Volume 39, No. 1
January 19, 2018
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Huckleberry: A Treasure Across the Bridge BY: Catherine Elsaesser, Reviewer
I have been anxiously waiting to venture to New Paltz to explore the business district and dine at some of the restaurants in the area. Some friends recently suggested we travel across the river for a weekend meal. We decided upon the restaurant Huckleberry, self-described as a “cozy cocktail bar with craft beers and a fresh twist on house made pub food”. Our experience could be described as just that, finding the warmly lit establishment on Church Street, just off of the bustling main street in New Paltz. There were several outside tables with a decorative bar station and twinkling lights that would create a perfect patio space in the summer time, after the current piles of snow melt away. The lower level of
Huckleberry showcases a long bar with stools, where one can order off the menu and sit to eat, in addition to a few tables. On the upper level, there are larger tables that offer more traditional restaurant service. There were Christmas lights hung around the windows and a fireplace glowing at the far end of the room. Some of the tables were separated by repurposed doors, creating a booth-like feeling while adding rusticity to the homey atmosphere. We began the meal with drinks. I tried the house rum punch, a delicious mix of blended rums, peach, meyer lemon, and angostura bitters served in a large coupe glass. The drink was a pretty peach color and was not cloyingly sweet. My friend tried the mocktail version of their drink called the Nervous Nellie, (originally con-
taining Old Forrester bourbon) which was tart and bright with strawberry mint shrub, lemon and plum bitters. For an appetizer, we chose one of the specials of the evening, which was a flatbread topped with roasted butternut squash, broccolini, pesto, and garlic béchamel. Unfortunately I was unable to detect the sauces; thus,the flatbread was a little dry. In addition, some of the squash pieces were a bit hard due to their uneven sizes. For my entrée, I chose the special of slow-roasted pork butt served in a bowl with sauerkraut, roasted fingerling potatoes, and a brown gravy, garnished with green onions. The dish was hearty and comforting, and the sauerkraut provided nice acidity to balance the dish. However, I wish the potatoes had been
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photo courtesy: Julie and Billy Gunk
Michelin Stars Are Not Shining Bright BY: April Johnson, Managing Editor
photo courtesy: Michelin
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The Michelin Guide has been around since 1900, bringing guests from all over the world to eat at restaurants with their acclaimed Michelin-Star ranking. What was originally designed to promote tires, the Michelin Guide turned into the key for the world’s best restaurants. In consideration of the rise of online reviews, changes in the industry, and the intense amount of pressure for chefs to gain and/or maintain Stars, is the Michelin Guide still relevant? The Guide helps to provide chefs with a goal to reach, along with popularity for the restaurants that land within its ranks. Some question if the amount of pressure on the chefs of these restaurants can become too much or unnecessary. In 2003, Chef Bernard Lois committed suicide because of the pressure he was under to maintain his 3 Michelin Stars at Relais Bernard Loiseau. Another
chef in 2016, Benoit Violier, also committed suicide from the pressure of maintaining his third Star. Another reason that people question the relevance of the Michelin Guide falls on the lack of specificity regarding how a restaurant earns its rankings. One Star indicates “high quality cooking worth a stop,” two Stars indicate “excellent cooking, worth a detour,” and three Stars indicate “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.” Michelin keeps their reviewers and rating methods top secret, which leaves many to question the credibility of the reviewers and just what exactly separates one restaurant from another. Do the same critics review the same establishments each year, and if not, are all critics are trained uniformly? People question what exactly restaurants must do to earn a third Star, since moving up to a higher ranking proves to be extremely difficult, almost out of reach. For example,
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Patrick O Connell’s Inn at Little Washington, has been trying to garner a third Michelin Star for years, and with the 2018 Guide out, he still has not managed to move up to a 3-Star ranking. In America, the restaurant scene has changed. People want more food for less money. Patrons also want food to be served quickly, causing more Americans to underestimate the value of a fine-dining restaurant experience. Consumers now have the power to write their own reviews online with Yelp and other forms of social media, allowing other consumers to gather information and form opinions about a restaurant before walking through the door. With this change in technology and easy access to guides that rank restaurants based off of hundreds of reviews rather than a
Cont’d on pg. 4
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LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
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THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
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From the Editor’s Desk
January 19, 2018
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Alex Talbot ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS
Dear Fellow Students, Writing this letter is very bittersweet for me. This issue will be my last issue as Editor in Chief of La Papillote. This experience has given me, first and foremost, the opportunity to work with the best staff I could of asked for. I thank them for their dedication to the paper, and all the meeting laughs Tuesday evenings. I have also had the opportunity to build and grow the paper that I have been so passionate about the last 21 months.
