Baja Good Life Guide Book by Baja Good Life Club

2014 Baja Good Life Guide www.bglclub.com BAJA CALIFORNIA MEXICO

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Sunrise on the Sea of Cortez. Photo by Elaine Jansen.

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a guide to living, working and playing in Baja, parttime or full-time. In Baja, things can change rapidly, so we decided to stay as current as possible, we would publish these guides annually. However, we’re sure there will still be information that may have already changed between the time of writing and publishing and in an effort to keep our members informed, these updates will be published on our website. We also know that not all topics are covered, unfortunately printing is very expensive, so not everything can make it into the book, however those article will be also be available on our website. We would like to encourage you to participate in the development of these guides. If you would like a topic covered or you think you’ve found an error, please email us at books@bglclub.com. We hope this Baja Good Life Club community guide becomes your companion in your search for the Baja Good Life. These guides come from a deep-rooted, lifelong passion for Baja California and the accumulation of years of travel, research, writing, and publishing. Make it a Great Baja Day, John & Rachel Pack

In February 2007, Rachel and I began publishing a free, full-color, bi-monthly magazine to highlight the wonders of Baja and provide answers and information to foreign visitors. Today, the magazine is no longer John & Rachel Pack, owners being published, and of the Baja Good Life Club. has been replaced by the annual book you’re reading now, which is appropriately entitled “Baja Good Life Guide”. This guide is the annual member guide of the Baja Good Life Club (BGLC). BGLC is a travel and retirement club for Baja California, which provides its members with discounts and savings on the products and services they need in Baja, including exclusive discounts on Mexican auto, home and medical insurance, medical care, dining, lodging, groceries and more. This book is one in a community guide that covers all the standard guide topics, like places to stay and eat, and things to see and do, but also

Richard & Joyce Lawrence, without their unconditional love and support, there is no telling where life would have taken us. Gene Jensen & Debbie Jerome, for always being there and always being a friend, you are and always will be special to us. Christine Wood and Lorraine Fisher, you’re kindred spirits and being with you inspires us and encourages us to live our dream.

Playa Coyote, Bahia Concepcion, Sea of Cortez, Baja California Sur, Mexico. Photo by jeri71.

We love you all very much. John & Rachel 9

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Payments mailed to John Pack PO Box 9019 PMB-460 Calexico CA 92232 Make checks payable to Rachel Lawrence 10

Mexican Man by Unknown.

Photo of cacti Larry Moe, and Curly during the 2012 Baja Walk. By Rachel Pack.

Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), Mexico was firmly established as an upper middle-income country, and in 2009 Mexico surpassed the world bank’s high income economic threshold to become a high income country. Mexico is considered a newly industrialized country and an emerging power. It has the 13th largest nominal GDP and the 11th largest by purchasing power parity. The economy is strongly linked to those of its North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) partners, especially the United States, as well as tourism, being the world’s tenth most visited country with over 21.4 million international arrivals. Mexico boasts a long tradition in the arts, renowned cuisine, and culture, and it ranks fifth in the world and first in the Americas on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites with 31.

Mexico, officially known as the United Mexican States is a federal constitutional republic in North America. It is bordered on the north by the United States; on the south and west by the Pacific Ocean; on the southeast by Guatemala, Belize, and the Caribbean Sea; and on the east by the Gulf of Mexico. Covering almost 2 million square kilometres (over 760,000 sq mi), Mexico is the fifth-largest country in the Americas by total area and the 14th largest independent nation in the world. With an estimated population of 111 million, it is the 11th most populous country and the most populous Hispanophone country on Earth. Mexico is a federation comprising thirtyone states and a Federal District, the capital city. In Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica many cultures matured into advanced civilizations such as the Olmec, the Toltec, the Teotihuacan, the Zapotec, the Maya and the Aztec before the first contact with Europeans. In 1521, Spain conquered and colonized the territory, which was administered as the Viceroyalty of New Spain. This territory would eventually become Mexico as the colony independence was recognized in 1821. The post-independence period was characterized by economic instability, the Mexican–American War and territorial cession to the US, a civil war, two empires and a domestic dictatorship. The latter led to the Mexican Revolution in 1910, which culminated with the promulgation of the 1917 Constitution and the emergence of the country’s current political system. Elections held in July 2000 marked the first time that an opposition party won the presidency from the Institutional Revolutionary Party (Spanish: Partido Revolucionario Institucional, PRI). After rapid economic, social and technological growth beginning in the 1990s, Mexico is now both one of the world’s largest economies and one of the fastest growing economies in the world, with a stable growth rate of 7.6%. As a regional power, and since 1994 the first Latin American member of the

Baja California officially Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California (English: Free and Sovereign State of Baja California) is one of the 31 states which with the Federal District comprise the 32 federative entities of Mexico. It is both the northernmost and westernmost state of Mexico. Before becoming a state in 1953, the area was known as the North Territory of Baja California. It has an area of 70,113 km2 (27,071 sq mi), or 3.57% of the land mass of Mexico and comprises the northern half of the Baja California peninsula, north of the 28th parallel. The state is bordered on the west by the Pacific Ocean, on the east by Sonora, the U.S. State of Arizona, and the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortez), and on the south by Baja California Sur. Its northern limit is the U.S. state of California. The state has a population of 2,844,469 (2005 census), and estimated 3,165,776 (June 2009) much more than the sparsely populated Baja California Sur to the south, and similar to San Diego County on its north. Over 75% of the population lives in the capital city, Mexicali, Ensenada, or in Tijuana. Other important cities include San Felipe, Playas de Rosarito and 15

Everyone enjoys the view above Playa Coyote. Photo by Raine Fisher and Christine Wood.

Tecate. The population of the state is composed of Mestizos, mostly immigrants from other parts of Mexico, and, as with most northern Mexican states, a large population of Mexicans of European ancestry, and also a large minority group of East Asian, Middle Eastern and indigenous descent. Additionally, there is a large immigrant population from the United States due to its proximity to San Diego and the cheaper cost of living compared to San Diego. There is also a significant population from Central America. Many immigrants moved to Baja California for a better quality of life and the number of higher paying jobs in comparison to the rest of Mexico and Latin America. Baja California is the twelfth largest state by area in Mexico. Its geography ranges from beaches to forests and deserts. The backbone of the state is the Sierra de Baja California, where the Picacho del Diablo, the highest point of the peninsula, is located. This mountain range effectively divides the weather patterns in the state. In the northwest, the weather is semi-dry and mediterranean. In the narrow center, the weather changes to be more humid due to altitude. It is in this area where a few valleys can be found, such as the Valle de Guadalupe, the major wine producer area in Mexico. To the east of the mountain range, the Sonoran Desert dominates the landscape.

In the south, the weather becomes drier and gives place to the Vizcaino Desert. The state is also home to numerous islands off both of its shores. In fact, the westernmost point in Mexico, the Guadalupe Island, is part of Baja California. The Coronado, Todos Santos and Cedros Islands are also on the Pacific Shore. On the Gulf of California, the biggest island is the Angel de la Guarda, separated from the peninsula by the deep and narrow Canal de Ballenas.

The first people came to the peninsula at least 11,000 years ago. At that time two main native groups are thought to be present on the peninsula. In the south were the Cochimí. In the north were several groups belonging to the Yuman linguistic family, including the Kiliwa, Paipai, Kumeyaay, Cocopa, and Quechan. These peoples were diverse in their adaptations to the region. The Cochimí of the peninsula’s Central Desert were generalized huntergatherers who moved frequently; however, the Cochimí on Cedros Island off the west coast had developed a strongly maritime economy. The Kiliwa, Paipai, and Kumeyaay in the betterwatered northwest were also hunter-gatherers, but that region supported denser populations and more sedentary lifeways. The Cocopa 16

and Quechan of northeastern Baja California practiced agriculture in the floodplain of the lower Colorado River. Europeans reached the present state of Baja California in 1539, when Francisco de Ulloa reconnoitered its east coast on the Gulf of California and explored the peninsula’s west coast at least as far north as Cedros Island. Hernando de Alarcón returned to the east coast and ascended the lower Colorado River in 1540, and Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo or Joan Rodrigues Cabrilho completed the reconnaissance of the west coast in 1542. Sebastián Vizcaíno again surveyed the west coast in 1602, but outside visitors during the following century were few. The Jesuits founded a permanent mission colony on the peninsula at Loreto in 1697. During the following decades, they gradually extended their sway throughout the present state of Baja California Sur. In 1751–1753, the Croatian Jesuit mission-explorer Ferdinand Konščak made overland explorations northward into the state of Baja California. Jesuit missions were subsequently established among the Cochimí at Santa Gertrudis (1752), San Borja (1762), and Santa María (1767). After the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1768, the short-lived Franciscan administration (1768–1773) resulted in one new mission at San Fernando Velicatá. More importantly, the 1769 expedition to settle Alta California under Gaspar de Portolà and Junípero Serra resulted in the first overland exploration of the northwestern portion of the state. The Dominicans took over management of the Baja California missions from the Franciscans in 1773. They established a chain of new missions among the northern Cochimí and western Yumans, first on the coast and subsequently inland, extending from El Rosario (1774) to Descanso (1817), just south of Tijuana.

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The colonial governors were: • 1804–1805 José Joaquín de Arillaga (s.a.) • 1806–1814 Felipe de Goycoechea • 1814 – 11 April 1822 José Darío Argüello • 1848: Alta California is annexed by the United States. • 1853: Soldier of fortune William Walker captures La Paz, declaring himself President of the Republic of Lower California. The Mexican government forces his retreat after several months. • 1884: Luis Huller and George H. Sisson obtain a concession covering much of the present state, in return for promises to develop the area. • 1905: The Magonista revolution, an anarchist movement based on the writings of Ricardo Flores Magón and Enrique Flores Magón, begins. • 1911: Mexicali and Tijuana are captured by the Mexican Liberal Party (Partido Liberal Mexicano, PLM), but soon surrender to Federal forces. • 1930: Baja California is further divided into Northern and Southern territories. • 1952: The North Territory of Baja California becomes the 29th state of Mexico, Baja California. The southern portion, below 28°N, remains a federally administered territory. • 1974: The South Territory of Baja California becomes the 31st state, Baja California Sur. • 1989: Ernesto Ruffo Appel of the PAN becomes the first non-PRI governor of Baja California and the first opposition governor of any state since the Revolution.

Even though the state is not large in area, its geography is very diverse. The Sierra de Baja California (also known as the Peninsular Ranges) runs in the middle of the state with different denominations. The two most important are the Sierra de Juarez and the Sierra de San Pedro Martir. These ranges are home to forests similar to those in Southern California.

1804: The Spanish colony of California was divided into Alta (“Upper”) and Baja (“Lower”) California at the line separating the Franciscan missions in the north from the Dominican missions in the south. 17

shore. Guadalupe Island is the remote outpost to the west and it is home to big colonies of sea lions. In Cedros Island there is a small community living mostly on fishing. The Todos Santos Islands, in front of Ensenada, are popular with surfers offering some of the highest waves worldwide. The state is also blessed with numerous beaches on its east coast. Fishing and touristic towns such as San Felipe and Bahia de los Angeles are a major attraction for people in search of adventure, nice beaches and fresh fish. The area south of San Felipe is basically undeveloped and pristine beaches can be found in many bays. All of the islands in the Gulf of California, on the Baja California side, belong to the municipality of Mexicali. The main source of water in the state are the Tijuana River, serving the cities of Mexicali, Tecate, and Tijuana and the Colorado River, and its tributary the Hardy River which empty into the Gulf of California, (but now barely reach the Gulf). The rest of the state depends mostly on wells and a few dams. Tijuana also purchases water from San Diego County’s Otay Water District. Potable water is the largest natural resource issue of the state.

The Picacho del Diablo is the highest peak in the whole peninsula, offering spectacular views of the Gulf of California. Lying in between these mountain ranges, there are some valleys that are suitable for agriculture such as the Valle de Guadalupe and the Valle de Ojos Negros. The mild weather makes this area excellent for the production of citrus fruits and grapes. This area is also rich in minerals. The mountain range gets closer to the Gulf of California towards the south of the state and the western slope becomes wider, forming the Llanos del Berrendo in the border with Baja California Sur. The mountain ranges located in the center and southern part of the state include the Sierra de La Asamblea, Sierra de Calamajué, Sierra de San Luis and the Sierra de San Borja. The cool winds from the Pacific Ocean and the cold California Current make the climate along the northwestern coast pleasant year round. The coastal city of Ensenada have one of the nicest weather patterns in the whole Mexico. But due to the California current, rains from the north barely reach the peninsula and this makes the weather drier towards the south. The area becomes a desert south of El Rosario River. This desert, however, is rich in succulents such as the Cardon, Boojum tree, Ocotillo and others. These plants can flourish in part due to the coastal fog. To the east, the Sonoran Desert enters the state from both California and Sonora. Some of the highest temperatures in Mexico are recorded in or nearby the Mexicali Valley. However, with irrigation from the Colorado River, this area has become truly an agricultural center. The Cerro Prieto geothermical province is nearby Mexicali as well (this area is geologically part of a large pull apart basin); producing about 80% of the electricity consumed in the state and enough more to export to California. Laguna Salada, a saline lake below the sea level lying in between the rugged Sierra de Juarez and the Sierra de los Cucapah, is also in the vicinity of Mexicali. The state government has recently been considering plans to revive Laguna Salada. The highest mountain in the Sierra de los Cucapah is the Cerro del Centinela or Mount Signal. The Cucapah are the primary indigenous people of that area and up into the Yuma AZ area. There are numerous islands on the Pacific

Common trees are the Jeffrey Pine, Sugar Pine and Pinon Pine. Understory species include Manzanita. Fauna include a variety of reptiles including the Western fence lizard, which is at the southern extent of its range. The name of the fish genus Bajacalifornia is derived from the Baja California peninsula.

Baja California is subdivided into five municipios (municipalities). Also see Destinations Section. • Ensenada • Mexicali • Tecate • Tijuana • Playas de Rosarito

At 3:40:41 pm PDT on Easter Sunday, 4 April 2010 a 7.2 magnitude northwest trending 18

Windsurfers and kitesurfers at Punta San Carlos. Photo courtesy of Bajabound.com.

strike-slip earthquake hit the Mexicali Valley, with its epicenter 26 km southwest of the city Guadalupe Victoria, Baja California, Mexico. The main shock was felt as far as the Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Phoenix and Tucson metropolitan areas; in Yuma, Arizona, was felt with a 7.2 magnitude, in Ensenada was felt a 6.9 magnitude, in Tijuana 6.4 and San Luis Rio Colorado with 7.2. At least a half-dozen aftershocks with magnitudes between 5.0 and 5.4 were reported, including a 5.1-magnitude shaker at 4:14 am. that was centered near El Centro. As of 6:31AM PDT, 5 April 2010, two people have been confirmed dead.

Also a significant number of Middle Eastern immigrants such as Lebanese and Armenians settle near the U.S. border, and small waves of settlers in the early 20th century, usually members of the Molokan sect of the Russian Orthodox church fled the Russian Revolution of 1917 when the Soviet Union took power, had established a few villages along the Pacific coast south of Ensenada. Since 1960, large numbers of migrants from southern Mexican states have arrived to work in agriculture (esp. the Mexicali Valley and nearby Imperial Valley, California, US) and manufacturing. The cities of Ensenada, Tijuana and Mexicali grew as a result of migrants, primarily those who sought US citizenship and those temporary residents awaiting their entry into the United States are called Flotillas, which is derived from the Spanish word “flota,” meaning “fleet.” There is also a sizable immigrant community from Central and South America, and from the United States and Canada. An estimated 200,000+ American expatriates live in the state, especially in coastal resort town such as Ensenada, known for affordable homes purchased by retirees who continue to hold US citizenship. San Felipe, Ensenada and Tijuana also has a large American population (second largest in Mexico next to Mexico City), particularly for its cheaper housing and proximity to San Diego.

The racial make-up of the state is approximately 40% White/European (mostly but not limited to people of descent), 36% Mestizo (Mixed Amerindian and European), 9% east Asian, the remaining 15% is Native American (of Mexican and Central American origins). Historically, the state had sizable east Asian immigration, esp. Mexicali has a large Chinese community, as well many Filipinos from the Philippines arrived to the state during the eras of Spanish and later American rule (1898– 1946) in much of the 19th and 20th centuries. Tijuana and Ensenada was a major port of entry for east Asians entering the U.S. ever since the first Asian-Americans were present in California. 19

of several Clovis points in the northern part of the state. The possibility of an even earlier occupation has been raised by radiocarbon dates from a site on Isla Espíritu Santo, but this interpretation still remains controversial. Before phases of the state’s prehistory are manifested in several archaeological complexes: • The Las Palmas Complex in the Cape Region and on nearby islands in the Gulf of California is primarily a mortuary pattern. Hallmarks include caves or rock shelters containing secondary burials of human bones painted with red ochre. • The Comondú Complex represents late prehistoric occupation throughout the central portion of the peninsula, perhaps dating between about A.D. 500 and 1700. It is recognized, in particular, by small, triangular projectile points that attest to the introduction of the bow and arrow into the region. • The Great Mural Rock Art is the bestknown archaeological phenomenon in northern Baja California Sur. In the Sierra de Guadalupe and Sierra de San Francisco, many rockshelters contain larger-than-life paintings of humans, deer and other animals. Four distinct ethnolinguistic groups were encountered in Baja California Sur by the early explorers and missionaries: the Pericú in the south, between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, and on several of the islands in the Gulf; the Guaycura from La Paz to south of Loreto; the Monqui, in the area around Loreto; and the Cochimí, in extensive areas throughout the middle of the peninsula.

property has the option to either remain within the Trust or opt out of it and request the title in “Escritura”. Mexico’s early history involved foreign invasions and the loss of vast amounts of land; in fear of history being repeated, the Mexican constitution established the concept of the “Restricted Zone”. In 1973, in order to bring in more foreign tourist investment, the Bank Trust of Fideicomiso was created, thus allowing nonMexicans to own land without any constitutional amendment necessary. Since the law went into effect, it has undergone many modifications in order to make purchasing land in Mexico a safer investment.

Northern Baja desert. Photo courtesy of Bajabound.com.

as well as technology for the incubation of companies. The number of various graduate degrees offered, including Ph.D. programs, is 121. The state has 53 graduate schools.

About 92% of Baja California’s population is Christian, 81% of them are Catholics.

Baja California has one of the best educational programs in the country, with first places in schooling and achievement. The State Government provides education and qualification courses to increase the workforce standards, such as SchoolEnterprise linkage programs which helps the development of labor force according to the needs of the industry. 91.60% of the population from six to fourteen years of age attend elementary school. 61.95% of the population over fifteen years of age attend or have already graduated from high school. Public School is available in all levels, from kindergarten to university. The state has 32 universities offering 103 professional degrees. These universities have 19 Research and Development centers for basic and applied investigation in advanced projects of Biotechnology, Physics, Oceanography, Digital Geothermal Technology, Astronomy, Aerospace, Electrical Engineering and Clean Energy, among others. At this educational level supply is steadily growing. Baja California has developed a need to be self-sufficient in matters of technological and scientific innovation and to be less dependent on foreign countries. Current businesses demand new production processes

As of 2005, Baja California’s economy represents 3.3% of Mexico’s gross domestic product or 21,996 million USD. Baja California’s economy has a strong focus on tariff-free export oriented manufacturing (maquiladora). As of 2005, 284,255 people are employed in the manufacturing sector. There are a more than 900 companies operating under the federal Prosec program in Baja California. The average wage for a maquiladora employee in Baja California is in the range of 2 to 3 US Dollars per hour.

The Foreign Investment Law of 1973 allows foreigners to purchase land within the borders and coasts of Mexico by way of a trust, handled through a Mexican bank (Fideicomiso). This trust assures to the buyer all the rights and privileges of ownership, and it can be sold, inherited, leased, or transferred at any time. Since 1994, the Foreign Investment Law stipulates that the Fideicomiso must be to a 50 year term, with the option to petition for a 50 year renewal at any time. Any Mexican citizen buying a bank trust 20

Baja California Sur officially Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California Sur (English: Free and Sovereign State of Baja California Sur), (literally: South Lower California), is one of 31 states with the Federal District comprise the 32 federative entities of Mexico. Before becoming a state on October 8, 1974, the area was known as the South Territory of Baja California. It has an area of 73,475 km2 (28,369 sq mi), or 3.57% of the land mass of Mexico and comprises the southern half of the Baja California peninsula, south of the 28th parallel. It is bordered to the north by the state of Baja California, to the west by the Pacific Ocean, and to the east by the Gulf of California, also known as the “Sea of Cortés.” Also, the state has maritime borders with Sonora and Sinaloa to the east across the Gulf of California. As of 2005, the population was 512,170. The state is home to the tourist resorts of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. Its largest city and capital is La Paz, a tourist resort and historic landmark. It includes Loreto, the historic first capital of all three Californias (Baja California Sur, Baja California, and California), the town of Santa Rosalía which is the site of a historic church designed by Gustave Eiffel.

The European discovery of Baja California Sur is credited to Fortún Ximénez, a mutineer on an expedition dispatched by the conqueror of central Mexico, Hernán Cortés in early 1533. Cortés himself led an expedition to the “Island of California” 1535, but he soon abandoned the fruitless enterprise. In 1539– 1542, both coasts of Baja California Sur were reconnoitered by Francisco de Ulloa and Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo. Over the next century and

The first inhabitants are thought to have arrived to the peninsula at least 11,000 years ago, to judge by the archaeological discovery 21

a half, a variety of explorers and pearl hunters (including Sebastián Vizcaíno) visited the peninsula’s shores but seem to have had little lasting impact. The Jesuits began their involvement in 1683– 1685 when Eusebio Francisco Kino, along with the admiral Isidro de Atondo y Antillón, made two major but ultimately unsuccessful efforts at colonization, at La Paz and then at San Bruno, north of Loreto. In 1697 the Jesuit missionary Juan María de Salvatierra established Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó, the first permanent mission in Baja California Sur. Jesuit control over the peninsula was gradually extended, first in the region around Loreto, then to the south in the Cape region, and finally toward the north across the northern boundary of Baja California Sur. The Jesuits were expelled from the peninsula in 1768 and replaced by the Franciscans under Junípero Serra. In 1773, the Franciscans in turn ceded control of the Baja California missions to the Dominicans. The native population of Baja California Sur steadily diminished during the colonial period, primarily under the impacts of Old World diseases but also in occasional violent conflicts. While the Jesuits had striven to limit lay Spanish or Mexican settlement on the peninsula, fearful of corrupting influences and competing power centers, the missions under the Franciscans and Dominicans had to accept a growing lay presence and increased control from central New Spain. The peninsula was divided into two separate entities in 1804, with the southern one having the seat of government established in the port of Loreto. The colonial governors were: • 1804–1805 Claytoné de Allín (s.a.) • 1806–1814 Ritchié de Níko • 1814 - 11 April 1822 José Darío Argüello

of the United States was defeated near the town of Mulegé by Captain Manuel Pineda, as part of the Mexican-American War. As a consequence of this battle, the U.S. army was forced to withdraw from the peninsula and could not lay claim to it as part of the new territories acquired through the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo of 1848. In 1853, a group of 45, led by journalist William Walker, without the authorization of the United States Government, captured the city of La Paz, before the Mexican Army forced the 45 to retreat back to the United States. The Territory of Baja California was created in 1888 under the government of President Porfirio Díaz. In 1930, Baja California was again divided into North and South parties, renamed later as North and South districts, then, into North and South territories. In 1952, the North Territory of Baja California became the 29th state of Mexico, Baja California. The southern portion, below 28°N, remained a federally administered territory until 1974, when the South Territory of Baja California became the 31st state, Baja California Sur, along with the state of Quintana Roo.

Baja California Sur is characterized by deserts, mountains and coastal flatlands. The climate is desert-like in most parts of the state. Plants such as cardon, mezquite and wildlettuce, mountain lions, and other plants and wildlife characteristic of this ecosystem, are found in the Central and Vizcaino Deserts of Baja California Sur. Parallel to the coast lies the Sierra de la Giganta, with pine and oak forests. To the west, the coastline flatlands form beautiful plains like the Llanos Santa Clara, Magdalena and Hiray, just to name a few. The Biosphere Natural Reserve of El Vizcaíno, with its 2.5 million hectares, is the largest natural reserve in Latin America. It is located in the Mulegé municipality and extends from the west end of the Vizcaíno Peninsula and the San Ignacio and Ojo de Liebre lakes, passing over the San Francisco Sierra, to the shores of the Sea of Cortez and the islands in the Gulf of California. The state is known for its natural

After the Mexican War of Independence, President Guadalupe Victoria named Lt. Col. José María Echeandía governor of Baja California Sur and divided it in four municipios (municipalities). In 1830, the capital was moved to La Paz after Loreto was partially destroyed by heavy rains. On October 2, 1847 the army 22

features. The Vizcaíno Desert and small coastal lakes San Ignacio and Ojo de Liebre in the north are protected by the federal government. The state includes the Pacific islands of Natividad, Magdalena, and Santa Margarita, as well as the islands of San Marcos, Coronados, Carmen, Montserrat, Santa Catalina, Santa Cruz, San Diego, San José, San Francisco, Partida, Espíritu Santo, and Cerralvo, which are located in the Gulf of California. Rocas Alijos are a group of tiny, steep and barren volcanic islets found offshore. Numerous flora and fauna are found in Baja California Sur. Notable among the tree species is the Elephant tree, Bursera microphylla, which species exhibits a contorted multi-furcate architecture.

Baja California Sur is subdivided into five municipalities (municipios). Also see the Destinations Section

• • • • • • • • •

The 2005 Population and Housing Census registered 512,170 inhabitants. According to the number of inhabitants per state, Baja California South ranks last in the country at 32nd place. It also has the lowest population density: only 6 persons per km2. The state population is very young- more than half of it is under 29 years old. Only 2% of the population speaks an indigenous language, mixteco, náhuatl and zapoteco being the main ones.

Cabo San Lucas Ciudad Constitución Ciudad Insurgentes Guerrero Negro La Paz Loreto El Pescadero San José del Cabo Santa Rosalía

California is currently a place used by three North American entities—in the United States, by the state of California; and in Mexico, by the states of Baja California (“Lower California”) and Baja California Sur (“South Lower California”) (collectively, these three areas constitute the region formerly referred to as Las Californias)—and shared by many other places in other parts of the world whose names derive from these. Several origins have been suggested for the word “California”, including Spanish, Latin, South Asian, and Aboriginal American origins. All of these are disputed. The following paragraphs illustrate some of the extant claims. California, called the Las Californias Province of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, originally referred to the entire region composed of the Baja California peninsula now known as Mexican Baja California and Baja California Sur, and upper mainland now known as the U.S. states of California and parts of Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and Wyoming. After Mexico’s independence from Spain, the upper territory became the Alta California province. In even earlier times, the boundaries of the Sea of Cortés and the Pacific Ocean coastlines were only partially explored and California was shown on early maps as an island, ‘Califa.’ The Sea of Cortés is also known as the Gulf of California.

Baja California Sur enjoys the lowest illiteracy levels of the country (3.6%). Institutions of higher education includes: • Universidad Autónoma de Baja California Sur (UABCS) • Instituto Tecnológico de La Paz (ITLP) • Centro de Investigaciones Biológicas del Noroeste (CIBNOR) • Centro Interdisciplinario de Ciencias Marinas (CICIMAR) • Universidad Pedagógica Nacional (UPN) • Universidad Internacional de la Paz (UNIPAZ) • Instituto Tecnológico Superior de Ciudad Constitución (ITSCC) 23

leader of the uprising while managing to occupy Oaxaca and Acapulco by 1813. He quickly convened the National Constituent Congress of Chilpancingo which created the first document of independence called The Solemn Act of Northern America’s Declaration of Independence. Two years later, Morelos was captured and executed by the Spanish authorities. After 1815, the cause of the revolution was sustained mostly by guerrilla bands led by two other remarkable leaders: Guadalupe Victoria in Puebla and Vicente Guerrero in Oaxaca. In December 1820, the Spanish government sent Colonel Agustín de Iturbide to defeat Vicente Guerrero and disband the rest of the rebels. The mission of Iturbide unfolded simultaneously with a military coup against the monarchy of Ferdinand VI. Iturbide was appalled at the liberal character of this coup, and he thought this would be a great moment for Mexico to emerge as a conservative, independent country. Iturbide quickly switched sides and invited Vicente Guerrero for negotiations. In the town of Iguala, the colonel laid out the basic principles (or guarantees) of Mexican independence: the

The struggle of the Mexican colony to gain independence dates back to the 18th century, but the rebel who set the mechanism of war in motion was priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. The main purpose of his rebellion was to put an end to the privileges of the colonists. With the support of the parishioners from his hometown Dolores, on September 10, 1810, he proclaimed independence from the crown through the famous Grito de Dolores (“Cry of Dolores”). The Grito de Dolores would plunge the country into a decade long war. The revolutionary army led by Hidalgo marched towards Guanajuato, a mining center dominated by the Spanish. The rebels captured and killed all the leaders of the community. At the end of October, the revolutionary army won the Battle of Monte de las Cruces against the Spanish, but lost the confrontation they had in Mexico City. Hidalgo and his army were vanquished during the Battle of the Bridge of Calderón. Hidalgo himself was tried and executed shortly after the defeat. Hidalgo was dead, but the revolution was not. José María Morelos came out as the 24

new country would be led by a Bourbon or other conservative prince, there would be equal rights between criollos* and peninsulares**, and the Catholic Church would preserve all its privileges and lands. The Army of the Three Guarantees emerged under the leadership of Iturbide who was now supported by all rebel forces across Mexico. On August 24, 1821, the colonel and the Spanish government signed the Treaty of Córdoba which proclaimed the independence of Mexico. On May 18, 1822, Iturbide was declared emperor and he ruled for a short period together with a sympathetic junta. Due to his role in the start of the long process that would lead to independence, Miguel Hidalgo is unanimously considered the Father of the Mexican Nation and Liberator of Mexico. In his honor, the Mexican government changed the name of Hidalgo’s hometown to Dolores Hidalgo. Since the moment of independence, Mexicans all across the world have celebrated their national day on September 16. Since this is a public holiday, many people show up for the day’s festivities. Participants enjoy snacks, candies, punch based on seasonal fruit, and mariachi music. Some foods are considered representative of the Independence Day: pozole (hominy and pork), and chile en nogada (poblano chiles, meat, dried fruit, walnut sauce, pomegranate seeds, and parsley). Festivities are organized in all towns and communities, big or small. The largest festivity takes place in city square Zocalo, Mexico City. Starting with September 1st, the square is vividly decorated in red, white, and green – the colors of the Mexican flag. Every year, at 11:00 PM on September 15, the President climbs to the balcony of the National Palace, rings the same bell that Hidalgo rang in 1886, and he recites the Grito de Dolores while the crowd responds with “¡Viva!”. Next, the fireworks begin and the crowd sings the anthem.

The narrow slice of heaven on Earth known as the Mexican state of Baja was not always an area everyone dreamt of visiting in their lifetime. While world travel and access to information has shown the masses the unique treasures and landscapes that Baja has to offer, there was a time in the not so distant past where Baja was virtually uninhabited and unexplored. The first known outside explorer to venture into Baja seeking fabled riches was Hernan Cortes in the 1530’s. The peninsula was only home to small native communities until Cortes arrived seeking gold, pearls, and proof of the existence of fierce Amazon women. Cortes and his followers left after finding none of what they sought. Another explorer, Sebastian Vizcaino also set foot on the paradise looking to acquire massive amounts of pearls in the late 1500’s. He too left empty handed and unappreciative of the natural riches of this unique landscape. During this time and for centuries afterwards, tales of pirates and sea fearer stops to hide treasure and goods began to emerge and give the area a sort of mythical status. However, Baja was still only inhabited by a small population of natives who lived a very simple existence. Once Spain set its sights on the land and made it their mission to convert the natives to Christianity, the land of Baja began to change forever. Spain wanted to claim the land and transform the religious beliefs of the locals in order to prevent any other country from claiming its shores. The natives resisted and over time, other sects tried to set up permanent establishments in Baja. While these settlements came and went, none truly stayed in Baja for the long haul. Even during the Mexican American War, the Americans marched on La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, only to see Baja as a desolate and useless land. They too turned around and left Baja to the native populations. With no overflowing treasure chests of gold and pearls, many explorers and cultures simply touched Baja as they passed through on their way to something they saw as more grand or significant.

*people born in Mexico from Spanish parents **people born in Spain

It was not until the 1940’s when plane travel became more prevalent that the world took a fresh look at Baja. It was then that access by air and sea proved easy and worthwhile to those who could afford it. The world also looked at the natural landscape of Baja with fresh appreciative eyes. Thoughts of gold and treasure turned to a deep appreciation for the true gold of the beautiful sunsets and undeniable treasure of the mountains, beaches and desert scenery. Those who could afford the short jaunt by air and sea were the newly rich and glamorous Hollywood sect. They saw Baja’s potential as a playground and ultimate vacation paradise. The first hotel opened in 1948, partly funded by some of Hollywood’s biggest stars. The fishing opportunities, untouched beaches, best weather on Earth, and seclusion from the outside world all made Baja the most exclusive destination in the world. The opening of the highway in 1974 gave the not-so-rich and famous the opportunity to bask in the natural luxury and wonder of Baja. Communities, such as Loreto, who had only utilized electricity and running water for just over a decade, suddenly found themselves the premier destination of anyone seeking paradise on Earth. The resorts, restaurants, golf courses, vacation homes, and year round homesteads that have cropped up since then have made Baja the most sought after locale for solitude, natural wonder, luxury, and that feeling of having found heaven on earth. Despite the success and growth of the tourist industry in Baja, this unique area manages to still hold onto its desolate rustic roots and sense of wild wonder that drew the legendary explorers of centuries past.

leads a mutiny and founds a settlement in the Bay of La Paz before being killed. 1539: Francisco de Ulloa explores both coasts. 1690s– first decade of the 18th century: Spanish settlement and colonization in lower Las Californias (Baja peninsula), the Spanish missions in Baja California established. 1773: The Spanish province of Las Californias is divided into Alta (“Upper”) and Baja (“Lower”) California. 1810-1821: Mexican War of Independence 1821: First Mexican Empire, Baja California peninsula becomes a Mexican territory. 1847:The Battle of La Paz and the Siege of La Paz occurs, as well as several other engagements. 1848: Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo cedes Alta California to the United States. As a U.S. territory it receives the California Gold Rush, causing increased maritime traffic along the peninsula. 1850: California admitted to U.S. statehood. 1853: William Walker, with 45 men, captures the capital city of La Paz and declares himself President of the Republic of Lower California. Mexico forces him to retreat a few months later. 1930-31: The Territory of Baja California is further divided into Northern and Southern territories (North Territory of Baja California & South Territory of Baja California). 1952: The North Territory of Baja California becomes the 29th State of Mexico, Baja California. The southern portion, below 28°N, remains a federally administered territory. 1973: The 1700 km (1060 miles) long TransPeninsular Highway (Mexican Federal Highway 1), is finished. It is the first paved road that spans the entire peninsula. The highway was built by the Mexican government to improve Baja’s economy and increase tourism. 1974: The South Territory of Baja California becomes the 31st state, Baja California Sur. 1989: Baja California elects Ernesto Ruffo Appel the first non PRI governor since 1929.

1532: Hernán Cortés sends three ships north along the coast of Mexico in search of the Island of California. The three ships disappear without a trace. 1533: Cortés sends a follow-up mission to search for the lost ships. Pilot Fortún Ximénez

Folkloric Dancer by Ron Sanders.

San Vicente- San Quintin, BC ...................64 MI / 103 KM San Quintin - El Rosario, BC .......................37 MI / 60 KM El Rosario - Catavina, BC .........................76 MI / 122 KM Catavina - Punta Prieta, BC .......................65 MI / 105 KM Punta Prieta - Bahia De Los Angeles, BC ....43 MI / 69 KM Bahia De los Angeles - Guerrero Negro, BCS.124 MI / 200 KM Guerrero Negro - San Ignacio, BCS ..........90 MI / 145 KM San ignacio - Santa Rosalia, BCS ...............46 MI / 74 KM Santa Rosalia - Mulege, BCS ......................39 MI / 63 KM Mulege - Loreto, BCS ...............................85 MI / 137 KM Loreto - La Paz, BCS ..............................223 MI / 359 KM La Paz - Todos Santos, BCS .......................48 MI / 77 KM Todos Santos - Cabo San Lucas, BCS ........48 MI / 77 KM La Paz - Los Barriles, BCS .......................65 MI / 105 KM Los Barriles - San Jose, BCS ......................48 MI / 77 KM San Jose - Cabo San Lucas, BCS ...............20 MI / 32 KM

Rosarito, BC...............................................12 MI / 19 KM Ensenada, BC...........................................68 MI / 109 KM San Vicente, BC..................................... 120 MI / 193 KM San Quintin, BC.......................................184 MI / 296 KM El Rosario, BC.........................................221 MI / 356 KM Catavina, BC...........................................297 MI / 475 KM Punta Prieta, BC......................................362 MI / 583 KM Bahia De Los Angeles, BC.......................405 MI / 652 KM Guerrero Negro, BCS...............................443 MI / 713 KM San Ignacio, BCS....................................533 MI / 858 KM Santa Rosalia, BCS.................................579 MI / 932 KM Mulege, BCS...........................................618 MI / 995 KM Loreto, BCS..........................................703 MI / 1131 KM La Paz, BCS..........................................926 MI / 1490 KM Todos Santos, BCS...............................974 MI / 1567 KM Los Barriles, BCS..................................991 MI / 1595 KM San Jose, BCS....................................1039 MI / 1672 KM Cabo San Lucas, BCS.........................1059 MI / 1704 KM

Landscape of the National Marine Park in Bahias de Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico. Photo by Jeri71.

Tijuana - Tecate, BC ...................................33 MI / 53 KM Tecate - Mexicali, BC ................................90 MI / 145 KM Ensenada - Tecate, BC..............................72 MI / 116 KM Mexicali - San Felipe, BC.........................121 MI / 195 KM Ensenada - San Felipe, BC.......................152 MI / 245 KM

Tijuana - Rosarito, BC.................................12 MI / 19 KM Rosarito - Ensenada, BC.............................56 MI / 90 KM Ensenada - San Vicente, BC .......................52 MI / 84 KM

Baja California Highway by Travis Farr.

need your US or Canadian passport and basic personal information about you and your travel: Full name, Nationality, Date of birth, Passport number, Purpose of trip, How you are entering Mexico: air, sea, land. The tourist corridors (border crossings) in Mexico are as follows: • Tijuana – Ensenada • Mexicali - San Felipe • Sonoyta – Puerto Penasco • Ciudad Juarez – Paquime • Piedras Negras – Santarosa • Reynosa – China – Presa el Cuchillo

Before you start your trip to the Baja Peninsula, you first have to get informed your options and what the requirements are required for a foreigner to enter Baja Mexico by sea, air, or land. This article will share the ways to travel into Baja and what is required to have a smooth and memorial trip.

The first essential item you need to bring along is your passport, otherwise you will not be allowed to cross the border. If you plan to travel with in the border zone – roughly 20 to 30 km (12.4 - 18.7 miles) from the border – for less than 72 hours, you will be able to travel with the passport only. However, if you intend to travel beyond the border zone or stay more than 72 hours, you must request a tourist card or an FMM from an immigration office (INM) found at the ports of entry into Mexico. The FMM allows you, and all that is traveling with you, to stay in Mexico for a maximum of 180 days. To obtain your FMM go to an immigration office at a border crossing, at border zone airports, airlines flying to Mexico, and travel agencies; as of March 2013 the cost is $295.00 pesos ($22-$25 dlls). You will

Are you bringing your boat in for less the 180 days then you do not need a Boat Permit. If you are leaving your baot in Baja you have to obtain a TIP boat permit. Pay and apply for you primit at cities customs office that you will be launching your boat. Depending on whether you bring the boat by land or sea, you will need: • Proof of citizenship • Passport • Vessel ownership title • Registration title for the vehicle (if the entry is by land) 30

Depending on the type of cruise, a passport is not absolutely necessary. With such varying rules regarding passports and also visa requirements, travelers are highly encouraged bring the following: • Proof of Citizenship - A governmentissued ID card along with a birth certificate or certificate of naturalization. • Valid Passport - Starting June 1, 2009, the government implemented a new scheme requiring traveler to hold a valid passport. For cruise passengers this requirement is enforced when a cruise begins and ends in a foreign port or if the cruise begins and ends in different ports. • Visas - In addition to a passport, cruise travelers may also require a visa for entry to countries that require visas, such as the FMM.

Traveling by bus in Baja California can be a positive experience, even though this part of Mexico is not as well covered as many parts of the mainland. Depending on the length of the trip, buses come with various comfort levels and relatively low prices. The main bus companies in Baja California are ABC (Autotransportes de la Baja California) and Aguila. To start your journey by bus in Baja California, the first step is to get to Tijuana. In Tijuana there are two bus terminals: one old and one new. The old terminal is used primarily by local bus lines, and it is located at Calle Comercio and Avenida Madero. The new terminal is at the corner of Lazaro Cardenas and Alamar Street. From Tijuana, there are several routes available to various cities. One option to get to Tijuana is to take the Mexicoach (619-428-9517) from San Ysidro. The shuttle travels every hour, seven days a week, and it costs $4 one way or $6 roundtrip. The schedule available on the website is as follows:

If you travel by plane, you will have the fee for the tourist card already included in the price of the plane ticket. Right before landing, you will be requested to fill out a tourist card. Once you reach the immigration officer, you will be asked to provide your passport and the tourist card. The immigration officer will stamp the passport with a tourist visa and take half of the tourist card. Keep the second half of the card as you will have to turn it into the airline when you come back. In order not to have any problems at the customs, avoid bringing plants, fruit or seeds. Also, no firearms without the necessary permits for hunting are allowed, and of course, no drugs. If you carry more than 20 packs of cigarettes per person or more than 2 liquor bottles, you may have to pay duty. Once you get all your documents in order, the last item on the list is the Baja Good Life Club membership card. The card allows all members of the club to enjoy discounts up to 75% for numerous businesses in Baja. If you don’t have a Baja Good Life Club membership card, get one today.

Tijuana – San Ysidro: Departs every hour Monday-Friday

5:30 AM – 6:00 PM

Saturday

6:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Sunday

7:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Greyhound (800-231-2222) also has various routes going to Tijuana. From Los Angeles to Tijuana, the ticket costs around $25, and from San Diego, it costs around $15. Here is the schedule for the trip from San Diego and Los Angeles to Tijuana: San Diego/Los Angeles – San Ysidro San Diego Departure Time Monday – Sunday

1:25 AM, 5:10 AM, 6:45 AM, 8:30 AM, 8:40 AM, 9:40 AM, 11:05 AM, 12:01 PM, 12:55 PM, 2:00 PM, 2:40 PM, 3:55 PM, 5:00 PM, 5:55 PM, 7:30 PM, 9:30 PM, 10:30 PM, 11:10 PM

Ruta - Route Tarifa - Fare Viaje Redondo - Round Trip Viaje Sencillo - One Way Trip Escalas - Number of Stops Equipaje - Baggage Salida – Exit Asiento - Seat Baños - Restrooms Ocupado - Occupied (for restrooms)

San Diego/Los Angeles – San Ysidro Los Angeles Departure Time Monday – Sunday

2:30 AM, 4:15 AM, 5:30 AM, 6:00 AM, 7:00 AM, 8:00 AM, 9:00 AM, 11:00 AM, 12:01 PM, 01:00 PM, 2:00 PM, 3:00 PM, 4:30 PM, 6:30 PM, 7:30 PM, 8:30 PM, 10:45 PM

Once you arrive in Tijuana, go to the terminal on Lazaro Cardenas and Alamar Street, and choose one of the routes provided by Transportes ABC / Baja Pac www.abc.com.mx or call (800-025-0222). Their destinations are in Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur from Tijuana to Cabo Including Mexicali and San Felipe on Highway 5. Aguila Buses also trave to Baja California Sur by bus; www.autotransportesaguila.net or call (800-824-8452). They offer transportation to the following destinations: Guerrero Negro, Loreto, Santa Rosalia, San Ignacio, Todos Santos, Mulege, La Paz, and Cabo San Lucas. On Aguila website, the section destined for prices and schedule is still under construction. When the trip is long, the bus company puts comfortable buses at the disposal of travelers. First-class buses are equipped with air-conditioning, restrooms and T.V. screens. The driver will make several stops at some bus terminals on the road, where you may find snacks, drinks, sandwiches, and souvenirs. However, some terminals are really basic, so travelers should take all necessary items in advance instead of relying on buying them on the road. Most employees who work for bus companies do not speak English. As a result, some knowledge of basic words would be highly recommended. Here is a small list with the most important words related to bus travelling: Taquilla - Ticket Booth Boleto – Ticket Comprar - Buy Horario - Schedule Hora de Salida - Leaving Time Hora de Llegada - Arrival Time Fecha de Salida: Departure Date Fecha de Regreso: Return Date Origen – Departure point Destino - Destination

Driving in Mexico might feel daunting at first, but with the right attitude, it can be an unforgettable experience. When it comes driving a car, truck, RV, or motorcycle in Baja California, it all comes down to mastering the do’s and don’ts. It is important to note that in Baja, even though you may take your vehicle to the end of the peninsula without a vehicle permit you must have a tourist card if you plan to travel south of Ensenada. Note: Vehicle import permits are needed if you travel outside of Baja or outside the permit-free zones of Sonora. The Transpeninsular Highway or Highway 1 is the main road of Baja California, and it covers a distance of 1,059 miles connecting Tijuana with Cabo San Lucas. It passes through most important cities, but also through small communities. Even though there are other routes available, people who drive through Baja are very likely to take the Highway 1 route. If you are venturing into Baja California for the first time, take the time to plan everything in advance. This guide will provide the most useful information related to driving in Baja.

