Palladium Guides - Destination Mayan Riviera (English) by Palladium Hotel Group

Mayan Riviera

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Tulum

Puerto Morelos

Akumal

Cozumel

Playa del Carmen

Chichén Itzá

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Mayan Riviera

The Mayan Riviera is an explosion of nature you will never forget: get ready to swim in unforgettable jungle spots, dive alongside turtles and colorful fish in crystal clear waters, and contemplate infinite blue skies and ancient Mayan heritage, such as the exceptional ruins at Chichén Itzá. From Puerto Morelos to Punta Allen, this little piece of eastern coastline on the Yucatán peninsula is a sparkling destination filled with archeological zones, lakes and underground caves. Come and explore it with us, making stops at privileged sites such as the pristine Sian Ka’an reserve, the spectacular Cenotes Route, and the relaxed restaurants of bohemian Tulum.

Mayan Riviera 3

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Mayan Riviera

1. Sian Ka’an (which in Yucatec Maya means ‘gateway to heaven’) is a captivating protected natural area that has been declared a World Heritage Site. 2. Yal-Kú lagoon is a stunningly beautiful secret Eden in which you can swim with colorful tropical fish. 3. The turquoise waters of the National Reef Park of Puerto Morelos are part of the Great Mayan Reef (the second biggest in the world). 4. Found throughout the area, cenotes are a major attraction of the Mayan Riviera. Some, such as the incredible Cenote Dos Ojos, are genuine underground oases. 5. Don’t leave without trying Tikin Xic, a traditional dish of fish (usually red snapper or grouper) marinaded in bitter orange, annatto and spices.

DID YOU KNOW…? The Mesoamerican Reef stretches 1,000 kilometers (600 miles) and passes along the whole length of the Mayan Riviera.

at a glance

In Tulum, 9,216 people (38%) speak one of the Mayan languages. For 1,066 of them, this is their only language, given they do not speak Spanish. The Mayan Riviera enjoys a pleasant average temperature of 26º (79°F) all year round. No part of the territory exceeds an altitude of 25 meters (80 feet) above sea level. There are about

600 cenotes

on the coast of Quintana Roo, although very few are part of tourism projects.

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TulumRustic & glam Mayan Riviera

ver the past decade, the once-sleepy coastal community of Tulum has become one of the most stylish destinations in Mexico, with picturesque palm-fringed beaches and a distinctive rustic glam aesthetic attracting fashionable New Yorkers, yoga-centric celebrities, and in-the-know foodies from across the world. The main hub for dining, nightlife, and shopping is Zona Hotelera, a rugged strip of coastline just south of Tulum’s city center, where a string of palm-roofed hotels, rustic open-air restaurants, and sand-floored bars adjoin a long stretch of white-sand beach. During the day, you’ll see swimsuit-clad tourists lazily pedaling their bicycles from beach clubs to yoga class or browsing the upscale boho boutiques along the coastal highway. At night, the same strip of jungle comes to life, with solar-powered Edison bulbs, mezcal cocktails, and millennial-age DJs lighting up the most stylish nightspots in town. While you could spend days exploring Zona Hotelera, Tulum’s city center, long overlooked by tourists, has several notable cafés, bars, and restaurants, which draw a low-key local crowd. 5

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Mayan RivieraTulum

See & Do

TULUM ARCHEOLOGICAL ZONE Just north of Tulum’s city center, the remains of a former Maya fortress and seaport stand on a rocky cliff beside the Caribbean Sea. The port flourished between the 12th and 16th centuries, when most Maya cities had already disappeared, and it remained partially inhabited after the Spanish conquest of Mexico. Another highlight is the Temple of the Frescoes, which houses a small but well-preserved collection of murals, including a depiction of the goddess Ixchel. See the site from a different vantage point at neighboring Playa Paraíso. Carretera Federal, Cancún–Chetumal Km 230, 307 SIAN KA’AN Spider monkeys, flamingos, tapirs, manatees, American crocodiles, and coatis are among the thousands of animal species that make their home amid the tropical forests, mangroves, marshes, palm savannahs, and lagoons of Sian Ka’an, the largest protected wilderness area in the Mexican Caribbean. Stretching along 120 kilometers (75 miles)

of coastline, the reserve includes a large swath of the spectacular Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, where you’ll find a plethora of sea life, as well as gorgeous and almost entirely deserted white-sand beaches. Felipe Carrillo Puerto. +52 984 145 6696 GRAND CENOTE Just outside Tulum, a cluster of gorgeous natural swimming holes is connected via caverns and rustic wooden walkways, surrounded by flowering plants and vines. The roof of the caverns is vaulted over the water, so you don’t need diving gear to explore the caves and their towering stalactites and stalagmites, though this is a popular spot for cavern divers, too. On the highway between Cobá and the city of Tulum, it is one of the most accessible and best-known

cenotes, so is often very busy, but there are fewer crowds in the morning or late afternoon. Quintana Roo 109. +52 998 980 0332 COBÁ ARCHEOLOGICAL ZONE At the ancient Maya city of Cobá, a shaded footpath leads visitors past temples, a ball court, carved stelae, and old stone causeways before arriving at the site’s impressive main pyramid, Nohoch Mul. It is one of the highest Maya pyramids on the Yucatán peninsula and visitors are permitted to climb its impossibly steep staircase to the crowning temple. The ascent is challenging and just a touch perilous, but it’s well worth the effort: 12 stories high, Nohoch Mul soars far above the jungle canopy. Charmingly, you can also explore the site by bike. Carretera Federal Tulum 307 Palladium guides