Bailyn Brink Raymond Delucci Catherine Elsaesser Valerie Goodrich Leslie Jennings April Johnson Selena Layton Alison Sprong
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
As a student who is moving on to the “real world,” I encourage students to embrace the challenges the CIA may present and embrace the growth you will go through. The program has certainly shaped me as a chef, but also as a leader and friend. The program goes by quick, appreciate every moment! I am leaving La Papillote in the very capable hands of Alex Talbot. There is no doubt in my mind that she will continue the proud legacy of the paper. A final thank you goes to you, the readers. I hope La Papillote has and will continue to be a resource for all students. Cheers, Alison Sprong
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Alison Sprong Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief
Alex Talbot Layout Editor
April Johnson Managing Editor
Jennifer Knepper Copy Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the
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January 19, 2018
Campus
January News Brief BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Staff Contributor
ANTHONY BOURDAIN RECEIVES HONORARY DOCTORATE After delivering the graduation address to bachelor’s degree candidates in December, CIA alumnus and TV personality Anthony Bourdain received an honorary Doctor of Humane Letters in Culinary Arts degree from CIA President Tim Ryan. “Anthony Bourdain is possibly the most recognizable food personality on the planet,” Dr. Ryan said. “He’s an accomplished chef, author, publisher, entrepreneur, and television host who shares his commitment to excellence and passion for food with audiences around the world. We are proud of his many achievements and pleased to present him with an honorary doctoral degree from the college.” Bourdain earned his associate degree in culinary arts from the CIA in 1978. During the 20+ years of cooking at top New York City restaurants that followed, he began writing. A magazine article in The New Yorker led to the bestselling Kitchen Confidential. Chef Bourdain went on to write several novels, non-fiction books, and cookbooks before turning to television. Both A Cook’s Tour and the Emmy-winning Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations featured episodes recorded at the CIA. He can now be seen on Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown on CNN, a show for which he has also served as executive producer, that has earned five Emmy Awards. “The CIA is an institution that I’m very grateful for having attended,” Bourdain told the graduates and their families. “It was incredibly important to me. I had a good time here, and I’m grateful for all of the skills I learned and the experiences I had.” The CIA graduation ceremony, including Mr. Bourdain’s address and the bestowing of his honorary doctorate, can be seen online. CIA ELECTS RICHARD MAZER CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Highly regarded food industry executive Richard L. Mazer has been elected the 19th chairman of the board of The Culinary Institute of America. He succeeds former Dunkin’ Brands CEO Jon Luther in this important and distinguished position. Before his retirement as CEO of Ventura Foods in 2010, Mr. Mazer had been a key player in the foodservice industry for more than 25 years. At Ventura—a company that makes cooking oils, shorten-
ings, cooking sprays, and other edible oil products—his leadership positions included chief operating officer and president. During his tenure, the company grew from $500 million to more than $2 billion in annual sales. New members of the board for 2018 are Stanley Cheng, CEO of the Meyer Corporation; Noah Glass, founder and CEO of Olo; Cheryl Henry, president and COO of Ruth’s Hospitality Group, Inc.; and Robert Unanue, president of Goya Foods, Inc. The CIA Board of Trustees consists of 25 highly respected leaders in the foodservice industry and business world. They provide expert governance and guidance for the not-for-profit college, and are not compensated for their services. STUDENT-CURATED MUSEUM EXHIBIT: YOU ARE WHAT YOU [M]EAT Over the course of the fall semester, students in the CIA’s Food History class researched and curated a museum exhibit for the public on display at the college’s New York campus. Through the use of primary texts, cultural artifacts, and multimedia, You Are What You [M]eat: The Culture of Meat in 19th–20th Century America showcases meat culture— from production to consumption, to its rejection—in America over the past two centuries. Some of the themes they explored include: the movement to large-scale production of meat; dietary attitudes toward meat consumption; Native American and cowboy culture; issues of class, race, and religious relationships to meat; the rejection of meat consumption; and cannibalism in American history and pop culture. The students wrote interpretive and descriptive text to accompany each theme, and produced multimedia components to introduce video and audio elements to the exhibit. The exhibit is free and open to the public until spring 2018 in the Donald and Barbara Tober Exhibit Room in the Conrad N. Hilton Library. Hours are Monday through Thursday, 8:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m.; Friday, 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; and Saturday, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. SENIORS RAISE MONEY FOR LOCAL CHARITIES Students in the Bachelor of Business Administration program raised more than $12,000 for CIA scholarships and local charities at three benefit events dur-
ing the fall semester. The dinners serve as capstone projects in the Foodservice Management class, where seniors apply the skills and knowledge acquired during their four years at the CIA to a reallife operation. Students divide into marketing, finance, beverage service, food service, culinary, and baking and pastry teams to organize the events. Each event featured a cocktail reception with hors d’oeuvre and a silent auction, followed by a four-course dinner. In October, students took inspiration from the German Oktoberfest with OctoberFeast, whose menu featured sauerbraten braised short ribs with grainy mustard spätzle and red cabbage, among other highlights. The event raised $5,604 for the Dutchess County Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) and the Rudy Speckamp Memorial Scholarship at the CIA. November’s event, Hearth & Hearts, coincided with Veterans Day, so the students chose to support Play for Your Freedom, an organization that provides wellness workshops for hospitalized veterans. The marketing team based the event on warm wishes and giving thanks to veterans, as well as giving back to our communities and celebrating the seasonal bounty. That class raised $3,769 for Play for Your Freedom and the Speckamp Scholarship. For December, the event’s theme was Winter in the Wine Cellar. The service team decked the tables with wine bottles, wine corks, and pine; and the culinary team served short ribs braised in red wine, accompanied by cheesy polenta, sautéed rainbow Swiss chard, and roasted baby heirloom carrots. Students running that event raised $2,872 for the Food Bank of the Hudson Valley and the Speckamp Scholarship. Rudy Speckamp was a CIA faculty member and Certified Master Chef who passed away early in the fall semester. Many members of the senior class had him as an instructor and wanted to remember him by supporting a new scholarship fund in his name. “Despite his celebrity-chef status, he never raised his voice in the kitchen and remained fair and considerate to students,” said senior Patricia Nguy. “He will be sorely missed.” This semester’s events are on February 24 and March 10. Visit www.ciarestaurantgroup.com/ charityevents/ for details. CIA GRADUATES IN AUSTIN ARE RISING STARS Four CIA graduates in Texas have
