Palladium Sicily
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Palermo
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Eolias Islands
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A grigento
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Monumental and decadent, noble and plebeian, lush and arid… Sicily enchants and wins over travelers with every one of its many and varied stimuli: the shrill cries, colorful stalls, and intense smells at La Vucciria market (which you might translate as ‘hubbub’); the crystalline waters of the Aeolian Islands; the cyclical eruption of Mount Etna; the impressive Greek archaeological remains of the Valley of the Temples; the rural and desolate locations of the series Inspector Montalbano; and the bucolic settings where the second season of The White Lotus was shot. As Goethe said during his trip through Italy: “Without Sicily, Italy leaves no image in the soul; here is the key to everything.”
Sicilia 3
Palladium guides
Sicilia
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1. I n the seaside town of Cefalù time seems to stand still
With an area of
25,711 km²
2. Stromboli is where the love between Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini was forged.
(9,927 square miles), Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean.
atglance a
3. The view from the Belvedere on Via Pirandello is one of the most photographed in the world.
The first celebrations of the feast of St. Agatha, patron saint of Catania, date back to
17 August, 1126. With 850,000
inhabitants,
Palermo is the mostpopulous city on the island The active Etna volcano is about
3,357 meters
4. Aci Trezza: the rocky sculptures in the sea inspired Giovanni Verga’s I Malavoglia.
(11,014 feet) high – although this varies as a result of its constant eruptions – and is the highest mountain in Italy south of the Alps Covering
5. S cicli, the jewel of the baroque period.
1,300 hectares 3
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DID YOU KNOW?
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(3,200 acres), the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is one of the largest and most important archaeological sites in the world. Palladium guides
Palermo a picture-postcard destination Sicilia
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rt, history, culture, nature, beaches and excellent food… Palermo offers all of this and more, and has been on the Unesco World Heritage List for its Arab-Norman architecture since 2015. Strolling through its streets and around the city, you’re reminded not only of these origins, but of some of the most famous scenes from The Godfather saga. You can also mingle with the locals and experience the tasks of everyday life alongside them, such as buying fish at La Vucciria market. Every corner of the Palermo area could be on a postcard, from the breathtaking views at Piano Pomo in Madonie Park, to the houses that hang over the sea in the ancient fishing port of Cefalù.
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Palermo
See & do
OLD TOWN Four key places stand out in Palermo’s old town: the Norman Palace, the Cathedral, the Massimo Theater, and La Vucciria market. The first two are among the nine individual spots making up the Unesco World Heritage Site. The Norman Palace was the seat of the kings of Sicily, and represents the oldest royal residence in Europe. Since 1947 it has been home to the Sicilian Regional Assembly. Inside is the Palatine Chapel, considered one of the most outstanding examples of the so-called Arab-NormanByzantine style that predominated in 12th-century Sicily. While the monumental exterior of the Cathedral leaves visitors amazed, its interior also holds surprises in the form of its many chapels. These include the Sacramento, which is decorated with precious stones and lapis lazuli, and the Santa Rosalia, which houses a carving of the city’s patron saint – held very dear by inhabitants. The Festival of Santa Rosalia is held every year in mid-July. From here, the Massimo Theater is less than ten minutes away on foot.
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The neoclassical building stands out with its six large Corinthian columns, and movie buffs will recall the last scenes of The Godfather III, which were filmed inside and on the staircase. Discover it on a guided tour and go up to the rooftop terrace, which has spectacular views of Palermo. Finish your walk through the old town by mingling with the locals at La Vucciria market. Due to its proximity to the city’s port, it has always specialized in selling fish. Today its main axes are Piazza Caracciolo and Via Maccheronai; the latter was once used to hang out macaroni pasta prepared by the artisans who had their stalls there, hence its name: ’macaroni-makers street’. Norman Palace, Piazza del Parlamento, 1, 90129 Palermo. +39 091 705 5611 Cathedral, Via Vittorio Emanuele, 90134 Palermo. +39 091 334373 Massimo Theater, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, 90138 Palermo. +39 091 605 3521
interior, which show scenes from both the Old and New Testaments. The way it fuses with the Arab art that prevailed in Sicily before the Norman conquest of the island is also impressive, as you can see in the arches of the cloister, located next to the cathedral.
its splendor. If the Pollina river allows it, you can also take a boat trip along the Tiberius Gorges, a UNESCOrecognized geopark.
Piazza Guglielmo II, 1, 90046 Monreale. +39 091 640 4413
CEFALÙ This coastal town still preserves its ancient fishing port, with its unique houses hanging over the sea. The best way to visit is to get lost in the narrow streets of the old town, where you will find the medieval washhouse and the evocative Pescara Gate, the Gothic arch that served as the former entrance to the city. Once inside, you can enjoy attractive views of both the beach and the old port. Before leaving this picturesque place, you must visit the Cathedral, which is also part of the World Heritage Site. Cefalù 90015 Palermo.
La Vucciria market, Piazza Caracciolo, 90133 Palermo.
