NORTH BAY BOH EMI A N | DEC E M BE R 25 – 3 1 , 20 1 3 | BO H E M I AN.COM
14
N A PA CO U N TY
Wineries
Most reviews by James Knight. Note: Those listings marked ‘WC’ denote wineries with caves. These wineries are usually only open to the public by appointment. Wineries in these listings appear on a rotating basis.
SONOMA CO U N TY D’Argenzio Winery Much like the family-run, backstreet bodegas of the old country that the decor invokes. Sangiovese, Moscato di Fresco, and Randy Rhoads Cab. 1301 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa. Daily 11am–5pm. $10 tasting fee. 707.280.4658.
Graton Ridge Cellars Formerly an apple shed beloved by regular customers who drove up to get juice and apples, this tasting room is clean and contemporary, with a bit of wine country art on the walls, and an apple dessert wine. The apples are not gone after all. 3561 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. Daily, 10am– 4:30pm. $10. 707.823.3040.
Gundlach Bundschu Winery (WC) A fun, casual winery with enjoyable wines. Lots of music events on the grounds in the summer. 2000 Denmark St., Sonoma. Open daily, 11am–5:30pm, June to mid-Oct.; 11am–4:30, mid-Oct. to May . 707.938.5277.
Hanzell Vineyards The grand dame of Burgundianstyle Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, since 1957. The site of many California firsts; a visit is a pilgrimage. 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. Tour and tasting by appointment only, $45. 707.996.3860. Kamen Estate Wines Key lines from screenwriter Robert Kamen’s features are available on T-shirts, packaged in film cans. Cabernet Sauvignon with intense red fruit flavor over inky tannins. Insert chase scene, destination: 111-B E. Napa St., Sonoma. Monday–Thursday, noon–6pm; Friday–Sunday, 11am–6pm. Tasting fees, $20 and $35. 707.938.7292.
Landmark Vineyards There’s more to Landmark than Chardonnay. 101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood. Open daily, 10am–4:30pm. 707.833.0053.
Larson Family Winery Barbecue wine alert! 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma. Open daily, 10am–5pm. 707.938.3031.
Novy Family Winery Daily tastings by appointment in a no-nonsense warehouse, and is better known as a celebrated member of the “Pinot posse” by its other moniker, Siduri. 980 Airway Court, Ste. C, Santa Rosa. 707.578.3882.
Occidental Road Cellars High-end clients like Schramsberg and RadioCoteau buy most of the Prathers’ grapes; just 5 percent are made into their own wine, and at a comparative “grower’s discount.” Chard, Pinot, and cool-climate Syrah at its very best. 2064 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Building 7, Sebastopol. By appointment, Saturday 1–4pm. 707.874.9470.
Quivira Winery Certified biodynamic producer that promotes creek stewardship and steelhead-salmon-habitat restoration. Dry Creek Zinfandel is a regular favorite; Mourvèdre and other Rhône varietals are outstanding. As the steelhead have lately rediscovered, Quivira is worth returning to year after year. 4900 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. Open daily, 11am–5pm. 800.292.8339.
Russian River Vineyards The iconic, Fort Ross–styled building may have bats in the attic, but the remodeled tasting room and restaurant feature crisp, delicious libations and a new menu. Nice Chileno Valley Riesling and Sonoma Coast Syrah. Look for the Bat Blend; proceeds benefit the bats. 5700 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Forestville. 11am to 5pm daily. $5 fee. 707.887.3344.
St. Anne’s Crossing Another Zinfandelic brand from the stable of Ken Wilson. Yawn? No, more like yum. 8450 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood. Daily, 11am–5pm. Tasting fee, $10. 707.598.5200.
Sebastiani The winery is charming and warm,
with wines that are mostly straightforward, honest affairs. One of the best picnic areas around. 389 Fourth St. E., Sonoma. Open daily, 10am– 5pm. 707.933.3230.
Tin Barn Vineyards Yes, it is located in a tin barn, of sorts–in the midst of a remote industrial park, home to “Eighth Street wineries.” From allspice to Jolly Rancher, coriander, fresh raspberry, jelly Danish and horsetail to a simply enjoyable claret style quaff, it’s all flavor and no frills in this friendly warehouse winery. 21692 Eighth St. E., Ste. 340, Sonoma. Saturday– Sunday, 11am–4pm. Tasting fee, $6. 707.938.5430.
Twomey Cellars Framed by the spacious environs, through a massive glass wall, a panoramic $10 million view of the Russian River Valley awaits tasters. 3000 Westside Road, Healdsburg. Open daily, 9am–5pm. 800.505.4850.
WALT Wines Chardonnay and Pinot specialists Roessler sold their brand to Kathyrn and Craig Hall. The bar is compact, the atmosphere casual, the young fellows running the joint good-humored. Wow, this is Pinot Noir? Yes, toots, this is Pinot Noir. 380 First Street West, Sonoma. Open daily, 11am–6pm. Tasting fee, $10. 707.933.4440.
MARIN CO U N TY Bacchus & Venus A trendy place for beginners and tourists. Great place to learn the basics. 769 Bridgeway, Sausalito. Open daily, noon– 7pm. 415.331.2001. Point Reyes Vineyards The tasting room features many varietals but the main reason to go is for the sparkling wines. Open Saturday–Sunday, 11am–5pm. 12700 Hwy. 1, Point Reyes. 415.663.1011.
Brown Estate Vineyards (WC) A beautifully restored and converted stone and redwood barn is the winery and tasting room facility at Brown Estate. And the construction of a 6,500-square-foot subterranean wine cave was completed in 2005. Visitors are currently limited to wine club members by appointment only. 3233 Sage Canyon Road, Napa. 707.963.2435.
