 Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty

Location TBD

November 1 Pet Care and Grooming Virtual Event

November 16 70th Anniversary Gala and NYSCC Supports Education Night The Plaza, New York, NY

November TBD Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s Top Ingredients and Formulations

Virtual Event

December 11-13 SCC Scientific Meeting & Showcase Los Angeles, CA

Silicone Alter native Solutions for Hair Care (continued from Page 1) and/or alcohol soluble materials commonly used in shampoo for mulations. They provide light to medium conditioning In addition to acting as emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers, they can be used as resin modifiers to aid curl retention.2

n Moving Away from Silicones

While silicones have been highly effective ingredients providing both functional and enha sensorial benefits, there is a movement away from use for a variety of reasons There are long-ter m eff of silicone such as causing build-up, greasiness, an scalp accumulation 5 Further more, concer ns have been raised about their toxicity and effects on the environment.

REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) assessed the potential environmental effect of cyclic silicones: octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasi (D5). Based on the evaluation, D4 meets the crite as a persistent, bio-accumulative, and toxic (PBT) s a very persistent, very bio-accumulative (vPvB) su the criteria for a vPvB substance 6 After Janu concentration of D4/D5 in rinse-off cosmetic prod market should be less than 0 1% by weight of either substance This has now been amended to include cyclohexasiloxane (D6) and is expected to be further restricted to include leave-on products.7

Linear silicones are also not completely in the clear They are suspected to be environmental toxins and bioaccumulative. Dimethicone, dimethicone copolymer, polysilicone-15, and other silicones are commonly considered to be microplastics 8,9 In addition to being non-biodegradable, silicone oils also have an impact on the environment due to their industrial production process which has a large carbon footprint.10

n High-Perfor mance, Natural, and Sustainable Solutions

According to Mintel’s Global New Product Database (GNPD), between 2016 and 2021 the incidence of “silicone-free” claims for hair care products increased by over 200%. W ith regulations to control the usage of silicones in hair care products and a growing emphasis on naturality and sustainability, companies are looking for ingredients that serve as silicone alternatives. There is a huge focus on developing efficient and innovative ingredients that offer similar or better functional perfor mance and with a better sensorial profile than silicones A few ingredient solutions currently offered are highlighted below

C13-C15 Alkane (plant-derived) is a sustainable natural silicone replacement developed via the fer mentation of renewable sugar and grown sustainably without irrigation This ingredient meets the perfor mance of dimethicone in frizz reduction and color protection. It also matches the perfor mance of amodimethicone in ter ms of wet/dry combability and provides an excellent sensorial profile Ethyl macadamiate is an ester, which is another silicone alter native It is biodegradable and provides the same silky, smooth afterfeel as cyclopentasiloxane.8 A highly viscous, hydrogenated polyfar nesene presents interesting properties to replace dimethiconol-based blends 11

A primary function of silicones is to act as emollients. A vegetable emollient that is readily biodegradable with a significantly reduced carbon footprint is a perfect ally to protect hair from repeated mechanical stress and perfor m superior to cyclopentasiloxane 10 An example is an unsaponifiable squalene from olive oil and hydrogenated castor oil It is yet another emollient offering to replace silicone and mineral oils that has application in anti-frizz haircare products 12

n Reduced Silicone Solutions

It is not necessary to exclude all silicone products. Cyclic-free or synthetic silicones that meet REACH requirements can still be used as alter native solutions Using low viscosity dimethicone and a mixture of C13-C14 isoparaffin can be considered as a replacement for cyclomethicones delivering a similar sensory

profile.7 Use of ter minal hydroxy amino-modified silicone chemistry provides long-lasting conditioning and protects hair against breakage 13 As for synthetic offerings, combining quaternary conditioning properties of cetrimonium chloride with a carboxylated silicone provides ther mal protection and enhances the manageability of hair, while a complex of cetrimonium chloride with a water-soluble silicone provides great hair care benefits in different for mats 7 A combination of natural oils and a synthetic polymer can enhance and extend the benefits of natural oils to smooth and restore damaged hair and protect and reduce hair damage from different grooming regimens.12

