Okinawa Living Magazine July 2023

features

8

Magical Memories on the High Seas

If you thought that booking a cruise on a luxury liner would have to wait until returning to the U.S., the good news is that’s not the case. Plan your cruise while you’re here on Okinawa with MCCS Tours+!

16

Carrying on a Tofu Tradition

A culinary mainstay for thousands of years originating in China, tofu is an essential component of meals on Okinawa as well. Learn more about the Zukeran family, and how tofu has been a vital part of their lives and livelihood for generations.

56 Matsurizoku

The people of Okinawa are known throughout Japan as matsurizoku —which translates into “festival people.” This year, why not join in the fun at one of the island’s upcoming festivals?

restaurant review

44 Tacos and Coffee

Esparza’s Tacos and Coffee, located in Chatan, serves up some of the best brew and delicious tacos this side of the East China Sea.

July 2023

kids + parents

45

Back to School Extravaganza

Although many kids won’t appreciate the combination of the terms “back to school” and “extravaganza,” this event promises tons of fun and FREE school supplies!

47

Kids Bowl FREE

Before summer ends, how about gathering the kiddos and heading to an MCCS Bowling Center for a few games of FREE bowling?

services

51

Typhoon Motors Summer Sales

29

fitness + fun

27

The Far East Bodybuilding Competition

It’s time once again for the bodybuilding spectacle of spectacles! On July 23, head to the Camp Foster Theater to see who will lay claim to the title of “Beast of the East” at the 2023 Far East Bodybuilding Competition.

29

Summer Fit Camp

Take control of your life and make life-changing improvements to both your health and your wellbeing this summer at Fit Camp!

29

It’s a Summer Futbol Extravaganza!

Futbol fanatics unite! It’s time to polish your cleats for not one, but TWO summer soccer tournaments happening on Camps Foster and Kinser.

marines + families

35

Retrain Your Brain

Want to reinvent yourself into a better, more centered you, but don’t know where to start?

Begin by enrolling in Retrain Your Brain—a fourweek class that explores communication skills and stress management.

37

Stay Safe!

Experiencing an injury can impact many aspects of your life, your finances and can even lead to the development of chronic illnesses. Learn how you, too, can stay safe while exercising!

dining + entertainment

39

Kaboom at Bonsai!

Throughout the month of July, coffee enthusiasts are in for a unique and delicious treat—the KABOOM at Bonsai Coffee locations island wide. So, what makes it a KABOOM? Turn to p. 39 to find out!

39

Instant Gratification in a Frosty Cup No, it’s not what you’re thinking of…we’re talking about milkshakes, of course! Head to your nearest Bulldogs Burger location and try their new Classic Milkshakes—available in vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and coffee flavors.

Keep your tires road ready, your car tunedup and your sound system top-notch with Typhoon Motors Summer Sales—featuring 15% off ALL car audio gear!

53

Warehouse Sale!

Did you know that MCCS conducts weekly sales of excess Non-appropriated Fund (NAF) property every Wednesday —including computers, monitors, furniture, sporting equipment, recreational equipment and more? extras

5 Mensôre

7 Feedback & Show Us!

69 Living on Okinawa

70 Marketplace Guide

CHIEF OF STAFF, MCCS, MCIPAC

Edward S. Hutsell

DEPUTY ASSISTANT CHIEF OF STAFF, MCCS DIRECTOR, MCCS, MCB CAMP BUTLER

Michael S. Gieseck

DEPUTY MCCS DIRECTOR MARINE & FAMILY PROGRAMS

Carlos J. Saldaña

DEPUTY MCCS DIRECTOR BUSINESS & SUPPORT

Hyun Woo Chang

CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER

Jim Kassebaum

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Mike Daley

MCCS ART DIRECTOR

Henry C. Ortega

OKINAWA LIVING ART DIRECTORS

Margie Shimabukuro, Emily Wright

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS

Tiffany Kim, Alora Wilson, Deanna Berg, Meghan Johnson

DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER

Thomas Alan Smilie

PHOTOGRAPHERS/VIDEOGRAPHERS

Kathlene Millette, Mia Cox, Kirstin Spanu

EDITORIAL

Dani Livesey

DIGITAL & SOCIAL MEDIA

Roxine Ami, Tiara Supakit

CULTURAL RESEARCH SPECIALIST

Ayako Kawamitsu

ADVERTISING SALES & SPONSORSHIP MANAGER

John Dailey

ADVERTISING SALES & SPONSORSHIP

Yoshihiro Shinzato, Hiromitsu Horikawa

Terumi Nagai, Ada Tovar, Tsutomu McCoy

MARKETING ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Andrew Menges

MARKETING ACCOUNTS

Bethany Ramirez, Latoya Cardona, Eduardo Sanchez Perry

DISTRIBUTION

Wataru Yamanoha, Shohei Ikene

MARKETING INTERNS

Jasmine Bocanegra

We welcome your comments. Please send letters to editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org

For advertising | 広告掲載のお問い合わせ (日本語可) 098-970-2245 (phone) | 098-970-0975 (fax) sales@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org (email)

See our advertising rates at okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/advertise

MCCS MARKETING BRANCH

MCB Camp S.D. Butler. Unit 35023, FPO AP 96378-5023

mensôre

Ah…summertime!

Summer is officially here! Although that means heat will be soaring into the 90s and some of us will retreat to our air-conditioned living rooms waving our white flags of surrender, it also means most of us can enjoy the delightful sensation of sugar-fine sand between our toes, snorkeling and diving in crystal-clear azure waters, devouring delightful beach-side ice cream cones and enjoying the reverberating sounds of taiko drums and eisa dancers preparing for the summer festival season.

July traditionally marks the beginning of the season of celebration on Okinawa with matsuri , or festivals, held throughout the island. This year, hundreds of thousands of people will flock to festival venues to enjoy festival foods, play games, enjoy music and watch fireworks displays for the first time in seemingly forever.

There are several opportunities to enjoy matsuri on the island during the summer months and beyond. Virtually all of the larger cities, many smaller municipalities—even down to small villages and private companies—hold their own matsuri each with a flavor of its own. Whether large or small, there’s no better opportunity to make new friends among the local community and learn more about Okinawan culture. To learn more about upcoming festivals on Okinawa, turn to p. 56.

If crowds aren’t your thing, how about treating yourself to more of that aforementioned local culture by turning to p. 16 to learn more about tofu, its importance to the people of Okinawa and an enterprising Okinawan family that revived its tofu business by turning to…food trucks?

As always, we thank you for picking up this issue of Okinawa Living Magazine Now, time to turn the page and let your journey begin!

COMMANDING GENERAL, MCIPAC

Major General Stephen E. Liszewski

ASSISTANT

Mike Daley Editor-In-Chief

TROY’s Military and Family Scholarship caps the cost of tuition at $250 per credit hour for active-duty military. Also, your spouse and family members receive up to 50% in tuition savings.

Contact the program coordinator nearest you for more information.