Tulum

TAQUERÍA DON BETO You’ll often see local families, taxi drivers, and police cars pulling up to the roadside eateries just across the highway from the entrance to Tulum’s archeological site. Noteworthy here is Taquería Don Beto, where excellent Yucatecstyle cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork seasoned with achiote), relleno negro (a black-sauced turkey stew), lechon (suckling pig), and venison are prepared in the traditional style. Don Beto often runs out of food by the start of the afternoon, so get there early to order your choice of meat in a plate of tacos, made with tiny handmade tortillas and accompanied with diced onion, cilantro, and a traditional superspicy habanero salsa. Carr. Tulum–Cancún 121, Chacalal

Eat & Drink

HARTWOOD From its handmade wood-fired oven to its jungle-shaded outdoor dining room to its use of assiduously sourced local ingredients, Hartwood set the tone for Tulum’s culinary scene when it opened in 2010. Even today, it remains the gold standard in Tulum dining, with a rustic yet surprisingly sophisticated menu that changes nightly, depending on the season and the day’s catch. A unique place to dine, it has a rustic ambience

that is entirely authentic: Hartwood is off the grid, and even the soft lighting in the dining room is powered entirely by solar energy. Carr. Tulum–Boca Paila Km 7-6 ARCA Overseen by chef Jose Luis Hinostroza, an alum of Alinea in Chicago and Noma in Copenhagen, among other celebrated spots, Arca brings a touch of fine-dining sensibility to the rustic Tulum ethos. Like many kitchens in

town, Arca’s food is deeply tied to the smoky flavors imparted by its woodburning oven and grill, but the addition of sophisticated cooking techniques and the chef’s myriad international influences set the menu apart, with dishes such as soft-shell crab in amaranth tempura, roasted bone marrow with tamarind, and roasted local squash on the diverse and appealing menu. Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila Km 7.6. +52 984 177 2231

PAPAYA PLAYA PROJECT This long-running eco-hotel and beach club is located on one of the prettiest stretches of coast near Tulum. A tropical retreat by day, it transforms into one of Tulum’s most popular nightspots every Saturday, when a young and beautiful crowd comes to move to the beats of toptier DJs in a massive starlit dance party. It’s the kind of revelry that weather can’t stop, and it rages on, rain or shine. The monthly full-moon parties here are legendary, and worth attending for the spectacular backdrop of the Earth’s satellite shining over the open sea. Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila Km 4.5, Tulum Beach, Zona Costera

GITANO The music is ace, the cocktails are strong, and the crowd is handsome at this jungle-cool Tulum hot spot, which recently opened a new location in New York City. The party gets started around dinnertime, when the bar starts mixing up its signature mezcal cocktails and the kitchen shuttles plates of grilled fish, tacos, and bar snacks, such as grilled avocado served with ponzu and almonds, to tables of ready-for-fun diners. Things pick up a few hours later, especially during the weekly “Gypsy Disco” dance party, but you can expect a fashionable atmosphere here any night of the week. Beach Road Km 7 BATEY MOJITO AND GUARAPO BAR An ultra-casual bar in downtown Tulum, Batey consistently draws a big crowd of both tourists and locals with its convivial, unpretentious atmosphere. Mojitos are the house specialty, served in either the classic iteration, with rum and mint, or mixed up with more unusual ingredients, such as passionfruit; all are made with sugarcane syrup, which is freshly pressed in the back of a repurposed VW Beetle. It’s often packed to standing-room-only, and there are live bands almost every night of the week. Calle Centauro Sur, Tulum Centro Palladium guides

Mayan RivieraTulum

Shop

LA TROUPE The colorful clothing, accessories, and homeware at this standout boutique are all handmade in Mexico and designed by a team of Tulumbased Argentine expats. With a collection of womenswear inspired by traditional Mexican textiles and embroidery, this small label produces lightweight cotton sundresses, prettily embroidered purses, woven ponchos, and fringed shawls, among other perfect beachto-night-out attire, as well as products for the home, such as colorful embroidered pillowcases. It also has stores in Playa del Carmen and Valladolid. Av. Boca Paila Km 9.2, Tulum Beach, Zona Hotelera. +52 984 108 9442 CARAVANA Browse crepe sundresses, gauzy tunics, and fringed maxi dresses beneath a canopy of palms at this breezy boho-chic boutique, where, in a nod to the region’s agreeable weather, half the clothes racks are outdoors. The clothing line, which is overseen by Italian creative director Jacopo Janniello Ravagnan, is sold at some luxe online retailers but it’s far more exciting to shop for Caravana pieces in Tulum, where the collection was born. As well as womenswear, you’ll find a range of beachappropriate accessories and decorative items, such as

leather bracelets, wind chimes, and dreamcatchers. Av. Boca Paila Km 7.5. +52 984 132 0965 BENDITO TULUM This earthy Boca Paila boutique is quintessential Tulum, with strings of Edison bulbs hanging over the entryway, dreamcatchers swinging from the roof, creaky wood floors, and a fringe of palm trees surrounding the showroom. Naturally, it’s the place to stock up on Tulum essentials, with a fine selection of leather sandals and traditional Mexican huaraches, lightweight sundresses, cover-ups, brimmed hats, beaded necklaces, and leather bangles from local designers. Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila Km. 8.4, Tulum Beach. +52 984 151 0582 WILDSEA Walking by, you might mistake this little store for a beach cottage, with its warm lighting, draped windows, and white porch outside the front door. It’s an appropriately attractive-yetcasual setting for the boutique’s romantic selection of swimsuits, lightweight dresses, gauzy wraps, handwoven shawls, and beach towels. Natural fibers, feminine cuts, and subdued colors dominate the selection, which represents a range of designers, both local and international. Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila Km 7.5, Tulum Palladium guides