The industry also offers some unique solutions like quat-free polymeric conditioning additives that can p ro v i d e m u l t i - f u n c t i o n a l b e n e f i t s t o h a i r w h i c h a re i d e a l for amodimethicone-free for mulations Lastly, to reduce the carbon footprint, manufacturers are cutting down the high use of energy to produce dimethicones of various viscosities by using methanol obtained from biomass instead of fossil fuels.7

n Using Digital Tools to Source Ingredients

In the quest for clean and sustainable ingredients, artificial intelligence (AI) is playing a critical role in research and development Machine lear ning is a powerful tool that can collect large amounts of data and provide detailed infor mation about ingredient sourcing 11 AI will be further integrated to explore unmet needs and help screen and identify innovative ingredients for various applications. Companies are also developing apps, using QR codes to trace ingredients, and promote ingredient transparency by providing origin and sustainable properties 11

n Concluding Remarks

Over the last decade, there has been a strong shift in consumer product preferences with emphasis on personal wellbeing and the environment. The cosmetic industry has made great progress in offering many eco-friendly, clean, and sustainable solutions not only to replace silicones but also other ingredients that are currently being challenged. Companies are tasked to continue their efforts in developing ecofriendly and sustainable products that are highly effective in functional and sensorial performance to meet consumer needs

References

1 A Kostic, Silicones in cosmetics and their impact on the environment; Cos Active J ; 1, 34-39 (2021)

2 K Schaefer, Silicones in hair care: making innovative solutions possible; Cosmet & Toil ; November 3, 2008; accessed March 8, 2024.

3 M McIntyre, Do silicones deserve their bad rap; Beauty Independent; June 20, 2019; accessed March 8, 2024.

4. B. Johnson, K. Murphy, and F. Lin, How silicones shape the hair care industry: a review; Cosmet & Toil ; July 2, 2015; accessed March 8, 2024

5 How sulfate and silicone alter natives improve the hair care industry and benefit consumers, www.syensqo.com; accessed March 8, 2024

6 M Moddaresi, Regulation update: cyclosiloxanes in the EU; UL Prospector; February 9, 2018; www.ulprospector.com; accessed March 8, 2024.

7. Smooth closer: the latest in silicones and silicone alter natives, Cosmetics Business; September 3, 2019; www.cosmeticsbusiness.com; accessed March 8, 2024 (continued on Page 8)

Silicone Alter native Solutions for Hair Care

8 What silicones are in cosmetics; September 25, 2018; www.chemistscorner.com; accessed March 8, 2024.

9. Plastic: the hidden beauty ingredient; Plastic Soup Foundation; www.beatthemicrobead.org; accessed March 8, 2024

10 An alter nate to silicone for hair care, Personal Care Magazine; March 12, 2019; www.personalcaremagazine.com; accessed March 8, 2024

11 Emogreen™ HP 40: a sustainable alter native to viscous silicones; Cosmet & Toil ; June 20, 2022; Seppic; www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com; accessed March 8, 2024.

12 J Woodruff, Silicones and alter natives 2018; first published by Soap, Perfumery, and Cosmetics in 2018; www.creative-developments.co.uk; accessed March 8, 2024

13. N. Suthiwangcharoen, B. Prime, B. Johnson, and D. Carsten, Simple and sensorial: amino-modified silicone protects and revives hair; Cosmet & Toil , February 1, 2021; www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com; accessed March 8, 2024.

About the Author:

Mythili Nori has worked in the personal care industry for over a decade Her expertise is in product claim substantiation and data science. In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for Physical Claim Substantiation for Hair and Body Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent five years at TRI-Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair substrates She ear ned a Bachelor of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received a Master of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture and Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water.

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor

Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Technology Transfer

Starting in 2010, the NYSCC had technology transfer conferences four consecutive years. In addition to trying to connect university research with industry, the conferences featured illustrious scientists as keynote speakers.

• October 20, 2010, Woodbridge Hilton Woodbridge – Neil deGrasse Tyson

• November 9, 2011, Pleasantdale Château – Bill Nye the Science Guy

• November 7, 2012, Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel – Michio Kaku

• November 13, 2013, Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel – Jon Gertner

Among the keynote speakers, Jon Gertner is probably less known in celebrity sphere than the others, who have a much greater media presence He is the author of The Idea Factory: Bell Labs and the Great Age of American Innovation.

For the 2010 inaugural meeting, the suggested topics were Green Chemistry, Botanicals, Food and Agricultural Products, Optics, Colloid and Surface Chemistry, Nutraceuticals, Fer mentation, and Genetic Engineering. The mor ning lineup consisted of:

• Wes Blakeslee – Executive Director of the Office of Technology Transfer (Johns Hopkins University)

• Brian Kacedon – Partner (Finnegan, Henderson, Farabow, Garrett & Dunner, LLP)

• Dr. Johann Wiechers – Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science (JW Solutions)

• Vic Chavez – Technology Transfer Coordinator (USDA)

The after noon featured “Technology in Action” encompassing networking and a poster session as well as live presenters, including Prof Robert Lochhead, Eric Abrutyn, Prof. Randy W ickett, Prof. Kathryn Uhrich, and other researchers from Rutgers, Princeton, and Columbia Universities.