KADENA AB kadena@troy.edu

DSN 634-7464

MISAWA AB misawa@troy.edu

DSN 226-3748

OSAN AB osan@troy.edu

DSN 784-8151

CAMP HUMPHREYS humphreys@troy.edu

DSN 755-3534

Term I 2023

Aug. 14 - Oct. 15, 2023

Registration begins: May 8, 2023

Term II 2023

Oct 16 - Dec 17, 2023

Registration begins: Sept. 25, 2023

Term III 2024

Jan. 8 - March 10, 2024

Registration begins: Nov. 27, 2023

Term IV 2024

Mar 18 - May 19, 2024

Registration begins: Feb. 26, 2024

troy.edu/pacific

2nd Lt. Brandon Williams U.S. Army (’21)

The Foster Arts and Crafts team is second to none. Both Chris Ezeff and Ana Renfeld are absolute professionals. They’re extremely knowledgeable, courteous and they always provide excellent support and services. I have placed numerous orders with them, and the results are always phenomenal. I could not have asked for better services and support!

—via ICE

I want to thank Mr. Larry Sewing and Mr. Dustin Graak for their help in getting my JCI done on my vehicle. My car had many issues that an off-base vendor couldn’t fix so I brought it to Typhoon Motors on Camp Foster. Both Larry and Dustin were very friendly and helpful. On the day I dropped my car off, they did not have a loaner vehicle, but called me the next day when one was returned! What a relief to put this behind me. If anyone has car issues, go to Typhoon Motors on Camp Foster, and ask for either of those two individuals!

—via ICE

I wanted to take a second to send a sincere “thank you” to the staff at Courtney Ironworks Fitness Center for all their assistance in providing equipment and services for Chura Warabi Child Development Center’s Month of The Military Child Festival. Ever Wong and his staff— Nysa Swanson, Lou Jones, Daiki Yamashiro, Samantha Cook, Victor Jones, Takami Azama and Masaaki Taira— all went above and beyond our expectations to help us celebrate our military children. Every interaction was met with kindness and a genuine desire to assist us in completing the mission of offering a fun, engaging and safe festival. It can be challenging to procure necessary equipment for events, but Mr. Ever and his team alleviated much of these difficulties and the Chura Warabi team is extremely grateful. Thank You!

—via ICE

My unit and I just rotated back to the states, but we thought it would be a crime to not commend the customer service and hospitality we received while stationed on Camp Hansen. The staff at the Hansen Bowling Center treated us like family the entire time and they pretty much taught our entire shop how to bowl properly. They always welcomed us with a smile, made sure we always got a lane, were quick with their service and always made sure we had a good time. We hope to see them again someday. Thank you for such a memorable time.

—via ICE

It (the 2023 Kitchen Warriors Cooking Competition) was a great experience! Thanks for having us on Okinawa.

—Team Yokota Culinary Ninjas via Facebook

Give MCCS Feedback—ICE Program & Facebook

Let us know how we can better serve you or thank us for a job well-done. Go to okinawa.usmc-mccs.org and find the ICE link in the “MORE” section of the homepage or find us on Facebook to share feedback. Comments on this page may be edited for clarity or length.

MAGICAL MEMORIES ON

THE HIGH SEAS

TEXT BY MIKE DALEY DESIGN & PHOTOS BY DEANNA BERG

Your day job

The next item on your bucket list ASAP

If you’ve thought to yourself “maybe I need a vacation” enough times...

…then maybe this is an answer in itself. It’s high time for a break from the daily grind. A weekend decompressing at Okuma may sound nice, as would pitching a tent at the Ama Beach Campsite on Zamami Island in the Keramas. But maybe it’s time to break out the heavy artillery and really get away from it all.

Sure, checking into your flight departing on an adventure is nice, but it can’t compare to the excitement of boarding a towering ship and

hearing the loud blaring of the vessel’s horn as it departs port. Sailing the high seas is an adventure in itself—one that has been setting hearts racing for hundreds of years.

Booking a cruise on a luxury liner has been considered the “ultimate” vacation by many of us for decades. It’s a journey that elicits images of sitting in a lounge chair being pampered and spoiled while traveling from one exotic destination to another.

Onboard Onsen!!

I had the pleasure of cruising aboard the Diamond Princess this April during sakura season, and the ship was almost as amazing as the destinations. When I wasn’t busy exploring historic shrines and gilded castles ashore, I was enjoying the seemingly never-ending features onboard. From soaking my tired feet in the ship’ s tattoo-friendly onsen, to watching the incredibly talented cast in the theater, to people- watching and playing trivia in the multiple lounges, there was truly never a dull moment. And if the stimuli ever became too much to bear, there was always room service!

A few vacation photos that I snapped are to the left.

-Deanna

If you’re thinking that enjoying such a seagoing excursion would have to wait until returning to the U.S., the good news is that’s not the case. MCCS Tours+ would be more than happy to plan your cruise while you’re here on Okinawa! From flights and ship transfers to hotels in between (or before/after) a leg in your voyage, Tours+ has your next cruise vacation covered. With available carriers that include MSC Cruises, Disney Cruise Line, CUNARD, Royal Caribbean International, Princess Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Celebrity Cruises, Viking Cruises and AMA Waterways, Tours+ can arrange a cruise for you just about anywhere in the world, and when you book through them, you might even receive free upgrades, perks and additional discounts!

Live Entertainment

The Ship's Atrium

A Warm Welcome @ the Port

Heian Shrine, Kyoto Kinkakuji, Kyoto

Those who have “explore Japan before returning to the U.S.” on their bucket list should check out Princess Cruises 14-day Highlights of Japan Cruise. This excursion will visit five ports, five evenings in luxurious hotels on dry land and even a ride in the famed bullet train!

Your journey begins in the ancient capital of Japan—Kyoto. You’ll have ample opportunity to explore this famed city’s greatest attractions including Nijo Castle, Kinkakuji Temple, Arashiyama and more. After visiting neighboring Nara—where you’ll visit the massive Buddha at Todaiji Temple and Kasuga

Taisha Shrine—you’ll board the bullet train to Tokyo.

On your first day in Tokyo, visit Meiji Shrine, Sensoji Temple and Nakamise Shopping Street and then explore the iconic Ginza District. On your second day in Tokyo, trade the vast city’s metropolitan areas for scenic natural beauty as you visit Lake Ashi, Mt. Fuji and Togendai. Next, drive to Hakone National Park and ride the Komagatake Ropeway to the observatory offering breathtaking views. The next day, you’ll see the best of Tokyo from atop the Tokyo Skytree Tembo Deck—which hovers 1,148 feet above the city—before transferring to Yokohama.

Anita Vacation Diamond Princess V105 2023 Japan

Sound exciting so far? Well, your journey has literally just begun! From there, you’ll board the Diamond Princess and cruise south to visit Kagoshima in southern Japan—the ancient chief stronghold of the mighty Shimazu Clan that features delicious cuisine and a multitude of hot springs and geysers. From there, you’ll leave Japan and visit Busan in South Korea, which features attractions such as Gamcheon Culture Village, Haeundae Beach, Beomeosa Temple, Jagalchi Market and much more.

After leaving Busan, you’ll cruise to beautiful northern Japan with stops in Aomori, Otaru and Hakodate. These areas are famed nationwide for picturesque natural scenery and their delicious seafood including salmon and ikura (salmon roe), scallops, crab and sea urchin. After filling your stomach with scrumptious cuisine, your lungs with brisk clean air, your heart with stress-free bliss and your mind (and memory cards) with priceless memories, you’ll once again set sail on your return journey to Yokohama Port.

