Volume 37, No. 01
January 22, 2016
La
Papillote K-Cup Culture
Let the Pulses Begin
BY: Cindy Yuong, AOS Baking & Pastry
Food trends are ever-evolving and this year, and it seems that this year’s trend is pulses. The Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations has named 2016 the International Year of Pulses. Pulses are part of the legume family as dried seeds, including varieties of edible beans, dried peas, chickpeas and lentils. The FAO’s focus this year is on spreading the use of pulses in food and farms with the slogan, ‘Nutritious seeds for a sustainable future.’ Pulses are both highly nutritious and critical for sustainable agriculture, a significant contribution to food security. They are a valuable plant-based protein source high in fiber, low in fat, and with no cholesterol or gluten. Pulses provide many micronutrients, B vitamins, and several minerals. These dried legumes are an extremely versatile nutrition source. Pulse production is also extremely environmentally friendly. It requires significantly less water usage than other protein sources; it takes ten times as much water to produce a kilogram Continued on Pg. 5
Market in Makalle, Tigray, Ethiopia
2016 Presidential Election Preview
It’s 2016, and thus time for the next leader of the free world to be selected through the democratic process. It’s a process that many find tedious, futile, and even irrelevant to their lives directly. However, this election is what many are calling the most important election of our lifetime. This is because candidates of opposing parties don’t just differ on what the solutions are to problems in America today, they can’t even agree on what those problems are fundamentally. If you were to ask a democrat, they may tell you that wealth inequality, systemic racism, and a frozen political climate are the largest threats to the American way of life; however, if you were to ask a republican, they may argue that the erosion of traditional American values, illegal immigration, and government policies infringing on our personal freedoms (i.e. second amendment) are the true threats. The fact is, our government has stopped acting as an arm of the people, for the people, by the people. It has started to act in its own self interest, preserving the status quo that has been settled upon by the public and private sectors.
P3
“Politics”
“Sustainability”
Inglorious Fruits & Vegetables, No More Noro, Generation of the Informed, Chef & Farmer
That’s why this election isn’t really about republican vs. democrat, but about establishment vs. anti-establishment candidates. The two “surprise” candidates of the election thus far have been, without question, Senator Bernie Sanders and Donald Trump, both of whom are uncompromising outsiders of a Washington establishment. Bernie, a man who has been consistent with his democratic socialist message and rhetoric for his entire political career, has upset
Presidential Canadate; Donald Trump (R)
Papillote
the aforementioned status quo by looking to the American people and workers’ unions to fund his campaign and to fuel what he refers to as a political revolution. Trump, a man who is not beholden to any lobbies or existing political groups, has funded his campaign himself, and is able to say whatever he wants without needing to worry that he’s stepping on the toes of somebody trying to help him get in office. These candidates have used their unique freedom to steer the conversation of both parties into their preferred directions and have brought a number of topics to the forefront of the national discussion. Meanwhile there’s Hilary Clinton’s campaign, which has steadily remained the favorite for the democratic nomination even in the face of Senator Sander’s surge in popularity. Although she and Sanders agree on many issues, differing only in how extreme their leftism is, Hilary is very much viewed by the public as “more of the same.” She is effectively an extension of the Obama administration and its policies. Hilary’s greatest strengths are her public recognition, her wealth of experience, and her foreign policy chops. That said, many of the voting public don’t view her as trustworthy. They believe that due to her Cont’d on Pg. 3
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SGA Update, Coverage on 2016 Presidential Candidates
I can remember the first time I ever encountered a k-cup style coffee machine. My dad had just run a 10K, which afforded me the pleasure of checking out all the snack and merchandise tables that had been set up past the finish line. The mostly obscure Keurig Company had a table set up offering free coffee at the touch of a button. Growing up in a coffee-drinking family, this sleek, quick, machine caught my interest. I even tried to talk my dad into buying one. He rejected the idea, however. We had a perfectly good coffee maker on the counter at home. Fast forward to 2016 and it is hard to avoid these machines. They are everywhere. They are given as thoughtless gifts like boom boxes were gifted in the 90s. Every large coffee company has some parallel version of the original Keurig model in attempts of getting a share of the market. They are in dorms and offices all across America. As for me, I am now a full-fledged coffee snob who would not be caught dead with one of them. I will reveal my bias now and confess that I absolutely despise this approach to coffee, one of my biggest passions. And, I promise you do not have to love coffee as much as I do to understand the downsides of this java phenomenon. For me, the pod-style coffee makers illuminate one of humanities biggest weaknesses. We, as a species, will always sell out for convenience despite an arsenal of reasons suggesting convenience might be detrimental to us in the long run. Just look at the fast food industry, conventional farming techniques, and the dominance of one-stop-shops. All of these illustrate our thirst for an easier life. After modifying our environment in order to escape the constant fight for survival that all other life forms on this planet endure, our species is constantly seeking to make our lives even more placid. Continued on Pg. 7
photo courtesy GLOBAL PULSE CONFEDERATION
BY: Nichloas McCall, AOS Culinary
BY: Tristan Heath, AOS Culinary
CENTER SPREAD P 4-5
“Features”
Bluefin Bargin, Murder, Money, & Munchies, K-Cup Culture
“Entertainment”
P 8-9
Campus Newsletter, Comics & Puzzles
P 6-7
P 12
“Interview” With Ted Allen
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
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January 22, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Nicolas McCall Matthew Stocker Sarah Lubitz Evan Chailastri Kevin Markey Maddy Morrison Patty Dennison Cindy Yuong
From the Editor’s Desk
Tristan Heath Francesca Zani Crystal Tan Jeff Levine Hanna Krilov Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
January 22, 2016
Fellow Students,
From 2011 to 2015 I worked in kitchens as I worked on my degree in Political Science, while living back in my hometown. It took many different events to lead me to eventually come to school one year ago this month, but I have never been more sure of any decision in my life. Last year was good to me. I had the opportunity to travel to Milan to the World Fair on behalf of the CIA, I too many people to list that are in the same place as me all interested in the same thing; food. I had the honor of representing AOS students in the SGA and in October I was hired as the Editor of La Papillote, a position that brings me many hours of stress and joy in one whirlwind of emotion. I can only hope that 2016 is as good a year for us as 2015 was for me. I know that comes off as conceited, but it is not meant so in the slightest. I truly hope that this year is good for everyone, and bad for no one. Impossible you say? I disagree. If you have been following the paper recently you will have noticed a somewhat reoccurring theme; revolving around sustainability. There is still much more to be discussed in this area, and we here at La Papillote take it upon ourselves to facilitate this discussion. I cannot emphasize enough; my mission is to encourage the debate among the student body on how we as an industry will tackle these issues in the future. It is my genuine hope that we can come together as one based on that we are in this together, that we make up the future of an industry that will soon, more than ever, be looked upon to feed the world. We can and will disagree on how to do this. That is natural, and I encourage it. But, disagreeing on how to make change is not the same as disagreeing on whether or not change is necessary. Open your eyes, minds, and hearts and you will see that changing the food systems that are currently in place is of the utmost importance. I look forward to many a spirited debate on this issue and many more in 2016. Slaínte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Marlkey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
Nichloas McCall Deputy Editor
Sarah Lubitz Senior Copy Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies:
Cindy Yuong Social Media Editor
Cameron Cavida Photographer
Matthew Stocker Director of Campus Outreach
Jr. Copy Editor: Mary Merkel
Claudia Hansen Sports Correspondent
Director of Advertising: Matthew Stocker Political Correspondent: Evan Chialastri
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Title IX and Age Discrimination
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Office: Roth Hall Room S324
Office: Roth Hall Room S351
Telephone: 845-451-1314
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Puzzle Editor: Hanna Krilov
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January 22, 2016
New Year, New SGA, New Changes?