been honored by StarChefs.com as Rising Stars in the Austin and San Antonio culinary scenes. Adam Brick of Vino Vino, Damien Brockway of P6 at The Line ATX, Page Pressley of Emmer & Rye, and Michael Fojtasek of Olamaie—all in Austin—are among the seven Rising Star Chef Award winners. The online media organization also hands out awards in the community chef, pastry chef, artisan, sommelier, bartender, restaurateur, and concept categories. “They have strong, compelling culinary philosophies, are able to see beyond the four walls of their restaurant, and are committed to fostering a culinary community by sharing their knowledge with fellow professionals,” write the StarChefs.com editors. “Ultimately, creativity, ambition, exquisite presentation and, most important, delicious food wins a chef the designation of StarChefs Rising Star. They are the future of American cuisine.” The four CIA alumni received their awards at a ceremony in December. Each year, StarChefs. com selects four places in which they identify the up-and-coming stars of the food and beverage business. The two Texas cities were combined into one metropolitan area for this year’s awards. Other areas celebrated in 2017 were New York City, Los Angeles, and Colorado. The last review of Austin and San Antonio was in 2012. CIA FACULTY & STAFF IN THE NEWS The diverse and experienced faculty and staff at the CIA include experts food and beverage, hospitality, food policy, history and culture of food, culinary science, and management. Here is a recent sampling of CIA people called upon for their expertise: • With the growing popularity of multi-cookers, Professor Bill Briwa shared with CBS Sunday Morning some history about kitchen appliances, using items from the Chuck Williams culinary arts collection at CIA at Copia. • Associate Professor Jennifer Stack was a guest on a segment during CBS This Morning about diabetes sponsored by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. She provided Joan Lunden several ideas for healthier ways to prepare food for people with diabetes. • Professor Beth Forrest was quoted as a food anthropologist in a Spoon University article about the seasonal popularity of pumpkin spice flavor. • Senior Associate Dean
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Bruce Mattel was quoted by NPR’s The Salt blog as a food and flavor expert for a story about what the term “natural flavor” means on a label. Nation’s Restaurant News also quoted Chef Mattel in an article about seafood sustainability and putting invasive species on restaurant menus. • Independent TV station KCET in Los Angeles ran an episode of the Meals Ready to Eat series about veterans at the CIA, featuring San Antonio Director of Education Howie Velie, the late Professor Rudy Speckamp, and two CIA students. The episode was accompanied by an online article quoting Director of Admissions Michelle Mullooly. • Lecturing Instructor Kristin Egan appeared live on WNYT News in Albany, NY demonstrating how to decorate gingerbread houses. • Associate Professor Jürgen Temme showed readers of New Jersey’s Record that three classics—sugar cookies, biscotti, and rugelach—lend themselves to numerous variations for the holidays with just slight changes to the recipes. • FoodService Director magazine reported that Professor Shirley Cheng led a four-day intensive seminar about Asian Cuisine for chefs at Harvard University’s dining operations. Also, long-time CIA Professor Xavier LeRoux, who recently retired, made the news without being interviewed. Alumnus Lon Symensma told the Denver Post the fifth restaurant in his Denver culinary empire will be named LeRoux after his mentor when he was a CIA student and managerin-training.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
cont’d from Huckleberry
slightly more seasoned. My friend ordered the Wagyu beef burger topped with lettuce, tomato, house-made pickles and special
cont’d from Michelin select few, some people find these sources to be less biased and more open to varied ideas than the Michelin Guide. With this information, we can answer the question, “Is the Michelin Guide still relevant in today’s society?” The answer is both yes and no. Yes, because Michelin stars bring restaurants more business and can provide celebrity status for chefs. The Guide is more relevant in countries like France, where it is still highly regarded because people in France appreciate fine dining
sauce and served with rosemary parmesan fries and house-made ketchup. The burger was cooked to exactly the medium rare that he ordered, and the rosemary added a delicious flavor to the fries. My second friend ordered the white
bean quinoa burger, topped with lettuce, red pepper, pico de gallo, and an avocado sauce served with the same fries and ketchup. The burger was surprisingly moist for a vegetarian option and had a nice garlic flavor. Even after our filling appetizer and entrées, we decid-
ed to share the donut of the day, warm from the fryer with a margarita glaze, berry drizzle and sea salt. This sweet, fruity bite was a great way to end our meal. Between the reasonable prices, cozy atmosphere, and friendly wait staff, Huckleberry is
more than most Americans do. Even so, Michelin fails to provide the same amount of information about a restaurant as can be gathered from an online review website and in the fact that the American restaurant scene has shifted from fine dining to more casual restaurants. The insane amount
of pressure put on the chefs of Michelin-ranked restaurants also challenges its relevancy. The Michelin Guide has long been a pillar for setting the standards of fine dining restaurants and will continue to be a major voice in the restaurant industry, even more so in France
and Europe than America. For restaurants that do not garner Michelin rankings, success is still attainable. No matter what, we as culinarians are called to serve our guests the best food possible, and as long as that goal is achieved, with or without Michelin stars, our industry is succeeding.