Tulum

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1. Tulum Archeological Zone 2. Sian Ka’an 3. Grand Cenote 4. Cobá Archeological Zone

5. Hartwood 6. Arca 7. Taquería Don Beto 8. Papaya Playa Project 9. Gitano 10. Batey Mojito and Guarapo Bar

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11. La Troupe 12. Caravana 13. Bendito Tulum 14. Wildsea

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Tulum

Spotlight

n the Madrid Codex, one of only three surviving Maya books from the pre-Columbian era, there are instructions for keeping bees. For the ancient Maya, honey was not only a cherished foodstuff but an important remedy, used to treat a range of ailments. Throughout the Yucatán peninsula, the Maya gathered honey from several species of tiny stinger-less bees, which are often referred to by their genus, Melipona. Also called Mayan bees, Melipona are native to the Yucatán peninsula, and their honey is believed to be both more flavorful and more nutritious than the honey collected from European bees. Some Maya communities continue to cultivate Melipona in the traditional method, keeping them in hollowed-out tree trunks

and harvesting honey once or twice a year. Hives typically produce only a small amount of honey annually, around one or two liters (four to eight cups). Already a precious resource, it’s scarcer now, as European honey bees become more abundant. Here, as across the world, native bees are vital to the health of the local ecosystem, and are also of enormous cultural value to the people of the Yucatán peninsula. Since the introduction of European honey bees in the 18th century, Melipona communities have deteriorated. Thankfully, efforts to provide habitats and refuge for them are under way, and there are several collectives of Maya beekeepers selling Melipona honey across Quintana Roo, giving hope for the future of these curious social insects.

Melipona

the Maya Bee

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PuertoThe Morelos most authentic vibe Mayan Riviera

espite its location between the sparkling resort destinations of Cancún and Playa del Carmen, the small seaside community of Puerto Morelos still feels like an old-fashioned fishing village. Stroll along the oceanfront promenade to see boats bobbing in the shallow turquoise waters, families strolling along the pier, and kids roller-skating on the city’s main plaza. Enjoying the old-school ambience is reason enough to visit Puerto Morelos, but most people come to swim and snorkel along the barrier reef, which is located just half a kilometer (⅓ mile) offshore. Designated a national protected area, it is known as one of the best places for snorkeling in the Riviera Maya, with calm, clear waters and a multitude of fish and other sea life darting amid the coral. 11

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Mayan Riviera Puerto Morelos

See & Do

NATIONAL REEF PARK OF PUERTO MORELOSS Snorkeling and diving within the National Reef Park of Puerto Morelos is the principal reason visitors come to this seaside village. Just a half kilometer (⅓ mile) offshore, the reef is among the most accessible and largest along the Riviera Maya, at some points stretching to a giant 30 meters (100 feet) across. Because of the reef’s protected status, fishing and boat traffic is limited in these waters, resulting in excellent visibility and a noticeably healthier ecosystem. There are also numerous dive sites, including a wreck dive, that are popular with day-trippers. RUTA DE LOS CENOTES Just outside Puerto Morelos, a paved highway heads deep into the jungle. Dotted on both sides by cenotes, this road was recently given the name La Ruta de los Cenotes, or the Cenotes Route. As you drive, you’ll see signs for the many swimming holes along this scenic and surprisingly unvisited stretch, from marvelous water-filled caverns, such as Siete Bocas and Kin Ha, to open swimming holes, such as Las Mojarras and Verde Lucero. Some are rustic spots, tucked down jungle-clad dirt roads, while others, such as the multifaceted cenote and ecopark Selvatica, boast zip lines, ATV rentals, and snack bars.

Eat&Drink

PUNTA CORCHO At first glance, Punta Corcho resembles the other breezy palmroofed eateries in Puerto Morelos. Then you start to notice the details: cool geometric tile floors, rustic-chic wood tables and a noticeably creative menu of mezcal cocktails. Run by Mexico City-based chefs Salvador Orozco and Daniel Ovadía, this spot ably blends the low-key charms of Puerto Morelos with the sensibilities of the capital, with a menu that relies heavily on fresh fish and local produce. Try wood-roasted scallops, lobster pizza, or octopus ceviche, accompanied by a Paloma Negra, a cocktail made with mezcal, grapefruit juice, and dark bee. Av. Rafael Melgar SM. 01 MZ. 6 Lote 01-01. +52 998 872 8450 LE CHIQUE Chicago-based chef and TV host Rick Bayless has said that his most memorable meal in Mexico was at Le Chique, an upscale fine-dining restaurant in the Azul Beach Resort, just a few minutes north of Puerto Morelos. Here, in an elegant round dining room, chef Jonatán Gómez Luna Torres uses sophisticated modern cooking techniques to reinterpret regional Mexican flavors, creating a memorable, at times playful, and wholly creative multi-plate dining experience. In addition to Bayless’s endorsement, it’s the only restaurant in the region to have been listed on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Carr. Cancún–Puerto Morelos. +52 998 872 8450