BY: Evan Chailastri, AOS Culinary As we ring in the New Year with various resolutions and hopes for change regarding ourselves and the world we live in, be sure to pay attention to campus life here at The CIA. The CIA is an ever changing place, various new policies are introduced every day and it would seem that without knowing any better, it would be particularly easy to fall behind on very important happenings here on campus. To stay informed, I strongly urge everyone to turn to the Student Government Association’s open forums. Without proper information we stumble through life uninformed, and some might argue ignorant. So let us please leave the ignorance back in 2015. In order to properly keep informed in the New Year, I spoke to SGA Advisor Matt Ivins about some changes that we can hope to look forward to. To begin I’ll let him brief you on what exactly being an Advisor to the SGA consists of. “The SGA workshops are really where I am most involved to really help them work out any issues like who the appropriate person to speak to about an issue is, being an administrator I can help guide that process. When clubs come in and have funding requests, that’s really one of the main areas of focus for SGA, I give them guidance on that as well. Short answer is I’m basically there to help with whatever they need.” After getting past formalities, I dove into what the SGA was planning for the New Year. His response was that they hope to be “following up on the Student Dining Advisory Committee, working on meal points and voicing student feedback on the pricing and the choices for meals. One thing you may notice is the salad bar. That’s Continuation of 2016 Pres. Election history of changing on social issues such as gay marriage, her email scandal that is considered by many to be an enormous national security gaffe, and the fact that she takes enormous amounts of financial support from big banks and wall street, make her unattractive as a candidate. This is of course, in stark contrast to the message and political history of Senator Sanders, who’s entire campaign hangs on his authenticity. The Republican nomination has seen an unprecedented number of candidates, and they have all traded position several times, using their time in debates and in interviews to conduct personal attacks on each other, a conduct criti-
Junior Senator from Texas; Ted Cruz (R)
cized by the media as distracting and unfocused when they should be discussing the issues that they claim to be so passionate about. They favor personal attacks and boastful promises without substance, and their party, and voters, are taking notice. Dr. Ben Carson was considered a frontrunner earlier last year, but was quickly eschewed from the top of the polls by attacks from other candidates and the media calling him out on his flagrant dishonesty about his
Politics
largely due to SGA involvement within that committee. Also another key thing is food allergies. Not only seeing how the campus can adjust to the growing industry topic of food allergies, but also due to the need of students with allergies and providing comfort in the fact that they can eat somewhere on campus knowing they won’t suffer an allergic reaction. Other than that we’ll continue with club funding as well as student life and trying to make it as vibrant as possible.” He went on to tell me that any upcoming changes among campus life put in place by SGA are the will of the students. That is why it is so important to turn up to these SGA open forums. To make your voice heard. Without showing up to these events, the SGA can’t change anything. Without your will defined, your agendas and necessities fall by the way side. Voice your opinion, always. Make the SGA fight for you as they should. When asked about what he hopes to see SGA do, Advisor Ivins said, “My strong belief is that SGA can make an impact on the wellness of our students, via the Student Life Enhancement committee. SGA could be leaders not just as advisors but as community leaders in the sense that they can get out on campus and host campus community events to bring in all the diversity and highlight all the vibrancy our student body is comprised of. An event where students can take a break and free their minds a bit. I would also hope that SGA works on ways to get more consistent and accurate feedback from the students. Really finding out a way to get the best pulse of the students outside of just the public forum. It’s not about SGA’s agenda, but it’s the student’s agenda.” He went on to try and spur more involvement and attendance of students at the open forums, “You should be informed about what is
happening on campus, and the SGA open forum is the perfect place to do that. If you really want to be in the know about meal plans or food allergy committee, or let’s say food waste, the open forum is an opportunity to discover and talk about these things under the premise of change.” With that closing remark we parted ways. He left me feeling confident in him as the Advisor for SGA. He seems overly capable to handle any change the new year brings in. This, leads me to SGA itself. Two weeks ago I tried to get in touch with SGA President Caleb Kimble, inquiring about setting up an interview to get his take on the agenda of the new year. After an email and multiple persons approaching him on my behalf, he is yet to return my correspondence. I hope this doesn’t mirror his devotion to the students as I would have loved to be able to speak to the person that is supposed to be responsible for voicing our opinions to the administration. Do not misunderstand me, SGA as a whole, is constantly working to better our campus, community, and our way of life. Keep in mind it is not easy representing a student body who doesn’t voice their opinions. It is one thing to complain in the gazebo about all the ‘bovine feces’ you have to wade through here, but it is another issue altogether to bring your ideas and concerns to an organized public forum and voice your opinion constructively and professionally. To close out the article I would like to urge all of you reading this to please attend SGA Open Forums. Make your voice heard, regardless of what ears the words fall on. All you can do is try to better the environment we are all living in here at The Culinary Institute of America.
past endeavors in his personal anecdotes and in his written memoir, which detailed a meeting with generals at military school that never took place, as well as a violent portrayal of his childhood that those who knew him have described as false. Ted Cruz has been described as the most hated man in Washington, but still manages to creep up in the polls slowly but surely, now challenging Trump in debates for Alpha conservative status. This is all very interesting if you follow politics, but what does it mean for our industry? Well, one of the main issues outlined throughout both parties throughout the race has been the minimum wage, which many republicans want to do away with altogether, but democratic hopefuls wish to raise (to heights varying from twelve to fifteen dollars an hour). This of course would make it more expensive to pay your staff if you were to own a restaurant, affecting how many waiter positions are available, and the price of the food sold. One could argue that the minimum wage raise would either destroy the industry, or on the other hand it may be a desperately needed shift in the values and practices of restaurant management, and is in keeping with the current movement to pay waiters higher wages in exchange for eliminating tips entirely. Another issue relevant to the food industry is immigration reform. It is no secret that the backbone of many prep kitchens throughout the US is built on Central American immigrants, both illegal and legal. Immigration reform as the republicans would have it would see many of those immigrants deported or put under heavy scrutiny, complicating the hiring process for many new restaurants that are just getting started, and ultimately could cause many of them to close before they can reach the coveted two-year benchmark that is so crucial to the longevity of a new eat-
ery. Either more US natives will have to want jobs as prep cooks, or we will soon have a great shortage of them. Finally, the democratic side has promised to get big business and big money out of politics and policy formation, which would mean that large food corporations such as Tyson or Monsanto will eventually be forced to reckon with higher regulations and food safety measures placed on their products, and hopefully public policy will no longer be written in the best interest of such large corporations but instead will be written only with thoughts of the public good. Farmers wont be sued by Monsanto for saving seeds with such impunity and disregard for the agrarian economy. This will in the long term, change the way that food is produced and priced at market, affecting how you will buy product in your future venture. All of these candidates have stances on a number of policies that will effect all of you directly. This election is important, and though I usually refrain from putting my own first person voice in these articles, I will break that rule this once to urge you, please, to become educated on the process. Learn what you can about the issues, figure out which ones matter to you, and use the power promised to you by our forefathers to cast your vote on how they should be handled. Though American politics have been disheartening in recent memory, it is possible to affect real
Former Sec. of State; Hillary Clinton (D)
Junior Senator from Vermont; Bernie Sanders (D)
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change and to steer this great country into a direction you, and your future business can be comfortable with. Talk to your peers and have real discussion about the things you care about, and when somebody says “I just have never been that interested in politics” try to illustrate to them that they actually are and they just don’t know it. Because public policy effects almost all of the things that we care about, especially in this industry. Figuring out which candidate has your best interests at heart isn’t just your right, but your responsibility as a future leader of the food industry. Change starts with you.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
No More Noro BY: Matthew Stocker, AOS Culinary
As temperatures drop at the CIA, all of us students cover ourselves in blankets and pretend like winter does not exist. We drink tea and hot chocolate, watch Netflix while wearing three layers, and laugh as the southern students dress like Ralphie’s little brother from “A Christmas Story.” One problem many students forget about during winter is norovirus. Anyone who was here last year understands the struggle of a campus with Noro, and the sanctions that come along with the situation. Even though all of us students have taken Food Safety, or are in the process, we need to take
Commonly recognized Chipotle signage.