Cain Think you know about what food to pair with Napa Valley “mountain grown” Cabernet Sauvignon? How about sake-marinated poached cod in a light broth? Yeah, it is different up here. 3800 Langtry Road, St. Helena. Tour and tasting by appointment only, Monday–Friday, 10am and 11:30am; Saturday, 10am and noon. $35. 707.963.1616.
Frog’s Leap Winery A good story is nearly as important as good wine; Frog’s Leap does a neat job on both. As you wind through the vineyard, the frog pond and the rustic 1884 winery, your tour guide finds bottles along the way, like Easter eggs. Dry-farming, who knew, can produce a beverage more thirst-quenching than water. 8815 Conn Creek Road, Rutherford. Daily, 10am–4pm. Tastings, $20; tours Monday– Friday, $20. 707.963.4704.
Napa Cab from celebrity consultant Michel Rolland and high-rollers who used to spend half the year in Hawaii? Well, yeah, but they’re super nice, work hard, and their wines are tops. Cab and Sauv Blanc. 3322 Old Lawley Toll Road, Calistoga. Tour and tasting by appointment only, $30. 707.942.9665.
Krupp Brothers Estates The story of Stagecoach Vineyards is of extremes: two miles end-to-end. One billion pounds of rock extracted. Seventy wineries buy the fruit; the Krupps release 2,000 cases including Black Bart Marsanne. 3265 Soda Canyon Road, Napa. Tours by appointment, $25. 707.260.0514. Tasting at A Dozen Vintners, 3000 Hwy. 29, St. Helena. Daily, 10am-5pm. 707.967.0666.
Raymond Vineyards
Monticello Vineyards
Robert Biale Vineyards
Thomas Jefferson had no success growing wine grapes; happily, the Corley family has made a go of it. Although winetasting is not conducted in the handsome reproduction building itself, there’s a shaded picnic area adjacent. 4242 Big Ranch Rd., Napa. Open daily, 10am–4:30pm. $15. 707.253.2802, ext. 18.
Was it the high scores that attracted the horde, or the excellence of the wine? It’s a chicken-and-egg type of question, but “Black Chicken” is neither chicken nor egg; it’s a bottle of Zinfandel. 4038 Big Ranch Road, Napa. By appointment daily, 10am–4pm. Tasting fees $20–$35. 707.257.7555.
Mumm Cuvée Napa
Storybook Mountain Vineyards (WC) Jerry
An intellectual outpost of art and wine housed in the century-old Christian Brother’s winery. Cab is the signature varietal. 4411 Redwood Road, Napa. Open daily, 10am–4pm. 707.255.1144.
Californian-style fizz factory, all barn and no chateau, offers a robust account of how the bubbles get in the bottle. Sparkling winetastings offered on the patio, or take it to the next level in plush love seats on the Oak Terrace. Sparkling red is novel; DVX Brut among the best in the valley. Photography gallery includes Ansel Adams prints and other exhibits. 8445 Silverado Trail, Napa. Open 10am–5pm daily. Tasting $6–$20; Oak Terrace $30. 707.967.7700.
Inglenook Vineyard
Nichelini Winery Take a
Hess Collection Winery
What’s new at Inglenook? Very little. The iconic stone building, robed in green vines, appears exactly as it did in 1890. But that’s news, and all thanks to owner Francis Ford Coppola. Still living up to Gustave Niebaum’s dream of fine wine to rival France, the oncebeloved Inglenook is putting out the goods once again. 1991 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford. Daily, 10am–5pm. Reservations for tour and tasting ($50) recommended; none required for bistro and exhibits. 707.968.1161.
Jericho Canyon Vineyard Oh boy, boutique
Valley was intended to inter this society’s finest bottles for the exclusive use of winepharaohs Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi in their afterlife; meanwhile, it’s available to the teeming masses. 7900 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville. 707.944.9442. By appointment daily, 10am–4pm. Tour and tasting, $60–$90; tasting only, $40. 707.944.9442.
joyride in the Napa backcountry and discover this rustic little winery that’s been in the family for generations. See the only Roman wine press in the Western Hemisphere. 2950 Sage Canyon Road, St. Helena. Saturday and Sunday, 10am– 5pm. No fee. 707.963.0717.
On the Edge A key stop for devotees of the cult to Charbono. 1255 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga. Open daily, 10am– 5:30pm. 707.942.7410.
Opus One Future archaeologists may conclude that this earthen mound located in the center of Napa
Burgundy scion Jean-Charles Boisset has put his stamp on staid Napa producer. See the Theater of Nature, depicting biodynamics; feel the Corridor of the Senses; luxuriate in the members-only Red Room, party in the gold-plated JCB Room; or just taste good Cab in the clublike Crystal Cellar. 849 Zinfandel Lane, St. Helena. Daily, 10am– 4pm. Fees vary. 707.963.3141.
and Sigrid Seps and a few likeminded winemakers founded Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP), through which they continue to proselytize on behalf of “America’s heritage grape.” 3835 Hwy. 128, Calistoga. By appointment. 707.942.5310.
Summers Estate Wines Excellent Merlot and that rarest of beasts, Charbono. Small tasting room and friendly staff. 1171 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga. Open daily, 10am–4:30pm. 707.942.5508.
Truchard Vineyards (WC) No matter how attentive you are to the directions, no matter how much you study the quaint, hand-drawn map found online, no matter how vigilantly you watch the street addresses numerically climb along Old Sonoma Road, you will inevitably miss Truchard Vineyards. What follows is a three-point turn on a blind, two-lane road, with a single thought in your head: “This wine had better be worth the insurance deductible.” But with Cabernet this good, it is. 3234 Old Sonoma Road, Napa. By appointment. 707.253.7153.