MADONIE PARK Nature lovers should not miss Madonie Regional Natural Park. You can visit on your own or head to Madonie Adventure Park, which offers everything from treehouse accommodation to zip-line circuits (during spring and summer). Don’t miss the Abies nebrodensis, a score of unique and endangered local fir trees; the golden eagles in the Pizzo Canna area; and the selfie-worthy views at Piano Pomo, from where you can survey the entire park in all
MONREALE CATHEDRAL Also part of the World Heritage Site, the cathedral at Monreale makes a visit to this village in Palermo province, about 30 minutes’ drive from the city, well worth it. One of the greatest achievements of Norman art, it is famous for the beautiful golden mosaics that cover the entire
GRAND PALLADIUM SICILIA RESORT & SPA Located in a lively enclave facing the sea and with direct access to the beach, Grand Palladium Sicilia Resort & Spa, in Campofelice di Rocella, offers luxurious facilities and all the services imaginable for a fivestar vacation. Enjoy its magnificent location, in a busy area of the island and close to entertainment venues, bars, pizzerias and restaurants. Viale Himera 7, 8 ss 113 Km 204, 3, 90010 Campofelice di Roccella +39 0921 930011
Parco delle Madonie, 90027 Petralia Sottana. +39 0921 684011
CAMPOFELICE DI ROCCELLA Campofelice di Roccella is located 15 kilometers (nine miles) from Cefalù. Part of the Madonie mountain range, the village has a stretch of coastline made up of mixed sand and pebbles, and is home to the Grand Palladium Sicilia Resort & Spa. It’s a place to consider when you want to relax, with a wide promenade and beautiful main street, Via Cesare Civello, which provides a pleasant place for a stroll. Campofelice di Roccella, 90010 Palermo. Palladium guides
Palermo
Eat & drink
ANTICA FOCACCERIA S. FRANCESCO This inviting historic place is an obligatory stop if you want to savor some typical Palermo street food. This includes dishes such as pani ca meusa, small panini stuffed with veal spleen and lung, and arancina, a breaded and fried rice ball, usually stuffed with ragu, peas and cheese. Also worth tasting here is the pasta alla Norma (with fried eggplant, tomato sauce, and grated salty ricotta cheese). Via Alessandro Paternostro, 58, 90133 Palermo. +39 091 320264 CAPPELLO Sicilian cuisine is renowned for its pastries, and Cappello is an institution in Palermo. Everything here is prepared by professional bakers with quality ingredients, almost all of them local. The place is credited with having the city’s most delicious version of the legendary torta setteveli. Dipping your spoon in one of these seven-layered cakes is a must, but so is taking a bite of its cannoli, the undisputed king of Sicilian desserts. Via Colonna Rotta, 68, Palermo. +39 091489601
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Via Nicolò Garzilli, 19, Palermo. +39 0916113769 BUATTA CUCINA POPOLANA What used to be a store is now a place serving traditional dishes that adapt to the season. Highlights include bucatini with sardines and blue fish rolls. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 176, 90133 Palermo. +39 091 322378 GIARDINO DONNA LAVIA With a daily menu based on meat and a pleasant terrace, this restaurant is the ideal spot to savor typical dishes from Palermo’s mountain areas. Almost all of the ingredients used in these recipes are organically or locally produced. Contrada Donna Laura, S.S. 643, km 8, 90028 Polizzi Generosa, Palermo. +39 0921551104
TINCHITÈ Located in the heart of Cefalù, this charming spot is a reference point in the village for delicious local dishes, such as roast pork knuckle and pork with Sicilian-style provolone. Via XXV Novembre, 37, 90015 Cefalù. +39 0921421164 A PARANZA This restaurant on the seafront at Campofelice di Roccella will bring the whole family together, offering a wide selection of pizzas for the little ones, as well as delicious fish and seafood recipes for the adults. The desserts are also highly recommended. Lungomare del Mediterraneo, 38, 90010 Campofelice di Roccella. +39 380 7187 033 Palladium guides
Sicilia
Palermo
Shop
FECAROTTA ANTICHITÀ Located in Palermo old town, this store is a must for those looking for beautiful, handcrafted jewelry or antique objects made from precious materials such as coral, silver, or majolica ceramics. Via Principe di Belmonte, 103/B, 90139 Palermo. +39 091 331518 LA COPPOLA A coppola is the typical Sicilian cap, similar to the Basque or French beret. As its name suggests, this store in Cefalù is a must-visit if you want to take home one as a souvenir. They come in all colors and fabrics and are 100% handmade. Corso Ruggero, 161, 90015 Cefalù. +39 324 888 0043 CERAMICHE TRE ERRE One of the best spots in the city and throughout the island for local ceramics. This workshop will also customize any object according to your requirements. Via Roma, 358, 90139 Palermo. +39 091 327757
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Palermo
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6. Antica Focacceria S. Francesco 7. Cappello 8. Buatta Cucina Popolana 9. Giardino Donna Lavia 10. Tinchitè 11. A paranza
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Palladium guides
Palermo
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annoli are perhaps the most cinematic of traditional Italian pastries. They appear on two occasions in The Godfather saga, as well as in the second season of The White Lotus; are mentioned several times in The Sopranos, and even feature on CSI: New York. They also play a leading role in the famous Inspector Montalbano series of Italian novels. But besides being so photogenic, cannoli are delicious sweets with a lot of history. They consist of tube-shaped rolled dough with ricotta cheese inside, along with other flavorings such as vanilla, chocolate, pistachio, Marsala wine, rose water, or cinnamon, and are usually decorated at the ends with chocolate
chips, pistachios or candied fruit. They’re so popular in Sicily that it is rare to find a pastry shop without a tray of cannoli on display. Dating from the time when the Arabs inhabited the island, they were commonly eaten during carnival but are now consumed throughout the year. The dough was originally rolled around a piece of cane – canna in Italian, hence the name – and fried with it in place. They were then filled with ricotta and the rest of the ingredients. Nowadays, they are rolled using small metal molds made specifically for this purpose. You can’t say you’ve traveled to Sicily until you’ve tasted cannoli at least once. And it’s very likely you’ll want to take a few back home with you.