norovirus seriously. Let us talk about the basics of norovirus: Norovirus is contagious virus that spreads like wildfire. The virus shows a few symptoms after being in your system for twelve to fourteen hours, according to the Center of Disease Control and Prevention. The two major symptoms are vomiting and diarrhea, along with nausea and stomach pain. To be blunt, this virus can be a little messy,
claiming its stay on a campus. Once someone is infected, they can transmit the virus through their vomit or stool. The simplest way to combat this virus is to wash your hands. If that line of defense does not work, anything and everyone the carrier touches has a chance of being infected. After that, the domino effect takes full control of an area. Given the quickness of spreading, any of those symptoms, especially more than one at a time, should be taken seriously, and medical examination should be a priority. Every one of us can help stop the potential spread of norovirus and other viruses on campus. The number one step would be to wash our hands. In the food industry,
photo courtesy www.rctom.hbs.org
we hear this a lot. This is because people still do not partake in what should be a regular routine. After you use the bathroom, or cough in your hands, please, wash your hands. When you are cooking for other students, keep in mind the glove and health standards you were taught. Norovirus can spread through water, arguably the most used ingredient in a kitchen. Next time you are making a large amount of food that will be served to students,
Generation of the Informed
BY: Kevin Markey, Editor-in-Chief
How will our generation be remembered? Forget about our children, and their children, and their children. What will be scrawled on the pages of history books (if there are books) in 2500? Howard Zinn said ‘writing history is a privilege bestowed upon the winners of wars’. But what happens if the next war isn’t on a battle field, but rather in the fields of corn, soy, and rice around the world. And, there is no winner, only empty hands, mouths, and bellies? In the 17th and 18th centuries the fight was for gold. Men traveled thousands of miles for many years, and more often than not gave their life, all in search of a metal. In the 19th century the fight was for tea and tobacco. Pleasantries, that mostly only the well-off could afford to enjoy on a daily basis. Entire wars were fought, hundreds of thousands of men and women perished, and even countries were born, solely for the right to represent themselves under their own
tea tariffs. The 20th and 21st centuries we have fought over resources as well; the planet’s liquid that fuels us. From transportation to the plastic we put our water in, oil has sparked a wild fire that may not be contained for the next hundred years. Looking back at the last five centuries, is it not possible to discern that the resources that this great planet gives us, may actually be worth fighting for? But something has changed. Something is different about this generation, something almost impalpable. This generation, that for the first time in the history of the world, has literally a ‘googol’ the times information, not only available to us, but available in the palm of our hands. It has fallen upon us, to use this information to create positive changes. Changes that will ensure that the next fight for our planets resources, isn’t paid for with the lives of our children. According to The American Heart Association, we are the first generation in a millennia that is expected to have a lower life expectancy than our parents. But, that is only if we don’t make a change now. It is possible for this ‘generation of the informed’ to take the fight to; the classroom, the Internet, the streets, and dare I say; the profit margins of the corporations that control the resources? I’m referring to how our food will be grown, distributed, allocated, priced, and prepared, for the next century. Without monumental changes to the paradigm that currently surrounds food, we as a species are destined to repeat the past. What will it take for our generation to take up ‘arms’ to over throw the system that has us shackled with cheap chains of fast food? Can we come to the realization that we can change it before it’s too late? Before obesity, diabetes, world hunger and starving children aren’t just one third of the world but are half or 2/3’s…or 99%. I realize change is not an easy thing to pursue. It is the hard road, and often it is much easier to follow rather than lead. I am not purposing that all of us discontinue our habits that have broken the system. I am simply making the argument that by slowing the amount that we partake in these habits will ultimately lead to the changing of them. I pose these questions to you, the student body of this premiere culinary college. To the future leaders of the food industry I ask you, will you be willing to fight for what is right when the time comes? Lets us be the ones that truly make change, let us be the ones to stray from the path of those before us and welcome in a new generation of food security.
make sure your hands are clean before doing so. One drop of infected water can lead to twenty students getting sick. It is every student’s responsibility to fight Norovirus, and we can do it together. If you are getting a drink from any dispensaries around campus, do not let the rim of your bottle touch the mechanism that is dispensing the water; make sure there is at least an inch between the your bottle, and the exit of the liquid. To be on the extra cautious side, have hand sanitizer on you and use it before and after class. This all may sound extreme, but it is nothing compared to getting sick with norovirus, or having to live on a campus with an outbreak. With a bigger picture in mind, we can look at norovirus on a larger scale. Chipotle recently found itself in trouble for an outbreak of norovirus. Boston College has reported ninty-one cases of norovirus from students that ate at Chipotle and then thirty to forty more cases from those who had contact with those students. There is a lot of speculation to how the norovirus started there, and there is even a lawsuit over it. Like a good team leader, Steve Ells, the founder of Chipotle, is having all of the restaurants on February 8th close to discuss safety concerns. Ells has currently found himself in a tight spot between giving consumers what they want, and having fresh, sustainable food. As he is a CIA alum, I hope Ells is able to show that all of his operations did all they could to prevent the illness form happening. He has set a precedent for pleasing his demand with “vegetables grown in healthy soil” and with “pigs allowed to freely root and roam outdoors or in deeply bedded barns,” as the Chipotle website states. The bottom line remains the same: when we work in kitchens, we need to stay clean.
The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111
January 22, 2016
Inglorious Fruits & Vegetables BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary
All across the globe, farmers and companies are throwing away tons of produce. Some farms reuse the food for compost or animal feed, but many are just letting the food go to waste in landfills. Specifically in the European Union, approximately 200 billion pounds of food is wasted annually, compared to the 133 billion pounds that North America wastes. If nothing is done, food waste could rise to over 120 million tons by 2020 in the European Union. These staggering numbers have sparked the start of many different campaigns. For example the Belgian NGO umbrella organization, 11.11.11, started a campaign called “Sorry Is Not Enough.” They have taken notice of the impoverished southern region of Europe and have taken the liberty to “take action.” One in eight people suffer from hunger, and food waste represents a waste of scarce resources. Belgian organizations have deemed this fact unacceptable, and have decided that, “Just saying sorry is not enough.” The European Union declared 2014 to be the “Year
Inglorious Eggplant.
photo courtesy Intermarche
Against Food Waste,” and around the beginning of 2015, Intermarché, a popular food chain that is, in fact, the third largest in France, started a new line of food titled “Inglorious Fruits and Vegetables.” They specifically take all the different fruits and vegetables that typically get thrown away due to a misshaped figure, which are not appealing to the perfectionist shopper. Intermarché sells these fruits and vegetables, giving the produce its own specific label, and even encourages shoppers to pick these ugly fruits that are just as nutritious since the produce is sold at a 30% discount in comparison to ordinary shaped fruits and vegetables. While this produce is being sold, customers are educated on the food waste they are preventing, essentially raising awareness to the French public. Inglorious fruits and vegetables exploded with popularity after the first two days of business, now there are five leading competitors who are also using the ugly produce that is typically thrown away. This is solving the fundamentally underlying reason for starting the inglorious fruits and vegetables initiative. Over thirty well-known publishers have written articles pertaining to inglorious fruits and vegetables, informing the European public of not only the humorous, unique new line of food, but of how it is raising awareness of food waste and teaching the public how to solve the issue, making the problem that seems to be filled with overwhelming impossibility sound very solvable. Throughout the world, there are several other companies with a similar mission statement of reducing food waste and selling “ugly produce” at a discounted rate. One of the first companies to start in America is a brand called “Imperfect,” which sells its produce out of Oakland, California, specifically in Raley’s Supermarket. By selling the unused, ugly produce that typically gets thrown away in modern day America, food waste decreases significantly as well as water waste. Of the produce grown in America, 20% is not put in stores, and for every pound of produce, about twenty-five gallons of water is wasted. Co-founder of “Imperfect,” Ben Simon, foresees a food revolution of sorts to take off in America, much like how it has with Intermarché, and other successful European businesses promoting, ugly produce. Eating ugly fruit has become more than just a fad, but rather a lifestyle for food activists. Jordan Figueiredo launched an “End Food Waste” social media campaign with the handle @UglyFruitAndVeg, and with the tagline, “all produce should be loved and eaten.” Restaurant chains
Features
like Sweetgreen use vegetable scraps to create their salad mixes. Sweetgreen has also partnered up with renowned restaurants like Blue Hill, creating wastED salads for their menu, comprising mainly of vegetable scraps. Figures like this bring awareness of food waste, and could end the widespread mistreatment of ugly fruit and vegetables, and enable us to take better care of our future.