photo courtesy: New Phoenix Times
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ON CAMPUS
January 19, 2018
CIA Hosts First Ever Cookie Off BY: Nathan Flintjer, CIA Staff Contributor
Features their energy into making delicious cookies; but as you know, a winner has to be chosen. After a long and tasty process, the Judges and People decided who made the best Cookies in town! The following teams were awarded: 1st: The Rosie Rangers 2nd: The Sugar Sisters 3rd: Las Galletitas People’s Choice: Angelicious
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possible! Without the support of Chef Egan and Chef Meli, The Office of Campus Life, RAs, Orientation Leaders, SPICE, Student Government, SAAC, Athletics, Recreation and Wellness, The Storeroom, The EGG, Campus Safety, LCS, and Grounds and Facilities working in front and behind the scenes events of such a magnitude would fall apart! Keep your eyes open for information about the upcoming Chowder Cook-Off on March 18th
Showmanship: The Rosie Rangers Professionalism: The Sugar Sisters
On December 16th, 2017 the 1st Annual “Cook(ie)Off “ was held in the Gym during the annual Holiday Village program. This first attempt at a baking focused competition really hit the ground running with over 40 Cookie Recipe submissions
from our students. With the help of Chef Egan and Chef Meli, 12 recipes were selected to compete. In addition to classic holiday cookies our students really came up with some very unique and delicious cookies! Over 400 people from
both the neighboring towns and campus arrived for the event. One of the biggest draws from the day was the limited edition milk glass and milk bar; because what would a cookie competition be without milk?! All of the teams had a blast and put all of
Events like this would be IMPOSSIBLE without some amazing support! The Cookie Committee would like to extend our deepest gratitude to Tuxton China Inc. for their generous donation and the display plates used to showcase the creative and delicious cookies to the judges. The Chili Committee would also like to thank all of the students and staff at The Culinary Institute who made this event
Zagat History of My Last Southern Gentleman BY: Alexandra Murry, Food Writing Contributor
RYMAN’S ALLY The “first sip” of the fizzing Coca-Cola as it hits the “masculinity of Jack” sets the mood for the entire night. Every sudden movement “catches your eye” as you get stuck in a “daze” and “are lost from reality.” The waiter “instantly” signals his “close attention” to the “intricate detail” of each dish as he recognizes it is your “first time” visiting Nashville. Dessert leaves you “wanting more” but you have to hold yourself back as to not “overindulge” in the most “perfect moment” and just “trust fate” for more. WHISKEY KITCHEN The “simple” yet “gorgeous” décor mixed with the “stale bodied” crowd creates a sense of “comfort.” “Conversation” in the dining room is as “awkward” as a middle school dance. “Observing” how staff “interacts” with each other makes you “wonder” when it was going, to “smooth over” like the taste of whiskey pressed against your lips. You wonder when would be the “appropriate” time to ask for the “check” hoping to “imply” you are not just there to exchange credit card “digits?” Lucky for you the “hospitality” is just as “southern” as the “sweet tea” and
who knew the “best part” of the meal could be in the back of a Dodge Ram. MARGARITA CRAZE The best “cure” to relive a “lifechanging” indulgence from the night before is to “simply” drown your thoughts in a “goblet sized margarita.” At Margarita Craze you are “promised,” the drinks will be as “cheap” as your last boyfriend. However, no one told you how much you would “fall for” the “effortless” concoction of a drink that would “hit you” as hard as the tequila. You are not ready for the “power” that this drink is going to have on you but you continue to “appreciate” it wishing this was your “first and last.” ELECTRA You are presented with a “reserved, special” menu and told that “you” are the “only one” who is able to get this “once in a lifetime” opportunity. You start to “question” how many of these “menus” were also “dispersed” so that you could feel “special for a night.” You start to “believe” that you meant something until you glance over and see another customer given the same “spiel.” You “pretend” you didn’t see the
“interaction” so that you can continue, “telling yourself” that you are of any “value” to the restaurant. ROCK BOTTOM BREWS Meeting with friends for dinner is, to say the least, “entertaining.” The “true hatred” for one becomes “clearer” than the “disgust” of a “vegetarian’s face” when witnessing the “massacre” of a full rack of ribs. You angrily hit under the table to “stop” your “meathead” from bumping heads with your “best friends” tree hugger. It becomes quite evident that the amount of “experience” in life does not always “shine” through a “few” beers in. COUNTRY ROAD If you are looking for that “home cooked meal” with the “promise” that you will “never” forget but “always” look back on your “journey” then the “to die for” buttermilk biscuits are “exactly” what you “need.” The biscuits “remind” you of the “simplicity” of the ingredients while allowing you to “hold on” to the excitement that you will be “returning” shortly. You “reminisce” as you “slowly” try to never “let go” of that last bite. You feel the “pain” that you will have to wait “until
next time” to “share” that “moment” again. ROADKILL TAVERN The fried chicken is “dry” and “meaningless” as your will to take another bite. In fact, it is a “waste” of calories. As you “stare” at the “boring pathetic excuse” of a chicken you realize how much of a “mess” the kitchen was. You would think this “thirty-year-old establishment” would be “capable” of “treating” customers to the “highest standard.” But no, instead you “find out” through “social media” and “word of mouth” days later they have been “cheating the system” by “using” pre-breaded chicken the entire time. TAKE TWO It has been “months” since you “went out” to eat in Nashville. You are “looking” to just “enjoy yourself” and “try something new.” You didn’t come back to be “bothered” or “constantly reminded” of all the sweet tea you have been “missing” up north. If you are anything like me you aren’t a sucker for the “fake” southern hospitality. No all you “want” is to be left alone and to eat your “overly priced” genuine southern meal in peace.
