All-new magazine!
presents
fall 2012 | issue 10
In s id e : s of P ic t u r e e c ip e ! every r
top chefs
How to Cook for a Crowd
Holiday Menus From Around the World
FOR more holiday RECIPES, meal ideas and more, visit www.JoyofKosher.com
Chocolate Desserts Fall Soups & Salads KOSHER MEDIA NETWORK
USA $4.99 / canada $5.50 / UK £3.75 Australia $5.50 / sA R38 / Israel 18₪
Contents FALL 2012
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Fall Salads How to make salad that is exciting and palatestimulating.
additional features 6 Recipe guide 8 Letter from the editor 12 Gourmet gifts & gadgets 14 Unique food finds 24 Fasting Tips 25 Kitchen Disasters
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Infused Honey Infuse honey with limitless flavors, and use it to make honey pecan streusel cake.
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Bento Box Lunches My daughter’s interest in this newfound “pretty” food led me to the discovery of bento lunches in short order.
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Fall Soups Autumn is in the air, and along with it comes comfort food season. There is nothing more comforting than a big bowl of delicious soup.
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The Ultimate Stuffed Cabbage A step-by-step guide to making the traditional stuffed cabbage dish.
32 new food trends 36 stuffed cabbage: the story 40 New Wines for the New Year 62 Keeping Kosher in Vietnam 64 chocolate desserts
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Moroccan inspired Holiday Menu Levana Kirschenbaum shares recipes from her Sephardic heritage to make this Mostly Moroccan Rosh Hashanah dinner menu.
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Italian Holiday feast A wonderful Italian menu for Sukkot, or any other time of year.
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Traditional Holiday Menu Joan Nathan’s ideal traditional and elegant holiday menu.
72 cooking tips from top chefs 74 iced teas
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For more of everything that’s packed into this issue, visit us at Joyof Kosher.com/magazine
Recipe
G u i d e
Q Quick
D Dairy
T traditional
KF Kid Friendly
M Meat
P Pareve
DF diet friendly
G Gourmet
Soups Q P Butternut Squash Chickpea Soup pg 52 M G Ravioli in Beef SBroth pg 46 Q M/P Lentil Soup pg 30 M G Vegetable Soup pg 30 D/P KF Tomato Soup pg 31 Q M Chicken Stock pg 29 P G Vegetable Stock pg 29 M G Beef Stock pg 29 Salads Q P Pomegranate Spinach Salad pg 44 Q P Sweet Potato & Dried Cranberry Salad pg 60 P G DF Grilled Plum Salad pg 33 P G Poached Pear Salad pg 33 P G Apple Fennel & Roasted Beet Salad pg 34 Q P DF Cabbage Cucumber Apple Slaw pg 52 Q DF Moroccan Swiss Chard Salad pg 60 Sides T P Holiday Challah pg 58 Q P DF G Tunisian Carrots pg 60 Q DF G Soba Noodles with Roasted Roots pg 54 P DF Sweet & Sour Pumpkin or Butternut Squash pg 48 Q P DF Lafa pg 25 Fish Q P G Pomegranate Salmon pg 52 T P Gefilte Fish Ring pg 59 P G Fish Bourekas pg 44 Meat Q M G Brisket with Fall Fruits pg 59 Q M G Beef Tajine pg 54 M G Veal Roast pg 49 M T Stuffed Cabbage pg 39 Desserts Q KF Chocolate Carrot Cake pg 69 P G Chocolate Bread Pudding pg 66 Q KF G Chocolate Parfait pg 69 DF G Chocolate Dipped Fruit pg 69 T G Apple Apricot Crostata pg 61 P G Spongata pg 48 Q P Tropical Fruit Cake pg 55 P T KF Honey Pecan Streusel Cake pg 17 Dressing & Condiments G Herb Pistou pg 30 Q G Pomegranate Vinaigrette pg 33 G Cranberry Vinaigrette pg 34 G Honey Thyme Vinaigrette pg 34 Q KF G Vanilla Bean Honey pg 16 Q G Rosemary Honey pg 16 Q G Pumpkin Spice Honey pg 16 Q KF Soy Sesame Dressing pg 22 Drinks Q KF DF
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pg 74
wine pairings Veal Roast pg 49 Domaine du Castel Grand Vin
Brisket with Fall Fruits pg 59 Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon
Ravioli in Beef Broth pg 46 Capcanes Peraj Ha’abib
Apple Apricot Crostata pg 61 Binyamina unoaked Chardonnay
Spongata pg 48 Herzog Reserve Late Harvest Orange Muscat
Chocolate Bread Pudding pg 66 Psagot “Prat” port style wine
Pomegranate Salmon pg 52 Pacifica Pinot Noir
Chocolate Carrot Cake pg 69 Herzog Reserve Late Harvest Zinfandel
Beef Tagine pg 54 Shiloh Secret Reserve Shiraz
Chocolate Parfait pg 69 Schmerlings Chocolate Liqueur
Tropical Fruit Cake pg 55 Morad Passion fruit wine
Chocolate Dipped Fruit pg 69 Walder’s Vodka Vanilla
back to school
Thinking Inside the Box:
Getting Creative With School Lunches By Allaya Fleischer | Photography by Ruvi Leider
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 CLICK For more comforting soup recipes go to JoyofKosher.com/ magazine
Autumn Soups T
here are two basic types of soups. Creamy, pureed soups with all the comfort of fuzzy slippers, and then there are soups with vegetables and sometimes meat floating in them. Both types of soups start the same way, with stock. I teach cooking classes all over the country and am often asked how to make the perfect chicken soup, as well as about the differences between broth and stock.