1. 2.

Make sure your vehicle is in good working condition. Make sure you have all the necessary documentation; passport and tourist card (VISA’s) with you if you plan to go farther south than Ensenada for more than three days. Make sure your registration and drivers license is valid. Helpful tip: Copy your drivers licence front and back laminate it together and use this when traveling. If you lose it for whatever reason, you

4. 5.

6. 7.

• • • •

still have the original. Keep your vehicle registration in your car at all times. Purchase Mexican Insurance – some American insurance might cover travel to Mexico, but the Mexican authorities are not likely to accept the coverage. Get your Auto Insurance provided by the Baja Good Life Club with a great Members discount. Starting with January 2012, Baja California Norte introduced a new mandatory liability insurance. Up until 2012, it was enough to have Mexican insurance, but now you may receive a ticket unless you provide proof of insurance. To get your BGL member discounted Mexican auto insurance, please visit us at www.bglclub.com/ mexican-auto-insurance to receive a quote or call 1-888-552-2252. Keep the copy of the Mexican Insurance in your car. Fill your gas tank and an extra gas can; it could be helpful to you and others that might need help along the way. Know where the gas stations (Pemex) are located and get gas often. Helpful tip: Always pay for your gas with pesos to avoid any exchange problems. Ask the attendant for verde, verde is green in Spanish, to get regular gas and Rojo, red in Spanish, to get premium gas. If you want to use debit/credit cards during the trip, call your bank and let them know you will be in Baja Mexico. Know from San Felipe in Highway 5 or San Quintin on Highway 1 you will not have an ATM or bank until you get to Guerrero Negro about 259 miles (417 km).

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• • • • •

response – dial 066) Water and non-perishable snacks for the parts of the journey where you can’t find stores. Have change in pesos ready to pay road tolls. Couples bring a copy of your marriage Certificate. * Make a copy of your Drivers License front and back; have it laminated. Use this laminated copy when asked for your Drivers License.

Speed limits are provided in Km. (1 mile = 1.6 km.). A yellow traffic light means you have to STOP, not just to slow down. The fast lane (left lane) works most of the time as a passing lane; get back to the slow lane (right lane) once you have passed someone. Be aware, construction zones come up quite suddenly and may not be well marketed. Do not talk on your cell phone while driving, it is a Mexican law violation. Watch for animals, mainly cows, wandering on the street and highways. Don’t drive at night or drive slowly if there’s no way to avoid this. Drive slowly when unsure of what the speed limit is.

If incidents occur during a trip, seek assistance from the “Green Angels” (Ángeles Verdes in Spanish). This is a government sponsored group of men and women that are trained in first aid and vehicle mechanical repair. The Green Angles drive on the Baja and parts of Mainland Mexico in order to help people who need help. They usually carry gasoline or spare parts, and their service is free. The parts, however, will have to be paid by the driver, and a small tip is greatly appreciated.

This Book - The Baja Good Life Club Guidebook. An emergency road kit which would come in handy in case of a flat tire or mechanical problems. A Spanish dictionary if your Spanish knowledge is modest. A fully charged phone (assistance for tourists – dial 078, emergency

The checkpoints have the purpose of limiting the traffic of drugs or weapons. The procedure is brief, and it is carried out by young men in 33

military uniforms. As you approach the military checkpoint, one of the soldiers will probably signal you to stop. Once you pull over, they will ask (most probably in Spanish) where you come from and what your destination is. They may also ask you to step out of the vehicle for a routine verification. Typically, the soldiers will search the glove compartment, the seats, the trunk, and some of your bags. Be as friendly and quick as possible, and most importantly, don’t carry any firearms or any other items related to firearms, such as bullets. Carrying a firearm in Mexico is illegal unless you go hunting and have all necessary documentation related to this activity.

Officer if you are asked to pay a bride. • Don’t encourage the practice. Many policemen stop foreign plated cars because they see this as an opportunity. Instead of paying the money to the policeman, ask to be taken to the police station and pay the actual fine. This way your money will go to the community instead of the policeman’s pocket. Note: if you feel in danger never pull over in an private or hidden area. Pull over to a gas station (Pemex) or a restaurant parking lot. • Be as polite as possible. Being confrontational might cause the situation to go out of hand, and this is the last thing you need while you travel in a foreign country. • Take it easy and don’t seem in a hurry. You are in Baja and time is on your side while the policeman is on the clock. • Be particularly careful when you pass through Ciudad Constitucíon. Highway 1 passes right through it, and the road is littered with traffic signals and stop signs. The only way to avoid being pulled over to drive as carefully as possible and stop at every sign, though remember that some of them are difficult to see. Now you are ready to embark on your journey to Baja California. Keep your camera close because you will come across scenes worth saving and sharing. Go to Baja Good Life Club on Facebook (www.facebook.com/ bglclub) and share your Baja travel photos and stories.

When it comes to driving in Baja, there is a chance you may be stopped by a Mexican Federal Police Officer or City Police Officer for an alleged offence, which then the officer may ask you to pay a bribe. Paying a bribe (mordida in Spanish) you and the officer are now breaking Mexico law. Although this approach acknowledges that both individuals are part of the problem, you must not complain to the authorities if you already paid the bribe. So the best way to handle these uncomfortable situations in to not pay. Review the small list below of ways to avoid the problem from happening: Helpful tip: See the resource guide in the back of this Guidebook for a statement you should copy and give to the Mexican Police

Courtesy of BajaFerries.com

Ferry service between the Baja Peninsula and the mainland was minimal and even discontinued up until 1999 when Baja Ferry, a private company, took the initiative and set up a route between Santa Rosalia and Guaymas. The route between these towns is considerably less significant and reliable than the other ferry system which connects La Paz to the mainland. The ferry that departs from Santa Rosalia provides transportation for both people and vehicles. The trip is comfortable, and it lasts between 7 and 9 hours, depending on the weather conditions. People who intend to take their vehicle on the main land will have to own a vehicle permit and auto insurance. The best moment to obtain these documents is when you cross the border to Mexico. The schedule of the ferry from Santa Rosalia changes frequently, so the best option is to visit the website http://www.ferrysantarosalia.com or contact the company by phone 800-5055018 and email ventas@ferrysantarosalia. com. Here is the current schedule for the Santa Rosalia – Guaymas ferry. The tickets can be purchased by phone, from a travel agency, or from the ferry office in Santa Rosalia and Guaymas. Toll Free: 800-505-5018

Santa Rosalia, Baja California Sur, 23920. 615-152-1264, 615-152-1486 Guaymas: Ferry Terminal, Port Precinct, s/n, Punta Arena Colony, Guaymas, Sonora 85400. 622-222-0204, 622-222-8486 The prices are subject to change without notice, so here is the most recent list of prices for both people and vehicles. The original prices are in pesos. The exchange rate used is $1 = 13.61 pesos. Mt. = Metric Ton = 1000 kg. The ferries that connect La Paz with Mazatlan and Topolobampo are comfortable, and provide various amenities. Travelers can enjoy spending time in the restaurant and the bar. For additional comfort, there are several cabins available for rent. The cabins can accommodate up to 4 passengers, and they come with a private bath. With its speed of 22-23 knots, the ferry gets to Mazatlan in 12 hours and to Topolobampo in just 6 hours. The schedule for these two routes is quite reliable, but it is always useful to have a look at the website http://www.bajaferries. com/ before arranging any trip. Here is the schedule for both Topolobampo and Mazatlan: At this moment, travelers will need to pay the following prices for the La Paz – Topolobampo and La Paz – Mazatlan routes: The price for the private cabin comes in

Santa Rosalia: Transpeninsular Highway, Km. 196, Exterior Transportation Terminal, No. 3, Port Precinct, 34

addition to the fare that each passenger has to pay. The original prices are in pesos. The exchange rate used is $1 = 13.61 pesos. Mt. = Metric Ton = 1000 kg. People who are located in San Jose del Cabo and want to use the ferry will have to make a two hour trip to La Paz. Purchases can be made with a debit/credit card by contacting Baja Ferries Call Center or directly from the ferry terminals. According to your location, choose one of the following phone numbers and addresses: Toll Free - 800-337 7437 (only for Mexico)

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La Paz Ignacio Allende No. 1025, Col. Centro, C.P. 23000, La Paz, B.C.S. 612-123-6600 Topolobampo Instalaciones API y Muelle de Contenedores, C.P. 81370 668-862-1003 Mazatlan Ave. Emilio Barragán y Prolongación Carnaval S/N, Fracc. Playa Sur, C.P. 82040, Instalaciones API 669-985-0470 San Jose del Cabo Plaza Guaymitas, Carr. Transpeninsular (San José-La Paz), Local # 6. 624-142-4610

$2,843.16 Car and Trailer (up to 30 ft. / 9 mts. family use) - $5,236.24 Car and Trailer (30-55 ft. / 17 mts, family use) - $8,753.36 Bus (up to 40 ft. / 12 mts.) $7,727.92 Motorhome (32 ft. - 40 ft. / 10 a 12 mts.) - $7,963.40 Pick-up w/camper or Mini Motorhome - $6,132.92 Moto - $1,728.40

LA PAZ, BCS TO MAZATLAN, SINALOA Adult - $1,102.00 • Kids 3 to 11 - $551.00 • Cabin for 1 and / or 4 passengers with integrated bathroom - $787.64 extra • Cars and Pickups (up to 17 ft. / 5.40 mts, family use - $2,354.80 • Pickup, Van & Suburban (over 17 ft. / 5.40 mts, family use) - $3,290.92 • Car and Trailer (up to 30 ft. / 9 mts. family use) - $7,841.60 • Car and Trailer (30-55 ft. / 17 mts, family use) - $13,311.00 • Bus (up to 40 ft. / 12 mts.) $11,025.80 • Motorhome (32 ft. - 40 ft. / 10 a 12 mts.) - $15,468.60 • Pick-up w/camper or Mini Motorhome - $7,970.36 • Moto - $2,006.80

SANTA ROSALIA, BCS TO GUAYMAS, SONORA SALON • Adults - $840 • Kids 11 & Up - $420

LA PAZ, BCS - TOPOLOBAMPO, SINALOA • Adult - $897.84 • Kids 3 to 11 - $448.92 • Cabin for 1 and / or 4 passengers with integrated bathroom - $787.64 extra • Cars and Pickups (up to 17 ft. / 5.40 mts, family use - $2,004.48 • Pickup, Van & Suburban (over 17 ft. / 5.40 mts, family use) -

CABINS • Adult - $950 • Kids over 11 - $475 • Moto - $1420 • Car - (up to 17 ft. / 5.4 mts) - $3200 • Pickup - (up to 23 ft. / 17 mts) - $5650 • Trucks (up to 32 ft. / 10 mts) - $6800 • Trailer - (between 49-49 ft. / 15 - 18 mts) - $11530 36

John and Rachel Pack on the road to San Ignacio Lagoon during the 2012 Baja Walk by Rachel Pack.

If no one has ever said, “it’s a good thing Baja is beautiful, the weather perfect, and the people so welcoming, because it makes the trials of driving there all worth it”, they should have. Along with breathtaking mountains juxtaposed against ocean vistas and desert scenery, delightful yarns of life by the sea, fiestas, cantinas and friendly residents, there are tales of surviving the drive along Baja’s highways. So prevalent are harrowing “road” stories that websites on Baja travel routinely carry sections devoted to driving advice. Tourists and residents often post accounts of “roadway adventures”, warning others to drive slowly and carefully, to carry food and water (or beer) for long stopovers awaiting assistance or repairs, and to refrain from driving at night. Federal Highway One (La Carretera Transpeninsular) opened up the length of Baja to drivers and tourists in 1973. Running over one thousand miles from the U.S. border at Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas, Highway One offers magnificent scenery to tourists who want more of this picturesque region than a quick flight into Cabo can provide. Highway One follows the Pacific coast southward to Guerrero Negro, where it begins a leisurely eastward crossing toward the Sea of Cortez and Santa Rosalia. From there, the highway hugs the eastern coast, providing

spectacular views of the mountains on the west, moves inland and down to the tip of the peninsula, ending at Cabo San Lucas. Federal Highway 5, connecting San Felipe with Mexicali, has an even older, more picturesque history. Begun in 1946, it promised new avenues for commerce, local growth, and faster travel in this sparsely-settled region. In those days, it was easier and faster to go by boat between San Felipe and coastal towns to the south. Everything that came in from outside the small communities—from manufactured goods to building supplies to foodstuffs— came at a heavy price. Construction on Highway 5 began at Reforma Avenue in Mexicali near the old Farmers and Fishermen’s Monument. Local crews moved with each completed stage across the desert landscape toward San Felipe. The road, the camps, and the men experienced the many faces of Baja as they moved from agricultural colonies in the valleys, to the mountainous home of the Cucapa peoples, to stretches of empty desert, and more than four years later, to the Sea of Cortez coast and the small fishing village of San Felipe. The most difficult portion was about 62 km from Mexicali, by the mountains, where they had to use dynamite. For four months it was hard to notice any progress, the work went so slowly. It was also a study in loneliness and isolation. 37

learn unspoken “rules of the road”. For example, a flashing left turn signal may mean a driver is turning left, but it may also mean that it is safe to pass. A driver doesn’t want to mistake one intention for the other. Flashing lights from an approaching vehicle indicate that a particularly narrow area is coming up, where one vehicle will have to pull aside in order for the other to have enough room to pass. Local custom dictates that the first vehicle to signal with flashing lights proceeds first. The Mexican government has been hard at work on their comprehensive road improvement plan (see “Paving the Way for Growth and Tourism”) to make travelling from the U.S. border through Baja easier, faster, and more convenient. With over 1.7 billion pesos (170 million dollars) allocated, the Mexican government has ambitious plans to improve, extend, and repair the roads throughout Baja. Planned commercial truck routes will streamline border crossings, by-pass city traffic, and simplify commercial transport which is the supply line to residents and industries of Baja. The Mexican government has pledged millions of dollars for the improvement of infrastructure, including expansion of the airport and marina. Work has begun to turn Federal Highway 5 into a four-lane highway and at the time of this writing, is completed between the Ensenada exchange and San Felipe and continues south past Puertecitos to within 8 miles of Gonzaga Bay. The road was projected to be completed in 2011, but looks like at least 2013 before it reaches Highway 1, forever joining in an ever-growing network of modern highways throughout Baja. The Fondo Nacional de Fomento Al Turismo (FONATUR), the government agency responsible for the development of tourism, and the Secretary of Tourism (SECTUR), foresee with the new highways that many communities bordering the Sea of Cortez will be goldmines for tourism related to fishing, boating, nature study, and water sports. Like the old Bob Hope and Bing Crosby “Road To…” movies, exciting adventures await those with the spirit to hit the road in Baja.

After trucks dumped the last load of building material near the beach at San Felipe where El Malecon is today, the workers went home or on to other jobs. Today, for Americans and Canadians accustomed to superhighway systems, Mexican highways today can be a shock. They often resemble two-lane rural roads in “Grapes of Wrath” America: narrow, idiosyncratically marked, unlit at night, and occasionally obstructed by slow-moving equipment, construction and repairs, and wandering livestock. Road improvements and construction appear disorganized with notification of road hazards either ambiguous, difficult to see, or absent. Potholes loom large and seemingly every few feet. They are masterfully efficient destroyers of even the most well constructed tire. Ambiguity is common among Baja drivers. They start out warning others not to attempt the trip but pepper their stories with such exciting adventures along the way that, by the end, everyone is convinced that the hearty, wellstocked traveler, armed with the right attitude, can not only make the trip but find it enjoyable. These same personal accounts routinely contain an important and encouraging message: help is usually as close as the next vehicle, with friendly locals much more eager to help stranded motorists than in the U.S. A rescue squad run by the Ministry of Tourism, the “Green Angels” are a radio-dispatched fleet of trucks that operate along Baja’s highways ready to arrange towing, tire repair, or other services as needed. That they operate daily from dawn until sunset is a tribute to both Mexican hospitality and a realistic understanding of Baja’s roads. Military checkpoints, while not designed to aid drivers, offer some security and contact with “official” Mexico. Several checkpoints are sprinkled across the Baja highways to control gun and drug trafficking. Disconcerting at first glance to Americans unaccustomed to gun-toting, uniformed young men manning checkpoints, seasoned Baja travelers agree there is nothing to worry about for those who observe Mexican laws. Cooperation and courtesy avoids checkpoint problems. Driving in Baja also means drivers should 38

Richard Lawrence going for a Buggy Ride by Rachel Pack.

Here are some of the things you will need: Proof of citizenship (passport or birth certificate); proof of immigration status, i.e. visa such as FMM, FM2, FM3; proof of vehicle ownership, such as pink slip, current registration, lease agreement or rental agreement if it is a rented vehicle. Yes, even a rental car must be temporarily imported if it is driven outside the exempt areas. These documents must all be in the name of the person importing the vehicle. If it is a company car, you must have documentation that certifies you work for the company and you have permission to use the vehicle in Mexico. You’ll need a valid driver’s license issued outside Mexico. You must acquire a permit from the Mexican customs office at the border crossing. They will charge you a US$27.00 certificate fee (non-refundable) and you must post a bond deposit of up to $400.00, depending on the model year of your vehicle. Your bond deposit will be returned to you when you return the certificate to Mexican customs. You may get the permit from certain designated Consulates of Mexico for an additional fee of around US$35.00. The permit is valid for a period of up to 180 days (6 months). Always carry the importation document with you. Do not leave it in the vehicle. It will be invaluable if something happens to your vehicle.

Is My Car Legal In Mexico? Within the Border Zone (usually 20 kilometers south of the border) or the Free Trade Zone (includes the entire Baja peninsula and the Sonora Free Trade Zone), the answer is yes. However, you should acquire Mexican driver insurance, because Mexico does not recognized policies written in the U.S., even if they have Mexico coverage clauses. If you are in an accident and do not have Mexican insurance, your car will be confiscated, and you could go to jail until the authorities decide how to handle the situation. There are also strict regulations regarding just who can drive a vehicle not registered in Mexico. The registered owner, of course, and his or her spouse or adult children who have the same immigration status are eligible drivers. If the owner is in the vehicle, persons other than those just mentioned may also drive. If an unauthorized person is caught driving your vehicle, it will be confiscated and good luck getting it back. What I have found out, the hard way, is that if you follow the rules, you can pretty much remain trouble free in Mexico. Ignorance of the law is no defense. I have tried that one to no avail. If you plan to travel outside of the “exempt areas”, you must temporarily import your vehicle. There is a specific process involved and it will cost you some money, but fail to do it and you expose yourself to some major headaches. 39

Riveria de Mar RV Park in Loreto BCS. Photo By Rachel Pack.

Traveling to Baja in an RV is the way to go! Here our Top 10 things to help to stay safe during your travels, it’s all common sense and should be use when you are traveling anywhere in the world. 1. Chart your trip – Search of RV parks on the club directory (www.bajagoodlifeclub.com) and get your maps out to chart your course. Share your trip plans with your friends and family and blog your adventures (or keep a diary), so all can be apart of your fun. 2. Buy a basic Spanish phrase book, a copy of the Club Spanish book, or the back of your club member guidebook and start learning how to say important phrases that will help you through your travels. Like: where is the gas station?/¿Dónde está la gasolinera?; where is the bathroom?/¿Dónde está el baño?; how far is the next town?/¿Hasta qué punto es el próximo pueblo?. There are many others…just write down a few phases and practice. 3. Camp with others - camping solo on a

deserted beach can set you up to be a victim, there is safety and fun in numbers. 4. Lock up and draw your curtains – keeping your valuables safe by locking all your doors and windows; and drop your blinds or curtains when you go out to explore. You do not want to draw attention to your items. 5. Keep your valuables in a safe place – a locked box or stash box that is not in a visible location to keep extra money, jewelry, personal documents. Make copies of your passports, driver license and visa documents and anything you would like to keep safe. If you are directed into secondary inspection by U.S. Customs officers, you should declare the existence of your secret box and show the contents. 6. Stop in cities or small towns - you will find the coolest things and see the most interesting sites in the small towns/pueblos and cities/ ciudades along your travels. Stop at the churches, museums, graveyards, taco stands or local fruit stands and experience all of Baja. 40

gallon container. Step 2 - Fill the remainder of the gallon container with hot water. Step 3 - Put a lid on the container and set it aside, until needed. Be sure that you do not inhale the ingredients when you are working with them. When you need to add some holding tank deodorizer to your holding tank just put in two cups of the mixture in the holding tank.

7. Don’t drive at night – Semi trucks travel mostly at night and if you drive during the day you’ll have fewer to deal with on narrow or blind corners. If you happen to be stuck driving in the dark, because you didn’t make your next planned destination, you should consider stopping off the highway next to a house or market. Introduce yourself and your traveling party to the business owner or resident and explain that you would like to park for the night…Spanish: Tenemos que descansar hasta mañana. ¿Se puede aparcar aquí? The Mexican people are very welcoming and will normally help you in any way they can. 8. Always be aware of livestock – in Baja livestock are normally left to roam wherever they can find food and this is sometimes near a well traveled road which creates a large problem around the highways. Drive carefully when you see a group of livestock use your emergency flashers to let the other travelers on the road to “take caution” when driving. 9. Buy Mexican Auto Insurance - Mexican auto insurance is a must. If you have an accident Mexican authorities will not accept foreign auto insurance policies. www.bajagoodlifeclub. com for club member insurance discount information. 10. Pack an emergency road kit – jumper cables, tow chain, small shovel, 12vot air pump, caution cones, oil, and funnel. If you think of other things you might need, then place them in an old milk crate so you have easy access when needed. Get out there and see Baja now! The Baja today will not be the same Baja in a few years. See all the places that have not been touched by progress. Just be smart through your travels and you will have a great time. Get to exploring and see what Baja California has to offer!

Looking for a simple way to attract away from you and then kill flies? Try this simple solution. Allow a couple of days for the mixture to really take effect. The more flies attracted and killed, the more flies it attracts. Step 1 - Mix 3 cups of water, 1/3 cup of sugar, 1/4 cup of white vinegar Mix all ingredients together until the sugar is completely dissolved. Step 2 - Make you trap. You can use recycle many different things to make your trap; an empty coffee can with a plastic lid, or a glass jar and with lid. You will also need a small piece of plastic wrap. Cut a 2-3” hole in the lip of your container. Now place the plastic wrap over the container opening and then screw your lid into place. You should now have a sealed container with a 2-3” plastic area in the center. Step 3 - Just poke some holes in the plastic wrap that appears in the 2-3” inch area. Make the holes large enough that the flies can crawl in. Now just place your new trap outside in the sun, where flies are a problem. The flies will crawl into your trap and either drown in the mixture or they can’t find their way out.

If you’re more interested in keeping the bug off your plants and growing veggies, then you are in killing them, then try this simple homemade bug repellent. Step 1 - Mix 1 shot of anti-bacterial soap (any Fabuloso scent will work), 1 shot liquid cooking oil, 1 shot vinegar, and 1 shot alcohol. Step 2 - Pour the ingredients into a recycled/ standard spray bottle with water; shake and start shooting some bugs.

Need a simply homemade deodorizer for your holding tanks, consider this simple mixture of items you can get almost anywhere. Step 1- Mix 1 cup color safe bleach,1/2 cup of Pinesol type cleaner and 3 tablespoons of household ammonia and put them into a 41

because of an ample supply of underground water funneled down from the mountains. Air from the Pacific Ocean is pushed up the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range and is met with hotter air from the Sea of Cortez. This results in frequent mountain rain storms that persist through the summer and fall. Consequently, these storms release great deal of rainfall that fills underground rivers and aquifers throughout the Todos Santos and Pescadero basin. It is a common held belief among many of the locals that there is more water in Pescadero and Todos Santos than Cabo San Lucas where desalination plants are being developed in order to keep up with the demand of the booming tourist mecca. Surf breaks punctuate the length of the peninsula’s Pacific coast. Two of the best are located in Pescadero. Los Cerritos and San Pedrito. Both beaches have right breaks. Los Cerritos is one of the best for beginner and intermediate surfers. San Pedrito is considered an advanced surfer’s break because of its rocky bottom and strong currents. The village proper has a few accommodations, restaurants and bars, several grocery stores and gas station. The huerta or beach area has one hotel plus a scattering of bungalows and casitas that can be rented by the night. There is a surf camp in km64 which contains accommodation (casitas) and a pool. This is perfect if you are just stopping off. Los Cerritos, while it is known as a good beach for beginners, the rip towards the rock has killed a few people, so watch out.

Pescadero is a small village in the municipality of La Paz in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur. It is located at km 64 on Federal Highway 19 on the Pacific Ocean about 8 kilometers South of Todos Santos which is about a one hour drive north of Cabo San Lucas. The Mexican census of 2010 reported a population of 2,338 inhabitants. The climate in Pescadero is one of the finest of all of Baja California Sur. It is heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean which moderates the temperatures year round. In the summer, the ocean breezes keep the heat at manageable levels. Winter, generally the months of March through May, is marked by warm days and cooler temperatures at night. Pescadero is much like an oasis in the desert. The pueblo (village) is bordered by the Sierra de la Laguna mountains to the East and the Pacific Ocean to the West. In the huerta area of Pescadero (the farm land area,) palmlined roads and farms co-exist with low-density private residences. A common sight in the huerta are the cherry tomato and basil fields. Most of these crops are grown for exportation and end up in specialty markets and gourmet grocery stores in the United States. Fortunately, some of the produce finds its way into the road-side produce stands. Commercial farming in Pescadero flourishes 42

Rachel Pack, Coco, John Pack, & Raine Fisher at Coco’s Conner By Christine Wood.

Mexican Federal Highway (carretera federal) 5 follows the northeast length of the state of Baja California from the US-Mexico border in Mexicali at the northern end to San Felipe in the south. The highway is entirely inside the municipality of Mexicali. However, a state highway from San Felipe to Puertecitos (municipality of Ensenada) is usually considered part of the federal highway. From San Felipe to the south, the road follows the seacoast of the Gulf of California.

and ample shoulders, until it ends in San Felipe. The new highway segments being constructed from San Felipe to the north and Mexicali to the south are raised, with drainage culverts passing underneath the highway. These have replaced the dips, or fords (vados) that formerly provided drainage across the highway. The resulting highway is a much higher quality road. The interchange with highway three has been completed, so that no turns across traffic are required.

The road begins in the border city of Mexicali at the western border crossing. It has four lanes from there to about km 80. At this point it becomes a two-lane highway (with little or no shoulder in most areas) until km 160, about 18 km (11 mi) south of the junction with Mexican Federal Highway 3, and about 40 km (24 mi) north of San Felipe. From there, the highway is a broad, divided, four-lane highway with a median 43

Mexicali City.

Chinese pagoda was built in 1995 commemorating a 1991 friendship agreement of intimacy between Mexicali and Nanjing, China. By Toni Smith.

time has progressed however, its economy has gradually gone from being agriculturally based to industrially based. Companies such as Mitsubishi, Honeywell, Nestle, Coca Cola and Goodrich Corporation have built plants in the city and its metropolitan area. Silicon Border is located here as well; a large industrial park that is a high tech manufacturing area. Its goal is to become a global center for semiconductor manufacturing. Mexicali’s proximity to the United States has made the city a popular tourist destination with Americans from Arizona, California, and Nevada. The city is a well known sports city with many ball sports being popular in the region. Founded on March 14, 1903, Mexicali is situated on the U.S.-Mexico border adjacent to its sister city Calexico, California with which it forms a metropolitan region, Calexico-Mexicali. Mexicali also has the distinction of being the northernmost city in Latin America.

Mexicali (Spanish: [mexiˈkali]) is the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California, seat of the Municipality of Mexicali, and 2nd largest city in Baja California. The City of Mexicali has a population of 689,775, according to the 2010 census, while the population of the entire metropolitan area (as well the municipality) reaches 936,826. The city maintains a highly educated and skilled populace. Its standard of living is one of the highest in Mexico. As the city has modernized and become a cosmopolitan and international center in a desert region, it has maintained a sizable middle class and an even larger upper class In Mexico, it is recognized for its substantial investment in education as well as its low unemployment levels. Mexicali’s economy was historically based on agricultural products, and to this day it remains a large sector of the economy. As

Mexicali Border Region.

Mexicali South.

The Spanish arrived in the area after crossing the Sonora Desert’s “Camino del Diablo” or Devil’s Road. This led to the evangelization of the area and also the population reduction of the native peoples. Today, indigenous Cocopah 45

Initially the area belonged to the municipality of Ensenada. The town of Mexicali was officially created on 14 March 1903 when Manuel Vizcarra was named as the town’s first authority and assistant judge (juez auxiliar). Mayor Baltazar Aviléz declared the municipality of Mexicali on November 4, 1914 and called for elections to create the first ayuntamiento or district council, which was then headed by Francisco L. Montejano. Another U.S. land development company set out to do the same with the nearby Valley of Mexicali. Led by Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler, the company controlled 800,000 hectares of land in northern Baja California by 1905 and began to construct the irrigation system for this valley. However, instead of using Mexican labor to dig the ditches, Chandler brought in thousands of Chinese laborers. Mexicali became culturally more Chinese than Mexican. In the 20th century, the Colorado Riverland Company was dedicated to renting land here to farmers; however, these farmers were almost always foreigners, such as Chinese, East Indians and Japanese. The Mexicans were employed only as seasonal labor. This situation led to the agrarian conflict known as the “Asalto a las Tierras” (Assault on the Lands) in 1937. Agricultural production continued to increase during the 20th century. Cotton became the most important crop and with it developed the textile industry. In the early 1950s, the Mexicali Valley became the biggest cotton-producing zone in the whole country and in the 1960s, production reached more than half a million parcels a year. Currently, the valley still is one of Mexico’s most productive agricultural regions, mostly producing wheat, cotton and vegetables. The city of Mexicali is one of Mexico’s most important exporter of asparagus, broccoli, carrots, green onions, lettuce, peas, peppers, radishes and tomatoes to the world. The government of the municipality was reorganized when the Baja California territory became the 29th state in 1953

people still inhabit a small governmentprotected corner of the delta near the junction of the Hardy and Colorado rivers. These people mostly work on agricultural ejidos or fish the rivers, although many have migrated to Mexicali. The early European presence in this area was limited to the Jesuits, who left in the 1780s. After this, the Spanish and later the Mexicans had little to do with the northeastern corner of the Baja California peninsula, perceiving it as an untamable, flood-prone desert delta. In the mid-19th century, a geologist working for the Southern Pacific Railroad came to the delta area, discovering what the native Yumans had known for centuries: that the thick river sediment deposits made the area prime farming land. These sediments extended far to the west of the river itself, accumulating in a shallow basin below the Sierra de Cucapá. However, from this time period until the 1880s, the area was almost completely unpopulated, mostly due to its climate. In 1888, the federal government granted a large part of northern Baja state, including Mexicali, to Guillermo Andrade, with the purpose of colonizing the area on the recently-created border with the United States. However, around 1900, the only area with any real population, aside from the Cocopah, were concentrated in Los Algodones, to the east of Mexicali. In 1900, the U.S.-based California Development Company received permission from the Díaz government to cut a canal through the delta’s Arroyo Alamo, to link the dry basin with the Colorado River. To attract farmers to the area, the developers named it “The Imperial Valley”. In 1903, the first 500 farmers arrived; by late 1904, 405 km² (100,000 acres) of valley were irrigated, with 10,000 people settled on the land harvesting cotton, fruits, and vegetables. The concentration of small housing units that straddled the border was called Calexico on the U.S. side, Mexicali on the Mexican side. The Mexican side was named Mexicali (a portmanteau composed of “Mexico” and “California”) by Coronel Agustín Sanginéz.

Today Mexicali is an important center for industrial production in the automotive, aerospace, telecommunications, metallurgical, 46

and health services as well as manufacturing and exporting products to various countries. The 2010 Baja California earthquake was an earthquake occurred at 15:40:40 local time (UTC-8), Sunday, April 4, 2010, which reached a magnitude of 7.2. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, the epicenter of the quake struck 60 km south-southeast of Mexicali. The quake was felt strongly in the northern regions of Baja California and the United States-Mexico border, and was also felt in western cities such as Tijuana, San Diego, Los Angeles and parts of Arizona.

some areas are swollen with poor people with no roots in the city, who inhabit shantytowns, mainly in the outskirts of the city. Apart from these poor migrants, Mexicali is one of the wealthiest cities in Mexico. Some areas of the city reflect the significant number of wealthy people who inhabit the city, in areas such as San Pedro, Villafontana, and Col Nueva. Mexicali’s growing reputation as a cosmopolitan city is justified. Not only is the city home to many people who have migrated from within the same country, as well as some native Mexican Indians, but it boasts an important amount of Asian residents (especially Chinese), as well as Americans, Europeans, and South Americans. Informally, Mexicali natives are known as “Cachanillas” (similar demonyms include “Chilango” for those from Mexico City). Mexicali is known mainly as a business and industry town, but has an excellent reputation for hospitality and tourism in the country. Mexicali is known as “the city that captured the sun”. Its residents frequently joke regarding its extreme heat during the summer, reaching record desert temperatures. Mexicali’s primary newspapers are La Voz de la Frontera and La Cronica de Baja California. It is served by three television stations (Televisa [with 4 analog and 2 digital signals], TV Azteca [2 analog and 2 digital signals] and Canal Once) along with the television stations in the United States in the Imperial County market (NBC, CBS, FOX, ABC, CW, MNTV, Univision, Telemundo, and Telefutura). While the Mexican peso is the legal currency, US dollars are widely accepted. Mexicali observes daylight savings time (DST) and is in the Pacific Time Zone the same way as the USA.

The Mexicali Valley is one of the largest and most fertile valleys in Mexico. The Valley has over fifty different crops and is similar to the Imperial Valley in its agricultural production. National and international industries have invested in Mexicali and surrounding cities to take advantage of its fiscal opportunities. The Valley’s resources puts the region above other similar areas as its abundance of natural resources are the largest in North America. The Mexicali Valley is a primary source of water for the region, having the largest irrigation district in Mexico.

Economically, a growing middle class disposable income has fueled Mexicali’s transformation into a modern city with a vibrant culture, a characteristic that has attracted many national and international businesses which had largely ignored the city before and had turned to Tijuana. Aside from the middle class, in Mexicali you can expect to find areas filled with very rich people. Mexicali is considered among the most prosperous cities in Mexico, although US tourists can observe the level of poverty in rural villages surrounding the modern, uppermiddle class enclave of Mexicali proper. The North American Free Trade Agreement of 1994 that eliminated most trade restrictions between the two nations offers Mexicali an economic boom in the next decade. Mexicali is a transit point for illegal immigration into the United States, as well as a common destination for any illegal Mexican immigrants deported from the West Coast of the United States. As such,

Mexicali has one of the largest Chinese communities in Mexico. Historically, it has been a predominantly Chinese town and has even hosted the North American headquarters of the Kuomintang (KMT) at one point. Many old-time Chinese-Mexican natives of Mexicali have since intermarried with the local mestizos or emigrated to the United States. Tijuana, Ensenada, San Luis Rio Colorado, Culiacán, Ciudad Juárez, Monterrey, Guadalajara, Mexico 47

City, and Tapachula also have sizable Chinese communities. Although Mexicali has had a history of Chinese immigration for about 100 years, the restaurant workers tend to be recent immigrants from Guangdong, mainland China, who are multilingual in Taishanese (a distinct dialect of the Cantonese language), Mandarin, and Spanish. Nearly all of them are from just two cities in Guangdong, namely Taishan and Kaiping, with a small minority from neighboring Enping, Zhongshan, and Hong Kong. The historic Chinese neighborhood is known as La Chinesca, centered on Avenida Benito Juárez, about several hundred feet to the south of the Calexico point of entry.

Mexicali’s International Airport, “General Rodolfo Sánchez Taboada”, is located 20 km east of the city and offers services to all types of flights, private and commercial. There are daily flights out of the Airport to other major cities in México. In addition, Mexicali has access to the Imperial Valley Airport, 15 miles North across the border from Mexicali which operates commercial flights to different cities in the United States.

Taxis are abundant in the city. You may either call for a site taxi (taxi de sitio) which are called beforehand and they can take you where you ask, or route taxis (taxi de ruta), which, like buses, have specific routes which they take. There are also multiple public buses, which can range from old school refurbished school buses with no air circulation to brand new metro buses with air conditioning and television screens, which are more expensive.

Mexicali is accessible from the United States through Calexico on Highway 111 (from El Centro and points north) and Highway 98 East (Yuma) and West (San Diego) via I-8. Either park at the border and continue on foot or you drive into Mexico. Driving from the US to Mexico usually requires no stopping. Driving across the border from Mexico to the US may involve a long wait, especially during evening rush hour or on holiday weekends. Mexican insurance is required, which should be bought before your trip. Mexicali has two border crossings, Mexicali East (Newer) and Mexicali West (Traditional), both of which have a SENTRI lane. Mexicali is the northern terminus for Mexican Highway 5 to San Felipe. Mexicali can also be reached from Tijuana and Tecate on Mex-2. Though much of this highway is a toll road (the “Libramiento” aka Autopista), it is more scenic but will take longer than I-8 and is considered more hazardous, especially the “Rumorosa Grade”. The toll either to or from Tijuana is around $14.

The Asociacón China de Mexicali, located on Avenida Benito Juárez near the intersection with Altamirano, is one of Mexicali’s primary and oldest Chinese associations. Upstairs, there are portraits of dozens of Chinese immigrants who have lived in Mexicali. There are also murals celebrating Mexicali’s Chinese heritage, dragon costumes for use during festivals, and numerous classrooms. It is often locked and closed during weekdays, but usually open on weekend mornings. Catedral de Ntra. Sra. de Guadalupe on Bulevar Morelos is Mexicali’s oldest cathedral. Museums Museo Interactivo Sol del Niño - Scientific and Interactive Museum fun for children and adults. Interactive Science, Technology, Arts and Environment Center. Plaza de Toros Calafia - Bullring with frequent bullfights with toreros from around Latin America and Spain. Bosque y Zoologico de la Ciudad - Mexicali’s biggest park along with its city zoo.

Many people drive to the border, park on the US side, and walk across. There are many lots available for this, which charge $4-$9 a day. While there are many taxis waiting to take you across, it’s only about a five minute walk; follow the signs across. 48

Parque Vicente Guerrero - Mexicali’s second biggest park with lake. Centro Estatal de las Artes - State Art Center: see art exhibitions, musical concertos and recitals among other things. Instituto Municipal de Arte y Cultura - City Art Center: see art exhibitions, musical concertos and recitals among other things. Teatro del Estado - The states theater with many shows throughout the year. UABC Museo - The University of Baja California’s Museum with exhibits throughout the year. Casa de la Cultura - Mexicali’s Culture House, with interactive art workshops and exhibitions. Salon de la Fama - Mexicali’s Hall of Fame, with notable figures from throughout the city and state. Bellas Artes - Where Mexicali’s fine arts groups are located. Juventud 2000 Sport Center - Mexicali’s newest and most modern park.

“Diablito” (Winter Solstice). This place is also excellent for hiking, a photography expedition, and spotting a variety of flora and fauna. Hardy River Everything necessary for freshwater fishing and small game hunting, as well as being the ideal site for kayaking in tranquil waters, hiking, panoramic photography, and birdwatching. Ideal for families, groups or individuals who enjoy the scenic outdoors. Arroyo Hondo Pool, kiddy pool, sand volleyball court, basketball court, soccer field, children’s playground, barbeque pits. Restaurant- bar with billiards, karaoke, space for events; bathrooms with showers. Lifeguard, security. Capacity for 1,500 persons. Open year round. Sand Dunes Beautiful sand dunes that are the ideal place for riding motorcycles, ATVS, and sand buggy’s. Laguna Salada and La Rumorosa The highway coming down into the Mexicali Valley is an impressive drive. It is a steep 3000 ft drop on a new and well-designed highway. Two places unique in all the world that offer spectacular panoramas of natural beauty. Besides being ideal places for flying on a delta winged or a hang glider, cycling and off-road racing are also popular here. San Felipe San Felipe is the closet beach to Mexicali, offering access to other beaches like Puertecitos and sites of extraordinary beauty, including the unique Valley of the Giants, where huge and imposing Sahuaro (saguaro) cactus greet all visitors and it has shops, restaurants, and bars. Algodones During the winter season (October thru March), this picturesque small town (population 14,000) greets a considerable number of visitors known as “Snow birds”, who come from the northern United States and Canada. Los Algodones is known for its ample variety of shops, Mexican folk art, laboratories and excellent medical and dental services which constitute the town’s main attraction.

Centro Cívico - Home to Baja California’s state legislature, governor’s palace, and state supreme court, as well as the Mexicali city hall (ayuntamiento). Brief tours of the Baja California legislature’s chambers are available upon request (ask for the public/media relations spokesperson to give you a tour). Morelos Dam You can admire the town and its surroundings from this beautiful natural setting. The dam was inaugurated on September 23, 1950 and has a capacity of 230 cubic meters/sec and has a height of 42.10 meters and covers 175,000 acres. Sierra de Juarez Cañón Tajo, crowned by the “Trono Blanco”—the highest monolith in Mexico with a height of 1970 feet - provides majestic panoramic views and is visited by premiere mountaineers from around the world. It is ideal for rock-climbing, hiking, rappelling, canoeing, and panoramic photography. There are also the Laguna Hanson and the Cañón de Llanos, sites that offer a place for a variety of activities including kayaking, hiking, camping, mountain biking, rock climbing, and spelunking. Vallecitos Here the past meets the present in an extensive display of prehistoric rock carvings and cave paintings, such as the famous

Nightclubs in Mexicali tend to open and close throughout the year due to them becoming duds. Therefore, this list may not be the most updated of the best light life clubs. 49

hole course that features huge fairways, adorned by water hazards and sand traps that lead to excellent, quick greens, themselves often surrounded by more water and sand traps. During the year, major tournaments are held here, such as the Cotton Tournament in March, the City of Mexicali and Maquiladora Tournament’s in April, the Father and Son Tournament in June, as well as the Bishops’s and IAMSA Tournament’s in November. Racing Adrenaline junkies wont want to miss the tremendously entertaining off-road ATV races. Displaying their skills, experienced drivers race their machines at high speeds, roaring across the terrain, offering a grand spectacle for the crowds. Hunting An extensive variety of birds and mammals such as the White Winged Dove, Huilota Dove, Cerceta, Black Branta, Goose, Pheasant, Duck, Quail, Black Tail Hare, Rabbit, Coyote, Wild Cat and Puma will put the skill of any hunter to the test. In the Valle de Mexicali, the season begins at the end of August and ends in February. Fishing Freshwater: The municipality offers exciting places for fishing adventures. In addition to 1550 miles of canals, there are prime spots like Laguna Bogard, Rio Hardy, El Caimán, la Ciénega de Santa Clara, and el Bosque de la Ciudad, where you can participate in important tournaments all year long. A few of the species you will find while fishing are Lobina, Bagre, Carpa, and Tilapia. Saltwater: The coastline of San Felipe and spots like Roca Consag, Barco Hundido, Los Carros, Punta Estrella and Percebú, are well known fishig areas in addition to fishing out on the open sea. Catch-andrelease tournaments allow fishing for shallowwater species as well as trophy-fish like Pez Vela, Marlin Dorado, and Jurel, among others.

Boom Boom Blu Red Lion Uni Irish Pub La Salita Los Barriles Velvet The following venues are located around the intersection of México & Reforma, near the main cathedral. La Conga - Live norteño bands playing mostly narcocorridos Miau Miau - Table dancing Porkys Bol Bol Boliche - 21st century bowling with a club feel. Caliente Sport Book Cinepolis Movie Theaters (Centro Civico, San Pedro, Galerias, Nuevo Mexicali) Cinemark Movie Theater Cinemastar Movie Theater IMAX Theater Live Mexican music (norteño and mariachi) can be requested from bands for hire at the Plaza Mariachi on Avenida Zuazua, located in the southern part of the La Chinesca area. Norteño bands (2-4 people, consisting of at least an accordion and bajo sexto) generally charge 50 pesos per song. Most of the musicians are recent migrants from Los Mochis and Culiacán in the north-central coastal state of Sinaloa. A banda sinaloense group can be found at the intersection of Zuazua & Altamirano during most evenings. All of the groups can play narcocorridos (drug ballads) as well as famous rancheras by Ramón Ayala. Musicales y Joyeria “Iris” - José Gerardo Zamora. Av. Reforma #406 Zona Centro Mexicali B.C. Tel. (686) 552-6895. Banda de Música Regional de Guamúchil Sinaloa - Victor Cervantes. Zuazua y Altamirano #586. Tel. (686) 553-4584.

This list is only a very small compilation of the major shopping centers in the city. Plaza la Cachanilla Shops such as boutiques, hair salons, jewelry stores, Chinese-themed stores, food court, Coppel Stores, Ley Stores, Sears Department Stores, etc. Plaza Nuevo Mexicali Shops such as clothing, boutiques, cellular phones, furnishings, and food court.

Aguilas de Mexicali Go and see Mexicali’s own baseball team in the Estadio Casas Geo. Soles de Mexicali Come and see Mexicali’s renowned basketball team. Golf Club de Golf Campestre has an 1850

Plaza Fiesta Restaurants, jewelry stores and flagship store Sanborns. Plaza Juventud 2000”’ Plaza San Pedro Plaza Centenario Centro Comercial Lienzo Plaza Cataviña Galerias del Valle Plaza Mundo Divertido ABSA - A Chinese store offering Chinese groceries, utensils, and newspapers. Located on Bulevar Mateos near the intersection with Avenida Benito Juárez (look for Chinese-style architecture and green roofs). Mexicali hosts most major national store chains such as: Soriana, Comercial Mexicana, FAMSA, Milano, Bodega Aurrera, among others. Mexicali also hosts international stores and shops like: Wal-Mart (3 Locations), Costco Wholesale, Blockbuster, Office Depot, The Home Depot, Sears, Gymboree, among others.