BLESS YOUR HEART There is nothing “worse” than eating a dish that you once held to the highest “respect” and then going back and recognizing it was not as “special” as the last time. You did not “deserve” this “unhealthy” meal in your life. You ask for it to be “removed” from you at once but instead, it keeps coming back to “try again” because this time the chef “promises” it is different. Only, you and I both know a chef never changes his methods only his approach, hoping to eventually “guilt” you into craving more. Inspired by Noah Baumbach’s THE ZAGAT HISTORY OF MY LAST RELATIONSHIP
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
A Study in Sustenance BY: Bailyn Brink, Contributor
You are what you eat, a time celebrated and much-repeated idiom. Many of us have heard this saying applied to our unhealthy eating habits, such as consuming only ramen noodles. However, in this series of publications, I hope to discover the deeper meaning of such statements. Throughout history, what different peoples have been able to consume has formed the building blocks from which cultures are made. After all, the three basic needs are shelter, water and… food. The desire to eat stems not only from necessity but also from sociality. When we eat, we wish to eat together. Think about it; how comfortable are you going to The Egg by yourself? Wouldn’t you rather spend that time in company with people you care about? Certain times of day, foods, and locations have become sacred because of that common desire of eating in community. Different places, of course, produce different bounties. Before the dawn of agriculture, men shaped their entire lives around the pursuit of what
could be eaten. Hunter-gatherers, as they were known, spent their time following such animals as caribou, elk and wooly mammoths. When an area could no longer support the family unit, they would move to a new place that could. While these huntergatherers all pursued the same goal, their adaptations to the task of survival were so numerous that no other singular identifier exists. Their food sources shaped these adaptations and in result, their cultural identities. As time progressed, these same patterns repeated again and again. Rituals were produced, table manners invented and etiquette developed. Food is the basis for so much more in our societies; it can be the basis of religions, customs, languages and societal structures. This column will seek to uncover in every issue a new food item, a new influence, and how our culture has been shaped.
Food as Medicine BY: Alexis Hart, Staff Writer
As culinarians, we often have different speculations when it comes to food and its overall purpose. Most of us do not think about food simply as sustenance but more as a way to create commensality or even just the ambiance that dishes shape for a certain place or time. Food’s function as more than just a way of survival is a new consideration; only recently have ingredients become about enjoyment for the everyday person. Throughout history, people have eaten mostly for a sense of filling and also for medicinal purposes or balance of the four humors. Only those possessing wealth or nobility could afford to choose and savor the flavor of food as more than a mechanism to fight hunger. “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” Hippocrates, whom many historians consider to be the founder of medicine as a “rational science,” was one of the most influential figures in the history of medicine and healing and was ahead of his time. Around the year 400 B.C.E., he advised people to prevent and treat diseases first and foremost by eating a nutrient-dense diet. Over the past few centuries, food has progressed in flavor but at a cost to nutritional value and ingredient purpose. So what does this mean for us as chefs? By
understanding the health benefits and medical processes and histamines that are produced by eating a variety of foods, we can not only utilize ingredients to enhance a dish but also to improve the health of our consumers. Most anyone can cook, but chefs possess the supplementary knowledge of ingredient functions and benefits; understanding the body’s reactions to food can serve to make you more successful. A piece of ginger kept in your mouth can stop bouts of coughing. Similarly, honey, when applied on wounds, can heal due to its antiseptic properties. Knowing the scientific makeup of a common ingredient can provide the necessary knowledge to formulate an innovative recipe later on. Knowledge pertaining to the medicinal properties of natural remedies is at such a decline that utilizing natural ingredients in subduing the effects of diseases or illnesses is considered to be ineffective and useless. In many cases, ingredients induce different histamine production to give off a feeling of comfort or pleasure. Take chocolate, for example, which has commonly been used throughout history as a ceremonial drink because of its adverse effects, including the addictive properties it induces. As culinarians, we can use such
information to improve the guest experience and to increase wellness and quality of life.
photo courtesy: The Doctor Weighs In
January 19, 2018
Features
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Congratulations to Lena Wellington (@ lena.alyce934) for winning this issue’s Best of Block contest! Thanks for sharing this awesome photo from your first day of Advanced Cooking Do you want to be featured in the next issue of La Papillote? Show us your best photos on Instagram using the hashtag #papilloteBoB. One winner will be chosen every issue to be published!
Talbot and Arding is Your New Weekend Stop BY: Valerie Goodrich, Reviewer
In the hip town of Hudson, NY lays Talbot and Arding: a grandeur cheese and provisions shop with fresh baked goods, austerely superior deli style food, and small yet impressingly exceptional pastries. Named after the two powerhouse female chefs that own this cheese and provisions shop, Talbot and Arding has never disappointed me, nor any guest I have brought along for the journey. Upon walking into the shop, customers are welcomed by a chic storefront with flowers awaiting inside just behind the window. Walk in and your eyes behold a countertop stocked with all of their baked goods. A few favorites of mine are the squares of spongy, pillowy focaccia. Buy two of those. I also grab a loaf of their pumpkin bread thats dressed up and ready with a blanket of cream cheese icing and a nice sprinkling of pumpkin seeds for good measure. I then convince myself saying, “hey, you went to the gym a couple times this week. Why don’t you grab yourself spinach, dill, and goat cheese quiche for breakfast tomorrow morning?” I love myself, but I also grab something a little more healthy too. I ask the wonderfully
helpful store front assistants for a slice of their gluten free fruit and nut bread. The loaf is 25% bread and 75% walnuts, dried apricots, and raisins. My carnivorous friends usually indulge in their mini biscuit sandwiches that are changed daily. Another fan favorite is the homemade sausage which is wrapped in puff pastry and is usually thought of as a commodity. A Shepherd’s
hand-pie made with ground lamb, potatoes, and carrots is added to their ever-growing stash as well. Homemade cold products are out on display to entice you even furthur. Talbot and Arding makes everything from pestos to sauces, jams to jellies, and even pot de creme to vanilla custard. The cheese selection is on an entirely different level, and I think that’s something you need to check out
for yourself. I’m no cheese monger. My advice to you is come here with at least one friend for sure. It would be selfish to keep this all to yourself. Buy a hunk of their homemade focaccia. Ask for some slices of their finest cheese, meats, a container of home pickled vegetables, and one of their amazing spreads. Grab a few sweet fairs and a breakfast pastry
or two. Go home, make a couple sandwiches, finish with dessert. In the morning when you wake up and realize that you weirdly miss Talbot and Arding, surprise yourself with that breakfast pastry you bought. Sorry to tell you this, but you’ll probably be back next weekend, too.