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Stock is a liquid base from which soups and sauces are made. Stock is made by simmering bones and sometimes meat with mirepoix (aromatic vegetables) and herbs and spices. Broth is an already flavored stock or water with vegetables, and sometimes starch, added to make it more substantial. The added flavor distinquishes
broth from stock as broth is already flavored while stock can be bland and even missing basic seasoning like salt and pepper. Bouillon means broth in French. It is broth simmered with vegetables,herbs and sometimes meat or poultry. Bouillon cubes are made by dehydrating vegetables, meat stock, a
small portion of fat, salt and seasonings and shaping them into a small cube. Dehydrated broth is also available in granular form. Bouillon cubes are convenient but have little nutritive value since they mostly contain flavor enhancers from monosodium glutamate or yeast extract.
S
I make soup with a technique called ad tock is the backbone of evehoc cooking. It means “for this.” What I ry delicious soup. Sure, you can make a soup with water The Backbone of a mean by ad hoc is that I start out with the intent to make a great soup. Each ingreor canned broth, but you will not Great Soup dient is thought out and has a purpose. have the richness of flavor and Many people make soup with “a little of mouth feel. As a professional chef this and a little of that” mentality. While you will end up with and mother of 3, I like to make my own stocks not only for reasons of attaining superior flavor, but soup, it will not have a defined flavor and texture. I tell my also because I like to know exactly what is in my staff that soup should be made just as carefully as a sauce or soup. Every ingredient in the soup is in my control braised dish. That means technique as well as love goes into and I know that when I serve my family and cli- the pot! I do not throw leftovers into a pot hoping for a great ents, I am giving them a delicious and nutritious end-product. I start with carefully chosen ingredients and then add some touches, usually in the form of garnishes. gift from the heart.
Chicken Stock 4
pounds of chicken bones (wings, carcasses, necks etc…) Approximately 12 cups of water 1 large Spanish onion, chopped 3 large carrots, chopped 3 celery ribs, chopped 3 sprigs of fresh thyme 5 parsley sprigs 1 bay leaf 1 whole clove 1 teaspoon of whole black peppercorns
(Do not add salt at this point. The stock will reduce as part of the natural simmering process and salting it can make the stock overly salty.) 1 Place all the ingredients in a large stockpot and fill with water only to the level of the bones and vegetables (this will guarantee a rich, not watery stock). 2 Place the stockpot (uncovered) over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Do not boil! (When I make stock, I look for bubbles that barely break the surface.) 3 Skim off any scum that floats to the top. The scum will make your soup cloudy and bitter. Continue simmering for 4 hours. Turn off the heat and allow the chicken stock to steep. 4 Strain out the bones and vegetables and discard. Cool the stock completely, in your stockpot in a sink filled with cold water and ice before storing. Store, covered, in the refrigerator or freezer. Ladle off the fat from the top of the stock before using. 5 Stock may be stored, covered, in the freezer for up to 3 months, or in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. To turn this stock into soup: bring the stock to a simmer, add your favorite vegetables ( I like celery, celery root, carrots, parsnips, fresh herbs) and noodles or knaidlach (matza balls), and now you can add salt.
Stock
Vegetable Stock
Meat Stock
Instead of adding water, I add flavor anytime I need to add a liquid to a dish. This tasty and fresh-tasting stock is quick cooking and versatile for meat and pareve dishes. I make a large batch and freeze it in portions so I can grab it and add it to my soups, sauces and braised dishes.