A Chef & Farmer
BY: Patty Dennison, AOS Culinary
As I was sitting in the Egg, a man came rushing toward me, beaming, with his hands filled with dishes he had composed from all homegrown ingredients. This was the first time I had the opportunity to meet Joe Baldwin. I had called him an hour earlier to interview him over phone, but he insisted on coming over to the school to talk to me so that he could show me the nettles he had been pruning in his field. As soon as I met him, I realized the extent of his selflessness and dedication, which you could see in the dishes he had brought. Joe Baldwin grew up on a farm in Vermont. He served in the military and attended The Culinary Institute of America, graduating in 1974. He was the chef and owner of Restaurant in The Park for over 20 years until he decided to hang up the towel and go back to his roots. He had started to gain a little weight while in the restaurant industry, which is one of the reasons that was swayed Joe to return to farming. The tough hours on the field and the plant-based cuisine he was eating and growing immediately helped him to lose the weight and just feel better overall. One of Joe’s friends, Beverly Briggs, also began eating a plant-based cuisine with food grown by Joe and she has lost more than 20 pounds since beginning this new diet. Joe now has a farm that produces approximately six thousand pounds of food weekly. This is only where it begins. Joe is very involved in many organizations, including Rescuing Leftover Cuisine and his own organization Earth to Table. Earth to Table is an organization that is solely dedicated to helping others. Their mission is; “provide a way to teach the local community a way to eat healthy, that is cost effective, as well as providing healthy food to the needy,” and this in itself describes everything about Joe. He goes out of his way to help many food pantries in the summer as well as the tougher winter months. He doesn’t just give them food though; Joe realizes the importance of teaching the less fortunate how to prepare the fresh food that he is giving them. One of his close friends Beverly Briggs, even said, “he was just driving the other day and someone saw the sign on his truck and asked him about the produce, and then Joe just gave him a bag filled with fresh harvested vegetables.” Joe’s philanthropy doesn’t end here though, it continues within his family. His daughter Lauren runs a day care, and Joe goes in very often to help teach the young kids how to cook with fresh ingredients. He has also come in to Briggs’ school before, an elementary school in New Paltz, where he taught the first graders how to make vegetable soup and brought them some of his delicious dried apples. The kids have been incessantly asking about when Ms. Briggs is going to bring more of them back to the classroom because they liked them so much. Joe’s son, Rusty, is the chef and owner of a restaurant, Rusty’s, a farm fresh eatery, in New Paltz. Joe provides most of the produce to the restaurant in the summer as well as some in the winter. He also has been working with his Alma Mater, The Culinary Institute of America. The school had pounds and pounds of food left over after Thanksgiving, and Joe took the initiative and arranged to have the food donated. He used this food and donated it to more than 2,000 people in the Hudson Valley area. He is also working with the school to plant more vegetables across the campus. He is eager to get the students involved and donate the food to local food pantries or use it in the kitchens at the school if he is able to. Joe told me, “we have power and we are not going to give up,” and he shouldn’t. I ate some of the home grown dishes had made me as well as some tea, and I felt better than ever the next morning. Joe’s intentions are
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sincere and he will greatly benefiting the wellness on our campus as well as the community. Joe can’t do this by himself though; he needs our help. While the pantry is only at one location now (because it is winter), they are about to open up to about 5 different locations, and Joe needs all the help that he can get. Fortunately Joe is coming to visit the school soon on Feburary 2nd and he will give a demonstration from 10-2 in Danny Kaye Theater. Now, everyone will have a chance to get involved in Joe’s goal of making Hyde Park a sustainable area.
Earth to Table logo photo courtesy www.thegreenhousetavern.com
Continuation of ‘Let the Pulses Begin’ of beef than it does for certain dried legumes. The food wastage of pulses is much lower than other food sources, and it does not spoil quickly nor need refrigeration in order to consume. In addition, pulse particles can be used as animal feed as well as compost. They provide fertility to the soil and with their increased biodiversity and are ideal for crop rotation. With their broad diversity, pulses can spring up new varieties that are adapted to our changing climate. Pulses will play an important role in sustaining our earth and people now and further into the future. As it is now, pulses are a subsisting crop in developing countries where they are grown to be sold and consumed. Pulses are already an important nutrition source in the less developed nations with smaller farms and less of an opportunity to get other sources of protein. They do not have much choice in their diet without the technology and industry to produce other crops or cattle. If the developed world were to increase its production and consumption of pulses, the people would not only be healthier and better at sustaining the earth, but the benefit would trickle down to the impoverished. Dried legumes are already important – they are included in food stamp and nutrition programs – but their relatively low cost for a high yield help lift families out of hunger. Developed countries consume fewer pulses than developing countries, but, if they were able to bring pulses into the mainstream, they would be more widely available for everyone. In 2015, we saw the rise of vegetable-centered plates. Consumers are beginning to be aware of the health factors in eating meat and grains and opting for vegetables instead. This year, we need to bring that in further, pushing pulses to the center as a sustainable, nutritious protein source. The FAO is already calling for recipes that highlight numerous ways to use the pulses, and, as a thriving center of chefs, we should be contributing to the cause. Not only can we create wonderful dishes with these dried legumes, we can lead others in a cascading promotion of pulses to be a lasting food choice. As the IYP goes on and more support is raised, the crops being produced can be kept in continual usage. With people knowing what an excellent food source pulses are, nutrition programs will include them in food plans more, especially in helping the hungry. The costs are overwhelmingly less for pulses, in both production and trade, and we will be able to provide them to sustain the people.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Bluefin Bargain BY: Mary Merkel, AOS Culinary
In Tokyo Japan, nestled between the Sumida River and Ginza shopping district sits the Tsukiji fish market, the largest wholesale food market in the world. The outer market is for visitors, who have free access to a plethora of restaurants, grocers, and kitchen equipment carriers. A bit deeper into the exchange leads to the inner market, where 900 licensed purveyors
Bluefin tuna, placed on the endangered species list in 2012
partake in auctions and bid on everything from whale meat to sea urchins. The inner section deals with majority of the fish processing for companies. Tsukiji is assigned to move locations on November 7th, 2016 to Toyosu, Japan, and this new location will support more tourists in a cleaner environment and agree with expansion needs. In a year alone, Tsukiji handles an average of 700,000 metric tons of seafood, and while it supports Japans economy with 600 billion yen (the equivalent of 5.9 billion U.S Dollars) what other expenditures are involved? On the first trading day of the New Year, as a prelude for a beneficial year, auctioneers spare no expense. This attitude is stamped as “goshugi soba” or the “congratulatory price.” The first of January Kiyoshi Kimura, the owner of Sushi Zanmai, purchased a 441-pound Bluefin tuna, a fish on the brink of extinction. Kimura wanted “(his) customers to be happy,” at his popular restaurant chain, even though it was “ a little more expensive than expected.” The Bluefin sold for 117,000 yen about 265 dollars per pound. This is not a shocking purchase, in 2013 a Bluefin tuna sold for 1.09 million. Bluefin is prized for its rich buttery tasting belly meat, used for a sushi called “toro.” These fish are nicknamed “black gold” by fisherman, particularly in the region of Aomori, supposedly responsible for the best Bluefin. This delicacy remains to stay in the trends, a staple ingredient of Japanese sushi culture. Ignoring the fact that overfishing is now affecting all three species of the highly migratory Bluefin tuna fish in the Pacific, Southern, and Atlantic Oceans. During the 1960’s Bluefin was a main ingredient in ground cat food, sold at pennies a pound. According to The International Union for the Conservation of Nature, Bluefin fishing increased by 2,000 percent by the end of 1990’s. During this time period sushi was gaining popularity on many palates. In addition, 90 percent of all the tuna caught has not reached reproductive age, harshly affecting the next generation. All together, the species population is down by 96 percent. Today, Japan consumes 80 percent of Bluefin tuna within the market. Even Bluefin caught off the coast of Maine finds itself in Japan. There are large amounts of statistics to put the obliteration of a species into perspective. Still, with no major protection laws or quotas put into practice, the future of a top food chain fish looks incredibly dim. In 2013, the United States Federal Government proposed a petition to “red list” the Bluefin, adding it to the endangered species list. In the Eastern Pacific fishing region, ships cannot come into dock if the Bluefin catch limit is exceeded and this causes the season to end in early August. There would be a small victory if a suspension on
Bluefin Tuna fishing was practiced; however, this is very unrealistic. Unattainable, perhaps, given an international market where lots of harvesting goes unreported, with illegal catching methods, and extremely high profits. The fish’s last line of defense to lessen demand is within the consumer. Our plates reflect our decisions and our statements. There are sustainable alternatives for this fish that are just as sufficient. Be on the lookout for Bluefin substitutes like yellowtail tuna and albacore tuna, which
photo courtesy www.dw.com
is a little less sweet than yellowtail. Hawaiian Opah has a higher level of oil than salmon, and Hawaiian Ono literally translates to “good to eat.” It is more of a delicate fish, yet these make great choices. If restaurants remove themselves from this tunnel vision of Bluefin selections, and with some customer solidarity, the market demand will not rule out this tuna fish.