The selection of cuisine in Mexicali is very diverse. The Chinese contributed greatly to Mexicali cuisine with a very ample variety of dishes. Their food is as traditional to Mexicali as carne asada and it’s Chinese food is labeled as the best on the country, on par with that of San Francisco, and many tourists come to taste it. Good beer is another Mexicali tradition. World class beers have been produced in Mexicali since the early history. Today, there are small breweries that offer great varieties in terms of taste and characteristics. However, Mexicali is not just about Chinese food, carne asada tacos, and beer. There is a wide selection of specialty restaurants-national and international. One sample the finest wines that are produced in the Mediterranean climate within Baja California. Mexicali has a large Chinese immigrant population, with many excellent choices. Mexicali is also host to numerous international chains such as: Applebees, Starbucks Coffee, McDonalds, KFC, Burger King, Carl’s Jr, Thrifty Ice Cream, Little Caesars, Dominos Pizza, Dairy Queen, etc.

Fiestas del Sol Known as the biggest fair in the region, the Fiestas del Sol run from the end of September through mid-October. Practically all of Mexicali gathers during this time for music and celebration, participating in popular dances while enjoying commercial, agricultural, and industrial expositions, carnival rides, regional food, and shows from national and international artists. Baja Prog An international festival of progressive rock that brings together the most famous groups of this musical genre during the month of March. Agrobaja Considered the largest and most important agricultural exposition on the northern Mexican border, held in March.

Visitors returning to the United States are allowed to bring back a limited quantity of alcohol, around 1 liter per adult (check regulations). Most foreign liquor is priced as in the US, but Mexican liquors such as Tequila, Mescal, and Kaluha, as well as Mexican beers can be great bargains.

Hotel Lucerna, 2151 Blvd. Benito Juarez Crowne Plaza , Blvd. Lopez Mateos and Av. De Los Heroes 201 Araiza Hotel and Convention Center, Blvd. Benito Juarez 2220 Calafia Hotel and Convention Center”, Calzada Justo Sierra 1495 Fiesta Inn Calz. Adolfo López Mateos No. 1029 City Express Blvd. Benito Juárez No. 1342 Hotel Colonial Blvd. Lopez Mateos 1048 Hotel Siesta Real Calz. Justo Sierra 899

UABC Mexicali is the largest and oldest campus of Universidad Autónoma de Baja California (UABC). It hosts The Asociacón China de Mexicali offers Mandarin Chinese lessons for both adults and children. Weekly Saturday morning classes are held for local Chinese children, who are taught Mandarin Chinese instead of the Spanish and Cantonese that they normally speak among themselves. 51

Hotel Azteca de Oro, Calle de la Industria 600 Hotel Cosmos Posada, Calz. Justo Sierra #1943 “Hotel Del Norte’, Ave. Madero 205 Hotel Hacienda del Rio, Blvd. Lopez Mateos Y Fresnillo # 101 Hotel Posada del Sol, Calle Calafia 400 Hotel Posada Inn, Blvd. Lopez Mateos y Torneros # 939 Hotel Regis, Blvd. Benito Juarez 2150

While Mexicali has saved itself from the severity and degree of violence along the USMexico border and the insecurity is not as big as that of Tijuana, there is still potential for it to become dangerous, along with the violence that a regular metro city has such as petty theft, violence, and gang related incidents. The emergency number is 066. Avoid giving out money to beggars and homeless people standing in the street or along sidewalks and avoid buying things off the street to avoid trouble later. Do not buy illegal drugs to avoid becoming part of the ongoing violence. Overstocking yourself with prescription drugs will also warrant getting checked. While partying and clubbing in Mexico is all in good fun and allright, keep in mind that you will not get away with it because it is Mexico. You probably will get caught and kept a special eye on because you are an American, even if you look Latino. If you do anything unlawful, even if you are underage, you will spend time in prison. You do not get preferential treatment because you are an American citizen. While there is no need to have to hide the fact that you are an American, the flamboyant and flagrant exposition of self-thought superiority is not welcome, in good taste, or tolerated, like anywhere else in the world. Keep in mind that Mexico uses kilometers and not miles, and speed limits are much slower than in the United States. Please do not try to bribe the Mexican police officers, even if they are hinting at it. If you try to bribe, you will go to prison. Driving while using a cellphone or a radio without a handsfree device is illegal in the state of Baja California and it will get you ticketed. Trying to bargain prices will sometimes help, but in most places in Mexicali today it is not practiced and such behavior will be ignored. Do not be caught with any type of weapon in Mexico. This can include a small pocket knife, or even ammunition or bullet casings. American motorists have been jailed for driving into Mexico with spent ammunition casings in their car trunk. In the unlikely event of a major earthquake, duck and cover and stay where you are during the shaking, then go outside once the shaking

Hotel La Chinesca, Avenida Benito Juárez, between Mateos and Altamirano. Located in the historic La Chinesca area in downtown. Rate: 250 pesos / night for 1 bed. 50 peso deposit required. The hotel is owned by Dr. Enrique Auyon Tam, a Chinese-Mexican physician who runs a clinic next to the hotel. Hotel Samil, Blvd. Lázaro Cárdenas #1486 Hotel Villa del Sol, Blvd. López Mateos y Fuerza Aérea #133 Motel Aeropuerto, Carretera Mexicali Ledón km. 7.5 Motel Alves, Carretera Mexicali - Tijuana km. 1 Motel El Moro, Blvd. Aeropuerto 3598 Motel Liz, Carretera a San Felipe km. 1.5 Hotel Kennedy Calle Morelos 415-Altos Hotel Mexico Av. Lerdo 476, Zona Centro

The country code for Mexico is +52, and the area code for the Mexicali Metropolitan area is 686. Phone numbers have 7 digits (XXX-XX-XX) and cellular phone numbers are dialed using access code 044, the area code, and the number (044-686-XXX-XXXX). Your mobile carrier will work if they have an agreement with either Telcel, Illusacel, Telefonica (Movistar), or Nextel. They may also work in the areas close to the international border with American carriers such as Verizon, AT&T, Sprint, and T-Mobile. Most hotels (all of the High-end) have highspeed internet access and are wi-fi enabled. This is the same for shopping malls and coffee shops. You may also find hot-spots at college and university campuses throughout the city. 52

Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe Cathedral in the city center. By Thelma Datter.

stops. Buildings and other structures are unlikely to collapse. Your largest threats come from breaking windows and falling objects such as ceiling tiles and bookshelves. Try to get under a table, desk, or doorjam to reduce your exposure to these threats. You are more likely to be injured if you try to run during the shaking.

only for registered Mexican citizens and have problems getting medical attention there. There are drugstores and private medical and dental clinics throughout the city. A prescription from a licensed doctor in Mexico is needed to fill prescription drugs in any pharmacy in Baja California. These can be acquired at some pharmacies through their onlocation doctor.

While the city’s restaurants are registered by the Health Department and clean water is available city-wide, eating at roadside taco shops and drinking tap water is discouraged because one that is not used to this will probably get food poisoning. Avoid any foods you are not used to. Bottled water, gasified and pure, is available widely and you are encouraged to drink of it. If you need emergency medical treatment, it is preferred that you attend a private hospital and call 066, attending a public hospital or a Seguro Social hospital will be futile, as they are

Guadalupe Canyon Hot Springs offers a running stream and a variety of primitive (hose-fed from local springs) hot baths and camping; the area is popular with Mexicali locals; it is located 30 miles down a rough dirt road, some 20 miles west of town on the road to Tijuana. The area also contains a significant number of petroglyphs in nearby canyons accessible by foot. San Felipe is located 120 miles south on Highway 5. 53

Bow of a panga heading towards the San Felipe Malecon. By John Pack.

extensively and mapped for the first time. San Felipe was then given its original name, Santa Catalina, on the earliest maps of the Baja peninsula. Forgotten for years, San Felipe didn’t really come into its own history until the 1700s when Father Eusebio Kino discovered the Baja peninsula for the second time around. Over the next century, San Felipe was explored by both land and ship, and by 1772 was officially named a port with ships being sent out by 1794. It wasn’t until over a hundred years later in 1925 that San Felipe began to incorporate. It was during this time that General Abelardo L Rodriguez helped to establish the first fishing camps, government, and school. Sea transportation of both people and cargo also helped to establish this town in its beginning, and by 1940 there were 287 permanent residents. In 1947, part of the land in San Felipe was purchased to build an international tourist center. The paving of the Mexicali-San Felipe Highway was completed in 1951 opening an

San Felipe is located Norte 190km south of the US border. It lies at the coordinates and is 3 meters above sea level. Currently Governed by Roberto Leon, San Felipe is in the municipality of Mexicali, and in. The population increases by as much as 5,000 during the winter months when the many American and Canadian parttime residents come down to stay. San Felipe is a very casual, laid back town. It is a wonderful place in Baja to relax and enjoy the slower pace of life the peninsula loves to offer.

The first discovery of San Felipe dates back more than four centuries, when in 1535 the Baja peninsula was discovered by Hernán Cortez. Within a year, the region was explored 54

31° 1’23.19”N / 114°49’58.40”W The San Felipe Malecón is four blocks of breakwater, beach, retail, and restaurants in downtown on San Felipe. The area has gone through many changes in the last decade, with the most recent upgrades to the public restrooms at the south end. The area can become very active and during holidays and long weekends, it is where you will find tourists walking along or sitting on the breakwater wall, or at one of the many fresh shrimp and fish taco stands or restaurants. The Malecón is a wonderful place to walk, relax, and enjoy the Sea of Cortez.

San Felipe is a popular destination for people on Spring Break for both people of the US and Mexico. Its close proximity to the border makes it an easy drive, and during this time thousands travel to San Felipe to spend this time turning the town into a lively town full of people from all over. In the other months, San Felipe tends to be a bit quieter and is a wonderful place to come to relax by the tranquility of the Sea of Cortez. Photo by John Pack.

easier route of travel to get to this beautiful Baja location. The 1960s saw an increase in the construction of hotels and tourist camps including Costa Azul, Las Arenas, Playa Bonita, and Miramar. By 1963 the town had electricity and piped drinking water in 1967. Finally, by the 1970s, the government building was established as well as bars, restaurants, gas stations, a boat anchorage, the main sea walk aka El Malecon, and a sewer system.

aware that Highway 3 will feel like it goes on forever but it is beautiful, so be prepared for a long drive. From the Calexico border take Highway 5 in Mexicali, the drive is more or less a straight shot. Just follow the signs to Highway 5 all the way down into San Felipe. This drive takes a little over two hours. Always remember to only drive during the daylight hours in Baja. While the roads are better maintained than in years past, there can be potholes and other potential dangers while driving at night. Don’t ever drive without Mexican Auto Insurance. Your US Auto Insurance Policy will not work in Mexico. To get Mexican Auto Insurance, visit www.bglclub. com/mexican-auto-insurance or call (888) 552-2252 and have your membership number ready to receive a quote.

San Felipe is located in an unprecedented ecosystem where the desert meets the sea. Temperatures here average 24C (75F) all year long, and can range from a winter low of 4C (39F) to a summer high of 46C (115F) in the shade. The ocean temperature from December to March averages 17C (62F), and April-June see an average of 21C (70F) in the water. Things heat up in the summer months with water temperatures reaching the high 20s C (70s F) in July and low 30s C (80s F) in August and September.

ABC bus line runs from Tijuana and Mexicali to San Felipe 7 days a week.

The Malecon (sea walk) is the center of San Felipe. Most restaurants, bars, and hotels are located here and are all within walking distance of each other. Free parking is also available. Beach front camps are situated in town and a couple miles from town. When setting up your camp be careful, driving too far into the sand without four-wheel drive or you will most likely get stuck in the sand.

Driving to San Felipe is done simply and the routes from both the San Diego border and the Mexicali border are straightforward. From the San Diego border, take the 1-D into Ensenada. From here take the Mexican 3 south to the Mexican 5 south that will take you across the Baja Peninsula and directly into San Felipe. Be 56

Camping is a popular activity in San Felipe and there are miles of beautiful beaches and tourist camp spots. The natural beauty of the land and practically perfect climate make it a great place for those that like to sleep outdoors. If you decide to sleep on the beach, make sure to set your tent up at high tide, as this area is famous for extreme tidal changes. Camping in San Felipe is extremely popular during the spring break season. If you prefer camping around a lot of people in a lively atmosphere, this is the best time to come camp. If you’d rather go camping to relax in quiet and solitude, you may want to think about coming November through April when temperatures are ideal. The summer months tend to be very hot and can get uncomfortable if you decide to camp then.

31° 1’36.58”N / 114°49’45.27”W The lighthouse is by far the most recognizable landmark in San Felipe; the lighthouse is located north of the downtown Malecón area. The construction date is unknown, but this is one of the most accessible major lighthouses of Baja California. Focal plane 35m (115 ft.); white flash every 6s. 22m (72 ft.) cylindrical white concrete tower with four buttresses, adjoining a one-story keeper’s house. It is a functioning lighthouse that is used by local fishermen to guide them home. 31° 1’34.09”N / 114°49’47.07”W This local shrine pays homage to the Virgin of Guadalupe. The Virgin is essentially a symbol of Mexico itself, and she represents the national pride and strength of this nation. A short hike from the northern tip of the malecon will take you to this shrine that sits atop a hill in San Felipe, and should definitely not be missed. There is a flight of stairs that takes you to the top of the shrine which offers spectacular views of the ocean, the malecon, and entire city. Many people travel here just to see this shrine, climb the steps to the top, and light a candle in prayer or tribute.

Fishing camps once dotted the waters of San Felipe and this is no wonder as the fishing here ranges from good to excellent. Depending on the season, a variety of fish can be caught in the waters of this tranquil bay. December through March are the best times for sport fishing, and one can expect to catch and abundance in these months. The other months of the year are also excellent times to cast a reel, and anytime of the year will usually guarantee a successful fishing mission. If you do not have your own boat, you may want to rent the services of a local guide. There are many options in the town to choose from, and the locals will know the best spots for a good catch.

31° 7’ 0 N / 114° 28’ 60” W Only a 45 minute boat ride from San Felipe sits Konsag Island. This majestic rock formation juts straight out of the sea and is 57

home to a variety of marine wildlife. There are a multitude of different species of birds as well as seals and sea lions. Although the island is not accessible by foot, a ride around in a boat should not be missed to view the spectacular sea life that makes this island home. This is also a good spot for fishing, but make sure to watch out the sea lions don’t steal your catch.

30°20’44.23”N / 114°38’24.71”W Just 90 kilometers south of San Felipe is the little town of Puertecitos. Settled in 1949, this little fishing village has not changed much. The road to Puertecitos is paved, and is a beautiful coastal drive. By the time you reach Puertecitos the landscape becomes nearly absent of any vegetation. Puertecitos has a few establishments, basic supplies for sale, a small airstrip, a machine shop, and only a handful of families who live there full time. Those who do call it home are always helpful and gracious to the occasional traveler. The Cowpatty Cantina is a must when you visit Puertecitos. The funky little cantina is a local hangout and a favorite watering hole for travelers. It is on the west side of the highway before you reach town. Many tourists find the natural hot springs of Puertecitos to be its top draw. These springs are so intensely boiling hot, you must wait for high tide to roll in to cool the waters down enough to soak without burning. Many find soaking a necessity after the journey there, especially if you plan to continue the drive further south to Gonzaga Bay.

30°52’56.64”N / 114°45’31.28”W Valle de los Gigantes, or Valley of the Giants, is home to the largest Cardon cacti in the world. The shadows alone cast by these larger than life plants can extend as long as a few football fields. This natural wonder draws many photographers and naturalists all year long. The natural reserve of the thousand-year old Cardon Cactus has become a major attraction after the transport of one of these giant specimens to Seville, Spain, for Seville Expo ‘92. Local environmentalists are lobbying for the protection of the valley in the form of a Nature Reserve. Located 15 Km south of downtown San Felipe, just south of campo Punta Estrella, Valle de los Gigantes is a mustsee site.

29°47’48.42”N / 114°24’3.99”W Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, better known as Gonzaga Bay, is one of the most beautiful and pristine destinations in Baja. Just 100 miles south of San Felipe, Gonzaga Bay has remained a remote and isolated place. Paving of the road from San Felipe to Puertecitos was finished in 2009. As of this writing, the road has continued 18 miles south of Puertecitos, leaving only 27 rough and bumpy miles of dirt road to Gonzaga Bay. Gonzaga Bay is a dream destination for many. In addition to the breathtaking beauty of the area, the bay also includes over 70 oceanfront homes, an airstrip for the planes of owners and guests, Alfonsina’s restaurant and hotel, Rancho Grande market, and a Pemex. The raw beauty and remoteness of these two settlements cannot be replicated or even described. It is as far from civilization as most people ever care to venture, but worth the trip for the natural beauty alone and its “you have to see it to believe it” factor

30°51’238”N / W115°14’.137 There are several waterfalls in the mountains above San Felipe, but a favorite is what many refer to as Rob’s Ranch. The ranch is not much more than an old cattle shoot next to an area for parking. The falls are approximately 300 yards upstream of this point. Spring time is the best time to visit the area, when wild purple and yellow flowers blanket the desert floor and all the desert and mountain flora are blossoming and beautiful. Do not expect water during the summer months. The stream that provides the falls also provides water to several ranchos in the valley. The pipes used to carry the water are visible beside the stream and road. The falls are 25.2 miles southwest of San Felipe. From the top of Saltito Rd. (El Dorado Ranch) turn West (right), travel 8.7 miles to the cow’s hide fork in the road, stay on the left fork towards Valle Chico (small sign), continue 6.7 miles, turn right onto dirt road and continue 9.8 miles to Rob’s Ranch. 58

Computer Repair: The Computer Guy Member Discount: 25% off the first hour of labor Phone: 686-134-6183

Local calls dial the 7 digit number Calls to USA or Canada: dial 001 + area code + 7 digit number Calls to Rosarito from USA or Canada: dial 011-52646 and the 7 digit number *All of the three digit numbers can be dialed anywhere in Baja for emergency services.*

My Event Booster - All Event Promotions MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% discount Phone: 760-618-CLUB (2582) or 686-230-9933 (MX) www.myeventbooster.com support@myeventbooster.com

Emergency Assistance (like 911).......................066 Tourist Assistance..............................................078 Legal Assistance................................................061 Federal Police.....................................................060 CFE (electric company)......................................071

Baja Acupuncture MEMBER DISCOUNT: $5dlls off your treatment Phone: 686-573-9656 Baja Ink Spot MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% Discount on Tattoos Phone: 686-577-0746

Bomberos (Fire Department)............. 686-577-1882 Cruz Roja - Red Cross....................... 686-577-1544 CFE (electric company)..................... 686-577-1060 IMSS................................................ 686-577-1521 Local Police...................................... 686-577-1134 Mayors Office................................... 686-577-1021 State Judicial Office........................... 686-577-1203

Baja Medical - Hospital 686-576-0200 California Dental Member Discount: 10% off cleaning, whitening, and X-rays Phone: 686-577-0708 Consultorio Dental – Dr Jason Arias Corpus Member Discount: 30% off Dental Cleaning Phone: 686-577-6212

BGL Auto, RV, Motorcycle, and Boat Insurance MEMBER DISCOUNT: Annual policies starting at: $132.34 Call US toll free 888-552-2252 or direct 619-702-4292

Dr. Victor Abasolo, MD - General Doctor Photo: 686-577-1706 or Emergency 686-537-0174

BGL Home / Condo Insurance MEMBER DISCOUNT: Discount is Custom - Get a Quote! Phone: (818) 788-5353 US ask for Jason Wagner

IMSS Phone: 686-577-1521 Santa Fe Pharmacy MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off generic medications Phone: 686-576-0546

BGL Medical Insurance MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% discount Phone: (818) 788-5353 ask for Jason Wagner Binational Emergency Medical Care Committee MEMBER DISCOUNT: 11% off Annual Membership Phone: 619-425-5080

MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off all approved service Phone: 686-184-9248 KG Enterprises MEMBER DISCOUNT: $500 gift cert. card for referrals Phone: 686-209-1159 Sweitzer Construction Manager MEMBER DISCOUNT: 5% off of all building projects Phone: 686-577-0195

Blue Gecko Bakery MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% on all orders under $20dlls and 20% all orders over $20 dlls Phone: 686-209-6771

My Event Booster - All Event Promotions MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% discount Phone: 760-618-CLUB (2582) or 686-230-9933 (MX) www.myeventbooster.com support@myeventbooster.com

Baja Improvement Services Member Discount: 5% off Phone: 686-222-4507 or US 760-693-2995 Baja Battery Solutions Phone: 686-170-9030 www.bajapower4you.com

Amor Properties MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% of Fideicomisos and Bank Trusts Phone: 686-577-0692

La Competencia – Building Materials Member Discount: 5% discount on all in-store products Phone: 686-576-0676 San Felipe’s Paradise & Garden MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off Phone: 686-147-7872

Baja 247 Real Estate MEMBER DISCOUNT: Stay 2 nights get the 3rd night FREE on Vacation Rentals MEMBER DISCOUNT: FREE Appraisal Phone: 760-595-5643 US or 686-108-3524 MX ENG www.baja247.com baja247@gmail.com

Versoleil Landscaping Corporation MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off all approved services Phone: Office – 686-576-0664 Cell – 686-573-0526 (English) versoleil_landscaping@yahoo.com www.versoleilbaja.com

Baja Real Estate Consultants jake@bajarealestateconsultants.com www.MexicoSanFelipe.com

Baja 24/7 Real Estate MEMBER DISCOUNT: Stay 2 nights get the 3rd night FREE on Vacation Rentals MEMBER DISCOUNT: FREE Appraisal Phone: 760-595-5643 US or 686-108-3524 MX ENG www.baja247.com baja247@gmail.com

Baja Sun Real Estate Phone: 686-150-1052 or 619-793-5571 www.bajasunrealestate.com

Baja Mar Restaurant MEMBER DISCOUNT: 15% off Phone: 686-221-1359

Kiki’s RV Park - Campgrounds - Hotel MEMBER DISCOUNT: 5% off your stay Phone: 686-577-2021

La Cabana Restaurant MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off your meal Phone: 686-577-1855

San Felipe Storage MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% new accounts Phone: 686-688-0179

La Vaquita Restaurant MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off your meal on Mondays Phone: 686-577-1053 Mariscos La Morena MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off your meal Phone: 686-577-1053 Parrot’s Cracker Beach Bar & Grill MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% Off Phone: 686-216-1938

Puppies n Pearls Pet Sitting MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off when on a BGL Tour Phone: 686-168-3397 Dr Antonio Solis, DVM - Veterinarian Phone: 686-577-6232

Playa Azul Restaurant MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off & 15% off 6 or more people Phone: 686-586-5205

ABC (Bus Station) Phone: 686-577-1516

Sandrail Pizza MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off pizza Phone: 686-576-0441

Baja Amigos RV Caravans MEMBER DISCOUNT: $100 dlls Off 1-866-999-2252

The Pavilion Restaurant MEMBER DISCOUNT: 12% off your meal Phone: 686-216-1360

Baja By Bus MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% discount Phone: 686-906-7049 www.bajabybus.com contact@bajabybus.com

Baja Chocolate Lovers MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off in store bajachoclatelovers@yahoo.com

Parque del Palmerito Member Discount: 100 % discount for members = FREE Phone: 661-614-9010 www.catavina.com

Band It MEMBER DISCOUNT: Save $2 on each order Phone: 686-123-5147 bajateeia@gmail.com

Telnor Office...................................... 686-577-1000 Water Company................................ 686-577-1022 Power Company (CFE)...................... 686-577-1060 Propane Gas (Z-Gas.......................... 686-577-2373

Baja Solar Ovens MEMBER DISCOUNT: FREE Oven Pan with oven purchase bcovens@gmail.com Baja Treasures MEMBER DISCOUNT: 15% off first purchase and 10% each other purchase. Phone: 480-263-9498 yogibear1224me@yahoo.com Pelicano Market MEMBER DISCOUNT: 5% Off on Wednesdays Hwy - 5 heading south. East site of the road Rancho Market MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% off everyday Phone: 686-576-1020

Taxes in Mexico MEMBER DISCOUNT: 10% discount Phone: 376-765-5273 taxesinmexico@gmail.com www.taxesinmexico.com

Lic Magdalena Rodriguez - Veterinarian Phone: 686-577-2155

Rachel and Cai posing in front of CowPatty, by John Pack.

Puertecitos is located 90 kilometers or 52 miles south of San Felipe, down the newlyimproved San Felipe-Puertecitos road. This seaside campo, which currently consists mostly of abandoned trailers and seaside bungalows, was founded in 1949 by Rafael Orozco and is one of the main attractions of this part of northern Baja due to it being host to one of the most beautiful natural hot springs that we have visited. Puertecitos is not big on amenities, so we suggest bringing what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be consuming with you. Just before the entrance, there is a Pemex gas station, which was nearly completed a few years back and may never be open, a small general store (Abarrotes Las Palmas), and a drinking water outlet. The Cow Patty is a creatively decorated bar located about a mile north of the campo on the west side of the road, if you want to enjoy a drink with the locals. In addition to the hot springs, the campo of Puertecitos offers palapa camping, a sandy beach, toilets and a restaurant. It also has a dirt airstrip for adventurous pilots. We spoke to two pilots from Colorado who had landed their small planes in Puertecitos to enjoy the springs on their aeronautical trip further south. A gatekeeper usually collects $10 per car at the entrance, but if heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not there, he usually catches up with you later at the springs if you drive in. The hot springs are located a short drive from the campo entrance on a medium-quality dirt

road. Go past the camping area to its left, toward the residential area, and once in the residential area, generally stay to the right at just about every fork in the dirt road except when you see the marked entrance to the springs on the left. When arriving at the springs for the first time, all you can see are rocks leading to the sea, but on closer examination, you will discern several pools nestled among the rocks. They have varying degrees of temperature, depending on the tidal level and the poolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proximity to the springs and the sea. Be very careful to test the water before you enter since at low tide the pools are hot enough to burn. We also recommend consulting a tide calendar (see page 9), since the best time for using these natural springs is about mid-tide in order for the thermal and sea water to mix for a comfortable soak. For example, when high tide was at 1:30 p.m., the springs were too hot at 11 a.m. and perfect at noon. At high tide, the tubs are submerged, and are not much warmer than the sea. The combination of sea water and geothermal sulfur spring water make these springs especially unique, and people have told us that the water has therapeutic properties for them. One elder gentleman testified that he had made a special trip to Puertecitos from Washington state because the healing waters relieved his arthritis and allowed him much greater movement in his hands. 62

Best Event of 2013, Blues and Arts Fiesta, Gary Dilly of the San Felipe Lions Club.

Best Real Estate Broker and Agent of 2013, Michelle Waters of Baja Sun Real Estate.

Rick Rudd and Heather Penrod-Rudd

Best Dentist of 2013, Melina California of California Dental Spa .

Best Home Builder of 2013, Ester Gonzalez of EZ Homes Construction.

What a crazy season of passionate voting. This year we had 17,245 total votes cast over 33 categories, and although not all votes could be counted in the final results,it still showed a wild enthusiasm for the candidates. To date our biggest voting year was 2008 with nearly 11,000 votes.This year even with the enthusiastic votes, we still received over 14,000 total votes Baja wide. Any candidate on these results is a WINNER - period! No candidate could make this list without first having been nominated by at least 5 unsolicited individuals from the Baja community, with only the top three nominees in each category making this list, so these are the Best of the Best. Let me explain the numbers.This year we tried a new system, which we knew had a whole in it, but rather than plug the whole, which would have limited voting to a single IP address per computer, we instead decided to leave the whole and see what happens. We found some very energetic voters, that found and took advantage. I guess some people will do anything to give their team an advantage. In any case, we were prepared. So, the numbers work like this: The first number is the total votes cast, followed by the number of total valid votes.

• Best Activity in San Felipe - Blues & Arts • Best Bakery in San Felipe - Panaderia Especial • Best Bar in San Felipe - Parrot’s Cracker • Best Bartender in San Felipe - Juanito (Pete’s Camp) • Best Breakfast in San Felipe - Roadrunner Cafe • Best Cheap Eats in San Felipe - Playa Azul • Best Contractor in San Felipe - EZ Homes Construction • Best Dentist in San Felipe - Dr. Melina California Ferros • Best Development (Residential) - El Dorado Ranch • Best Doctor / Clinic in San Felipe - Dr. Lopez (Baja Medical Center) • Best Entertainment Karaoke in San Felipe - Mac N Nan • Best Entertainment Band in San Felipe Vatos Locos • Best Entertainment Performer in San Felipe - Michael Byrne • Best Grocery Market in San Felipe Pelicano • Best Haircut/Salon in San Felipe - Mychels Salon • Best Happy Hour in San Felipe - Parrot’s Cracker • Best Hardware Store in San Felipe Compentencia • Best Immigration Service in San Felipe Yugo Valenzuela • Best Landscaping in San Felipe - San Felipe

17,245 Total Votes Cast Over 33 Categories BEST OF SAN FELIPE, Baja California • Best Art Gallery in San Felipe - The Home Store • Best Artist in San Felipe - Arturo Gomez 64

Nursery • Best Liquor Store in San Felipe - Licores Riviera • Best Lodging in San Felipe - San Felipe Beachfront Rentals • Best Mail Service in San Felipe - Sunrunner • Best Pizza in San Felipe - Sandrail Pizza • Best Mexican Food in San Felipe - Playa Azul • Best Non-Mexican in San Felipe - Parrot’s Cracker • Best Real Estate Agent in San Felipe Darryl & Michele McDonough • Best Real Estate Broker in San Felipe - Baja Sun Realty • Best Seafood In San Felipe - La Vaquita Marina • Best Steak in San Felipe - Parrot’s Cracker • Best Sweets in San Felipe - Baja Chocolate Lovers • Best WiFi in San Felipe - La Taza

Eco-Tours • Best Lodging in Bahia de Los Angeles - Los Vientos Resort BEST OF MULEGE, Baja California Sur • Best Mexican Food in Mulege - Los Equipales Cafe • Best Breakfast in Mulege - Magos Coffe and Sweets • Best Bar in Mulege - Serenidad Hotel (Saturday Pig Roast) • Best Lodging in Mulege - Hotel Hacienda • Best Activity in Mulege - Explore the Beaches of Bahia de la Concepcion BEST OF LORETO, Baja California Sur • Best Tours in Loreto - Baja Big Fish Company • Best Non-Mexican Food in Loreto - Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop • Best Mexican Food in Loreto - Asadero Super Burro • Best Cheap Eats in Loreto - Wine Cellar at Nopolo • Best Breakfast in Loreto - Pan Que Pan • Best Bar in Loreto - Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop • Best Lodging in Loreto - Coco Cabanas Loreto • Best Activity in Loreto - Loreto Bay National Marine Park

BEST OF ROSARITO BEACH, Baja California • Best Non-Mexican Food in Rosarito Betuccini’s Pizzeria & Trattoria • Best Mexican Food in Rosarito - Puerto Nuevo Restaurant • Best Cheap Eats in Rosarito - The Mongolian Grill • Best Breakfast in Rosarito - Splash • Best Lodging in Rosarito - Rosarito Beach Hotel • Best Artist in Rosarito - Robert Pace Kidd • Best Art Gallery in Rosarito - Baja Gallery • Best Activity in Rosarito - Shopping

BEST OF LOS BARRILES, Baja California Sur • Best Non-Mexican Food in La Paz - Sushi Zone • Best Mexican Food in La Paz - Tailhunter Restaurant and FUBAR Cantina • Best Cheap Eats in La Paz - Rancho Viejo • Best Breakfast in La Paz - Corazon Cafe • Best Real Estate Broker in La Paz - Amistad Real Estate • Best Real Estate Agent in La Paz - Simon Loftus • Best Bar in La Paz - Tailhunter Restaurant and FUBAR Cantina • Best Lodging in La Paz - Costa Baja Resort & Spa • Best Activity in La Paz - Fishing

BEST OF ENSENADA, Baja California • Best Non-Mexican Food in Ensenada - El Rey Sol Restaurant • Best Mexican Food in Ensenada - Mariscos Bahia de Ensenada • Best Cheap Eats in Ensenada - Panaderia Pastelo • Best Breakfast in Ensenada - Punta Morro • Best Lodging in Ensenada - Estero Beach Resort • Best Activity in Ensenada - Fish Market & Marina

BEST OF LOS BARRILES, Baja California Sur • Best Non-Mexican Food in Los Barriles Roadrunner Cafe and Bakery • Best Mexican Food in Los Barriles - El Viejo

BEST OF BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES, Baja California • Best Tours in Bahia de Los Angeles - Joel’s 65

Laural & Jim Ross with Gene Jensen & Debbie Gerard

• Best Breakfast in Los Barriles - Roadrunner Cafe and Bakery • Best Lodging in Los Barriles - Hotel Palmas de Cortez • Best Activity in Los Barriles - Quadman ATV Rentals

• Best Breakfast in Cabo San Lucas - Los Barriles Restaurant & Bar • Best Bar in Cabo San Lucas - Cabo Wabo • Best Lodging in Cabo San Lucas - The Bungalows Hotel • Best Activity in Cabo San Lucas - Cabo Sailing Ocean Adventures

BEST OF SAN JOSE DEL CABO, Baja California Sur • Best Non-Mexican Food in San Jose del Cabo - La Forchetta • Best Mexican Food in San Jose del Cabo Villa Valentina Restaurant • Best Cheap Eats in San Jose del Cabo - El Herradero Mexican Grill and Bar • Best Breakfast in San Jose del Cabo Buzzards Bar & Grill • Best Bar in San Jose del Cabo - Baja Brewing Company • Best Lodging in San Jose del Cabo - Cabo Surf Hotel • Best Activity in San Jose del Cabo Downtown Shopping/Exploring

BEST OF TODOS SANTOS, Baja California Sur • Best Non-Mexican Food in Todos Santos Bistro Magico • Best Mexican Food in Todos Santos Tequila’s Sunrise Bar & Grill • Best Cheap Eats in Todos Santos - The Gemini Deli and BBQ • Best Breakfast in Todos Santos - La Esquina • Best Lodging in Todos Santos - Rancho Pescadero • Best Art Gallery in Todos Santos - Galeria Logan • Best Activity in Todos Santos - Art Shopping

BEST OF CABO SAN LUCAS, Baja California Sur • Best Non-Mexican Food in Cabo San Lucas - Slush Up • Best Mexican Food in Cabo San Lucas Pancho’s Tequila Bar & Grill • Best Cheap Eats in Cabo San Lucas Happy Ending Cantina

2014 Nominations and Voting Information. Nominations are open now, until September 30, 2014. Candidate announcements and voting will begin Monday October 15, 2014. More information at www.bglclub.com 66

Playa Coyote in Mulege on Bahia de Comcepcion. Photo by Lorraine “Raine” Fisher.

Living in Baja can be an expat’s dream come true, a real expat paradise, especially for Canadians and Americans. Baja has a little or alot of everything you could want, from the luxurious and sophisticated to the rustic and simple. You can live as you choose in Baja, and still be in close proximity to your birthday place, your hometown, your kids, and grandkids. This security blanket makes living the Baja good life a little easier. The Baja peninsula attracts many Americans and Canadians. It has been a favorite with retirees, snowbirds and expats worldwide for nearly 50 years, and for several good reasons: • large existing expat communities • within driving distance, quality and affordable medical care • easy access to US medical • great affordable living choices • great quality of life • friendly and helpful people Of course, there is also excellent fishing, sailing, and diving opportunities as well as a wide-open pristine environment that everyone should respect and help protect. The beauty and majesty of Baja California is lost on no one. However, the landscape and beaches are not the only places to experience all the wonder of Baja. The seas and the creatures they are home to are just as aweinspiring and alluring as the land itself. The most powerful and majestic creatures you can witness and even interact with in the seas of Baja are the whales. One of the most popular and breathtaking whale watching experiences to be had in Baja is the migration and birthing practices of the gray whales. From January until March, the gray whales enter the warm waters after traveling from the Alaskan Bering Sea. The mothers all give birth to calves in the early spring. The moms and calves are so docile and comfortable in these waters they often will interact, play and splash boats filled with spectators. The Baja peninsula consists of two Mexican states, Baja California and Baja California Sur. Baja California literally means ‘lower California’ in Spanish. In terms of this article, “Baja

California” or “Baja” will refer to the peninsula. Baja is in northwest Mexico directly south of the US states of California and Arizona. The capital of Baja California, the northern state is Mexicali; the name is derived from the names ‘Mexico’ and ‘California’. Mexicali is located on the US-Mexico border adjacent to the US city of Calexico in California. The capital of the southern state Baja California Sur is La Paz; the name is Spanish for ‘The Peace’. La Paz is located on the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California) 950 miles south of the San Ysidro (San Diego) US - Tijuana Mexico border in California.

The quality of care is outstanding with the highest standards of medical training and practices as well as excellent specialists and care. For this reason, like many other parts around the world, Mexico and Baja in particular have seen a large growth in medical tourism and medical care providers, with most patients coming from US and Canada. The short travel time to Mexico and Baja from the rest of the North American continent enables around one million people per year to travel south for medical care. Medical tourism in Mexico is so popular due to a combination of several factors. The first one is the cost of the services. According to MedicalTourism.com, the prices for various procedures in Mexico can be several times cheaper than the ones in the US. This is partly due to cost controls on health services implemented by the Mexican government. Other advantages include short distances, widespread use of English, short waiting times, mild climate, and high quality of services.

Due to the proximity of Mexico to the US as well as the excellent opportunities for vacation or retirement homes, many US citizens own property in Baja. Purchasing real estate Baja is safe and rewarding, and you as a buyer has full rights, and is the direct owner and can make improvements, mortgage the property, 68

lease and sell it as well as give it to his heirs as inheritance. Before buying any property, do some due diligence and look into the paperwork and title insurance along with the bank information regarding trusts and closing costs as well as all details pertinent to the sale. Get a market analysis for the properties that have been sold in the area for the previous few months. You can get such information from most real estate agents in Baja. A comparable market analysis will help you make an informed offer and never sign something you don’t understand.

incredible shopping in the artisan shops with some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture, wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional Mexican crafts. You’ll find a culinary paradise of international cuisine from traditional Mexican, sensational seafood and delicious steaks to American, Chinese, French and Italian specialties. Be sure to visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo, just 15 minutes south of Rosarito—a tourist and culinary destination. Whether staying for vacation or life, you will enjoy Playas de Rosarito.

Okay, now that you know some of the basics. Where can you live? The popular expat communities of northern Baja are Rosarito Beach, Ensenada on the Pacific and San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez, there is also a growing number of expats in San Quintin and Bahia de Los Angeles. The popular expat communities of southern Baja are Mulegé, Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, consisting of Los Barriles on the east cape, San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas at land’s end and Todos Santos on the Pacific on the west cape. If you are interested in cost savings by living abroad but still a little wary about going too far away from the American border, the northern Baja region offers several safe, beautiful, and affordable options. If enjoy the adventure of Baja, driving Baja or don’t mind flying, then southern Baja offers the finest in luxury to laid back. There are many wonderful expat communities in Baja’s nearly 1000-mile length. Here is a list of some of the most popular:

Ensenada is the third-largest city in the state of Baja California. About 70 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border, located in the Bahía de Todos Santos—an inlet of the Pacific Ocean—Ensenada is an important commercial and fishing port as well as a cruise ship stop. The city is backed by small mountain ranges, and due to its location on the Pacific Ocean and Mediterranean latitude, the weather tends to be mild year round. Most of the shopping is at sea level, making it a great city for getting around on your own energy. Ensenada is easy to navigate with all numbered streets running north and south, and celebrity-named streets running east and west. Ensenada has the accommodations to meet any level of comfort or amenities. Prices can range depending on the time of year from $30 to $250 plus. The best hotels are located to the north and south of town, along the beach, and are not within walking distance from downtown shopping and attractions; but taxi and shuttles are available in most locations.

Playas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican state of Baja California. It is located between the Pacific Ocean and the coastal foothills, just 20 minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is a popular destination for tourists, snowbirds and expatriates from the United States. With 20 miles of white, sandy beaches with endless activities, Rosarito offers a large variety of places to stay and things to do, including

San Felipe is a small fishing village, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 118 miles south of the U.S. border, which was historically dependent upon fishing; however, today tourism and real estate provide the economic base. Even as it grows into the next century with four-lane highways, it will remain a small fishing village in its heart and soul. Today, San Felipe is maturing into a sophisticated resort community with new 69

resorts, luxury condos, fine restaurants, sport fishing and world-class off-road adventures. The beaches extend north and south with over 50 miles of shoreline to explore, including 23-foot tides, exposing a kilometer or more of ocean floor—one of the largest tidal bores in the world. And directly behind San Felipe is Sierra San Pedro Martír, the tallest mountains in Baja. The desert terrain is vast and offers incredible trails and exploration for ATVs, dirt bikes and off-road vehicles. Just south of San Felipe are extensive sand dunes ideal for buggies and rails. The Valley of the Giants, the natural reserve of the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus, has become a major attraction. In addition, San Felipe offers great bargain shopping for souvenirs, arts and much more.

and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.

Loreto Baja California Sur missionaries, was the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777. The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283. Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto International Airport. Many of the American tourists enjoy fishing in “pangas” for “dorado” (Mahi-mahi or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent museum alongside the historic, but still active, parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of fresh water on this site. Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer). The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures are hot from June through October. These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity.

Mulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción. In 2005, the reported population was 3,317. Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings. Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking, scuba diving and kayaking to deep sea fishing. The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters. By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1, and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe. By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport,

La Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°Wand is an important commercial center. Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourth-largest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land. La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid. The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a 70

weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild. By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo. By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.

redevelopment of the town. There are many beautiful beaches within a 30-minute drive. Playa Las Palmas and Playa Los Cerritos are great beaches for swimming and shell collecting, and Los Cerritos attracts surfers from around the world.

Los Barriles is a quaint little town 45 minutes north of the San Jose Del Cabo Airport and 65 miles south of the La Paz Airport, and only a 90-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of Cabo San Lucas. The consistent winds and beautiful, white sandy beaches make Los Barriles a hot spot for water and wind enthusiasts from late November until early March. One of the top Wind Surfing and Kite Boarding destinations in the world, Los Barriles offers postcard perfect beaches and a couple of small, well maintained hotels ready to serve the needs of Baja travelers. In addition to wind and water sports, Los Barriles is considered the Bill Fishing capital of the world. During the summer months, the area offers exceptional fishing for Marlin, Sailfish, Dorado, Tuna and Wahoo.

Named “Pueblo Mágico” in 2006, Todos Santos is a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula, about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas and an hour south from La Paz. Located at 23°26´56˝N 110°13´32˝W, Todos Santos is very near the Tropic of Cancer in the municipality of La Paz. The population was 4,078 at the census of 2005. During the 19th century Todos Santos thrived as the Baja sugarcane capital. Now the rich farmlands have been reworked and the town prospers from an abundance of avocado, vegetable and chili farming, papaya and mango orchards, fishing and ranching. The mission Nuestra Señora del Pilar de La Paz was founded by father Jaime Bravo in 1723. This mission contains the statue of the Virgin of Pilar, which is the focus of the town’s main festival in October. More recently, there has been an increase in tourist activity and a boom in real estate development. Handicraft shops, art galleries, upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and restored colonial buildings have contributed to the gentrification and

San José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula. In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518. Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served by Los Cabos International Airport. San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and all the nighttime entertainment you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches. 71

party atmosphere, a resort studded tourist corridor that stretches between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a high-end vacation destination. Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters. Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships. Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.” Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).

For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean. Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laid-back ambiance.

Cabo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the second-largest in Baja California Sur. The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous

Shopping by permanently scatterbrained.