 Photograph from the 2010 Technology Transfer Conference – Chairs Art Georgalas

Neil deGrasse Tyson is a famed astrophysicist, author, Director of the Hayden Planetarium of the Museum of Natural History, and host of NOVA ScienceNOW

Perhaps his most famous public deed was his role in demoting Pluto from its status as a planet It appeared that many people, especially children, considered Pluto their favorite planet, so this ignited some passionate protests, which Tyson explored in his book The Pluto Files The NYSCC chapter purchased 250 copies to distribute to meeting attendees and Dr. Tyson was available to autograph them

The meeting was chaired by Steve Herman and Art Georgalas, who were both interviewed by Dr. Tyson at the end of the meeting The results were edited into the Star Talk radio show episode entitled “The Cosmic Chemistry of Cosmetics.” Hopefully this made cosmetic science known to a wider audience of scientifically minded people The interviews are provided in the links below:

• https://startalkmedia.com/show/the-cosmic-chemistry-of-cosmetics/

• https://startalkmedia.com/celebrating-national-chemistry-week-with-the-cosmic-chemistryof-cosmetics/

(left) and Steve Herman (right) with astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson

The late Dr Johann Wiechers (1959 – 2011)

Bridging the gap with oral supplementation and topical treatment, join us for a series of enlightening presentations that delves into the symbiotic relationship between oral supplementation and topical treatments for optimal skin health While skincare routines often focus on external remedies, the significance of nourishing our skin from within cannot be overstated. This session will explore the combined benefits of approaching skin care from both sides unveiling a comprehensive strategic approach to achieving radiant and resilient skin. We will unravel the intricate interplay between inter nal and exter nal factors influencing skin health, market dynamics, and positioning all while emphasizing the need for a holistic approach to achieve beauty nirvana Don't miss this opportunity to elevate your skincare knowledge and revolutionize your approach to skin wellness. Together, let's embrace the holistic path to glowing, vibrant skin that radiates health from the inside out

Proudly sponsored by:

Agenda

3:00 – 3:30 p m

3:30 – 3:40 p m

3:40 – 4:10 p m

Registration

Welcome/Introduction – Event Chair

Michael Anthonavage (Vitaquest Inter national)

Exploring the Synergy of Inter nal and Exter nal Beauty Care: Advancing Strategies in Nutricosmetics

Ameann DeJohn (Media Lab Science) and Paula Simpson (Nutribloom Consulting)

4:10 – 4:30 p.m. The Growth of Hair Supplements

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (Nutrafol)

4:30 – 4:50 p m

Symphony of Beauty: A Holistic Approach to In and Out Synergy

Julia Tisserand (Seppic) and Amey Desai (Seppic)

4:50 – 5:10 p m

Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies

Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph D (Skin Clinical Research Consultants)

5:10 – 5:30 p m

5:30 – 5:50 p m

Unlocking New Category Growth by Discovering Synergistic Benefits Between Dietary Supplements and Topical Creams

Gar net Pigden (Ascend Biotech)

Get Your Gut in the Game of Skin Beauty –The Science Behind Standardized Terminalia chebula Fruit Extract for Delivering Beauty from Inside-Out!

Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D. (Sytheon)

6:00 – 7:00 p m Dinner

7:00 – 7:20 p m

7:20 – 7:40 p m

7:40 – 8:00 p m

The challenges and Rewards for the Skin in Offering Probiotics Topically and Orally

James V. Gruber, Ph.D. (Vantage Specialties)

Lactoferrin Unveiled: Illuminating Beauty from Within for Radiant Skin and Holistic Wellness

Marieke Schoemaker, Ph.D. (Friesland Campina)

The Gut-Beauty Axis: Do Biotics, Gluten, and Enzymes Play a Role?

Sean M. Garvey, Ph.D. (BIO-CAT)

8:00 – 8:20 p.m. Sleeping Beauty: The Science Behind Sleep and Skin Health

Deshanie Rai, Ph.D. (OmniActive Health Technologies)

8:30 – 8:45 p m

Closing Remarks – Event Chair

Michael Anthonavage (Vitaquest Inter national)

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Exploring the Synergy of Internal and External Beauty Care: Advancing Strategies in Nutricosmetics

Ameann DeJohn (Media Lab Science) and Paula Simpson (Nutribloom Consulting)