Well, what are you waiting for? Call Tours+ at 646-3502 to plan your adventure on the high seas today! 

Tofu, though a recent food craze in America, has been around for thousands of years. Thought to have been originated in China during the Han dynasty by a cook who accidentally curdled their soymilk when adding seaweed, it’s beloved by vegetarians, vegans and omnivores alike. Beyond being delicious, tofu touts the benefit of keeping one’s heart healthy as it contains isoflavones and phytoestrogens while antioxidant compounds within it have anti-inflammatory properties.

On Okinawa, tofu is a food staple found in most homes. Slightly different from its mainland counterparts, tofu on Okinawa is more flavorful, has a firmer texture and contains more protein due to being made a slightly different way. Okinawans take great pride in their tofu, which is now known nationwide as shimadōfu, and one factory, Ikedaya Shokuhin, takes great pride in being able to supply the island with Okinawan tofu through a family business that’s spanned generations.

In years past on Okinawa, every family would make their own tofu, grinding the soybeans in a stone mortar. But it was time-consuming and hard work and, as time went on, it became more popular and convenient to purchase—thus a family business and tradition was born. It began with Hatsuko Zukeran who made delicious tofu, despite the time-intensive process. No stranger to hard work, she began the business by walking around with the heavy bags of tofu tied to a large stick, which she carried across her shoulders with her babies in tow as she made her sales.

For a long time, Hatsuko-san walked around locally, delivering directly to people in her community. But the business model grew when her son, Hirofumi Zukeran, took over and established the Ikedaya Tofu Factory in 1983.

The door-to-door visits evolved into delivering to local grocery stores three times a day. Local shoppers, knowing that the fresh tofu was the best tofu, would touch the bags to make sure they were still warm before buying. However, many bags of tofu weren’t purchased and when they returned to the factory, workers felt discouraged by the amount of work that was wasted.

This led Hiroshi Zukeran—the younger grandson who returned from Fukuoka Prefecture to assume control of the business after the tragic passing of his older brother Yoshihiro—to seek out new ideas from other tofu shops outside of Okinawa. He discovered that food truck sales were on the rise, and after experiencing their success himself, decided to give it a whirl.

At first, the food truck idea struggled to find its stride. Originally, they used countryside routes thinking that being farther away from grocery stores might make delivery service appealing, but this was not the case. Zukeran-san ended up knocking on doors from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day only to earn a measly ¥4,000. On a lark, he decided to take the food truck down to Naha, and to his great surprise it was an instant success. The novelty of being able to buy fresh tofu in the city caught on fast, and soon people were lining up in anticipation of when the food truck would arrive. Since folks often gathered around lunch, he turned to his wife, who is a tofu maestro, to help create delicious tofu recipes to sell.

Now known as Ikeda Shokuhin, the company boasts eight trucks that travel between Kin and Yomitan twice a day, stocking first thing in the morning and then restocking again at midday. They serve their Okinawan tofu and other delightful delicacies such as ganmo (deep-fried soy patties), oboro tofu (a potato salad style dish), yushidōfu (soft, semi-solidified tofu in a bonito flake broth which is the comforting Okinawan equivalent of American chicken soup), and frozen yushidōfu mixed with namo choco in an ice-cream like desert among many others.

Behind every block of tofu lies a fascinating process that transforms humble soybeans into a culinary delight. It takes a time and labor-intensive procedure to create the beloved soy-based product.

It all begins with selecting and cleaning soybeans. Ikeda Shokuhin takes pride in using only domestically grown soybeans for their food truck tofu and is the only shimadōfu producer to do so. Believe it or not, approximately 95% of soybeans used in tofu globally come from the United States. This commitment to ingredient quality and excellence is only part of the process that sets them apart.

Once the soybeans are procured, they undergo a thorough cleaning process before they are soaked in ionized water, to rehydrate, plump up and soften. The process can take several hours, and the duration varies depending on the temperature of the season, requiring delicate monitoring to achieve the perfect balance.

Once softened, the soybeans are ground into a smooth paste and gently squeezed to separate the liquid soy milk from the solid matter (called okara). After the soy milk is extracted, the liquid is heated for 40 to 50 minutes while being monitored and stirred by the workers. The temperature inside the factory can rise to over 50 degrees Celsius, but the sweltering heat encourages coagulation, a crucial process that transforms soy milk into curds. To stimulate the coagulation, Chatan salt is added along with nigari (a salt-based seawater coagulant), then it is left alone to solidify. At this point yushidōfu is ready, but the process continues to make the firmer shimadōfu.

Yushidōfu curds are then carefully placed into molds lined with and covered by cotton cloths, and excess liquid is further extracted through gentle pressing.

Finally, the tofu is removed from the molding box and cut into its block shape. This process ensures that each block of tofu possesses the desired taste, texture, and quality that enthusiasts on Okinawa have come to love.

Anyone wanting to partake of Ikedaya’s one-ofa-kind tofu or food truck delicacies can check out their website at ikedasyokuhin.com to find a food truck route near them. 

The Far East Bodybuilding Competition

The Beasts of the East

The tradition of awe, admiration and marveling at painstakingly crafted and maintained physiques continues as the Far East Bodybuilding Competition returns. The best bodybuilders and physique and figure competitors in the Pacific will once again compete at the fitness event of the year. Come see the biggest spectacle of muscle and brawn this year on July 23 at the Camp Foster Theater.

Since its inception, bodybuilding has always been about awe and admiration—and marveling at the perfectly crafted physiques of the elite athletes on stage. These contestants spend between four and six months in advance focusing on a combination of diet, strength training, cardiovascular training, posing practice and equipment prep for this, the culmination of their painstaking work and sacrifice.

The categories for the men’s division include Men’s Physique (which has different classes based on height), and Men’s Bodybuilding—the most muscular division. For women, the categories include Bikini, which is based more on muscle tone rather than development;

Figure, which looks for muscular symmetry and proportion; and Physique, which involves a 90-second individual posing routine and a higher level of muscle development.

During the day of competition, competitors will face a difficult schedule that starts with a preliminary round where all participants compete for top scores in order to make it to the final round. The final round then takes place in front of spectators and is considered the “big show” with the full audience.

Spectator tickets to cheer on the contestants can be purchased for $20 online through Eventbrite and include the special treat of seeing guest poser Akim Williams. Known as the “BK Beast,” Williams is one of the biggest competitors in the IFBB today, boasting 23-1/2inch arms when competing. Doors open at 3 p.m. and finals begin at 4 p.m. For more information visit okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/adultsports or email adultsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

Summer Fit Camp

Get off the Couch and into Action

Has the summer heat hit you with a wave of lethargy that’s got you feeling like a steamed couch potato? If so, consider signing up for Summer Fit Camp to motivate you to get off that couch and into a program that’ll lead to a fitter and happier you. Fit Camp is a program designed to help you build strength, confidence and motivation to keep you going with your fitness goals.

The next Fit Camp runs July 17 to August 25 and will be held on all camps (based on

contractor availability). Register before July 12 by visiting the front desk of the Semper Fit Fitness Center where you’d like to attend. Pricing for Fit Camp is per person, and you can choose either 12 sessions for $130 or 18 sessions for $199. Authorized ID card holders ages 18 and older are eligible to participate. For more information, please visit okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/healthpromotion or call 645-3910 from a DSN or 098-970-3910 from off base. 