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Mayan Riviera

Puerto Morelos 4

1. National Reef Park of Puerto Morelos 2. Ruta de los Cenotes

3. Punta Corcho 4. Le Chique

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Puerto Morelos

Spotlight

he limestone bedrock of the Yucatán peninsula is speckled with deep natural sinkholes, dry caves, and caverns. Locally known as cenotes, a term derived from the Yucatec Mayan word ts’onot, these sinkholes formed over many thousands of years as cracks in the limestone sediment created underground rivers, which then caused the ground to collapse. Unusual, eerie, and often unimaginably beautiful, cenotes are among the most memorable places to visit within the Riviera Maya. Whether dry or filled with water, most cenotes are incredibly deep, and many are joined by underground rivers that reach as far as 100 meters (300 feet) below the surface. The fresh water that fills these wells has

been filtered through the earth, so it is exceptionally pure, clear, and cool, with sunlight dancing off the caverns to create spectacular colors that often rival the stunning green and turquoise shades of the Caribbean Sea. Many scuba divers take a break from the coral reefs to visit the stalactite-filled underwater rivers that run between cenotes; at most spots, you only need an open water dive certification to dive in the caverns. As well as being places of beauty, cenotes support isolated and unusual ecosystems, sheltering fish and aquatic plants that can survive only in these unique and ultra-pure environments. When visiting cenotes, even those with many visitors, it is important to respect their fragile ecosystems. Heed all posted signs, and don’t enter the water wearing bug repellent or sunscreen.

Cenotes 14

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Akumal Small-town ambience Mayan Riviera

ssingle unpaved road leads from the coastal highway to the beachfront village of Akumal. Though it was one of the first resort towns to be established along the Riviera Maya, Akumal was never as extensively developed as many neighboring communities. Even today, it retains a quaint small-town ambience, with sandy roads curving through town, a low-key beach lined with casual spots serving cheap beer and tacos, and a cozy local community. For visitors, the main attraction is Akumal Beach, a quiet stretch of white sand that stretches alongside an exceptionally calm bay, good for swimming and snorkeling. Charmingly, the name Akumal means “Land of Turtles”, and it isn’t uncommon to catch a glimpse of the town’s beloved namesake in the waters nearby, along with parrotfish, squid, and stingrays. 15

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Mayan Riviera Akumal

See & Do

PARQUE DOS OJOS Some of the region’s most beautiful cenotes are located just outside the town of Akumal, in an easily accessible and well-maintained ecopark called Dos Ojos. For swimming, Cenote Nicte Ha is an idyllic open-air pool, surrounded by lush foliage and blanketed with lily pads. Travel another half kilometer (⅓ mile) to find the twin cenotes Dos Ojos, for which the park is named. Both are semi-caved swimming holes filled with stalactites and stalagmites, and echoing with the cries of birds and bats. They are popular with cavern divers, who come to explore the underground canals between the cenotes. Carr. Federal Cancún–Tulum Km 124, Jacinto Pat

AKUMAL BAY On the low-key palm-fringed stretch of beach along Akumal Bay, it’s easy to imagine the Riviera Maya as it was years ago. Here, wooden fishing boats float in the shallow waters near the shore. Beachgoers sip drinks in casual open-air bars. Families stretch out towels in the shade of swaying palms. Groups of swimmers and snorkelers bob in the turquoise sea, hoping to catch a sight of the sea turtles that often glide through these waters. It’s a relaxed place to spend the day, though if you’re serious about spotting turtles, it’s best to get here early: the crowds are smaller and the visibility is better in the early morning. YAL-KÚ LAGOON To tthe north of Bahía de la Media Luna in Akumal, a lagoon formed where an underground river flows into the sea. There are strong currents from the sea near the shoreline, but the water is otherwise incredibly calm, making it a favorite spot for swimming and snorkeling within a unique fresh-meetssaltwater ecosystem. Though it’s rare to see turtles here, there are huge schools of vividly colored tropical fish darting between the rocks and within the roots of the mangroves around the lagoon’s edge.

Eat&Drink

TURTLE BAY BAKERY AND CAFÉ In a shady grove near Akumal Bay, this relaxed bakery and café has a pleasingly untouristy vibe. It’s a nice choice for a slice of cake or a scoop of ice cream in the afternoon, though you can also order a full meal from the bakery’s surprisingly robust breakfast and lunch menu, which includes comforting Mexican-inspired choices such as coconut shrimp and chilaquiles. It’s not uncommon to see locals greeting each other as they walk in, or gathering here for a chat and a cup of coffee at one of the colorful tables arranged around the patio dining room. Speaking of the coffee, it’s delicious. Yodzonot, 77776 Akumal. +52 984 875 9138 LA BUENA VIDA On Akumal’s quiet Bahia de la Media Luna, this bohemian beach bar is a mainstay for locals and visitors alike. The vibe is as casual as they come, with a sand floor, palm-shaded tables, and swings instead of stools circling the wood bar, where a team of ultra-chill bartenders pop caps off beer bottles. Though there’s no cover charge, La Buena Vida functions a bit like a beach club, with plenty of hammocks and lounge chairs set out on the sand, plus a nice blue-tiled swimming pool for patrons. If you want a bird’s-eye view of it all, climb up to the treehouse-esque ‘crow’s nest’, built right inside the bar. North Beach Road Lote 35. +52 984 875 9061 Palladium guides