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2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 carrots, sliced 1 onion, quartered (don’t bother to peel) 3 celery stalks, chopped 1 fennel bulb, chopped 2-3 cloves garlic (don’t bother to peel) 1 tablespoon tomato paste 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped 10 white mushrooms, halved or sliced 20 parsley sprigs 10 thyme sprigs 2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan or stockpot, over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, onion, celery and fennel. Cook the vegetables until they begin to caramelize (about 10 minutes). 2 Add the garlic and tomato paste and stir to coat the vegetables with the tomato paste. 3 Add the remaining ingredients and 8 cups of water. 4 Simmer for 45 minutes and strain immediately. The vegetables will soak up the water and you will have mushy vegetables if you do not strain it right away.
pounds chuck, cut into thin strips about ½ inch long 2 tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper 1 small red onion, diced 2 cloves of garlic, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3 cups chicken stock
1 Pat dry the meat and season with salt and pepper. 2 Brown the meat, in batches, in a small saucepan, lightly coated with olive oil over medium-high heat until the meat is dark and caramelized (about 5 minutes per batch). Transfer the meat to a bowl and set aside. 3 Add the onion to the pan and sauté the onion, occasionally scraping the pan with a spatula to gather the brown bits left from the meat, until the onion is brown and caramelized. Add the garlic to the pan and continue cooking for another 2 minutes until the garlic begins to soften. 4 Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the onion and garlic. Return the meat back to the pan, and add the chicken stock. Cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour or until the meat is tender. 5 Cool, and skim the fat off the stock.
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Written by gil marks
history
the story
stuffed cabbage
T
he concept of enwrapping a tough leaf around a filling and simmering it in liquid originated in either the Caucasus region (home of the grape vine) or Turkey, as a way to use otherwise inedible grape leaves. Cabbages, which probably arrived in the eastern Mediterranean between 600 to 300 BCE, were occasionally substituted, but most Middle Easterners preferred the grape leaves for this savory dish. The concept of stuffing cabbage leaves eventually spread throughout much of Asia, Europe, and Northern Africa, where it became known by an assortment of names and, as with other well-traveled dishes, developed numerous variations. The Turkish dolma and dolmasi became dolmeh kalam (dolmeh is “stuffed” and kalam “cabbage” in Farsi, the latter from the Greek kaulion) in Persia, tolma in Georgia and Armenia, dolma in Azerbaijan, käbestä dolmasi by the Tartars, and lahana dolmasi (lahana means “cabbage”) in Turkey. Soon many Turks renamed the dish, variously lahana sarma (sarma means “to wrap” in Turkish), yaprak dolmasi (yaprak is a Turkish word for “leaf”), and yaprak sarma (wrapped leaf). In Greece, non-Jews called them lahanodolmades and yemista me lahano, while Sephardim used the Ladino term dolmas de kol. The Arabs spread stuffed cabbage to North Africa, Syria, and Arabia, where it was generally known by the Arabic mahshi malfuf. The Tartars, who learned of stuffed cabbage from the Turks and Persians, overran Ukraine in 1240 and Poland the following year, introducing the concept of stuffed 36
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Gil Marks (www.gilmarks.com), an expert on Jewish food and culture, is the award-winning author of numerous books, including Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (2010) and Olive Trees and Honey (2005).
vegetables to Russia, Poland, and Ukraine, where it became popular peasant fare and whimsically named after local Slavic words for dove -– golub in Russian, holub in Ukrainian, and golab in Polish. Perhaps the stuffed cabbage rolls reminded them of little birds in a nest or in a pot, and perhaps because it also sounded like dolmasi. It became goluptsi (little doves) in northern Russia, holubtsi in northern Ukraine, halubsy in Belorussia, goluptshes in Lithuania and northern Poland, and in various parts of Poland holishkes, holeptshes, holubtshes, golomkes, galloptchy, and geluptzes. In Galicia, many of the Polish names were common, especially holeptshes, as well as teibelekh or tabelakh (“little doves” in Yiddish). About the same time that stuffed cabbage arrived in Russia by way of the Tartars, Turks and Middle Eastern Jews introduced the dish to the Balkans, then under the control of the Ottoman Em-
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By Joan Nath an | ph otograp h y b y r u v i lei d er
Traditional Holiday Meal Fall 2012
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desserts b y S hi f r a k lei n | p h o t o g r ap h y b y r u vi l e i d e r
What better way to end a meal than with decadent chocolate desserts?
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