It’s a Summer Futbol Extravaganza!

Open Soccer Tournaments on Camps Foster and Kinser

The island’s heating up, and the heat of competition will be at peak summertime levels at soccer tournaments on Camps Foster and Kinser! Are you the master of the banana kick from the corner? Is your offside trap good enough to fool the wiliest midfielder? Most importantly, is your team good enough to be crowned as the conquistadors of the pitches this summer? It’s time to find out! First, head to Camp Foster athletic fields July 15–16 for the Open 11v11 Soccer Tournament. The sign-up deadline for this tournament is July 10 (1 p.m.) via Eventbrite and the fee is $150 per team.

Next, gather your best and fastest for the Kinser Open 6v6 Soccer Tournament

It’s Glow Time!

Pool Parties and Neon Lights

In honor of Injury Prevention month, your Health Promotion team is throwing a party—a Glow Stick Pool Party to be precise. Join them at 8 p.m. on Friday, July 14, at the Camp Foster Aquatic Center and join in the fun! Designed to help spread the word about fitness formats that are easy on the joints and accessible to those who are recovering from an injury, this party in the pool will help introduce folks to aquatic fitness classes. Whether it be Amp-IT, Aqua Zumba or Yoga (SUP in the water), fitness classes in the water are a great workout and a blast to do!

Registration for this super fun neon night is FREE, open to all with base access ages 12 and older (though those 12-17 will need to attend with a parent or legal guardian present and have youth gym authorization) and should be done via Eventbrite by July 9. For more information visit okinawa. usmc-mccs.org/healthpromotion 

happening August 5–6 at the athletic fields on Camp Kinser. The sign-up deadline for Kinser’s tournament is July 31 (1 p.m.) via Eventbrite and the fee is also $150 per team.

Both soccer tournaments are open to teams island wide (consisting of players 16 and older) and awards will be given to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place teams.

For more information, head to okinawa. usmc-mccs.org/adultsports or facebook.com/ mccsokinawa.semperfit. If you have any questions, please email adultsports@okinawa. usmc-mccs.org or call 645-3521. 

Cornhole on Courtney Pitch Some Fun!

Most people associate cornhole with tailgating, backyard barbeque shenanigans and school fall festivals, but did you know there’s an official governing body for the rules and regulations of cornhole tournaments called the American Cornhole Association? In fact, there are rules for everything from court layout, board specifications and foul lines to bag standards including weight and material.

If you’re a cornhole aficionado with the knowledge and the skillset to compete in an official tournament who’s been waiting to show off those pitching skills, then you are in luck—the Bayview Enlisted Lounge is hosting the Courtney Open Cornhole Tournament on Saturday and Sunday, July 15 and 16. The game is open island wide to all participants ages 16 and older, prizes will be awarded for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place and registration can be completed online at okinawa.usmcmccs.org/adultsports. The registration deadline is July 12 at 11:30 p.m. and the participation fee is $20. 

Futenma Open Flag Football Tournament

Flag Football Warriors…Assemble!

It’s going down once again, as flag football warriors from all over the island will gather to battle for the flag football crown at the Futenma Open Flag Football Tournament on Saturday and Sunday, July 29 and 30, at the MCAS Futenma athletic fields.

Team rosters will consist of 20 players plus a coach (unless the coach plans on playing then he or she counts towards roster numbers). Eight players from the team will be allowed on the field at any given time and games will consist of two 20-minute halves. To qualify to compete, teams must show up 30 minutes prior to their game start time in approved attire—shorts without pockets and tucked in T-shirts (which must remain tucked in for the duration of the game). As for footwear, the only cleats prohibited are metal ones (if you don’t own a pair of cleats, a good pair of running shoes should suffice). Make sure to bring your ‘A’ game, as prizes will be awarded to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place teams.

This tournament is open to everyone island wide ages 16 and older. Prospective participants can register their team by July 24 (1 p.m.) via Eventbrite for $150. For more information, head to okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/adultsports, or follow Semper Fit on Facebook for event updates and future happenings at facebook.com/mccsokinawa.semperfit. For questions and a list of the bylaws, email Adult Sports at adultsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org

Courtney Open Kickball Tournament

Not Just School Yard Fun

Gather your team, hone your leadoff skills and prepare for an unforgettable weekend of fierce kickball competition at the Courtney Kickball Tournament on July 29 and 30 at the Camp Courtney athletic field. This thrilling event is open island wide to both SOFA and non-SOFA participants ages 16 and older.

This highly anticipated kickball tournament promises intense competition and a fantastic sporting atmosphere. In addition to the thrill of the games, there are exciting incentives up for grabs! The top three teams will be awarded prestigious prizes recognizing their remarkable performance throughout the tournament. So, don’t miss your chance to showcase your skills and compete against some of the best teams on the island.

Sign up online before July 24 (1 p.m.) to secure your spot for $90. For more information, head to okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/adultsports or email adultsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

—Jasmine Bocanegra

Lights! Camera! Library?

Are you the next famous stop-motion filmmaker ready to challenge the likes of Tim Burton or Art Clokey? If so, then do we have a competition for you. From July 1 to July 20, budding creators may submit a 30-second short stop-motion film to the MCCS Okinawa Education and Libraries Facebook page via Messenger. Winners of the competition will be decided by popular vote via likes on Facebook with prizes being awarded to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place winners.

Competitors of all ages are welcome to submit work that fits into the theme “Find Your Voice” to go along with this year’s Summer Reading Program, though they should expect some stiff competition from those who participated in the libraries’ Stop-Motion Bootcamp this past June. For tools and inspiration for your project, stop by the Foster Library Innovation Lab, which has amazing and intriguing STEAM programs like Makey Makey and Ozobots to go along with what you need for stop-motion filming.

Retrain Your Brain

Unlock Your Potential

Embark on a transformative journey to become the best version of yourself in just four weeks! Experience the empowering Re-Train Your Brain program—a comprehensive class led by Prevention and Education Specialists from the MCCS Behavioral Health Family Advocacy Program. Course participants will experience a focused exploration of key skills such as interpersonal effectiveness, assertive communication, stress management and empathic listening—laying a strong foundation for personal growth.

Class locations alternate between Camps Hansen and Foster each month, providing convenient options for attendees. On Camp Hansen, sessions are held at Bldg. 2631 on Tuesdays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. For those closer to Camp Foster, classes take place at

Bldg. 439 on Wednesdays from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. As a testament to your achievement, a certificate of completion will be awarded to participants who attend all four sessions. This course is delivered in collaboration with Century Anger Management (CAM), ensuring a comprehensive and credible learning experience.

These FREE classes are available to all SOFA ID card holders across the island who are passionate about self-improvement. Register to attend a class by emailing, fapprevention@usmc.mil with your full name, telephone number and the camp where you would like to attend or call 645-2915. For more information, head to okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/fap

—Jasmine Bocanegra

If making movies isn’t your thing, but watching them is, be sure and check out the MCCS Okinawa Education and Libraries Facebook so you can see all the amazing work that our community is creating. Get involved in the process by voting for your favorites but remember, one person equals one vote! If you have questions about the Stop-Motion Facebook Film Festival or any of their other STEAM programs, email the Camp Foster library team at fosterlibrary@okinawa. usmc-mccs.org or give them a call at 645-7178.