he was elected as one of the city supervisors in San Francisco. He worked alongside Harvey Milk, who had been the first openly gay man elected to the board of supervisors in the same city of California. Although they held their differences they were able to work together. White worked in a community that was largely against the increasing gay population, which may have led to some of his future actions. In November of 1978, White stepped down from his position as a city supervisor. He was displeased with the political life in San Francisco, and was not satisfied with making a living off the money he earned as a politician. A few weeks later he spoke with Mayor George Moscone about taking back his position as a city supervisor. Although Moscone considered this, Milk persuaded him otherwise. It was reported soon after that Moscone and Milk had been Murdered, White turning himself in immediately. Physiologists during the trial said, that at the time of the killings, White had been dealing with depression. One phycologist noted that White was always so health conscious, eating right and exercising daily, and suddenly he turned to junk food like Twinkies, stopped going to the gym, and caring less about his professional appearance. He had also left his wife during his difficult time. While he was serving a seven year sentence in prison, he was released after five years. The Twinkie Defense was brought up in White’s Trial to explain that his depression caused him to experience diminishing capacity which was the reason why he was let out of confinement sooner. It is amazing how much money corporations make off junk food (like the Twinkie) around the world. People on the go, grab McDonalds or KFC because their busy lives disallow them to cook a proper dinner. And kids persuade their parents to buy snack foods such as, Cosmic brownies because they saw their friend eat one for lunch today. Sugar is addicting and people always find ways to satisfy their sweet tooth. Junk food is terrible for you, even in moderation. They cause an array of physical and mental health issues over time. How can these junk food corporations persuade people to buy their products and make so much money? Web MD said a study in England showed a group of kids from ages 9-11, placed in front of a television watching
Murder, Money, & Munchies
BY: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary
Who ever thought junk food could lead to depression? One kind of junk food known as the Twinkie, have been a stellar snack food in America since 1930; that generations of parents and grandparents have shared with their kids and grandkids. A junk food that most people find in the section of the store that houses Little Debbie cakes and Moon Pies. Junk food is defined as any type of food that has been made with little preparation and can be bought pre packed. This food usually contains no nutrition and is made up solely of sugar and carbs such as chips, cookies, cakes, and more. Web MD notes that junk foods can be placed into two separate categories; fast food or snack foods. Because there is no source of nutrition in the so called sugary and fatty snack foods, they are poisonous to our bodies whether we want to believe it or not. Snack foods leave people feeling hungry, and not feeling full. Because of this they tend to go back for third or fourth servings, and overeat. Varieties of junk foods have been found to lower levels of tryptophan in a persons body. Tryptophan, is important in regulating levels of serotonin, which is the “feel good” hormone in our bodies. When people eat a lot of unhealthy, sugary carbohydrates, the levels of serotonin are depleted, therefore increasing the risk of depression. In the 1970’s, junk food led to a persons depression and led way to their diminishing capacity. Although this is an unusual story we hear today, it has happened in the past, and the story has made history. To think Twinkies are so cute and innocent, but relate to a murder trial. Who knew that this classic junk food could relieve someone from prison; in what we now know today as the Twinkie Defense. Dan White was a former police officer and fireman before
photo courtesy www.nutrition-az.com
food and toy commercials. It was recorded that the children consumed more food after the food commercials than the toy commercials. Food advertisements and product packaging display bright, colorful, and sharp images that tend to provoke hunger. This is a huge contributing factor to the purchase of junk food products. Its even more interesting that there is a connection between murder trials, junk food, and the amount of money that food businesses make off of them. Junk food can be good in some ways and bad in others. It has led to health issues, depression, and murder, but it has also led to the success of many corporations in the world and the source of hundreds of household incomes.
January 22, 2016
Features
Continuation of ‘K-Cup Culture’ Culturally speaking, these machines also show just how shallow our habits have become. We live in an increasingly individualistic culture. This has pros and cons, but with regards to our coffee culture, it is only watering it down. These coffee makers cater to the individual. America’s coffee culture was not extremely vibrant to begin with, but simply brewing a pot of Joe for the family on an old eight -cup machine seems to have far more value of commensality than everyone lining up to put in their own pod. In Ethiopia, coffee is actually roasted, ground, and brewed every time it is shared. And, it is always shared. In some Arabic countries, the way coffee is consumed after dinner is a way a suitor can tell if their potential in-laws approve of them or not. Just think what your possible father-in-law would think of you if you tried to serve him some coffee that required no thought or effort at all! In addition to being culturally void, the coffee pod machines are also a poor choice with regards to quality and economics. I will dwell first on the issues of quality. Coffee is an under-appreciated crop in America, despite our
that can be re-filled with coffee. However, this is simply a paltry effort by the manufactures to try and sell the idea that there is any semblance of sustainability in their product. It is telling that one of the original inventors of the Keurig has come out saying he wishes he had never helped create the machine due to their environmental impact. On the one hand, you have the world being littered with these little plastic cups which are no better for the earth than water bottles. And, on the other hand, you have the coffee machines themselves. They are in horrific abundance having been over-produced in an effort to not lose any chance to make money from this fad. They will sit on people’s counters for a few years until they break or a newer, sleeker model comes out. Then what? And what of the unsold ones waiting for homes on the shelves? Stores can only keep them around for so long. They are destined for the landfills and oceans inevitably. It is frustrating to me to think that such an offensive plastic contraption will be around long after I am dead. The most infuriating part is that it is completely unnecessary. We already live in a plastic world. Think of all the
wide consumption of the beverage. I would argue there are as many nuances within the varieties and styles of coffee as there are in wine. Yet, for the most part, Americans seem to only consume coffee as a means to a caffeinated end. We drink it to get through tasks we never wanted to do in the first place. As a result, we do not even pay attention to the quality of the brew coming out of these pods, which is poor, I assure you. Grinding coffee accelerates the speed at which the coffee loses quality, and all of the coffee pods are filled with pre-ground coffee. And, just how long ago was said coffee roasted, ground, and packed into these pods? And, how long did these pods sit on pallets in a warehouse before it was shipped to your local retailer? And, then how long did the coffee sit on the shelves before you the consumer purchased it? There are so many factors that point to these pods resulting in bad coffee. The manufacturers are buying the coffee beans from low quality, high volume sources. The coffee sits out for far longer than it should. The machines themselves are built for speed and efficiency, not quality. But, the companies know that the vast majority of the consumers are drinking this coffee with cream and sweetener. So they would not ever know the difference. It is comparable to how fast food companies hide their lack of quality behind high levels of fat and salt. But say you do not have any taste buds and you could care less about coffee culture. Perhaps the simple economics of coffee pods might be of interest to you. They are expensive. There is no way around it. The machines themselves are pricey. On top of that, the pods are outrageously expensive when you do some simple division. Depending on where you buy your coffee, they end up costing you between fifty to seventy-five cents a cup. That is crazy considering you can get coffee for about a dollar at most non-restaurant locations. When using any other method to make coffee (drip pot, French press, pour-over), the cost per cup is pennies on the dollar. It might sound as though I am being dramatic about the price, but think about it from the prospective of a restaurant owner. It would be absurd to even consider taking that much profit loss per cup. As Chef Klug likes to say, “You always gotta watch your bottom line.” And, in this case, the bottom line is screaming that coffee pods make no fiscal sense. There is yet another cost to consider in this critique of these machines: the environmental cost. Yes, they make pods that are biodegradable, and, yes, they make the pods
stock bags, pastry bags, and plastic wrap we go through on a daily basis. Why create one more product when we already have sufficient means to make high-quality coffee for cheaper? If you are reading this, you perhaps go to culinary school. How hard is it to heat up water on the stove or in a water kettle? Should we not, as culinarians, know how to make a good cup of coffee without the aid of some machine? Should we not be able to appreciate and savor the bouquets of various coffee beans much like we would savor wine, beer, or tea? I think so. If we are to become better stewards of this world, we must take a look at not only our large actions, but also such habits as seemingly mundane as our morning brew. Take some time to slow down a little bit. Get to know a nearby coffee shop and support a local business. Be more in touch with your world in little ways. Love your coffee.