Baja is synonymous with paradise in the eyes of those who have never been there and rightfully in the eyes of those who have. For many outside of Baja, the thought of packing it all in and moving across the border to live along pristine shores and be adorned with world’s best weather is a fantasy. Transplants from the United States say living this dream is a lot cheaper than one may think. Living in paradise is not just for the rich and famous, but for almost anyone who musters up the courage to go to Baja and turn the key to their dream home. Owning a beautiful home or condo in Baja, right along the shore, is a bargain compared to buying any ocean view home in the United States. You can design a two-story home with 72

custom cabinets, floors and fixtures for under the median home price for most homes in the U.S. One sure savings when it comes to owning property in Baja is property taxes. While taxes can keep many U.S. residents from even thinking about buying in a certain community; they are a steal in Baja. Robin Waters of San Felipe says, “In January of each year you can pay your property taxes for the year and receive a large discount. – If you pay in Jan. you get 18% discount. Also regarding your property tax, unimproved land is much more expensive than with a completed structure. For instance our taxes on a vacant lot were $800 +/-, but when our home was completed, and registered as finished with the tax office they went down to $140.00 for the year.” That kind of deal and 73

Neighbors will typically take a list and come back with enough of what is needed by the neighborhood to last a few months. Food is one surprising source of savings for the Lawrence’s and others. They add, “We shop as our parents and grandparents did before us, usually every other day and buy fresh veggies from a roadside market, and most of our meat is cut as we order from a butcher. We are eating better and healthier since the availability of processed foods is scarce and expensive if found.” By eating as the locals do and giving up the dependence on ready-made and unhealthy fast food, they have quickly discovered a way to live better and save money at the same time. Even eating out at the local restaurants presents opportunities to save. Some fabulous dinner for two specials can be found for less than $20 USD. As for a real money-saving way to enjoy great food and great company in Baja, most who have lived in the region for any length of time advise people to look no further than their own neighborhoods and circle of friends for a fun night out. Having everyone bring a potluck style dish, a good bottle of wine and settle in for a night of conversation and listening to the waves is better than waiting in line at an overpriced restaurant. Entertainment is not in short supply in Baja. While it can be easy to spend a lot, there are also well-known ways to enjoy oneself and spend very little if anything. For people like Gene Jensen, remembering what Baja has to offer and why it was such an alluring destination is the key to making your own fun. Jensen says, “Stay Home and watch the ocean. Walk on the Beach. Hold hands with the one you love. Go for walks in the desert. Take pictures. Fall in love again with the one you have, or the new one that you might find. You can be at peace with yourself just to stay Home. Go visit a friend or have them over.... Bring a side dish, play volley ball, tennis, bocce ball and Horseshoes.” Jensen and others have found that by adopting a new way of life and learning to enjoy peace and solitude, living cheaply in Baja may actually be the best way to live life to the richest.

discount in the United States is unheard of. Discounts can also be found in Baja when it comes to the cost of utilities. Waters adds, “Also the water company gives a 15% discount if you pay annually (equivalent to your last year’s usage). – I believe that we pay about 700.00 pesos for the year, and have a huge garden with a drip watering system, plus an apartment and our home.” Joyce and Richard Lawrence have also found the general cost of living in Baja to be very doable on any budget. They say “We have lived here in San Felipe for about 20 months, we have calculated that not including living quarters but including electric, water etc (utilities) and food we spend about $500.00-$600.00 per month. our electric bill is similar to our bills in the States but we were from Fresno California and the Electric was not extremely high, also here in Baja we get a credit of about one-third of our bill June through September, usually less than $100.00 per month even using air conditioning, the water is extremely reasonable usually under $10.00 per month, and we have flowers and a garden to water.” As for general services and goods, discounts and adjusting to the local ways has helped many live cheaply in Baja. On aspect a number of transplants seem to find once they have lived in Baja is that it is not a throw-away society like the U.S. has become. You quickly learn to save money by finding new uses for things rather than just throwing everything out. When shopping for goods, it is a good idea to get to know your local merchants. Joyce Lawrence says, “We bargain for most other items other than food, most of the merchants will give discounts if they know we live here full-time, and many get to know us more as time goes by, I have summer sundresses made to order from fabric I pick out for about $8.00.” Gene Jensen, who moved to Baja in 2004, has also found ways to save money in Baja. He says, “I belong to the San Felipe chapter of the Baja Good Life Club and I get 5% to 20% off of most restaurants, hardware stores and groceries that I buy.” As for goods that can be hard to find, most people who have developed friendships with other former stateside residents often take turns making the trek across the border to stock up on supplies. 74

Mexico

Consumer Prices in Mexico are 39.93% lower than in United States Consumer Prices Including Rent in Mexico are 48.42% lower than in United States Rent Prices in Mexico are 67.33% lower than in United States Restaurant Prices in Mexico are 48.44% lower than in United States Groceries Prices in Mexico are 41.75% lower than in United States Local Purchasing Power in Mexico is 54.99% lower than in United States Mexico

United States

Difference

Meal, Inexpensive Restaurant

$10.00

Meal for 2, Midrange Restaurant

$45.00

$22.34

-50.35 %

Combo Meal LIKE McDonalds

$06.09

$05.21

-14.39 %

Domestic Beer (0.5 liter draught)

$03.31

$01.49

-55.00 %

Imported Beer (0.33 liter bottle)

$05.00

$02.23

-55.31 %

Cappuccino (regular)

$03.63

$02.22

-38.76 %

Coke/Pepsi (0.33 liter bottle)

$01.58

$00.70

-55.57 %

Water (0.33 liter bottle)

$01.27

$00.62

-51.28 %

-55.31 %

Oranges (1kg)

$03.28

$01.56

-52.26 %

Tomato (1kg)

$4.70

$01.53

-67.50 %

Potato (1kg)

$02.71

$01.04

-61.56 %

Lettuce (1 head) $01.71

$00.78

-54.34 %

Water (1.5 liter bottle)

$02.00

$00.89

-55.31 %

Bottle of Wine (Mid-Range)

$11.00

$10.99

-0.13 %

Domestic Beer (0.5 liter bottle)

$02.19

$01.38

-37.01 %

Imported Beer $03.00 (0.33 liter bottle)

$01.86

-37.93 %

Pack of Cigarettes $07.00 (Marlboro)

$02.87

-59.04 %

One-way Ticket $02.00 (Local Transport)

$00.51

-74.65 %

Monthly Pass (Regular Price)

$65.00

$22.34

-65.63 %

Taxi Start (Normal Tariff)

$03.00

$01.86

-37.93 %

Taxi 1km (Normal $01.55 Tariff)

$00.45

-71.09 %

Taxi 1hour $28.00 Waiting (Normal Tariff)

$08.94

-68.08 %

Gasoline (1 liter) $00.97

$00.84

-13.00 %

Volkswagen Golf 1.4 90 KW Trendline (Or Equivalent New Car)

$20,000.00 $15,640.48 -21.80 %

Utilities

Markets Milk (regular), (1 liter)

$01.18

$01.07

-9.14 %

Loaf of Fresh White Bread (500g)

$03.87

$02.30

-40.49 %

Rice (white), (1kg)

$04.87

$01.07

-78.07 %

Eggs (12)

$03.69

$02.25

-38.93 %

Local Cheese (1kg)

$13.44

$06.11

-54.56 %

Chicken Breasts (Boneless, Skinless), (1kg)

$11.27

$07.94

-29.50 %

Apples (1kg)

Difference

Transportation

Restaurants $04.47

United States

$04.51

$2.50

Basic (Electricity, $162.41 Heating, Water, Garbage) for 85m2 Apartment

$60.36

-62.83 %

1 min. of Prepaid Mobile Tariff Local (No Discounts or Plans)

$0.21

+40.78 %

$29.23

-35.87 %

$00.15

Internet (6 Mbps, $45.57 Unlimited Data, Cable/ADSL)

-44.65 %

Mexico

United States

Difference

Mexico

Sports And Leisure Fitness Club, Monthly for 1 Adult

$39.78

Tennis Court Rent (1 hr)

$18.70

$11.77

-37.09 %

Cinema, 1 International Release

$10.00

$4.47

-55.31 %

$42.11

+5.85 %

United States

Difference

Apartment (1 bedroom) in City

$980.88

$289.17

-70.52 %

Apartment (1 bedroom)

$743.82

$210.43

-71.71 %

Apartment (3 bedrooms) in City

$1,682.15

$586.42

-65.14 %

Apartment (3 bedrooms)

$1,269.91

$442.08

-65.19 %

$757.36

-76.78 %

Salaries And Financing

Clothing And Shoes 1 Pair of Jeans (Levis 501)

$40.63

$49.12

+20.90 %

1 Summer Dress in a Chain Store

$36.15

$47.50

+31.39 %

1 Pair of Nike Shoes

$75.99

$81.02

+6.62 %

1 Pair of Men Leather Shoes

$83.09

$60.30

-27.43 %

Average Monthly Disposable Salary (After Tax)

$3,261.98

Mortgage Interest Rate in Percentages (%), Yearly

4.19

11.16 +166.08 %

Data provided by Numbeo.com, Last update: January, 2014

Rent Per Month

Benito Pablo JuĂĄrez GarcĂa, President of Mexico for five By Rachel Pack.

discount. If you pay your taxes in January, you can pay 18% less. When is the last time you got a discount on your property taxes?

Beautiful scenery is abundant, from the three majestic towering mountain ranges and peaks that run the length of the peninsula, and Pacific Ocean on one side, and Sea of Cortez on the other with nearly 2000 miles of coastline, much untouched or developed along with approximately 65 islands. If that isn’t enough, Baja has the most amazing, expansive deserts in the world and even a couple of forests. If you are looking to relocate there isn’t much more you could ask for. Baja is a land with rich natural wonders and fascinating history that comes with many tales that the locals love to share.

Terry, Suzette, Troy, John, and Rachel hanging out in San Felipe By Rachel Pack

cases your days and nights includes your many Baja friends, whether playing Bocce ball, horseshoes, going to a potluck, backyard parties, or a night out on the town; it is all about getting together and sharing the Baja good life. Additionally, the Mexican people are easygoing and very welcoming. Most are always willing to lend a hand and share their knowledge and stories. There are many small towns all along the coast of Baja. These towns all have a small town feel, where people share what they have and work together to make their town a community.

Baja seems to be the answer for many Americans & Canadians that are asking, “How can we live better, live longer, live happier; without it costing a fortune?” The Baja Good Life Club would like to share our top seven (7) reasons why moving to Baja is the healthier and more relaxed way of life.

In many towns, small businesses, in some cases just carts on the corners, sell fresh fruits and vegetables. Small butcher stores will provide you with fresh meats cut to order. Many street vendors and small stores sell fresh sliced fruits and smoothies for healthy snacks throughout the day. With so much good food and the lack of handy fast foods present, at least in the smaller towns, it makes it simple to eat healthy without spending the extra it would normally cost to go to specialty markets to get all these healthy, fresh, unprocessed foods.

Baja offers a relaxing attitude that is simple and can be stress free, if you let it. In many cases getting up in the morning and going for a walk in the desert, or on the beach, creates the care free attitude that Baja is proud of. Baja lends itself to a low stress, healthy, happy lifestyle that is like being on vacation every day. Of course, if you are looking to get out on the town there is plenty of opportunities for nightlife; many of these areas also cater to tourists, so an all night long party is not hard to accomplish.

Baja has so much more to offer than just beautiful scenery and great weather. The friendships that are created between all the like minded people visiting and moving to Baja in incredible and last a lifetime. In many 78

The cost of living can be substantially less than living in either of the northern neighbors. For instance, having dinner out at a local restaurant that offers fresh catch from the Pacific Ocean or the Sea of Cortez, would be a quarter of what you would pay in San Diego or Vancouver. Then once you get the lay of the land, you will find the best bargains and where to go for the big, special nights that money is no object. You can live simple or have a lavish home with a house cleaner; it is all up to want you want. Utilities are also cheaper. It is possible to keep your power bill very reasonable since you rarely need a heater or air conditioner, except for a couple of months a year, depending on where in Baja you live. Health care in Mexico is excellent and is highly affordable, with most cities in Mexico having at least one first-rate hospital. There are Mexico’s top-rate hospitals are internationally accrediteD. a new trend is residents of USA, particularly near the Mexican border, routinely cross the Mexican border for medical care. Dentistry, Eye care, and plastic surgery are increasing in populaarity. The dentists in Mexican can charge as much as 20 to 25 percent of US prices, With other medical procedures typically cost a 1/3 of what it would cost in the US. Accounting to International Living Magazine, states that on average, an office visit with a doctor—specialists included—will cost about $25 dlls, an overnight stay in a private hospital room costs about $35 dlls, and a visit to a dentist for teeth cleaning costs about $20 dlls. Of course not everyone can just pack up their belongings, quit their jobs and head to Baja to live. Nevertheless, others find ways by saving up or even starting a new business wherever they decide to live. In whatever manner you go about making it possible to move to Baja, you will not regret it once you are there. When you feel the stress of your old life melt away and start to settle into the graciousness of your new life, you will thank yourself for making it happen every day as you walk on the beach and begin to live life to its fullest.

Baja’s weather is perfect, always. You’re think no way, that’s not possible. But it is, depending on the time of the year, the weather is perfect someplace. Winters are amazing all along the east side and the Sea of Cortez, from San Felipe to Cabo San Lucas. During the summers, anywhere along the northern Pacific Ocean is beautiful. The further south you go the warmer and more humid it can get during the hottest months, August and September. This is also Hurricane season and the southern portion of Baja is more susceptible to storms. For the most part, Baja goes from Mediterranean to arid. Anyone with a home in their favorite community and a camper, RV or trailer could literally stay in perfect weather all year round.

In the United States and Canada having a beautiful ocean front property is going to cost you a fortune, but this is a possibility in Baja for a fraction of the cost. Housing and property in Baja can be found for a very reasonable amount. Whether you are looking to buy or rent you can find property, houses or condominiums in all different price ranges, starting as low as a couple thousand dollars. You can find condominiums and houses rentals for as cheap as $300.00 a month. It all depends on what you are looking for. Buying a home, or buying land and building a home, both can be done, at almost any budget. This is another benefit to owning property in Baja. The property taxes are a fraction of what you pay in the U.S. or Canada. It is even possible to get a 79

• A common question overheard during the moving process is “when did we get so much stuff ?” It’s amazing how much a family can accumulate over the years and yet, all that “stuff ” is what makes a house a home. We have mapped out the typical moving process below to help in planning for the big day. Enjoy.

• • • • •

The time it takes to pack is often underestimated, give yourself at least two weeks for an averaged sized home if you want to avoid serious headaches...or backaches... later. Here’s a few tips we have picked up along the way: • New boxes are strong and stack easily • Label, Label, Label • Keep packed boxes in one room • Clean as you go

Moving is a great time to get rid of the things you no longer use, there are many places that will give unused items a new life. Consider donating to: • Charities • Religious Groups • Goodwill • Savers • or have a Yard Sale!

The majority of Baja communities have available storage facilities. Here are some things to consider when comparing storage companies: • Location: chose a place close to your new home. • Climate Control: climate control will 80

preserve your belongings. Deposit: if a deposit is required make sure to ask how and when it will be refunded Price: as always, to get a few different prices to compare Unit Size: do not pay for space you will not use. Access Hours: make sure the hours are convenient. 24 Hr. On-site Management Facility Layout: can you get a moving truck to your unit?

Many people in Baja will rely on their airconditioning during the summer months to keep their homes cool. While there are times when air conditioning is a good choice for cooling, there are other less energy intensive ways to regulate the household temperature. We will start with some basic techniques for controlling heat gain that can be applied to any home, then move on to more advanced construction methods and materials. During the hottest parts of the year in Baja, we focus on lowering the indoor air temperature. To do this, start by looking at the house from the exterior. Our goal is to minimize the amount of heat entering the home from outside. The roof, south and west facing walls and windows of a building receive the maximum amount of solar exposure and are responsible for the majority of heat transfer to the interior. Shading these surfaces will greatly reduce the heat gain in the house. Shade for the walls can be created with structures such as porches or palapas, or by planting trees or vines. Windows are best shaded with exterior shutters, overhangs or interior curtains. Flat roofs can also be shaded with plants, or with shade cloth or a double roof system with an airspace. White or other light colored paints reflect the suns rays and also help keep the interior cool. Another possibility for an existing home is to apply rigid insulation to the exterior of the building, then re-stucco over the insulation. These tips will reduce the load on your a/c system and therefore reduce your monthly electric bill. But what if you want an even lower electric bill or to eliminate it totally? In these cases, we look back to the time proven tactics employed by our ancestors, people who lived in similar climates to ours before mechanical refrigeration was available. Today we call these techniques ‘passive cooling.’ Our ancestors called it ‘common sense.’ Centuries of trial and error have provided us with some extremely effective cooling strategies.

In fact, the first ice creams were produced centuries before mechanical freezers, in the hot arid environment we now know of as Iran! Natural ventilation - using only air movement to cool the home and occupants - refreshing sea breezes can be incorporated into the building design through cross ventilation. High thermal mass - the ability of a material to absorb heat during the day and release it at night. To be effective the thermal mass material must be exposed to the interior. A house is considered to have average thermal mass when the exposed mass area is equal to the floor area. (a concrete slab floor provides average thermal mass). High thermal mass is achieved when exposed mass area is 3 or more times the area of the floor. Evaporative cooling - cooling the interior by evaporating water. During dry weather, this is often accomplished with terra cotta water pots, fountains and plants. High thermal mass with night cooling - relies on the thermal mass’s ability to slowly absorb heat from the day, then by opening the home at night, cooler night air is allowed to recharge the mass. Windows and doors are open at night and closed during the day. Mediterranean cultures have used these concepts for centuries. The stone and adobe houses of Greece and Egypt are excellent examples of low-tech ways to maintain comfortable indoor temperatures. The whitewashed exteriors of the houses reflect the sun’s rays and thick adobe walls provide the necessary high thermal mass. Courtyards and narrow streets provide shaded areas for evaporative cooling through fountains and foliage, while creating stack effect natural ventilation during day and cool air pooling at night. Incorporating these time-tested strategies into a building design can greatly reduce and often eliminate the need for air conditioning. Notice how much larger the comfort zone can become with passive cooling! 81

Rachel & Her Dog Cai on Bret Currier in Loreto (July2009). Photo by Rachel Pack.

For an orphaned, abandoned or stray dog or cat in Baja, life is not an easy journey. Nor is it a particularly long journey. With so many limited resources and a culture that once embraced indifference rather than compassion, homeless animals in Baja have long been subjected to abuse, neglect, disease and even group elimination referred to as “round ups”. These street animals can often pose a risk to humans also. They are likely to be infested with ticks, fleas, mange and can even pose a risk of rabies. Past options to deal with a staggering increase in street animals were cruel and senseless until compassionate and motivated individuals from Baja and across the border decided to do something. Together and with a lot of financial backing, several incredible and ambitious groups have cropped up along the peninsula over the past few decades; all with the goal of making life better for animals that deserve love and care. Battling against the ingrained cultural differences, these fearless and passionate volunteers take it 82

upon themselves to find the resources to fund spay and neutering projects, clean and care for mange and ill animals, find homes for the homeless, and give any animal in need the love and care they deserve. Against great odds, especially when it comes to financing and being overwhelmed by the sheer number of animals, these groups continue to persevere and make a real difference where it is desperately needed. With the generosity and compassion these groups and others provide, looking for nothing in return, the homeless, injured and hungry animals that were once discarded and forgotten are now being helped. While it may be impossible to give every animal a home, these groups work diligently to help one innocent creature at a time. Other groups throughout Baja have also helped pave the way for better treatment of stray or homeless animals. Each and every one of these organizations is in constant need of funds and volunteers. Visit your local shelter, bring food, money, give your time, foster an animal or adopt if you can.

dog or cat make sure they have the proper vaccinations. Always treat your pets with a flea and tick medicine.

Most of us animal lovers would not dream of traveling or moving to Baja without the family pet. After all, it is a member of the family too! Bringing your pets to Baja with you is easy, and it is likely many of you do it all the time, or have at least once. It is very likely that you did it with none of the steps listed here. That being said, I think it is good that you are aware of the rules, because the rules are there to protect your pet. If you want to bring your pet to Baja, you are supposed to need two pieces of paper; a vaccination certificate to ensure your pet has been vaccinated against hepatitis, rabies, leptospirosis and as you’ll find listed frequently, PIP vacination, which is an acronym for “performance improvement projects”, which is not defined on either the United States or Mexican customs websites, so do you really need it? Having crossed the border numerous times with my dog, and having never been asked, I don’t think so. And lastly, you’ll need a vet’s health certificate, which must be issued within 72 hours before entering Baja. You can bring up to two large dogs or cats with you. Addition pets require additional permission from the Mexican consulate. You will need to contact the one nearest you; there is a list of consulates in the “Resource” section of this book. Stray dogs and cats are common in Baja and they can carry disease, so to protect your

Should you see your dog digging in the sand, you should check it out. There is a danger lurking on the beach: the puffer fish. This fish species belongs to the Tetraodontidae family. Unanimously considered one of the most poisonous vertebrates in the world, the liver and skin of this fish are highly toxic and extremely dangerous if eaten. Puffer fish live in the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez, and are sometimes found lying on the beaches of Baja. The culprit behind puffer fish poisoning is a neurotoxin called tetrodotoxin (TTX), found in varying quantities in a number of species, including the bodies of puffer and porcupine fishes, the skin of Atelopid frogs, and the eggs of horseshoe crabs. Symptoms of puffer fish poisoning are easily recognized. Shortly after ingestion, the neurotoxin causes paresthesias, a tickling, pricking, and numbing sensation, described in everyday language as a feeling of pins and needles. It occurs in the lips, tongue, and face, and frequently in the arms and feet. If a person or animal has eaten puffer fish recently, they will experience persistent paresthesias together with excessive salivation, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain.

It is a family affair in San Felipe Photo by Kelly Quinn.

that crazy about it myself, but it’s far more unnerving for our furry friends. Several years ago, during one of the races, a wonderful female dog was run over by a race vehicle. Her owners thought that she was safe, because she was just hanging out as she always did in front of their house. But a fast moving vehicle ran her over, and fortunately the driver paid all medical expenses and she survived the accident. Quite a trauma though, for her and the owners. When a race is about to happen down here, it is so important to create a safe haven for your pets, and other animals that hang around your property. Please keep your pets close to home, and inside, if at all possible, Imagine what it’s like for them with all the sudden chaos. Fireworks often go with the weekend festivities, and the loud bangs are extremely traumatic for dogs and cats as well. This is a great time to really give extra attention to any animals in your life. No matter how hectic it gets, make time for your loyal companions. A sure way to lose your dog or cat is to leave them outside during loud weekends in Baja. Mark my words, as soon as the race is over, you’ll see the flyers posted around town, offering rewards for dogs that simply “freaked out” and took off, and are probably still running as I write. So, be smart and take precautions. Whenever you know that fireworks, loud noises, and pandemonium is about to be unleashed, protect your animals. Here’s a tip: If your animal is the type that gets overly anxious, don’t hesitate to try antianxiety products. Go ahead and sedate them if necessary—let them sleep through the whole weekend. Several sedatives are available over the counter, especially here in Mexico. If you’re going to administer some of your own drugs, remember, less is always better.

These early symptoms quickly get significantly more serious. The victim displays impaired motor function, general weakness, and difficulties in breathing and speaking. After four hours, a rapidly ascending paralysis occurs, which can affect the respiratory muscles. If left untreated, as often happens with dogs, the neurotoxin can cause cardiac dysfunction, seizures, and coma. Death may occur after 4-6 hours, generally due to respiratory paralysis and failure. Quite unexpectedly, many people in Japan consider the flesh of the puffer fish a delicacy. In some restaurants, customers can enjoy dishes based on puffer fish, known locally as fugu. Highly skilled chefs prepare fugu in a manner meant to reduce its toxicity. In spite of this, many people fall ill every year due to puffer fish consumption. The best way to protect your pet from puffer fish poisoning is to watch them at all times. If the dog seems very attracted to something lying on the beach, make sure it is not a puffer fish. Should animals display any symptoms of puffer fish poisoning, get them to a veterinarian as soon as possible. One can reduce the effects of puffer fish poisoning by administering activated charcoal. This prevents the body from absorbing the toxin. However, since respiratory failure is a real danger, the person or animal affected by the neurotoxin should receive medical assistance until the effect of the poison disappears.

With the Baja 250, 500, 1000 and many other off-road racing event each year, I thought it might be appropriate to discuss some of the problems local street dogs and pets face when it comes to extremely fast moving vehicles and loud noise. It’s no secret, of course, that dogs everywhere are scared to death of fireworks and other loud noises, such as race vehicles, ATVs and fireworks. You don’t need a Ph.D. in dog psych to know that one of the most stressful times for our animals down here is when the community is overrun with race enthusiasts. I’m not all

very popular, innocent looking plants. Be especially careful before you decide to spray your house, or hire an exterminator. Do some research, check the internet, find out what the active ingredients are in the product you or your exterminator is using. Your precious animals are extremely vulnerable, and I promise you, when living in another country like Mexico, we need to do the due diligence, and be responsible for our choices, no matter what anyone tells you. Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and ASPCA Senior Vice President, has done the research, and here is a list of plants that are the most common and potentially dangerous to your pets. Lilies, Sago Palm, Tulip/Narcissus bulbs, Azalea/Rhododendron, Oleander, Castor Bean, Cyclamen, Kalanchoe, Yew, Amaryllis, Autumn Crocus, Chrysanthemum, English Ivy, Peace Lily (AKA Mauna Loa Peace Lily), Pothos and Schefflera. This list might shed some light on why your small dogs experience gastric problems, diarrhea and vomiting from time to time, with no rhyme or reason. Although not fatal, these symptoms might very well be related to these plants and most importantly to dangerous insecticides. Remember, small breeds, and young puppies and kittens are especially vulnerable.

A good friend of ours watched as her eight week old Pomeranian puppy died violently after the dog was exposed to pesticides sprayed at her house---even though the exterminator assured her the product was safe. Another friend had their seven pound Chihuahua mix exposed to insecticides on their property. The dog became very ill, began throwing up, became lethargic, and they thought they were going to lose her. Quick thinking took them to the vet, where she was put on an IV drip, so that she didn’t get too dehydrated; very quick, smart thinking. Had they not done that, she probably would have died. It was touch and go for five or six days, and during that period, no matter what they fed her, she threw it up. Now, this is a dog that has had all her shots, so we knew we weren’t dealing with Parvo or Distemper, which are usually fatal diseases in puppies and small dogs under four pounds. After lots of intravenous fluids, electrolytes and Nutri-Cal, a hi-calorie, thick toothpaste type product that comes in a tube, she began to round the corner and survived. She is back to normal now, but I assure you, that this is the exception to the rule. Dogs, puppies and kittens that are most vulnerable, are often very small, with very tiny young immune systems that absolutely do not tolerate toxins, such as insecticides and some

During spring and summer, it’s all about your house and garden, and unfortunately, for those of you with small breed dogs and puppies, you should be aware there can be serious health problems resulting from the ingestion of insecticides and various plants. 84

Ralph and Patricia Conner by by Tony Aguilano.

Pemex tried to take away the concessions from a large number of these for low-quality oline (often cut with up to 40% fuel oil) and for not serving the correct amount of gasoline (many serve only 9 litres for every 10 registered on the pump), however a judge ruled these were “not reasons to take away the concessions”. The grades of Pemex gasoline are “Magna” (regular unleaded 87 octane—green pump handle) and “Premium” (92 octane—red pump handle). Previously, Pemex offered a leaded gasoline called “Nova”, but this has been discontinued for environmental reasons and also due to stringent health regulations.

The Comisión Federal de Electricidad (English: Federal Electricity Commission) is the Mexican state-owned electric monopoly, widely known as CFE. It is the dominant electric company and the second most powerful stateowned company in Mexico after Pemex. The Mexican constitution states that the government is responsible for the control and development of the national electric industry, and CFE carries out this mission. CFE is not a part of the North American Electric Reliability Corporation, though its transmission system in northern Baja California is part of the Western Electricity Coordinating Council; and it also has a few other interconnections across the border with United States.

The Comisión Estatal de Servicio (English: State Public Service Commission) is responsible for the operation of water treatment plants for the public safety of water in Baja California. They are a body of the Government of the State of Baja California, and it is their job to provide drinking water and sanitation to the people. It is governed by an administrative council that is headed by the State Executive and consists of officials from different orders of government and citizen representatives. The Comisión Estatal de Servicio takes care of the operation of the collection system and wastewater treatment at pumping systems and water treatment plants, and is responsible for the construction and expansion of the necessary arrangements to do such. They also do repair and maintenance of networks, metering and billing of consumption, and take care of the general administration of the agency. The mission of the Comisión Estatal de Servicio is to provide safe water in sufficient quality at the lowest possible price. They encourage water conservation as an essential means to the life of the communities in which they serve as these communities continue to develop. They aim to achieve timely and quality service to the entire community and implement programs and decisions that are beneficial to coordination in all areas. They also promote the updating of laws and regulations that enable available clean water to be available to the public.

Petróleos Mexicanos or Pemex (Spanish pronunciation: [peemeks], Mexican Petroleum), headquartered in Mexico City, is Mexico’s state-owned petroleum company. With total assets worth $415.75 billion, it is the second largest company in the world by market value (as estimated by the Financial Times in 2006). However, the majority of its shares are non-publicly listed and under control of the Mexican government. The value of its publicly listed shares totaled $102 billion in 2010, representing approximately one quarter of the company’s total worth. Asphalt and pitch had been worked in Mexico since the time of the Aztecs. Small quantities of oil were first refined into kerosene around 1876 near Tampico. By 1917 commercial quantities of oil were being extracted and refined by subsidiaries of the British Pearson and American Doheny companies, and had attracted the attention of the Mexican government, who then claimed all mineral rights for the state as part of its Constitution. Pemex is the sole supplier of all commercial gasoline (petrol/diesel) stations in Mexico. All petrol stations, although labeled Pemex, are concessions that are strictly full-service. 86

044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #)

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS Mexico City: (011) 52-55, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Guadalajara: (011) 52-33, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Tijuana: (011) 52-664, plus the 7-digit telephone number.

DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some charges may apply when call 800 numbers internationally, please check with the telephone carrier. 800 DIALING to the USA From MX (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800 dial 880 To Dial USA 866 dial 883 To Dial USA 877 dial 882 To Dial USA 888 dial 881

USA to MX Cell Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to MX Landline: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) MX to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 87

IMPORTANT NUMBERS: Emergency dial 132 free from any phone and Mexican cell phone carriers • Red Cross 066 • Police Dept. 060 • Fire dept. 068 • Electricity 071 • Legal Assistance 061 • Tourist Assistance 078 • Tourism Department 078

International Activation: Dial “+” plus 1-505-998-3793 from your cell phone or landline to reach T-Mobile Customer Care internationally. Dialing to Mexico from USA: Dial “+” plus (52)(1) (10 digit local number) Dialing Locally in Mexico: Dial “+” plus country code plus 10 digit local number. Dialing Long-Distance within Mexico: Dial “+” plus country code plus 10 digit local number. Dialing to USA from Mexico: Dial “+” plus country code plus 10 digit local number Dialing Internationally from Mexico: Dial “+” plus country code plus 10 digit local number.

It can be useful to carry a cell phone with you when you travel in Mexico. Whether you want to call ahead to book a room for the night, find yourself running late to meet friends, or lose your way while exploring a new city – it is convenient and reassuring to have easy access to information without having to search for a local payphone. That said, even seasoned adventurers in Baja California may have a few questions about which US carriers and networks are the best to use while in Mexico, how to roam efficiently, and how to dial back to the United States. If you’re using your cell phone in Baja, chances are that you have one of the four main US wireless services: T-Mobile, AT&T (Cingular), Sprint or Verizon. You may have an easier time calling throughout Mexico with T-Mobile or AT&T, since they cover a lot more territory. All of the major wireless networks will charge you extra to roam internationally, from as little as $0.59 to $1.49 per minute plus a monthly flat fee. More importantly, most plans require you to activate the international roaming service before you even leave the United States. To be safe, it is a good idea to check with your own wireless carrier before you leave for Baja to make sure that your phone has been activated for international roaming. Once you are in Mexico with a successfully activated phone, you should have no trouble calling either locally or home to the United States.

Requires Activation? Yes. Activate before you go by calling 1-800-331-0500. If you have trouble roaming while in Mexico, call + 1-916843-4685 International Activation: Dial “+” plus 1-916-843-4685 to reach AT&T International Customer Care. Dialing to Mexico from USA: Dial “+” or (011)(52)(1) (local number). Dialing Locally in Mexico: Land Line: Dial 011 52 (local number) Mobile: 011 52 1 (local number) Dialing Long-Distance within Mexico: Dial 011 52 (local number) If it is a land line. Mobile 011 52 1 (local number) Dialing to USA from Mexico: “+” plus country code… or 001 plus 10 digit local number Dialing Internationally from Mexico: Dial “+” (country code) ( ten digit local number)

Requires Activation? Yes. Before you leave the USA, verify that your international roaming has been activated added by dialing *611 or (800) 922-0204. International Activation: Dial 001 (800) 711-8300 to reach the Verizon Global Support Team. Dialing to Mexico from USA: 011 52 1 (10 digit local number)

Requires Activation? Yes. Activate before you go, which you can do online if you like. You can activate it by calling 611 on your phone, or 1-800-937-8997 from any other phone 88

Dialing Locally in Mexico: 7 or 8 digit number Dialing Long-Distance within Mexico: 01 + city code + 7 digit number Dialing to USA from Mexico: Dial 001 + area code + 7 digit number Dialing Internationally from Mexico: Access Code

Notes on carriers: • With most T-Mobile and AT&T phones, the “+”key will appear on screen if you press and hold down the “0”key. • Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey phone numbers consist of a 2 digit area code plus an 8 digit local number • If you don’t want to get an international data plan, or pay large roaming data fees, suspend your data while away or remove your SIM card from your cell phone. Call your service provider to find out the best way to avoid astronomical data charges. Verizon Wireless customers calling local wireless subscriber in Mexico: 044 + city code + 7 digit number Verizon Wireless now also offers a “Nationwide Plus Mexico” with unlimited long distance to the US and Mexico

Requires Activation? Yes. Activate before you go by calling 1-888-226-7212. International Activation: Dial 001 (817) 698-4199 to reach Sprint International Customer Care Team Dialing to Mexico from USA: 011 52 1 (10 digit local number) Dialing Locally in Mexico: 011 52 1 (10 digit local number) Dialing Long-Distance within Mexico: Dial as if calling from a land line in Mexico Dialing to USA from Mexico: 00 1 (area code) (10 digit local number) Dialing Internationally from Mexico: Access Code plus Country Code plus 10 digit number.

AT&T (Cingular) customers: To check voicemail while roaming internationally: 1. Press and hold voicemail retrieval key on your device (typically the “1” key) 2. Interrupt your personal greeting by pressing “*” 3. If requested, enter your voicemail password 4. In some cases you may reach the main voicemail greeting. Just enter your 10 digit wireless number and then follow steps 2 and 3. International roaming charges apply.

Requires Activation? Yes. Before leaving USA, call 1-888-226-7212. International Activation: From your Nextel phone dial “+” (817) 698-4199 to reach Sprint International Customer Care Team. Dialing to Mexico from USA: N/A Dialing Locally in Mexico: N/A Dialing Long-Distance within Mexico: Dial as if calling from a land line in Mexico. For Sprint-provided Nokia GSM phones, press the “+”key twice until a “+”appears on your phone’s screen. Dialing to USA from Mexico: Dial “+” key (this automatically dials Mexico’s access code) plus 1 (US country code) plus 10 digit phone number. Dialing Internationally from Mexico: Dial “+”key (this automatically dials Mexico’s access code) plus country code plus telephone number

T-Mobile customers: To check voicemail while roaming internationally: 1. You can access voicemail anywhere in the world by dialing plus sign (“+”) followed by 1-805-MESSAGE. 2. Interrupt the message by pressing the * (star) key 3. If the star key does not work, hang up, redial and press # key 4. Enter your four digit password Unless you switch your device off or activate Unconditional Call Forwarding on your device, you will be billed for all calls delivered to your voice mail box while roaming internationally. 89

use in Spain since the launch of GSM services in 1995. After purchasing BellSouth mobile operations branch in South America, the name became effective worldwide on April 5, 2005. It is the biggest carrier in Spain with 22 million customers (cellphone services only) and it also has the widest coverage in Spain. It offers GSM 900/1800 MHz (2G), UMTS 2100 MHz (3G) and HSDPA (3.5G) services. Its principal competitor in Latin America is America Movil, which is Telcel in Baja.

Mobile to Mobile minutes are only available through your T-Mobile USA network, not when roaming internationally.

If you’re going to be in Baja for any length of time, it would be a good idea to get a Mexican cell phone. It will save you on local calls and depending on the plan, could save you a lot of international calls. There are two major cell phone company in Baja; Telcel and Movistar. Telcel is Mexico’s largest mobile phone carrier, owned by América Móvil. Founded in 1989 and based in Mexico City, Telcel is the leading provider of wireless communications services in Mexico. As of December 31, 2006, Telcel’s cellular network covered more than 63% of the geographical area of Mexico, including all major cities, and 90% of Mexico’s population. Telcel holds concessions to operate a wireless network in all nine geographic regions in Mexico using both the 850 megahertz and 1900 megahertz radio spectrums. As of December 31, 2007, Telcel had approximately over 57 million cellular subscribers and, according to Cofetel, as of July 2008, an approximately 77.2% share of the Mexican wireless market. Telcel offers voice services under a variety of rate plans to meet the needs of different market segments. The rate plans are either postpaid, where the customer is billed monthly for the previous month, or prepaid, marketed under the “Amigo” brand, where the customer pays in advance for a specified volume of use over a specified period. Telcel also offers several prepaid plans, none of which includes activation or monthly charges. Prepaid customers purchase a prepaid card for a specific amount of airtime and also receive additional services such as voicemail and caller ID. As part of its prepaid service offering. Movistar is a major mobile phone operator owned by Telefónica Móviles. It operates in Spain and in many Latin American countries. Many Movistar networks were acquired from BellSouth. The Movistar name has been in

Telcel Amigo & Moviestar Top-Up credit can be purchased in a variety of ways. The most common is an electronic recharge at convenience stores (Oxxo, Extra, Walmart, Mega, Soriana) or authorized stores throughout the peninsula. You can now recharge via the internet; www.prepaidwireless.com, www. prepaid.com, www.topup.com, recarga. movistar.com.mx, or www.telcel.com/.

Your credit is typically valid for 90 days. Purchasing more credit will extend expiration of all your credit. If you do not purchase more credit before it expires, you will not be able to make calls or send messages. Your phone will continue to work for receiving calls and/ or messages. Purchasing more credit will re-activate all previous unused credit - credit continues to rollover as long as you add new credit every 60 days. You can loose your number if you do not add more value to your number, your number will cancelled and your unused credit will be lost.

The Telcel Amigo service number is *333. Dial that and follow the menu. Option #1 is to check your balance and Option #2 is for adding new credit by entering the number from the back of your Amigo phone card. An alternate way to check your balance is by entering *133# and pressing your call button. You will receive a text message with your balance and expiration date. 90

MB /GB Included

Price Pesos

Text

1 hour

100 MB

$12.00

alto1h

1 day

150 MB

$49.00

alto1

2 days

300 MB

$79.00

alto2

7 days

1 GB

$169.00

alto7

15 days

1.5 GB

$249.00

alto15

30 days

3 GB

$399.00

alto30

Validity

As of April 10, 2010, registration of your cell phone number is no longer optional. You need to go to a authorized Telcel location and providing registration information. Registering your phone (actually your SIM card) benefits you in two ways. First, you no longer hear the recording “Estamado usario...” each time you make a phone call. Second, if you lose your phone, you can transfer all remaining credit from your account onto a new SIM card and keep the same phone number. These services can be performed at any authorized Telcel location.

Average Consumption: Recommended to send and receive emails, instant messaging, social networks and moderate browsing websites.

Telcel officially launched its 3G (850Mhz Band) services on February 25, 2008 initially in the cities of: Guadalajara, Hermosillo, Mérida, León, Morelia, Monterrey, Tijuana, Puebla, Santiago de Querétaro and México D.F.. then expanded to other cities to finally become a national 3G network which will reaches more than 350 cities. Telcel’s 3G network is based on UMTS / HSDPA technology. Internet Movistar setrvice is fully mobile with coverage through out Mexico to connect with your friends on your favorite social networks, download files, send and receive email, from your phone or computer. With this technology, the users now have high speed internet, video calls, television and other media options in their phones including the postpaid and prepaid customers.

Validity

MB /GB Included

Price Pesos

Text

1 hour

30 MB

$9.00

medio1h

1 day

50 MB

$29.00

medio1

2 days

100 MB

$59.00

medio2

7 days

400 MB

$99.00

medio7

15 days

1 GB

$299.00

medio15

30 days

2 GB

$339.00

medio30

Low consumption: Recommended to send and receive emails, IM and Social Networking moderate use.

To activate or add minutes to your Telcel 3G USB modem: 1. Once you’ve added minutes or activated the card, put the SIM card from the USB Modem into your phone, after you finish text you will put the SIM card back into the modem. 2. The text message will determine the length of activation and the consumption: Consumption High: Recommended to send and receive emails, instant messaging, social networks and total Internet navigation.

Validity

MB /GB Included

Price Pesos

Text

1 hour

10 MB

$5.00

bajo1h

1 day

30 MB

$19.00

bajo1

2 days

50 MB

$39.00

bajo2

7 days

200 MB

$59.00

bajo7

15 days

600 MB

$199.00

bajo15

30 days

1 GB

$299.00

bajo30

3. Once you selected your service plan, send the text message from the phone to the number 5050. 91

U.S. and Canada, and it costs $25.24/month with taxes. More details about this plan go to www.phonepower.com

In recent years, VoIP services have become more and more popular thanks to the decreased costs, versatility of the plans, and the generous calling features. VoIP can be very useful especially for individuals who need competitive prices for international or long-distance calls. Many VoIP service providers offer useful calling features for free, features that traditional phone carriers provide at an extra cost. However, the VoIP market is so crowded that sometimes it’s difficult to make the right choice. To help you decide, here is a short description of the best VoIP service providers.

Skype Skype is famous not only for its free video calling, but also for affordable VoIP services. The affordability means that some features are absent, but you will have call waiting, voicemail caller ID and call transfer. It’s extremely easy to set up Skype for VoIP calling; just install the app, no hardware installation required. Skype allows you to use your current phone number, or pick another number with the area code you want. Support options include FAQs and tutorials. The app is so easy to use, it’s unlikely to ever feel the need for tech support. For $6.99/month, you have unlimited calls to mobiles and landlines in the United States. Go to www.skype.com/en/rates/ to see all the rates.

Vonage This is one of the oldest and most successful VoIP companies that have services designed specifically for residences and small businesses. Vonage has very simple setup: connect the adapter to the internet, connect the phone to the adapter, and then start making VoIP calls. Vonage also comes with exceptional customer care through FAQs, forums, tutorials, troubleshooting sections, phone, and email. The list of features includes call transfer, call waiting, caller ID, 3-waycalling, and caller ID block. The downside of Vonage is that it functions based on an annual contract, and additional fees are required for early termination. There are several plans available, including unlimited calls to United States from Mexico for $9.99 per month for the first 3 months, then $25.99/month plus taxes and fees with a 1-year agreement. Go to http:// lp.vonage.com to learn more about this plan.

MagicJack In the past years, MagicJack has been getting a lot of attention, mostly because of its call quality and low prices. MagicJack can be used both on the computer and on any kind of phone. The device currently costs $49.00, and the amount is paid after 30 days of free trial. The device comes along with directory assistance, call waiting, voicemail & caller ID, and the option to keep your previous phone number. This service provides some very attractive benefits: free calls to United States and Canada from anywhere in the world, and free calls to another person who uses the device. Lear more about MagicJack on www. magicjack.com/.

Phone Power This VoIP service provider offers numerous calling features, including call transferring, call return, 411 directory assistance, additional free line, virtual numbers, and Enhanced 911, which is a feature that automatically transmits your information to the 911 dispatcher. The new user can do the setup quite easily based on the detailed documentation available on the website. Phone Power provides three types of plans: two-year, one-year, and month-tomonth. Remember that terminating the contact earlier will bring a fee, so choose wisely. The international plan provides free calling to the

Lingo This VoIP service provider is among the best, mainly because of its unlimited international calling plans. Even though it lacks call transfer, Lingo offers other common features, such as voicemail, call waiting, speed dial, caller ID, call blocking, and Enhanced 911. The new user will receive a free adapter that allows VoIP calls via phone. Customer service by phone and email is available 24/7. Lingo offers two very competitive plans called World Unlimited and World Select for $23.95. Go to www.lingo. com/voip/residential/world.jsp to see all the 92

limits well over the ones accepted by Mexpost. For small packages sent to North America, Estafeta claims it has the fastest delivery and most competitive prices: Documents 3-5 working days, Monday - Friday (delivery at mailing address) Nondocuments: 4+ workings days depending on the customs process.

features of these two plans. It may seem daunting in the beginning to switch to a completely new kind of technology, but it will be worth it. The call quality will stay the same, but the phone bill will be considerably smaller. Talking with friends and family around the world has now become considerably easier and cheaper with VoIP.

Doc: US & Canada

Include ½ kg/waybill

Price in USD

$17.00

Overweight

$ 2.30

Non-doc: US & Canada

Correos de México Also called Sepomex, was initially established as a state-run institution. In 1986, the increasing pressure exerted by competing private companies and a necessity to make the service more efficient, led to the creation of what is now known as Mexpost. The services provided by Mexpost are more expensive, but also more reliable than the ones offered by Sepomex. Mexpost accepts packages in the limit of 55 lbs. and 40 inches in size. To enquire about the cost, call 800-701-4500 or visit the closest postal office. To find the closest postal office, visit www.correosdemexico.gob.mx/ and use the form provided. Use the first two drop-downs to choose your state and your municipality. From the drop-down called Tipo Servicio choose Mexpost Internacional (EMS) for international shipping or Mexpost Nacional for shipping in Mexico. Click Buscar in the bottom right corner and search through the list. Once the package is on its way, you can track your package on the website with the tracking number provided by Mexpost.

Include ½ kg/waybill

Price in USD

$25.00

Overweight

$ 2.30

Source: http://www.estafeta.com/ In order to enquire about prices, it’s best to contact Estafeta or visit a local postal office. Call 01800 estafeta (37 82 33 82) or search for an office www.estafeta.com. Enter your tracking number to track your package after you hand it over to Estafeta. Baja Pack Express People who live in the Baja Peninsula can rely on Baja Pack Express for Package service. This is a private company that covers the entire country and a part of US. If you want to send a package to another part of the peninsula, go to www.bajapack.com/Form_Cotizaciones. aspx to figure out what it may cost you. For international shipping, contact Baja Pack Express 664-621-21-36 or find an office www. bajapack.com/sucursales.aspx in your city. The Mexican postal system has been improving constantly in the past years mostly due to the fact that the competing companies seem genuinely concerned with offering reliable and affordable services.