At long last, you’re finally developing the much-needed habit of making regular visits to the gym to get fit. And, out of the blue it strikes—you’ve pulled a muscle in your back! Other than making just about everything that you do exponentially more difficult, experiencing an injury can lead to many long-range effects such as missed school or work. An injury can impact many aspects of the quality of your life, your finances and can even lead to the development of chronic illnesses.

So, how can we avoid this in the first place? If you’re just starting to exercise, getting a medical check-up (or comprehensive health assessment) is a good idea to see where you stand. Once you’re cleared, start with stretching—stretching exercises can improve the ability of muscles to contract and perform, which reduces the risk for injury.

After your exercise, take the time (at least twice as long as warm-ups) to cool down correctly. Especially when exercising outdoors, stay hydrated; drinking plenty of water can help prevent dehydration, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Most importantly, know your limits and pace yourself. Rest when you’re tired, and don’t exercise when you are fatigued or in pain. Remember—good mobility, flexibility, muscle strength, endurance, motor control training, and rest and recovery are the keys to progress.

Learn more about how you can prevent injuries by contacting MCCS Health Promotion. For more information, call 645-3910 or visit MCCS Health Promotion at facebook.com/mccsokinawa.semperfit or okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/healthpromotion 

Creative Connections

Express your creativity in the Camp Kinser Community Magazine. This community magazine is meant as a platform for folks to share their stories, ideas and work while encouraging local writers, photographers and artists to contribute in order to foster creativity. Community members of all ages can submit for any of six sections including Poems & Prose, Cooking, Okinawa Favorites, Japan Favorites, Art and Books & Movies. Works for Poems & Prose can be original or found (found should include title and cite the author) and should be limited to 250 words or less; Cooking should include a picture of the food along with its recipe; Okinawa Favorites will act like a travel guide and should include a picture, address and why it’s beloved; Japan Favorites should also include a picture, location and why you enjoy the subject description; and, Art submissions should include a picture of the work with a description; Books and Movies is for folks to share their favorite book or movie and why it ’s so important to them. All work should be submitted no later than July 21 to the Camp Kinser librarians via email at kinserlibrary@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org. Once all work has been submitted, printed copies of the Camp Kinser Community Magazine will be available for pick-up at the Kinser Library.

Go ahead and share those hidden literary, photography or culinary skills with your community today, and help your friendly librarians showcase what a talented bunch of folks live in our community. You never know, your words might inspire someone else to take a new adventure in creativity. For more information, call the Kinser Library at 637-1039. See locations, hours of operation and upcoming events at all libraries at okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/libraries 

The Camp Kinser Community Magazine

Instant Gratification in a Frosty Cup

Classic Milkshakes at Bulldogs

You’ve worked hard all morning. You’ve been to the gym three of the last five days alternating between the Stairmaster, the rowing machine and the treadmill. It’s time to reward yourself, like immediately! Well, how does a tall, refreshing and ice-cold milkshake sound? Listen to your inner child (or actual kid if you have one of those) and dive head-first into the scintillating waters of guilty pleasures—you know you want to!

Want something to accompany your shake? For many, there aren’t very many things that go better with a milkshake than a great burger! A delicious mid-day burger along with your shake will complete your afternoon of delight with good vibes lasting well into the evening.

So, where can you get a delicious shake and a great burger? Head to Bulldogs, of course! Take a bite out of an Original Bulldog, Double Stack, Mushroom and Swiss, Better Cheddar, Bacon Bulldog, Bacon Jalapeno or a Bacon and Blue Cheese. Those wishing an alternative to beef can opt for the vegetarian option—made with 100% plant-based Beyond Burger patties. Wash your choice burger down with Bulldogs new Classic Milkshakes available in Vanilla, Chocolate, Strawberry and Coffee flavors for only $4. Go ahead, you deserve it!

For a full menu, hours of operation, phone numbers and a listing of Bulldogs locations, visit okinawa. usmc-mccs.org/bulldogs. 

Kaboom at Bonsai!

An Experience that (Pop) Rocks!

As summer graces us with longer days, we find ourselves with ample daylight to revel in life’s simpler pleasures. Whether it’s immersing yourself in captivating books, embracing the rugged beauty of Okinawa’s coastlines or savoring countless cups of delicious coffee, Bonsai Coffee beckons you to indulge in these delightful experiences alongside their latest limited time offer—the KABOOM drink.

Throughout the month of July, coffee enthusiasts are in for a treat; picture a mesmerizing concoction that harmonizes the delicate flavors of butterfly pea cream with the bold richness of espresso. This exquisite blend is crowned with a generous dollop of heavenly Chantilly cream and adorned with an enticing drizzle of red and white chocolate sauce. The result is a sensory symphony that tantalizes both the taste buds and the eyes. But wait, there’s an unexpected twist to awaken your inner child—the subtle crackling sensation of pop rocks, infusing every sip with an element of surprise and whimsy.

This explosion of flavor is available in three delightful variations—hot, iced or blended— and can be enjoyed in sizes ranging from small to large. As a bonus, if your little firecracker loves a butterfly effect, treat them to the espresso-free version, crowned with whipped cream and garnished with pop rocks.

Are you interested in working your way towards free drinks? If so, don’t forget to ask for a stamp card! Bonsai Coffee is located at the Community Center on Camp Foster and The Palms on Camp Hansen with a new location on Torii Station slated to open soon. For operating hours, menus and more, visit okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/bonsai. 

Jasmine Bocanegra

Hours of Operation

Daily from 11 a.m.– 9 p.m.

Location 904-0115 Chatan-Cho 3-1-10

Mihama

Contact Information

ja-jp.facebook.com/ esparzastacosandcoffee +81 98-926-1888

Payment Yen and Card Accepted

Tacos and Coffee

Owner and operator of Esparza’s Tacos and Coffee, Mr. Yo Murakami, wants his restaurant to embody the word champuru—the Okinawa word for something mixed. The curated ambiance of the place is geared at being a community center where people can gather, hang and, of course, have tacos and coffee. This is reflected in the art which displays a different community artist each month, their second Friday of the month Nerd Nights where professors from the OIST give science talks and in their community wide Open Mic Nights the last Saturday of each month.

The ethos of champuru is also reflected in their menu options which are filled with foods that are an Okinawan-Mexican fusion. Indeed, the food I tried was a mix of all kinds of locally sourced produce, textures and taste, beginning with the Beef Steak Tacos— a great balance of beef and their vegan cheese (which is the best vegan cheese I’ve had). The marinade while flavorful didn’t overpower the taste of the beef and the sharp pickled onion to cut through its richness for a perfect hit of acid. Best of all, the generous amount of steak stuffed into the flour tortilla was enough to make any meat eater happy.

Next was the Chicken Fajita Taco which is a progression of flavors within each bite. It starts with sharpness from roasted peppers, and then slightly tangy sour cream before a final hit of the smokey chipotle chicken that all lingers oh so pleasantly on the tongue.