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
The Aeolian islands oes, glamour, and archaeology land of volcan
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he seven Aeolian islands (Lipari, Alicudi, Filicudi, Panarea, Salina, Stromboli, and Vulcano) were underwater volcanoes that emerged to the surface two million years ago. Currently, only Stromboli and Vulcano are active. They owe their name to Aeolus, god of the winds, who, according to legend, created them with his divine breath. A Unesco World Heritage Site, they are characterized by their crystalline waters, archaeological sites, glamorous visitors, and thermal mud baths. You can reach them by ferry from Milazzo, but to move from one island to another you can also rent your own boat, an aliscafo, a small speedboat, or a sailboat (with or without crew). 11
Palladium guides
Sicilia
Islas Eolias
See & do
VULCANO What is most impressive when you arrive on this island is the smell of sulfur that permeates every corner. Although the volcano last erupted in the distant 1890s, the fumaroles are still very active and the island’s thermal waters are sulfurous, and considered extremely beneficial for the body and skin. A good way to enjoy this free open-air spa is to dive into the inviting bay of Acque Calde, which surprises you with its jets of warm water flowing into the sea. Another of the most popular activities on the island is a visit to the crater. The path up, which winds along the mountainside, offers an unforgettable view. The best way to get to know the area is with a private guide – you can hire one upon arrival in Vulcano. Vulcano, 98050 Messina. LIPARI Ideal as a sun-and–beach destination, Lipari also stands out for its major archaeological collection, which is one of the
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largest in Italy. Archaeologists carry out continuous excavations here, illustrating the complex range of civilizations that the Mediterranean sustained, as you can see in the Aeolian Archaeological Museum. Among the many highlights is a rich collection of terracotta and Greek comedy masks. Outside the museum, history lovers will
also delight in the Contrada Diana Archaeological Park, which houses numerous Greco-Roman sarcophagi and tombs from the 4th to 2nd centuries BC. Finally, the perfect snapshot: looking south, you have one of the most-photographed views of Sicily – the port of Marina Corta, with its sailors’ houses built in the early 20th century. Lipari, 98055 Messina.
PANAREA The smallest of the Aeolian Islands is also one of the most picturesque. Its white landscape, full of unique houses where electricity is not long arrived, is reminiscent of the island of Capri. Renting a motorcycle from San Pietro, the pier where the regular-line aliscafo hydrofoil boats arrive, is highly recommended and the route that goes south toward
Capo Milazzese is unmissable. This is the site of an ancient prehistoric settlement dating from the 14th century BC featuring 23 mostly oval huts paved with stone. From here, head down to the sea, where you’ll find the Junco cove, protected by a mantle of solidified lava. Panarea, 98050 Messina. Palladium guides
Islas Eolias
Eat & drink
HYCESIA This restaurant on Panarea with a pleasant terrace is one of the best options on the Aeolian Islands for tasting fresh local fish and seafood. Its star dish is spaghetti with lobster, and as a starter you can opt for the parmesan eggplant, which is prepared here with cheese, tomato, and basil. Via San Pietro, 20, 98050 Panarea. +39 090 956 0746 TRATTORIA DA PINA DI MANIACI This unpretentious restaurant on Vulcano enjoys a privileged location just a few steps from the sea, and is a good choice for tasting traditional island recipes based on local fish and vegetables. You must order the tuna! Strada Provinciale, 179, 98055 Vulcano gelso. +39 368 668 555 TRATTORIA DEL VICOLO
With more than 50 years of history, this trattoria overflows with art both on its walls – which are adorned with paintings by the chef, who is also an artist – and
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at the table. Expect gastronomic creations using regional flavors but reinterpreted with a contemporary approach. Vico Ulisse, 17, 98055 Lipari. +39 090 981 1066
OSTERIA SAN BARTOLO The fruit of the dreams of winemaker and sommelier Danilo Conti, this osteria in Lipari offers authentic cuisine from the island with few contrivances, including homemade eggplant with parmesan, ricotta, and fish dishes. Via Francesco Crispi, 109, 98055 Lipari. +39 090 896 1317 PUNTA LENA Fish is the star on the menu at this restaurant in Stromboli, which is recommended by the Michelin Guide, and the best way to enjoy it is beneath the coquettish pergola, which offers an exceptional view of the sea. Via Marina, 8, 98055 Stromboli. +39 090 986204 Palladium guides
Sicilia
Islas Eolias
Shop