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kitchen allows us to begin a food media career as richer people. Kitchen experience is also provides a foundation and character building. Erin shared that, in her past, she averted kitchen experience, wanting only to focus on food media. Now, she has realized that she would not have such a career now without the past experience of working in restaurants. Working hard is also part of the deal; Kersti’s advice is to say yes to everything. She said, “There is no status involved, chefs will catch onto your integrity,” your work ethic will provide further opportunities. On the topic of self-marketing, the panelists advised on creating an identity by using social media. Social media is a powerful tool for public relations at our fingertips. Our world now is a digital world, and what is happening to the traditional form of social media, the magazines? Food media is now regarded as a combination of print and social media, reducing career possibilities in magazines. Sarah Carey shared that magazines are now contracting with freelancers instead of hiring full time staff. There are also more digital extras to magazine print contents. Andrew’s advice to us was to be open-minded when looking for positions, and that there are even opportunities to create your own positions due to the growing importance of digital content. While the traditional magazine medium for food media offers lessopportunities, food media as a whole has a broader range for contents, creating new careers within the field. The panelists also shared their experiences of freelancing. The panelists’ consensus was that freelancing may be financially unstable, but is a great way to gain experience and become well rounded. Freelancing means managing yourself as a business; basic accounting and personal finance are great skills to have. Many of the panelists shared that they have never had just one job. Sara Moulton shared her mother’s advice, which was “go on every date, go
photo courtesy www.motherjones.com
‘AFS’ Food Media Concentration
BY: Crystal Tan, BPS Buisness Management
On Monday, January 11th, the Careers in Food Media and Communications discussion panel was hosted here on campus. The participants were: Jennifer Armentrout ’97, Kersti Bowser ’01, Sarah Carey ’94, Todd Coleman ’98, Patrick Decker ’05, Andrew Caplan ’02, Erin McDowell ’07, and Sara Moulton ’77. This alumni panel’s goal was to provide information on the developing Food Media concentration within the Applied Food Studies major. The participating group of alumni spanned many different areas in food media, and they were all eager to provide stories of their experiences in the field. When it comes to tips for starting a career in food media, the collectively agreed upon responses were to gain experience, to work hard, and to market yourself. In the food media industry, kitchen experience is very important. Practical experience in the
Food Media representation. photo courtesy www.sciencemeetsfood.org
on every job interview.” Creating connections is important. Kersti recommended prioritizing work and experience over monetary rewards. Other advice included working hard at internships to eventually lead to jobs, and connecting with the Career Services office for opportunities. After the panel discussion, there was a chance to connect with the panelists. I took this time to ask for advice from several panelists. Sara Moulton advised CIA students to check out blogs, websites, and other digital contents to find out what attracts us and why. Finding out which aspect we would like to pursue is a great first step. Jennifer’s reply to my question of how to become more marketable at interviews was show how you can fit in with the team or company in the cover letter instead of simply listing your qualifications. For those interested in food styling, Erin recommended thinking about visual appeal of dishes in our classes and everyday lives. Todd believed that social media is very important and the next upcoming platform maybe the popular snapchat. On the topic of getting digital experience, Patrick emphasized the importance of understanding basic digital concepts, such as wordpress, and delivering ideas in visually compelling ways. To those interested in a career in food media, this alumni presentation offered important insights of this industry. The sharing of their past experiences helped us set realistic goals and offered practical advice in pursuing such a career.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
Campus Newsletter BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
CIA PRESIDENT ONCE AGAIN AMONG THE MOST POWERFUL PEOPLE IN FOOD CIA President Tim Ryan has been chosen as one of the 50 most powerful people in the restaurant industry for 2016. The Nation’s Restaurant News (NRN) Power List recognizes the people who are leading and shaping the food world. Dr. Ryan was honored in the “Influencers” category. This marks the second time in the last three years that he has been named to this prestigious list. In 2014, Dr. Ryan earned the accolade in “The Connectors” category. Dr. Ryan is a 1977 CIA graduate. His unique background includes being a Certified Master Chef, Culinary Olympics champion, and having an Ivy League degree. He earned his doctorate in education from the University of Pennsylvania. Dr. Ryan has been with the CIA since 1982, when he was recruited to serve on the faculty and develop and run the college’s ground-breaking American Bounty Restaurant. He became the CIA’s fifth president in 2001. The full NRN Power List was revealed in the magazine’s January 18 issue. STUDENT-CURATED MUSEUM EXHIBIT As an independent study project, an Applied Food Studies major has curated a food history exhibit on display through February 4 at the Conrad N. Hilton Library on the New York campus. LeeAnn Corrao put together Dutch Foodways in the Old and New World with the assistance of students in the CIA’s Food History course. “I’ve lived in the Hudson Valley my entire life and never realized what a huge influence the Dutch have been in this area,” says Corrao, a senior from Hopewell Junction, NY. “I hope that by creating an exhibit about Dutch foodways, I can help visitors learn about Dutch culture and begin to appreciate how it impacted what we eat today.” The word “foodways” describes all the practices related to the production and consumption of food in a culture, region, or historical period. Colonialism, religion, and technological developments from the 17th to 19th centuries impacted Dutch foodways as food and culture intersected with larger issues of economics, slavery, morality, and health. Applied Food Studies at the CIA provides an in-depth understanding of global food resources, systems, and cultures, and their interconnections. The program, which launched in January 2015, prepares students to influence food policy from a chef’s perspective. BEER FROM STUDENTS IN ART & SCIENCE OF BREWING NOW AVAILABLE The first three beers brewed on the New York campus as part of the new Art & Science of Brewing course are now available. The elective in the CIA’s bachelor’s degree program is held in The Brewery at the CIA—a facility made possible thanks to a partnership between the college and Brooklyn Brewery. The course and the brewhouse built to house it were created to help elevate the status of beer on restaurant menus and familiarize the future leaders of foodservice and hospitality with how beer is produced. Beers from the brewery by are available at the college’s public restaurants and in its new Student Commons. The Brewery at the CIA has two flagship brands: Cleaver IPA and Mise en Place Wit. In addition, there will be a rotating lineup of “Class Project” seasonal beers designed by students in the class. The first of these is a Cast Iron Stout. All three are currently available at the American Bounty Restaurant and the other restaurants on the New York campus will begin offering the beers later this winter. The Brewery at the CIA can produce up to 500 barrels of beer a year. YOUNG GRAD MAKES ZAGAT’S 30-UNDER-30 LIST FOR SAN FRANCISCO Twenty-five-year-old Jason Raffin ’14 is an up-and-comer in the San Francisco restaurant scene, according to a December report by the Zagat Guide. The executive chef and part owner of Scotland Yard restaurant has made Zagat’s “30-Under-30” list just one year after earning his associate degree from the CIA. He already has significant experience at top restaurants in both San Francisco and Boston. Zagat’s editors say Chef Raffin has a “knack for refined, yet affordable, comfort food that’s as playful as it is technically sound” and notes that he “hopes to bring affordable, clean eating to the masses by carefully selecting ingredients and applying modern techniques to classic dishes.”
