2023 July/August Mazama Bulletin

We are the Mountain People.

Where some see rock, we see lines. Where some see peaks, we see possibility. Where some see rain lashed ridgelines or impenetrable fog, we see an opportunity to challenge our skills.

MAZAMA BULLETIN

Volume 105

Number 4

July/August 2023

CONTENTS

FEATURES

Around, and Around, and Around, p. 10

Press that Button: Reflections on a Rescue, p. 17

A Splendid Plan B: The Alpine Lakes High Route, p. 20

(Re)introducing the Mazama Library, p. 23

COLUMNS

Mazama Membership, p. 5

Executive Director’s Message, p. 6

Interim Executive Director’s Message, p. 7

President’s Message, p. 8

May Membership Drive Recap, p. 8

Glaciated Peak Society

Logo Design Contest Winner, p. 9

Successful Climbers, p. 13

Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 14

What’s Happening Around the Mazamas?, p. 15

Mazama Classics, p. 16

Book Reviews, p. 24, 25

Saying Goodbye, p. 26

Board of Directors Minutes, p. 28

Members of the Glaciated Peak Society, p. 31

Colophon, p. 39

IN THIS ISSUE

The training, discipline, and teamwork I’ve found among the mountains—and as a member of the Mazamas myself—are a powerful reminder that we are all interconnected, and that nature is the ultimate teacher..." p. 6

Sammy was trying to climb down a steep rock face when he fell. He hit his chin on a ledge and tumbled several times before coming to a stop in the snow..."

p. 17

It was the most memorable sunset I have ever witnessed. Perched on the edge of the idyllic Tank Lakes plateau, circled by peaks in every direction, we watched the sky for more than an hour go through the most exquisite transition, slow and subtle, from orange to red to purple to mauve..." p. 20

Cover: 2023 BCEP grad Anna Kolodziejski rappels after summiting Unicorn Peak on June 11, 2023. Photo by Christine Troy.

Above: Mazama climbing team on the slope of Mt. Rainier, May 6, 2023. Photo by Sohaib Haider.

MAZAMA VALUES

RESPECT

We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

SAFETY

We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

EDUCATION

We believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

VOLUNTEERISM

We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

COMMUNITY

We believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

COMPETENCE

We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

CREDIBILITY

We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

STEWARDSHIP

We believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP

APRIL Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 10

Alastair Cox

Mark Goering

Zachary Hayes

Brett Laudeman

Dmitry Medvedev

REINSTATEMENTS: 6

DECEASED: 0

MEMBERSHIP ON APRIL 30:

2,698 (2022); 2,710 (2023)

Juliana Person

Colleen Rawson

Mark Santa Maria

Michael Shymanski

Riley Thomas

MAY Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 188

Mikhail Alkaev

Pavel Alkaev

Rita Allotey

Bashar Al-Rawi

Ashlin Aronin

Chelsea Ashcraft

Jeevitha Babu

Ben Bagnall

Marissa Barlow

Bridget Barnett

Zachary Barton

Catherine Bean

Antonio Bezerra

Laura Bien

Ben Bird

Joshua Bitter

Zack Boisselle

Alexandra Boris

John Botts

Joshua Bowley

Willa Brenowitz

Neal Bridgnell

Charles Brown

Silke Brunning

Stefan Butterbrodt

Brent Bybee

John Catena

Steven Cheswick

Michael Cheung

Jennifer Ching

Max Ciotti

Gerald Clark

Olivia Cohn

Phillip Crumpacker

Frederick Cruz

Merche Cuevas Trol

Jessie Cunningham

Kapil Dave

Luke Davis

Edward Decker

Hannah Dinell

Nick Dolja

Maxwell Douglas

Karen Downs

Rory Driscoll

Ken Ensroth

Dennis Falcione

Michael Figlewicz

Tyler Fitch

Melissa Frazier

Nathan Friese

Eleni Gerding

Erik Gerding

Maelle Gery

Vince Gonor

Moso Gosnell

Laura Graham

David Gross

Gabriel Guzman

Gary Hahn

M. George Hansen

Gina Harley

Michael Harley

Stacey Harney

Mat Harris

Larae Hartenfeld

Jessica Hastings

Chris Hedeen

Stephen Hemminger

Rocio Herrera

Brian Hoffman

Michael Honsa

Mikaila Horan

Grayson Hughbanks

Matt Hutchinson

Courtney Ianello

Raju Jha

Jared Johnsen

Austin Johnson

Kim Johnson

Barbie Kerr

Anna Kolodziejski

Pawel Lasiecki

Thuy Le

Aidan Lee

Steven Lester

Linda Lewis

Megan Lien

Margery Linza

Daniel Lotspeich

Bo An Lu

Carl Lucchese

Austin Macpherson

Archana Mandava

Jade Marcus

Addy Martinez

Erin McConville

Margaret McCue

Evan McDowell

Christina McManigal

John Meadows

Colin Miletich

James Miller

Rachel Miller

Hariank Mistry

Diana Moosman

Mina Mostafavifar

Celia Mueller

Noriyuki Murakami

Brooke Murphy

Will Nash

Veronika Newgard

Tad Nicol

Victoria Nochera

Charlie Owen

Brent Owens

Laura Hecht

Cole Parnell

Nathanael Parra

Dhaval Patel

Gordon Pearlman

Sasank Peri

Karthik Periagaram

Julian Person

Steven Peterson

Marta Petteni

Khanh Pham

Emily Platt

Donica Polce

Tisha Posey

John Powers

Yaadhav Raaj

Ariana Ramirez

Dan Rehmann

Andrew Richards

Kelly Riley

Sarah Risser

Allison Rivet

REINSTATEMENTS: 21

DECEASED: 0

MEMBERSHIP ON MAY 31: 2,722 (2022); 2,903 (2023)

Megan Robinson

Barbara Sack

Kiana Saluni

Jennifer Sampson

Michael Schulte

Mark Settle

Kira Smith

Emmet Smith

Frank Squeglia

Aaron Stahr

Sequoia Steadman

Max Steele

Johnny Stoehr

Shannon Suehr

Shiran Sukumar

Brenda Sutton

Andrew Swalko

David Swanlund

John Swetnam

Lisa Taulbee

Sampson Taylor

Emily Telford-Marx

Seymour the Adventure Cat

Shawn Thomas

Nikki Thompson

Kevin Thrakulchavee

Yukiko Toyoda

Lisa Troutman

Kenneth Umenthum

Mira Valova

Jenica Villamor

Ben Volinski

Zachary Warres

Adrianne Wesol

Daniel West

Carmella West

Phyllis Whittington

Collin Wilde

Jules Williams

Steven Williams

Mesa Willis

Tiana Won

Liz Wood

Cameron Wright

Charlotte Wylde

Christian Yost

Kepei Yu

Jordan Zanmiller

Farzane Zokaee

Mallory D Zunino

Editor's note: Due to the elimination of the glaciated peak membership requirement, we will no longer be publishing the names of qualifying peaks with new members.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

Iam deeply humbled and honored to be joining the Mazamas as your executive director, and wish to thank you, our supporters, for your warm welcome, as well as the Mazama Board of Directors, interim executive director, and staff for facilitating such a smooth and focused transition during this exciting time.

Throughout my 20 years in nonprofit leadership, accessibility and advocacy have been the guiding principles behind increasing both engagement and revenues. On the marketing end, I’m often responsible for developing the strategies that bring folks through an organization’s door for the very first time. If I do my job right, that initial experience generates a spark that then keeps a person coming back for more. As a fundraiser, I’m a fierce champion of our mission and values, always striving to keep members, volunteers, and donors inspired and empowered by our programming and impact. In any nonprofit, acquisition means nothing without retention, and I’m eager to roll up my sleeves on both sides here.

After so many years in the performing arts, joining the Mazamas has the distinct feeling of coming home. A lifelong Oregonian (and a rather chestthumping one at that), my passion for the outdoors was stoked at an early age. I was lucky enough to have elementary school teachers who valued the natural sciences, and we often learned them in the field. Our classrooms ventured to the Redwoods, where we learned to identify nettles, salmonberries, and banana slugs. We explored the Lava Beds, where, led by “Captain Jack” Kintpuash, the Modoc used their knowledge of the tricky terrain to resist their white oppressors. We watched reel-to-reel footage of Mount St. Helens’ massive eruption while our teachers reminded us that we’d been born among its ashes, and as we learned about lahars, pumice, and obsidian in the shadows of Crater Lake, our young imaginations contemplated what must have been the terrible, relative magnitude of Mt. Mazama’s eruption nearly 8,000 years prior.

These sorts of lessons were also received at home. As a family of six, we camped, hiked, and fished everywhere from Harris Beach to Yellowstone, often spending seemingly endless hours waiting for my dad—an avid nature photographer—to catch up with the rest of the family after stopping to carefully capture the perfect waterfall, tiger lily, or sunset on film. Needless to say, most summer weekends were spent chasing a view, hiking switchback after switchback, and exploring wildernesses from Castle Crags all the way up to the North Cascades. The training, discipline, and teamwork I’ve found among the mountains—and as a member of the Mazamas myself— are a powerful reminder that we are all interconnected, and that nature is the ultimate teacher.

As you are all aware, the extensive history of the Mazamas has endowed the organization with considerable influence in the present-day field of responsible recreation. I applaud the membership for taking the important step of revising the bylaws to maintain our standing as leaders while positioning the organization for critical growth. Big change often comes with the discomfort of uncertainty, but so, too, does it come with opportunities for learning; as your executive director, I am deeply committed to staying curious and working together to meet the challenges of the future.

Perhaps what excites me most is how our mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains provides so much room for creativity. In making a difference for generations to come, we have many strengths to leverage: our legacy as advocates and stewards; our distinguished role as expert outdoor educators; and, of

course, our members, who, with their vast and varied skills, knowledge, and passions, form a mighty corps of ambassadors for the wildlands and spaces we celebrate.

For nearly 130 years, the Mazamas have flourished by staying true to the values of stewardship, collaboration, and sustainability, but we know that America's outdoor spaces have been shaped by systemic racism, economic inequality, and the erasure of Indigenous history. The Route Ahead depends on forging spaces of belonging in which all of us feel meaningfully represented. Now more than ever our parks, peaks, and public lands are calling on us to dismantle barriers, create positive experiences for others, and bridge cultural, economic, and political divides. The work is exciting, but let’s be clear—it will be work. Lucky for us, the work of a Mazama comes with plenty of play.

Drop me a line anytime—and let’s get out there together!

INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director

When I began my service as your interim executive director, I couldn’t have predicted that I would get to work alongside all of you for more than 18 months. Often interim assignments don’t last that long, but the truth is we haven’t been simply managing the gap between permanent executive directors. We’ve been engaged in a change management process to help the Mazamas position itself for growth, fiscal sustainability, and a vibrant future as our region’s premier climbing, hiking, and conservation-focused nonprofit.

And in the past year and a half, we’ve made a lot of progress. The purpose of the external assessment of the Mazamas that we carried out in November of 2021 was to identify broad organizational strengths and challenges and provide recommendations to help position the Mazamas for an effective and sustainable leadership model going forward. We utilized the findings from the assessment to direct our efforts and help prepare the organization for an executive search and leadership transition.

Since December 2021, we’ve made considerable headway—particularly with respect to rebuilding our team and resetting the Mazamas in readiness for a new executive director; strengthening our financial position, remodeling our budgeting template, and incorporating a full costing of programs and activities; passing new updated bylaws to address membership standards and incorporate modern governance policies in line with the State of Oregon; redefining the roles of the board, staff, and committees; and implementing a new well-defined and proactive approach to communications to help support and maintain a positive and cohesive Mazama community with an engaged membership.

As your new executive director begins her tenure supported by a high-functioning and engaged staff and Board of Directors, the Mazamas is well positioned to: define strategic direction; begin exploring new programs and activities that can generate more revenue; build an effective development committee and a fundraising plan with agreed upon priorities that have the full engagement of the board; restructure the membership and purpose

of the Nominating Committee taking a strategic and multi-year approach to building the composition of the board; and continue to address issues of equity and inclusion at the Mazamas.

Rebekah Phillips comes to the Mazamas after standing out among the candidates in a very comprehensive and competitive hiring process. The Search Committee was comprised of board members, past board members, and Mazama members at large. They began by creating an ideal candidate profile that expressed the characteristics, skills, and experience we felt would best help the Mazamas to meet this moment in our organization’s lifecycle. A very broad net was cast to attract candidates, utilizing both our internal network and looking extensively in the wider nonprofit community in Oregon and the northwest. The interview process was comprised of three phases, the first two with the Search Committee, and a final in-person interview with the full board and then the staff, conducted over two hours at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Our two finalists were asked to make a 25-minute oral presentation to the board about their fit for the role of Mazama Executive Director, their understanding of the nonprofit sector in Oregon, and how they would begin their tenure with the Mazamas based on their present understanding of our needs.

I’m delighted to see Rebekah Phillips become your next executive director. I believe she has the passion and energy to work alongside all of you to create a vibrant future that sustains and advances the Mazama mission of climbing, hiking, and preserving our precious mountains and scenic outdoor spaces. Rebekah is

well grounded in nonprofit processes, i.e., fundraising, fiscal management, marketing and communications, program delivery, human resources, and compliance. Rebekah has worked extensively with volunteers throughout her career and has a keen understanding of the important role volunteers play in an organization like ours, where a great deal of our program delivery is led by the committed efforts of volunteer committees. She is excited to get started, and I think you are going to love working with her.

So, what are my next steps? I won’t disappear from the scene quite yet. I’ll be around, in a more limited capacity, to support Rebekah’s onboarding over the next month. I am also likely to help bring a few projects we have underway to completion. Namely, working with the board and the Lodge Committee to finalize our new operational model, assisting with the capital campaign for the lodge and our exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society this winter, and possibly some short-term grant writing work and completion of our financial restructuring efforts. Formally here in the bulletin, I want to say thank you. Thank you for the chance to work with you, for trusting me to lead the organization through some substantial changes, and for your willingness to think together about how to define a path to a vibrant future with new members and renewed energy. As one of those new members, I’m enthusiastic about the route ahead. See you on the trail!

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

by Greg Scott, Mazama President

At the end of 2022, the board identified seven priorities for 2023. The first of these priorities was to hire a new-full time executive director by May. I am happy to report an offer was accepted by our new executive director on May 30 and by the time you read this, Rebekah Phillips will have started in that role.

Second, we set out to address our budgeting process. Our treasurer, Liz Crowe, worked with Kaleen Deatherage to revise our budget template. We also approved a budget for 2023 that is budget neutral. We still have work to do in our budgeting process this year, including clearer communication with committees, but we now have tools to better establish our budget.

Third, we set goals around our lodge including creating a sustainable operations plan, assessing the profitability of the lodge, and launching a capital campaign. We tested one of those models this winter, with a volunteer operations plan. While successful, members of the board, led by Chris Jaworski and Charles Barker, continue to work with the Lodge Committee to identify a long-term operational plan. The capital campaign will launch this summer, and we are hopeful we can raise the money we need to meet the memberships’ expectations around the future use of the lodge.

Fourth, we committed to exploring how to develop revenue with the anticipated loss of revenue from our climbing program, and the lodge being closed. Many of our programs saw an increase in price. We are working on developing a pricing policy that will help us more consistently assess the value of our programming and make sure it is consistent and keeping our programming available to anyone who wants to access it.

Fifth, we committed to better communication. This has manifested in more direct communication with some of our committees. But many of you have probably noticed the impact our Communications Coordinator Gina Binole has had keeping our social media channels running. We are still identifying better ways to communicate and I acknowledge this is still an area of growth for the board. I know that our new executive director will be extremely helpful with this area of focus.

Sixth, anticipating the passage of the bylaws, we recognized we needed to update our Nominating Committee and board governance policies. Claire Tenscher is

taking the lead on this, and by the end of the summer we should know how our next election will operate and the board will have better tools to identify where we can strengthen our depth.

Our last area of focus was around access. We specifically adopted and implemented new policies making climbs free to members, and hikes free to anyone. Aimee Filimoehala, Bob Breivogel, and Chris Jaworski have been taking the lead on communicating with the USFS about the new Mt. Hood permit program. Even though I only mentioned a few by name, this board is extremely active and working hard this year. I want to acknowledge the great work all of them have been doing to accomplish these goals and to lead us into the next phase of our history.

MAY MEMBERSHIP DRIVE RECAP

Our May 2023 membership drive was a success. Between May 1 and May 31, we added 188 new and renewing members to the rolls, a 683 percent increase over the new and renewing members added in May of 2022.

Of the 188 members added, the vast majority (143) were full dues-paying members, followed by these membership categories in decreasing order: students, spouses of members, 60 years of age plus five years of membership, members who reside outside of Oregon or Washington, and youth. As of the end of May 2023, we've

added a total of 549 new members for the year, helping to close the gap between full-paying members (49.4 percent) and reduced-paying members (50.5 percent). At the end of the current reporting period, May 2023, our total membership stands at 2,903 members, the highest its been since 2021.

GLACIATED PEAK SOCIETY LOGO DESIGN CONTEST WINNER

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

The Mazamas are excited to announce that Marta Petteni has won the Glaciated Peak Society (GPS) logo design contest. Marta first heard about the Mazamas when she moved to the United States in 2018, but it was only after her husband joined that she learned more and decided to join earlier this year. In addition to mountaineering, Marta enjoys hiking, skiing, backpacking, and kayaking. She finds inspiration in the women in her family, her social network, and her community; “They are some of the most caring people, strong mountaineers, and incredible visionaries I know. I am grateful and honored to have them in my life.”

Marta's favorite book is All We Can Save by Ayana Elizabeth Johnson and Katharine K. Wilkinson (editors). The book is a collection of stories, essays, and poetry that highlights marginalized voices within climate change activism, science, and policy. “It’s all about hope,” says Marta. When not exploring the Pacific Northwest or her native Italian Alps, she dreams of traveling to Nepal and Patagonia. Her advice to fellow explorers is, “Know and plan before you go, enjoy safely, and explore respectfully.”

Marta’s love of travel and climate change activism carries over into her work. She is an Italian licensed architect and graphic designer specializing in working with underserved communities and in post-disaster and emergency scenarios. Her design experience spans Italy, Poland, Barcelona, Ecuador, Fiji, and the U.S.

Her favorite projects involve working with communities to create products and processes that are more inclusive, equitable, accessible, and therefore able to better respond to communities' needs.

When approaching a new graphic design project, Marta begins by asking questions. What is the key message of this product? Who is the audience? What is the inspiration and core concept? How can this be accessible yet meaningful and unique? She then begins brainstorming, diagramming, and creating options on paper through multiple media including hand-sketching, collaging, watercolors, and 3D folding techniques. Once she’s happy with the result, she switches to a computer and uses graphic design software to create digital designs. "Software are only vehicles to translate ideas - you need to have an idea and work it out first" Marta says. In

finding inspiration for the GPS logo she looked to nature. She says of her design, “my love for the mountain is reflected in this simple but compelling design inspired by the local peaks and the official Mazama logo shapes—a circle for the sky and a triangle for the peak—with the addition of blue-ice color and an ice axe to emphasize the mission of the Glaciated Peak Society.”

AROUND, AND A ROUND , AND AROUN

by Ali Gray

Oregon and Washington offer no shortage of amazing backpacking routes. One fun option is to get up close and personal with some of our volcanoes. Circumnavigating a giant mountain (or series of mountains) is a great way to get to know an area in-depth and from different perspectives.

My partner Andy and I have completed three of the region's circumnavs: the Timberline Trail around Mt. Hood, the Loowit Trail around Mount St. Helens, and the Three Sisters plus Broken Top Loop. Each of these trails offers a unique experience with an abundance of highlights, along with some challenges. Here's a rundown of our trips:

TIMBERLINE TRAIL

■ Date hiked: mid-July 2018 (pre-Muddy Fork blowdowns)

■ Days: 3 days, 2 nights

■ Distance: 42 miles

■ Elevation gain: roughly 10,000 feet

■ Access point: Timberline Lodge

■ Direction: clockwise

■ Challenge: moderate to difficult

■ Most difficult aspects: a few creek crossings, namely Eliot Creek; lack of shade on the north side

■ Water access: plenty

■ Permit: self-serve at the trailhead

■ Popular day hikes: Ramona Falls, Paradise Park, McNeil Point, Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood summit

DThe Timberline Trail is perhaps the easiest of these three routes, with plenty of water and campsite options, decent shade coverage (except on the north side), and straightforward routefinding. The trail rewards hikers with numerous wildflowers throughout (and lots of huckleberries if you time it right) and brings you closer to lesser-visited areas of our home mountain. While a few of the creek crossings can be a bit tricky, namely Eliot Creek on the north side, most don't pose too much of a problem. The trail racks up the most elevation gain of the three, but the ups and downs make it less noticeable. Keep in mind that on mid-summer weekends the trail gets busy, especially on the PCT section and around the popular day hiking areas. That said, it's still easy to find a secluded campsite with a spectacular view. The Timberline Trail is a great option for intermediate and experienced backpackers alike seeking a memorable experience.