Mayan Riviera

Akumal

1. Parque Dos Ojos 2. Akumal Bay 3. Yal-kú Lagoon 1 3

4. Turtle Bay Bakery and Café 5. La Buena Vida

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Akumal

Spotlight S

tretching more than 950 kilometers (600 miles) from the tip of the Yucatán peninsula to the Bay Islands in Honduras, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef is the largest reef in the Western Hemisphere and the second-largest barrier reef in the world. An estimated 500 fish species make their home amid the stony coral near the Yucatán peninsula, including moray eels, parrotfish, and manta rays. There are more than 1,000 manatees living within the reef system, and it is an important feeding ground for the whale shark, the world’s largest fish, particularly around Isla Mujeres and Isla Contoy. Sea turtles are among the most charismatic and beloved creatures of the barrier reef. They are an exciting but not altogether uncommon sight on dives and snorkeling expeditions around the Riviera Maya, where seven species of turtle, including leatherback, green, and

loggerhead, lay their eggs on the beaches between May and September. Sensitive to light and to human development, turtle populations have struggled as the coast develops, but efforts to protect their nesting grounds are increasing, as are coastal sanctuaries where turtles can safely lay eggs. Several segments of the reef, including the National Reef Park of Puerto Morelos, have been federally protected from overfishing and boating. In Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, among other areas, there has been a rise in sustainable fishing cooperatives, reducing destructive practices and bycatch. There are also some unique environmental proposals, such as the Underwater Museum of Art (MUSA), a reef-sustaining underwater sculpture garden near Isla Mujeres that seeks to draw scuba divers and snorkelers away from more delicate portions of the reef.

Sea turtles and the

Mesoamerican Barrier Reef

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Cozumel Top diving destination Mayan Riviera

eneath he impossibly azure waters that surround the island of Cozumel, a vast network of spectacular coral reefs brim with colorful plants, giant coral, and exotic sea creatures, from manta rays to sea turtles. The high visibility, variety of terrain, and astonishing biodiversity of these reefs have made Cozumel the top diving destination in Mexico, with a multitude of world-famous sites, including the Santa Rosa Wall. But diving isn’t the only reason to visit Cozumel. The island’s idyllic white-sand beaches are wonderful for swimming and snorkeling, there are interesting Maya ruins nestled in the jungle, and the ambience is surprisingly rustic. Despite its location and diminutive size, Cozumel is largely undeveloped, making it easy to find a secluded bay or quiet lookout, especially along the south side. That said, there’s plenty of activity in San Miguel Cozumel, the island’s main port and its biggest city, which is a hub for cruise ships and day-trippers.

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Mayan Riviera Cozumel

See & Do

SAN GERVASIO Cozumel was an important port, trading hub, and pilgrimage site for the Maya. In the island’s interior, the small city of San Gervasio, which archeologists believe was built in honor of the Maya goddess Ixchel, flourished during the Late Classic era and wasn’t abandoned until after the Spanish conquest. Most of the city was destroyed in the years following its demise, but it is nonetheless interesting to wander amid the foundations of the three building groups onsite, today covered in jungle and popular with wild iguanas. A distinguishing feature is the stone archway that marks the city’s entrance; it was reconstructed in the 1980s. SAN MIGUEL DE COZUMEL International cruise ships and local ferries from Playa del Carmen dock in San Miguel de Cozumel, the biggest city on the island. Catering to the influx of day-trippers, there are a plethora of chain restaurants, loud bars, and uninspired souvenir shops along the city’s waterfront. Even so, the gorgeous coastal waters and

low-key energy make it a nice place for a stroll, especially if there’s a breeze off the water. Just north of the ferry landing, the town’s central plaza, Parque Benito Juárez, has an oldfashioned Caribbean atmosphere, filled with palms and surrounded by ice-cream-colored buildings. SANTA ROSA WALL Just off the coast of Cozumel, the Santa Rosa sea wall plunges more than 900 meters (3,000 feet) into darkness. It’s one of the best-known dive sites on the island, with a brisk drift and a multitude of sea life teeming on and around the cliff. As you sink, you’ll see gorgeous coral and massive sea sponges clinging to the wall, as well as huge circuits of caverns and caves inhabited by moray eels, grouper, and sea turtles, among other marine life. With excellent clarity and exotic species sometimes making a visit, it’s one of Cozumel’s most beloved dives. PALANCAR REEF Many of Cozumel’s most famous dives are located within this massive reef, which stretches more than five

kilometers (three miles) from end to end. Too large to be seen in one, or two, or even three dives, it is generally divided into several sites. Palancar Gardens is an oft-recommended shallows dive, appropriate for novices, with tall coral formations and swimthroughs. Palancar Horseshoe is named for its semicircular wall, known for its tall coral spires, deep blue water, and wide variety of sea life. The reef is also a destination for those who don’t dive: Palancar Shallows is an excellent spot for snorkeling. PLAYA PALANCAR Off a rutted dirt road on the southwestern edge of Cozumel, this lovely palm-shaded white-sand beach is a popular place with local families looking for a low-key escape from the bustling cruise-shipaccessible beaches closer to San Miguel de Cozumel. It’s pleasingly relaxed, with rustic outdoor showers, a no- frills restaurant, and a familyfriendly crowd enjoying the powdery sand and warm aquamarine water. Though there isn’t a reef nearby, you can rent kayak or snorkeling equipment if you want to observe fish darting within the sea grass below the waves. You may also see coati slinking around beneath the palms. PUNTA SUR ECO BEACH PARK On tthe southernmost tip of Cozumel, this state-run ecological preserve and beach park is a fine place to spend a day on the island, with a long and pristine coastline, including some lovely swimmable beaches dotted with beach chairs and hammocks.