Can ingestible skincare surpass the effectiveness of topical skincare? Ingestible beauty has emerged as a transfor mative trend However, does it stand alone as a comprehensive solution? Can it supersede the efficacy of topical skincare? Are brands and consumers exploring a combined inter nal and exter nal regimen for optimal results? Delve into the forefront of wellness focused aesthetics with NYSCC’s exploration of “Beauty from W ithin ” Join us as we unravel these questions, uncovering the dynamic interplay between inter nal and exter nal beauty routines. Together, we’ll navigate the implications of this integrated approach and examine methods for substantiating marketing claims to support this ground-breaking strategy

n Ameann DeJohn

Widely acknowledged skin care and cosmetics industry expert, author, speaker, and educator, Ameann DeJohn has helped create and launch 750 products (and counting!) for over 100 of the industry’s most well-known brands, from start-ups to established veterans An esthetician by training with over 30 years working in beauty, Ameann’s keen insight on product trends and business intuition has helped her guide multiple brands to long-term success Now, as the Co-Founder of Media Lab Science, she taps her deep understanding of product development, ingredients, business management, and marketing to propel Media Lab Science into the go-to clinical testing and content creation partner for brands to get validated, prove efficacy, and noticed in the overwhelmingly competitive beauty space.

Supplier

Tom

375

PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM

WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

CSR program

Naturally

n Paula Simpson

Paula Simpson is a holistic beauty expert who has integrated her expertise in biochemistry, clinical and functional nutrition, herbal medicine, and beauty to drive innovation within the medical, wellness, and personal care sectors For mally recognized as a leading innovator in natural beauty and integrative der matology, she has combined her scientific and holistic background to create some of the most successful nutricosmetic and beauty wellness brands available today Paula is a microbiome expert and author of Good Bacteria for Healthy Skin; Nurturing Your Skin Microbiome for Clear and Luminous Skin (Ulysses Press) Along with running a successful clinical practice, Paula is the Founder of Nutribloom Consulting, a fir m specializing in innovation, product development, marketing, and communications for the nutricosmetics and healthy aging markets

The Growth of Hair Supplements

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (Nutrafol)

The high prevalence of hair thinning conditions in 2023-2024 has led to increased demand for hair supplements, with the market size expected to reach USD 1 92 billion by 2030, expanding at 14.7% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) from 2023 to 2030. Increased stress and an aging population are driving the demand High quality raw materials, powerful standardized botanical extracts, and vitamins/minerals with enhanced stability and bioavailability are elevating the product offering A novel generation of hair beauty supplements containing botanical extracts and utilizing micro- and macronutrient profiles to promote healthy hair have been supported by scientific research and clinical studies highlighting their safety and efficacy. An alter native to drugs, naturally derived ingredients in capsule for m are predicted to register the fastest CAGR in the next ten years

n Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is currently the Chief Science Officer at Nutrafol, a company specialized in natural based supplements and topicals for healthy hair and scalp

After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20+ years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies He has helped bring 300+ successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored 90+ publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds two patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability Giorgio is a member of the executive board of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) as its 2024 Secretary He is also the chair of the NYSCC Outreach Committee and is a member of the NYSCC Scientific Committee

Symphony of Beauty: A Holistic Approach to In and Out Synergy

Julia Tisserand (Seppic) and Amey Desai (Seppic)

Embark on a beauty revolution with “In and Out” synergy! Imagine cosmetics and nutrition uniting and turbocharging consumers ’ skincare routine. Nutricosmetics completes topical applications for peak perfor mance, captivating seekers of authenticity It’s not just beauty; it’s a jour ney to a har monious, empowered body Dive into the fusion of worlds, uncover market trends, and explore the magic of In and Out solutions where innovation meets the future of beauty! Lear n more about skin hydration synergies as well as the management of sensitive skin with precision and care

n Julia Tisserand

Julia is the North America Operational Marketing Manager Beauty Care at Seppic, Inc After completing a Master’s degree in Chemistry (Ecole Supérieure de Chimie Organique et Minérale, France)

followed by a postgraduate degree in Cosmetology (Université du Québec, Canada), she joined Seppic SA in France in 2018 as Business Development Manager within the beauty care category for the French and Belgian markets During a five-year timeframe at Seppic, she was able to develop new businesses and nurture existing ones through her knowledge of the markets and technical expertise. Since September 2023, she has been supporting the Beauty Care sales team within the company ’ s American subsidiary, Seppic Inc , as Operational Marketing Manager

n Amey Desai

Amey is the North American Sales and Marketing Manager, Nutrition and Der mophar ma at Seppic, Inc. W ith a Master’s degree in Phar maceutical Sciences from Birla Institute of Technology and Science and an MBA in Leadership, Strategy, and Marketing from NMIMS Mumbai, he brings over 12 years of experience in the phar maceutical and dietary supplement industry. Beginning his career as a For mulation Scientist at Indoco Remedies and Cipla, he transitioned to become the Business Manager for Phar ma and Nutrition at Seppic. Amey’s passion lies in leveraging his technical background to assist research scientists in for mulating efficient products within the phar maceutical and dietary supplements sector

Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies

Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph.D. (Skin Clinical Research Consultants)

Ayouthful, glowing, and healthy appearance is a common desire of the ageing population “Beauty from within” involves using nutrition and nutraceuticals to support skin function for reducing and reversing signs of ageing such as wrinkles, pigmentary changes, skin laxity, and dullness. Products that address “beauty from within” provide endogenous support to reduce the effects and manifestations of aging. These products currently include antioxidants like polyphenols, phytonutrients, vitamin C, vitamin E, and sulphur containing molecules such as methylsulfonylmethane as well as structural components like hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronan, bioactive peptides, oligosaccharides, plant polyphenols, carotenoids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids

Supplementation with these products has shown evidence of changing the signs of chronological ageing (e.g., der mal wrinkles) as well as protecting skin from UV-induced ageing in several human trials. This presentation will report on studies conducted to deter mine the effect of two oral nutraceuticals on improvement of the signs of skin ageing. Methylsulfonylmethane and carotenoids have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities Thus, optimal supply of these supplements can increase der mal defense against ultraviolet irradiation and environmental pollutants, thereby contributing to better skin health and appearance expressed as “beauty from within.”

n Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph.D.

Dr. Muizzuddin operates a consulting company where she offers skin clinical re s e a rc

manuscripts for publication Neelam has worked in the cosmetic industry for over t h re e d e c

topical materials and is proficient in utilizing skin bioengineering instrumentation f o r s

patents, and peer-reviewed jour nal articles At present she is President of Skin Clinical Research Consultants LLC and Adjunct Professor at SUNY Stony Brook. She is a member of several skin measurement and der matology societies and actively participates in the administration of scientific conferences in her field. She is also an instrument rated pilot, artist, and pastry chef

Unlocking New Category Growth by Discovering Synergistic Benefits Between Dietary Supplements

and Topical Creams

Gar net Pigden (Ascend Biotech)

Many nutritional ingredients have proven skin health benefits in both topical and ingestible applications Nonetheless, few ingredients have been clinically tested to show synergistic benefits from topical and oral treatments This presentation reviews clinical tests for Lutein, Glutathione, and Astaxanthin where the combination of supplements and creams proved beneficial in improving skin lipids, hydration, elasticity, brightening, and UV protection If these ingredients have synergistic benefits, could not the same be true of other combinations? What is preventing the exploration and marketing of more topical and oral combination treatments?

n Gar net Pigden

Gar net Pigden currently is SVP of Global Marketing and Sales for Ascend Biotech, a Sino Lion Company, manufacturer of V itamin K2 Mk-7, L-Arginine, Glutathione, and Astaxanthin. He brings over 30 years of insights as SVP of Global Marketing at DSM and DuPont and President of Natrol, LLC and Kappa Bioscience In 2012 he launched his own beauty-from-within product: On-In Beauty® – a topical cream + supplement that is exclusively sold on Amazon.

The Challenges and Rewards for the Skin in Offering Probiotics Topically and Orally

James V. Gruber, Ph.D. (Vantage Specialties)

For topical delivery of probiotics to the skin, significant challenges exist The FDA requires that finished cosmetic products be offered in an unadulterated for m and this especially reflects on the microbial stability of for mulations, particularly ones that include water as a component, which must contain preservatives In Europe, where acne products are considered cosmetics, not drugs, there has been considerable scientific and commercial efforts to offer topical probiotics that have beneficial effects on troubled and acne-prone skin In the U S , where topical acne products are classified as OTC drugs, these novel probiotic treatments are not approved for acne claims, so cosmetic claims become more important

In this presentation, we will examine current commercial methods for delivering probiotics and new methods that involve blends of living probiotics for mulated into preservative-free, just-add-water powders The talk will explore some cosmetic benefits that topical and oral probiotics can provide to the skin, including the possible combinations of topical and oral probiotics influencing skin health synergistically

n James (V ince) Gruber, Ph.D.