Preceding page, clockwise from top: Heading up along the McNeil Point portion of the Timberline Trail; camp in Newton Canyon along the Timberline Trail; Andy and Ali after finishing the Timberline Trail (photo by unknown).

This page, clockwise from top: At the top of Windy Pass looking down at the Plains of Abraham on the Loowit Trail; downed trees from the 1980 eruption along the Loowit Trail; in the blast zone on the Loowit Trail. All photos by Ali Gray unless noted.

LOOWIT TRAIL

■ Date hiked: mid-June 2019

■ Days: 3 days, 2 nights

■ Distance: 29 miles

■ Elevation gain: roughly 6,500 feet

■ Access point: June Lake

■ Direction: clockwise

■ Challenge: very difficult

■ Most difficult aspects: crossing the blast zone; minimal water and shade; using fixed ropes to enter/exit a few ravines; some exposure in places

■ Water access: minimal, especially later in the summer

■ Permit: self-serve at the trailhead

■ Popular day hikes: Windy Pass, Loowit Falls, Ape Canyon, Johnston Ridge Observatory, Mount St. Helens summit

The Loowit Trail is the most technical and challenging of the three trails featured here, with narrow and exposed sections, barely any shade, fixed ropes, strategic water carries, minimal signage, and ten miles where you can't camp in the blast zone. That said, the trail is incredible, offering up-close views of the otherworldly landscape surrounding our region's most active volcano. It's amazing to see the remains of trees snapped like toothpicks along the trail, juxtaposed with the recovering vegetation and increasing wildlife in the blast zone. Life truly is remarkable. We saw few people on our hike, which started in thin snow on the south side of the mountain and continued on with pleasant temperatures and more water access than later in the summer. The trail leads to areas that are ambitious to get to on a day hike, such as the green meadows of blasted trees on the west side of the mountain and the stark (and stunning) Plains of Abraham on the east. Sore feet from rocky terrain aside, the Loowit Trail stands out as one of my very favorites.

continued on next page

This

Circumnavs, continued from previous page

THREE SISTERS PLUS BROKEN TOP LOOP

■ Date hiked: mid-July 2020 (pre-permits)

■ Days: 5 days, 4 nights

■ Distance: 57 miles

■ Elevation gain: roughly 8,500 feet

■ Access point: Tam McArthur Rim Trailhead

■ Direction: counter-clockwise

■ Permit: Central Cascades Wilderness Permit

■ Challenge: difficult

■ Most difficult aspects: blowdowns near Pole Creek; minimal shade throughout; small scrambles near No Name Lake; mosquitoes on the PCT section

■ Water access: moderate, some places with plenty, others with less

■ Popular day hikes: Moraine Lake, Green Lakes, South Sister summit, No Name Lake, Obsidian area

The Three Sisters Loop and Broken Top Loop are often hiked individually, but we opted to complete them together—highly recommended if you have the time. This is probably an even better option now that the area is permitted, as doing them as part of one trip makes exploring this amazing area logistically easier. While it's the longest of the three circumnavigations here, the trail itself offers less elevation gain and fewer creek crossings than the Timberline Trail and less technical hiking than the Loowit Trail (with the exception of a few spots around No Name Lake on Broken Top). Bring a wide-brimmed hat for the sun and some DEET for the mosquitos, and this route will offer an unforgettable experience. Seeing the Three Sisters from all sides while following the trail through old burn areas, stunning meadows and plains, black sands, lava flows, the sought-after Obsidian area, and past clear lakes perfect for a dip after a long day, this trail has it all. The spectacular beauty of the Broken Top add-on is well worth the extra day's food carry—the views along this trail are some of the best I've seen. This loop is perfect for backpackers with a bit of experience wanting to try a longer trail, or who simply want to enjoy a few days out in a remarkable place.

Ali Gray is a skier at heart, but loves doing pretty much anything in the outdoors. Hiking, backpacking, climbing, camping, paddleboarding, photography—you name it. The mountains are her happy place, and snow (and cats) are her happy things. She is a professional web designer and has been a Mazama since 2015. A Google Drive folder of maps and GPX tracks to accompany this article can be found at tinyurl.com/ali-circumnav.

page, clockwise from top: Broken Top from one of our camps on the Three Sisters plus Broken Top Loop; Green Lakes on the Three Sisters plus Broken Top Loop; fields of lava rock on the Three Sisters plus Broken Top Loop. All photos by Ali Gray unless noted.

REQUEST FOR BULLETIN SUBMISSIONS

Alex Honnold may be able to do it solo, but we can’t!

You are the Mazamas. Your stories, your adventures, and your knowledge define the organization. The Bulletin should represent that. With your help, we can produce a better product for you. The Publications team is a talented group of writers, editors, and you-can-do-it! cheerleaders willing to help you transform your knowledge and narratives into feature content to be shared with your fellow Mazamas. What will we publish? Just about anything of interest to the organization: tips and tricks, stories of trips taken, reporting on Mazama events, profiles of people, poetry, news from the climbing world, and on and on.

There are two ways that you can get your ideas into print. The first is to tip off our crack team of writers about your idea and let us do all the heavy lifting. The second is to share with us a draft of your contribution, and we can help polish it up. Our staff includes experienced editors capable of working with you to craft top-notch writing.

Pitch us your ideas by emailing publications@mazamas.org

SAYING GOODBYE

THOMAS F. HORNBEIN

NOVEMBER 6, 1930–MAY 6, 2023

“What you discover in the mountains is life changing,” mountaineer Tom Hornbein once stated when asked what advice he would give to climbers. What Hornbein did on Mt. Everest in 1963 changed more than a life; it “ushered in the modern era of mountaineering,” according to a recent statement issued by the American Alpine Club.

Hornbein, who died in early May at his home in Estes Park, Colorado, was a member of the first American expedition to climb Mt. Everest. During that adventure, he and a few fellow climbers departed from the main group to become the first to ascend the world’s highest peak via the perilous West Ridge. He then told the death-defying story in Everest: The West Ridge (1965).

Hornbein was born in St. Louis in 1930. At summer camp in Colorado, he fell in love with the outdoors. He earned a bachelor’s degree in geology at Boulder (1952) and a medical degree from Washington University School of Medicine in St. Louis (1956). An anesthesiologist, he then studied the effects of high altitude on breathing while on the faculty at the University of Washington School of Medicine in Seattle from 1963 to 2002. He continued climbing and in 2018, The Mountaineers honored him with their Lifetime Achievement Award.

LLOYD WEISENSEE

NOVEMBER 6, 1930–MAY 6, 2023

Lloyd joined the Mazamas in 1968. He earned his Guardian Peak Award in 1971 and his Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks Award in 1992. He was a lifelong member of the Oregon State Bar, the Portland City Club, and the Mazamas, and was a passionate cyclist and triathlete.

MAGGIE BEAGLE

2009–MAY 27, 2023

For the past eight years, Maggie served as the Chief Morale Officer and High Commissioner for Tail Wagging here at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. She could often be found greeting visitors to the Mazama Library or wandering in search of pets, ear scratches, belly rubs, and the occasional treat. When not fulfilling her official duties, Maggie enjoyed hiking, running on the beach, napping in the sun (or under our librarian's desk), and chasing squirrels out of her garden. She will be greatly missed by all that knew her.

Above: Ellie Crocker and Larry Solomon ascending Dalles Mountain, May 15, 2023, Photo by Bob Breivogel.

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS

SUNDAY SKILL BUILDERS

■ Class dates:

□ July 9—Sport Climbing Anchors 101

□ July 23—Advanced Anchors

□ Aug 13—Rappelling 101

□ Aug 27—Advanced Rappel Tricks

■ Application Opens: Rolling

■ Prerequisites: See website for details. Ready to improve your alpine skills?

We're excited to let you know about the latest Mazama class series: the Sunday Skill-builder Clinics, new for 2023. These clinics are convenient, consistent, handson, bite-sized, and inexpensive, with rotating (and repeating) topics.

Here’s the scoop:

■ Clinics are on the second and fourth Sunday of the month

■ Second Sunday will usually be more beginner/intermediate topics

■ Fourth Sunday will usually be more intermediate/advanced topics

■ Registration opens one month before the class date

■ Clinics are about three hours and usually from 6 to 9 p.m.

■ Location will usually be the Mazama Mountaineering Center

■ Maximum class size is usually about 25 students

■ Cost: $25 for Mazama members, $35 for nonmembers

Class coordinators: John Godino (alpinesavvy.com) and Andy Nuttbrock

MAZAMA TRAIL TENDING

Dates: July 20–22, 2023

Location: Mazama Trail

Each year the Mazamas repair and maintain our namesake trail on the north side of Mt. Hood. This work doesn’t happen without a crew of eager volunteers and you can come up for 1, 2, or all 3 days. Dry camping is available at the trailhead parking lot for tents and small RVs if you want to stay over. Tasks will include cutting logs, trimming brush, tread repair and clearing drain dips. No experience necessary, all tools provided. Sign up on the Mazama calendar. Leader: Richard Pope 503-860-8789

SAN JUAN OUTING

Dates: September 11–18, 2023

Cost: $1,089 for members; $1,239 for nonmembers

Join the Mazamas for a seven-day outing in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado where we will enjoy daily B- or C-level hikes. Our first day will take us to Mesa Verde National Park where we will hike among the famous Anasazi ruins. We then drive along the Million Dollar Highway, recognized as one of the most scenic drives in the country, through the Victorian-era preserved mining towns of Silverton and Ouray, the latter dubbed the “Switzerland of America.” We will also visit the upscale nearby town of Telluride where we will enjoy more fabulous hiking.

RAPPEL FOR PURPOSE!

George Cummings is celebrating his 87th year by rappelling 530 feet off Big Pink (the U.S. Bank Tower), the tallest building in downtown Portland. He is also celebrating the 129th anniversary of the Mazamas in July by supporting its future as a leading outdoor organization in the Pacific Northwest. But he needs your help to raise at least $2,000 by July 7 to secure a place on the rappel. George will donate the cost of the rappel ($1,000), so whatever you donate will directly benefit the Mazamas.

tinyurl.com/GeorgeBigPink

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND THE MAZAMAS?

FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101

■ Finished up its course in May with a Smith Rock climb.

■ This year's class consisted of 25 students (parents and children) and a lot of supportive alumni volunteers.

■ This year’s course encountered many scheduling conflicts with the overbooking of the MMC and Mazama Lodge.

■ Planned an info night for June and expects registration will happen this summer for the new course to start in September.

■ Casey Ferguson and Richard Hall are the coordinators for 2023–2024

■ Requests members with significant experience with anchors, belaying, rappeling, and fixed lines, such as AR grads and climb leaders, to assist next year.