Eat&Drink

There is a small Maya temple known as El Caracol onsite and spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea from the top of the lighthouse on the point. You’re likely to see many iguanas sunning themselves on the beach rocks, and may even catch a glimpse of Cozumel’s endemic mammals, such as the pygmy raccoon or coati, amid the jungle foliage. Autopista Km 30 Sur Matamoros Norte-Centro-Sur, Guaycura, San Miguel de Cozumel. +52 987 872 0833 PLAYA CHEN RÍO Cozumel’s southeast coast is wild and windswept, facing the open sea. Heavy surf can make swimming a bit dangerous on most ocean beaches. One exception is the especially lovely Playa Chen Río. Here, a rocky outcropping offshore mellows the surf, creating calm natural pools. Though Chen Río is among the most popular beaches on the south side of Cozumel, it is still surprisingly quiet, with plenty of places to stretch out a towel. Alternatively, grab a table nestled in the sand at the one ultra-casual but attractive restaurant located right on the beach.

LOS OTATES For an easy but satisfying meal after a day of sea and sand, this unpretentious taqueria, a few blocks east of San Miguel’s central square, has garnered a local following. In a simple open-air concrete-floored dining room, efficient servers shuttle generously served guacamole, tacos filled with cecina (salt-cured beef) or spit-roasted pork, and ice-cold horchata from the open kitchen to the tables of diners. Though just a few minutes’ walk from the ferry landing, this little eatery feels like something you’d find in an off-thebeaten track town. Avenida Sur 15A, Cozumel. +52 987 869 0969 Palladium guides

Mayan Riviera

Cozumel

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1. San Gervasio 2. San Miguel De Cozumel 3. Santa Rosa Wall 4. Palancar Reef 5. Playa Palancar 6. Punta Sur Eco Beach Park 7. Playa Chen Rio 3

8. Los Otates

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Cozumel

Spotlight A

two-lane highway runs around the perimeter of Cozumel, hugging the coastline and, along the southeastern shore, affording an almost uninterrupted view of the sea. In a car, you can easily circle the island in an unhurried afternoon, escaping the busy port of San Miguel to discover a remarkably undeveloped and laid-back side of the Mexican Caribbean. Departing San Miguel, head south along the waterfront amid a sea of taxis and golf carts, passing the noisy pubs and docking cruise ships on your way out of town. Just south of Caleta, look for the turnoff indicating Chankanaab and the coastal highway. From there, a one-way single-lane road follows the coastline all the way to Paradise Beach, making for easy and scenic driving. Near the tip of the island, a sign marks the turnoff to the village of El Cedral. Just beside El Cedral’s central square, you can visit the teensy Maya ruin, which stands beside the first church erected on the island. From there, it’s only a few kilometers down the highway to Playa Palancar. Facing northwest over a sparkling sea, the beach is calm and relaxed, and as popular

with iguana and coati as it is with human visitors. Since swimming generally isn’t advisable along Cozumel’s south side, take a moment to wade into the Caribbean Sea here before you hit the road again. From Playa Palancar, round the tip of the island past the Punta Sur park. For the next 20 kilometers (12 miles), you’ll see fewer cars, empty beaches, and lots of roadside stands selling fresh coconuts. Playa San Martín, a long and windswept stretch of sand, is a popular spot with locals. The sea here is spectacularly blue, but the surf is rough: note the color of the posted flags before swimming. If you’d like to get your feet wet, press on to Playa Chen Río. At this picturesque beach, natural rock formations mellow the surf, making it safer for swimming, while the beachfront restaurant offers a perfect, sand-in-your-toes setting for a drink or meal. Get a final glimpse of the sapphire sea at Punta Morena, a stretch of sand located just a few kilometers from the transversal highway, which cuts west across the island to San Miguel de Cozumel. There’s nothing luxurious about the beach club here, but there’s always a free hammock and the coast is spectacular.

Cozumel’s south shore

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Playa delBohemian Carmen luxury Mayan Riviera

nown for its lovely white-sand beaches and relaxed Caribbean vibe, Playa del Carmen is the flagship resort town of the Riviera Maya. For years, this beach community was largely regarded as a bohemian alternative to Cancún, and while that description is still accurate, Playa is now a top-tier destination in its own right, with a slew of excellent bars, restaurants, multistory shopping malls, and luxe hotels crowded along its main tourist corridor, the Quinta Avenida. Even as tourism flourishes, Playa retains the picturesque coastline and laid-back character that made it famous. Most visitors come to Playa to lie in the sand and swim in the sea, among other simple pleasures, though it is located smack-dab in the middle of many ecoparks, cenotes, and resorts, making it the perfect place for dinner and drinks after a day trip in the region. Notably, Playa is the jumping-off point for a visit to the island of Cozumel, where you’ll find some of the world’s best diving.

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Mayan Riviera Playa del Carmen

See & Do

QUINTA AVENIDA A pedestrian street that runs parallel to Playa’s main beach, the busy Quinta Avenida, or Fifth Avenue, is the town’s beating heart. The locus of dining and nightlife for both tourists and locals, it is a charming place for an early-evening stroll amid bustling crowds and swaying palms. The southern end is the most developed, with malls, chain stores, time-share hawkers, and noisy bars competing for attention. To the north, the avenue is quieter, with an artsy vibe and romantic tree-shaded restaurants. After a stroll, settle in for some five-star people-watching at one of the dozens of open-air bars and cafés along the avenue.