photo courtesy: Talbot and Arding
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LA PAPILLOTE
Opinion & Editorial
Dump The Dairy: How Your Morning Yogurt is Ruining Your Health BY: Laura Bruno, Food Writing Contributor
Not to be blunt, but dairy is makes you fat and sick. I would not be shocked if that statement just racked your brain. For years the federal government ¬and corporate lobbyist have put an incredible amount of effort, money, and corruption into convincing Americans that we NEED milk. Some of my earliest memories as a child include watching Hillary Duff sport a milk mustache for the “Got Milk” campaign on T.V and being forced to study the federally funded “food pyramid” that emphasized the importance of swiss cheese and yogurt in my everyday diet. From a young age, we are conditioned to see milk as vital to our health. We’ve been told “You need milk to grow. Without milk, your bones will break. If you don’t drink milk, you’ll get osteoporosis.” Well, I’m here to tell you that it’s a bunch of crap. Yes, that’s right you’ve been taught lies, dairy, in fact, is doing more harm to your body than good, and it only takes a little common sense to figure it out. When you boil it down, the purpose of milk is to fatten baby cows. Cow’s milk by design grows a 90-pound cow into a 2,000-pound cow over the course of two years. It allows cows to double their birth weight in only forty-seven days. Sound fattening? That’s because it is. That’s right milk is designed to make its consumer fat. Now, this makes sense when you are an 8-pound
infant trying to form into a functioning human being, but it does not make sense for a fully developed adult to drink a glass of milk with every meal. At a certain age, we lose the need, and ability to rely on milk fat for development. Pass that age, and all of it goes straight to your rear. At what age does milk stop benefiting human development you may ask? 4 years old, that’s right four years, not 10, not 18, not 25, but 4. Humans need the enzyme lactase to break down lactose (the sugar found in dairy). However, humans between the ages of 18 months and four years lose 90 to 95 percent of this enzyme. Essentially, this is your body saying: YOU DON’T NEED THIS ANYMORE, MOVE ON. Past four you have lost the ability to process these sugars correctly, so your body turns them into a muffin top. Not so nice. In addition to making you fat, dairy is making you incredibly sick and disease prone. Dairy products have been linked to all of the following: Acne, Anemia, Anxiety, Arthritis, Attention Deficit Disorder, Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder Fibromyalgia, Headaches, Heartburn, Indigestion, Irritable Bowel Syndrome, Joint Pain, Osteoporosis, Poor Immune Function, Allergies, Ear Infections, Colic, Obesity, Heart Disease, Diabetes, Autism, Chrons disease, Breast Cancer, Prostate Cancer, and Ovarian cancer.
You may have just read that, and noticed I listed Osteoporosis. You are probably thinking “but Laura, milk is good for my bones!” … sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you’re wrong. Researchers at Yale University found that the countries with the highest rates of Osteoporosis- including the United States, Sweden, and Finland- were those in which people consumed the most milk. Another study showed that though 40 million American women have osteoporosis, only 250,000 African women have bone disease. In fact, of the forty tribes in Kenya and Tanzania, only one- the Maasai- has members suffering from osteoporosis. The Maasi, are a cattle-owning, milk drinking tribe. The notion that milk is essential to fulfilling human’s calcium needs is bogus. Milk is not a reliable source of minerals, especially after it has been pasteurized. You can get all the calcium you need from: fortified grains, kale, collard greens. Mustard greens, kelp, seaweed, chickpeas, watercress, soy products, broccoli and a bunch of other fruits in vegetables, that also contribute to weight loss. Knowing all of this, why would the government knowingly advocate for a glass of milk with every meal on the USDA “My Plate”? The answer is money. Sadly, the government cares more about keeping corporations and lobbyist who line their pockets happy instead of keeping you healthy. That’s right,
you have been made into a fat, sick pawn in the dairy industries plan to make money. So, you’ve been lied too, used for corporate gain, and made fat and sick. If you are feeling upset, good. These things should unsettle you. I know I may be coming off as blunt and harsh, but it comes from a place of passion, and concern. It wasn’t until I looked in the mirror one day to realize I was wildly overweight and sick, that I decided to educate myself about the food I put into my body. The kick in the ass I gave myself has changed my life tremendously. It’s been two years since I decided to decrease my dairy consumption drastically, and I have never felt and looked better. I lost over 50 pounds, I stopped having horrible mucus build up, my acne virtually vanished, and my energy levels increased dramatically. If you are struggling with weight, or don’t feel healthy, DUMP THE DAIRY. Trust me; you will pee your pants when you see how much weight you will lose and how much better you will feel after giving it up. Stop relying on corrupt systems to teach you what is right for your health. Giving up dairy is not hard. There are hundreds and hundreds of dairy alternatives. Switch out the milk in your latte for soy, or opt out for an Americano. Instead of sprinkling parmesan cheese on your pasta, grab some nutritional yeast and dump as much as you want on top without any consequences.