Dr. James (V ince) Gruber is the Director of New Product Development at Vantage Specialties developing new ideas and technologies for the personal care, cosmetic, and therapeutic industries. He is also an Adjunct Professor at the University of Cincinnati’s School of Phar macy working with students in the Master’s in Cosmetics program Prior to joining Vantage Specialties, Dr Gruber held positions at Jeen, Botaneco, Sensient, Arch (Lonza), and Amerchol, leading technical teams that developed active and functional ingredients He is the author of 42 refereed articles including 22 referenced in PubMed and holds 13 granted U S Patents and additional published World Patent applications He has authored numerous edited articles and book chapters and is an author and co-editor of the book Principals of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care. He is a scientific review editor of

Get Your Gut in the Game of Skin Beauty –

The Science Behind Standardized Terminalia chebula Fruit Extract for Delivering Beauty from Inside-Out!

Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D. (Sytheon)

The influence of the gut microbiome on distant organs, such as skin, has created an area of gutskin axis research (Microorganisms, 9(2):353, 2021) Oral probiotics act directly on the gut microbiota and rapidly restore the homeostasis of the gut microbiome, which plays a vital role in the skin homeostasis We undertook a project to examine how a highly standardized Ter minalia chebula fruit extract supplementation modulates the gut microbiome and metabolic pathways and its effect on skin The fruit of Ter minalia chebula is known for its widespread use in traditional medicine and is a useful source of therapeutic agents to treat diverse health conditions

Two double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled studies were conducted with Ter minalia chebula fruit extract (250 g capsules twice daily) on females for 8 weeks The first study results showed increased diversity of the gut microbiome in the Ter minalia chebula fruit extract group at week 8 versus placebo (p<0 05) along with an increase in beneficial gut bacteria (e g , Akker mansia muciniphila), phages, circulating short-chain fatty acids (known epigenetic regulators), and bile acids (effectors of the gut microbiome). The second study results demonstrated that short-chain fatty acid supplementation significantly reduces facial sebum, improves the appearance of wrinkles, and reduces cheek erythema Overall, our findings suggest that oral supplementation using standardized Terminalia chebula fruit extract with highly enriched hydrolyzable tannins has beneficial properties for the skin which may be due to improved gut health

n Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D.

Dr Chaudhuri is President and CEO of Sytheon, a global specialty ingredient company (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon is an innovative research-based company committed to developing high-perfor mance active ingredients for the personal care industry Dr Chaudhuri is a prolific innovator and industry veteran with over 30 years of experience. He holds over 100 U.S. and inter national patents and has over 100 publications, which include original articles, reviews, columns, and book chapters. Ratan has been named as one of the top 10 inspiring business leaders by Inc Magazine to watch in 2022 and included into the prestigious Marquis Who’s Who biographical registry (2023-2024)

Lactoferrin Unveiled: Illuminating Beauty from Within for Radiant Skin and Holistic Wellness

Marieke Schoemaker, Ph.D. (Friesland Campina)

This presentation explores the transfor mative potential of Lactoferrin, focusing on its profound impact on skin health and overall well-being Beginning with an overview of its beauty benefits, we delve into the natural occurrence and mechanistic impact of Lactoferrin on various bodily functions Scientific insights reveal its role in maintaining skin integrity, combating oxidative stress, promoting collagen production, and contributing to wound healing and acne prevention Going beyond skin deep, we discuss Lactoferrin’s broader impact on overall wellness, emphasizing its potential to support immune function and contribute to holistic health We will also present the supplement industry perspective, examining beauty trends and showcasing the rise of inter nal health-focused supplements, with a particular focus on Lactoferrin’s potential in the market

n Marieke Schoemaker, Ph.D.

Dr Schoemaker is a distinguished professional in the field of nutritional science, currently serving as the Nutrition Credibility Roadmap Manager at Friesland Campina in Wageningen, Netherlands, since June 2017 W ith a rich career spanning over 15 years, Dr Schoemaker has made significant contributions to the industry, specializing in bridging disciplines, co-creating nutritional strategies, and integrating scientific and market insights into the development of innovative products and ingredients.

The Gut-Beauty

Axis:

Do Biotics, Gluten, and Enzymes Play a Role?

Sean M. Garvey, Ph.D. (BIO-CAT)

As the nutricosmetics market continues to grow, so does the science that connects beauty, skin quality, and gut physiology A key component of the gut-skin axis is the skin microbiome, which is estimated to contain up to 1.5 trillion microbes. There are species of the skin microbiome (e g , Staphylococcus aureus), which are associated with inflammatory skin conditions such as atopic der matitis and acne. Given the further association between skin and gut microbiomes, we’ll review the evidence for dietary modulation of the gut microbiome to enhance skin health Also of continued interest is the impact of dietary gluten on skin inflammation, and we’ll explore how digestive enzyme supplementation could be leveraged to reduce intestinal toxic gluten peptide exposure In closing, we’ll discuss the well-established phenomenon of senescence-associated digestive decline and its potential impacts on nutrient bioavailability, skin aging, and the gut-beauty axis.

n Sean M. Garvey, Ph.D.