Eat&Drink

MAMITA’S BEACH CLUB Just a few steps from the bustle of Quinta Avenida, Mamita’s is the most popular beach club in Playa, and a perfect place to rent a shaded sunbed, order a piña colada, and watch the waves crash on the shore. If you’d like a little less party, head north to Coco Beach, a quieter stretch of sand: though hardly undiscovered, you’ll find fewer people, and fewer services, here. Calle 28 Norte, Lote Centro, Playa del Carmen AXIOTE With a thatched palm roof, tropical tunes on the sound system, and genuinely amiable service, Axiote’s atmosphere belies its sophisticated kitchen. In this relaxed yet attractive setting, you’ll find some of the best food in Playa, with southern Mexicoinspired savories such as Oaxacanstyle guacamole mixed with chapulines, beef-tongue tacos, and chayote bathed in yellow mole on the menu. Three types of house-made salsas of varying heat are served with your meal, while the impressive drink list includes bottles of mezcal, Mexican wine, and craft beer. Calle 34 Norte, 128, Playa del Carmen. +52 984 803 1727 LA NO. 20 CANTINA A modern take on the classic Mexican cantina, this secondfloor restaurant is often bustling

in the evenings, when the open windows allow a warm breeze to blow across the dining room from over Quinta Avenida. Drinks are a highlight of the menu, with more than 50 tequilas and mezcals on offer, plus specialty cocktails made with exotic mixers. Match them up with Mexican-style bar snacks including lobster tacos, roasted bone marrow, and tlacoyos, thick torpedo-shaped corn cakes stuffed with cheese or beans. If you happen to be in town for a Mexican holiday or a World Cup game, this is the place to go. 5 Av. Norte, 310, Gonzalo Guerrero, Playa del Carmen. +52 984 197 8825 LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO There’s live music every night of the week at this vibrant Cubanthemed bar and restaurant, which was inspired by the legendary Havana institution of the same name. It’s one of the only places in the Riviera Maya that serves Cuban food and many come to dine on ropa vieja, fried plantains, and black beans and rice. Dinner, however, is just a prelude to the party. As night falls, a tropical band takes the stage and a convivial crowd, fueled by generously served mojitos, gets to its feet. For those who want to learn a few steps, the bar often offers drop-in salsa classes in the early evening. 5ta Avenida, corner Calle 34 Norte. +52 984 803 3950

EL PIRATA A no-frills eatery serving classic Mexican seafood dishes, El Pirata is a popular pit stop for a fresh, filling meal. The Mexican-style ceviche is prepared with a generous dose of lime, tomatoes, and cilantro, and served in portions that aren’t dainty, with a side of chips and hot sauce. Whole fried fish is another favorite on the menu; the server will often bring out a selection of fresh seafood and let you pick what you want prepared. The dining room is simple but often packed, spilling onto the sidewalk, where blue umbrellas shade the plastic chairs and tables from the afternoon heat. Calle 40 5, Zazil-ha. +52 984 803 6762 Palladium guides

Mayan Riviera Playa del Carmen

Shop

BIURIFUL An inspired selection of swimwear, clothing, jewelry, and accessories make this elegant boutique a standout in Playa. Assembling work from established designers and lesser-known independent labels, Biuriful stocks colorful swimsuits and cover-ups by Mara Hoffman, whimsical ceramic jewelry by French designer Nach, and stylish sunglasses by Erdem, among other statement pieces. Though the selection is well-suited to Playa’s beachy aesthetic and balmy climate, the pieces here are stylish enough to take home to New York City. 5ta Avenida, between Calle 30 and 32. +52 984 803 3741

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Mayan Riviera

Playa del Carmen 1

1. Quinta Avenida 6

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2. Mamita’s Beach Club 3. Axiote 4. La No. 20 Cantina 5. La Bodeguita Del Medio 6. El Pirata

7. Biuriful

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Playa del Carmen

Spotlight Y

ucatán’s cultural history is reflected in its unique cuisine, which blends indigenous Maya, Caribbean, and Spanish culinary traditions to create unfamiliar and unusually delicious flavors. Both in taste and technique, Yucatec food is also noticeably influenced by Middle Eastern cuisine, the result of a large influx of Lebanese immigrants to the region in the 19th and 20th centuries. If you are trying Yucatec food for the first time, a good place to start is the ubiquitous cochinita pibil, pulled pork slowcooked in an underground pit and seasoned with achiote seed. You’ll see cochinita pibil stuffed into tacos or tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches) throughout the Riviera Maya, even at restaurants that don’t specialize in Yucatec food. Other eminently likable Yucatec dishes, such as sopa de lima (chicken soup flavored with citrus) and relleno negro

(turkey served with a sauce of mixed chiles, spices, and fruit), are inventive and delicious, and uncommon in other parts of Mexico. Vaporcitos, tiny tamales wrapped in banana leaves, may resemble the tamales you find in other Mexican states, though the seasoning has a Yucatec flair. A popular beach snack with a notable Middle Eastern provenance, kibis are beef or pork meatballs mixed with bulgur, mint, onion, and garlic; as well as in Yucatec restaurants, you’ll often find them sold by casual vendors along the coast in Cancún or Playa. Another ubiquitous stable, the habanero is a flavorful and intensely spicy chile pepper popular throughout the region, and prepared in several types of salsa, including a deep black salsa made with roasted habaneros. The habanero is the hottest pepper used in Mexican cooking, so spoon delicately if you’re trying it for the first time.

Regional cuisine 27

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ChichénMayan Itzáheritage Mayan Riviera

enturies after its abandonment, the ancient city of Chichén Itzá remains astonishing in its grandeur and beauty. Though it’s a two-hour trip along a jungle-clad highway from Cancún to the ruins, it is one of the few attractions in the region that merits forfeiting a day at the beach to visit. Accordingly, Chichén Itzá is one of the most popular day trips from Cancún, as well as from the Yucatec city of Mérida, and it’s often crowded, not only in the archeological site but in the cenotes and eateries nearby. Fortunately, crowds can’t dim the magnificence of the ancient city and its environs. If you plan to go, you can make a day of it by stopping at the charming colonial city of Valladolid for lunch, or dropping in for a dip at one of the many cenotes that dot the jungle path to the ruins.