GIOIELLI DEL MARE This handcrafted-jewelry store in Lipari is undoubtedly an essential stop for finding a special souvenir from the Aeolian Islands. Its goldsmiths specialize in creating the fede eoliana, or Eolian ring, which is made by melting down precious metals and volcanic lava at a temperature of many thousands of degrees. Via Garibaldi, 8, 98055 Marina Corta–Lipari. ENOTECA LIPARI A wine from Sicily or the Malvasia delle Lipari region in the Aeolian Islands is one of the best souvenirs you can take away from these lands, and this wine store in Lipari is a great place to buy a bottle. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 223, 98055 Lipari. +39 090 985 2286
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Palladium guides
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Islas Eolias
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Palladium guides
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ctress Ingrid Bergman and director Roberto Rossellini spent the most explosive four months of their relationship on this island, shooting the film Stromboli. The best part? This legendary destination for movie buffs and adventurers does not seem to have changed much since that distant spring of 1949. On the island, electricity is still a very valuable resource, as is water, which is brought in on a tanker. On the black sandy beach, the fishermen haul their nets ashore, as carefree as they were back in the day. The charm is broken only by the whistle of the ferry as it arrives from Lipari, announcing a crowd of tourists. Not far from the Church of San Vincenzo is a door with a plaque reading: “This is where Bergman and Rossellini stayed in 1949.” This is Casa Rossa, which once housed the Ingrid Bergman cultural association. It hosted
exhibitions and other events based around the cult film until some time ago. The most exciting thing to do on Stromboli is to climb the volcano. But its almost 1,000-meter (3,300 foot) elevation and the African heat – increased by the high temperatures given off by the island’s volcanic soil and gas emissions – means the hike is not suitable for everyone. In fact, no one can climb it without a guide. The ascent begins at 6pm so that you arrive at the summit in the middle of the night and can admire the eruptions in all their splendor. The trail winds its way through solidified lava fields, the same ones the Swedish actress walked through. When she did so, her blonde hair caused quite a stir among the women observing strict mourning, their heads covered with scarves as black as the landscape.
Estrómboli, a movie location 16
Palladium guides
Taormina the pearl of Etna Sicilia
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his city, which takes its name from Mount Taurus, is located on the east coast of Sicily, just off the tip of the boot of the Italian peninsula. Located on a cliff, with balconies and gardens facing the sea, it has always charmed writers, musicians, philosophers, nobles, scientists, singers, and Hollywood stars. Among these figures is Goethe, who described it as “a paradise on Earth,” as well as Ernest Hemingway, who said: “She is so pretty, it hurts to look.”
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Taormina
See & do
GREEK THEATER OF TAORMINA Constructed in the Hellenistic period, this site was almost entirely rebuilt during the Roman era. At that time, it was used for gladiatorial battles. Some of the Corinthian columns that once stood on the wall behind the stage remain, making it an incomparable setting for large-scale events such as the Taormina Film Fest. A privileged enclave from which you can also enjoy spectacular views of the Etna volcano. Via del Teatro Greco, 1, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 23220 BELVEDERE DI VIA PIRANDELLO This large terrace suspended between the sky and sea at the top of Via Pirandello overlooks one of the most
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charming enclaves of Taormina. From here you can see Isola Bella, one of the most-photographed Sicilian tourist spots. During the city’s long summers, the square is crowded with tourists and locals late into the night. Via Luigi Pirandello, 83-85, 98039 Taormina. ISOLA BELLA You can reach this island on foot from the coast of Taormina when the sea isn’t covering the narrow passage. But it is best to take a boat trip to explore not just the island, but Capo Taormina too. You can also see the Grotta Azzurra sea cave, famous for its transparent waters, which are ideal for diving or snorkeling. Isola Bella, 98039 Taormina. Palladium guides
Taormina
Eat & drink
LA CAPINERA La Capinera is one of the most beautiful Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy. You can eat accompanied by sea views both from the outdoor terrace and from the indoor dining room. The menu is based on Mediterranean cuisine with creative touches from chef Pietro D’Agostino. Via Nazionale, 177, 98039 Taormina. +39 338 158 8013 PRINCIPE CERAMI This former Dominican convent was converted into a hotel in 1896 by Sicilian nobleman Prince Domenico Rosso di Cerami, hence its name. Today, it’s the Four Seasons at the Palazzo San Domenico, which TV fans will recognize as the main location of season two of The White Lotus. Run by chef Massimo Mantarro, its Michelin-starred restaurant offers typical Sicilian cuisine with an innovative twist. Piazza S. Domenico de Guzman, 5, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 613310