ADVANCED ROCK:

■ Completed the 2023 course in May with all students graduating, including some new to the Mazamas.

■ Added a high-angle rescue scenario this year.

■ Planning to continue periodic practice sessions through 2023 and beyond.

■ Exploring the possibility of adding new mini-courses or skill builders for summer and fall.

NORDIC

■ Lindsey Addison is the new chair.

■ Outlining events for 2024 ski school.

INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL

■ For 2023–2024, Jessica Minifie and Toby Contreras are co-class coordinators, Ann Marie Caplan is student coordinator, and Melinda Hugo is committee chair.

■ Working on admissions for the next class.

CLIMBING:

■ Guy Wettstein has replaced Trey Schutrumpf as chair and continues to serve as secretary.

■ Busy helping climb leaders put up many climbs for the season and bringing those into compliance with the new bylaw changes.

■ Wish to remind climb leaders to stay updated with their certifications.

EXPEDITION:

■ Awarded Bob Wilson grants for expeditions to Arrigetch Peaks, Nahanni Lotus Flower Tower, and Stikine Ice Cap.

■ Desperately looking for new members to help the committee with activities beyond evaluating grants.

■ Laetitia Pascal is reaching out to staff about partnering with an organization to do some stewardship at Horsethief Butte.

FIRST AID

■ Worked on policies and procedures for rescheduling WFA students who were unable to complete a course.

■ Completed a several months-long project on psychological first aid and incorporated it into the June course.

RESEARCH

■ Due to organizational changes, the committee is unfunded for the current year and has not awarded any grants.

PUBLICATIONS:

■ Asks members and committees to submit reports and stories on their activities and initiatives.

■ New member: Jen Travers.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM:

■ Added a new Assistant Coordinator/Chair to shadow the current chair for a year and step into the role the following season.

■ Preparing for the 2024 season by reviewing policies, incorporating lessons learned, reviewing student and leader feedback, and working to streamline scheduling in order to prevent conflicts.

■ New members: Lily Cox-Skall (Marketing Coordinator), Ali Koch, and David Gross.

■ Working with Trail Trips to forecast the need for CPR offerings.

■ Working on the WFA/ MFA schedule for the upcoming season to meet the needs of the Climb Committee and interested ICS students.

■ Assisted Base Medical with annual background checks on WFA instructors.

■ Exploring the hazards our members may encounter in the field when administering help to people using Fentanyl, an extremely potent drug.

MAZAMA CLASSICS

Whether you are new to the Northwest, a seasoned backcountry traveler, a longtime Portland resident who’s ready to start exploring, or somewhere in between, we can connect you to the hiking, climbing, and skiing adventures you seek.

■ Climb a mountain

■ Go rock climbing

■ Hike or backpack

■ Backcountry ski or snowshoe

■ Discover canyoneering

■ Meet interesting people

■ Learn new outdoor skills

■ Check out our library

■ Stay at our mountain lodge

■ See a presentation

■ Discover new places

■ Trek in a foreign country

■ Join an outing or expedition

■ Fix a trail

■

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

■ On Tuesday, July 4, Dick and Jane Miller will be holding a summer picnic at their home. Classics and other Mazamas are welcome to attend. The event is free but attendees are asked to bring a salad, main dish, or dessert to share. Dick and Jane will provide plates, cups, utensils, napkins, and water.

□ The event begins at noon with food at 1 p.m.

□ Address: 17745 SW Cooper Mountain Drive, Beaverton, OR 97007

□ Please follow signs from SW 175th Avenue to the parking area. Park and bring your food to the dining area.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

Contact the Classics Chair, Gordon Fulks at classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

The Classics Committee needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING

Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

PRESS THAT BUTTON: REFLECTIONS ON A RESCUE

by Forest Brook Menke-Thielman

We had climbed 3,700 feet over eight miles in the blistering sun, postholing in the heatwavesoftened snow past our knees, even up to our chests. In the waning hours of a mid-May evening, we were four tired and discouraged men setting up camp on the banks of Colchuck Lake. Our lofty goal had been to summit Colchuck, Dragontail, Little Annapurna, and Prusik peaks. With obvious evidence of recent avalanches all around us, we were reluctantly scaling back to three peaks…or two. Or maybe we'd dig an avalanche pit in the morning and reconsider. But it was already pretty obvious: there would be no climbing this weekend. After setting up our snow platforms and tents, we broke out our packed spirits and began sipping whiskey. As the sun dipped out of sight and the alpenglow began to fade, two hikers stumbled into our camp.

“Hey, how are you guys doing?” we asked. “Not so good,” said one. “I fell down a twenty-foot cliff,” said the other, who seemed to be struggling to stand. I took a closer look, and noticed skin missing from the second’s face alongside recently congealed blood. “Oh my god! Your face is [messed] up!” I shouted instinctively. We asked if they wanted medical care; three of us had WFR (Wilderness First Responder) training, and one of us WFA (Wilderness First Aid). The two men—the injured Sammy and his friend Benny—looked relieved to find help, and quickly accepted.

We swapped names and shook hands, and I noticed Sam’s skin felt alarmingly cold. We sat Sam down on a foam sleeping pad and began assessing his injuries, and they recounted their story. The two had entered the Enchantments from the other side of Aasgard Pass, camped a night, then crossed over the pass earlier in the day. As the snow softened in the heat and they began to posthole, they looked for an alternate path to descend toward Colchuck Lake. Sammy was trying to climb down a steep rock face when he fell. He hit his chin on a ledge and tumbled several times before coming to a stop in the snow. He

wasn’t sure if he had hit his head or spine, but he had instinctively covered his head as he tumbled. When he later pointed out the cliff he fell from, it looked to me that twenty feet was a pretty conservative estimate. From the cliff to our campsite, he had been part walking, part crawling through the snow.

We went to work. Alex and I checked his injuries: heavy bruises on both knees, as well as active bleeding, and a very swollen ankle, but no obvious lifethreatening trauma. I noted that his skin was alarmingly cold. While Alex began to bandage him up and dole out some pain

continued on next page

Above: Sammy being helped to the helicopter.

Photo by Forest Brook Menke-Thielman

Rescue, continued from previous page

meds, I grabbed a down jacket for our patient. Ryan contacted his dad through his Garmin InReach satellite communicator, and had him relay information to the Chelan County Sheriff, and Thomas took everyone’s bottles down to the lake to pump water.

At the time we still thought self-extraction was possible; Sammy, likely full of adrenaline, was adamant that he and Benny needed to hike out that evening. We then performed a focused spine assessment, and determined to the best of our ability that Sammy had not injured his spine, and we could release spinal precautions. He was impressed with our backcountry medical skills and asked us how we knew this stuff; we recommended both the Mazama MFA (Mountain First Aid) and NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) WFA and WFR.

Now he was bandaged and his ankle supported, but our patient was still shivering, despite the pad and down jacket. We’d asked him to get into dry clothes, but he hadn’t done so. As the daylight faded, we also realized our guests did not have proper headlamps. I told them that they were adults, and could do as they wished, but that Sammy was cold and in danger of hypothermia. To boot, he likely had a broken ankle or knee, and was struggling to weight his leg. Without headlamps in the dark, through more soft snow, and difficult navigational terrain over miles, including a closed road and a couple of raging rivers to cross, it was simply unrealistic for them to hike out that night. The consequences seemed high— there was a real possibility that Sammy would succumb to the cold. I made an impassioned plea, almost tearfully: “If you guys were our best friends, we wouldn’t let you leave tonight.”

They looked at each other briefly, perhaps for the first time realizing the gravity of the situation, and agreed. After firmly directing Sammy to shed his wet clothes and get into some dry ones of my own, Thomas poured boiling water into a bottle for a heat pack, got him on top of two pads, and into a warm bag. “Your job is to get warm,” I told him. Benny and I dug

out a snow platform and set up their tent. As Alex and Thomas continued to check in with Sammy and Benny, I assumed the role of backcountry cook, boiling water, lining up freeze-dried meals, and passing them out. Ryan continued to relay information to the sheriff through his dad, this time communicating clearly that this was a rescue scenario, though not an emergency, as we had stabilized our patient. Thus, a morning rescue was in order, and as far as we understood, was underway.

The next morning we slept in and awoke with the sun baking our tents. I checked in with our guests, who had enjoyed a solid night of sleep, but Sammy definitely could no longer walk on his ankle. He apologized for bleeding into the long underwear that I had lent him, and said his bandage felt tight. When he exposed his ankle, it was badly swollen, and it was clear that we had to rebandage his injuries.

Afterwards, we spent a while speculating on how a rescue team might extract Sam with a litter. Then we watched rockfall and avalanches, thanking our lucky stars we weren’t climbing. One of the slides was so loud we all looked into the sky expecting to see a low-flying plane.

Another avalanche came off a cliff northwest of Colchuck Peak, blocks of ice and snow the size of trucks tumbling down the face, clacking together with deep, resonant tones. I remembered that the bodies of two climbers still lay on the slopes below Colchuck, under the debris of a February avalanche—conditions had not yet been safe enough to recover them. We talked about the joys of not climbing, and shared our observations with a few passing backcountry skiers.

After an hour or two, one of us asked Ryan when we could expect the rescue, since he had been communicating with the outside world. He asked his dad via text, and after a moment he uttered, “Oh no. They’re waiting for us to press the SOS button.” The sheriff needed a definitive signal from us to engage.

We were, briefly, stunned. The four of us, each with backcountry medical training and the technology to summon help, had managed to skip the step needed to initiate the rescue: calling 911 or pressing the SOS button on a satellite device. How? Thinking back, we initially thought that Sammy and Benny might self-extract; then thought we might hike out with them in the morning. We later made the assumption that the sheriff was mounting a rescue, based on the limited text conversation relayed via Ryan’s dad. Without direct communication, it’s easy to misunderstand the expectations.

This speaks to another cause. Engaging emergency services feels like a big step, especially when the severity is uncertain. Texting them via Ryan’s dad was a way of hedging, but it set a course leading to the misunderstanding. What we knew but didn’t fully appreciate is that SOS, or 911, initiates contact, not rescue. It allows emergency personnel to collect information and make an assessment, and then advise, or give directions and instructions; rescue is just one of their options. Wilderness responders will tell you: If something appears to be an emergency, trust yourself and don’t hesitate—press that button. If it turns out the case of appendicitis was just gas, or you discover you were next to the trail all along,

Sammy receiving aid in camp.

Photo by Forest Brook Menke-Thielman.

you’ll have the luxury to feel embarrassed later.