My last taco was the Very Vegan Taco, and it was far and away the best veggie taco I’ve ever eaten. So many contrasting flavors and textures burst through making eating it a dining adventure. From the sweet pineapple sauce to the sharp shishito pepper and the roasted cherry tomato, back to the bitter flame kissed crunchy

onion peel and the umami of the black beans—this was a combination I’d never before had. The eggplant and zucchini were perfectly delicious and the fact that it was all contained within a preservative-free organic house-made tortilla made this a taco to talk about.

The other vegan dish I had was the Nacho Ordinary Nacho. The first thing I noticed was the great crunch from the house-made corn chips, followed by the chorizo flavor from the crumbled tofu that’s got a better mouthfeel than even the finest ground beef. Fresh guac that’s the perfect blend of smooth and chunky with a hint of lime tops incredible vegan nacho cheese which coats the chips without making them soggy. All of this plus a mix of black beans, finely diced crunchy cucumber, chewy fried potatoes, pops of tomato, and slivers of red cabbage on a plate create a medley of delight for the palate.

A review of Tacos and Coffee would be remiss if it didn’t include the coffee, and so I tried the Café Latte. I have to say I am picky about coffee and am skeptical of coffee out in town, which can be a little watery for my liking, but this latte did not disappoint—it thrilled. Served in a Tacos and Coffee mug sporting a beautiful foam heart in the center, it was strong, full-bodied and exactly the right kind of bitter without being acidic. Esparza’s coffee is sourced from Bloom Coffee up in Yomitan where it’s roasted just for them, and the attention to proper roasting comes through charmingly both aromatically and in taste.

I had thought it would be odd to have tacos and coffee together, but it ended up being a fun culinary quest. This small but charming little restaurant does exactly what Murakami-san hopes for: “Just serve good tacos and good coffee and wish people could have fun.”

Text by: Dani Livesey | Photography by: Mia Cox

Back to School Extravaganza

FREE Supplies and Family Fun

Do your kids have a bad case of the “I don’t wanna” whines for the upcoming school year? Are you frustrated trying to find some fun family time in the summer heat? Why not solve both problems at once and join the MCCS Personal and Professional Development Resources Team for their first ever Back to School Extravaganza!

Especially designed for students and their families between the grades of kindergarten and 8th grade, this back-to-school bash boasts a mixture of fun and information with vendors from MCCS and off base offering entertainment, resource booths and fun games. Additionally, our friendly neighborhood firefighters will display and demonstrate their equipment and vehicles, host interactive activities and offer FREE safety checks on bikes, skateboards, helmets and car seats.

Head to the Library…

…for Learning, Relaxation (AND the A/C)

If all that fun entertainment isn’t enough to have your kids revving their engines, the Personal and Professional Development Team will also be stuffing students’ backpacks with FREE school supplies (while supplies last) so your kiddo can strut to school in style while helping you to avoid that ever-stressful August back-toschool shopping panic.

Mark your calendars for Saturday, July 20 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. for an extravaganza that is absolutely not-to-be-missed. This event will be held at the Camp Foster Community Center Auditorium and no registration is required, just bring your family and those backpacks for stuffing. For more information, please call 645-2104.

There’s plenty to do for the whole family at your local library (in addition to escaping the summer heat, of course). Get lost in a good read or plug into an audiobook. MCCS Libraries are home to hundreds of books, periodicals, graphic novels and multimedia. Rent DVDs and video games for Xbox, PlayStation and Switch, or hop on a computer and explore various eResources, including language learners from Mango, encyclopedias, FREE online classes, Kanopy, Craftsy, Libby, do-it-yourself videos and much more. All locations offer free Wi-Fi, computers, iPads for check-out (at select locations) and professional military reading titles as well.

Each library has special programs and events offered throughout the year including book clubs, survival language courses, crafts, presentations and more. The libraries also offer programming geared toward younger patrons including Kangaroo, Play to Learn and Once Upon a Storytime. Childrens’ story times are separated by stages rather than ages.

Many libraries on Marine Corps camps are also home to Innovation Labs, a collaborative space where creativity meets technology. After spending a relaxing weekend there, you’ll probably want to spend a lot more time at your local library throughout the year! Check out okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/libraries for more details on all their offerings.

Enjoy Summer Safely

Summer Learn to Swim Sessions 3 & 4

Swimming is the all-time best summer pastime. Pool parties, water slides, snorkeling and water sports beckon to overheated folk looking for relief from the summer heat. It’s a family friendly activity that everyone can enjoy, and something that’s not just great fun, but also great for your health. At the same time, however, more children ages 1–4 die from drowning than any other cause of death, and for children ages 5–14, drowning is the second-leading cause of unintentional injury or death after motor vehicle crashes.

So how do you make sure your summer fun plans are also safe for your youngest family members? Start by dipping your toes into the pool at an MCCS Aquatic Center and enrolling them into one of their summer swim lessons. The Learn to Swim (LTS) Program offers classes for adults and children (starting at six months of age); regular individual lessons are $75 (preschool to adults 16 and older), and parent and child lessons are $50. Each LTS session includes eight consecutive weekday classes (weather permitting), and stroke improvement/refinement classes are also available for advanced swimmers.

LTS lessons are available at MCCS Aquatic Centers on Plaza Housing and Camps Kinser, McTureous and Foster. You can sign up your kids for lessons online at okinawa. usmc-mccs.org/learntoswim July 10–13 for the July 18–28 session, or July 24–27 for the August 1–11 session. For more information on LTS, visit okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/learntoswim, or send an email to mccsaquatics@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org 

Kids Bowl FREE

“Strike-tastic”

Summer Fun

Get ready for a “strike-tastic” summer of bowling fun. From April 3 to October 9, MCCS Bowling Centers on Camps Kinser, Foster and Courtney are participating in the Kids Bowl FREE Program!

No matter which camp you’re at, there’s a bowling center nearby with fantastic hours to accommodate your schedule. The Camp Foster and Camp Courtney Bowling Centers welcome bowlers from Sunday to Saturday, between 10 a.m. and 7 p.m., ensuring seven days of non-stop fun. While Camp Kinser Bowling Center is closed Monday through Wednesday, they make up for it with extended hours Thursday through Sunday, opening from 4 to 9 p.m. on Thursdays and from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on the remaining days of the week.

Now, here’s the exciting part—all children ages 15 and under can enjoy two FREE

games per person during Kids Bowl FREE program hours. It’s an unbeatable opportunity for young bowlers to unleash their skills and have a blast with family and friends. But remember, shoe rental fees are not included, so plan accordingly.

To ensure you won’t miss out on the excitement of knocking down those pins, simply visit kidsbowlfree.com to register for these fantastic free games and to find more information about the program.

Also check out okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/ bowling to see hours of operation, locations and other events. If you have any questions about the Kids Bowl FREE Program, contact MCCS Bowling Centers on Camps Foster, Courtney or Kinser at 645-7205, 622-7364, and 637-1643, respectively.

—Jasmine Bocanegra

Typhoon Motors Summer Sales

Keeping you Safe…and Rocking to the Beat!