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CINQUE ARCHI With beautiful views of the sea and Mount Etna, Cinque Archi serves classic cuisine with a focus on fish and seafood, as well as a large selection of raw fish dishes. If you are looking for a romantic atmosphere, we suggest booking one of the tables on the small balcony. Piazza IX Aprile, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 628722 MALVASIA For 50 years, chef Eleonora Noto has been serving delicious local recipes on a daily basis with passion and care. These include eggplant parmesan, spaghetti with sardines, pine nuts and raisins, and maccheroni alla norma with ricotta cheese melted in the oven. Via Apollo Arcageta, 8, Taormina. +39 0942 625858 OSTERIA DA RITA DAL 1991 Osteria Da Rita dal 1991 is the perfect example of a classic and earthy restaurant, with no stars, but always among the best rated in the area. One of the big hits is the pasta with clams. Via Calapitrulli, 3, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 681015 IL GABBIANO In this restaurant you can breathe and feel Sicily through the traditional recipes served with a creative twist and its beautiful view over the bay to Isola Bella. Via Nazionale, 115, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 625128 Palladium guides
Taormina
Shop
LORENZO CAMARDA Shoe lovers, both male and female, should not miss out on visiting this boutique, which specializes in original, completely handmade leather designs. Corso Umberto, 16, 98039 Taormina. +39 340 787 6512 PINOCCHIO Children and Pinocchio fans of all ages should not miss this store full of games, wooden objects, and puppets inspired by Carlo Collodi’s legendary character. Corso Umberto, 196, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 24010 IMPERIAL Fashionistas seeking the latest trends should take time to stop at Imperial, a boutique specializing in stylish clothing and accessories for men, women, and children. Corso Umberto, 174/B, 98039 Taormina. +39 0942 261564
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Taormina 4
1. Greek Theater of Taormina 2. Isola Bella 3. Belvedere di Via Pirandello
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Palladium guides
Taormina
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he vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna are considered privileged lands for wine production, thanks to their nutrient-rich volcanic soil, warm climate, and proximity to the sea. You can visit some of the region’s different wineries on organized tours. One of them, the beautiful Planeta Sciaranuova,
on the north side of Mount Etna, has garnered fame following its appearance in the series The White Lotus. Two wines from this winery are worthy of proper tasting: Planeta Carricante Sicilia ‘Eruzione 1614’ 2018 (given a 91-point rating by Wine Spectator) and Planeta Nerello Mascalese Sicilia ‘Eruzione 1614’ 2018 (rated 90 points by Wine Spectator).
The wines of Etna
Palladium guides
Catania “the city of the elephant”
Sicilia
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he second-mostpopulous city in Sicily after Palermo is sometimes busier than the capital, due to its better and more-affordable air connections with the Italian mainland and the rest of the world. Dominated by the Etna volcano, Catania is a cradle of the baroque with a distinctive seafront and ebullient nightlife, but it is also known as “the city of the elephant”. Why? In the center of Piazza del Duomo you’ll find the Elephant Fountain, which features a black basalt statue of the animal.
Palladium guides
Sicilia
Catania
See & do
THE CATHEDRAL Located in the Piazza Duomo, the most important church in the city has been destroyed and rebuilt several times as a result of damage by earthquakes and eruptions by Etna. Both Norman and baroque styles coexist here. The dome, which dates back to 1802, has a 7.5ton bell, the third-largest in Italy, after those of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Duomo in Milan. Piazza del Duomo, 95100 Catania. +39 339 485 9942 VIA ETNEA, GIARDINO BELLINI, AND CORSO ITALIA One of the streets that converges on the Piazza Duomo is Via Etnea, the most important historical thoroughfare in Catania. A nice way to get the pulse of the city and mingle with the locals is to take a long walk along Corso Italia, stopping at the Giardino Bellini, a former stately villa converted into a public park and an oasis away from city life. From the two hills that make up this place you can enjoy evocative views of the sea, the city, and Mount Etna. Via Etnea, 95121 Catania. Giardino Bellini, Via Etnea, 292, 95131 Catania. +39 095 320761 Corso Italia, 95129 Catania.