Estafeta Carga Aérea Another Mexican postal service company is Estafeta Carga Aérea, a cargo airline based in Mexico City with offices all over the country. Estafeta accepts very large packages, with 93

Estafeta Carga Aérea, a cargo airline based in Mexico City with offices all over the country. Estafeta accepts very large packages, with limits well over the ones accepted by Mexpost. For small packages sent to North America, Estafeta claims it has the fastest delivery and most competitive prices: In order to enquire about prices, it’s best to contact Estafeta or visit a local postal office. Call 01800 estafeta (37 82 33 82) or search for an office using this online tool. Enter your state and municipality and pick the office that is most convenient for you. Enter your tracking number on this page to track your package after you hand it over to Estafeta. People who live in the Baja Peninsula can rely on Baja Pack Express for postal service. This is a private company that covers the entire country and a part of US. If you want to send a package to another part of the peninsula, just use this online calculator to figure out what it may cost you. For international shipping, contact Baja Pack Express 664-621-21-36. So if you need to send some items to US, it may be useful to first check what Mexican companies have to offer. The Mexican postal system has been improving constantly in the past years mostly due to the fact that the competing companies seem genuinely concerned with offering reliable and affordable services.

Even though electronic mail has almost completely replaced traditional mail, there may be situations when the latter may be useful, even vital. In order to be prepared when the need arises, you have to learn a few facts about the postal services available in Mexico. Correos de México, also called Sepomex, was initially established as a state-run institution. In 1986, the increasing pressure exerted by competing private companies and a necessity to make the service more efficient, led to the creation of what is now known as Mexpost. The services provided by Mexpost are more expensive, but also more reliable than the ones offered by Sepomex. Mexpost accepts packages in the limit of 55 lbs. and 40 inches in size. To enquire about the cost, call 800-701-4500 or visit the closest postal office. To find the closest postal office, visit www.correosdemexico.gob. mx/ServiciosLinea/Paginas/copostales.aspx and use the form provided. Use the first two drop-downs to choose your state and your municipality. From the drop-down called Tipo Servicio choose Mexpost Internacional (EMS) for international shipping or Mexpost Nacional for shipping in Mexico. Click Buscar in the bottom right corner and search through the list. Once the package is on its way, visit www. correosdemexico.gob.mx to track it with the tracking number. Another Mexican postal service company is 94

Once you make the move either part-time or full-time to Mexico, you are going to want to know how to receive your mail from the US. Be aware that mail delivery in Baja is slow, but generally not too bad. Typically you will have to wait 2-3 weeks for a package that is coming from the States, and if it is held in customs it may take a little longer. There are, of course, countless stories of mail lost or taking months to arrive. Knowing where to go for what type of mail you want to send or receive while living as an expat is pertinent in making your new life here as comfortable as possible. It is possible to receive mail in Mexico with a US Post Office Box or physical address. There are a variety of businesses in Mexico that will have your US mail shipped to their office where you can pick it up. You will essentially rent a mailbox with a US address, a service will pick up your mail for you, and you can pick it up at a business that caters to US mail.

www.postall.com.mx/index.php This service provides a mailing address in San Diego, CA through the USPS. They provide a P.O. Box, a physical US address where you can receive packages and transport them to Mexico after clearing customs, and a physical address in Mexico so you may receive packages. Anything received at PostAll will be held at the office for you or sent to your home for an additional fee. PostAll has offices in the following locations: Tijuana - Nox Tijuana Centro Operaciones (664) 683-7000 Ensenada - Postall Ensenada (646) 1205415 PoBox International (646) 176-0095 Mexicali - Nox Mexicali (686) 576-7600 San Felipe - Yet Mail (686) 577-1255 Sunrunner (686) 577-0365 Múlege - Maderas Selectas (615) 153-0468 Todos Santos - Postall Todos Santos (Multiservicios Miro) (612) 145-0702 San José del Cabo - Postall San José del Cabo (624) 130-3403 Cabo San Lucas - Mail Boxes Cabo (624) 143-5533 95

than 4 years • Has the right to carry out remunerated activities • Can bring along other members of the family: spouse, children, concubine, parents; the family members also have the right to stay in Mexico for 4 years and work. • Temporary ResidenHas the right to stay in Mexico over the duration of courses, studies, and other academic activities • Has the right to work in a field related to the subject of study • Has the right to bring along other family members Permanent resident • Has the right to stay in Mexico without any restrictions • Permanent resident status is granted to the following categories: • People seeking political asylum • Relatives of a permanent resident (spouse, child, parent, concubine, siblings) • Retired and pensioned people • Individuals who have stayed in Mexico for more than 4 years • People who have children born in Mexico • Descendants of Mexicans • People who meet the requirements of the Point System The best part of the new law is that a foreigner can apply for permanent status after only 4 years of temporary residence. There are two shortcuts to the permanent resident status: marriage with a Mexican (two years required) and the Point System. This Point System will allow people to obtain this status earlier depending on their education, skills, work experience, and knowledge in specific areas of interest such as science and technology. If you already have an FM2 and FM3 visa, your visa will remain valid until its expiration day. After that, you will have to apply for a renewal according to the new law. It remains to be seen how the Mexican authorities will put these significant changes into practice. The procedure that people need to complete in order to obtain the visitor or resident status is also bound to change considerably.

The new immigration law contains a variety of changes, and some of them are particularly relevant for expats living in Mexico. President Felipe Calderon signed the law in May 2011, but its enforcement was postponed to 2012. The public has access to the immigration law, Ley de Migración, but the whole regulations and requirements leading to its implementation are still to be published. The most significant change of the Ley de Migración is related to the FMM’s system which is now obsolete. This FMM system is replaced with 9 immigration statues that fall into two categories: visitors and residents. Visitor without the right to carry out remunerated activities • Has the right to stay in Mexico for a maximum of 180 days Visitor with the right to carry out remunerated activities • Has the right to stay in Mexico for a maximum of 180 days • Has received an offer of employment in Mexico • Has an invitation from a Mexican institution • Has a seasonal job which was offered as a result of inter-institutional agreement between foreign entities Regional visitor • Citizens or residents from neighboring countries have the right to enter and exit Mexico whenever they wish if their stay does not exceed 3 days and if they do not get involved in remunerated activities Cross-Border Worker Visitor • A foreigner from neighboring countries has the right to reside and work in Mexico for up to one year Visitor for humanitarian reasons • An individual that has been injured as a result of a crime having taken place in Mexico • An unaccompanied child or adolescent • Political refugees Visitor that comes to Mexico for adoption • The visitor can stay in Mexico until all formalities for the adoption are fulfilled Temporary resident • Has the right to stay in Mexico for no more 96

Voting By Prolife.

and the ballot has not arrived, you may contact the election official. If the ballot has still not arrived right before the election day, you may use a back-up Federal Write-In Absentee Ballot. The back-up Federal Write-In Absentee Ballot is available to people who fulfill these three conditions: • They are absent from the voting residence • They have applied early enough to allow the election official to send the ballot back in time • They have not received the ballot after following the regular procedure The Federal Write-In Absentee Ballot has to be mailed to the election official. If the regular ballot arrives late, it also has to be completed and returned to the election official who will make sure that only ballot is taken into consideration. The request for an absentee ballot is usually done in January. The main reason for this is that the same request can cover all elections that take place during the year. Since procedures can differ from state to state, make sure you read the comprehensive guide provided by FAPV.

With less than two months left until the presidential elections, many American residents of Baja would still like to support their favorite candidate. This can be done easily via an absentee ballot. The first step in absentee voting is registration. Currently, most states require prior registration with a Federal Post Card Application. The easiest way to find out if registration is necessary or to initiate registration is with the help of the wizard provided by the Federal Assistance Voting Program (FAVP). The voter registration works as a ballot request, and it can be sent to your local election official. A full list of election officials is available here. Postage is free if the form is sent in an envelope printed with the postage-paid envelope template provided by the FAVP. One notable aspect in the whole process is the postmark. The postmark is used to determine if the request was sent before the deadline. Even though you may send the envelope in a specific day, the postal facility might postmark it later. To avoid this, you may ask an employee to make a hand stamp which should clearly show the date when the envelope was sent. Once the envelope is mailed, each state is expected to provide the ballots 45 days before the election. If the elections are due in 30 days 97

In the past decades, Pemex has seen its oil reserves shrinking rapidly. In 2006, Mexico was declared the 6th oil producer in the world. However, the production started to decline at a steady rate, and the future prospects of the oil industry were not too bright. The Mexican government can now see the light at the end of the tunnel with the discovery they made in the Gulf of Mexico, just off the coast of Tamaulipas state. Sources inside Pemex estimated that the reserve of Mexico has now increased by 350 million barrels. This finding is momentous in some other respects. This is the first deep-water location that Pemex will use for oil production. In addition, as the research continues, the entire area is expected to yield somewhere

between 4-10 billion barrels of oil. The crude oil discovered recently is also qualitatively superior to the one Pemex had so far, which means it is easier to refine and process. Despite the general excitement, Mexico still has a long way to go until the first barrel will be extracted. In fact, Pemex CEO Juan Jose Suarez Coppel said that the company will need another 6 years until production will start in the area, mostly with the help of underwater robots. The recent success is partly due to the reforms carried out inside Pemex which allowed private investment. At this point, it seems that the future of energy in Mexico relies on the deep and almost completely inaccessible waters of the Gulf of California.

Recent developments in the energy policy in Mexico have produced changes in the prices at the gas station. In fact, the gas price has steadily increased in the past months, and it will continue to do so throughout 2013. The price increase is due to several factors that are specific to Mexican oil industry. Pemex, the state-owned petroleum company is currently under the scrutiny of the government that intends to reform it considerably. In the past years, the oil reserves have been dwindling as the opening of new oil rigs requires considerable investment. The situation is rendered even more difficult as Mexico does not have sufficient refineries, so it relies heavily on importation for its domestic consumption. The lack of appropriate refining facilities is

part of the basis of the current U.S. – Mexico energy trade. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, Mexico is the third largest supplier of crude oil to the U.S. During year 2012, Mexico exported around one million barrels of crude oil per day. It also imported around six thousand barrels per day of petroleum products from the U.S. An analysis of oil imports vs. oil exports in the past years shows a clear increase in U.S. exports to Mexico and a decrease in U.S. imports from Mexico. So as the crude oil production in Mexico decreased, its domestic demand for refined petroleum products increased. So far, the prices have been kept at a low level compared with the US through price control and subsidies. During the 1st trimester 98

car owner will eventually be expected to pay around $130 pesos to fill the tank. Here is the current level in gas prices in Baja California and Baja California Sur compared with Mainland Mexico and the average U.S. cost:

of 2013, the subsidy reached 23.1 million Pesos (1.9 million dollars). The government will carry out a gradual change in gas price levels so that it will catch up with the current level on the international market. Each change will add about 9-11 centavos to the price. A Last Update Aug-12-2013

Magna per liter $MXN

Premium per liter $MXN

Diesel per liter $MXN

$11.69

$12.25

$12.05

Gal. in $US

$3.49

$3.64

$3.60

Liter in $CAN

$0.95

$1.00

$0.98

MX Pesos to $US

$12.7

MX Pesos to $CAN

$12.3

purchased only in the northern border area, Mexico City, and Guadalajara. Starting with 2007, all Diesel vehicles manufactured in US have been designed for ULSD. There has been a lot of debate over the impact of LSD on newer diesels that run on ULSD. Many experts and owners agree that LSD does not affect the performance of the vehicle. The real issue lies in the fact that a person might lose their warranty for some components in case they use LSD on a ULSD vehicle. The efforts of the Mexican government to make ULSD available have met with limited success so far. Owners of vehicles which run on ULSD can purchase the fuel in Northern Baja. Unfortunately, PEMEX gas stations located in Southern Baja sell only LSD fuel brought from the mainland. To find the stations with ULSD, look for the words “bajo azufre”, which translated means “low-sulfur“, below the word “Diesel” on the gas station signage.

Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) is the type of diesel fuel which has very low sulfur content. ULSD is more environmentally friendly as compared with Low Sulfur Diesel fuel (LSD). Starting with 2006, ULSD has been widely available across North America and Europe. This occurred because the countries from North American and Europe adopted new emission standards which involved extensive use of ULSD. Some countries from the rest of the world took similar measures while others lagged behind. In 2004, a team of experts set up a plan which would substantially improve the quality of air in Mexico. The main recommendation of this plan was to have Mexico comply with the new emission standards already in use in many countries. Even though the Mexican environmental agency (SEMARNAT) stipulated that PEMEX should make ULSD widely available by 2009, it did not implement any new emission standards. As a result, PEMEX failed to meet the deadline, and ULSD can be 99

A document which proves American address, and an international credit card. citizenship - passport, birth certificate, The applicant who chooses the online option or voter registration card; will not be able to use the birth certificate as • The vehicle title; a proof of citizenship. Those who receive the • The vehicle registration; permit by mail will need to take the documents • The leasing contract, if the vehicle was used during the application process and show leased or rented; • If the car belongs to a company, them at the border. a documents which shows the relationship between the company and the applicant; Permanent importation of vehicles means • The driver’s license issued outside that you can keep the car for an indefinite period Mexico. on Mexican territory. In addition, the imported Each person will need to provide the original documents together with copies. The car will be considered a Mexican vehicle, and it copies have to be taken to a Banjercito Office will have Mexican registration plates. Since the process is significantly more available at every border crossing. Along with the documents, the applicant will be required complicated as compared with the temporary to submit a declaration that stipulates that the importation procedure, the applicant will be vehicle will be taken out of Mexico once the required to hire a customs broker. The customs permit expires. The procedure comes with broker will gather all the required documentation a fee of around $50 for a regular car and a and submit it for review. The expenses include recreational vehicle. the fees due to the customs broker and an The payment can be made in cash or with import duty, which varies according to the type an international credit card. In addition to the and age of the vehicle. fee, each person must pay a guarantee deposit Once the importation procedure is completed that varies between $200 and $400, depending successfully, the owner of the vehicle will on the age of the vehicle. Once the procedure need to go to the Departamento de Registro is completed, you will receive an import permit de Control Vehicular and submit the proof of and a hologram that goes on the windshield. importation that bears the name of pedimento. The vehicle and the permit have to be returned, This institution will issue the new license plates and on this occasion, the deposit will be necessary for the vehicle. refunded. The date when the permit is returned People who might find the whole process should not exceed the 6 months deadline. cumbersome can simply sell the car they have in This process can be completed at the border, the US and purchase another vehicle registered but you can also apply at Mexican consulates in US or online on the Banjercito website: in Mexico. Many cars, both new and used, http://www.banjercito.com.mx/site/siteBanjer/ are available at extremely affordable prices. Irrespective of the circumstances or the Bicentenario/iitv/instruccionesIITV.html For applications placed at the consulate, duration of your travel to Mexico, it is advisable the same documents will be required. During to purchase Mexican Auto Insurance. Even if the online application, you will need to provide you have an American policy, which states it some additional information: date when you covers the Mexican territory, the authorities travel to Mexico, email address, physical from Mexico will refuse to accept it as valid. 101 •

Offroad Racer by Stephen Ganus.

Depending on your plans, you might need to import your car into Mexico. Whether it is permanent or temporary, the importation process has to follow the existing procedure implemented by the General Administration of Customs in Mexico (Aduana). Those who drive their vehicles within the border zone (roughly 12.50 miles/20 km. south of the border) do not have to worry about importation requirements. Additionally, The Free Trade Zone, which is all of Baja California Baja California Sur and Sonora as far south as San Carlos/Guaymas are exempt from the importation process. However, foreigners who plan to go beyond San Carlos/Guaymas have to obtain an importation permit, temporary or permanent. 100

Any person who plans to visit Mexico or stay here for a longer period will first need to apply for a visa. Americans who own a Tourist Visa (FMM) can keep the imported vehicle in Mexico for a maximum of six months. The new Temporary (formerly FM3) and Permanent (formerly FM2) visas allow extended residence on Mexican territory, over 6 months. Those who own this type of visa can apply for temporary importation and keep their car in Mexico until the visa expires. When the visa is renewed, the importation permit will automatically be renewed, as well. Apart from their visa, applicants will need to bring the following documents with them to the customs:

The men of “Checkpinmt Carley” and Baja entertainer Denny Flannigan pose for a photo after the Mexican military helped Danny with transportation and fixing two blown tires. This photo first appeared in the March 2009 edition of Mexico Living magazine. Photo courtesy of Denny Flannigan.

New facts show that not only is Mexico are approx. 75 million boomers in the U.S., safer than nearly all other popular travel which represents almost 30% of the total U.S. destinations, but the United States is population, plus another 6 million north of the substantially more dangerous with more U.S. in Canada. In Canada, baby boomers are being forced crime than Mexico. They are lying to you. Don’t let yourself be to postpone retirement, says the Conference manipulated with lies and misdirection, know Board of Canada, an Ottawa-based thinkthe truth. The U.S. media are telling you lies. tank. According to their survey, 21 per cent of You may ask, why would they do that? The respondents overall -- and about one third of answer is simple - money. They want your baby boomers -- are “saying they have been money. Why did cigarette companies not tell forced to delay retirement.” Imagine if 81 million people all realized that you their product was unsafe? Money. The U.S. economic crisis with bank bail outs, they could still retire; that their dream of retiring rising unemployment rates and a real estate in a warm and welcoming place could still be a market on life support, along with declining reality. What would happen if 81 million people market conditions, cost of living increases, realized that what was left of their savings, real medical insurance, etc. and etc., it has left one estate and retirement would get them through of history’s largest demographic groups high their golden years? I don’t mean on pinching penny’s and coupons, but on a beach resort, and dry. Baby Boomers are reaching retirement age or quiet fishing village with all comforts they’ve to find their financial security has been reduced dreamed of all this years. Now, imagine if 81 millions people knew to a faction, or in the case of many it has evaporated completely. Their golden years and they were in far more danger right now in their own homes, then they would be in Baja. What life’s savings all but stolen. The United States Census Bureau considers if 6 million Canadians, knew they could still a baby boomer to be someone born during the get 6 months a year on the warms sands of demographic Post-World War II baby boom, Baja. What impact would it have if 30% of the between 1946 and 1964. In 2011, that would U.S. population, stopped paying so much for make you between 46 and 64 years old. There insurance, groceries, taxes, etc? 102

The real truth is that Baja is safer than the U.S. The reality is that any American in Baja is safer than if they were to return to the United States and any Canadian spending 6 months in Baja, greatly increase their chances of not being a Canadian crime statistic. Did you know the United States is the most crime ridden country in the world? It’s true, at least according to Nation Master, a website that produces statistics based on the CIA World Factbook along with many other sources. It has the United States ranked #1 El Numero Uno! for the TOP 82 COUNTIRES WITH THE MOST CRIMES. The United Kingdom came in at #2, Germany at #3, France at #4, followed by Russia at #5, with Canada in at #8. Italy comes in at #9, with India and it’s 3 billion people coming in at a respectable #10. Mexico doesn’t show up until #12. The most interesting fact is that the United States is almost twice the total crimes as the #2 country.

others you wouldn’t expect, but all of which are more dangerous than Mexico. The United States did better on the TOP 20 COUNTRIES WITH RECENT ASSAULT VICTIMS, but still in the “Top 10” at #9 with United Kingdom at #2, Australia and New Zealand tied at #3, and Canada at #5 with France coming in at #7. Mexico did not make the list.

In the TOP 60 COUNTRIES WITH THE MOST CRIMES PER CAPITA the United States In the TOP 46 COUNTRIES WITH THE ranks as #8 in the world for the country with MOST RECENT MURDER BY FIREARMS the the most crimes per capita, or more simply - United States is #4 with South Africa at #1, per person. The United Kingdom comes in at Columbia #2 and Thailand at #3 and Mexico #6 and Canada at #12, with France at #14 coming in behind the U.S. at #6. If you look and Italy at #19. You can find Mexico coming at the pie chart above, it gives you a visual to in much further on the list at #39 in the world. show that although some countries may be Kidnapping is always a big one people want listed sequentially; 3, 4, 5, the totals are not. to talk about when it comes to the Mexico’s false In the case of Murder by Firearms, the United “fear factor”, but when reviewing the TOP 38 States is #4 and Mexico is #6, but the U.S. is COUNTRIES WITH THE MOST KIDNAPPING, 9.3% and Mexico is only 2.6%. For the TOP 83 COUNTRIES WITH THE neither the United States or Mexico make the list. The United Kingdom takes #1 with Canada MOST RECENT MURDERS, India takes this taking #3, #10 is New Zealand, #11 is Japan, award, followed by Russia at #2, Columbia #12 is Switzerland, #13 is Italy, and many #3 and South Africa at #4, United States at 103

#5 with 8.2% and Mexico at #6 with a 6.7%. The TOP 65 COUNTRIES WITH THE MOST RECENT RAPES PER CAPITA has the United States ranking at #9, beating Australia at #3, Canada at #5, Jamaica at #6, Spain at #14, France at #15 with Mexico following the pack at #17.

just over the border to Baja and you’ll be safer than the United Kingdom, France or Italy, and most of the other places over there are cold anyways. The truth of the matter is the United States can not afford for Americans to go to Mexico, so they use negative propaganda, and exaggerated truths to scare their citizens into submission and the belief of lies, all in an effort to keep the dollar north of the border and all at the expense of those that don’t know the truth. Don’t let yourself be manipulated with lies and misdirection, know the truth.

Total Crimes overall: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_tot_cri-crime-total-crimes Crimes per capita: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_tot_cri_percap-crime-total-crimes-percapita Most Kidnapping: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_kid-crime-kidnappings Assualt Victims: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_ass_vic-crime-assault-victims Murder with Firearms: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_mur_wit_fir-crime-murders-with-firearms Most Recent Murders: http://www.nationmaster. com/graph/cri_mur-crime-murders Rape per capita: http://www.nationmaster.com/ graph/cri_rap_percap-crime-rapes-per-capita Most Rapes: http://www.nationmaster.com/graph/ cri_rap_vic-crime-rape-victims Drug Offense: http://www.nationmaster.com/graph/ cri_dru_off-crime-drug-offences

Of the TOP 19 COUNTRIES WITH THE MOST RECENT RAPES TOTALS, New Zealand is #1, Australia at #5, followed by United Kingdom at #6, and Canada taking #7, France at #10, Italy at #11 and the United States receiving an unlucky #13 with a 28.9%. Mexico AGAIN did not make this list. One of the most interesting statistics is the TOP 60 COUNTRIES WITH DRUG OFFENSES. In all the categories, many proud American patriots would be ashamed of the United States rankings and astonished at the lies they’re being told. But this category is the proactive countries taking a stand against drugs and making drug related arrests. This is the category I would expect to find the United States ranking the highest, proudly holding it’s All this and more can be found at head high for the 30 plus years of a successful NationMaster, a statistical treasure trove “War on Drug” campaign. Instead, the United Kingdom comes in with everything you never knew you wanted the closest to the hardest working anti-drug to know about the world’s numbers. It’s an countries at #2, Canada proudly ranking #3, online database of more than 500 statistical Switzerland at #5, Italy at #8. Mexico and it’s comparisons and growing fast. All statistics on this document are cited. “war on drugs” put it at a highly respectable #12 and the United States only showcasing it’s If you are concerned about authenticity and efforts at lowly #41 of a total of 60 countries authorship, please view the “Source:” field, found below each graph on the Nation Master making drug arrests. They are lying to you. Mexico is safer than website www.nationmaster.com. Or when the United States. Mexico is safer than Canada. viewing country statistics, click the “View with Why take a European vacation, when you travel citations” link below the bottom of the page. 104

Mexico’s President Enrique Pena Nieto

Year 2013 has been particularly eventful from a political point of view as the new president of Mexico took office and the citizens of Baja California have elected a new governor. Here is a short guide about Mexican politics with a focus on the President of Mexico, the governors of Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur, and on the parties that play a role on both national and local level.

Enrique Peña Nieto came out victorious during the July 2012 general elections in Mexico. He took office on December 1st replacing President Felipe Calderón. Nieto has been a member of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) since 1984. His political career started in the early 90s, but he obtained his first prominent position in 2005 when he became Governor of the State of Mexico. His activity as a governor offered him enough political capital to help him obtain on November 27, 2011 the nomination as the PRI candidate for the next presidential elections. The final election count declared Nieto a winner, with 38.21 % of the votes, 6.62 % more than the votes obtained by candidate Andrés Manuel López Obrador. The latter challenged 105

the result and accused PRI of electoral fraud. In September, the Federal Electoral Tribunal declared the elections valid and Enrique Pena Nieto became the new president-elect of Mexico. Right after he took office, on December 2nd, Peña Nieto announced the creation of the Pact for Mexico – a pact that was concluded between the presidency of the republic and the three parties: PRI, PAN and PRD. The pact covers numerous aspects: social rights and freedoms, economic development, employment, security, justice, transparency, corruption, and democratic governorship. The pact was criticized from the very beginning that it was a mere political act and it did not reflect real consensus on these important matters. Also, the pact seemed to be too vague and open to interpretation on some important topics, such as the energy reform and the fiscal reform. Despite the criticism, until now the pact has yielded results on education reform and telecommunication reform. The education reform was officially announced on February 26, 2013. The main aspect of the reform was the introduction of a standardized national test that would serve as basis for the assignment of teaching jobs. Since the practice of selling

or passing down teaching jobs had been the norm for many years, the reform caused a lot of discontent among teachers. The introduction of standardized tests does not address some other equally pressing issues that negatively impact the quality of the education system: class size, inappropriate curricula, and poorly maintained schools. The telecommunication reform was signed into law on June, 10 and published a day later. The main purpose of the reform was to increase competition in telecommunication, so as to provide better, more accessible services to Mexicans. Hopefully, the reform will produce an increase the use of internet in Mexican households which is currently at only 38.4%. The changes are expected to have considerable impact on the monopolistic status of America Movil that has about 70% of both mobile and landline subscribers. Regarding the broadcast television sector, which is controlled entirely by Grupo Televisa SAB and TV Azteca SAB, the changes will be equally important as two new digital networks will enter the market. Another important component of his policy is the Crusade Against Hunger that was launched officially on January 2013 and that is supposed to benefit around 7.4 million Mexicans who live under the poverty line. The ceremony took place in Chiapas – one of the poorest Mexican states. The program comes along with several goals: to eliminate hunger among poor people, especially children, increase the efficiency of agriculture, and promote the participation of beneficiary communities. With respect to the security policy, Enrique Peña Nieto stated ever since the beginning of the electoral campaign that he plans to focus more on mitigating violence and he promised that he will decrease the homicide rate by 50%. This ambitious goal will supposedly be reached with the help of a gendarmerie that is expected to be formed and trained at least in part by September 2013.

Castro Trenti. The vote count, which was initially contested by PRI, placed Vega de Lamadrid at 47.1% of the votes, three points ahead of Castro Trenti. Vega de Lamadrid became member of PAN in 1989 and he won his first elections in 1998 when he became mayor of Tijuana. He competed for the gubernatorial nominations in 2001 and 2007, but he was unsuccessful. In 2009, he became involved on a national level as a member of the Committees on Transportation, Population, Borders and Migration Affairs, and of the Commission to Strengthen Federalism. This victory of Francisco Vega de Lamadrid continues the 24 year-long domination of PAN over Baja California. This event boosts the confidence of PAN in the aftermath of lost presidential elections.

Marcos Alberto Covarrubias Villaseñor took office as the governor of Baja California Sur on April 5, 2011 after winning the race against the PRI candidate Ricardo Barroso Agramont. Even though BCS had been a PRD stronghold for around a decade, Villaseñor had no problems in attracting enough votes for PAN during the elections of February 6, 2011. Villaseñor started his political career as a PRI member and he continued as such until 2010 when he switched to PAN. During his PRI years, he was mayor of Comondú between 2005 and 2008 and he was federal deputy in the LXI Mexican Legislature. Shortly after his break with PRI, on November 3, 2010, he was nominated for the gubernatorial race. He took 40.35% of the votes, almost 7 points ahead of the PRI candidate.

Institutional Revolutionary Party (Partido Revolucionario Institucional – PRI) The PRI was the ruling party in Mexico for the best part of the 20th century since its foundation in 1929 up until year 2000. Over the Francisco Vega de Lamadrid was elected decades, the party changed its name twice, governor of Baja California on July 7, 2013 and it has adopted a center-left political stance. when he defeated PRI candidate Fernando The undisputed hegemonic position of PRI 106

started to get challenged during the mid 80s by both right and left-wing parties. Accusations of corruption against party members combined with the immoderation of López Portillo term led to a gradual delegitimization of PRI. In 2000, the PRI candidate Francisco Labastida Ochoa lost the general elections to Vicente Fox – the National Action Party candidate. After 12 years in opposition, the PRI is back at the helm with Enrique Peña Nieto as president. National Action Party (National Action Party – PAN) PAN was founded in 1939 as a way to find a peaceful manner of changing the country in the aftermath of the Mexican Revolution. The platform of the party is on the right-wing side of the political spectrum. PAN functioned as an opposition party until 1992 when it managed to win the governorship in some states. Year 2000 marked the success of PAN presidential candidate Vicente Fox against PRI candidate Francisco Labastida. In 2006, Felipe Calderón brought a second victory to his party by getting slightly more votes than his rival Andrés Manuel López Obrador. The dissatisfaction of the general public with the PAN years created the perfect opportunity for PRI to come back to power in 2012.

Labor Party (Partido del Trabajo – PT) This left-wing party was founded in 1990, but it failed to become a national party in the 1991 federal elections because it did not obtain more than 1.5% of the votes. Later on, in 1998, the PT became affiliated with the PRD and was a part of the 2000 “Alliance for the Good of All”. In 2006 and 2012, PT supported Andrés Manuel López Obrador and consequently landed on the losing side. Ecologist Green Party of Mexico (Partido Verde Ecologista de México – PVE) The only major green party in Mexico was founded in 1993 with a center-right platform. PVE participated in the 2000 elections alongside with the National Action Party and the “Alliance for Change”. The alliance with PAN broke down in 2003, so PVE allied with PRI for the 2006 and 2012 elections. The party’s campaigning in favor of the introduction of the death penalty in Mexico led to its repudiation by the European Green Party. Citizens’ Movement (Movimiento Ciudadano – MC) Initially known under the name of “Convergence for Democracy”, the Citizens’ Movement is a center-left party founded in 1998. In 2000, MC was part of the unsuccessful PRD “Alliance for Mexico”, and in 2006, it allied with the second unsuccessful PRD coalition called “Alliance for the Good of All”.

Party of the Democratic Revolution (Partido de la Revolución Democrática – PRD) PRD was founded in 1989 by ex-PRI party members and other left-wing politicians. At its beginnings, PRD incorporated many small left-wing parties: the Mexican Communist New Alliance Party (Partido Nueva Alianza Party, the Unified Socialist Party of Mexico, – PNA) the Socialist Mexican Party, and the Unified The party was created in 2005 by the Socialist Party of Mexico. National Union of Education Workers under the During the 2000 general elections, the leadership of Elba Esther Gordillo – a former PRD participated under the leadership of Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas who obtained 16.6% PRI member. Though small, this right-wing of the votes. In 2006, Andrés Manuel López party participated independently in both 2006 Obrador lost the elections after obtaining 0.58% and 2012 general elections and obtained a less votes than Felipe Calderón. Obrador’s modest number of votes. So these are the basics that one needs to party accused their rivals of electoral fraud, but the results were eventually validated by know in order to understand politics in Mexico. the Federal Electoral Tribunal. During the 2012 Especially in the Baja Peninsula, political elections, Andrés Manuel López Obrador lost decisions can have a major impact on the life of again, this time getting 6.62 % less votes than expats and snowbirds, so always stay updated Nieto. on what’s happening on the political scene. 107

Hurricane season runs from June 1st until have a full and properly equipped emergency November 30th. While each year experts make kit. The two most obvious items to have in very educated predictions concerning the your kit are food and water for 3 to 7 days. One number and severity of storms for each given gallon per person per day is the basic guideline season, hurricanes can still wreak a massive recommended by experts. The emergency food amount of devastation and chaos on any area supply should be non-perishable items along despite todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advanced warning systems. with a manual can opener. The kit should also Hurricanes are a force no one can fully contain any special food that family members guard against. As mere obstacles in the path of may need, such as baby food or food that these intense storms, we and our homes and allows for any allergies. belongings are at its mercy; yet there are steps Since there is never any way to determine we can take to prepare ourselves and increase how long an emergency kit will have to last, the likelihood that we and our loved ones will other items besides food and water must weather the storm safely. The most important be included. A fully stocked first aid kit, thing any family can do is to be prepared before which also contains any special medicines a storm is set to arrive. It is never too early to or prescriptions, can be a literal lifesaver in 108

the aftermath of a hurricane. Be sure to pack flashlights, batteries, and a radio to stay in touch with what is going on around you. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the needs of the family pets also. They too need adequate food and supplies. Keep a crate or leash on hand in case you need to evacuate with the pets. Your supply kit should also contain important paperwork that needs to stay dry and within reach. This may include copies of medical records, insurance policy papers and banking documents. Tools are also a good idea to have in your kit. You may be able to repair minor damage to your home, preventing further water or wind damage before you are able to get any help. Once it has been determined that a hurricane could possibly make landfall and affect your area, there are steps you should take immediately. Your vehicles should be completely full of fuel. You never know when an evacuation order will be given or exactly how many miles away you may need to flee. All cell phones should be fully charged in case power is out for an extended period of time. You may also want to keep a supply of cash on hand. If there is no power for days, cash machines and banks will not be able to accommodate your money needs. Do your best to secure your home and belongings. Use plywood on windows, secure boats and outdoor furniture, use fasteners on the roof to help prevent damage and lock up everything you possibly can. While these items and tips can help make life a lot easier when a hurricane is coming, there are steps you should take long before the season even starts. It is vital that you and your family discuss a comprehensive evacuation and communication plan. Each member should know to get in touch with a common contact far from the area. This will let one person know exactly where and how everyone else is in case family members are separated. Also, plan a

meeting safe spot for all members to converge upon when it is safe. Once you have made all the proper preparedness plans that you can possibly make ahead of time, stay informed. When a hurricane is on the way, stay tuned to your local authorities. Listen to multiple sources, such as radio, television and internet warnings. If the local authorities are telling your area to evacuate, follow their directions. If you can stay in your home, stay in a small interior room. Close all of the other doors and keep shades and curtains closed to minimize any glass dangers. Stay as low as possible also. While it is impossible to guarantee you and your home are 100% safe and sound during a hurricane, taking the time to follow these simple tips can decrease damage, loss, and certainly the headaches that the storm is sure to leave behind.

1. Stay out of damaged buildings or homes until they are properly inspected for safety 2. Never attempt to cross flood waters. 3. Stay away from stray or loose animals 4. Stay away from mosquito infested areas, like standing water. These are prime conditions for disease. 5. Be aware of carbon monoxide poisoning dangers from generators, camp stoves, ect. 6. Boil water or drink bottled water. Never drink water that smells or had unusual color. 7. Be on the lookout for mold. Remove any water-logged carpets or furniture as soon as possible.

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To set up a business in Mexico, one will probably need to hire an attorney and/or accountant, who will be able to guide the company through the process and help to determine the best corporate accounting and tax structures for the company. Under the Foreign Investment Law of 1993 and the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) most economic activities in Mexico, whether in manufacturing or services, are 100 percent open for participation by foreign investors. Only a few areas are completely restricted or limited to minority participation. Some areas which previously have been reserved to the government, especially in the infrastructure sectors, are now being opened to private investment. Also, certain areas such as financial services, which previously have been reserved to Mexican investors, are now also available to foreign investors.

Limited Liability Stock Corporation (Sociedad Anónima, S.A. de C.V.) The principle advantage of an S.A. is that the shareholders only are liable for an amount up to the value of their shares for the obligations and debts of the company. However, as in the U.S., the board members are personally responsible for the prudent management of the company. This company must have at least two, and can have up to an unlimited number of shareholders, whose shares are freely transferable by endorsement. The minimum fixed capital required to establish this type of company is $ 50,000 pesos (US $ 4 500) of which only 20 percent needs to be paid at the time of incorporation. This type of company is also required to have an examiner (usually an accounting firm) that is in charge of ensuring the proper and legal management of the company. Limited Liability Company (Sociedad de Responsabilidad Limitada, S. de R.L.) This is similar to a closed corporation in the U.S. This type of company has the same limited liability as an S.A. The minimum capital is only $ 3,000 pesos (U.S $ 270) of which 50 percent 110

needs to be paid at the time of incorporation. This company must have at least two partners and can have no more than 50. Further, a limited liability company is not forced to have an examiner, which can reduce costs associated with hiring an accounting firm. Unlike an S.A., the S. de R.L. does not have as many legally established corporate formalities. For both the S.A. and the S. de R.L. the option of variable capital (capital variable) can be established, thus permitting the increase or decrease of capital with minimized formalities. Civil Enterprise (Sociedad Civil, S.C.) Professional service providers, such as lawyers and accountants, use this form of corporation, which has no minimum capital requirements. There are no limits on the number of partners in a Civil Enterprise, but each one is jointly and personally liable for obligations and debts. Branch Sucursal Instead of incorporating an entity in Mexico, some companies choose to register their existing foreign company as a branch in Mexico. To register, the foreign company must obtain approval from the Foreign Investment Commission, which is under the Economy Ministry (Secretaría de Economía) and the Ministry of External Affairs (Secretaría de Relaciones Exteriores). The branch must also be registered with the Public Registry of Commerce (Registro Público de Comercio). Once registered, the branch will be required to file taxes in Mexico for its Mexican-source income. The foreign company will also respond, with all its assets, for any liabilities that it incurs in Mexico. For this reason, many larger foreign corporations choose to incorporate a separate entity in Mexico, as discussed above, so that the liability is limited to the assets of the Mexican company. Subsidiary (Subsidiario) Unlike a branch, a subsidiary is actually a separate legal entity from the parent company. Establishing a Mexican subsidiary shields the parent company from liability. Company formation Once the company form and ownership issues have been resolved, the investor will need to follow the steps below:

company will need to obtain zoning permits, identifying use of land, from municipal authorities. In the metropolitan area of Mexico City many industrial activities are restricted, and business operations in residential areas are strictly controlled. Environmental Regulations. To carry out manufacturing activities, the company must first submit an environmental impact statement with the Ministry of the Environment Natural Resources and Fisheries (Secretaría de Medio Ambiente, Recursos Naturales y Pesca, SEMARNAP). The company may also need special permits for air or noise emissions, water discharge or solid waste. Health or Sanitary Licenses. Any activities that involve food preparation or manufacturing of medicines or health products require licenses from the Ministry of Health (Secretaría de Salud) and local health authorities. Commercial intermediary. A commercial intermediary is a limited agency, avoiding a permanent establishment in Mexico. The intermediary can perform market research, promotion, solicitations, negotiation of sales, and will provide Mexican clients with information, prices, payment policies and forwarding and processing of orders. However, the intermediary should not have the power to enter into contracts on behalf of the foreign resident. Thus, the intermediary acts as a showcase, performing “preparatory or auxiliary” services for the foreign resident. This activity will avoid a permanent establishment or fixed base. It is customary to advise the commercial intermediary to refrain from using the name and logo of the principal in his office, business cards Once the company has been formed in and letterhead. This will avoid the appearance of Mexico, it may start operations. The following impropriety. requirements should be considered and applied Distributorship agreement. A distributorship for if needed: agreement provides the foreign company with Immigration VISA. Foreigners must secure an opportunity to further develop sales. Further, a business visa to work legally in Mexico. VISAs it offers service through a Mexican company may be obtained through the Ministry of Interior or individual who acquires the products from (Secretaría de Gobernación) or through Mexican outside Mexico, and resells the product in consulates abroad. The process usually takes Mexico. The distributor only functions as a 20 to 40 business days. A VISA allows you purchaser and wholesaler/retailer of foreign to receive income in Mexico. Note that lately company. This mechanism therefore, avoids business visa procedures have become quite being a permanent establishment. restrictive and time consuming. Licence of technology Other available alternatives for doing business Zoning Permit. In most urban areas the 111

Corporate Name. The investor will need to select a corporate name and register with SRE (Ministry of external affairs). Before SRE grants a permit for the name, it will check that no identical name is already registered. Proforma Agreement. Under Mexican Law, the foreign company will have to enter a proforma agreement whereby any non-Mexican shareholder is deemed to agree to be bound by Mexican laws and not invoke the diplomatic protection of his government. Charter and By-laws. An attorney can help the investor to prepare these documents that spell out corporate governance, corporate purpose, duration of existence, domicile, capital stock provisions, management powers and special provisions for liquidation. In addition, one needs to decide how capital will be subscribed, how the Board of Directors and officers will be appointed and what powers will be specifically granted to individuals. Also, it is a regular practice in Mexico to grant power of attorney. The charter and by-laws must be taken, along with the permit from SRE, to a notary public (notario público) to formalize the incorporation; which may take from 10 days to a month depending on the notary’s workload and his relationship with the attorney. If the incorporating shareholders are non-Mexican individuals, they may legally sign the charter if they hold a Mexican VISA (see immigration section below). If some of the shareholders are corporate entities, an individual with power of attorney for these entities must sign the document.

in Mexico is to enter into agreements for: • The license or authorization of exploitation of trademarks, patents or improvements, or industrial designs and utility models • The assignment of trademarks or patents; the supply of technical know-how, and, technical assistance in any form • The supply of basic or detailed engineering • The rendering of advisory, consulting and supervisory services • The license of copyrights that include industrial application • The licensing of computer programs Taxations: Foreign companies should keep tax issues in mind as they plan their crossborder operations, ensuring the lowest tax rates possible. Foreigners may do business in Mexico by employing a subordinate agent, establishing a Mexican company or acquiring stock in an existing Mexican company. The use of any of these methods will create a permanent establishment, and has the following tax and regulatory consequences: A) Corporate Tax A corporate tax must be paid annually on the company’s taxable profits. Such profits are calculated by deducting certain allowed expenses from the total accruable income. Most of the company’s income is considered accruable for income tax purposes at the time invoices are issued, or when goods or services are delivered to the buyer if no invoice is issued. Basically, the allowed deductions are all discounts and/ or expenses “strictly indispensable” for the business operation. Except for the first year of operations, all Mexican corporations must file their income taxes through monthly provisional payments. These provisional payments will be credited against annual income tax returns. B) Tax on Dividends Companies that distribute profits or dividends must, in principal, pay a tax on distributions when the rate is higher than 34 percent. However, if the company maintains a tax free Net Fiscal Profit Account, the tax on such distributions will be zero percent.

C) Tax on Assets There is a federal tax on corporate assets. This tax is applied on the fixed, financial and current assets of Mexican companies. The tax must be paid on an annual basis through monthly provisional payments. Payment of taxes on assets is not required during the preoperational period of a company, the first two years of its operation or when liquidated. D) Value Added Tax When the Mexican company transfers or leases goods, or renders services in Mexico, it will be obliged to pay Value Added Tax (Impuesto al Valor Agregado, IVA). This tax varies from state to state starting at 11% of the price of the goods or services and can be transferred to the clients by including the tax on its billing invoices. The tax rate is 11% within 20 kilometers of the border of Mexico and for Baja California. Also, if such goods and services are to be exported from Mexico, the IVA is zero percent. E) Payroll Taxes The company is subject to a local state payroll tax, at a rate that depends on the location of the working facilities. The Federal Government also taxes corporations with social security fees that amount to a minimum of 17.42 percent of the payroll, to be paid by the employer for sickness, maternity, old age, death, child care and retirement. The employer must also contribute to a Worker’s Housing Institute fee with the amount of 5 percent for each worker’s salary. The payroll taxes and fees are deductible for corporate income tax purposes. In addition to the tax provisions discussed above, there are also various provisions under Mexican law and different tax treaties that apply specifically to foreign companies earning income in Mexico. These provisions cover areas such as withholding obligations with respect to the tax authorities of each country, available tax credits, and taxes on dividends and royalties. Establishing a business in Mexico has many steps requiring guidance to determine the best corporate accounting and tax structures foryour business in Mexico; the Baja Good Life Club can help go to www.bglclub.com/2013-baja-goodlife-guide/discounts and click on Immigration Services.

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What follows are tips taken from a expat business owner running a business in Mexico for 10 years. These tips are very useful for business owners and non-business owners alike. Most expats will find themselves as business clients or in the position of hiring a care taker at some point, and the principles are the same. After starting a business in Mexico and running it for 10 years, you’d think you’d be an expert, but I’m afraid I still feel like a beginner. 1. Ask questions. Always consult with multiple sources, and ask lots of questions when you are looking for information. Maybe you have already discovered that people including Mexicans will tell you what you want to hear. Also, be wary of the information found via certain resources, like Internet message boards. I can’t stress how important it is to make pointed enquiries. For example, we had an experience in which we hired a carpenter to put in some windows and doors. The woodwork arrived and was beautiful. To our dismay, we not only found that the estimate did not include installation, handles, locks or hinges, but the carpenters had not brought tools nor enough laborers to complete the job. When we made the order, we made far too many assumptions about what it included without asking key questions.

payment, they expect that you’ll make payment without reminder. Expats often unintentionally hurt a Mexican’s feelings because they forget about a bill. If you have a good business source, don’t offend them by putting off payment. You could find yourself looking for a new supplier (heaven forbid that person is the accountant that you love!). In Mexico - it is your responsibility to know when it is time to settle an account without receiving a bill. An example is property taxes; property taxes are paid at the beginning of the year. Although no one in Mexico receives a bill for the tax, everyone knows that they must go and pay them. This form of not receiving bills extends to many things, including car insurance. Keep a calendar for important bills.