I had been involved in three previous backcountry emergencies. In one, a friend swung a hatchet into his leg while chopping wood on the first night of a fourday North Cascades backpacking trip. I had just taken a WFR class, and was able to irrigate the wound, get some Steri-Strips on it, and bandage it quickly. He healed in the field, continued on the trip, and never needed professional medical attention; almost 20 years later, he barely has a scar.

The second situation was more grim. We were four rough miles into a bachelor party hiking trip, exhausted from carrying packs bulging absurdly with party supplies, when one companion sliced his second toe with a hatchet, straight through his croc sandals. The bone was severed and the toe hung by a sliver of skin, blood pulsing out with his heartbeat. After stopping the bleeding and bandaging the foot, it took eight of us several hours to get our 6 foot, 7 ince, 280–pound friend back to the car, four at a time taking five-minute shifts lifting a limb to our shoulders.

In the last incident, a participant on a Mazama climb became badly sunburned, then sat in the snow for too long at camp, and ended up with both heat exhaustion and hypothermia. We stabilized them for the night, and thankfully all walked out the next day.

None of these cases had called for a rescue, as we were able to self-extract or mitigate in the field. So it was a new experience for me when we finally did press SOS on one of the satellite communicators. (We had Garmin InReach; SPOT, Zoleo, and other sat devices will be similar.) Once you lift the cover and depress the button, the unit beeps loudly for 20 seconds (you have to keep holding the button), giving you a message on the display that says you are contacting emergency services and that it is only for emergency use. Within minutes you’ll get a response—for

Garmin, from the International Emergency Response Coordination Center. They asked a few quick questions on the nature of the emergency and connected us with local search and rescue. We soon received a message from Deputy Mike McLeod of the Chelan County sheriff’s office: “Can you give me an update for the weather up there. And if the patient can be moved at all. There is an LZ [landing zone] about 450 yards to the north of you…we should be able to reach the LZ by 14:00…What is the patient’s condition?”

It was 11:40 a.m. We had been sitting

When the helicopter came it nearly blew my hat off; I had never been so close to one landing. The Chelan County Sheriff officer asked only two questions: “Where is he, and what happened?” I pointed Sammy out, and told him we suspected a broken ankle. “Okay, I’ll need one of you to help me get him in the back.” We helped Sammy hobble to the chopper, handing his bag to the officer. “How often do you come up here?” I asked. He shot me a glance of both gloom and resignation. “We come up here A LOT.” I mentioned the avalanches and said that we had abandoned our hopes of climbing. “Thank you for that,” he said with sincerity.

around for hours waiting for a rescue that wasn’t coming, and now that one actually was, we had just over two hours to secure Sammy’s ankle for travel and get him about half a kilometer away. We got to work packing up Sammy’s things while Alex and I used Benny’s foam pad to fashion a boot to immobilize his ankle. His bruising had worsened overnight, but he could move his knees, so we knew they weren’t broken. He told us that with support, he thought he could hobble there. We gave him trekking poles, supporting him physically every now and then, with one of us in front and one behind in case he became unsteady, allowing him to slide over the snow on his rump when it was easier than walking, guiding him along the easiest path to the wooden helipad. He winced in pain here and there, but his determination was fierce. We got there an hour early, and relaxed.

When the chopper lifted off, we couldn’t help but howl with excitement. Sammy gave us a thumbs up from inside, having donned the headset given to him by the pilot. We watched the bird fly away over the peaks of the Enchantments, bound for the hospital in either Leavenworth or Wenatchee. With only the hike out ahead of us, we now faced the many emotions held at bay by the emergency—but disappointment was not one of them. We may not have reached the summit of a single peak, but we had successfully orchestrated a helicopter rescue, made two new friends, and maybe, just maybe, saved a life.

Forest is a Mazama member in the Leadership Development program. A public educator by trade, he enjoys teaching others, creating art, skiing, climbing, bike touring, running, and all things outdoors. He is an armchair activist and political enthusiast. Fellow Mazama members Thomas Veeman, Alex Aguilar, and Ryan Zubieta, who helped edit this article, assisted in the rescue. They are still in contact with Benny and Sammy, who may need surgery to repair a torn lisfranc ligament; they are otherwise happy, healthy, and approve of the writing of this article.

Rescue group post hike out.

Photo by Forest Brook Menke-Thielman.

A SPLENDID PLAN B: THE ALPINE LAKES HIGH ROUTE

by Jen Travers

It was the most memorable sunset I have ever witnessed. Perched on the edge of the idyllic Tank Lakes plateau, circled by peaks in every direction, we watched the sky for more than an hour go through the most exquisite transition, slow and subtle, from orange to red to purple to mauve. It has been my standard for judging all sunsets since.

August 2015. Mazama pals Seeger Fischer and Kurt Hiland were my partners. The original plan was a circumnavigation of Mt. Adams, but a nearby fire filled the skies with heavy smoke. Time to make plan B. The air quality maps indicated that the west side of the Washington Cascades would be clear, so we focused on that area. I found an online trip report of the Tank Lakes, with its tantalizing granite terrain, and shared it with my team. They were equally enthused and we decided to check out this alpine wonderland.

We wanted a loop hike, so we chose the Alpine Lakes High Route (originally delineated in Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide #1). Our plan was to start at West Fork Foss trailhead to head up into the high country, and exit via Necklace Valley. The two trailheads are only 2.5 miles apart on the same road, so we brought a bike for shuttling and stashed it in the woods near the exit point. As we were finalizing our supplies and gear at the trailhead, I became concerned about my pack weight. I began to cull items, including the one-pound box of

instant cheesecake. Kurt kindly offered to carry it. We may also have ridiculed Seeger’s foam roller. I recall thinking it was quite a bulky thing to carry when I saw him secure it to his pack, but I did not understand its value at the time. By the end of the trip we were making use of it every evening and considered it an ingenious lightweight luxury.

Solitude was one of our primary objectives, and we had the good fortune of flexible schedules. Our start time was late afternoon on a Sunday, and the weekend hordes were exiting as we hiked up West

Above: Angeline Lake.

Photo by Jen Travers.

Fork Foss Creek. The first few miles were a steady trudge up through deep forest, and then we began to pass the first of 17 lakes we would see on our trip. We made our way along the shores of Copper Lake and Trout Lake to Little Heart Lake for the first night's camp. We were now alone in the wilderness and would not see anyone for the next three days.

We started early on the second day, and the scenery continued to get better as we gained the high country. We climbed up past the gorgeous aquamarine waters of Big Heart Lake, passed over a ridge high above Angeline Lake and then stopped to swim at a pretty unnamed pond above Chetwoot Lake. There was no longer a trail, only occasional cairns. We used map, compass, and a handheld GPS device to navigate. We turned eastward

on the rugged traverse section of the loop, traveling on granite boulder fields and through heather meadows towards Iron Cap Mountain. The views opened up as the trees diminished, and we found ourselves surrounded by the sea of mountains that is the Washington Cascades.

We camped at Iron Cap Lake on night two. Calling it a lake is generous. It was just a small tarn at the northern base of the summit block, with a remnant snowfield still lingering in the most shaded corner. The shore was covered with dusty granite boulders, and we each pitched our tents on the flattest slabs we could find. Kurt chose a precarious perch on a rock jutting out over the outflow stream, tumbling down to Otter Lake and the valley below. We broke out the cheesecake for this evening at the apex of our route.

We awoke to the smell of smoke. Emerging from our tents, we saw a sickening miasma in the eastern sky, and watched it slowly creep over the rim of Iron Cap and down into our little glacial basin. Very disconcerting. We had no idea how close this fire might be. Packing up slowly, we debated whether to continue on the loop or return the way we came. Within two hours, the westerly winds picked up, and the smoke started to dissipate. Since we were at the halfway point, we decided to continue on. We scrambled up to the northern rim of Iron Cap and dropped our packs to head up the final ridge to the summit—a nice respite to negotiate the chunky granite talus without a heavy pack. Views were still murky, but we spied continued on next page

1: Summit Chief, Overcoat and Chimney from Tank Lake.

2: Kurt Hiland on a granite slab.

3: Kurt Hiland and Seeger Fisher crossing a boulder field.

4: Seeger Fisher, Kurt Hiland, and Jen Travers on the summit of Iron Cap Mountain.

Photos by Jen Travers and Kurt Hiland.

the Tank Lakes basin to the east, our next destination. It looked so close, but it took us five hours to cover the sinuous five miles to get there, the most physically taxing section of our trip. After some confusing route finding, pushing through brush, and following cairns through boulder field after boulder field, we arrived.

We set up our tents on a promontory above one of the lakes. The Tank Lakes are surrounded by some excellent mountaineering objectives. We spent time trying to identify all the peaks around us including Summit Chief, Overcoat and Chimney to the south, Daniel and Hinman to the east, and Iron Cap to the west. Then the show began. The Pacific breeze had blown most of the smoke eastward throughout the day, but some haze remained, and this likely contributed to the

dazzling color changes we enjoyed during that special sunset.

On day four, we slowly wandered around the Tank Lakes Basin, then reluctantly scrambled down toward Necklace Valley. After four miles of downclimbing, we enjoyed putting our boots on a real trail, and began to make good time past the little jeweled lakes of the Necklace Valley. We began to encounter people again, and made our last night camp at Jade Lake.

I recall being particularly sad and hesitant to leave the wilderness and return to reality. The morning march out

through the forested Necklace Valley felt interminable, and we arrived in Seattle just in time for those awesome traffic jams! We blasted the tunes and allowed our minds to continue wandering in the high country.

Five days, four nights, 29 miles, 8,000 feet of elevation gain.

Above: Sunset over Tank Lakes.

Right: Seeger Fisher, Kurt Hiland, and Jen Travers.

Photos by Jen Travers.

(RE)INTRODUCING THE MAZAMA LIBRARY

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

For the past 109 years, the Mazamas have operated a library. What started in 1914 with a handful of books has grown over the years into a collection of over 4,600 titles across the circulating and special collections. The collections in the Mazama Library strive to answer three essential questions: how to do it, where to do it, and who's done it, respectively.

The “how to do it” section (Dewey 795–796) focuses on the technical guidebooks. It details free climbing, top roping, cross-country skiing, and rope technique, to name just a few. The “where to do it” section (900s) focuses on the guidebooks for climbing and hiking areas worldwide.

While our collections are global in scope, they are not exhaustive. And since the Mazama Library is based in Portland, our guidebooks skew to the Pacific Northwest, and the collections are heavily focused on California, Oregon, and Washington. The last section is biographies, or the “who's done it” section. Here you'll find biographies of well-known climbers, hikers, walkers, and outdoor enthusiasts.