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ACI TREZZA AND ACI CASTELLO After leaving the old town, head towards the promenade to take some snapshots of its wonderful palm trees and continue to the coastal villages of Aci Trezza and Aci Castello. The latter owes its name to its Norman castle, which stands on top of a basalt rock rising from the sea. Destroyed by Frederick II of Sicily after a long siege, its remains now house the Civic Museum. Aci Trezza boasts distinctive rock formations in the sea, which inspired Giovanni Verga to write I Malavoglia, a masterpiece of Italian realism. Aci Trezza and Aci Castello, 95021 Catania. Palladium guides
Sicilia
Catania
Eat & drink
SCARDACI ICE CAFÉ This is the ideal place for breakfast, a quick lunch, or a snack. In Italy, this concept is encapsulated in the words tavola calda, which literally means ‘hot table’. Its menu ranges from homemade ice cream and pizza sold by the slice to croissants and other sweet and savory delights. Via Etnea, 158, 95131 Catania. +39 095 313131 SAVIA For more than a century, this pastry store and bar has been a meeting point for all generations at all hours of the day. The reason? It is open from morning coffee to aperitif time (which in Italy starts from 6pm) or, in other words, from the arancina to the cannoli. Via Etnea, 300/302/304, Via Umberto I, 2/4/6, 95131 Catania. +39 095 322335 LE MUSE The hits at this typical restaurant in Aci Castello are the pizza marinara and the spaghetti with clams, and in the dessert section, the millefeuille tart and the Sicilian cassata sponge cake. Via Provinciale, 216, 95021 Aci Castello. +39 095 277089 ME CUMPARI TURIDDU With its antique chandeliers, this restaurant takes you back to
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traditional Sicily. The cuisine focuses on the typical specialties of the island, while there’s also a simple and more affordable bistro menu. You’ll find a delicatessen and a cocktail bar open from 11.30am until the early hours of the next day too.Piazza Turi Ferro, 36, 95124 Catania. +39 095 715 0142 IL MORO DI TREZZA For good fresh fish dishes, Il Moro di Trezza, located on the seafront at Aci Trezza, is a must in the area. Don’t miss the linguini with lobster. Via Lungomare Dei Ciclopi, 153, 95021 Aci Trezza. +39 095 711 6965 Palladium guides
Sicilia
Catania
Shop LA RINASCENTE Built in 1959, this four-story department store located in the heart of Catania offers fashion for women, men, and children, beauty products, a gourmet corner, and the Sicily Food&Craft project, dedicated to local gastronomy and handicrafts. Via Etnea, 95121 Catania. MARELLA FERRERA While Catania designer Marella Ferrera’s creations may not be within reach of all budgets, visiting her atelier is an experience not to be missed. Piazza Cardinale Pappalardo, 27, 95131 Catania. +39 095 250 3188
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Catania
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Palladium guides
Catania
in focus
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he term ‘movida’ in Italian refers to nightlife. And the nightlife in Catania is one of the most fun in Sicily, running non-stop from Monday to Sunday. It all starts at 9.30pm, when the restaurants serving dinner start to fill up. Later, people usually head to a cocktail bar with live music, or one of the classic kiosks located all around the city. The party zones to bear in mind include Vico Santa Filomena, Piazza Teatro Massimo (for the youngest revelers), and the Archi della Marina area, which is near the port, for a more romantic night out. Among the city’s most popular bars are Razmataz and Collage Boutique. If you manage to stay up until dawn, you can witness one of the most spectacular sunrises in the city from San Giovanni Li Cuti.
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Ragusa for lovers of the baroque, food, and TV A
ffected by the earthquake of 1693, Ragusa is divided into two areas: Ragusa Superiore the modern part of the city, perched on a hill and a modern and well-laid-out villa; and Ragusa Ibla, the old town, which houses most of the top attractions in this part of Sicily and comprises an intricate labyrinth of alleys above the valley, filled with baroque-style buildings and gray stone houses. In the surrounding area, you can admire beautiful examples of typical architecture, try the famous Modica chocolate, and see some of the locations from the TV show Inspector Montalbano first hand.
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Palladium guides
Sicilia
Ragusa
See & do
RAGUSA IBLA One of the most charming places in the historic center of Ragusa is Piazza Duomo. Here you find the San Giorgio Cathedral, which dates from the mid-18th century and has a fabulous neoclassical dome and wonderful stained-glass windows. Its façade is a convex shape and supported by a series of narrowing Corinthian columns, which have striking cornices at their joints. Another essential corner is the Ibleo
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Garden, located at the eastern end of the old town and dating from the 19th century. Inside is a hotel that was once a monastery. Ragusa Ibla, 0932, Ragusa.
chocolate, you can take a guided tour and learn how it is created using the ancient cold cocoa process, following Mesoamerican tradition. Corso Umberto I, 159, 97015 Modica.