4. Be patient. Manana does not mean “tomorrow”; it means “just not today.” Take this as a mantra to live by in Mexico, or you risk forever being disappointed. To the majority of craftsmen and businesses in Baja, time is relevant only to today. You must help your vendors by creating deadlines. Set a date for delivery of goods and services, and confirm it in writing. A verbal date of “two weeks” or 15 days is not something you can count on. When pushed, if they have to write down 2. Find an accountant you can learn to love. a delivery date and sign it, most will think This is harder than it sounds, but it may a little harder about the date. Show the be the most important choice you make vendor the calendar too, so they can see as a business person. It took us three that 15 days might land on a Saturday, and, attempts to find our accountant. Again ask oh. . . by the way. . . that 15 days included questions. two weekends and a holiday that they didn’t consider (let alone a cousin’s 15 year old 3. Don’t expect bills. birthday). If time is critical - follow through When you agree to services with someone, regularly to make sure things are on time. don’t expect them to contact you for 113

5. Research your communication strategy. Find out the best way to contact your Mexican vendors and clients. Don’t assume that they will read your carefully drafted email invoice. Although they may have an email account, they may only check it when they feel like it, or when they can stop at a friend’s house to use a computer. This is something many foreigners don’t take the time to find out, and it’s often wrongly assumed that the vendor or client doesn’t want to work with you or has left town. Aways follow through by phone; try to use Facebook, this is becoming a useful tool as Facebook is easy and accessible on all Smartphones. 6. Know the law. Assume that all rules and regulations pertaining to your business must be obeyed. This is not the “wild west” where anything goes, but sometimes it is difficult to know what the rules and regulations are. Foreigners may watch as their Mexican neighbours seemingly do what they want without any regard for certain laws, but while the nationals may get away with it at least for a while, the foreigner most likely will not. Rather than get fixated on the fact that it isn’t fair - use all the skills, education and abilities that brought you to Mexico, learn the laws and do your best to follow the rules. The wonderful accountant you took so long to choose can really help you in this respect. They often have a vast network of skilled clients that can help you navigate the legal system. If necessary, consult a lawyer, especially when it comes to contracts. Lawyers are inexpensive as compared to the US and Canada, so don’t wait until you are in trouble.

and workman’s compensation, plus makes them eligible for low cost and subsidised loans on major purchases, such as homes and appliances. A good employee will stay longer if you pay this for them. Think of it as insurance you don’t want to be without. If an employee were injured on your place of business and she wasn’t covered, you could be responsible for her health care and compensation, potentially for the rest of her life. 8. “The worker is not your friend.” This is one of the hardest lessons I’ve learned. I have employees who have worked for me several years and I love them, but my accountant keeps telling me this. Just because you love them, doesn’t mean they won’t try to file a demand against you when it comes time for them to move on. There are a tremendous number of labor laws in Mexico, and it is important to know the ones that will keep you out of trouble. We have been sued by workers because we were trusting, ignorant of the law and because we didn’t understand the culture of work. For most employees, work is a job, not a career, regardless of what they think about you personally. For example, in Mexico, when a person quits, it is mandatory to pay them any accrued vacation and Christmas bonus. If you fire them, you must also pay them severance. This is similar to rules in other countries. The difference in Mexico is that they might quit and then make a legal claim that you fired them unjustly. If you don’t have any proof that they quit - they will win in mediation, claiming you are lying. Moral: Learn the labor laws, especially when it comes to money. Find out from your accountant what you can do to protect yourself, and when it happens (and it will), take it as a lesson learned and move on, after all, employee issues are universal.

7. Pay social security on your employees. You could be opening up yourself to troubles later if you don’t. Work with your accountant to minimise the taxes you need to pay, and if you value your employees, 9. Get to know your vendors and clients. Trust is established over time, by familial you will be happy to give them this benefit. relationships and over a meal between It supplies health care, some retirement 114

friends. If you are the vendor, take the time to go out to lunch, to shake hands and to ask questions about the other person’s family. Invite them to your home and to social gatherings. A Mexican trusts and does business with those who are friends. 10. YOU are responsible for your business. I can’t speak for other countries, but in the US, we expect things to function a certain way and we expect people to follow through when delegating authority or when paying someone to do something for us. Our business depends on it, and when it doesn’t happen, we feel justified in blaming

others. It doesn’t necessarily work that way in Baja California, Mexico, and my guess it isn’t that different in other parts of Mexico. If you arrange with someone to do a task for you and that task doesn’t get done YOU are responsible because you didn’t go with that person to make sure it got done. Above all else, don’t get discouraged. We almost quit several times the first three years - mainly because everything was so foreign to us. Now I can’t see myself going back. We love Baja, the Mexican people and have found a way to make a living here, despite the challenges. You will too!

The Mexican Labor Law is paternalistic When an employee files a suit against his with regard to employees. It strongly protects employer, he may choose (pursuant to Article the rights of its employees. In addition to 48 of the Mexican Labor Law) to request the the Labor Law, the Mexican Constitution Labor Authority to obligate the employer to establishes rights for employees. Section IX reinstate him to the same position he had held of Constitutional Article 123, for example, specifies that employees are entitled to a share when he was dismissed. This is very interesting of all profits that the employer obtained in the because if the Labor Authority resolves in favor previous year. As a rule, profit sharing occurs of the employee, and the employer does not in May each year. Even though employees need want to reinstate the employee, the employer to follow certain procedures and meet certain has to pay off the employee in accordance requirements for profit sharing, employees find with the law provisions referred to in the above this right very accommodating. paragraph. Sections XXI and XXII of Article 123, in turn, There are other legal rights for employees, states that if an employee is unjustly dismissed from his job, the employer is obliged to pay the but I would need several pages to explain them. employee an amount equal to three months On the other hand, employers do not need to of salary and twenty days of work for each be afraid; employees have rights, but they also year that the employee worked, as well as a have obligations. Therefore, employers have a proportional amount of any vacation and/or legal way to protect themselves in any labor Christmas bonus to which the employee was dispute that may occur, and the Mexican Labor then entitled. Furthermore, the employee may file a labor suit against the employer if he thinks Law also states rights for employers. Hopefully, he was unjustly dismissed from his job and the I will have an opportunity to write about rights employer has not complied with this obligation. for employers in the near future. 115

Mexican Pesos.

capitalized. The financial and banking sector is increasingly dominated by foreign companies or mergers of foreign and Mexican companies with the notable exception of Banorte. The acquisition of Banamex, one of the oldest surviving financial institutions in Mexico, by Citigroup was the largest US-Mexico corporate merger, at US $12.5 billion. In spite of that, the largest financial institution in Mexico is Bancomer associated to the Spanish BBVA. The process of institution building in the financial sector in Mexico has evolved hand in hand with the efforts of financial liberalization and of inserting the economy more fully into world markets. Over the recent years, there has been a wave of acquisitions by foreign institutions such as US-based Citigroup, Spain’s BBVA and the UK’s HSBC. Their presence, along with a better regulatory framework, Banco de México is Mexico’s central bank, has allowed Mexico’s banking system to an internally autonomous public institution recover from the 1994–95 peso devaluation. whose governor is appointed by the president Lending to the public and private sector is and approved by the legislature to which it is increasing and so is activity in the areas of fully responsible. Banco de México’s functions insurance, leasing and mortgages. However, are outlined in the 28th article of the constitution bank credit accounts for only 22% of GDP, and further expanded in the Monetary Law of which is significantly low compared to 70% the United Mexican States. Banco de México’s in Chile. Credit to the Agricultural sector has main objective is to achieve stability in the purchasing power of the national currency. It is fallen 45.5% in six years (2001 to 2007), and now represents about 1% of total bank loans. also the lender of last resort. A wave of acquisitions has left Mexico’s financial sector in foreign hands. Their foreignAccording to the International Monetary run affiliates compete with independent Fund (IMF), a intergovernmental organization financial firms operating as commercial banks, that oversees the global financial system, brokerage and securities houses, insurance says the Mexican banking system is strong, companies, retirement-fund administrators, in which private banks are profitable and well- mutual funds, and leasing companies. 116 The peso (sign: $; code: MN) is the currency of Mexico. The peso was the first currency in the world to use the “$” sign, which the United States dollar later adopted for its own use. The peso is the 12th most traded currency in the world and by far the most traded currency in Latin America and third most traded in all the Americas. The current ISO 4217 code for the peso is MN; prior to the 1993 revaluation, the code MXP was used. The peso is subdivided into 100 centavos, represented by “¢”. The name was originally used in reference to pesos oro (gold weights) or pesos plata (silver weights). The literal English translation of the Spanish word peso is weight. As of January 25, 2014, $10 pesos exchange rate was 13.45 US dollar, 112.14 Canadian dollar, and 18.40 Euros.

Checking bankcard, credit card or debit cards can all be used in Baja. Automatic Teller Machines (ATM) can be found at every bank, most supermarkets. The majority of them will only provide pesos, but some tourist areas also offer U.S. dollars. Banorte and HSBC offer the option for dollars. ATMs are linked to Cirrus, Plus and other major International networks, and are available 24 hours a day. It is recommended to call your bank and credit card companies prior to your trip to prevent deacctivation of the card, when you try to make an international charge. Most ATMs found throughout Baja are in English and Spanish, but the money value is always shown in Mexican pesos. When using an ATM, be aware of your surroundings and use the same common sense you would use anywhere else in the world. Try to use ATM machines at bank branches, or places your familiar with and cover your hand when inputting your PIN number, blocking any potential hidden camera, or nearby stranger from seeing the PIN. Always keep an eye on the credit card during all transactions. The allowable amount to withdraw from

the ATM daily is the amount your bank allows per day. The withdrawal fee is whatever fee your bank charges for international or out of network usage. Check to see if your bank has an agreement with a Mexican bank, it may save you on fees. For instance, Bank of America let’s you make withdrawals from ScotiaBank and Santander for no charge, but charges $5.00 USD when using ATMs at other banks. The ATM may not give you the fee during the transaction; the transaction detail it will be called an ISF charge. Most ATMs will also accept a Visa or MasterCard (with a PIN number) for a cash advance withdrawal. No ATM will allow a cash withdrawl without the PIN. There is a 4% to 6% credit card fee when using a credit card in Mexico and many retailers or hotels will add it to the final price, so you may notice it. Any use of a credit card internationally has a charge of at least a 1% by the Visa/MasterCard clearinghouse, no matter what country and which bank’s card is used. Check with your bank to find out it’s fees. American Express charges a two percent fee for international transactions with its card.

Mexican banks offer accounts in Mexican accounts are only available to citizens of the Pesos or US-Dollars. There are significant US and Canada or for corporations. To open differences between banks regarding account a corporate account you will need all articles services and fees, so shop around before of your incorporation and a power of attorney. making a decision. To open a Mexican bank account you will need valid identification such as your passport • Checking accounts – these accounts offer or driving license and a proof of address. Dollar easy access to finances on deposit, with 117

access from ATM machines. Interest rates are generally low for checking accounts, and are primarily used for everyday banking needs. • Savings accounts – there are a wide range of savings accounts offered. Many savings accounts have restrictions on accessing funds held on deposit, with some interest penalties being incurred on account withdrawals. • Deposit accounts – these accounts are widely designed for long-term savings, and range from fixed term – fixed interest accounts, to accounts offering higher rates of interest for regular account deposits.

1. Bring your current passport, Temporary VISA or Permanent VISA.

2. Proof of a valid address in Baja. You can do this by showing a copy of your CFE or telephone bill. 3. Fill out the required paperwork. Once you have provided all the other official documentation, you will have to fill out standard paperwork about your address, profession, salary and type of account you desire to open. 4. Provide your initial deposit. For some banks this could be as much as $2,000 (US) or as little as $100.

All major Mexican banks offer Internet Banking together with their accounts, though it may take a a little while to get through it the first time, Internet banking can save you a lot of time and frustration at the bank. Most major bills can be paid online.

Signing a last will and testiment by H9K.

A “Must” for Anyone with Assets in Mexico by Kristy Deegan

How do you transfer funds from your U.S. or pay bills in Mexico. The one service that bank into your Mexico bank account? Monex, is indispensable, however, is the reasonable founded in 1985, is Mexico’s premier foreign and efficient ability to make international funds exchange institution. As a state-of-the-art transfers. currency trading service, Monex has nearly 50 Additionally, Monex provides industryoffices throughout Mexico and has led the way leading investments and securities advice in bringing online tools and services to Mexico, and account management tools. Monex is better serving non-Mexican clients who live, universally known for personal service, inwork and invest in Mexico. depth market knowledge and responsiveness. Monex does not charge for opening or An employer of over 500 financial maintaining accounts, offers better exchange professionals, Monex has received awards rates than banks, can structure investment from the Great Place To Work Institute as accounts in pesos or other currencies and one of Mexico’s 50 Best Employers. The accepts non-peso denominated checks and company has also received the Corporate converts them to pesos. Social Responsibility Award from the Mexican You can do virtually all of your banking Philanthropy Center in recognition of their from the comfort of your own home in any ongoing efforts on behalf of the less fortunate country. You can receive funds from Mexico in Mexico. www.monex.com.mx 118

In general, in the United States there is a right of survivorship when a death occurs. The United States law provides for a joint will for the married couple. Many married couples have a joint Will, living trust, family trust or the like. When one partner dies under these circumstances, the “property” (all belongings, homes, land, etc.) is passed on to the designated parties with relative ease. If there is no Will or trust, the “property” must go through probate—a legal process to determine the rightful heirs. Part of that process is to publish a notice in all the surrounding areas requesting that any person who feels they are a rightful heir or have liens on the “property” come forward. If no one comes forward, the right of survivorship is implemented and the surviving spouse becomes the heir.

there are children, the court would rule equal percent to surviving spouse and children. If there were two sons, the two sons and the spouse would each get an equal part of the ownership. The legal process is governed by the Baja California Civil Code, so each state may have varying processes for the court. This is not a Federal issue. If there is no Will and all the heirs agree to the distribution, one can resolve the property ownership through the Notaria. If there is any conflict, it must go through the court.

How it works in Mexico: Because there is no right of survivorship, each individual owner of “property” should have a Will. When a spouse dies, and a Will is in place, the transfer of property is relatively simple. The designated heirs present the What is the law in Mexico? There is no right of survivorship provision Will to the Notaria and the transfer is made in Mexico. If a spouse dies, and there are no with a signature. The “new” owners of land children, the court will search for heirs for the are registered with the bank and the Public spouse’s 50 percent in the following order: Records. There are two choices if there is no Will. 1) If parents, grandparents, siblings and cousins. If 119

there is no conflict, the heirs can go directly to the Notaria for distribution of the property. 2) If there is any conflict, the heirs must go through a process similar to probate in the United States. For example: When a spouse dies, the courts will start the process of “looking” for heirs. They will first look for the children, then parents, then grandparents, then siblings and then cousins. When this search is exhausted, the court determines the rightful heirs and the surviving spouse can possibly be totally disinherited and excluded. A Will or Family Trust written in the United States, it is NOT valid in Mexico. In order to make it valid, one must have the document translated by a court approved translator (up to $20 per page) and presented to the Judge for official acceptance. This is a lengthy and costly process. If a Mexican Will is in place, this process can be avoided.

Every person listed on the Master Trust should have a Will in order to avoid the above process. For example, If Mary and John are married and they purchased a lot in the Master Trust with Joe and Sarah (married), who is the heir if Sarah dies? If Sarah does not have a Will, one quarter of the ownership is unclaimed. Joe, nor Mary and John, automatically get Sarah’s quarter. The court begins the process to locate Sarah’s family and rightful heir. Each of the four people in this partnership of land ownership should have a Will to avoid any conflict of rightful ownership. The Individual Fideicomiso does allow for a designated survivor beneficiary. For example, Susan and Ron are married and they are both listed on the fideicomiso. They designated their son to be the beneficiary. When either Susan or Ron (or both) die, the son will present the fideicomiso to the Notaria and the transfer will go smoothly. However, the fideicomiso only covers the land and the structures. All other possessions are not covered. If anyone in the family wants to take possession of any of the contents or vehicles, the heirs must go through the court process described above. The purpose of the Will is to avoid any possible conflict and to preserve the legal rights of the land. Even though we think that today there will be no conflict, obtaining a Will ensures it.

Why do you need a Will if you have a fideicomiso? A fideicomiso is a legal document that allows foreigners to own property within the protected zone in Mexico. It is a renewable trust held and administrated by the bank and it designates the legal owners of the property. In the Mexican constitution it states that no foreigners may be allowed to own property in Mexico. The fideicomiso is regulated by secondary legislation as an exception, which Leased Land: states that under certain conditions, foreigners Any agreements entered into before the may own property with the implementation of spouse dies are still legally binding and continue a fideicomiso. For El Dorado Ranch in San Felipe there are as agreed. Therefore, a lease agreement signed two classifications of fideicomiso: Master Trust prior to the spouse’s death will continue to and Individual Fideicomiso. Both have the same the end of the lease. The same legal process rights and privileges but differ in the rules about as previously stated applies to the contents, beneficiaries. The purpose is to define the vehicles and bank accounts. What a foreigner should do to be protected: beneficiary differences and how a Will relates, A Mexican Will is a very simple process: not to fully explain the fideicomiso. 1. Fill out the form The Master Trust consists of a large number 2. Attorney prepares the document of lots at El Dorado Ranch. The Master Trust is 3. Signature by Notaria, you and witnesses the only method of privatizing a large number 4. Final copy received in Spanish. You may of lots at the same time, in order to facilitate the transfer. The owner owns a “beneficiary obtain an English translation for a fee. The laws are different in Mexico. We may or interest” in the whole. Each lot is not correlated to a specific person. One cannot designate a may not agree with the laws here, but we must survivor beneficiary if he is a member of the live by them. I can’t state this strongly enough: Master Trust. There is NO right of survivorship in Mexico. 120

Taxes, by Vangelis Thomaidis.

It is estimated there are 45 million IRAs total control. Transferring IRA funds to a Self(Individual Retirement Accounts) in America. Directed IRA Custodian is simple and not These 45 million IRAs hold $4 trillion even after subject to taxes or penalties, and can cost as the recent Stock Market and Banking debacles. little as $50. Most Americans with IRAs do not know they Note, however, there are several variants of the can use IRA funds to purchase real estate, Self-Directed IRA and the recent Individual 401(k) including foreign real estate. Yes, even Mexican that are best discussed on an individual basis. real estate inside its “Restricted Zones” where the Okay, you have a Self-Directed IRA that can fideicomiso or Bank is used can be purchased. buy real estate. Don’t throw caution to the wind “Why haven’t I heard about this?” you ask. like “investors” did a few years ago; mailed Wall Street controls 97 percent of four trillion hefty Earnest Money checks to Realtors® they IRA invested dollars (it was six trillion a few had never met, in cities they never visited, for months ago). Its agents, Stock Brokers and developments they had never seen. Financial Planners aren’t about to educate you Due diligence is mandatory. That being said, and lose lucrative commissions from buying IRA opportunities abound including Mexican and selling products to your IRA. real estate. With the deflation of the “Real Also, most Realtors® don’t know an IRA can buy real estate. This is painfully evidenced Estate Bubble” (35 - 60 percent or greater), the by the minuscule amount of Realtor® IRA held timing could not be better. My preference has always been beachfront property, the very product they sell. If Wall Street isn’t going to tell you and your real estate. True, your IRA could snap up a San Diego or Cabo San Lucas beachfront Condo Realtor® isn’t going to tell you, who will? Ah, the very point of this article. Most IRAs reduced from $2.5 million to $1.5 million, were created by Wall Street Affiliates who will but how many of us have millions in our IRA? not accommodate an IRA buying real estate. Opportunities are available at any level, come You need to open a Self-Directed IRA to gain take a look for yourself. 121

In Mexico, the property taxes that have to be paid on a yearly basis are called predial. As compared to other parts of North America, property taxes in Mexico are low. The amount due varies significantly depending on the area where the property is located. However, the sum will always be less than 1% of the property value, which might be as low as a couple of hundreds of dollars per year. The state calculates the tax according to a simple mechanism. First of all, they assess the value of a plot and determine the general rate based on which the calculation will be made. The value of the property estimated by the government is substantially lower than the actual price that has been paid by the person who purchased the property, especially in the areas preferred by foreigners. This rate is evaluated by taking into consideration various factors: topography, urban facilities, and services available in the area. Once the rate is determined, the state will multiply it with the size of the land in meters and issue a bill with the resulting amount. The property tax is paid usually during the first months of the year. Since the predial is a local tax, the bill will be sent in the mail. Some people prefer to have the bill sent directly to their bank and have the amount withdrawn automatically from the account. Even though this might be convenient, it is a lot better to keep all the documentation related to the property tax. Those who decide to sell, trade, or mortgage the property have to show all the paid receipts. People who collect rent from their properties in Mexico will need to pay income taxes. These are considerably higher than property taxes, and the owner is required to file tax declarations every month. Owners who rent their property for non-business purposes have to collect Value Added Tax (Impuesto Al Valor Agregado IVA) only if the property is furnished. The property tax can be paid at any of the following banks: Banamex, Bancomer, HSBC, Afirme, Banorte, Santander, Scotiabank, Banca Mifel, Ixe, Inbursa, Banjercito, Banco

Azteca, Bansefi, CI. Banco, Banco del Bajío, Mi Banco (BAM), Banco Multiva, and American Express. Some banks allow online payment: Banamex, Bancomer, HSBC, Inbursa, Ixe Banco, Banco Azteca, Banca Mifel, Banjercito, American Express, Afirme, Multiva. The tax can also be paid in several local stores: Comercial Mexicana, Mega Comercial Mex., Soriana, Walmart, Chedraui, Bodega Aurrera, Superama, Sumesa, Sam’s Club, Suburbia, El Palacio de Hierro, Tiendas Extra, Circulo K, Farmacias del Ahorro. Another option is to pay the tax at a local Treasury. The Mexican government usually offers discounts for those who prefer to pay their dues at the beginning the year. This year, those who pay their taxes between 1 and 17 January receive a discount of 7%, and those who pay between 18 and 31 January receive 4% discount. Owners who do not know what they need to pay can contact The Ministry of Finance at support phone number 5588 3388 or visit http://www.finanzas.df.gob.mx (Spanish only)

House Keys by EXIF.

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With new tax regulations going into effect for Americans living in Mexico, the typical expatriate may be scrambling to understand just how the changes may affect them. As with any tax regulation, regardless of where you live, it can never be as easy as black and white. Tax regulations are inherently complex and the new Foreign Bank and Financial Accounts regulations are proving to be no different. But, with a basic outline of the regulations, most The basics of the regulation are pretty simple for American citizens in Mexico. If you have more than $10,000 in a foreign account, at any time throughout the year, you must account for this money and file IRS form TDF 90-22.1 each year and if you own a home in a foreign country, you have to file form 3520 and 3520-A every year back to 2003. Any citizen of the United States, including single member LLC’s or anyone with signature authority or power of attorney over an account that holds more than the $10,000 minimum must file the form for tax purposes. It can get a little tricky if you happen to be in Baja, as an American, and hold signature authority or power of attorney over someone’s account in another country, such as Canada; but you must file even under these atypical circumstances. Even if you never need to exercise the power of attorney over an account, you must file under the new regulations. You also have to file even if the account fails to generate any interest or dividends. If the account held a penny more than $10,000 even for the briefest period of time, the FBAR forms are necessary. While some see the new regulations as an intrusion on Americans who live and work legally across the border, or perhaps even the equivalent of “taxation without representation” since they may be living full time in Baja and still filing tax returns with the U.S., the United States government and the IRS see it as a necessary tool to track people who use foreign accounts to hide money in avoidance of traditional taxes. If you are honest with your holdings and file according to law before the end of August deadline, there will be no real issues to worry about. However, the trouble may mount if you have more than the minimum and fail to file or 123

under-report your earnings conflicting with the amount in the account. The civil and criminal penalties can be pricey and may be worse than simply paying any extra taxes the government may say you owe. However, if you have kept accurate records for the last five years and attach a statement explaining why you may not have filed when you needed to, the penalties can possibly be waived. The best way to avoid any complications is to simply report all income. If you reported all income and wouldn’t have had to pay extra taxes, you can reasonably expect to file the forms without too much worry. There are now penalties for past failures to file that can get you into trouble if you do not bother to explain the oversight. Just making the effort to keep everything in check and explaining innocent oversights can really go a long way in appeasing authorities. If you truthfully disclose your foreign account holdings on your American tax return, you probably won’t owe more and therefore, will have no problems at all. But, if on your tax return, you left that question blank or declared there were no foreign accounts, your returns are inaccurate and you may very well owe more taxes and/or penalties. As with any tax regulations, the exceptions can outnumber the rules. Certain foreign financial accounts that are jointly owned, correspondent accounts or foreign accounts owned by government entities are exceptions to filing the forms. Trust beneficiaries are also exempt. To get the form, simply go to www.IRS.gov or call the IRS directly at 1-800-829-3676. If you need to find out for sure whether or not your accounts need to be listed or if disclosing your accounts may result in penalties from previous years, call the help line at 800-8002877 and select option 2. Also, for specific inquiries, send questions to FBARquestions@ irs.gov. Once you establish you need to file, complete the form and mail to the U.S. Department of Treasury. It can be a hassle to some; but it really is best to stay on top of the new regulations and try to be as accurate as possible on your returns. It can go a long way towards avoiding any extra headaches when it comes to tax time.

At a glance, it might seem like Expats a little tricky. Medicare is a perfect example wouldn’t have any reason to worry about of how tricky health care can be across the what the healthcare situation is like in Mexico. border. Medicare will only cover costs when a There’s plenty to consider just with American foreign hospital is the closest that can provide healthcare after all, so the last thing that treatment for whatever caused the hospital American’s are going to be worrying about is visit. There are specific Medicare Advantage or what healthcare is like in another country. Medigap plans that can provide for worldwide However, even if Expats are not be worried coverage, but those are special cases and about Mexican healthcare, Expats are still do not apply to all Medicare users. Anyone worried about healthcare. There are more than with one of these plans that gets sick or hurt 40 million Expats without health insurance of in Mexico has to cover the bills themselves, any kind. Some still obtain insurance through because in Mexico medical payments are all up their employer, but they are paying more out- front instead of made in small payments. Some of-pocket and getting less. People over 65 are of the private insurance plans will reimburse eligible for Medicare. The poor can apply for this payment, but ultimately it is something that Medicaid. So, maybe they should be thinking is very situational and can vary from plan to about Mexico. plan, so it isn’t something that should be relied For anyone living close to the border, it is on. These types of insurance plans are called actually worth looking into Mexican healthcare international insurance. options. One of the major reasons to consider International insurance is one of the options. Mexican healthcare is simply because it can For anyone who just wants to get treatment in cost significantly less than American healthcare. Mexico specifically, it usually isn’t worth the An argument that any skeptics to Mexican price. Someone that is frequently traveling for healthcare are quick to make is that Mexican work or just takes a lot of vacations might want healthcare is cheaper because it is lower to consider international insurance plans, but quality than American healthcare. While it is for anyone who just wants to take advantage true that parts of Mexico will naturally have of the cheaper prices in Mexico it really isn’t poorer quality that doesn’t automatically mean the best option. Baja Good Life Club can help that the whole country suffers from poor you with International insurance that will cover medical service. Like with any other country you during your stay in Baja and in many other in the world, there will be parts that are less parts of the world; contact Jason Wagner of developed or privileged, especially in rural Westcoast (818) 788-5353, tell him Baja Good areas. Larger cities such as Mexico City and Life club sent you. Guadalajara have quality healthcare that can Most Expats wouldn’t think paying for match anything in the United States, in no private care in Mexico would be a reasonable small part because many doctors in Mexico option. The price will vary depending on the undergo most if not all of their training in the country and the doctor, but in America a typical United States. In 2011, the Surgical Review check up can cost anywhere from $50 to $150 Corporation awarded two hospitals in Mexico dollars. Spending a night in the hospital varies with the center of excellence designation. as well, especially depending on the treatment, There are a few different options for getting but typically just having to spend a night in treatment in Mexico. There are some private the hospital without any extra treatment costs insurance plans which advertise that they between $3,000 and $5,000 dollars. cover treatment in Mexico, but the majority Mexico has vastly cheaper prices though. of private insurance plans will not. Even if In Mexico, an average trip to the doctor is plans do cover treatment in Mexico, it can be only going to cost right around $25. Visiting a 124

hospital shows a much more drastic difference, treatment options are available though, such as costing on average only $55. Not only that, surgery, hospital admission, and getting any but prescription medicine is cheaper as well, special medical supplies. There are some preexisting medical typically costing at least half of what it would in America. There are two other options available, conditions that can make someone be ineligible using government-run IMSS (Insituto Mexicano for IMSS, in which case it is worth looking into del Seguro Social) or choosing a private private insurance plans. These will be a little more expensive than the $250 fee for IMSS, medical care plan. The prices on private medical plans in Mexico but the private plans are less strict about people will vary from plan to plan, just like in America. who have preexisting conditions. There is an Premiums are lower on Mexican insurance English site which provides information about plans though, and after paying a certain IMSS for any non Spanish speaking Expats that amount 100% of hospitalization will be covered are interested in learning more. It is also worth by the insurance. Many American insurance noting that there are some conditions which companies will deny patients that have will not be covered within the first year, but they preexisting conditions, but typically Mexican will then become covered in the second or in insurance companies are much more generous some cases even the third year. Applying for IMSS also requires certain towards anyone with preexisting conditions. There are a few downsides though to Mexican documentation. The first thing that is needed private insurances. Just like with American is a birth certificate that has been translated insurances, the premium will increase with into Spanish. The translation needs to be from the age of whoever is applying. Most Mexican a certified translator. Some form of photo ID, insurance plans don’t cover treatment outside typically a passport is needed as well. The of Mexico, so anyone who lives in America applicant will also need something that proves would be better off considering a different they live at whatever address they gave. plan. The biggest difference is that there Typically, this will be something like a phone aren’t monthly payments like with American bill or a water bill as long as it was sent within insurance. Instead, the whole year has to be the last two months. Any married couples that paid upfront, which can be a little too expensive are planning to apply will also need to provide for some people considering private insurance. a marriage certificate to prove that they are in IMSS is an option that is available for anyone fact married. Just like with the birth certificate that has temporary or permanent residence in this document will need to be translated into Mexico. For anyone that is eligible, this is usually Spanish if it is written in another language. In the preferred option, and some Expats will even addition to that, you need to provide either FM2 retire in Mexico because of the advantages or FM3 documents, and two or three official offered by IMSS. It only costs a yearly fee photo’s that are infant sized. As expected, there is quite a bit of paperwork of $250 to get IMSS. This includes getting medicine, visiting doctors, dental work, getting that needs to be filed after providing the tests done, and any lab visits. Like in the United necessary documents. The paperwork will be States, IMSS will provide a primary physician in Spanish, and thus is required to be filled out and will refer to any specialists if needed. in Spanish as well. This is important for any There are a few things to take into recent immigrants who haven’t yet mastered consideration though with IMSS. Firstly, it takes the language. After that, there will be an a little bit of time to process, so treatment will examination by a physician and then everything not be available until the first day of the following will start to get processed. Catherine Jones works as a registered nurse month after initially signing up for IMSS. During the first year of having IMSS some of the and owes her life to IMSS. In 2002 she was options are a little more limited. Patients will not diagnosed with breast cancer and had the be able to get anything besides doctor’s visits. following to say about her treatment. “The Beginning in the second year though, all of the process of getting the insurance in Mexicali was 125

easy. Thank God that I had that insurance when don’t need to worry about rushing to learn the I was diagnosed. I had no other insurance in language, since there is always the option to the US at that time. It literally helped to save my hire a translator. life. The doctor at the San Felipe clinic for IMSS Flannigan also noted that it wasn’t just the referred me to Mexicali to the internist to have a doctors and nurses who had good bedside physical and a mammogram. The mammogram manner. He had this to say about his insurance showed probable cancer of the left breast. agent, Theresa, from his private provider, GNP. They referred me to an oncology surgeon. “When was the last time you spent a stay in the They promptly scheduled me for surgery.” hospital and had your Allstate Agent visit you As for the overall quality of her treatment, twice? During my last stay, I was visited twice Jones had this to say, “I was impressed with by a very caring Theresa to be sure that I was the entire processing of me from the pre-op okay and everything was satisfactory.” room through the surgery. As it turned out I Expats going to Mexico for healthcare isn’t had metastatic cancer. It had already gotten something that is exactly new, but in recent into 4 of my left axillary nodes. The surgeon years there has been enough of a rise to did a beautiful job with the surgery. I had no complications and they were fast at getting me start something being referred to as “Medical set up for chemo, and after the chemo, radiation.” tourism.” Medical tourism consists of new During the 2009 swine flu pandemic, the hospitals being built with the main intent being CDC (Center of Disease Control) flu director to cater to Expats wanting to travel across the Nancy Cox praised the way that Mexican border to get cheaper healthcare. While Mexican healthcare is designed to doctors handled the flu, stating that they had responded in a rapid manner and even helped treat all manner of ailments, there are a few areas that have gotten a little more attention. by sharing their data. There’s no denying how important it is to Usually dentistry and plastic surgery are most have experienced doctors that know what associated with Mexican healthcare. On top of treatments to apply, but another part of medical that, Mexico has started to become recognized care comes from the way that patients are with cancer treatment as well. Many cancer treated. Poor bedside manner can potentially survivors praise Mexican health insurance undo the medical treatment provided by doctors, for being more lenient towards patients that especially for patients with severe conditions. have preexisting conditions. Comparisons Dennis Flannigan had this to say about his are often made to how much premiums cost experience with Mexican healthcare, “I have for survivors in the United States versus the good doctors. They might be Mexican doctors, superior prices offered by Mexican healthcare. but they’re trained. The hospitals are clean. As with any important decision, it is worth I’m not so sure that I haven’t had better care doing research before making a decision. (in Mexico). They are not running in and out There’s no denying that the prices are cheaper like you are just a number, like (in) the United for Mexican healthcare, but that doesn’t States. So I have been really pleased with this.” automatically make it the best choice. Location He also had this to say about one of his more recent treatments to repair a hernia, “They have plays a huge part in whether or not it is worth a little extra cot so your spouse can stay with getting Mexican healthcare. One of the biggest you. It’s wonderful. The people are so nice, advantages of Mexican healthcare though is the fact that it is affordable for Expats even if even if you can’t speak Spanish.” Having some proficiency in Spanish will they don’t have an insurance plan that covers certainly help, but since many of the doctors healthcare across the border, or some kind receive at least some of their training in the of private insurance plan. Many Expats have United States they can usually communicate in gone to Mexico just to get specialty treatment, English. For anyone who needs more immediate but otherwise continue to use their normal care and doesn’t already know Spanish they American healthcare providers. 126

Currently, there are roughly one million which you may come in for appointments. expatriates living in Mexico. It is estimated by The coverage is quite broad and certainly the year 2025 that number could rise to over covers the needs of most. The system covers five million. With that many new residents and primary doctor exams, preventative care, retirees making the move across the border, consultations, diagnostic tests, hospitalization, plus many more vacationers, it only makes surgical costs, prescription medications and sense to receive standard or even specialized dental plus optical coverage at certain places. health care in Mexico rather than travel across While most basic and emergency needs are the border for every appointment. met, there are pre-existing conditions that are Getting enrolled in the Mexican Social not covered. There are also conditions that are Security system for health care is not a difficult not covered immediately. Benign breast tumors process. There is no age limit to qualify, and are not covered during the first six months the annual fee ranges from $100 to $300. The of enrollment. The birth of a child is also not affordability compared to the cost of a plan in the covered during the first ten months. Some U.S. plus travel expenses incurred if you had to pre-existing conditions that will not fall under cross the border for every appointment makes your Mexican Social Security coverage include: the Mexican system all the more appealing. cancer, malignant tumors, chronic diseases, Many foreigners and travelers buy into the plan liver disease, kidney disease, heart disease, just for the coverage in case of an emergency. lung disease, stroke, neurological disorders, The process of getting Mexican Social drug or alcohol dependency, psychiatric Security starts by filling out a questionnaire illness, HIV/AIDS and particular traumatic and answering health questions, along with or muscle injuries that still require long term giving a health history. When you apply, you treatment or care. will need two photocopies of your passport While the lists of exclusions may seem and immigration documents. You can also long, it is recommended that the average present your VISA’s Temporary Resident (FM3) traveler invest in the plan to cover unforeseen or Permanent Resident (FM2). A copy of your costs during vacations. Anyone staying in the marriage license and copies of any utility country longer than one month will want to sign bills or rental agreement are accepted forms of paperwork also. You have to apply during up. Also, most of the clinics are very limited specific times throughout the year. January, in their understanding of English. Therefore, if July, August and February are the months open you do have to go to one of the clinics for care, for application into the system. Once you are you should either be very comfortable with accepted, you will receive an Instituto Mexicano your level of Spanish or take a translator with del Seguro Social (IMSS) card. This card means you. When you consider the low costs and the you are accepted for life as long as you pay the level of care the plan can cover, it is easy to annual fee. Once you receive a card, you must see why so many find it better to be safe than go to an IMSS clinic where you will be assigned sorry when it comes to buying into the Mexican a doctor and also be told the time of day in Social Security plan. 127

The IMSS health care option is an extremely affordable and attractive health insurance plan for any expat considering making Mexico their home. Below are the items and steps need to apply for IMSS: Required documentation for IMSS health care: • Passport and 2 copies • VISA’s Temporary Resident (FM3) or Permanent Resident (FM2) and 2 copies • 2 pictures (passport size) • Current electric or phone bill • Birth certificate (legalized or apostille)* • Marriage certificate if applicable (legalized or apostille)* • Translated documents by Certified Translator • CURP Number (obtained through Immigration Dept.)

Since U.S. citizens living across the border can’t use their Medicare benefits if they visit a Mexican hospital or clinic, they need another health care option if they choose to be treated in a Mexican facility. While many Expat retirees in Mexico routinely travel back to the U.S. to use their Medicare benefits, it isn’t a very practical option for all medical care. It isn’t a very viable option in an emergency either. There are also many Expats living in Mexico who are not yet eligible for Medicare who still need a health insurance plan. The Mexican government offers the Mexican Institute of Social Security known as IMSS (Instituto Mexicano de Seguro Social) to all Mexican residents regardless of where they came from. This health insurance option is *An apostille is a one page document certifying the basic but extremely affordable. For the average authenticity of a document. Issued by the US American living in Mexico, this plan is an *Embassy legalization is an alternative method of unbeatable option. authenticating a document. Issued by the Mexican For about $150 us dlls to $350 us dlls Embassy for the legalization of Canadian documents. a year, you are fully covered. This annual • Application accepted only during payment includes free medicine, doctor visits, January, part of February, July and no deductibles, glasses, dental work, tests, August. labs and much more. With over 1,500 clinics • Cost is $1,320 mn (under 19) to and over 250 hospitals to choose from, it is a $3,472 mn (over 60) and paid when convenient and affordable option over traveling you submit your application. back to the U.S. for care. It literally costs Note: Six to nine months after approval your coverage nothing for you to be treated in Mexico after will activate; you will be covered for life pay as long you pay the fee. as you pay the yearly premiums. If your application is While IMSS does not cover pre-existing not approved, your fee will be refunded. conditions for the first two years, it covers 1. You must have a physical examination everything else. Just like most plans in the U.S., 2. Full out a detailed questionnaire IMSS assigns you a primary care physician and The application process is daunting and with you can be referred to a specialist if needed. the language barrier you might need assistance, The IMSS health care facilities in the larger The Baja Good Life Club can help you. Please cities are just as advanced as their American contact us for assistance, IMSS-healthcare@ counterparts and provide top-notch care to bglclub.com or call 686-230-9933 Mex cell or 760-618-CLUB (2582) US phone. their patients. 128

Whether you are just visiting on vacation, to the United States, to this challenging time a seasonal “snow bird” or an expatriate who only makes the grieving process all the more has made Baja your permanent home, there are unbearable. Knowing what to do and what things to know and be prepared for in the event to have on hand ahead of time is in the best a loved one passes away while in Baja. No one interest of everyone left behind. When a loved passes away in Baja, it is likes to think about it, but you may have to go through it, if a loved one dies in Baja while you vital that you contact the authorities for the are living together or traveling on your dream municipality you are in. The hospital or clinic vacation. Sadly, it does happen and even if you you may be at will do this for you; however if and your loved ones are in perfect health, you you are at home you need to call them. The should know what to do if you are in Baja at the local funeral home will immediately prep and store the remains until proper transport can time of loss. While many expats and snow birds are retired be arranged. The local municipal coroner will and may have already vocalized and legalized issue a Mexican death certificate. You must their wishes in the event of death, others may have this document. While they will give you find a tragedy like death comes unexpectedly. several copies, you will need to go to the city The grieving process can be overwhelming and hall to get an official death certificate. This can paralyzing. Adding legal difficulties, and road take 1 to 2 days and longer if mistakes are blocks to get your loved one’s remains back made. Sharon Lainas, who lost her husband 129

while living in Baja, tells of just that happening. authorities on the United States side of the She says, “The only problem aside from grief border need to be waiting with an ambulance was that they made a mistake on the death or funeral home representative ready to meet certificate; which I didn’t catch fast enough, the Mexican ambulance. They will need to see making it my responsibility to get it fixed.” She the Mexican death certificate to take the body. says when her husband passed, the authorities Several people who have been unfortunate needed to see an FM3 (Mexican visa) and birth enough to be the position of losing someone certificate for her husband. they love while in Baja all recommend an easier You should also contact the U.S. State way to deal with the loss. Kristy Deegan says, Department if you are a U.S. citizen or the “The main recommendation is to get the loved deceased is. They can assign a representative one cremated.” Because cremation is simply that can clarify the law and give you the the easiest and quickest option, Kristy was guidelines to getting your loved one across able to get everything done within a week. She the border in a timely and smooth manner. adds, “Mike died on Monday. I saw the coroner They can also serve as a protector to help on Tuesday. Mike’s body (was) sent Mexicali keep you from being taken advantage in your time of need. Some funeral homes may see a on Wednesday and he was back on Friday.” foreigner as easy prey especially during a time Cremation can cost approximately $2000. Steven Forman also lost a loved in Baja and of grief and confusion. The State Department needed to reach out to the local community can help you find a reputable place that will not and authorities for help. His partner of 37 overcharge you for anything from embalming to the price of a casket. The State Department years died after an extended illness, so they will need Next of Kin Certification. This will were somewhat prepared for his passing while get the survivor on the right track to obtaining in Baja. After chemo and radiation, Steve and power of attorney to transport the body. It is Mark both came to terms with his eventual important to remember that even though you passing in Baja. While paperwork was in may be in the midst of grief, or even in shock if order, Steve found the cost of cremation to be the death is sudden, the sooner you get the ball difficult. He turned to a bilingual lawyer to help rolling, the sooner the process will complete. It him find a mortuary in Mexicali where he could is also important to realize that the survivor is afford to have his loved one cremated. responsible for the cost. Transporting a casket Once cremated, there is a lot less legal with full documentation to accompany the body wrangling and hoops to jump through to get can cost $5000. the remains into the U.S. Steve says, “The The US Consulate General will help with mortuary director had me sign some papers, all of the formalities and legalities. They will and also told me that one of the papers he was prepare a Consular report of Death of American giving me allowed me to travel with Mark’s Citizen Abroad if you are on vacation during cremated remains over the border into the U.S.” the passing. You will still need a Mexican death If you prefer to cremate and hand transport certificate. You will also need evidence of U.S. remains, you can do so as simply as placing citizenship of the deceased or a certificate of them in your luggage; however, keep in mind naturalization. The deceased person’s social security number will also make the entire you will still need a Mexican death certificate. process run a lot more smoothly. Next of kin This can give grieving family the chance to take looking to arrange transport should present a the deceased home to the U.S. for a service photo ID, their address and phone number. If with family and still allow for them to bring the the next of kin has a different last name than remains back to Baja if they want. While it may be a difficult process to go the deceased, a marriage certificate or other documentation indicating the reason for the through, letting the people in your life know different name needs to be on hand. If you are your wishes and having all proper paperwork not the next of kin, they will contact them for you. accessible can make life a lot easier on the Once all is in order on the Mexican side, ones you leave behind. 130

Purchasing real estate in Mexico is a lot the scope of this article). A realtor can not only help you find a building like buying it in the US or Canada – you find a property you like, enlist the help of some lot or a house, but can also answer questions professionals, do your due diligence, arrange about amenities and help you get settled in financing, sign some paperwork, and enjoy your new community. When selecting a realtor, make sure that the agent is licensed and is a your new property. Mexico has become a popular place to member of AMPI (the Mexican Association of retire to or to own a vacation home. And, yes, Real Estate Professionals). Once you’ve found a property you like, you foreigners can own property in Mexico, even on the coasts. Hundreds of thousands of will enter into an agreement to buy, which will foreigners have successfully purchased real specify costs, closing date, etc. You will also estate in Mexico. Mexican real estate can offer pay a deposit, which is usually 5-10% of the good value for your money, especially with purchase price. You and your realtor will now begin working favorable exchange rates. And the cost of living is substantially lower here. Three years ago, I with a notary public. All real estate transactions bought a vacant lot in beautiful beachfront San in Mexico require the involvement of a notary. Carlos and began building, and one year later I The deed to the property must be prepared by a notary. The realtor and notary will begin moved into my dream house. I fell in love with Mexico after enjoying preparing the necessary documents and several vacations here. The warm weather, performing the due diligence, such as: friendly people, food, language, vibrant culture, • Ensuring that the developer’s permits are in order, if you are buying from a developer. the interesting and fun things to do – all drew me here. But the question was: where should • Obtaining and reviewing the Land / Property Deed from the seller to make sure that the I live within this huge enticing country? Many property has a ‘clean’ history. locations were appealing to me, but after one visit, I quickly decided on Baja. It’s beautiful • Arranging for an official appraisal of the Land (Avaluo). here. And, if you like outdoor activities, you’ll never be bored. There are endless • Ensuring that there are no liens on the land (e.g. an unpaid mortgage). Under Mexican opportunities for snorkeling, scuba diving, Law, liens are passed on with title of the hiking, biking, sailing, fishing, golfing. I also land -- buyer beware! Title insurance is like that it’s an easy drive to many interesting not required when making a real estate vacation destinations. purchase in Mexico, but if it interests There are many factors you should consider you, it is now available. Title insurance when choosing a town, such as location, local protects you should the property you buy infrastructure (roads, airport, water supply subsequently turn out to have liens on it. and electricity), and local amenities (medical Ask your realtor about what title insurance services, mailing services, construction and is available in your area. rental services, churches, etc). There are several books available that discuss the pros • Checking that all land taxes and utilities (electric, gas, water and phone, HOA fees) and cons of numerous Mexican towns. When have been paid. I was looking, I read “Live Better South of the Border in Mexico” by Mike Nelson and • Checking that structures have the required building permits. “Choose Mexico” by John Howells and Don You will need to provide your realtor and Merwin. Both books are excellent resources, and I highly recommend them. At this point you notary public with certain official documents, will also have to decide whether to build on a including photo ID (such as a passport), birth vacant lot or to buy a finished house (the pros certificate, marriage license (if applicable), and and cons of building from scratch are beyond your visa (Tourist Visa, FM3). 131

Mexican law provides for private ownership of land by foreigners. However, if your property is within the 100 km border zone or 50 km coastal zone, there are ownership restrictions. If your property is within these restricted zones, as mine is, you can own land through a fideicomiso (a trust) which is set up through a bank. Your realtor will work with the bank to establish your trust. Title to the property will be transferred to the trust. A Mexican bank of your choice will act as trustee and you, as purchaser, will be designated the beneficiary. The bank follows your instructions and acts only for your benefit. As beneficiary, you will have the use and control of the property and will make all decisions concerning the property. You will have all the rights of ownership, including the right to sell, rent, lease, mortgage and develop your property. You can also pass the property on to your heirs. The trust is renewable for an indefinite number of successive 50 year periods. The trust is formalized by the issuance of a permit from the Mexican Ministry of Foreign Affairs. And your rights as beneficiary will be recorded in the public record. The bank charges an initial fee for establishing the trust and an annual fee based on the value of the property. Recently, a couple of Mexican Senators have

argued that current international economic and political conditions favor removing ownership restrictions, and have introduced legislation to that effect. It remains to be seen whether restrictions on foreigners from directly acquiring property on Mexico’s coasts and the resulting requirement for a fideicomiso will be eliminated. At this point in the transaction, you should have your financing in order. Financing is now available in Mexico and several big name players from the US have entered the marketplace. These US-based mortgage companies offer US dollar denominated products. Mexican banks have also begun to offer mortgages, but a significant down payment is required and interest rates are higher than in the US or Canada. Your realtor should be able to help you connect with the financial institutions that are offering mortgage financing in your area. With your due diligence done, and your trust, financing and title insurance in place, you are now ready for the closing. This will take place at the notary public’s office, where you will sign the deed and make the final payment. This is also when you will pay the notary public’s fees and any other outstanding closing costs. With the documents signed and these payments made, all you now need to do is enjoy your new property and plan the Open House party!