The public side of the library also contains our noncirculating collections of outdoor and historical journals and periodicals. You'll find complete runs of the (British) Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, Canadian Alpine Journal, Mazama Annuals, and many more. The library subscribes to leading outdoor magazines like Outside, Climbing, Alpinist, and National Geographic, as well as publications

from our partner organizations like the (Seattle) Mountaineers, Mounmtaineering Club of Alaska, (Salem) Chemeketans, and more.

The noncirculating rare books collection contains many one-of-a-kind books of historical significance. Given the diminishing number of specialized mountaineering libraries in the United States, the Mazama Library holds, in some cases, the only copy of a particular book in the United States. In addition to oneof-a-kind books, the rare book collection also houses our extensive collection of autographed works, including several unique annotated volumes of regional historical significance.

Rounding out the library's collection is our growing collection of reference books. These are dedicated, noncirculating copies of the library's most-used technical books

and guidebooks. The reference collection ensures that even if the book you are looking for is checked out, we'll have a reference copy for you to look at onsite. The library also has a used bookshelf where you can find $1 books; proceeds help support the library by funding new additions to the collection.

The library's catalog is available online at www.mazamas.org/library. There you can search the collection and put books on hold. The Mazama Library is open Tuesday–Thursday from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. We hope to expand our open hours as activities and events return to the Mazama Mountaineering Center following the COVID-19 shutdown. Please keep an eye out for extended hours in the future.

Until then, remember—it's yours to use!

BOOK REVIEW

Turn Around Time

by David Guterson

by Claire Tenscher

In this lovely volume, described as “a walking poem for the Pacific Northwest,” David Guterson uses the phrase “turn around time” in its literal sense—the time at which you must head back to the trailhead regardless of your intended objective— and as a metaphor for aging. Following this, content ranges from the only poetic reference to moleskin I’ve ever read to dense reflections on aging. There are instantly recognizable trail memories and reflections on life. As befits both subjects, Guterson’s writing is infused with humor.

The reader is often reminded of the commonalities we share as outdoors-users, from Guterson’s description of his fellow hiker’s “nasal celebration of Hank Williams Sr. delivered into the abyss” to quick breakfasts (“suck down your tea, then, tuck in your gruel you and I must move”), and mentions of cairns that document their builders’ wrong choice of path.

Physically, Turn Around Time would look great on a shelf if you wanted to buy it; it is also available from local public libraries. The care that Mountaineers Books put into the publication is clear. The drawings that accompany the text often highlight its subtext: skulls sketched in boulder fields and mazes in forests.

Don’t let the prologue fool you, the rest of the book is composed of poems, some of which are fairly dense with nonobvious meaning. It should not be a quick read, for which I blame the tardiness of this review. At times, I found myself re-reading passages to try to understand their intent and meaning. By and large, this is not an issue—pushing through one poem I would land on the next and dance through it. Giving yourself enough time to soak into the words is crucial to enjoying Turn Around Time. There is a joy to the memories in these pages and a familiarity to me as someone who has hiked in the Northwest. I recommend a read.

“In other words, we have to start toward home, though it’s not the end of the hike for us…”

WHO IS THIS BOOK FOR?

■ Hikers who love poetry

■ People who want to read perhaps the only poem that compares sternum straps to tumplines

BOOK REVIEW

Extraordinary Oregon!

by Matt Reeder

by Silja Tobin

The first time I entered the Mazama Mountaineering Center was only three months after I moved to Portland. Eager to learn more about hikes in the area and meet people to adventure with, I attended an event hosted by the Adventurous Young Mazamas where member Matt Reeder spoke about his new book, PDX Hiking 365.

Fast forward five years and PDX Hiking 365 is a staple in my hike planning, rarely making its way back onto the bookshelf, and Matt Reeder is now a close friend. I anxiously awaited the release of Matt’s newest book: Extraordinary Oregon! 125 Fantastic Hikes across the state of Oregon.

Matt started writing this book during the early days of the pandemic, and over the last two years, he drove over 20,000 miles to come up with this comprehensive list of the best, most extraordinary hikes in our beautiful state. He hiked over 1500 miles in Oregon alone. To be included, all hikes must be easy to access and navigate, and also must be doable in one day.

I am a big fan of the way Extraordinary Oregon! is organized. There are numerous ways to dive in when trip planning, either by starting with the map of the entire state; starting with the region you’re interested in and narrowing it down using the charts at the beginning of each chapter that note the distance and elevation gain of each hike; or using the detailed index.

Each hike starts with a helpful quick reference guide— distance, elevation gain, trailhead elevation, trail high point, season (that the trail is accessible), best time of year, and what pass (if any) is needed. One notable addition to this book is a land acknowledgment for each hike, letting the reader know whose traditional lands the hikes take place on. This is followed by driving directions to the trailhead, along with drive time from the closest town.

From there, Matt describes what to expect. He walks you through the hike, describing each section and offering fun facts or tidbits along the way. He may tell you what flowers and trees you’ll find (like the fascinating Brewer’s spruce on Kerby Peak), or an interesting historical fact about the trail or area. He’ll often offer suggestions for ways to continue the hike if you’re up for a longer adventure, or offshoots to explore. He makes sure you’re aware of any notable risks, such as exposed sections near which you may want to closely watch a child (or someone with a fear of heights!), a difficult creek crossing, or the presence of ticks. Although not a guide for backpacking, the guide does note where you may find a good camp spot on some of these routes.

Each hike also includes a CalTopo map of the trail, as well as a QR code that allows you to open the map from your phone or download and print a copy. Another thing to note is that any hike

that is not dog-friendly will include an icon at the top of the page, so you know to leave your furry friends at home.

The photography throughout the book is beautiful—I only wish printing costs made it feasible for them to be in color! The marketer in me cannot resist pointing you to Matt’s Instagram account (@offthebeatentrailpdx), where you can find these photos and so many more.

Overall, Extraordinary Oregon! is an excellent guide to hiking in our state and I cannot wait to dive into these hikes in the coming months and years. I’ve always thought it would be fun to make my way through one of Matt’s books until I’ve completed each and every one—I think this may be the one to do it with!

GETTING TO KNOW THE MAZAMA BOARD

by Claire Tenscher

With the pandemic and bylaws changes we wanted to give members a chance to get to know who is on the board; not as leaders but as fellow outdoors enthusiasts. For this first duo, Chris Jaworski and Claire Tenscher sat down and had a long ranging conversation about the Mazamas, life, and various adventures. Feel free to use these as conversation starters when you see us, we are working towards being more visible and connected with other members. We’ve excerpted some choice bits for you.

What do you do in the outdoors?

Chris: Climb, mountaineer, kayak, sail, cycle, run, hike, ski, and swim.

Claire: Cycle (road and gravel), swim, run, hike, and ski (frontside and backcountry).

Share a story from your early days in the wild?

Chris: Some friends and I were canoeing the Green River in Utah for a long weekend. It’s a beautiful river and canyon, the weather was gorgeous, we slept at night under the stars. I was sharing a canoe with a buddy, and our natural style of companionship is argumentative, we played basketball together, it’s all part of the friendship. Within the first hour of the trip we were heading for a canyon wall, doing everything we were supposed to when I reached out to brace against the wall and snapped my paddle. I was able to get a paddle from someone else on the trip, but that certainly didn’t help reduce the arguments. Later that day, while arguing about who forgot what, we approached a Class 1–2 rapid, which should have been low key, the only thing the book mentioned was “whatever you do, don’t go over parallel.” So of course, we went over parallel, luckily we didn’t sink, but it was close.

On the final day of the trip the group told me, “Hey you like that kind of stuff, go climb that ridge and scout.” I saw a beautiful flat river as it emptied into the farmlands. Based on my beta, the group decide not to button up our boats, not to tie down every bag because it looked like an easy float. Due to the high tensions, my buddy and I had split up into different

canoes. Of course an hour down the river there was a field of Volkswagen Bus-sized boulders with narrow fast channels. The first boat decidesd to take it and they dumped everything. No one was hurt, but it was a yard sale on the water. My new paddling partner had bought brand new kitchen gear from REI and it was all floating down the river. I don’t think he was very pleased with me.

Claire: On the river theme, my stepmother was a raft guide as a young woman so she’d put in for the Grand Canyon lottery. When I was in high school that private trip permit finally came up. We had a great group with lots of different personalities and a beautiful time of year in the spring before the mud was fully up. We were doing some hiking and one of the early stops required some canyoneering skill. This wasn’t guided so it was up to me to decide if I could do it. The first part of the hike, right out of camp, was a ten-foot red sandstone rollover. I climbed myself up

that and then looked down and realized I had a real problem. While the rest of the group carried on, I sat on the edge and tried to psych myself over my fear of exposure to climb back down. The hike ended with me crying and one of my friends acting as a human elevator. It was an early lesson in correctly interpreting my own skill level and comfortability.

Claire Tenscher backpacking.

Photo from Claire Tenscher.

How did you get started in the outdoors?

Chris: Skiing at Little Switzerland, Wisconsin, near the outdoor mecca of Milwaukie where I grew up, getting after that massive 500 feet vert. I remember the haybales at the end of the hill and calf strap ski brakes.

Claire: Living in the woods outside Mt. Shasta, CA, (no, I’ve never climbed it) for my early life, hanging outside my house was an outdoor adventure.

What do you want for the Mazamas?

Chris: To broaden the reach of the Mazamas, continuing projects like what we’ve done with Ski Mountaineering. More hiking, more positive impact on our community. I want the organization to see itself. When you have the opportunity to do what we do and organize around what we do, there’s a responsibility to make a positive impact on the community.

Claire: I want the Mazamas to be a welcoming space for more people. I want there to be more opportunities to participate and more fun things happening.

Interlude

We wandered around topics like Olympic National Park trail

recommendations, career trajectories, books, and snorkeling. We discovered we’re both big fans of taking wildly different jobs so we can keep learning, and we share a sentiment with probably many Mazamas that there are only so many weekends a year in which to adventure.

Favorite book:

Chris: A Walk in the Woods, Bill Bryson—I used to give it out to trip leaders after my boys’ scouting trips.

Claire: Desert Solitaire, Edward Abbey—As a kid my dad read me the Monkey Wrench Gang as a bedtime story. I love this book’s focus on Abbey’s real-life adventures in Arches.

How did you find adventures in Portland?

Chris: A (now) dog-eared copy of Outside Magazine’s Adventure Guide to the Pacific Northwest.

Claire: Did some rambles and made a couple of hiking buddies.

This weekend I was going up to the Olympic National Forest, thus the lastminute recommendation needs, and Chris’ son was driving down from Seattle for a

pre-Father’s Day happy hour. It was a great chance to chat—hopefully we can talk with some of you the same way.