With the chance of showers always looming on Okinawa—even when none are forecasted—slick roads are an ever-present source of danger. To ensure your ride is ready to take on this challenge, make sure the tread on your tires is deep enough to grip the road. An easy way to check for appropriate depth is with the penny test (if you can’t find one, head to the nearest post office). Stick a penny into the tread groove so that Abraham Lincoln’s head is upside-down. If you can see all of Abe’s head, it’s time to head to Typhoon Motors for their Summer Tire Sale—with 10% OFF new tires, mounting and balancing— throughout the month of July at all Typhoon Motors locations. Another way to feel at ease with your car is to check its “ins and outs” with your own eyes. Without a lift, that can be hard to do;

fortunately, Typhoon Motors is having an Independence Day Special, with $1 lift and stall rentals July 3–6 on Camp Foster , July 3, 5 and 6 on Camp Kinser and July 5–6 on Camps Courtney and Hansen.

Now that your ride is road ready, you’ll want to check out one more sale. Happening only on Camp Foster July 1–8, the Audio Super Summer Sale will offer 15% off all car audio to tune up your vehicle’s existing system. You’ll love the improved bass range and newfound sound quality as you cruise around with your head bobbing to the beat.

For more information, including services, hours and contact information for all Typhoon Motors locations, head to okinawa.usmcmccs.org/typhoonmotors. 

MCCS Driver Education Program

Earn Your Independence

Are you tired of having good ol’ mom or pop drive you to the mall? Wouldn’t it be great to meetup with friends IRL whenever you so pleased? All this and much, much more is possible after earning your SOFA driver’s license with the MCCS Driver Education Program.

The Driver Education Program is tailored to aid all U.S. SOFA members and their families stationed on Okinawa with their POV licensing needs. This program features American Driver and Traffic Safety Education Association (ADTSEA)/AAA certified courses, which includes 39 hours of classroom instruction and six hours of behind-the-wheel instruction for those in need. Students who complete the Driver Education Program will receive their SOFA driver’s license in Japan.

First-time driver classes—open to adult/teen students ages 16 or older— take place at Marine & Family Programs (Bldg. 445) and run Monday–Friday from 6 to 9 p.m. Refresher courses are held at the Driver Education Office (Bldg. 5677), and active duty courses are held at the Foster Library (Bldg. 5679).

In-person classes are held on Camp Foster, while behind-the-wheel instruction takes place at both Camp Foster and Kadena Air Base. Additionally, please note behind-thewheel instruction is contingent on student and instructor availability. To find necessary registration forms and the full course schedule, head to okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/drivereducation For questions about the Driver Education Program, send an email to driver.education@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org or call 645-5823. 

MCCS Markets

It May be Junk to You…

A wise person was once said “waste not, want not…” However, try as we might, we always somehow seem to end up with stuff that we really don’t need (and some items we can’t even remember buying such as that exercise bike now being used as a clothes rack). The best answer isn’t busting your gut hauling it to the curb as garbage; turn your unwanted items into cash at an MCCS Flea Market.

Whether you’re interested in turning some of your belongings into cash, or you’re a glutton for punishment shopping for more new-to-you items, here’s what to know. MCCS Flea Markets on Camp Foster are held from noon to 3 p.m., and Camp Courtney hosts a flea market from 7 to 10 a.m. For a full schedule of upcoming dates and maps to locations, visit okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/ fleamarket. Booths for sellers are available to SOFA ID card holders island-wide and are granted on a first-come, first-served basis. To reserve a booth, arrive on-site an hour early and pay the $15 cash fee. SOFA and non-SOFA shoppers are welcome, so sellers should plan to make change in both dollars and yen.

Aside from finding your next treasure or going home to a cleaner closet, flea markets help reduce trash, which is great—especially since an estimated ¥10 billion is spent on waste disposal on Okinawa each year. Flea markets do have certain rules and requirements, so be sure to review these policies at okinawa.usmc-mccs.org/fleamarket. For more information, call MCCS Special Events at 645-5829.

Warehouse Sale!

Computers, Furniture and More

Did you know that MCCS conducts weekly sales of excess Non-appropriated Fund (NAF) property every Wednesday? Items such as computers, monitors, furniture, sporting equipment, recreational equipment and more are usually available.

These sales take place on Camp Foster in Warehouse 5601 from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. During the hours of 8–11 a.m., the sale is open to SOFA ID card holders only, while both card holders and non-SOFA ID card holders may make purchases from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

In addition to warehouse sales, MCCS also conducts sealed bid sales for larger items on a semi-monthly basis. Items offered include vehicles such as sedans, vans and trucks, larger gym equipment and even hard-to-get specialty items such as forklifts. Sales are announced on facebook.com/mccsokinawa at the beginning of the month, and sealed bids are accepted Monday–Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at the MCCS Supply Branch in Bldg. 5601 on Camp Foster until bidding is closed.

For more information about warehouse or sealed bid sales, contact MCCS Supply via email at warehousesales@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org or at 645-3954. 

The Ryukyu Islands are well known for the longevity of its residents, the beauty of its arts, stunning landscapes and the island peoples’ collective love of matsuri —or festivals.

Summertime on Okinawa—oppressive heat, humid nights of tossing and turning (or shivering from the AC) and clouds of irritating insects that seem to follow you everywhere. While many living on the island are thinking about kicking back in that aforementioned air-conditioned room streaming Disney+, many more will joyfully brave the heat and humidity to enjoy one of the many matsuri, or festivals held throughout the summer months.

On Okinawa, matsuri are summer traditions among both local residents and island veterans alike. Every year (barring typhoons, of course), hundreds of thousands of people flock to festival venues throughout the prefecture to party, play festival games, eat festival foods, dance to festival music and watch hanabi taikai, or fireworks displays.

There is absolutely no question, Uchinânchu love their festivals. So much so that the people of Okinawa are known throughout Japan as matsurizoku—which translates to “festival people.” In the U.S., July 4 is the traditional date for the biggest summer festival or fair. But on Okinawa, there are several opportunities to enjoy festivities on island during the summer, post-summer and early autumn months.

Matsuri can be found in virtually all of the larger cities, many of the smaller municipalities, in small villages and communities and even some companies such as Okinawa Denryoku (Okinawa Electric Power Company) hold their own matsuri for employees and their families. From the southern islands of Yaeyama to Motobu in the northern forests of Yanbaru, each area hosts their own special festival, and while each Okinawan matsuri has several bread-and-butter features that one can expect to see at all venues, each has a flavor—and a life—of its own.

FOOD

Although cuisine from throughout the world can be found in multitudes of stalls, traditional Okinawan matsuri fare is usually fairly simple. Some of the more common fodder includes takoyaki (golf ball-sized/shaped treats with a delicious boiled octopus filling), taiyaki (a sort of doughnut that is shaped like a fish and is filled with anko or sweet bean paste), yakitori (charbroiled teriyaki chicken on a stick), ika-batā yaki (calamari sautéed in butter), fried rice and yakisoba (stir-fried noodles with pork and vegetables). More familiar carnival fare—such as corndogs, cotton candy, corn-on-the-cob and spareribs—is also usually available.

MUSIC

Music plays an immense part in the everyday lives of many on the island. And most islander’s unbounded love for music becomes immediately apparent during matsuri season. A typical Okinawa festival can feature a broad spectrum of music ranging from rock, hip hop, classical, soul, ska, punk, country and rap to classical Ryukyu court music and Okinawan folk melodies. Oftentimes live performances by local musicians are non-stop from early afternoon to late in the evening.