Get your sandwich from the line without the cheese. Try the convenient Oasis options in the Egg which are guaranteed dairy free, and are delicious. Advocate for the school to offer alternative icecream options by the frozen yogurt (Cashewtopia strawberry is even better than dairy ice-cream, and I’m not exaggerating). So, whether you are tired of being fat, tired of being sick, or tired of being lied to, you now have a reason to dump the dairy. Laura Bruno is a 9th Term Advanced wines student. She loves americanos, Bordeaux, and the library. For any questions, or inquiries about source material used for this piece please email her at: Laurabruno875@gmail.com.
The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111
January 19, 2018
Escape: Part 3 BY: Selena Layton, Staff Writer
The alley is long and narrow with little to no light, and when I reach the end of the alley, my heart drops. There is a tall metal fence blocking me from going any further. I skid to a halt in front of the fence. “No,” I say feeling defeated. I did not come all this way and spend months planning this escape just to get caught as soon as I reach the outside world. “No!” I scream hitting the fence, just in time for the guards to hear me. “Don’t move!” My head snaps back in the direction from where I came and I see a security guard advancing my way, and fast. More guards then follow him out from the building. My mind is racing, and I can feel my heart beating through my chest like it might burst at any given moment. I look around, panicking and desperate for a solution. I glance back at the fence and my eyes follow the height of it to the very top. The fence is really tall and I’ve never climbed a fence before, but there’s a first for everything. So without looking back, I start climbing the fence in haste. I ignore the screaming be-
hind me and try to concentrate on where I’m putting my feet. One wrong move and its back to the mad house for me. “Hey! Come back here!” From the top of the fence, I look down just in time to see the guards closing in. There only seems to be five guards, I think to myself. It will be a piece of cake outrunning these guys. I swing my leg over the top, but as I climb down the fence my foot slips from the twisted metal and I fall to the ground with a loud thud. I feel a slight pain in my ankle but I shove the pain aside and lift myself from the sidewalk. One of the guards begins to climb the fence while another awaits his turn. The other three guards have turned around to go through the building and out of the front. Without hesitation, I take off once again. The pain in my ankle gets worse with every step I take, and if I don’t stop running soon I don’t know if I’ll make it to freedom. As if things couldn’t get worse, I feel a drop of icy water hit my face, then another, then two more. “Crap! Why does it have
Entertainment to rain?” The air tonight is already a bit cool, now it’s raining icy droplets and I can tell by looking at the clouds that soon it will be pouring. I don’t even know where I’m going sleep. Will I sleep on a park bench in the rain? Behind a dumpster using a cardboard box as a shield? I turn a sharp corner and see a long alley to my left. Immediately and without thinking, I turn to run down the alley. I make my way to a dumpster near the middle and crouch behind it. I hold my breath, feeling too scared to breathe, but the guards run right by the entrance. A few seconds after I know they are gone, I take off running down the alley. I turn a single corner which leads to an open road lined with apartment buildings and I stop. I look both left and right, begging I make the right choice of which direction to go in. Through the intensifying rainfall and the darkness however, it makes my decision more difficult. “There she is!” My head whips back to see behind me on the other end of the long
The Bigger Picture, Continued BY: Kiana Gilbert, Poet
Wake up from the dream Just to remember it was real And it’s collapsing A dramatic shift mid-air Will tell you they’re all laughing At someone’s pain… “cuz it’s funny” To sell your soul for a taste of money Tears will start to fall I can taste the salt And it brings bitter joy For the great prince that once Was charming and coy Could not avoid fate
A big choice A bigger mistake Please don’t inflict on me Not even an ounce more of pain Lord I ask you; if you please Set fire to my rain
alley. A guard starts running in my direction. My decision is made for me, so I bolt to the left. I hear sirens in the near distance and I beg my throbbing ankle to allow me to run faster. I glance behind me to see where the guards are at, and to my luck they have not turned the corner of the alley yet, but that only means they will any second. As I turn back around to face the direction I am going in however, at the very last second I see an older gentleman walking his dog. I run right between them where the leash is and for the second time tonight, I fall to the ground, hard. I hear a soft ringing in my ears as I bring my hand to my head. The man leans over me and offers me his free hand to help me up. I shakily accept his helping hand and he pulls me to my feet. I lift my throbbing head to meet his eyes and that’s when I realize he asked me a question. “What?” I ask feeling lethargic. “I said, are you okay? That was some fall!” I remember the guards that were chasing me and my head snaps back into the direc-
9
tion of the alley. Seeing nothing protrude from the alley I turn my pleading eyes back to the old man. “P-please sir, you have to h-help me! These m-men are chasing me and I-I did nothing wrong and I c-can’t get caught! Please, h-help me!” I started crying right there in front of the man. I am just so ready to get out of the cold rain and stop being chased. The man looked at me like I was crazy, but before he could open his mouth to speak three of the guards came running from the alley with flashlights. They exchanged some words before splitting up, one going right, and two coming my way. The sirens were also sounding dangerously close. I turned back to the man, feeling hopeless now. He sighed, “Fine, but you need to move fast. Follow me.” He started walking to the entrance of the closest apartment building with the dog and I both following close behind. He closed the door and the guards ran right by without a second glance.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of January 19, 2018
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Charles Sanbermano, Mary Ross, Kevin Seeprsand Back Row: Alex Johnston, Michael Peterson, Clemet la Jamiel
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Rachel Vazques, Ian Overmier, Annalise Pegueros Back Row: Erica Kim, Jaryn Pipkins, Andrew Bergman, Claudia Cano