Ted Allen Interview BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary
Ted Allen has been on the radar in our industry for a sizeable amount of time. He is the host of the James Beard winning “Chopped,” a show that he is all too happy to tell you about. His time spent behind desks at some of the country’s best magazines and newspapers as a food writer lead him to where he is today. Back in October, my dear friends at Flavour Gallery, Erin and Alfredo, made it possible for me to attend the New York City Wine and Food Festival for the second year in a row. One of my goals this time around was to find a way to talk to Ted, a person that I have held in high regard for a rather large part of my life. (I have been a fan since his days on “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy”). Determined to get an interview, I did something bold: I asked him for one during his panel with Marc Murphy. I have to admit, the question was braver than I was. Thankfully, Ted was gracious, and he seemed open to the idea. I got the opportunity to discuss things further when I attended his cookbook signing following the panel. (If you have not picked up a copy of In My Kitchen, I suggest that you rectify that quickly). We briefly discussed the industry and his idea for a culinary student competition on “Chopped.” To date, he has been one of my favorite interviews. The following interview will give all of you a glimpse into the reasons behind that. Before jumping into things, Ted and I were discussing the way that I record my interviews. We then started talking about the interview he was going to be doing as soon as he hung up with me. He was asked by a former editor of his to do a Skype session with writing students, and he was talking to me about what he was going to discuss with them: Ted Allen: I edit the script they hand me every day, and I edit it fairly aggressively, and I still interview people. All those chefs, every single one of them, stand in front of the judges, and me, and I interview them. Only small portions of it end up in the show, but interviewing skills matter as much as they ever have, especially if you are trying to get a chef to talk about something personal – some of it they would rather not talk about or they have trouble talking about and you have to draw them out. So, I am still sort of in journalism in a way. Sarah: Yeah, it sort of happened that way for me. I joined the paper when I got here, and I had to decide on an article in the moment, and I ended up interviewing some friends of mine that own a t-shirt company that makes shirts for people in the industry. I ended up really liking it, and I became THAT person – the one who does the interviews. I do other pieces as well, but interviews are what I love doing.
S: Speaking of journalism, what made you decide to go into it? TA: I started out studying psychology – you’re welcome, Jeb Bush – I got a degree in it, actually. I was always told that my writing was good, but I resisted trying to do it professionally because I was afraid of low pay, even then, and I got a job at a copy desk at the Lafayette, Indiana newspaper at the time, and I just fell in love with the people who do it, and I decided, “The heck with it, I belong here in newsrooms.” I ended up gravitating to magazines, which is still where my heart lies. The jobs I’ve had with Chicago magazine and Esquire magazine really are two of my favorite jobs that I’ve had to date. Compared to television, they don’t pay as well, and you reach a lot more people with television, but I love it! I fell in love journalism first while listening to NPR, which does long form stories on the radio, and I’ve never really done radio, but I am still a member and devotee of public radio, I love it. They tell stories that other people don’t tell. S: What was it like growing up for you in terms of being exposed to writing and to food? TA: Well, I really didn’t get into writing and food in Ohio; it was really after I got my master’s in journalism at NYU and moved to Chicago and got a job at a paper. And there, my then boyfriend, Barry Rice, started a restaurant review column that I participated in and started to catch the bug. And, this was also when I was in my early 20s, right about the time when my friends – Martha Stewart was in her original heyday – and I had a bunch of friends that started to really get into cooking, and that was about the time I got my job at Chicago magazine editing the front of book section, and, like most city magazines, restaurant coverage is a big part of what the magazine does. So, I was always being asked to go interview chefs and write stories about new restaurants and this and that, and I got super into it and started really learning about better food. And, eventually, I became a junior member of the restaurant critics’ team – there were six or seven of them at the time – and really fell in love – it’s funny because I am speaking with my former editor in chief at Esquire in my next interview today, and one of the things that I am going to tell him is everything, every job I’ve had was necessary for me to end up getting the job I now have. If it weren’t for Barry’s column at the Journal & Courier, “The Famished Four,” and if it weren’t for falling in love with critiquing restaurants and food at Chicago magazine, I don’t think I would have ever developed the muscles to taste a dish, whether it’s a hoagie, or really glorified French cooking, or avantgarde cuisine like Grant Achatz and Charlie Trotter or Thomas Keller. And, thinking about what the chef is doing and what they are promising is an endlessly fascinating exercise to me, and one that I do to this day,
January 22, 2016
Entertainment
Sustainability Crossword
Last Block’s Puzzle Solutions
The solution will be in the next issue.
Designed BY: Hanna Krilov
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of January, 2016 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Logan Sliger, Jonathan Lee, Yechan Han, Nathan Smith, Joobeom Park Back Row: Taegyum Kim, Miguel Fagardo, Robert Eller III, Corey Goers, Brock Sturdiuant, Adam Senafin, Jon O’Conell
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Seyong Kim, William Quinn, Jenn Thomas, Ghazala Amoon, Jack Rosen, Carlos Berti Back Row: Enricco Lavna, Gyenogseok Ha, Randy Kiersnowski, Sunme Lee, Soh Mee Park, Michael Lapena, Ching Zing Chou, Chattip Danpnastpol
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Andrea Russell, Rebecca Martin, Dheiti Arora, Maria Camila Ariza, Samantha Wallace Back Row: Sydney Motz, Inbal Zaldete, Christine Jordan, Jessica Gonzalez, Marcie Pisiotta, Nataliz Young, Ana Cimz, Chloe Coman, Vincenzo La Corte, Stephen Leiponis
January 22, 2016
Graduation
11
AOS Graduation Speaker: Eamon Rockey ‘06 BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
General Manager of Betony
Eamon Rockey is the general manager at Betony, a Modern American restaurant located in Midtown Manhattan. In addition to his general manager responsibilities at Betony, Mr. Rockey oversees the restaurant’s critically acclaimed cocktail program, renowned for its milk punches. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America with a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts management in 2006, Mr. Rockey went on to work in service and beverage program positions at some of New York City’s most highly regarded restaurants, including Aska, Eleven Madison Park, Atera, and Gilt. A desire to further develop his fine-dining experience led him to look into new job opportunities, and in 2007, he joined the service team at Eleven Madison Park. During his time at the restaurant, Mr. Rockey learned a tremendous amount about wine service and was quickly promoted to bartender and captain. He credits General Manager Will Guidara for instilling in him a dedication to uncompromising quality. After three years at Eleven Madison Park, Mr. Rockey was approached to open a new restaurant in TriBeCa. After much consideration, he left Eleven Madison Park to open Compose in late 2010. As general manager at Compose, Mr. Rockey created the service and beverage programs, and hired and trained the staff. After a brief closing, the restaurant re-opened as Atera in spring 2012,
with Chef Matthew Lightner at the kitchen’s helm. The restaurant received rave reviews and went on to earn two Michelin stars. Later that year, Mr. Rockey dined at Frej, Chef Fredrik Berselius’ Scandinavian pop-up restaurant in Brooklyn, NY, and was immediately drawn to the chef’s culinary perspective. After approaching Chef Berselius and establishing a friendship, the two planned the opening of the Scandinavian restaurant Aska, which debuted in the former Frej space. At Aska, Mr. Rockey managed the front of the house and oversaw the beverage program, which included cocktails that employed a variety of progressive techniques and preparations, such as clarified milk punch and housemade oleo saccharums. In late spring 2013, Mr. Rockey reunited with his former Eleven Madison Park colleague, Chef Bryce Shuman, to open Betony. There, he oversees all aspects of the service program and is a constant presence on the floor greeting guests. Since opening, Betony has been the recipient of great critical acclaim, garnering three stars in The New York Times, securing a spot on Wine Enthusiast’s “100 Best Wine Restaurants” list, and being named Esquire magazine’s “Restaurant of the Year” for 2013. The following year, Betony was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant. Mr. Rockey is a supporter of Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign to end child hunger in America.