The legal acquisition of Real Estate in Mexico interest in Mexican lands. While Article 27 through the Bank Trust system has been of the 1917 Mexican constitution banned enjoyed by many thousands of non-Mexican foreign ownership of any land within 64 miles individuals and corporations as a result of the of the borders and 32 miles of any coastline Foreign Investment Law decreed by President the Foreign Investment Law decreed in 1973 Luis Echeverría in 1971 and codified by the specified different treatment for property within Mexican Chamber of Deputies in February the Restricted Zone and outside the Restricted 1973. This decree recognized the importance zone. Outside the Restricted Zone foreigners of foreign investment to Mexico’s economic can obtain beneficial trust interests in land development, a recognition which has grown for a finite period of years. Under regulations geometrically, especially over the years since of the law to ‘Promote Mexican Investment then and continues to do so today. and Regulate Foreign Investment”, signed in They key to Real Estate investment in May 1989, within 6 months to 1 year prior to Mexico for a non-Mexican, whether developer the expiration of the original trust period, an or individual purchaser, is the fideicomiso, or extension can be obtained by simple application. trust. The 1973 decree declared the fideicomiso The new Foreign Investment Law passed at to be the proper means for foreigners to obtain the end of 1993, providing foreigners with the 132

ability to acquire direct title to commercial real The Public Deed (called “Esritura Publica” in estate in the coastal and border areas through Spanish) is then drawn up by the designated the establishment of a Mexican corporation. Notary Public (normally chosen by the buyer), Furthermore, the acquisition of residential real including as well in said Deed the legal estate can now be accomplished through a description of the prior title in order to establish 50-year bank trust, which renewal for another an equivalent to the “title chain” researched by 50-year period is guaranteed by Article 20 of Title Companies in the USA. Either course of the May 1989 Regulations, giving additional action takes place concurrent with receipt of security to the foreign investors. proceeds, which generally will be in US funds, The key to the trust is any one of the either by the way of a US Bank Cashiers Check, privately held Mexican banks authorized to act or by way of Bank-to-Bank Wire Transfer, as trustees. The bank holds title to the property anywhere in the World. There are no currency – in trust, while the beneficiary – whether as restrictions in Mexico. an individual, jointly with a spouse, or other Closing costs, usually the responsibility of partner, or as a corporation, will be designated the buyer, are determined in accordance with as the holder of the beneficial rights of the the purchase price which becomes the basis trust including those rights to sell, improve, for all taxes and fees related to the closing will to heirs or do anything the holder of those process. Legally, the seller is responsible beneficial rights legally wishes. As beneficiary, for his ‘Capital Gains’ (Impuesto Sobre la he has an ongoing equitable interest in the Renta – I.S.R.) taxes which will run the lesser property which enjoys whatever market of 20% of the purchase price, or 35% of the variations may occur over time. difference between the purchase price recorded In fact, it has been suggested that the trust in the prior title, indexed in accordance with concept of property ownership has allowed the rate of inflation, and the new purchase the Mexican Government to effectively provide prince of the property, less deductions for any foreigners the beneficial rights to real estate, improvements, any closing costs which he without ever having to go through the political may have paid on purchase INCLUDING REAL minefield of having to amend its Constitution. In ESTATE COMMISSION WITH RECEIPT. The terms of an actual sale transaction, the foreign seller is also responsible for the real estate fees investor simply assigns his beneficial interest in the trust to the new buyer, should he be another when selling the property. The buyer will be responsible for the transfer non-Mexican or he may instruct the bank to tax which (2% of the purchase price) together endorse the title in favor of the buyer, should with the costs of the establishment of the bank he be a Mexican National. Should the new owner wish to establish a new 50 year bank trust-if so required an not already in existence trust in his name, he would simply issue the – notary fees, registration fees, tax appraisal appropriate instructions to the Mexican Notary fees, and trust permit fees. The total closing costs to the purchaser, excluding the capital Public in charge of the closing procedures. Unlike the USA or Canada, Mexican Notary gains tax of the seller and his real estate fee, Publics are highly qualified Attorneys-at Law will be in the area of 6 to 9 % of the purchase appointed by the State Governor and enabled price, including all trust fees. The typical time to give Public Faith to the legalities involving frame from the acceptance of the Offer to Title Transfers, wills, etc. Before the actual title Purchase to final closing, providing the title is is signed by the parties the Mexican Notary in good order, is about 30 to 60 days. As in any Public obtains through a Certificate from the transaction involving taxation each individual Public Registry of property, a 10 year search of case warrants proper analysis. When you deal the title to the subject real estate, to verify that with our staff, you know that you are dealing there are no liens or encumbrances recorded. with a full-time professional real estate attorney As well as a Certificate from the local City Hall who is familiar with the legal and tax issues to prove that the annual property taxes have critical to the security of your purchase and been paid currently. sale of your property. 133

doors, windows, plumbing, fixtures, lighting, and air conditioning, with specifications that you can understand. If you have a budget for fixtures, it gives you the ability to upgrade or reduce the costs of any items in question. Within the cost breakdown, you should be told how much is for the actual fixture and how much for the installation materials.

The backyard of Gary and Rebbecca by Rebecca Simunovich .

Contrary to what is applied in the rest of the world, Mexico has its own system regarding establishing values and taxes at the time a real estate property is transferred and this is affecting many sellers when property values are lower than before. To eliminate the necessity of explaining the different names and terms in this article let us set the following: “FTD contract” is Fideicomiso Traslativo de Dominio contract, “ISR tax” is Capital Gain Tax, and “Notario Publico” is Contract lawyer for the purpose of this article. Taxes on bare or build land, commercial or private dwelling: 1. If a physical person sells bare land the ISR tax will be 28% of the established gain, said tax will be retained at the time of the transaction by the Notario Publico; 2. In the case of a dwelling three situations must be considered, duration of occupancy, size of the land vs the size of the constructions and immigration status. The tax will be retained by the contract lawyer. 3. Commercial properties will produce an ISR tax level in relation with the gain but the tax will not be retained by the Notario Publico, it will be included in the general accounting of the firm.

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Values: 1. The value at purchase. Most foreigners, if not all, pay using their own currency at the time of purchase and do not realize that the amount is indicated, as per the exchange rate on the day of the transaction at the Notario Public’s office, as local currency in the FTD contract. Thus the real paid price is in pesos and not in the currency which was used. 2. The real purchased value at selling. The value of a currency changes as the times changes thus the paid value is adjusted to reflect the actual value at the time of selling. In other words, the amount at purchase is not the same at selling thus the possibility of having to pay the ISR tax (Capital Gain Tax) even though the property is sold for a lower price than what was paid for. The Notario Publico uses a set program to establish the value and the tax to be paid taking in consideration if the seller Mexican or not, private of business, type of property, date of purchase and date of sale. At times one sells dwelling and furniture, toys and other movable items, in such cases the seller must by law set two prices, one for the movables, which does not carry any tax if they are considered furniture, and one for the real estate property. By doing this the seller will see a reduction of the ISR tax and the buyer will pay less of acquisition and property tax.

First step is to meet with your builder and solidify your dream house, how many bedrooms and baths you need, if you will be year-round residents, winter residents, or if the house is primarily a rental. This plays an important part in the construction budget. The style of architecture and quality of finishes, i.e. cabinetry, countertop surfaces, tile, plumbing The major pitfall for extranjeros / foreigners fixtures, etc., are also important in figuring the building in Mexico is the lack of specificity cost of a home. It is important to discuss the property in contracts and specifications. In Mexico, location in relation to the water, where the front to be admissible in court, all contracts must entrance will be, etc., to design the home with be in Spanish or translated to Spanish by a the environment in mind. You have to consider registered translator, which can be expensive. wind direction in relation to the seasons. However, any business contract should be in For example, the strong winds in San Felipe both Spanish and English for your protection. are mainly from the north in the winter, with The contract should include information on summer breezes from the southeast the rest the company’s name, address, person of legal of the year. This plays a part in figuring cross- responsibility, and tax registration. It should ventilation and how to minimize the northern also include the builder’s responsibility for paying the building permits and labor taxes, exposure to living areas during the winter. You then walk the property to see where and that at the end of the project, the builder will the views are in relation to the house; where deliver a “letter of liberation” from the Mexican do you want your kitchen window to face? government, showing that all of the labor taxes Topography is an important factor, as well as have been paid. If this is not specified and the the location of any natural washes that may be builder does not pay the taxes, then you will be held ultimately responsible, with no way to on the property. Next, you make a basic floor plan on a CAD collect from the builder. Never make the final program to give things dimension. It is easy to payment until you see the letter. The contract should include a payment imagine a home, but having it on paper gives schedule tied to the verifiable progress of an idea of room size and functionality. It is important to consider your lifestyle to achieve construction, not a time schedule. It should the maximum architectural “bang for your also include a clause that the price of buck”. This is the point where people’s dreams construction is finite, unless there are mutually become reality, for size as well as budget. agreed-upon changes to the signed building Now you can get an approximate construction plans, documented in a signed change order budget because you have the information as an addendum to the contract. The change needed. Too many times, people are told they order should show the cost of the change as can have a house for $XX/sq. ft. but are not told well as the difference in the final price of the about the quality of materials or construction. contract. This shows the rising costs incurred You cannot make an informed decision without in the total contract. There should never be any changes made to the building without a change knowing the real price. There should be a line-item breakdown of the order being in place, to alleviate the possibility cost, quantity, and quality of finish of cabinetry, of a misunderstanding or miscommunication. It 135

is easy to agree to a suggestion, until you learn how much it is going to cost. Some builders will say that rising costs of materials necessitate a rise in the contract cost. Unless it is specified in the contract, this is not an obligation.

Most important in choosing a builder is to look at their time in business and references from past clients. You should look at not only completed projects to see the quality of the finish work, but also at homes in progress, to see how their insides are built. It is easy to cover up bad infrastructure with a good cosmetic finish, leaving problems that may not surface until the guarantee on the house is expired or the builder has moved to another area. If you do not know construction, then it is good to have a trustworthy, impartial person give an informed opinion on the infrastructure of the home. The look of the finish work is not a direct reflection of the attention to detail in the construction that you do not see. You also need to find out how many homes the builder is capable of doing at the same time. The quality of the construction is directly dependent upon proper supervision. If the builder is building numerous homes with minimal personnel, it is unlikely he can supervise the crews consistently or correctly.

There are no governmental building inspectors in Mexico, so the architects and builders are responsible for ensuring that the construction is done as specified by the plans. It is necessary to have frequent inspections by a third party to help the day-to-day process conform to the plans and specifications. Anyone can make a mistake; the important thing is to catch it before it is a problem.

“Permisos” needed are: The permit for IMSS or Mexican Social Security is an “AFIL-15”, showing the project is registered with Social Security, with specific workers named and the specific amount stated on the construction contract. The estimated salaries are then calculated by percentage, and the final cost derived for the “Letter of Liberation”. The builder will submit plans and structural calculations, if needed, and obtain a permit from the Municipality’s Catastro, the building department. Structural calculations are required if the home is larger than 2000 sq. ft. under roof, including garages and porches. Some subdivisions require submittal of plans for HOA approval, which usually have fees attached. Building a dream home does not have to be a nightmare. Take the proper steps and you will ensure your dream becomes a reality.

warm in winter and cool in summer. Adobe If you’re planning on living and building in blocks are comprised of a combination of clay Baja, then here is a brief outline of available and sand. Due to its earthen composition, building materials. Baja contractors offer adobe is unique among building materials in custom home buyers many options for building its ability to passively cool. Thermal mass and materials. To help prospective new home natural evaporative cooling allow the interior of owners narrow the choices, we’ve compiled a an adobe building to drop well below ambient list of many options. temperatures on hot days (without additional mechanical cooling), while remaining warm during the cold days. These qualities make One of the worlds’ oldest building materials, adobe well suited to solar homes and those has recently been reintroduced to the Baja who wish to reduce energy consumption with market. Adobe is praised for its ability to remain an environmentally friendly material. Homes 136

built from adobe are highly fire and insect resistant and offer excellent sound absorption and acoustics.

Also referred to as CMU (concrete masonry unit) is perhaps the most common building material in Baja today. These blocks are laid up in a running bond with steel reinforcement and concrete poured into the blocks at predetermined intervals. CMU construction is popular because it is inexpensive and familiar to local builders. Alone, concrete is not very energy efficient, however, rigid foam insulation is often applied to the exterior to add insulation and increase the efficiency. Concrete block is also resistant to fire and insects, although acoustics are generally poor. Noise travels through concrete block walls quite easily.

A formwork system assembled much like a giant set of Legos. After stacking, the ICF foam blocks are filled with concrete and steel reinforcement. Visitors from the cooler parts of the U.S. may recognize ICFs as the material used to build basement walls and foundations. ICFs are sold under several brand names; Rastra, Nudura, and Ice Block are available in Baja. These products offer good insulation and are resistant to insects. After plastering, these products also provide adequate fire protection. Rastra offers additional fire protection by incorporating cement into the composition of its foam. ICFs buffer exterior noise well, although, interior spaces may echo due the “drum” effect of hard plaster over foam.

Sold in Baja as Tri-D Panel. This product is a rigid foam panel with steel mesh on both sides. The mesh sheets are connected through the foam with steel wire. This assembly is erected on site and plastered inside and out with cement. Insulation can be very good, but varies based on the thickness of the foam in the panel. ICPs can be used for walls and roofs. They are quick to erect and have good resistance to fire and insects.

A multicolor fired clay brick. They are used as in-fill between reinforced concrete columns called castillos. Ladrillo provides little energy efficiency, but can be insulated with rigid foam much like concrete blocks. These bricks are resistant to insects and fire while being inexpensive.

Construction uses bales of straw, an agricultural waste material. The bales are stacked and pinned together, then plastered. Straw-bale homes have high insulation values, are resistant to insects and fire, and have pleasant acoustics. Recently, straw-bale home building in Baja has been in decline due to increasing costs of transporting the bales and the labor intensive nature of plastering the uneven surface.

Tridipanel is a prefabricated panel. This extremely strong structural product consists of a super-insulated core of rigid expanded polystyrene sandwiched between twoengineered sheets of eleven-gauge steel welded wire fabric mesh. To complete the panel form process a nine-gauge galvanized steel truss wire is pierced completely through the polystyrene core at off set angles for superior strength and welded to each of the outer layer sheets of eleven-gauge steel welded wire fabric mesh. Once these three elements are joined by EVG’s state of the art manufacturing equipment, you end up with a THREE-DIMENSIONAL lightweight panel that due to their characteristics makes them one of the strongest building materials you can find.

Deciding on a building material requires careful consideration of the benefits of each material. Ultimately, the best choice is the material that meets your unique needs. A consultation with your architect or designer may be the best way to determine the most appropriate material for your project. 137

Carnitas Tacos by Jess Lander.

In Baja California, tacos are widely available in street stands, market stalls, or restaurants. Out of these three options, the street stands are the best option for any person looking to get the best taco as quickly as possible. The preparation of tacos uses various fillings, such as pork, beef, chicken, seafood, vegetables, and cheese. The filling is garnished with salsa, avocado, guacamole, cilantro, onions, lime, lettuce, and tomatoes. The most common kinds of tacos are Tacos de Carne Asada, Tacos al Pastor, Tacos Dorados, Tacos de Pescado, and Tacos de Camarones.

lettuce, cabbage, sour cream - everything placed on a tortilla. This version of taco originates from Baja California. Tacos de Camarones (shrimp tacos) - the preparation is similar with fish tacos, but the fish is replaced with shrimp.

The size of the taco varies significantly across Mexico, but in Baja California it measures around six inches. The taste of the taco depends considerably on the tortilla that can be made of either flour or corn. Street food in Baja California is famous for Tacos de Carne Asada (grilled meat tacos) its deliciousness, but there may be some risk - the main ingredient is the carne asada (thin involved. People who have a high standard beef meat) that is diced and placed on the for hygiene or are prone to bowel problems tortilla together with guacamole, salsa, onions, should pick their taqueria carefully. Watch as and cilantro. the tacos get cooked and check out the overall Tacos al Pastor (shepherd style tacos) cleanliness of the utensils and equipment. The - this kind of taco is prepared with pork that shorter the menu, the easier it will be for the is grilled on a vertical rotisserie. The meat is staff to keep everything clean. Make sure the cooking oil is clear and that the meat smells served with cilantro and onion. properly. Pick the taqueria that attracts a big Tacos Dorados (golden tacos) - the recipe crowd and stay away from the ones located uses pre-cooked shredded chicken or beef next to busy streets with lots of traffic. that is put in tortillas. The tortillas are then fried With these easy tips in mind, anyone can in oil until they become crispy. They are served enjoy tacos in Baja California with minimum along sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. risk. After all, street food is one of the most Tacos de Pescado (fish tacos) - they are popular attractions of Mexico, an attraction based on grilled or fried fish combined with nobody should miss. 138

The beer industry in Mexico is famous founded in 1890 by José Calderón Muguerza worldwide. However, as we will see below, in the city of Monterrey. The history of the it is based on a business model which is not brewery was heavily influenced by politics, and always beneficial to the consumer or to the it culminated with the assassination of the two small home-based producer. So what is the Garza Sada brothers who owned the company story behind the cool beer anyone can enjoy in the 70s. In 2010, Heineken International during the sunny days of Baja? To give an announced they will buy Cuauhtémocanswer to this question, we must first meet Moctezuma Brewery. with the biggest breweries in Mexico: Grupo Today, the company has facilities in Modelo and Cuauhtémoc-Moctezuma Brewery. Monterrey, Tecate, Navojoa, Guadalajara, Grupo Modelo was founded in 1925, and Toluca, Orizaba and Chihuahua since 2012. it has since become the main beer producer The production is specialized in a series of in Mexico. It controls over 60 percent of the pale and dark lagers. The brands are: Carta market, and it is the sixth largest brewery in the Blanca, Sol, Indio, Bohemia, Dos Equis, Tecate, world. The group recently hit the news when Moctezuma, Noche Buena, Sito de Kaiser, Anheuser-Busch InBev, who already owned Casta, and Superior. a non-controlling 50% stake in the company, Tecate has first been produced in Baja announced on June 29 that they will purchase California in 1943 by a local brewery. In 1955, the remaining 50% for $20.1 billion USD. the brewery was purchased by CuauhtémocAnheuser-Busch InBev expressed interest in Moctezuma. Since 1992, the light version is the other half of Grupo Modelo ever since 2008 available for consumption. This malty and when the potential expansion to North America refreshing beer has 4.5% alcohol. and overseas was extremely attractive. Dos Equis will be linked forever with the The group currently produces 13 brands famous “The Most Interesting Man in the World” out of which the most common are Corona, advertising campaign. The name Dos Equis Pacífico, Victoria, Estrella and León. Corona signifies in English “two Xs”, and it was chosen has the highest number of consumers in to commemorate the turn of the 20th century. Mexico, and it is the most purchased imported Today, the beer is sold in two varieties: Dos beer in United States. The main brand is called Equis XX Special Lager and Dos Equis XX Amber. Corona Extra, and it is sold in various bottle In Mexico, Grupo Modelo and Cuauhtémocsizes, from 8.5 fl. oz. to 40.5 fl. oz. It comes in Moctezuma Brewery take the lion’s share draught or canned version as well. The second of the market. This creates a monopolistic Corona brand is Corona Light: 12 fl. oz. with 99 situation in which microbreweries find it hard calories and 3.7% alcohol. become successful. The monopoly over the Pacifico was initially produced in Mazatlán, beer market has a negative impact not only on Sinaloa, and its variety was expanded in 2008. the microbreweries, but also on the consumer. In Mazatlán, the beer is sold in three different Monopoly discourages competition and bottle sizes: 6 fl. oz, 12 fl. oz., and 32 fl. oz. hampers the emergence of better and cheaper Victoria was originally distributed by Compañía products. Toluca y México. In 1935, Compañía Toluca On the producers’ side, the monopoly is no y México was purchased by Grupo Modelo. less damaging. Microbreweries complain that Today, the beer is sold mostly in 11 fl. oz. and restaurants are not interested in selling their 31.8 fl. oz bottles. products because they already have struck While Modelo controls around 60 percent mutually beneficial deals with the big breweries. of the market, most of the remaining 40% is Small producers sometimes have no choice taken up by the second big Mexican brewery but to purchase ingredients and bottles from - Cuauhtémoc-Moctezuma Brewery. It was abroad, which increases the final price of the 139

beer, thus reducing their competitiveness on the market. Against all odds, in recent years there has been an increase in the consumption of craft beer. This kind of beer has managed to attract the attention and appreciation of people who would like to spend more money to experience a new taste. Artisan beers are based on barley, wheat, oats, rye and sometimes on corn. Additional ingredients include “yerba santa” – a Mexican herb, amaranth, citrus, and cinnamon. Today there are around 80 producers out of which 30 are registered officially, while the rest make beer on a small scale. Here are some of the most popular microbreweries in Baja California. Cerveceria Kudos - Tijuana This Tijuana brewery finds inspiration in the German tradition and uses a Belgian technique in its brewing process. Currently, they produce beer in 12 different styles: Hefeweizen, Quadrupel, Saison, Brown Porter, Belgian Strong Ale, Strawberry Wheat, Oatmeal Stout, Dunkelweizen, Mild Brown, IIPA, IPA, and Dry Stout. Cerveceria Insurgente - Mexicali The name Cerveceria Insurgente is translated into English as Brewery of Rebels. This name depicts the owners’ “rebellion” against the lack of savor of mainstream bear. Here are the beers of Cerveceria Insurgente: Tiniebla (wheat, pilsner malt, orange peel, coriander), Insurgente Brown (malt backbone and caramel), La Lupulosa (five different styles of hops), Nocturna (chocolate, coffee, and roasted barley).

Baja Razz, Baja Black, Baja Red, Baja Stout, and Draft Beer. The brewery distributes a part of the beer through its three restaurants: one located right next to the brewery, the second one on Cabovillas Rooftop, and the third one in Cabo Marina. Mexicali Brewing Company - Mexicali since 1923 This old brewery of Baja was founded by Miguel Gonzalez and Heracio Ochoa with the help of a German brewmaster Adolfo Bindher. As opposed to beer coming from giant factories, Cerveza Mexicali is handcrafted by the current brewmaster Oswaldo Armenta. Oswaldo created several beers for the Mexicali Brewing Company: Mexicali Light, Mexicali Dark, Red Pig Mexican Ale, Rio Bravo Lager, Rio Bravo Dark, and Chili Beer. Cucapa Brewery – Mexicali Founders of Cucapá Brewery found their inspiration in the history of the native tribe of Baja California called Cucapá. Their beer list includes: Obscura (American brown ale), Chupacabras (American pale ale), Clasica (blonde ale), Honey (amber ale), La Migra (imperial stout), Runaway (IPA), Lowrider (double rye), Green Card (barley wine), Tequila (barrel aged ale), La Migra Winter (imperial stout), Baja Buggy (Kolsch style), and Imperio (red ale).

Old Mission Brewery – Ensenada This establishment is a successful combination between a microbrewery and a restaurant. The menu of the restaurant is based Big Bad Brewery – Mexicali This Mexicali microbrewery combines on wood-fired pizza, burgers, sandwiches, regular flavors with more unusual ones with the salads, pastas, and other specialties. The purpose of producing a really distinctive artisan brewery produces the following kinds of beer: beer. They specialize in the following products: Cervezas de Sabores, Light House, Old Mission Brown Ale, Strong Ale, BBBIPA, Strawberry Weat, Baja Brown, Noche Roja Red Ale, Copper Fields Blonde Ale, Hefeweizen, BigBad Stout Canyon Ale, Wood Fire Stout, Dos Pablos IPA, and Hunny Blonde Ale. and Red Agave IPA. The best moment to get accustomed with Baja Brewing Company - San Jose del Cabo The motto under which the Baja Brewing most of these artisan beers is during the Annual Company works is “No additives, preservatives Tijuana Beer Fest. It usually takes place in July or adjuncts! We test on humans!” Since 2007, every year when it attracts microbreweries from the brewery had enough time to test and try around Baja. The beer does not come alone, their 7 kinds of beers: Cabotella, Baja Blond, but together with plenty of food and live music. 140

Mexican Margarita by Christy Thompson.

The margarita is a Mexican cocktail made offered the drink to Margarita, and named it with tequila, an orange-flavored liqueur, and after her. The story doesn’t say whether she lime or lemon juice, and often served with salt liked it or not, but we’ll assume she did. His on the glass rim. According to Wikipedia, it’s recipe is still one of the most popular with equal the most common tequila-based cocktail in the parts tequila, orange liqueur, and lime, served United States, and first-hand knowledge tells over ice in a salt-rimmed glass. me it is also equally as popular in Baja. The Another story of Margaritas origins in Baja most common margarita is served shaken over actual take place a few years earlier than ice, or blended with ice, and sometimes the Hussong’s tale, invented a few years earlier addition of fruit. north of Rosarito Beach by Carlos “Danny” Although no one can say for sure when the Herrera, a mixologist serving tequila and Margarita was created, there are a few stories cerveza at the Rancho La Gloria hotel for a that circulate and depending on whom you ask, former Ziegfeld dancer named Marjorie King. they’ll stick to that story. The most popular of This story was told by Herrera and confirmed these stories is Baja homegrown, at Hussong’s by bartender Albert Hernandez, who is Cantina in Ensenada, Mexico, by bartender Don responsible for popularizing the Margarita in Carlos Orozco in October 1941. Apparently, Don San Diego after 1947, at the La Plaza restaurant Carlos was trying to create new drinks when in La Jolla. Margarita Henkel, the daughter of a German Another common tale begins in the United ambassador came into the cantina. Don Carlos States in the great state of Texas, at the 141

legendary Balinese Room in Galveston in 1948, when bartender Santos Cruz created his Margarita for singer Peggy (Margaret) Lee, an American jazz and popular music singer at the time. He supposedly named it after the Spanish version of her name, Margarita. Another explanation and possibly the easiest to swallow is that the Margarita is merely a popular American drink, called the Daisy, remade with tequila instead of brandy, or gin. The daisy was a precursor to another popular cocktail around the end of World War I, the sidecar, which is made with cognac, orange liqueur (Cointreau, Grand Marnier or another triple sec), and lemon juice, sound familiar? It was during Prohibition as people drifted over the border for alcohol that the margarita becomes especially popular, possibly when Mexican bartenders started mixing the popular gringo daisies and sidecars with tequila. In 1936, before any of the other Margarita myths, an Iowa newspaper editor James Graham found and wrote about such a cocktail in Tijuana. Could it be that Orozco, Herrara, and Cruz simply created the “Tequila Daisy”?

have to be the expensive kind, those tequilas are not meant to be mixed, but rather sipped, and savored. We prefer a nice mid-priced Reposado [repo’saðo], which means “rested” and is aged a minimum of two months. Many people prefer Blanco tequila, which mean “white”, the choice and preference is yours, experimenting can be fun. Here is a perfect margarita as mixed by a good friend and margarita aficionado “John Mas Margaritas”:

• 1.5 parts tequila • 1 part Controy • 1 half lime squeezed (to taste) • 2 Lime wedges (other half of lime) Pour your salt into a small dish. Rub the rim of your preferred glass; Old Fashion, coupe, martini, or whatever suits your fancy, with one lime wedge and dip into the salt. Combine tequila, Controy/Agave Nectar, in a cocktail shaker, squeeze in the half lime, fill with ice, and shake. Strain into prepared glass and garnish with remaining lime wedge.

Here are a few of our favorite margarita recipes to help make living the Baja Good Life, that much easier. The first thing concocting the perfect Start by smashing (which mean “muddle” margarita is to throw away any premade in bar speak) 2-3 blackberries in the bottom of margarita mix you purchased, or even worse, the glass with your Controy/Agave Nectar until any Sprite, 7UP, or anything other than the the juices are mixed. Then follow the Perfect following ingredients: Margarita recipe. • Tequila • Controy – There is also Cointreau, a French Orange Liqueur that costs Muddle 2-3 sliced jalapeño in the bottom of $35 a bottle in the States. Controy is the glass with your Controy/Agave Nectar until a Mexican Orange Liqueur that costs only $150 pesos in Baja, and since we the slices begin to fall apart. Reduce the slices are making a margarita, we like to go and remove seeds for a less spicy version. Then follow the Perfect Margarita recipe. with Mexican products. • Mexican limes • Salt Steep 1 hibiscus tea bag or 1tsp. dried • Agave Nectar – (optional) simply replace the Controy when you want to hibiscus flowers in 4 oz. for 10 minutes. Discard go all-natural, and keep it in the agave the tea bag and gently pour the hibiscus tea over the completed Perfect Margarita, forming family. Start with some good tequila, doesn’t a red layer on top. 142

Santo Tomas Winery, Ensenada. During the BGL Club Wine Tour 2011, by Rachel Pack.

Winemaking in Mexico dates back to the most obvious answer to this question is its 16th century when the Spaniards arrived in this unique climate. Even though Baja California part of the continent. This long history turns is characterized by a rather semi-desert Mexico into the oldest wine producing area of climate, Ensenada distinguishes itself with the Americas. its Mediterranean weather created mainly by The total surface of land that is used a cold marine current. The warm summers for growing vineyards in Mexico has been and winters create optimal conditions for the estimated to around 6,200 acres. This land is cultivation of some of the best wine grapes in distributed in three separate areas: La Laguna the world. As a result, many wineries in the area (Coahuila and Durango), the central area region rely considerably on exportation. (Zacatecas, Aguascalientes and Querétaro), If Baja produces the best wines in Mexico, and Baja California (Guadalupe, San Vincente, then Guadalupe Valley comes with the best and Santo Tomas Valleys). wines in Baja. The valley is located northeast of Wineries from Baja California produce Ensenada, and it is riddled with many wineries, both red and white wines. Red wines include each of them aiming at becoming the best in Cabernet Sauvignon, Mission, Zinfandel this highly competitive industry. The excitement Grenache, and Ruby Cabernet. In terms of of winery owners combines itself with the white wines, Baja offers Riesling, Sauvignon curiosity of tourists and the passion of wine Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Semillon Palomino, connoisseurs. Malaga, and Saint Emilion. The history of the valley goes back to the Today, around 90% of the complete wine 19th century when Felix Caballero, one of the production comes from Baja California, Spanish missionaries, founded a mission called Ensenada. At the same time, the wines produced “Nuestra Seúora de Guadalupe”. The mission here have gained worldwide recognition during was abandoned by Felix Caballero around 1840 numerous prestigious competitions. due to the constant adversity coming from the However, what makes Ensenada such indigenous people. an excellent place for wine growing? The Even at that time, winemaking was extremely 143

important for the community, and several small wineries run by missionaries came into existence. However, this would change once the Mexican government decided to remove the territories from the jurisdiction of the Catholic Church. This made missionaries abandon their wineries, and the establishments fell into oblivion. The first significant initiative related to wine production in Guadalupe Valley would come in 1888 when the Mexican government decided to sell several pieces of land to a private company. This company started, for the first time in history, to focus on the largescale production of wine. The interest in wine production was further enhanced once a group of Russian immigrants arrived in the valley. They immediately noticed the enormous potential of winemaking and started to grow vineyards. The “Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe” mission has been reduced to mere ruins by the passage of time. Near-by, there is a small museum exhibiting photos and artifacts, which reconstruct the beautiful and tumultuous past of Guadalupe Valley. However, what attracts an increasing number of visitors, are the wineries themselves that organize tours and wine tasting sessions. Even though the competition is fierce, here are four of the most appreciated wineries in Baja.

Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and many others. To learn more about what Adobe Guadalupe has to offer, visit their website http://www. adobeguadalupe.com.

The history of Cavas Valmar goes back to 1919 when Frenchman Federico Valentin came here and created a ranch. He initially produced wine for his own consumption, but this was enough to inspire his sons Hector and Gontran Valentin. Today, Cavas Valmar makes around 2500 cases of wine per year based on grapes coming from several valleys in Baja. To read about the excellent wines belonging to Cavas Valmar, access their website http://www. vinosvalmar.com.

With around 80 years of experience behind, L.A. Cetto won around 250 international prizes for their outstanding wines. As a result, most of the wine is exported to over 25 countries. The boutique displays the collection of wines and an assortment of delicacies. Visitors can learn more about this outstanding place by booking a tour. The official website http://www.lacetto. com/ is available only in Spanish.

As a whole, the wine route in Baja California is diverse and full of attractions. Wine connoisseurs, but not only, will feel The establishment came into existence in overwhelmed by the outstanding diversity of 1888, which means that this is the oldest winery wines. Even though the communities are small, of Baja. In spite of its age, Bodegas Santo there are various accommodation options Tomas operates in a modern and beautifully available for those who plan to spend more furnished facility. Based on a process known than a day here: hotels, Bed & Breakfast, inns, only to them, Bodegas de Santo Tomas creates 26 different types of wines. On the premises, and even campsites. There are many wine there is a room dedicated to wine tasting. The boutiques wines, museums, galleries, spas winery is presented in detail on the website and restaurants. As economic problems afflict many regions http://www.santo-tomas.com/, Spanish only. of the world, the wine valleys of Baja seems to thrive, and new wineries are constantly being This winery follows the tradition set by the created. The most unexpected achievement of Russian immigrants who settled here at the Baja wineries is that the collectively contributed beginning of the 20th century. The vineyard to the creation of a new image for Mexico. belonging to Adobe Guadalupe covers a More precisely, the deep tradition founded on surface of 60 acres, and the grapes are used tequila and beer is gradually being replaced by to produce various types of wines: Cabernet the fine art of winemaking. 144

Belding’s Yellowthroat (Geothlypis beldingi).

The diversity of plant species in Baja habitat in freshwater marshes and lagoons. California is divided in three areas: the California In the cattails, it builds a nest where it lays Region, the Sonoran Desert and the Cape from 2 to 4 eggs, most frequently 3. It prefers Region. The vegetation in the California Region to feed on insects and invertebrates found in is a continuation of the flora in the north. The vegetation. The main difference between the landscape is dominated by the chaparral and male and the female is that the latter does not conifer trees. The Sonoran Desert is extremely have the black mask. The Belding’s Yellowtail arid, but this did not deter the formation of has reached an endangered status mainly due incredibly diverse vegetation, including giant to the destruction of its habitat. Today they exist cacti, the elephant tree, the catclaw acacia, only near San Jose de Cabo and Todos Santos. The Cardón cactus is the tallest species and many others. The Cape Region contains the Sierra de la Laguna dry forest that is of cactus in the world, and its name comes characterized by a combination of deciduous from the Spanish word “cardo” which means “thistle”. It represents a significant part of trees and evergreen vegetation. Baja California is rich in both marine and the landscape on the whole Baja California terrestrial fauna. Terrestrial animals are heavily Peninsula. The Cardón has an average height of influenced by the harsh climate, so most 10 meters and it can live for hundreds of years. of them have unique adaptive abilities. The The cacti are indispensable for the ecosystem waters around Baja California are rich in marine because they contribute to the stabilization mammals: the sea lions, elephant seals, of the land and they represent a key source grey whales, and sea turtles. There is a wide of nutrition for desert animals during the dry variety of birds, including herons, cormorants, season. The Boojum tree starts by growing like an ospreys, and gulls. Read on to find out more about some endemic species of Baja California. inverted carrot, but during maturity, it splits into The Belding’s Yellowthroat has its breeding several stems. This tree is commonly found 145

Belding’s Yellowthroat (Geothlypis beldingi).

Boojum tree (Fouquieria columnaris), taken at the Baja California Peninsula, Cataviña region, Mexico.

in the north side of Baja California, and it gets less and less frequent near the border of Baja California Sur. Over its 300 year long life, the Boojum can reach heights or up to 50 feet. After each rain, it produces green, rounded leaves, and in the summer, it grows clusters of yellow flowers at the tip of each stem. The Peninsular Pronghorn is the most endangered sub-species of Antilocapra Americana, with around 150 individuals left in the wild. This animal is particularly speedy, being able to run at 40-60 mph for around an hour. Their bodies are perfectly adapted to high speeds, with an enlarged heart and lungs. The main reasons why the Peninsular Pronghorn is so endangered are livestock fencing, human development, and droughts. Currently, there are conservation efforts taking place in Baja California Sur in El Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve. The Vaquita Marina (vaquita – little cow in

Spanish) has the status of the most endangered cetacean in the world. This is an extremely rare species of porpoise with a population that counts around 200 animals. It lives in shallow lagoons near the shoreline, and it feeds on small fish and squids. The vaquita has been brought on the brink of extinction by gillnets that attempt to catch other species. Today there are many efforts to protect it, including through the North American Conservation Action Plan (NACAP). The beauty of Baja California lies in its natural diversity. Much of this diversity has been sacrificed for the sake of unsustainable tourism. Fortunately, there are many nonprofit groups running various conservation programs meant to safeguard this diversity. The success of these programs will be left to judge by future generations whose destiny depends on the decisions we make today.

Peninsular Pronghorn.

Vaquita Marina.