While electric guitars, drums and keyboards abound at Okinawan matsuri, the most prevalent instrument is probably the sanshin. The Okinawan sanshin is a plucked instrument that consists of a long, polished, black-lacquered neck made of ebony. The neck pierces the top and bottom of a round body made of Chinese black pine, which is covered on both sides with snakeskin (usually python). The three strings of the sanshin were formerly made of silk, although tetron is now more commonplace. They are traditionally plucked with a plectrum made of water buffalo horn (nowadays acrylic is more popular) worn on the index finger of the right hand. The sanshin is played acapella or can be accompanied by

DANCE

A variety of traditional Okinawan dance forms can be enjoyed at any typical matsuri. However, eisa—by far—is the type most associated with Okinawan festivals. Eisa is a dynamic, spirited dance that is a vital part of a holiday for honoring ancestors called Obon. Today the dance is also considered a symbol of the Ryukyu Islands and is performed at almost all matsuri.

The principal musical instruments used in eisa include the sanshin, large barrel drums called ōdaiko, medium-sized laced drums called shimedaiko, and small hand drums called paranku. Other accessories may include small cymbals, fans, castanets, hand towels and handkerchiefs. During the old days, men played the sanshin and beat vigorously on drums while jumping and spinning, as the young women danced to the rhythms, incorporating fans, towels, kerchiefs and other accessories into routines. Today, all genders of all ages wield taiko and share dancing duties. Eisa “formations” vary from place to place, ranging from circular, square and star-shaped, to columns of dancers and drummers broken into different categories determined by their part of the dance. Modern eisa is considered an Okinawan art form, and different municipalities often compete against each other at an island-wide tournament.

10,000 Eisa Dancers

Summer Festival

Early August

Kokusai Street, Naha City

Held on probably the most wellknown 1.6-kilometer stretch of road on the island, this parade is the culmination of months of practice for many eisa dancers of all ages. This festival is known to attract well over 100,000 revelers from throughout Japan each year to watch the twirling dancers and drummers.

FIREWORKS

Unlike traditional Fourth of July skyrockets, festivals on Okinawa use uniquely Japanese spherical fireworks to punctuate their evenings. Most Japanese fireworks, or hanabi, are made of paper and are filled with progressive layers of flash powder or wariyaku and hoshi or “stars.” The stars are made of chemical powders that burn with different colors and sometimes sparkle when ignited. As hanabi are spherical, they burst into a brilliance of showering sparkles in the shape of a globe.

Traditionally, hanabi come in three categories: the wari-mono, kowari-mono, and the poka-mono. Wari-mono are tightly packed with smaller stars and usually burst into the shape of a perfect sphere. Kowari-mono contain stars that explode into multiple spheres after the initial burst, and poka-mono usually bloom on a smaller scale. Poka-mono often contain rocket-type stars that shoot in every direction. Today seeing wari-mono burst into the shape of pink hearts, lotus flowers, or even smiley faces are becoming more common with modern pyrotechnic technology. Many of the larger fireworks displays on Okinawa make use of several thousand (some use 10,000) individual hanabi orchestrated over periods of up to 45 minutes to provide the greatest entertainment.

Whether a matsuri is held by a school or daycare center for the enjoyment of parents and children, or involves 10,000 musicians and dancers performing eisa dances for 100,000+ spectators, one thing cannot be said enough: the matsurizoku of Okinawa truly love their matsuri. 

Upcoming Festivals on Okinawa

Since matsuri season on Okinawa also happens to be typhoon season, festivals dates are subject to change (and sometimes cancellation).

Okinawa Zento Eisa Matsuri

September 9–10

Koza Sports Park, Okinawa City

The Zento, or “All-Island,” Eisa Matsuri features the best-of-thebest dancers from throughout the prefecture competing for the title of “best eisa group.” Although not a “formal” competition awarding trophies as it used to in the past, dancers still bring their best and competition is fierce.

Ginowan Hagoromo Matsuri

September 30–October 1

Ginowan City Convention Center

This festival’s main attraction is the all-island kachāshī dance tournament. Kachāshī is an ancient form of simple Okinawan dance that expresses joy and jubilation. Kachāshī, which is traditionally danced at the end of weddings and other happy events, is often spontaneous and without set choreography. The tournament features dancers of all ages and nationalities—from groups of toddlers to troupes featuring spry, 90+ seniors.

Urasoe Tedako Matsuri

Mid-October

Urasoe Sports Park

The Urasoe Tedako Matsuri, a fair held annually at the Urasoe City Sports Park, attracts approximately 140,000 each year. The name of the festival, Tedako (which means “sun child”) was the honorific title of King Eiso—ruler of the ancient Kingdom of Urasoe. The Tedako festival features a parade, a traditional performing arts contest, a teenage eisa dance, a dragon boat race tournament at Makiminato Port and, of course, fireworks.

Bulgogi

(BBQ Grilled Beef)

Ingredients

2 lbs. bone-in beef short ribs, sliced

1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup scallions, chopped

2 Tbsp. garlic, minced

3 Tbsp. ginger root, minced

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 Tbsp. peanut oil

1 Tbsp. sesame oil

1 cup burgundy wine

2 Tbsp. sesame seeds

Potato starch

Method of Preparation

1. Pl ace ribs in a plastic storage container and set aside.

2. In a l arge bowl, combine all ingredients except for sesame seeds, scallions and starch, and mix well.

3. Pour sauce over beef slices and—using your hands—rub the seasoning into the meat.

4. Cover and chill several hours or overnight.

5. Remove meat from marinade. Set marinade aside.

6. Grill or broil beef over medium-high heat, turning once during cooking (about 2-3 minutes for each side).

7. Sprinkle sesame seeds and scallions over cooked beef.

8. In a separate saucepan, bring leftover marinade to a boil. Add a little starch (mixed with water); whisk until consistency is smooth and slightly thickened. Ladle sauce over meat.

9. Serve with a tall refreshing beverage of choice.

Tanabata

Love is grand or so they say; however, imagine only being able to see your loved one only once a year. In Japanese folklore, there is a story about this acutely poignant kind of situation. Every year, many in Japan celebrate a festival called Tanabata (or star festival) on July 7. On this day, two stars that are usually apart (Vega and Altair), approach each other in the night sky. It is said that these two stars are star-crossed lovers of ancient Japanese folklore.

Once upon a time, there was a princess known as Orihime (Vega) who was responsible for weaving the clothing of the gods. She was very skilled, and her textiles were extremely popular among the divine. One day, one of the gods introduced Orihime to Kengyu (Altair) who watched over the celestial herds. Orihime and Kengyu fell in love, and like many other couples in the same situation throughout the universe, enjoyed spending all of their waking hours

together. However, this proved to be their downfall, because in the meantime they were seriously neglecting their duties.

The gods were, of course, not amused and immediately separated them to the eastern and western sides of the Amanogawa or “River of the Heavens” (known by modern-day astronomers as the Milky Way). While Orihime now had plenty of time to weave, she still couldn’t perform her duties because she couldn’t see past the rivers of tears streaming down her cheeks. Over time, the gods finally relented and allowed the couple to meet once a year if they worked hard enough.

Many Japanese celebrate Tanabata by placing small bamboo trees decorated with ornaments and narrow strips of colored paper outside of their homes. Both children and adults write wishes on these colored strips with hopes that these wishes come true through diligence and hard work. 

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