Sean Garvey is an experienced nutrition scientist with a track record of nutritional product innovation. Sean obtained his Ph.D. in Genetics from Duke University, followed by postdoctoral research in Cardiology at the University of V irginia. Sean’s industry career began in 2012 at Abbott Nutrition and he now directs microbial enzyme research and development at BIO-CAT, Inc

Sleeping Beauty: The Science Behind Sleep and Skin Health

Deshanie Rai, Ph.D. (OmniActive Health Technologies)

Quality sleep is considered a critical pillar of overall health and wellbeing This is not surprising since sleep comprises one-third of an individual’s life, can affect multiple aspects of health, and simultaneously is affected by what’s going on in the mind, body, microbiome, and environment. The state of sleep health in America is dismally poor with 1 in 3 adults (~84 million Americans) not regularly getting the recommended amount of uninterrupted sleep they need to protect their health. In addition to established reports on the adverse outcomes of poor-quality sleep on metabolic, mental, cardiovascular, and immune health, there is now a growing body of evidence connecting sleep quality with skin health and integrity. Beauty sleep is no longer a myth. The act of sleep plays an instrumental role in giving one a healthy appearance with those having a good night’s sleep reporting having brighter eyes, a brighter complexion, clearer skin, and improved skin condition.

This presentation will help address what it is about sleep that makes our skin look better, and inversely, why does sleep deprivation take its toll not only on the way we feel, but the way we look, specifically our faces. We will dive through the science that connects the stages of the sleep cycle with the stages of skin health, including somatotropin, melatonin, and collagen production Finally, the discussion will conclude with nutritional strategies and mechanisms thereof to help improve sleep quality and hence skin health using plant-based bioactives (e g , Valerian)

n Deshanie Rai, Ph.D.

Dr Deshanie Rai is Vice President of OmniActive Health Technologies and Adjunct Associate Professor, Friedman School of Nutrition Sciences and Policy, Tufts University Dr Rai is an accomplished scientist with more than 20 years of industry and academic experience focused on developing, translating, and disseminating the science related to health and wellness She has made significant contributions to consumer self-care through a variety of roles in R&D including Discovery, Scientific, Regulatory, and Medical Affairs Her research has been published in peer-reviewed jour nals and she has been an invited speaker and moderator in multiple national and inter national venues including media-related events She is actively involved in advocacy through her leadership roles in trade organizations and scientific committees. Deshanie is currently the Chair of the Senior Scientific Advisory Committee at the Council for Responsible Nutrition Dr Rai is the recipient of several academic and industry awards

Event Chair

n Michael Anthonavage (V itaquest Inter national)

Michael Anthonavage serves as the VP of Innovation at Vitaquest International, dedicated to expanding the supplement market footprint and ensuring a competitive edge He has expertise in bringing new technologies to market, championing innovation and growth for all areas of health and nutrition as well as many aspects of skin and hair care product development Michael is a seasoned skin biologist, research scientist, educator, and a member of the scientific advisory board for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists for the past five years

NYSCC Employment Section

Are you looking for a candidate that loves the personal care in enjoys the thrill of designing a make-up product or Or perhaps you are seeking someone with expertise in raw Maybe you need some help around the lab and could use a tenac who wants to start their career in the personal care space

The NYSCC Chapter supports you and your business with FREE p to our webpage Contact employmentadmin@nyscc.org to have passionate candidates apply to your roles Recent postings include companies such as Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Kenvue, Olaplex, and Symrise for roles in Sales, Marketing, For mulations, and Regulatory

Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are currently posted on the NYSCC website For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs.

• Senior For mulation Chemist/Lab Manager – Verla Inter national, New W indsor, NY

• Quality Control Lab Inter nship – KOBO Products

• Technical Sales Account Manager – MMP Inc, South Plainfield, NJ

• Regulatory Documentation Specialist – Leading Edge Innovations, Branchburg, NJ

• For mulation Chemist – Verla Inter national, New W indsor, NY

• Technical Sale Representative – Rossow USA Inc, New Jersey

• Chemist – Azelis Group, Princeton, NJ

• Senior Chemist Applications Lab – KOBO, South Plainfield, NJ

NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day

Harnessing the Power of Science and Intentionality for a Sustainable Future

An Educational Program and Service Activity

April 11, 2024 • 4:00 –

8:30 p.m.