ANTICA DOLCERIA BONAJUTO An obligatory stop for those with a sweet tooth, this chocolate factory in Modica dates back to 1880 and is the oldest in Sicily and one of the first in Italy. As well as tasting its exclusive
SCICLI Scicli’s old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. Completely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693, this village is a true baroque jewel. Start your
visit at Piazza Italia, where beautiful buildings from the 1700s are located, and continue to the baroque-style Mother Church of Sant’Ignazio. Also worth a stop along the way is the Palazzo Beneventano, one of the most significant baroque monuments in the entire Ragusa area. Scicli, 97018 Ragusa. PUNTA SECCA This small fishing district, which forms a tiny part of Santa
Croce Camerina, has become popular in recent years thanks to the success of the TV show Inspector Montalbano. In fact, the titular character’s house is located in a small villa in the town square. Among the other more Instagrammable areas are the lighthouse, the small port, and the 16th-century Scalambri Tower. Punta Secca, 970171 Santa Croce di Camerina. Palladium guides
Sicilia
Ragusa
Eat & drink
LOCANDA DON SERAFINO Located in the former ground floor of the Church of the Miracles, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant relies on excellent ingredients interpreted by chef Vincenzo Candiano. The menu includes both seafood and mountain dishes and more than 200 wines from all over the world to accompany them. Via XI Febbraio, 15, 97100 Ragusa Ibla. +39 0932 220065 I BANCHI I Banchi surprises with both its location – on the ground floor of a 20th-century building in the heart of Ragusa Ibla – and its food. Chef Ciccio Sultano has opted for traditional cuisine with modern touches, along with an interesting wine and cocktail list. Via Orfanotrofio, 39, 97100 Ragusa. +39 0932 655000
tuna tartare, cannoli and local Marsala wine. Piazza Faro, 3/A, 97017 Punta Secca. +39 0932 916034 LA GROTTA This establishment in Scicli specializes in zero-kilometer raw ingredients from both land and sea. Undoubtedly a place to consider if you want to sample the tastiest food in Sicily. Via Dolomiti, 62, 97018 Scicli. +39 0932 931363 GELATERIA MASTROCILIEGIA A benchmark for Sicilian artisan ice cream, this gelateria offers a wide variety of flavors, in particular fruity ones. You can try them in tubs, cones, or inside a Sicilian brioche. Corso XXV Aprile, 96, 97100 Ragusa. +39 333 672 0622
FATTORIA DELLE TORRI This restaurant is a must during summer when it serves dinner outside under a charming lemon grove. Among its star dishes are baccalà in umido (steamed cod), and pasta with cabbage and pecorino cheese. Vico Napolitano, 14, 97015 Modica. +39 0932 751286 SCJABICA CUCINA COSTIERA A place of pilgrimage for many who visit Inspector Montalbano’s house, this restaurant stands out for its
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Palladium guides
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Ragusa
Shop
CINABRO CARRETTIERI This store is also a workshop for painters and restorers of the area’s traditional and colorful horsedrawn carriages. It has reinvented itself by creating modern designs and decorative objects, inspired by the colors and motifs of these carts. Among the firms with which the artisans here have collaborated are Dolce & Gabbana and SMEG. Via Orfanotrofio, 22, 97100 Ragusa Ibla. CIVICO 14 This unique place offers both wines and design objects, as well as
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traditional desserts, such as delicious chocolates and panettones. It’s a mecca for gourmets and those with a sweet tooth. Via B. Brin, 14, 97010 Marina di Ragusa. +39 333 7486806 L’ARTE DEL RICAMO Sicily has a long tradition of lace and embroidery, and one of the most prestigious types comes from Ragusa Ibla. A handcrafted piece from this store makes an excellent souvenir with local flavor. Corso XXV Aprile, 10, 97100 Ragusa. +39 0932 220716 Palladium guides
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1. Ragusa Ibla 2. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto 3. Scicli 4. Punta Secca
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5. Locanda Don Serafino 6. I Banchi 7. Fattoria delle Torri 8. Scjabica Cucina Costiera 9. La Grotta 10. Gelateria Mastrociliegia
11. Cinabro Carrettieri 12. Civico 14 13. L’arte del ricamo
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Palladium guides
Ragusa
in focus
R
agusa and some of the villages in the area found fame as a result of writer Andrea Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano saga, which was turned into a TV series of the same name in 1999. Fans will easily recognize Montalbano’s house in Punta Secca, Piazza Vigata (an invented name) in Ragusa Ibla, the Vigata police station in Scicli, and the various corners of Modica that appear in the TV adaptation. They’ll also finally be able to taste the recipes they have seen or read about in some of the local
trattorie. Inspector Montalbano’s love of gastronomy is a feature throughout the books, which describe the dishes he eats at his favorite restaurant or at the home of Adelina, his cook, in great detail. What you may not know is that the inspector’s last name is a tribute to Spanish writer Manuel Vázquez Montalbán, creator of the detective Pepe Carvalho, another investigator fond of cooking and literature. Like Camilleri, Montalbano is an avid reader of Vázquez Montalbán’s novels.
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Palladium guides
Agrigento a journey to ancient Greece Sicilia
W
ith barely 60,000 inhabitants, Agrigento enjoys worldwide fame thanks to its spectacular Valley of the Temples. Every guidebook or article about the island includes a beautiful image of this archaeological site. The area also offers many wonderful artistic and natural gems, allowing you to get the most from your experience.