Chris Jaworski beach camping in Baja California Sur.

Photo from Chris Jaworski.

Chris' dog-eared adventure guidebook.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS MINUTES

by Acting Board Secretaries

MARCH 22, 2023

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Claire Tenscher, Secretary; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Bob Breivogel, Marty Hanson, Charles Barker, Aimee Filimoehala, Chris Jaworski; Staff: Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director; Guests: Jeff Hawkins, Member at Large, Guy Wettstein, Climbing Committee

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS AGENDA

■ MMC HVAC

□ Jeff Hawkins: We’re on a journey to carbon neutral. Numerous upgrades over the past decade have been dedicated to this end. Our HVAC system has been broken for nearly two years. This is a proposal for replacing the unit in the archiving room. We’re over the temp limit and humidity for the documents stored in the archive, and we have no protection for water leaks or heat domes. Let’s replace our natural gas, broken HVAC system with a new heat pump mini split that is more efficient. It is more expensive than repairing the broken system, but the broken system is barely serviced in this area.

□ We have unfortunately replaced one newish mini split, this was likely due to too large of a unit being installed, they generally last 20 years. It should have lower operating costs and be more reliable than the 17-year-old unit it replaced.

□ A humidifier alone would heat the room.

□ The work needs to be done, Liz working with Kaleen will identify how to pay for it.

UPDATE CLIMBING PAGE WITH THE BYLAWS CHANGE IN MIND

■ Guy Wettstein: The new climb pricing is reflected on the page, the FAQ has been updated, there are a few open questions but in general we are invited to review the pages and share feedback.

FEB 2023 MINUTES

■ Aimee Filimoehala moved to approve, Charles seconded. All in favor, minutes approved.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ Nothing raised from committee.

■ Tax exemption for the MMC is in progress.

■ Financial numbers will be available in April.

■ Budget to actuals will not be available for December.

OUTINGS COMMITTEE FEE MODEL

■ Every outing is unique and must be costed differently. In the past the fees had to adjust based on how many attendees because they were meant to cost exactly what the trip cost to run. Covering the leader fees is included in their fixed expenses.

■ Going forward there will be a flat rate based on the costs for the minimum number of people who go. If you get more, they all pay that rate.

■ Per Diem is $35. $150 higher cost for non members. No committee member discount. Leaders get 100 percent of the outing reimbursed. Assistants should get 50 percent.

■ Bob moves to approve the Outings Committee approval to revamp the fee structure, Chris seconded. None opposed or abstaining. Motion passes.

SEARCH COMMITTEE

■ March 31 is the deadline. The committee will review the cover letters and resumes to get down to approximately 8–10 candidates. There will be 30-minute initial calls in April. From there we will have Round 2 interviews with the entire team, approximately 90 minutes. Round 3 will be in person with the entire board; aiming for final decision by the end of May. The final candidates will have background checks.

MT. HOOD PERMITTING

■ Talked to the Mt. Hood ranger, reviewed other organization comments, reviewed Access Committee notes, reviewed other permits, all to come up with a good proposal for the board.

■ We previously opposed the proposal to implement a permit.

■ We believe the Forest Service will pass the permit requirement—so how do we participate to shape it, despite our past opposition.

■ The proposal will be shared with our committees, board largely aligned with the position, but no vote was held.

ADVISORY COMMITTEES

■ Standing agenda item—due to running late we will not discuss tonight.

■ Capital Campaign—we need to start determining some goals and we may need to update the timeline.

NW OUTWARD BOUND

■ Partnership is moving forward. They will use the MMC this summer, 12–14 year olds. They have posted the application on their website, we link to it, we are sharing marketing cost, and they bear many of the other costs like janitorial.

■ Insurance: they provide a rider.

SECRETARY POSITION

■ Claire has asked to resign.

■ No volunteers to take on the secretary position.

■ We will rotate through minute-takers in the meantime.

APRIL 26, 2023

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Claire Tenscher, Bob Breivogel, Marty Hanson, Charles Barker, Aimee Filimoehala, Chris Jaworski; Staff: Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 7:26 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS AGENDA

■ Reports:

□ Approval of March minutes

□ Executive Director’s report

□ Committee reports

□ Financial report

□ Membership update

■ Updates:

□ Lodge Capital Campaign

□ Nominating

□ Glaciated Peak Society

■ Policy:

□ Sexual abuse and misconduct discussion.

■ March minutes will be available to be approved later.

■ Kaleen reported on the membership drive that starts in May. To improve participation, there will be no activation or renewal fees during this effort. She commented that Gina is reviewing our communications system to recommend improvements. The Lodge Committee is discussing operational models for the lodge. Kaleen has reviewed options for our banking service. She found Umpqua Bank can provide much better service than our current provider. She asked for a motion to approve. Claire moved we approve that selection; David seconded. Discussion—makes it a lot easier to deal with. Motion passed unanimously.

■ Liz reported December 2022 financials. This period was not budgeted due to our change to starting the fiscal year in January. Most of the loss was due to investments underperforming. Looking at Q1 cash flow is good and cash on hand meets our projections. Other Q1 reports

not available yet. Q1 report will show the new allocation formula costs for each committee.

■ Kaleen mentioned that as we apply for grants we will need to supply a report of our financials. Liz showed a chart of options for reporting our finances as we transition to our financial year changing from starting in October to starting in January. Liz recommended Option 4, to start our next financial review as calendar year 2023. This will leave October 2022–December 2022 as an 'orphan' but make 2023 the basis for future comparisons. Liz made this a formal motion. Bob seconded. Motion passed unanimously.

■ Greg asked if Liz can review our restricted funds and recommend consolidation. Kaleen asked that this be done before the formal transition to the 2023 reports.

■ Greg reported on the Advisory Committee for a capital campaign for the lodge. He attended the last meeting held at the lodge. A summary of needs and a timeline could be presented to the board next month.

■ Claire reported that the nominating advisory group has rescheduled its meeting and will report next month.

■ Greg reported that we currently do not have a policy on sexual abuse or misconduct. Kaleen reported that our insurance providers require we have one. Bob asked if it could be added to our volunteer agreement. Kaleen reported that all volunteers and leaders need to sign it. Add a badge as proof of acknowledgment. Kaleen was surprised we didn’t already have this policy. Mechanics of making policy formal and getting signatures is needed to proceed. Liz motioned we establish a sexual harassment policy and get member's signatures. Aimee seconded the motion. This was passed unanimously.

■ At closing of the meeting Greg mentioned that the State Parks is asking for comments on proposed changes for Smith Rock until May 15. Bob asked if the Conservation Committee could make a statement for the Mazama position. Aimee said she will follow up on that.

■ Greg adjourned the meeting at 8:22 p.m.

Left: The mosquito. Comic by Penny Roundbottom

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

April 26, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Sohaib Haider, Mark Mott, Assistant Leaders. Chris Boyle, Andrew Conley, Ian FitzGerald, Tommy Goodson, Avery Hashbarger.

April 27, 2023–Rooster Rock, South Face. Duncan Hart, Lisa Ripps, Leaders; Thomas Clarke, Assistant Leader. Mark Federman, Shannon Grey, Sydney Yelton.

April 29, 2023–Rooster Rock, South Face. Christine Troy, Toby Contreras, Leaders. Mike Quigley, Colleen Rawson, Tyler Sievers, Carrie Spates.

May 1, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Eric Branich, Leader; Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Assistant Leader. Kyle Brown, Leah Brown, Conrad Cartmell, Janelle Klaser, Kevin Kohberger, Alex Kunsevich, Kristie Mitchell, Richard Smith.

May 7, 2023–Rooster Rock, South Face. James Jula, Leader; Evan Smith, Assistant Leader. Mari Feher, Megan Lien, Cole Parnell, Michael Smith, Frank Squeglia, Kelsey Sullivan.

May 10, 2023–Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir. Darren Ferris, Leader; Ryan Reed, Assistant Leader. Rob Sinnott, Brian Hodakievic, Chris Boyle, Gordon Wilde, Mark Stave.

May 11, 2023–Mt. Hood, North Face. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Jonny Cushing, Ben Hoselton, Sam Wanzenried.

May 11, 2023–Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Terry Sayre, Assistant Leader. Austin Johnson, Kathy Kim, Bill Lowder, Melanie Means, David Posada, Elizabeth Reed, Sharon Selvaggio, Tanvi Singh, Amanda Thomas, Midori Watanabe.

May 12, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Aimee Filimoehala, Leader; Darren Ferris, Assistant Leader. Patricia Akers, Peter Boag, David Gross, Courtney Ianello, Evan McDowell, Melanie Potter, Evan Smith.

May 12, 2023–Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Justin Colquhoun, Duncan Hart, Leaders. Saad Ahmed, Shannon Grey, Truth Johnston, Walker Pruett, Jonathan Shaver.

May 13, 2023–Rooster Rock, South Face. Gary Bishop, Leader; Christin Ritscher, Assistant Leader. Bashar Al-Rawi, Antonio Bezerra, Eleanor Bold, Dennis Falcione, Gregory Fernandez, Jeremy Luedtke, Leah Madoff, Colin Miletich, Yaadhav Raaj, Cierra Santiago, William Withington.

May 14, 2023–Mt. Ellinor, Southeast Chute. Trey Schutrumpf, Leader; Lindsey Addison, Assistant Leader. Erik Anderson, Eleanor Bold, Casey Ferguson, Kelly O’Loughlin, Saraja Samant, Mark Santa Maria.

May 18, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Mark Mott, Assistant Leader. Lyudmila Likhonina, Elizabeth Reed, Whitney Harvey, Douglas Filiak, Matt Mudrow, Farzane Zokaee, Saraja Samant, Cait Lotspeich, Jenica Villamor, Brandon Ziemba.

May 20, 2023–Mt. Ellinor, Southeast Chute. Joe Preston, Leader; Andy Nuttbrock, Jen Travers, Midori Watanabe, Assistant Leaders. Nathan Loomis, Emily McEntire, Nicholas Peeters, Mike Quigley, Malcolm Reilly, Tanvi Singh, Eleasa Sokolski, Caroline Stanley.

May 21, 2023–Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Suresh Singh, Leader; Mark Stave, Assistant Leader. Conrad Cartmell, Chris Conley, Sangram More, Bikash Padhi, Dan Rehmann, Tuller Schricker, Allison Wright, Mallory Zunino.

May 24, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Suresh Singh, Leader; Nimesh Patel, Assistant Leader. Eric Engstrom, Jorge Lopez, Cassie Mapolski, Sangram More, Steven Peterson, John Sullenbarger.