Stella Marina Restaurant Asbury Park, NJ

To celebrate Earth Day, please join us at Stella Marina Restaurant in Asbury Park, New Jersey on April 11th as we address the effect of pollution and climate change on the environment and the consequences for the personal care industry. We will also explore the legislation and policies framework surrounding these issues as well as future expectations In addition, we will investigate how changes in temperature, water and soil resources, and the chemistry of the air are affecting the plants that provide a multitude of ingredients for cosmetics ranging from aromas to soothing oils. Moreover, we will discuss how the entire supply chain is at increasing risk from more extremes in weather in ter ms of crop production, transportation, storage, and manufacturing of the final product.

Despite the challenges introduced by pollution and climate change, solutions and opportunities exist Our work should focus on assessing the supply chain, investing in suppliers, minimizing our impact on the climate, and considering alter native ingredients. In addition, the development of climate resilient crop plants and new production practices such as vertical and glasshouse far ming will be considered Finally, aligning products to meet the demands of a harsher environment will also be discussed.

Proudly sponsored by:

Event organizer: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (giorgio dellacqua@hotmail com)

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). Agenda

4:00 – 5:10 p m

Registration and Networking Reception

5:10 – 5:15 p m Welcome

5:15 – 6:00 p.m. Cleaning the Beach

6:00 – 6:50 p.m. Sustainability Tailwinds and Perfect Stor m: The Role of Nature, Technology, Policy, and Circularity in Transitioning Towards the Awesome Anthropocene. How Climate Change and Non-Sustainable Practices can influence the Cosmetic Industry Simona Azzolini (Futerra)

6:50 – 7:30 p.m. Dinner

7:30 – 8:20 p.m. Climate change and the cosmetic industry: Challenges and Opportunities for Supply Chain

Professor Michael Hoffmann, Ph D (Cor nell University)

8:20 – 8:25 p.m. Closing Remarks

n Simona Azzolini

Speaker Biographies

Simona is the Sustainability Strategy Director at Futerra, a global agency focused on sustainable development. She is also a judge for the Sustainability Award at CEW Simona is a fir m believer that businesses can be regenerative and have a positive impact on the world and society Her job at Futerra is to create compelling and forward-looking sustainability strategies Simona’s past career in R&D and brand strategy represents a unique source of insights on how to embed sustainability within brands and organizations and drive authentic and tangible impact Moved by an inquisitive mind and the desire to accelerate change, she is always pushing the boundaries of what is possible and finding creative and innovative solutions that turns problems into opportunities At Futerra, she led several projects for globally recognized brands and companies such as For mula 1, Danone, Nestlé, Kao, L’ Oréal, Nivea, Loro Piana, and Ralph Lauren. In her free time, you can find her spending time immersed in nature with her children or going to art exhibitions She practices yoga and loves skiing and running

n Michael Hoffmann

Professor Mike Hoffmann has dedicated his life to confronting the grand challenge of climate change by helping people understand and appreciate what is happening through the foods we all love and need He has published climate change articles in the popular press The Hill, Fortune, Medium, The Messenger, and USA Today and is lead author of Our Changing Menu: Climate Change and the Foods We Love and Need (Cor nell Press 2021) He has also done a TEDx Talk on “Climate change: It’s time to raise our voices” and given >150 climate change related talks Mike’s life experiences include growing up on a one-cow dairy far m and serving in the Marines during the Vietnam War. He has held multiple leadership roles in Cor nell’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences including Executive Director of the Cor nell Institute for Climate Change Solutions. He received his B.S. degree from University W isconsin, M.S. from University of Arizona, and Ph D from University of Califor nia, Davis He now holds the title of Professor Emeritus He will tell the climate change story until he no longer can

Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions and Future Direction for Innovation

June 3, 2024

8:00 a.m. –

6:00 p.m. Chart House

Weehawken, NJ

The age of the Inter net has accelerated the spread of misinfor mation Further, it enables virtually anyone to become an author of inaccurate infor mation that can be transmitted to roughly 60% of the world’s population who have access to digital technology. False and misleading information has impacted every aspect of society including health care and the beauty industry Digital rumors and inaccurate data have caused numerous segments of society to become distrustful of science and scientific experts. The safety and efficacy of sunscreens is currently a hot topic that is subject to such misinfor mation, resulting in distrust of scientists responsible for ensuring the safety of skin care products. Social media assertions have ranged from claims that sunscreens are ineffective to allegations that they contain a cocktail of toxic ingredients which may cause more har m than benefit for the health of people In this symposium, we will address several controversial issues in the sun care space including concer ns about estrogens in sunscreen products as hor mone disruptors; the possibility that sunscreens penetrate skin at dangerous levels; and details surrounding environmental impacts of sunscreen use

Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (howard.epstein@emdgroup.com)

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)