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Palladium guides
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Agrigento
See & do
VALLEY OF THE TEMPLES This is the best-preserved complex of Greek temples in the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1977. If you travel to Sicily in summer, a visit to this archaeological site at sunset is highly recommended, allowing you to admire the ancient buildings in a special light and enjoy wonderful views of the surrounding valley. Once the sun sets, the night casts its spell: from July to September, the park is open from 8.30am to 10pm, with final departure at 11pm during the week and at midnight on weekends and holidays. Among the must-sees are the Tempio Di Giunone (the Temple of the Goddess Hera). A large part of the colonnade is still intact, along with an ancient altar on which animals were sacrificed and offered to the god of the temple. Also not to be missed, the Temple of Concord is the most famous ruin at the site and one of the bestpreserved ancient Greek temples. 92100 Agrigento. REALMONTE SALT CATHEDRAL Located 60 meters (200 feet) underground in a gigantic salt mine, this cathedral is undoubtedly one of the most amazing attractions in the Agrigento area. Meticulously carved by the mine workers themselves, it is reached via a series of different
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galleries and tunnels. You can only visit on the last Wednesday of each month, and you need to reserve tickets in advance, with no more than 30 people allowed to enter. Via delle Miniera, 92010 Realmonte. + 39 0922 816244 SCALA DEI TURCHI The main feature of this natural monument is its beautiful white cliff, which rises between two fine-sand beaches and strongly resembles a
staircase forged by the erosion of wind and sea over the centuries. The best way to see it is from the beach, via the Lido Scala dei Turchi, which you can access free of charge. For some time now, climbing up the cliff has been totally forbidden and anyone caught breaking the rules risks a fine or even jail, so be sure to respect the signs and fences. Lido Scala dei Turchi SP68, 182, 92010 Realmonte. +39 0922 814563 Palladium guides
Sicilia
Agrigento
Eat & drink
OSTERIA DEI FOLLI This osteria specializes in traditional Sicilian seasonal cuisine, grilled and prepared with zero-kilometer products. In fact, almost all of its ingredients come from the restaurant’s own organic garden. Piazza Umberto I, 27, 92010 Realmonte. +39 0922 814185 IL RE DI GIRGENTI Both on its wine list and menu, Il Re di Girgenti offers dishes linked to local traditions, while others play with Arab influences. Its main attraction is the magical view of the temples. Via Panoramica dei Templi 51, 92100 Agrigento. +39 0922 401388
LIDO SCALA DEI TURCHI This establishment is a must and a good choice if you visit Scala dei Turchi, not only because of its privileged location – where you can watch a wonderful sunset – but also its delicious thin-and-crispy pizzas. SP68, 182, 92010 Realmonte. +39 0922 814563
IL MOLO Located on the seafront, opposite the small tourist port of San Leone, this restaurant has a charming summer terrace where you can enjoy a wide selection of regional fish and meat recipes. Via Falcone Borsellino, 92100 San Leone, Agrigento. +39 0922 412095
MAJATA BEACH Majata Beach is another great place to eat before or after visiting the Scala dei Turchi, offering good value for money, an idyllic setting, and an unpretentious menu. The delicious seafood pasta is of particular note. Contrada Punta Grande, 59, 92010 Realmonte. +39 0922 816485
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Palladium guides
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Agrigento
Shop
SOUVENIR DI SICILIA This place is very different from the usual souvenir stores. Almost everything is handmade, even the fridge magnets, and it can also ship your purchases abroad. Among the jewels in its crown are the famous Teste di Moro – carefully crafted ceramic pieces that have achieved worldwide fame since their appearance in The White Lotus. Parking Valle dei Templi Porta V, 92100 Agrigento AG
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Palladium guides
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1. Valley of the Temples 2. Realmonte Salt Cathedral 3. Scala dei Turchi
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4. Osteria dei folli 5. Il re di Girgenti 6. Il Molo 7. Lido Scala dei Turchi 8. Majata Beach
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9. Souvenir di Sicilia
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Palladium guides
Agrigento
en el foco
S
an Leone is “the beach of Agrigento,” given that the city itself has no access to the sea. Diving into the turquoise waters here is the most comfortable and practical way to enjoy a few days of sun and sand after visiting the Valley of the Temples. The village comes to life when summer arrives – so much so that its population rises from 4,000 to 30,000 in high season, thanks to its miles of fine sandy beaches and lively nightspots, where you can dance into the small hours of the morning. Many also fall in love with its typical kiosks on the promenade. Here you can take a pleasant walk, caressed by the nighttime breeze, and watching the turquoise “African sea”, as local Nobel Prize-winning writer Luigi Pirandello once described it.
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Palladium guides
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hideaway Morgantina
the
While little known to most, Morgantina is one of the most important areas of ancient Greek remains in Sicily. The site was once quite large, as is clear from its walls and the remains of a 2,000-capacity, 4th-century-BC theater. Located inland, in the village of Aidone (Enna), it connected the main cardinal points of the island. A visit begins at the agora, the public square, where daily life took place and you can still make out the old divisions between stalls. In one of its corners, you can identify the public buildings of the gymnasium and the bouleuterion, where the boule, or council of the 500, would meet. Following the quadrangular perimeter, a succession of porticoes leads to the living quarters, as well as barns and ovens. Some houses, such as Ganimede, still preserve traces of mosaic, Doric capitals, and other ornamental elements. Several farmer’s huts are also to be found in this so-called “Sicilian Pompeii”, as well as an acropolis, a sacred complex of several temples dating back to the 6th century BC that sits atop Mount Citadella. 41
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Grand Palladium Sicilia Resort & Spa Viale Imera SS 131 Km 204.3 90010 Campofelice di Roccella. Palermo (Sicily). Phone: +39 0921 930011
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