May 25, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Tim Scott, Leader; Sohaib Haider, Assistant Leader. Saad Ahmed, Paul Anderson, Mark Federman, Joshua Gerth, Mark Pothier, Samuel Rundel, Emmet Smith, Amanda Thomas, Midori Watanabe, Matt Wiens.

May 26, 2023–Mt. Hood, South Side. Gary Bishop, Leader; Evan Smith, Assistant Leader. Chelsea Ashcraft, Nicholas Dagenais, Chris Reigeluth, Jonathan Shaver, Merche Trol, Ngan Vo.

May 27, 2023–Mt. Ellinor, Southeast Chute. Christine Troy, Leader; Melanie Potter, Assistant Leader. Lydia Alderfer, Casey Ferguson, Elizabeth Hill, Benji Patel, Colleen Rawson, Steph Reinwald, Angela Schaefer, Carrie Spates.

May 27, 2023–Rooster Rock, South Face. Tom Baughman, Leader; Andy Nuttbrock, Assistant Leader. Jeevitha Babu, Conrad Cartmell, Matt Cleinman, Robert Erickson, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Steven Peterson, Mark Pothier, Ariana Ramirez, Caroline Stanley, Ann Woodruff.

May 28, 2023–Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur Mentorship Climb. Matthew Sundling, Leader. Peter Boag, Rachel Faulkner, Janelle Klaser, Forest Menke-Thielman, Stacey Reding, Christin Ritscher, Jen Travers.

May 28, 2023–Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct. Ryan Johnson, Leader; Rebecca Moore, Assistant Leader. Kyle Branderhorst, Wendy Leone, Anna Lio, Walker McAninch-Runzi, Mark Stave.

May 28, 2023–Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Thomas Miller, Leader; Ian Beil, Assistant Leader. Ashlin Aronin, Maxwell Douglas, Whitney Harvey, Alex Homer, Austin Johnson, Dani Larson, Margaret Munroe, Michael Smith, Emmet Smith, Arjun Sudhir.

May 29, 2023–Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Carol Bryan, Leader; Lynne Pedersen, Assistant Leader. Christopher Boswell, Matthew Gantz, Nicolas Martinez.

MEMBERS OF THE GLACIATED PEAK SOCIETY

All dues-paying Mazamas prior to our Jan. 31, 2023 bylaws amendments have been automatically inducted into the Glaciated Peak Society (GPS). All other members who successfully summit a glaciated peak after that date will automatically become GPS members when they receive their glaciated peak badge. No further action is required. GPS members will be recognized in each bimonthly bulletin, similar to the acknowledgment of climbs in general listed in each issue of the magazine. Below is a list of all the inducted members as of January 31, 2023.

Sherry Aanerud

Wim Aarts

Jim Abbott

Ryan Abbott

Amit Abraham

Courtney Adams

Linda Adamson

Lindsey Addison

Yukti Aggarwal

Alex Aguilar

Agreen Ahmadi

Saad Ahmed

Patrick Aitchison

Urusa Shahriar Alaan

Juan Bernardo

Albaitero Rosales

Katrina Albano

Steven Albert

Shavali Alisher

Louise Allen

Peter Allen

Greg Allen

Stacy Allison

Craig Allison

Sonja Alonso

Kathryn Alsworth

David Alt

Patricia Always

Wanda Amodeo

William Amos

Jack Amoss

Elizabeth An

Anton Andereggen

Jessica Anderly

Jerry Andersen

Meiling Andersen

Danielle Anderson

Edward Anderson

David Anderson

Dennis Anderson

Kelly Fagan Anderson

Peggy Anderson

Craig Anderson

Paul Anderson

Erik Anderson

Christopher Anderson

Joe Anderson

David Andrews

John Andrews

Justin Andrews

Dave Ankrom

David Fernando Antezana

Alicia Antoinette

George

Apostolopoulos

Charles Applegate

Jesse Applegate

Andrew Archambault

Marilyn Arentz

Carol Armatis

Philip Arms

Suzanne Armstrong

Genevieve Arnaut

Natalie Arndt

Riley Arner

Jerry Arnold

Brian Arthur

Kamilla Aslami

Aardra Athalye

Lloyd Athearn

Scott Auble

Chuck Aude

Mitchel Auerbach

Jay Avery

Daniel Avery

Alice Awwad

Henry Axon

Laura Axon

Eloise Bacher

Ed Bacon

Bruce Bagley

Jesse Bahr

Phillip Baird

Kipp Bajaj

Joshua Robert Baker

Judith Baker

Parker Baldwin

Buz Baldwin

Barbara Balko

Gretchen Baller

Gary Ballou

Isabel Banks

Casey Banks

Tom Bard

Richard Barden

Vilmos Barka

Betty Barker

Louis Barker

Ken Barker

Chloe Barker

Oscar Barker

Charles Barker

Susan Barker

Harry Barker-Fost

Eric Barklis

Dave Barlow

Ryan Barnes

Brian Barnes

Michele Scherer

Barnett

Jonathan Barrett

John Bartholomew

John Barton

Paul Bascom

Mary Bates

Don Batten

Paul Battram

John Bauer

Bill Bauer

Mark Bauer

Tom Baughman

David Baumgarten

Scott Bauska

Tyler Bax

Laura Bax

Dave Beardsley

Calvin Beardsley

Carole Beauclerk

Kellie Beck

Larry Beck

Maureen Becker

Anna Becker

Liam Beckman

Kaitlyn Beecroft

Paula Beers

Andrew Behr

Christabel Behr

Ian Beil

Luke Belant

Allison Belcher

Stephan Belding

Ron Bell

Cheryl Bell

Marcum Bell

Sarah Bellamy

Elizabeth Belles

Ray Belt

Ken Bender

Lindsey Benjamin

Suzi Bennett

Thomas Bennett

Julie Bennett

Lori Bennis

Bill Bens

Steven Benson

Owen Bentley

Nancy Bentley

Walt Benz

Max Berezhnyy

Erwin Bergman

Jennifer Bergstrom

Bonnie Berneck

Mary Bernert

Bert Berney

Heather Bervid

Mark Beyer

Erin Beyer

Gary Beyl

Jeremiah Biddle

Ken Biehler

Anita Bieker

James Bily

Richard Binder

Jim Bingaman

Gina Binole

Thomas Bischoff

Gary Bishop

Elizabeth Bishop

John Bishop

Pam Bishop

Harold Black

Andrew Black

Richard Blackwell

Aaron Blake

Bruce Blank

Charles Blanke

Janet Blanke

Matt Blecharz

Jonathan Block

Walter Blomberg

James Bloom

Blake Bluestein

Arlene Blum

Anna Blumenkron

Peter Boag

Thomas Bode

Andrew Bodien

Pam Bodine

Janos Bodnar

Stewart Boedecker

Ryan Boger

Jack Bohl

Mark Bohr

Robert Boileau

Eleanor Bold

Myde Boles

Tyler Bolton

Barbara Bond

Alyssa Bonini

Candace Bonner

Emily Bonner

Maryn Bonniwell

John Borden

Mike Borden

Edna Borders

Oliver Borg

John Borsuk

Jeffrey Boskind

Brookes Boswell

Nick Boswell

Christopher Boswell

Aurelien Botman

Cambell Boucher

Sherry Bourdin

Melanie Bower

Mitchell Bower

Janet Bowker

Bill Bowling

Sydney Bowman

Brian Boyd

Steve Boyer

Chris Boyle

Phillip Bradford

Judith Bradshaw

Justin Brady

Barbara Brady

Lisa Brady

David Braem

Eric Brainich

Erik Brakstad

Elizabeth Brammer

Elly Branch

Kyle Branderhorst

Kevin Brannan

Charles Brasher

Aaron Braun

Jason Breaker

Paul Breed

Bob Breivogel

Terry Brenneman

Lacey Breton

Allan Brettman

Rex Breunsbach

Thomas Brewer

James Brewer

David Brezinski

Lisa Brice

Susan Brickey

Tyler Bridge

Douglas Briedwell

continued on next page

Donald Wright

Joanne Wright

Colleen Wright

Harry Wright

Cameron Wright

Jeffrey Wright

Thomas Wrona

Andreas Wunderle

Sharon Wynde

Michelle Wynkoop

Marina Wynton

Hattie Yamada

Stacy Yamasaki

Louise Yarbrough

Bruce Yatvin

Alice Yetka (Byrnes)

Elizabeth Yingling

Leslee York

Gretchen Yost

Jason Young

Clarke Young

Logan Young

Cam Young

Kirby David Young

Stephen Zadrozny

Katie Zajicek

Aaron Zarosinski

Joey Zarosinski

Michael Zasadzien

Daniel Zawistowski

Donald Zeck

Rick Zeeb

Nate Zeiler

Margaret Zeps

David Zeps

Astrid Zervas

Xin Zhang

Jon Ziady

Brandon Gregory Ziemba

Marilyn Zigler

Roberta Zouain

Joan Zuber

Ryan Zubieta

Carol Zuiches

Linda Zumwalt

The following new Mamama members have joined the Glaciated Peak Society since February 1, 2023.

Hilliary Alway

Jordan Alway

Laken Aubrey Bell

Ryan Bradley

Patrick Arthur Brandimore

Chris Jay Burreson

Brian Campos

Chris Conley

Andrew Conley

Kapil Dave

Jack Davidson

Rob Dietz

Winnie Dong

Maximilian Eline

Cecilia Estraviz

Amanda Ettaki

COLOPHON

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center

527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m.

Mazama Lodge

30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028

Phone: 503-272-9214

mazamalodge@mazamas.org

Hours: Closed

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Ben Fleskes

Brayden Goodlin

Brookelynn Goodlin

Jacob Wolfgang Haag

Chris Hagerman

William Hallgren

Michael Honsa

Conor Jackman

Victoria Johnson

Sydney Johnson

Brad Jordan

Joseph Kealy

Jorge Lopez

Leah Madoff

Cassie Mapolski

Kate McCarn

Tim Minks

Hank Mishima

Matt Mudrow

Abigail Parrott

Kellie Peaslee

Theo Pham

Walker Pruett

Claire Richards

George Rodway

Ben Scandella

Daniel Scott

Tom Scott

Justin Sorensen

John Sullenbarger

Kevin Thrakulchavee

Jonathan Watkins

Members: Peter Boag, Elise Englert, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, Jen Travers, and Claire Tenscher (publications@ mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

GINA BINOLE Office & Communications Coordinator ginabinole@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK

Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

REBEKAH PHILLIPS Executive Director rebekahphillips@mazamas.org

BRENDAN SCANLAN

Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Larry Solomon, Ellie Crocker and Alec Studier on Dalles Mountian. Photo by Bob Breivogel.