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Mayan Riviera Chichén Itzá

See & Do

CHICHÉN ITZÁ ARCHEOLOGICAL ZONE The magnificent Maya city of Chichén Itzá was one of the most important cultural, economic, and religious centers on the northern Yucatán peninsula, gaining prominence in the 9th century before collapsing, alongside other Maya cities, in the late 900s. It rose to power again during several waves of migration; notably, archeologists have discovered evidence of cultural exchange between Chichén Itzá and the Toltec people of central Mexico, which influenced the city’s beautiful design. Famously, along the steps of the site’s handsome central El Castillo pyramid, shadows cast by the sun on the spring and fall equinox resemble a serpent climbing the temple’s stairs. LAS NOCHES DE KUKULKÁN After Chichén Itzá has been closed to the public for the day, a limited group of visitors is allowed access to the site for the evening light show. Perhaps the best part of attending this daily event is the unique opportunity to visit Chichén Itzá at night, when there is a much smaller

crowd than you’d find at midday. After a 45-minute tour of the ruins, guests are seated for a laser and light show, which is projected onto the main pyramid, El Castillo. The accompanying audio soundtrack, which covers the pre-Columbian history of Mexico and the Maya civilization, is in Spanish, though the visuals alone are enough to keep non-Spanish-speakers entertained. CENOTE IK KIL An iridescent blue swimming hole half-enclosed within a spectacular natural dome, Ik Kil is one of the most beautiful and best-known cenotes on the Yucatán peninsula. As well as paddling around in the refreshingly cool waters, you can jump off a towering ledge and into the pool below without any fear of touching bottom: the cenote sinks 40 meters

(130 feet) into the ground. Close to Chichén Itzá, this cenote is a popular stop with day-trippers to the ruins, and there’s often a big crowd here, especially in the afternoons. VALLADOLID It’s just a short detour on the highway between Cancún and Chichén Itzá to reach the colonial-era city of Valladolid. Many Chichén Itzá day-trippers stop here for a late lunch after visiting the ruins, though exploring this charming, historic, and authentically Mexican pueblo could easily fill a day or two. Its beautifully preserved downtown, with some buildings dating back to the 16th century, is one of the most historic in Mexico, and the traditional food is excellent. Among the more unusual sights in the area, Cenote Zací is a beautiful water-filled sinkhole. Palladium guides

Mayan Riviera

Chichén Itzá

1. Zona arqueológica de Chichén Itzá (Chichén Itzá Archeological Zone) 2. Las Noches de Kukulkán 3. Cenote Ik Kil 4. Valladolid

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Chichén Itzá

Spotlight

ccomplished astronomers, mathematicians, artists, and city planners, the Maya were the architects of one of the most complex and influential civilizations in pre-Columbian Mexico. From 200 to 900, an era that archeologists refer to as the Classic period, they constructed massive cities throughout Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, and the Yucatán peninsula of Mexico, with some urban centers swelling to an estimated 120,000 inhabitants. A dynasty of kings oversaw each city-state, and rulers often led fierce wars against other kingdoms to gain control of trade routes and resources. Using a complex calendar and writing system, the Maya kept track of their history, carving dates, names, and events into stone stelae, which have helped archeologists to better understand Maya culture. Between the 8th and 9th centuries,

most major Maya cities were abandoned, for reasons that remain a mystery to scholars. On the Yucatán peninsula, many cities remained inhabited, even as the Maya declined. Most famous among them, Chichén Itzá was a powerful center until the 13th century. Thereafter, even as Chichén Itzá and its satellite cities faded, the Maya continued to inhabit what is today the Riviera Maya through the time of the Spanish conquest. Hernán Cortés himself met the Maya of Cozumel in 1520, when he docked his ships on the island. Long after their numbers had dwindled, the Maya’s aesthetic and philosophical legacy, as well as their skill in astronomy and mathematics, had a notable impact throughout Mesoamerica, persisting into the present day. Surviving demise, conquest, disease, and modernization, an estimated two million ethnic Mayans are still living in Mexico today.

The

ancient Maya 31

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hideaway Nopalitos Lagoon Mayan Riviera

The

This natural sanctuary hidden in a genuine jungle located a half-hour drive from the center of Tulum opened its doors to tourism in 2020. What’s particularly striking about it is its color – a beautiful turquoise, like mint candy. Seen from above, the shadow at its center takes the form of a nopal leaf, from which the spot takes its name. At the Nopalitos Lagoon, you can swim, dive and swing on unique hammocks strung over the water, tied to old trees. Or simply relax on the white sands, taking in this remarkable oasis where, until now, few had ever set foot. 32

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Mayan Riviera

TRS Yucatan Hotel Carretera Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km, 256-100, 77710. Municipio Solidaridad Riviera Maya (Mexico) Phone: +52 9848 772100

Grand Palladium Grand Palladium Grand Palladium Colonial Kantenah White Sand Resort & Spa Resort & Spa Resort & Spa Carretera Chetumal Puerto Juárez Km, 256-100, 77710 Municipio Solidaridad Riviera Maya Phone: +52 9848 772100

Carretera Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km, 256-100, 77710 Municipio Solidaridad Riviera Maya Phone: +52 9848 772100

Carretera Chetumal Puerto Juárez Km, 256-100, 77710 Municipio Solidaridad Riviera Maya Phone: +52 9848 772100 Photos © Shutterstock, iStockphoto, Unsplash : Rafael Cisneros Mendez, Jared Rice, Albany Capture, Alex Azabache.

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