Guess who is covering the CIA Steels Men’s Basketball game: 01/30 at 1pm vs Pratt
Here’s a hint... & If you’re one of the first 100 in attendence you’ll recieve a free tee-shirt
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Industry
Continuation of Ted Allen Interview every day at work. And, we don’t do it with the eye of a snobby restaurant critic, we do it, or at least I do, with humility and understanding that this, perhaps, is unbelievably hard, and then you put them through the ringers on “Chopped,” it’s practically impossible – it’s such a difficult challenge. S: What advice do you have for up and coming writers, specifically, in this case, food writers? TA: Have you read Amanda Hesser’s famous essay in response to that question? She was, for many years, the food writer at the Times, and she has an essay says – her answer to that question today is very different than what it was ten years ago, and the landscape is completely different. But, that essay is very valuable, and has better advice than I could ever give. The upside of it is: it’s never been easy to get a paid gig as a food writer, and it’s harder than it’s ever been now with the fragmentation of the media. The good news is
Ted Allen Host of Food Network’s Chopped
that there are more opportunities than ever to do food writing, and to get it out there and be in control of it on your own, whether it’s for an organized website or your own thing. It’s a very difficult thing to think of as a way to make your living, and, instead, it needs to be thought of as a means to other ends. And, she [Amanda Hesser] says it better than I. So, look it up because I think it is really great advice.* *A link to her advice can be found at the end of this article. S: First of all, I love your cookbook. TA: Oh, thank you. S: I have truly enjoyed looking through it. And, I really enjoy the tips you have included in there. I especially got a kick out of the fact that you were encouraging everyone to use quart containers and kitchen tape to store food. I’m pretty sure that everyone at this school has at least two or three of those containers in their room. TA: Yeah! I love those things. I love the pint ones even more. They stack; they’re brilliant. S: But, are there any books that you really like right now, particularly cookbooks? TA: Oh, I have a tremendous cookbook problem. [Laughs] Not the least of which is that I have nine or ten co-workers that seem to produce one every other day. Amanda Freitag has just published a beautiful book for the home cook called The Chef Next Door, lovely book, lots of recipes, and it’s really personal, giving chef’s advice to home cooks done in an especially good way. Similarly, just a couple months before that, my friend Marc Murphy published a book called Season with Authority. But, my other colleagues, Alex Guarnaschelli just published Old School Comfort Food, Marcus Samuelson just published Marcus at Home, and last year Scott Conant published his Scarpetta cookbook, and those are just my teammates. Aside from that, I have a weakness for
big, fat beautiful books like Sean Brock’s book [Heritage]. You don’t want to cook out of it. You’re afraid to mess it up it’s so beautiful. Sean has the best recipe for pickled ramps. He’s devoted years to this recipe, and I used it exactly – a friend of mine gave me four pounds of ramps this summer. I made ramp butter and then pickled a bunch of it – I used it down to the letter except – he’s Southern, you see, and he wanted me to put in, like, a cup and a half of sugar, and I can’t stand sugary pickles, so I put in, I think, two tablespoons of sugar instead. That’s the one thing I changed about the recipe, and I absolutely love it. It’s perfect. I don’t know, man, I love the Canal House books, I love Pork and Sons, they just keep coming. S: I know you live in Brooklyn. What are some of your favorite restaurants right now in general and in the area? TA: You know, that one is kind of a hard one for me.
going on in the city, but we’re almost in a bubble up here. It’s strange. I feel like we’re different than most colleges in that way. If you don’t go out of your way to really explore, you do could just stay in a bubble up here. You don’t realize what’s going on. Have you ever been up here? TA: I’ve only been close, I haven’t actually visited, and I would love to. I do lots of festivals and panel discussions, and I’ve always wondered why somebody at CIA has not reached out. The people that I work with in particular, you sit down with four or five of them and you could talk for two and a half hours about the life of a chef. They are people that really have achieved a lot, and it’s a really fun talk. I did it that with Alex and Scott and Marcus and Michael White, and we went over by half an hour, people couldn’t get enough. It was so fascinating to listen to these stories. Good chefs are often good storytellers. It’s kind of important to sort of set the expectation, even when conceptualizing your dishes. It’s almost a literary exercise as much as it is a culinary one. S: Well, if you’re interested in coming up here, I can see what I can do. I know of some people I could talk to. TA: But, the other thing I may have mentioned to you is that I want a “Chopped” tournament with culinary students. And, I don’t mind saying it in a newspaper that might be read by officials at CIA. I want it to happen at the full approval and participation by the schools. I think the schools should hold assemblies and watch the episodes. I would want it to be CIA versus Johnson and Wales versus photo courtesy www.tedallen.net French Culinary versus We’re in a period of very aggressive achieving, and whomever else it should be, and I know that a couple I’m behind, I’m way behind on restaurants. One of the schools are nervous about wanting their school’s repfreshest ones I’ve been to is Alex Stupak’s restaurant, resentatives beating another school’s representatives, and that’s not that new. He also has a new cookbook and my answer to that would be, “Send your best, out about tacos. I’m a bad person to ask – I’m not chickens.” [Laughs] at the avant-garde restaurants in New York. I mean, I S: I know there would be some concern about who love Pok Pok, I love a lot of the places that you love. I would win. But, you cannot base a school on one perhad a good meal at Cannibal. But, I spend a lot of time son. cooking at home, and right now, we’re going to do TA: Well, you could have competitions within the one-hundred and five episodes of “Chopped” just this schools, and then, ideally for me, the one way to strucyear. And, we also now have “Chopped Junior,” which ture it would be to have a five-part tournament where is a lot of fun. So, I’m not good with that question. one tournament is four students from CIA, and the My restaurant literacy has plunged [Laughs] because second one is four students from Johnson & Wales. So, of my work schedule. it’s only in the finale that the students are competing S: The restaurants do not necessarily have to be new. against each other. And then you could really achieve I was just wondering what kind of places you go to the best, the best, the best. I really like working with when you get the chance. culinary students and talking to them and seeing them TA: Well, I go to restaurants in my neighborhood a at these festivals where you guys are always volunlot. I have Matthew Hamilton cooking’s at Lulu & Po teering – the passion and the excitement. You guys in Fort Greene, no relation to Gabrielle Hamilton, but look up to the Thomas Kellers of the world, and the he is a graduate of Prune. It is a wonderfully creative, Daniel Bouluds and the Danny Meyers, and all these I guess you could use the word “chefy,” restaurant be- other people in this industry. You guys really care cause it is. It’s small plates – octopus and salsa verde, about these people, and I think you would really be radishes and butter. It’s a lot of fun. I like his place a thrilled to have a chance to compete and have people lot. I like Aita in Clinton Hill. I do more eating in the like Alex Guarnaschelli taste your food and just talk neighborhood. I did go to Per Se for the first time yes- to you about it in that kind of way in a public forum. terday, and that was freaking fantastic, just spectacu- That would be thrilling. I’m proud of our show, and I lar. None of us, even rich people I hope, go eat that like our show a lot, but I do think that you could make way every day. But, once in awhile…just spellbinding, the argument that culinary students should not be fosuch a ballet of intricacy and flavor. Not a bad way to cusing their attention on trying to be on TV. I think spend your day, let me tell you. Actually, you know we respect the craft, I think we love it, and I think it’s what, I’ve been getting really great food from mŏkbar true that we love chefs, and that the chefs love us back in Chelsea Market. It’s just a little stall, but the depth because they keep coming, but it’s not the same thing of flavor in their pork broth is amazing. Korean take as devoting your life to cooking. on ramen, incredible flavor. I mean, rich, vivid broth. Food Writing Advice from Amanda Hesser: If you fell into this broth, you would float. It’s so full http://food52.com/blog/3195-advice-for-future-foodof gelatin and texture, and the flavor’s awesome. writers S: I try to make a point to stay in touch with what’s