used. Pandan leaf, also called screwpine, has a subtle, exotic flavor and a sweet, comforting aroma. If you can get it fresh, mince, blend or crush it with a mortar and pestle, and squeeze one tablespoon of its green juice into the mixing bowl instead of vanilla.) Pour this mixture into your hollowed-out squash, leaving about a half inch of space below the cut-out rim. Don’t put the top back on. Steam it for 45 minutes to an hour in a basket steamer. You might want to set the squash in a bowl for extra support as it steams, so it doesn’t collapse when it gets soft. After 45 minutes, check on the “pie.” The custard should have expanded into the top opening. Insert a butter knife deep into the custard. Using
a layer of slime on it when removed. Keep steaming, checking every 10 minutes until the custard is set. Then turn off the heat, and don’t disturb the delicate squash until it cools to room temperature. When it’s room temperature, cut the squash into wedges like a pie, and serve. The contrast of bright orange flesh and white custard is striking, and if it weren’t for the flavors awaiting you, you might be tempted to simply look at it and stop there.
Savory the point of insertion as a pivot point, wag the tip of the knife back and forth, like a paddle. If the custard is set, you won’t be
able to paddle. If the custard is still soupy, there will be little or no resistance against the moving knife blade, which will have
Feast 2012
One thing that’s so special about winter squash is how well it lends itself to both sweet and savory applications. Back in my days as a pumpkin pie tycoon, I dabbled in savory pies, adding meat, greens, gar-
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