146

After nearly 400 million years, scorpions still awaken from their winter hibernation to creep around seeking prey during the warm nights in the Baja region. While these creatures typically aspire to pounce on insects, spiders or other scorpions, they are encroaching more and more on humans. Or, we may be encroaching on their habitat. Regardless of how you look at it, the encounters are usually unwanted by both parties. Scorpions have a distinctive body, namely Christine Wood and Scorpion at Cantu Cove, by due to their long pincers and unique tails. The Raine Fisher. tail of a scorpion is divided into five segments, with a stinger off of the last segment. Scorpions are fluorescent under ultraviolet light. With a more severe than the sting of others, especially small black light outside, it can be very easy to for children and the elderly. The sting may locate scorpions either in their natural habitat or result in severe pain, numbness of the site, frothing at the mouth, respiratory distress, around the house. There are two kinds of scorpions found twitching or convulsions. You should seek in Baja—the bark scorpion and the striped medical attention if you think you have been tail scorpion. The striped tail scorpion is stung by a bark scorpion. There are a few basic steps you can take venomous, but not considered dangerous. A striped tail scorpion sting can cause the same to avoid scorpion encounters or stings: • Try to seal any cracks around the affects of a bee or wasp sting. There may be house, such as loose doors or some localized swelling and burning that will windows. Scorpions only need 1/16 generally subside within 30 minutes. Some of an inch to get through a crack. people may be allergic to the sting and have a • It is also advisable to remove piles of more severe reaction. bricks or wood farther away from the The striped tail scorpion is a burrowing house. Standing water or trash may scorpion and can be found under rocks and in also attract them. sand. This kind typically grows to be around • If you leave any shoes or clothing two inches in length and has dark colored outdoors, such as wet towels, always ridges on the underside of its body. Because shake them out to remove any hiding it does burrow, it can sometimes be found in scorpions. sleeping bags and in shoes. • One other tip is to use yellow lights The bark scorpion has longer pincers and outside. Regular outdoor lights a longer tail than the other varieties. It has a attract insects, which, in turn, attract yellow-colored body and can grow to three scorpions. inches long. The bark scorpion is the only kind General knowledge of the scorpion and basic that does not burrow. It is a climber. They can climb fences, stucco walls and trees. You can tips to avoid a sting can help keep the summer find them living under the bark of palm and nights carefree and safe. While stings can be other trees. They are also the only scorpion irritating and rarely dangerous, antivenins work variety that will congregate with other kinds of well and can prevent any lingering effects of a scorpions. The sting of a bark scorpion can be scorpion encounter. 147

The warm waters off the soft sandy beaches of Baja are as inviting as any shore around the world. It may impossible for anyone to not be lured into the waters off Baja. While it may look like paradise on earth, there are dangers lurking in the blue-green waters, mostly off shore but sometimes right along the surf. The danger comes in the form or a transparent, flowing, and uniquely odd-looking creature call the jellyfish. Jellyfish can be almost hypnotic in the way they float and dangle in the waters. Some can very small in size from a few inches long while others can reach three feet in diameter. The tentacles of jellyfish can be three times longer than the size of their bodies. This is where the danger lies. The tentacles of jellyfish have Found at Cantu Cove, San Felipe BC, by Christine Wood. protein based venom that can cause quite a reaction when they sting and release the to seek immediate medical care. You should venom into human skin. Even more dangerous, immediately rinse the site with hot water, as the nematocysts, or tentacles, can sometimes hot as you can stand it to be. You can also be left in the skin causing the sting to be even use salt water. Carefully remove any tentacles to minimize the toxins released into your skin. more painful. The best way to avoid finding out just how Vinegar is best for reducing the immediate bad your reaction may be to a jellyfish sting pain and for disinfecting. You will want to take is to avoid them altogether. They are usually a pain reliever also. As for the old myth of found at eye level when you snorkel just below urinating on the site, it is not a recommended the surface. It is never a good idea to handle course of action. While anecdotally it may jellyfish. Even when washed up on shore, provide temporary pain relief, it is still not the which they do in groups sometimes, it is wise best route. While the pain may last one to two days, to leave them alone. Unfortunately, because of their colorless consider yourself lucky if this is the extent of bodies, it can be easy to not notice you are your reaction. Anaphylaxis is the most severe swimming right into one or stepping on one reaction that can occur. If you get stung or are onshore. If you are stung by a jellyfish, the with someone who has been stung for the first sting will cause pain. Itching is also a common time, keep a watchful eye for shortness of reaction. Remember to use caution after the breath, wheezing, tight throat, hives, flushed sting as the tentacle may be still in your skin. skin, weakness or dizziness. It is important for If you are helping another sting victim, try to visitors and locals to be aware that different wear gloves to avoid getting stung yourself. types of jellyfish have different levels of Because your reaction can not be predicted, toxicity; therefore a sting by one kind can it is advisable to get medical help as soon as result in a dramatically different reaction than possible. Luckily, most lifeguards have all of the sting of another. Avoidance of jellyfish or admiration from afar can make your snorkeling the supplies on hand to treat jellyfish stings. There are things you can do to ease the pain or swimming trip into the waters of Baja a and minimize your reaction if you are not able much more pleasant experience. 148

Coyotes are animals to be respected and admired in their natural habitat. It is also best to admire them from afar. As human sprawl continues to invade more and more remote areas of Baja and Central America, coyote sightings are, and will continue to be, more frequent. We are simply encroaching on their territory and venturing into lands they have always wandered through. It is important to understand the behavior of coyotes and to familiarize yourself with their habits if you are going to be venturing into the desert, grasslands or mountains of Baja and the southwestern states of the U.S. Coyotes are members of the canine family and closely resemble small wolves. They can be a mix of colors such as white, gray, brown or rust-colored. Some have a white tip at the end of their bushy tails, and their tails will appear straight out if they are trying to show aggression. The males outweigh the female coyotes. On average, desert coyotes weigh about 20 pounds and mountain coyotes can weigh up to 50 pounds. It is important to know that while there are places they are more likely to inhabit, coyotes can live anywhere. Coyotes are significantly more active at night, dusk and dawn rather than during full daylight hours,and since they have few predators, they remain at the top of the food chain in most habitats. They primarily live on a diet of small mammals, fruits and some plant life, but they prefer to eat rodents, rabbits, squirrels, ringtails, kit foxes, bobcats, armadillos, opossums, skunks and lizards. Coyotes tend to hunt and live in packs, and they have advanced pack hunting strategies. Livestock is an easy target for coyotes, and two adult coyotes can carry out a deadly attack on a large deer. However, if they are after relatively small prey, they will hunt alone. Coyotes are also very intelligent and adaptable animals which is exactly why they are becoming a more frequent sight in suburban and developed areas. They have the ability to change their breeding habits, social structure and diet to survive almost anywhere and under almost any amount of stress. They are stealth-

Coyote, by Dave Anderson.

like in movement and can dodge out of sight quickly. They also communicate with each other. Their nighttime howl is meant to pinpoint locals between packs. They will yelp loudly as a form of playful interaction. If they bark, this is meant as a threat or a way of protecting a fresh kill from other hungry animals. If you frequently hear or see coyotes, it is important to know how to deter them from getting closer to you, your property, and your animals. Animal water dishes and swimming pools may lure them to your property. They also have a very keen sense of smell and are attracted to the scent and presence of fallen fruit. Avocados, berries and grapes laying around will attract them. Birdseed left out will also attract them. You can easily keep them at bay with a fence measuring six feet high. Automated lights and recorded voices can also scare them away at night. Moth balls scattered around the perimeter of your land is also an easy way to keep coyotes away. If you find yourself in the sights of a coyote, it is vital that you do not turn your back. You must appear and sound aggressive. Make as much noise as possible and throw rocks and sticks to frighten them before they can get any closer. You also need to pay close attention to your pets. Keep them within sight or on a short leash if there have been coyotes in the area. With a few common sense tips and staying alert to the activity of coyotes in your area, both humans and coyotes can peacefully coexist. Just as with most wild animals, they want to avoid us as much as we want to avoid them. 149

Snakes, like most people, know Baja is a great place to be and they certainly have no reason to leave. With these serpents still roaming the land, they are bound to cross paths with us at certain times. Luckily in most cases, an actual snake bite almost never results in serious harm or death. In fact, in the Kingsnakes are commonly kept as pets, due to their United States over 45,000 people are bit each ease of care; they are overall hardy and simple to care for. year. Only 8,000 of those bites are poisonous and only 9 to 15 of those cause death. Despite the low chance of ever being bit or dying from color with cross bands that are dark brown or a bite, the thought does strike fear in the hearts black. The cross bands may also be reddish of even the toughest traveler or Baja resident. orange. They are a bit smaller, only growing It is lucky for us humans that the old adage— to about 15 inches. They have smooth scales they are more afraid us than we are of them— and can strike repeatedly. Luckily, their venom is not very dangerous. They live in the dunes proves to be true. However, even with several facts dispelling and stick to either sand or rocky hillsides. They fears about being bit by a snake in Baja, there eat insects and scorpions. There are many common sense ways to is still the chance. Therefore, it is important to be aware of what snakes are in the area and avoid being bitten by any of these snakes and the many other snake species that live in Baja. how to stay away from them. Rattlesnakes are known to be across the Use caution anytime you are reaching into an peninsula. They are distinctive because of area where snakes may be, especially while their built-in warning system—the rattle. This hiking or climbing. It is best to probe areas hard noisy formation on the end of their bodies with a stick before sticking your hand into or is meant to warn you enough in advance so under logs or rock ledges. Wearing sturdy or you have plenty opportunity to stay away. leather shoes will help protect you when you The Baja California rattlesnake can grow to are out in the wild. Ranchers even wear thick 30–31 inches long and traditionally has brown leather leggings when they are working where coloring with black markings. They can also snakes are plentiful. Pay attention to your be grayish brown and have a cream color surroundings. Rattlesnakes warn you enough on their underbelly. They usually hide in rock so you can slowly back away from them. Keep piles, brush or trash heaps. They enjoy eating in mind they can strike up to three-quarters of rodents and lizards. While they are venomous, their body length. If you are unfortunate enough to get they do have the ability to regulate the amount bit, do not panic. Staying physically and of venom released when they strike. The amount they release depends on whether they mentally calm will keep the cardiovascular system from speeding up. Try to remember are striking for defense or hunting. The king snake is a colorful snake found in distinctive markings or be able to identify the Baja. It has red, black, and white cross bands type of snake. Look at the bite mark to help like a coral snake does. They can reach a determine if it may be venomous or not. If length of 48 inches and typically like to stay in it is non-poisonous, there will be no fang the woods, under logs and bark. They are also punctures, only small shallow marks. If it is a excellent climbers. They eat lizards, snakes, venomous bite, you may see one or two large punctures with smaller teeth marks also. Let birds, bird eggs and even small mammals. The shovel-nosed snake has a distinctive the bite bleed out for 20 to 30 seconds before look. It has a flattened snout, hence the name covering. Wash with betadine or soap and shovel-nosed. It can be whitish or yellow in water when you can. Apply pressure and keep 150

With a reputation nobody can envy, the windscorpion is an insect spread across most arid places in the world, including Baja California. It is known under several other names: sunscorpion, windspider, sunspider, camelspider, and even deer killer or camel killer. The rumors related to the viciousness of the windscorpion go back to the 2003 Iraq war. These rumors painted the picture of a huge insect that ran faster than humans. It was extremely poisonous, with venom that could knock out a camel. It became infamous for its voracious appetite, able to eat chunks of big animals or even people. The wind scorpion is often referred to as a “spider”, but in fact it belongs to a different order of animals called solifugae. It does not exceed human speed, though it can run up to 10 mph. It has huge chelicerae (mouthparts) that it uses to rip the prey apart. Luckily, windscorpion prefers termites, beetles, or any other local insects. It might occasionally eat small snakes, lizards, birds, or rodents, but the menu does never include human flesh or your pet. The most common misconception that

The beauty and majesty of Baja California is lost on no one. However, the landscape and beaches are not the only places to experience all the wonder this unique little corner of the world holds. The seas and the creatures they are home to are just as awe-inspiring and alluring as the land itself. The most powerful and majestic creatures you can witness and even interact with in the seas of Baja are the whales. People travel from all across the globe to Baja just to see the variety and splendor of the oceans largest mammals as they mate, play, and nurse their young in the warm waters. Thanks to efforts put in place over the last few decades, there are many whales to see

The Windscorpions are a nasty looking critter, but they are not poisonous.

damages the already tarnished reputation of the windscorpion is that it is poisonous. Fortunately, this is not the case, though the insect uses digestive fluids that liquefy the flesh of the prey. There is an exception to this rule, but fortunately, this kind of poisonous windscorpion is located at a safe distance in India. So, this critter might not be easy on the eye, but it does not constitute a threat to human life or to the pets living around your household. However, stay away from those huge chelicerae because they are able to cause a rather painful bite.

in the warm coastal waters. The whales have been protected legally since 1946 and certain distinct lagoons have been classified as protected bio-reserves to ensure many more years of protection. Less than one hundred years ago, the whale population appeared to be doomed due to careless commercial fishing practices. The waters of Baja were not a safe haven from over fishing. These practices were so common place over the time period of 1840 to 1940 that there were only a few thousands of the huge docile animals left on Earth. Thankfully, the populations have replenished and protections in place have worked to help the whales prosper as they once did. In fact, 151

Whales! by Donald Cook.

Baja is now considered to be home to the healthiest population of blue whales on earth. Many species can be witnessed in the warm Pacific waters including: blue whales, pilot whales, fin back whales, gray whales, humpback whales, sperm whales and orcas (killer whales). One of the most popular and breathtaking whale watching experiences to be had in Baja is the migration and birthing practices of the gray whales. From January until March, the gray whales enter the warm waters after traveling from the Alaskan Bering Sea. The mothers all give birth to calves in the early spring. The moms and calves are so docile and comfortable in these waters they often will interact, play and splash boats filled with spectators. The frolicking is a sight that leaves everyone amazed at how moms and calves express their love and devotion and playful side in such a relatable way. It is not unheard of to actually be able to touch the whales as they roll around in the shallow waters. Witnessing the nursing practices is a one of a kind chance that you simply can’t experience anywhere else in the world, as Baja is their largest birthing ground. Because of its importance as a world habitat and safe haven for whales, whale watching in Baja is a highly regulated and extremely popular practice. In fact, you must have a whale watching permit to be near the whales

during calving season. In order to approach the whales, you must be with an expert guide. Tours are plentiful and fairly inexpensive. It is advisable to narrow down a location and make reservations as soon as you can. Tours abide by specific guidelines and local boaters must follow some common sense rules. For example, all crafts in the presence of whales must slow down and approach from the side. Disturbing the whale’s normal behavior is against regulations. Disrupting their sleep or splitting up groups is not advisable. It is also against the guidelines to chase or box in whales for a closer look. While some may permit a touch or splash spectators, you cannot dive with the whales. There are three major lagoons where many tours and boaters can take visitors to see the whales as close as possible. Laguna Oje de Liebre is a lagoon to visit with charter tours from San Diego and Tijuana. Another spot, Bahia Magdacena, is close to La Paz and Loreto. Laguna San Ignacio is the best nursing spot for the gray whales. All are protected by the government. With a few simple precautions and respect for the natural habitat, whale watching in the most tranquil and protected waters of Baja can be the most awe-inspiring and memorable experience anyone can have.

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Fun Fishing in Puerticitos, BC by Jesus Osuna Ramirez.

Think ‘Fishing’ and Baja immediately comes yet. There is so much diversity in the Sea of to mind. You just can’t help it, the seas of Cortez, you’ll never know what you’re actually Baja are positively teeming with fish. Fishing catching. The fish range from marlin, tuna, in Baja has become such a popular activity, snapper, swordfish and dorados, and some of that it seems a crime to spend a vacation the fish are enormous. The yellowtail tuna could there without even attempting to go fishing. weigh up to 400 lbs. and they are not even Baja is lucky to be situated between two the biggest fish out there. In terms of fishing, abundant bodies of water: the Pacific Ocean this has really reached the extreme. This is and the Sea of Cortez. Mexicans have enjoyed the main reason tourists can’t get enough of the benefits of the vast Pacific Ocean, as it fishing in Baja. What seems to start out as a is brimming with sea creatures of every kind laid-back fishing expedition could turn into an and shape. Not to be outdone by the Pacific exciting ride as you try to reel in that monster. It Ocean, the Sea of Cortez is said to be the is never predictable, and is highly exhilarating. Vacationers in Baja can engage in different most biologically diverse water form on Earth. With oceans and seas such as these, no types of fishing. For a more experiential activity, wonder fishing has become a major source tourists engage in spearfishing. This is perhaps of livelihood for Mexicans living in Baja. one of the most exciting form of fishing, since Aside from being a source of living, fishing you would have to go diving to actually get in Baja is as much a sport. Many tourists have the catch of the day. Imagine diving into the come to Baja for the sole purpose of getting out ocean depths, and waiting for that sea bass to their fishing reels and getting that perfect catch. pass by. When it does, you react with lightning Some approach it in a more competitive manner, quickness as you spear the fish and bring it while others see it as more of a hobby. The Baja up to the surface. Primal? Yes. Exhilarating? seas are ready for either type of fishermen. Most definitely. Spearfishing is one of the If anyone would say that fishing is boring, more visceral experiences of fishing in Baja, as then they obviously hadn’t tried fishing in Baja you can get up close with the fish of the sea. 153

If you are interested in the more traditional way of fishing, then you can rent a boat, or charter a panga or larger boat and go out into the open sea at the crack of dawn. You could go deep or shallow fishing, and you can get equally satisfying catches. If you are out for some shallow water fishing, you can expect to catch the following species of fish: spotted bay bass, barracuda, sierra, leopard grouper, triggerfish and the yellowtail. If you are deep water fishing, you’ll be expected to catch the following: black skipjack, dorado, yellowfin tuna, sailfish and the snapper. As you enter Baja California and travel south, the first fishing spots are in Ensenada: Bahía de Todos Santos, Isla San Geronimo, Punta Colonet, and Isla San Martin. The most common fish species in this area are yellowtail, pacific barracuda, white seabass, lingcod, California halibut, calico bass, rockfish, sand bass, and occasionally, dorado, striped marlin, and yellowfin tuna. In Ensenada, the fishing season is at its peak between June and mid-September. The fishing is considerably better in the south of the peninsula because of the impressive sea life diversity that is present in

Fishing permits are available online from the Baja California Secretary of Tourism. If you will be fishing on a boat in Mexico, fishing licenses will be needed for passengers on board. As of January 2008, only fishing permits are required, boat permits are no longer required. Fishing licenses may be obtained in one of three ways:

the waters around Baja Sur. This is the case particularly in Loreto Bay National Marine Park where commercial fishing is illegal. The whole area located between Isla del Carmen and Isla Catalan is currently under protection. Since the climate is more tropical as compared with the north side, warm water species are prevalent: yellowtail, sierra, grouper, dorado, snapper, tuna, sailfish, cabrilla, and marlin. Cabo San Lucas has become famous worldwide as a fishing spot due to its almost legendary blue marlin that can reach a length of up to 16 feet. Other common species of fish are black sea bass, pargo, cabrilla, corvina, sierra, grouper, and yellowfin tuna. To make the most of your trip go to Banco San Jaime, 29 km. southwest or Banco Golden Gate, 31 km. west of Cabo Falso. Fishing from a boat in Mexico requires a permit and Mexican boat insurance if you bring your own boat along. Fishing from shore does not require a license. In some areas there are fishing restrictions or catch and release policies. Baja is a definite fisherman’s paradise. When you fish in Baja, you will find out that, indeed, there are many other fish in the sea.

(664) 973-0424 - www.bestbajafishing.org/ fishing-permits.php • Online fishing license pricing for individual sport fishing permits: • One day $ 98.32 pesos • One week $ 246.47 pesos • One month $ 369.77 pesos • One year $ 493.17 pesos * Keep in mind your credit card may have a currency conversion fee since this is an international transaction. Accepted forms of payment: Visa, Mastercard. Prices subject to change.

Filling out the online application from the Baja California Secretary of Tourism allows you to purchase and print a fishing permit 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The website is Visiting the CONAPESCA office in San also has helpful fishing information including a fishing calendar, list of launching ramps, FAQs Diego or by mailing in your application and and a forum to post questions. Contact: Email: money order. The only CONAPESCA (Comisión assistance@baja.gob.mx - Phone: 011-52 Nacional de Acuacultura y Pesca) office in 154

the U.S. is located in San Diego. They will issue licenses by mail if you do not live in the San Diego area. Contact: Oficina de Pesca Phone: 619-233-4324 - Fax: 619-233-0344 www.conapescasandiego.org Hours: Monday - Friday 8am - 2pm Mail the application in to them with your money order or cashiers’ check, a selfaddressed stamped envelope and they will send you your documents by mail. They recommend using certified mail for both envelopes. CONAPESCA fishing license pricing: • One day: $9.25 dlls • One week: $23.20 dlls • One month: $34.80 dlls • One year: $46.40 dlls • Excursion license: $66.10 dlls *Accepted forms of payment: only money orders or cashiers’ checks in the correct amount and made out to Oficina de Pesca. Prices subject to change.

Tijuana Via de la Juventud No. 8800-2523 Plaza Viva Tijuana Phone: 011-52 (664) 973-0424

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Rosarito Blvd. Benito Juarez No. 907, Ste 29 Centro Comercial Oceana Phone: 011-52 (661) 612-5222 Ensenada Blvd. Lázaro Cárdenas and Calle Las Rocas 1477 Phone: 011-52 (646) 172-5444 San Felipe Mar de Cortés Av. and Manzanillo 300 Phone: 011-52 (686) 577-1865 San Quintín Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 178.3 Col. Santa Fe Phone: 011-52 (616) 165-3645

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When operating a boat that carries 155

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fishing equipment in Mexican waters, it is necessary to hold a valid fishing license for everybody aboard the boat, regardless of age and whether fishing or not. A fishing license is not required when fishing from land. Only one rod or line with hook is permitted in the water, per person, but there is no restriction regarding the number of replacement items. A fishing license allows to capture only fin fish. It does not allow to capture any mollusks or crustaceans, and their capture by anyone is strictly prohibited. Totuava, turtles and marine mammals are under protection of the Ministry and may not be captured at any time. To capture bottom fish, up to four hooks on a vertical line may be used. The use of electric reels is restricted to disabled fisherman only, after written authorization from the Ministry before use.

In ocean waters and estuaries the limit is a total of ten fish per day, with no more than 5 catches of a single species, except of the species of marlin, sailfish, swordfish and shark of which only one specimen of either is allowed and which counts as five toward the overall 10 fish limit, or dorado, roosterfish, shad or tarpon, of which only two samples of this group are allowed, and which count as five toward the overall 10 fish limit. Limit on inland bodies of water (rivers, lakes, dams, etc.) is five fish per day, whether of a single species or in combination. Underwater fishing is limited to five fish per day, using rubber band or spring type harpoons, and only while skindiving. There is no limit to the practice of “catch and release” as long as the fish that exceed the bag limit be returned to their environment in good survival condition.

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Where sportfishing is conducted from boats out at sea for longer that three days, the bag limit will be the equivalent of three times the amounts mentioned above.

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It is illegal to capture and maintain alive any fish for ornamental purposes. It is prohibited to receive any financial gain from the product obtained through sportfishing. It is prohibited to dump trash, litter or substances that harm the aquatic flora or fauna, whether on lakes, river banks, shores or oceanic waters. It is prohibited to collect shells, corals, sea anemones and snails, or to disturb

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the original ecosystem environment. It is prohibited to practice sportfishing 250 meters or less from swimmers. It is prohibited to use artificial lighting to attract large quantities of fish. It is prohibited to discharge firearms in Mexican waters. Fish caught under a sportfishing license may not be filleted aboard the vessel from which it was caught. It is requested that all unusual activities, occurrences or record catches to be reported to the nearest Oficina de Pesca, or to its representation in San Diego, CA., in order to ensure the preservation of natural resources for the continued enjoyment of all fisherman.

Liz Brackin of Tiberon Casitas in Loreto, BCS by Liz Brackin.

Armando Rubio on a beach in San Felipe, BC By Laura Juarez de Rubio.

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If you receive the Red Light, there is room to Most boat enthusiasts are unaware how easy it is to travel with a boat to Northwest pull over and they may ask you to pull the cover Mexico. Not by boat, but with boat! Yes, I mean off the boat, show the boat registration and the hitching your favorite floating friend to your trailer title. Very simple and quick as long as truck or SUV and hauling it across the Mexican you have your paperwork, proper ID and are prepared. border to the beautiful Sea of Cortez. Numerous marinas exist in Northwest Crossing the border with a boat is not as difficult as one may think. In fact, quite the Mexico; typically larger towns have more than opposite is true; it’s a relatively simple task. one marina where you can launch, dry dock, To all those gringos who imagine they will lose and rent a slip by the day, weekend or year. their boat, wreck their boat or encounter foul Additionally, most marinas will flush the boat play if they cross the border and sail on the Sea out for around $5 and wash the boat for a small of Cortez, we outlined the skinny on how to fee. This will clean the saltwater out and get cross the border with the boat and what to do your boat ready to return back to the States. Puerto Peñasco, San Felipe, San Carlos, with it once you arrive in Mexico. Guaymas, Puerto Escondido, Santa Rosalina Checklist for a boat to cross the border: and La Paz all have marinas on the Sea of Current boat registration Cortez with available slips, water, power, • Title to the trailer • Owner’s passport (passport required showers, fuel docks and boat launch. Ensenada and Rosarito Beach also have as of June 9, 2009) When arriving at the border, stay in the same marinas on the Pacific Ocean. The best thing in many of these small lanes as any other vehicle. If you see the Green Light at the border, that means keep going nice villages (besides the clear blue, spectacular Sea of Cortez) is the proximity of the marinas and slow. 157

to the condos, hotels and homes. There are not many affordable places left in the world where you can drive your boat in the slip, jump out and head to your condo or hotel, and be door-to-door in 5–10 minutes. Depending on where you are in Northwest Mexico will determine your boating adventure. Depending on the type of boat, speedboat, sailboat or cruiser will determine how far you can travel. The weather, time of the year and your experience level will also determine what type of journey you embark on. Regardless, whether you find yourself on a long overnight adventure or a short day trip, floating on the calming waters with the sun in the sky and the clear blue water below you should be on the top of your not to be missed list. One way to cross the Sea of Cortez is to travel from San Felipe to Puerto Peñasco, either direction 73 nautical miles across with fullservice marinas in both ports. Depending on the speed of your boat will determine how long it takes you to cross the sea. My experience tells me with a cruiser or a sailboat plan on 6–8 hours across. If you have a speedboat and flat seas you’re looking at 2–3 hours. From either Puerto Peñasco or San Felipe you can head south and explore the Sea of Cortez. Puerto Peñasco to San Carlos/Guaymas will be a little longer trip, roughly 290 miles. Plan a week for this trip (one way) and get ready to take pictures and a journal, and be prepared. San Felipe to La Paz will provide a beautiful long sea journey through Bahia De Los Angeles, Santa Rosalina, Mulege, Loreto to La Paz. And of course, if you would rather head down the Baja Passage, depart from Ensenada or Rosarito Beach and head south the whole way to Cabo San Lucas. It is exciting how many choices exist for cruising the Sea of Cortez. Obviously, plan ahead, be safe and be prepared. In my opinion, the worst part about boating is getting off the boat. Leaving the crystal blue waters of the Sea of Cortez is the hardest part, not because of crossing the border with your boat, but merely due to the outrageously perfect weather you just boated in for the weekend and now have to leave. Actually, besides the heartache that the

vacation is over, crossing the border to reenter the USA is very simple. Follow your standard rules of crossing and be prepared for a few questions from the U.S. border, such as: Who owns the boat? • How long have you owned the boat? • Did you sleep on the boat? • Where did you go in the boat? Pretty simple. So, if you have a fishing, cruising or fun-loving boat you’ve been hauling around to the lakes, try something new and enjoy the gorgeous waters of the Sea of Cortez with dolphins, sea lions and flying fish. This marine jewel, teeming with life, is a beautiful ocean with plenty of room for everyone. Happy Boating Amigos!

San Carlos/Guaymas • Marina Real—356 slips full services fuel marinareal@prodigy.net.mx • Marina San Carlos—336 slips full services, fuel www.marinasancarlos. com

What do I need to cross the border with a boat? • Boat title and trailer registration • Passport (required as of June 1, 2009)

La Paz - 4 marinas with over 500 slips and full services and fuel • Costa Baja Resort & Marina • Marina Palmira • Marina de La Paz • Marina Fidepaz Singular • Go to www.exploringcortez.com and click on Marina’s link for details on each marina

Do I need to have a special vehicle permit to take the boat across the border? • No special permit or vehicle registration is needed to go into the State of Sonora or Baja Norte; it is part of the free zone. Is there any cost to bring my boat into Mexico? • No cost or charge—it’s absolutely free to enjoy the Sea of Cortez. Where can I keep my boat once I arrive in Mexico? Puerto Peñasco • Marina Puerto Peñasco—11 slips, services, fuel. Email: palvarez@ singlar.gob.mx • Safe Marina & Laguna de Juan—slips, dry dock long term and short term. Email: zaida.f.rembao@hotmail.com; or miguelacevedo71@live.com.mx

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San Felipe • Marina San Felipe—15 slips, facilities, fuel. Email: vmartinez@singlar.gob.mx

Puerto Escondido • Puerto Escondido Marina Singular—10 slips, water power fuel dock 117 mooring buoys throughout the bay • www.fonatur.gob.mx/mar_de_cortes/ Escalas_Nauticas/en/index_escondido Santa Rosalia • Santa Rosalia—20 slips, water power, fuel • www.fonatur.gob.mx/mar_de_cortes/ Escalas_Nauticas/en/index_sta_ rosalia.asp

Rosarito Beach • Marina Puerto Salina—over 200 slips 60 miles south of San Diego, full services, www.marinapuertosalina.co Ensenada • Ensenada Cruiseport Village - over 198 slips full services and fuel provisions, www.ecpvmarina.com Is there gas at the marina? Yes, both gas and diesel are available at Puerto Peñasco, San Felipe, Guaymas, San Carlos, Puerto Escondido, Santa Rosalia, La Paz, Ensenada and Rosarito.

What happens if my boat has a problem or needs repair? Contact any of the marina’s and they will refer you to a local contact. Always know the VHF channels of the closest marina. A good guidebook will go a long way. Where do I go cruising on the Sea of Cortez? • Anywhere and everywhere; how much time do you have? • Day trip to Bird Island (about 30 miles from Puerto Peñasco) • Enchanted Islands south of San Felipe • Various anchorages around the coast • Bahia de Los Angelas • Bahia Conception • Whale watching (seasonal) • Dolphin watching (play some Jimmy Buffet on your boat and watch them appear) Can I go fishing on The Sea of Cortez? • Absolutely, there is more sea life in the Sea of Cortez than anywhere else in the world. • Dorado, grouper, flounder to name a few • You must have a fishing license (approximately $10 a day or $40 a year) Do I need to watch the tide charts? • Most local newspapers or magazines have a tide chart. It is a good idea to look at one before your trip. Just be aware of high and low tides and reefs close to the shore. Visit www. mexicoliving.com or subscribe to the print edition of Mexico Living and receive one monthly.

Do I need to make a reservation prior to What do I need to reenter the United coming down? States? A reservation can be made by calling any • Passport (mandated as of June 1, of the marinas; this is suggested for busy weekends. 2009), boat registration and trailer title. 159

Learning Spanish will enhance your Baja experience. Photo by Enokson.

Contrary to popular belief, it’s not that easy to learn Spanish just by living in Mexico. If you want to communicate with locals and enhance your language skills, you have to make an effort. The easiest way to learn is to start with little chunks at a time. To assist you, we’ve collected the most common nouns, verbs, conjunctions, phrases, road signs, etc. As well as practicing the words and phrases every day, be sure to get out and talk to locals. Take this guide along to assist you. Speaking to others in Spanish will help you with proper pronunciation and tone, and enhance your listening and speaking skills. If you practice the information given here every day, you’ll see a dramatic improvement in your Spanish skills in no time.

Baja cactus by Uhhhlaine.

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i................................................. like ee in see o................................................. like o in rose u .............like oo in shoot; silent following q or g, except when written with an umlaut (ü) ai, ay.............................................like y in try au.............................................like ow in cow ei, ey..........................................like ay in day ie........................................... like ye in yellow oi, oy......................................... like oy in boy

b...... b and v are the same; at the beginning of a word or after m or n, like an English b without a strong puff of breath; otherwise intermediate between an English b and an English v. c.....before a, o, u, and any consonant but h, like k in kitten; before e or i, like s in sit. cc..........................................like cc in accept d.........................at the beginning of a word or a............................................... like a in father after n or l, like English d without strong puff of e................................................... like e in ten 161

breath; otherwise, like a softer th in this. g................................. when followed by e or i, like h in hit; otherwise like g in gold. h............................................................ silent j................................................... like h in hot; ll...................................................like y in yes q..like k in kite, followed by ue or ui (u is silent) r.............. at the beginning of a word or before a pause at the end of a word, like rr; otherwise like dd in ladder. rr..................................with a pronounced trill ü...........................................like ny in canyon v.....................................................same as b x......................like English x; in words derived from Native American languages, sometimes pronounced like h in hit (Mexico) y........................standing alone, like Spanish i; otherwise like Spanish ll z....................... ..in Latin America, like s in sit

1. all, every..............................................todo 2. best, better (adv)................................mejor 3. certain, sure, true..............................cierto 4. each, every......................................... cada 5. first.................................................primero 6. good................................................. bueno 7. his, her, their, your (fam).........................su 8. little, few; a little bit (adv.)....................poco 9. less, fewer....................................... menos 10. larger, older, main............................mayor 11. large, great, big..............................grande 12. more..................................................más 13. much, many, a lot..........................mucho 14. my........................................................mi 15. new................................................ nuevo 16. our................................................ nuestro 17. other, another..................................... otro 18. same.............................................mismo 19. some, someone (pron)................... alguno 20. so much, so many............................tanto 21. such (a)................................................tal

22. that (over there)............................... aquel 23. that..................................................... ese 24. the (+ neuter)........................................lo 25. this.................................................... este

1. after...............................................después 2. almost, nearly...................................... casi 3. already, still.............................................ya 4. also............................................... también 5. also, as well, besides..................... además 6. always, forever.............................. siempre 7. before................................................ antes 8. during, for (time)............................. durante 9. here..................................................... aqui 10. how?...............................................cómo 11. inside..............................................dentro 12. later, afterward................................. luego 13. like that................................................ así 14. only, just............................................sólo 15. never, ever...................................... nunca 16. no.........................................................no 17. now.................................................ahora 18. so, then......................................entonces 19. such, as, too........................................tan 20. there....................................................ahi 21. there, over there................................... allí 22. today, nowadays.................................hoy 23. very, really.........................................muy 24. well.................................................... bien 25. yes........................................................sí

1. although, even though..................... aunque 2. and...........................................................y 3. because...........................................porque 4. but, however........................................mas 5. but, yet, except....................................pero 6. but, except, rather................................sino 7. like, as...............................................como 8. not even, neither, nor................................ni 162

9. or............................................................ o 10. that, which..........................................que 11. then, well then................................... pues 12. while, whereas; as long as.......... mientras 13. where.............................................donde 14. when............................................ cuando 15. whether, if..............................................si

1. case, occasion.................................... caso 2. country................................................ país 3. day........................................................día 4. end.........................................................fin 5. form, shape, way.............................. forma 6. hand..................................................mano 7. hour, time............................................hora 8. house................................................. casa 9. life....................................................... vida 10. man, mankind; husband................hombre 11. manner, way................................. manera 12. moment, time............................momento 13. part, portion..................................... parte 14. people............................................. gente 15. person......................................... persona 16. place, position..................................lugar 17. point, dot, period..............................punto 18. time, weather................................. tiempo 19. time (number of times)........................ vez 20. thing................................................. cosa 21. type, kind............................................tipo 22. woman, wife....................................mujer 23. work, job, effort.............................trabajo 24. world.............................................mundo 25. year....................................................año

1. according to...................................... según 2. after, behind..........................................tras 3. against, opposite...............................contra 4. before, in the presence of.....................ante 5. between, among.................................entre

6. by means of................................. mediante 7. except (for).....................................excepto 8. for, to, in order to.................................para 9. for, by, through...................................... por 10. from, since..................................... desde 11. in..........................................................en 12. of, from.................................................de 13. on top of, over, about.......................sobre 14. to, at.......................................................a 15. toward............................................. hacia 16. until, up to, even (adv)..................... hasta 17. under, underneath..............................bajo 18. without................................................sin 19. with....................................................con

1. he / them.......................................él / ellos 2. I..............................................................yo 3. it........................................................... ello 4. it...................la [3rd person f. dir. obj. pron.] 5. it...................le [3rd person indir. obj. pron.] 6. it................lo [3rd person m. dir. obj. pron.] 7. me.........................................................me 8. me .......................................mi (obj. prep.) 9. nothing, (not) at all.............................. nada 10. nobody, anybody.............................. nadie 11. self [reflexive marker]............................se 12. something, somewhat........................algo 13. that.....................................................eso 14. she / them................................ ella / ellas 15. this one.............................................. éste 16. this....................................................esto 17. us.......................................................nos 18. we.............................................. nosotros 19. what? which? how (+ adj.)!...............qué 20. which?.............................................. cuál 21. which, who, whom............................. cual 22. who?, whom?.................................. quién 23. who................................................. quien 24. you (fam., obj.)......................................te 25. you (fam., subj.).............................. usted 163

35. to study ...................................... estudiar

14. How do you say?......... ¿Como se dice...?

36. to see..................................................ver

15. How much is it?..............¿Cuánto cuesta?

37. to speak, talk.................................. hablar

16. How’s the weather?....¿Qué tiempo hace?

38. to swim ..........................................nadar

17. I think there is a mistake in this bill.......Creo

39. to stay, remain...............................quedar

que hay un error en esta cuenta.

40. to seem, look like.......................... parecer

18. I’d like.......................................... Quisiera

41. to take, carry................................... llevar

19. I’d like to pay.......... ¿Me trae la cuenta por

42. to tell, say ........................................decir

favor?

43. querer...................................to want, love

20. I don’t speak (much) Spanish......No hablo

44. caminar........................................ to walk

mucho español.

45. trabajar......................................... to work

21. I don’t understand................. No entiendo.

45. escribir......................................... to write

22. I understand...........................Ya entiendo. 23. I’m lost.......................... Estoy perdido(a). 24. Is service included?........ ¿Está incluido el

Now that you have a solid vocabulary, let’s put

sevicio?

it together into phrases and putting it to use.

estar (to be) - estoy / estás / está / estamos / estáis / están

25. It is all together, please........Todo junto, por

Below are some of the most common phrases,

favor.

ir (to go) - voy / vas /va / vamos / vais / van

followed by common words and phrases for

26. My name is............................. Me llamo...

dar (to give) - doy / das / da / damos / dais / dan

specific situations and locations.

27. Small/medium/large..... pequeño/mediano/

ser (to be) - soy / eres / es / somos / sois / son

grande

haber (to have) - he / has / ha / hemos / habéis / han

28. Sorry!/Excuse me!.................... Lo siento!

1. Are you Ready?.............................. ¿Listo? 1. to ask..........................................preguntar 2. to arrive ............................................ llegar 3. to be able to................................. canpoder 4. to be ..................................................estar 5. to be .....................................................ser 6. to believe, think...................................creer 7. to buy............................................comprar 8. to call (telephone)............................. llamar 9. to climb .............................................subir 10. to close .......................................... cerrar

29. That was a very good meal...... La comida

17. to give ............................................... dar

2. Can you translate this for me?..............¿Puede

18. to go (leave).......................................... ir

traducirme esto, por favor?

19. to have ............................................tener

3. Could you repeat that?.....................¿Podría

20. to have ...........................................haber

repetírmelo, por favor?

21. to know, find out..............................saber

4. Could you speak more slowly?........¿Podría

22. to let, leave ......................................dejar

hablar más despacio, por favor?

23. to listen ..................................... escuchar

5. Do you speak English?........... ¿Habla usted

33. The…doesn’t work?.......... No funciona…

24. to live ................................................ vivir

inglés?

34. What is this amount for?................¿A qué

25. to look for ..................................... buscar

6. Do you understand?.................. ¿Entiende?

corresponde esta cantidad?

26. make , to do.....................................hacer

7. Fine, thanks, and you?...........Bien, gracias.

35. What’s your name?.......¿Cómo te llamas?

27. to open ............................................ abrir

Y usted?

36. What’s this?....................... ¿Qué es esto?

estuvo deliciosa. 30. Thanks for your help............Gracias por su ayuda. 31. The bathroom............................... el baño 32. The bicycle.............................. la bicicleta

28. to order (ask for)...............................pedir

8. Good afternoon....................Buenas tardes.

37. What time is it?.................. ¿Qué hora es?

11. to dance ......................................... bailar

29. to pass, spend time..........................pasar

9. Good-bye..........................................Adiós.

38. We’d like to pay separately........Queremos

12. to drink .......................................... tomar

30. to pay .............................................pagar

10. Good evening/Good night.............. Buenas

pagar separado.

13. to drive ....................................... manejar

31. to pick up .....................................recoger

noches.

39. Where are you from?..... ¿De dónde eres?

14. to eat .............................................comer

32. to put on, get (+ adj).......................poner

11. Good morning........................Buenos días

40. Where do you live?............¿Dónde vives?

15. to find .......................................encontrar

33. should, ought to; to owe...................deber

12. Hello/Hi!................................Hola/Qué tal!

41. Where is...?..................... ¿Dónde está...?

34. to sleep ......................................... dormir 164

13. How are you?......................¿Cómo está?

16. to follow ........................................ seguir

165

Do you have (plural)_____?..... Tienen_____?

resfriado

What time is breakfast?..........A que hora es el

beverage...........................................la bebida

Do you have a table for 2?.....¿Tienes una

Condoms................... preservativos/condones

desayuno?

bill....................................................la cuenta

mesa para dos (2) personas?

Cheap...................................................barato

Where is my ______?.Donde esta mi _____?

bread.................................................... el pan

Does it come with salad?.............. ¿Viene con

Do you have this in my size?.....¿Tiene esto de

credit card........................ la tarjeta de crédito

ensalada?

mi talla?

cup.......................................................la taza

Have you eaten?........................ Has comido?

English-language books.......... libros en inglés

How far to the next town?..................hasta qué

dessert............................................. el postre

I have a table reserved for John.......Tengo una

An English-language newspaper...un periódico/

punto a la siguiente ciudad?

fork................................................. el tenedor

reserva para John

diario en inglés

How far to a gas station?.......................¿A qué

glass...................................................el vaso

I would like to order dinner now....Quiero pedir

An English-Spanish dictionary...un diccionario

distancia de una estación de gasolina?

knife............................................... el cuchillo

una cena ahora

inglés-español

I’m going to the airport.........Voy al aeropuerto

menu................................................. el menú

I would like ___....................... Quisiera_____

Expensive................................................caro

I’m lost................................. Estoy perdido(a)

menu of the day..........................menú del día

I’d like a fajita, please.....................Quiero una

How much is this?................¿Cuánto cuesta?

Our car broke down....Nuestro carro se rompió

napkin........................................... la servilleta

fajita, por favor

I can’t afford it.................Es muy caro para mí

Take the next right .Coja la proxima a la derecha

pepper...........................................la pimienta

I’d like to reserve a table for two......... Quisiera

I don’t want it..............................No lo quiero.

The second left........La segunda a la izquierda

pepper shaker..............................el pimentero

reservar una mesa para dos.

I need............................................... Necesito

Where’s my suitcase? ...............Donde esta mi

plate................................................... el plato

Lunch..............................................Almuerzo

I’m not interested................... No me interesa.

maleta?

rare............................................. poco cocido

That was delicious................Estuvo delicioso.

OK, I’ll take it...............................De acuerdo,

Where can I buy a tire? ........... ¿Dónde puedo

salt........................................................ la sal

The bill, please.................La cuenta, por favor.

me lo llevaré.

comprar un llanta?

salt shaker.........................................el salero

This is not what I ordered............Esto no es lo

Pain reliever. (e.g., aspirin or ibuprofen)..........

saucer.............................................. el platillo

que he pedido

analgésico (Aspirina, Ibuprofeno)

spicy.................................................. picante

Waiter!........................................... Camarero!

A pen............................................. una pluma

Can you help me?...............Puede ayudarme?

spoon.............................................la cuchara

What would you like to drink?..... ¿Que quieres

Postage stamps............................ estampillas

Could you repeat, please?.....................Puede

table.................................................. la mesa

beber?

A postcard......................................una postal

repetir, por favor?

tip................................................... la propina

What do you recommend?...¿Qué recomienda

Soap...................................................... jabón

Do you have the time (polite)?...Tiene la hora?

waiter........................ el mesero / el camarero

usted?

Sunblock lotion............................ crema solar

Excuse me/may I?.............................Permiso

well-done......................................bien cocido

What would you like to eat?....... ¿Que quieres

Tampons......................................... tampones

How old are you?...........Cuantos años tienes?

comer?

That’s too expensive........ Es demasiado caro.

Is there a pharmacy nearby?................Hay una

What type of ... do you have...... ¿Qué clase de

A toothbrush................... un cepillo de dientes

farmacia cerca?

... tiene?

Toothpaste.............................pasta de dientes

I’m looking for a good restaurant...... Busco un

A beer please, please...Una cerveza, por favor.

What is included?............ ¿Qué está incluido?

An umbrella.................................un paraguas

restaurante bueno

A glass of wine...................... Un vaso de vino

Where is there a good restaurant?....Dónde hay

Would you take dollars?.....¿Aceptan dólares?

I’m sorry.......................................... Lo siento

An ashtray................................... Un cenicero

un buen restaurante? .

Writing paper..................... papel para escribir

Listen/can you hear me?......................... Oiga

You’re cheating me...........Me está engañando.

Listen to me..................................Escuchame

Are you hungry?..................¿Tienes hambre?

Look........................................................Mira

Breakfast........................................ Desayuno Can you bring me ... ?....... ¿Puede darme ... ?

Batteries................................................. pilas

Could you bring me the menu?........ Me puede

Can I have a bag?.............. ¿Tiene una bolsa?

I don’t have any towels..........No tengo toallas

Where are you from?............. De donde eres?

traer la carta?

Can you ship it to my country?............¿Puede

I have a booking................. Tengo una reserva

Where is the beach?.......Donde esta la playa?

Dinner .................................................. Cenar

enviarlo a mi país?

I want sea views............ Quiero vistas del mar

Where is the bus stop?................Donde esta la

Do you have (singular)_____?... Tiene_____?

Cold medicine................ medicamento para el 166

Sorry to bother you..........Disculpa la molestia

My room is dirty........Mi habitacion esta sucia

parada del autobus? 167

______ is busy!..........¡______ está ocupada! ______ is not available!..... ¡_______ no está! Can you speak slowly? ...............¿Podría usted

Ground beef............................... Carne molida

Papaya............................................... Papaya

Months are not capitalized.

Ribs.................................................. Costillas

Pear.........................................................Pera

January.................................................enero

Pork chop........................................... Chuleta

Pineapple.................................... Piña / Ananá

February..............................................febrero

Liver....................................................Hígado

Raisins................................................. Pasas

hablar más despacio?

March...................................................marzo

Don’t hang up.................................. no colgar

April.........................................................abril

Good luck -............................... Buena suerte! I would like to talk to _____ ........¡Quería hablar con ______! Leave a message....................dejar un recado Leave your name and number...............dejar su nombre y número May I talk to ______?........¿Puedo hablar con ____? May I leave a message?......¿Puedo dejar algo

May.......................................................mayo June...................................................... junio July......................................................... julio August................................................. agosto September.....................................septiembre October...............................................octubre November...................................... noviembre December....................................... diciembre

Ham.................................................... Jamón Tongue................................................ Lengua Steak.....................................................Lomo Sausages...................................... Longanizas Kidneys............................................. Riñones

Artichokes.................................... Alcachofas

Sausages, Hot Dogs, Wieners........Salchichas

Avocado.......................................... Aguacate

Bacon............................................................

Beans..................................................Frijoles

Tocino, Panceta

Beet.................................................... Betabel

Tripe..................................................... Tripas

Bell pepper................................Chile pimiento Broccoli...............................................Brócoli Cabbage............................................. Repollo

Repeat your name/number.................repetir su nombre/número

Days are not capitalized.

Tell him/her that I called.........decirle que llamé

Monday................................................. lunes

This is _____................................ Soy _____

Tuesday...............................................martes

Wait a moment................esperar un momento

Wednesday......................................miércoles

Who is this?..............................¿Quién habla?

Thursday..............................................jueves

Who I’m talking to?............¿Con quién hablo?

Friday................................................. viernes Saturday............................................. sábado Sunday............................................. domingo

Can I use your phone?........... ¿Puedo usar su teléfono? Leave me alone....................... Déjame en paz. I’ll call the police.............. Llamaré a la policía. I need help............................. Necesito ayuda. I lost my purse/handbag.............Perdí mi

Watermelon......................................... Sandia

Pork fillet................................. Lomo de cerdo

dicho?

Don’t touch me!...................... ¡No me toques!

Raspberry......................................Frambuesa

Apple................................................Manzana Apricot......Albaricoque, Chabacano, Damasco Blackberry............................................. Mora Blueberry.........................................Arándano Banana...............................................Banano Coconut................................................. Coco

Carrot..............................................Zanahoria Cauliflower...........................................Coliflor Celery..................................................... Apio Chile pepper............................................Chile Corn....................................................... Maíz

Cherry................................................. Cereza

Cucumber............................................ Pepino

Cantaloupe............................................ Melón

Garlic........................................................ Ajo

Dates................................................... Dátiles

Green onions...................................Cebollitas

Figs.......................................................Higos

Green beans......................................... Ejotes

Guava............................................... Guayaba spring..........................................la primavera

Lettuce............................................. Lechuga

Gooseberry........................ Ribes / Uva-crispa

summer............................................el verano

Mushrooms.............................. Champiñones

Grapefruit............................................ Toronja

autumn.............................................. el otoño

Onion.................................................. Cebolla

Grape........................................................Uva

winter.............................................el invierno

Lemon..................................................Limón

bolsa/bolso/cartera.

Mandarin....................................... Mandarina

I lost my wallet......... Perdí mi cartera/billetera.

Mango.................................................Mango

Peas.................................Arvejas / Guisantes Peanut.................................Cacahuate / Mani Potato.....................................................Papa Pickles.............................................Pepinillos

I’m sick................................ Estoy enfermo/a.

Meat | Carne

Orange................................................Naranja

I’ve been injured.......................Estoy herido/a.

Beef............................................ Carne de res

Plum....................................................Ciruela

I need a doctor................ Necesito un médico.

Lamb................................................. Cordero

Prune...........................................Ciruela seca

Spinach............................................Espinaca

It’s an emergency............ Es una emergencia.

Pork...................................................... Cerdo

Peach................................................Durazno

Sweet corn...........................................Helote

Police!............................................... ¡Policía!

Veal.................................................... Ternera

Pomegranate......................................Granada

Sweet Potato.......................................Camote

Stop! Thief!...................................Alto, ladrón! Beefsteak.............................................. Bistec 168

Passion Fruit................. Grenadilla / Maracuyá

Tomato............................................... Tomate 169

Radish................................................Rábano

170

171

172

173

174