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Bumchul Kim, Anna Smith, Tyler Trainer Back Row: Will Jeakins, Jack Greely, Siman Zemaitis, Joseph Martino, Dante DiGeronimo
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Maria Paula Heredia, Allison Lyon, Stefanie Torres, Brittene Dais, Becak Groetken, Jasmine Mathews, Carlos Ronec, Cathreen “Linda” Phillips Back Row: Teemyung Hay, Yisso Kang, Keith Sharp, Samuel Hader, Emily Golden, Hongmin Kim, Quinn Casey, Hyun Suk Song
January 19, 2018
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: John Suley ’96 Vice President of Food and Beverage Great Wolf Resorts
BY: Shelly Loveland, CIA Staff Contributor
As vice president of food and beverage for Great Wolf Resorts, John Suley develops and delivers inspired and market-leading food and beverage experiences for guests, while maintaining the creativity and independence of each property. Great Wolf is the largest family of indoor water park resorts in North America. Chef Suley’s previous position was vice president of food and beverage operations for Royal Caribbean International, where he was responsible for the restaurant, bar, and culinary operations for the company’s 25ship fleet. In this role, he oversaw everything from concept development for all food and beverage experiences to marketing, revenue performance, training and development of employees and crew members, and food and beverage innovations for new ships. Prior to that, Chef Suley served as associate vice president of food and beverage operations for Celebrity Cruises, where he
led all menu development and implementation, as well as chef recruitment and training. He was instrumental in the Celebrity Cruises brand receiving many accolades, such as the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for 10 of its restaurants in 2014, the honor of being the first cruise line invited three times to cook at the prestigious James Beard House, and high praise for the launch of its Suite Class restaurant Luminae. His professional background includes serving as executive chef at South Florida’s incarnation of the Gotham Bar & Grill (New York) and Gotham Steak at the Fontainebleau Hotel in Miami, both owned by CIA graduate Alfred Portale ’81. Chef Suley has worked in the kitchens of well-known hotels such as The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach in Florida; Waldorf-Astoria and St. Regis in New York City; The Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC; and Alizé at the Palms Casino and Resort in Las Vegas. He’s also
worked alongside some of the world’s most accomplished chefs, including Daniel Boulud, Laurent Gras, and Gray Kunz. With a wealth of experience to his name, Chef Suley has long been recognized for his unique culinary vision. He is a 1996 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, and has served as a valuable mentor to many CIA students.
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
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LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
A Letter from the SGA President BY: Ray Delucci, SGA President
Hello, my name is Ray Delucci and I am the President of Student Government. As we start the new semester, I am very excited for what Student Government body has in store. Our last board made a lot of progress on a lot of sustainability issues, thanks in large part to the former President, Kathleen DiPerna. As I step into my new role as President, I would like to have an open line of communication to the students; communication is an important aspect in the kitchen, and is even more important in everyday life. Throughout the semester I will be updating you, the student body, on the board is working on by submitting articles to La Papillote, and through my weekly office hours in The Egg. Sustainability is a standing committee on the Student Government board and this means that it is and will be a priority for the board permanently. We need your voice and involvement any student who wants to be a part of this Sustainability Committee
and help us leave a lasting impact on the campus please contact me directly by emailing SGA@cia. culinary.edu. If you see an issue with sustainability, whether it is food waste, improper labeling, just reach out to a Student government member and let us know how we can help; the easiest way to do this is by stopping by our office hours in The Egg which will be posted around campus on a flier soon. As we look forward to the semester, gardens on campus, waste management, and overall communication to the students are our main goals. Please attend our public meetings, which are held bi-weekly at 915 pm in the Multi-Purpose Room of the SRC, so you can hear all the things that are going on across campus. Lastly, I wish you all good luck this semester and I am very excited to move forward as your President, and am grateful for the opportunity to serve you.
Think (Winter) Produce First BY: Alison Sprong, Editor in Chief
Winter may seem bleak and barren to most, but there are a variety of fruits and vegetables that come into their prime during the winter. Embrace the Menus of Change principal of “pick produce first� this season and experiment with winter’s finest. This produce guide will tell you all the winter has to offer. Beets: Find beets that area smooth and firm to insure the best quality.
It is best to take the root from the leaves before storage to keep the vegetable crisper. Beets are great to have on hand for salads, purees or soups. Cabbage: Dutch cabbage is a great choice for winter not only for its seasonality, but for its deep purple color. Try it in a winter slaw with pear and apple or use it as the wrap for a warm chicken salad
Celery root: Perhaps the most underrated root vegetable, celery root is versatile and delicious. Its herbal flavor is the perfect compliment to braised meats, or to take the leading role in a hearty soup Persimmons: This small orange fruit comes in both astringent and non-astringent varieties. Both can be used in both sweet and savory
recipes. The non-astringent varieties can even be enjoyed as a snack on its own. Pomegranates: To buy the best pomegranates, rely on the size and weight of the fruit. The bigger and heavier the better. The tiny seeds inside can be used in salads or in different meat sauces. Radishes: The rainbow of varieties of radishes all come to the
forefront in the winter. Start to stock up for the snow with radish pickles and then add them to sandwiches or salads. Rutabaga: This wonderful root vegetable is a cross between turnips and cabbage. This gives them a sweet potato like texture. Use them where you would use a potato in the recipe to give a rounder and more wholesome flavor.