Facades and Secrets of Lyon, France 2014 National Collegiate Honors Council Faculty Institute July 14-20, 2014
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Edited by: Susan Martelli and Monique Hamers-Regimbal Design and layout: Inge Beekmans Thanks to: Bernice Braid and Peter Machonis 2
“We have learned that all sites are interesting; that all are different, in some way, from all others.�
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Foreword
LYON NHCH FACULTY INSTITUTE City as Text™ Immersion Designs Faculty Institutes
can through their own
of Gaul, the economic
designed and offered by
practicum begin to think
and cultural center of silk
members of The National
about how to design
production and printing
Collegiate Honors
structured observations,
during the Renaissance, a
Council (NCHC) through
and think about how
center of labor unrest in
its Honors Semesters
to link these to student
the nineteenth century,
Committee focus on
research projects on
was an extremely
the deeply experiential
their own campus or in
important headquarters
heart of active learning
international settings.
of resistance to the
in honors. Since 1978 we
City as Text™ has been
Germans during World
have offered immersion
adapted to Place and
War II, and is a world-
workshops at sites
Region, as well.
class gastronomic center now. All of these aspects
around the world so that faculty eager to
We have learned that all
are reflected in the
develop strategies for
sites are interesting; that
superb Musée Gadagne,
independent thinking,
all are different, in some
but we participants
close observation, and
way, from all others; and
constructed an
analysis of primary
that one central objective
independent perspective
sources of information
of the strategy is to prod
on the complexity of
investigation into what
Lyon on our feet, and in
lies beneath the surface
our seminars.
of anywhere people
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live. Lyon leapt to our
Our original notion
attention in this larger
was that the traboules
conceptual context: it
– relatively hidden
was the Roman capital
passageways through
which bolts of silk could be carried from the peaks around the old town to the rivers that transported them to a world market, yet still visible today in the built environment – would be the unifying motif of our exploration. What we discovered is that through exceptionally foresighted leadership, Lyon was the first city funded by the Malraux Law to invest large sums of money restoring its old town center, including the traboules. This project became an ambitious attempt to restore/develop what had historically been a crossroads of political empire and economic power to a semblance of its former greatness. Aided by the creativity and talents of its architects, its gourmet industry, its determination to preserve the built environment of its own past, even as it seeks to build itself once again into an economic engine
of France, Lyon has
to accommodate this
become a city fascinating
powerful strand as well.
for the interconnections of its labor-intensive
We began on Monday –
past, its rich location,
Bastille Day! – and we left
and its current success
on Sunday. Probably by
in attracting and holding
then we all felt that what
well-educated younger
had originally seemed
generations.
a very long Institute still felt too short, and
Lyon embraces its
could easily have been
political past, as well.
a week longer. Lyon
Recently opened as
was a revelation to us
public access venues,
all. And I suspect that
the Mémorial de la
we were a revelation
Prison de Montluc and
to us as well. That’s
the Centre d’Histoire de
the impact of City as
la Résistance et de la
Text™ – undertaking this
Déportation (CHRD) flesh
strategy has the effect
out interconnections
of revealing the world to
among citizens, the
us, and of revealing us
Resistance Movement,
to ourselves. Lyon was
and the deportation
a perfect setting for our
to Auschwitz of local
laboratory!
French populations. Once we learned that
Bernice Braid, Long Island
we could have access
University Brooklyn
to these institutions,
Peter Machonis and John
our own Institute
Bailly, Florida International
Agenda was modified
University 5
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Faculty Participants Angela Mead
Appalachian State University, USA
Ann Raia
College of New Rochelle, USA
Hannah Frederiks
Rotterdam University of Applied Sciences,
Kristin Hark
Longwood University, USA
Monique Hamers-Regimbal
Fontys University of Applied Sciences,
The Netherlands
The Netherlands Ron Weerheijm
Rotterdam University of Applied Sciences, The Netherlands
Rozzy Hooper-Hamersley
New Jersey City University, USA
Shad Wenzlaff
Edgewood College, USA
Susan Martelli
Massasoit Community College, USA
Trish Souliere
NCHC, USA
Student Participant Alex Souliere
Nebraska Wesleyan University, USA
Facilitators John Bailly
Florida International University
Bernice Braid
Long Island University
Peter Machonis
Florida International University 7
Bibliography
NCHC Faculty Institute Bibliography Facades and Secrets of Lyon, France Books Aubrac, Lucie. Translated by Konrad Bieber, 1993, Outwitting the Gestapo. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press. [first published in French in 1984 by Seuil as Ils partiront dans l’ivresse] Braid, Bernice and Ada Long, Editors. 2010. Place as Text: Approaches to Active Learning. Second edition. NCHC Monograph Series. University of Nebraska-Lincoln: National Collegiate Honors Council. Daeninckx, Didier. Translated by Sarah Martin. 1994. A Very Profitable
Chapters Bloch, Marc. 1999. Strange Defeat: A
War. New York: Serpent’s Tail. [first
Statement of Evidence Written in 1943.
published in French in 1984 by
Chapter 1: Presentation of the Witness.
Gallimard as Le der des ders]
New York: Norton.
Machonis, Peter A., Editor. 2008.
Geertz, Clifford. 1983. Local Knowledge:
Shatter the Glassy Stare: Implementing
Further Essays in Interpretative
Experiential Learning in Higher
Anthropology. Introduction and Part 1.
Education. NCHC Monograph Series.
New York: Basic Books.
University of Nebraska-Lincoln: National Collegiate Honors Council. 8
Jacobs, Jane. 1992. The Death and Life
of Great American Cities. Introduction.
Monograph Series. University of
New York: Vintage Books. [originally
Nebraska-Lincoln: National Collegiate
published in 1961 by Random House]
Honors Council.
Jacobs, Jane. 1992. The Death and Life
Wikipedia excerpts on Lyon: history,
of Great American Cities. Chapter 22.
geography and gastronomy.
New York: Vintage Books. [originally published in 1961 by Random House] Long, Ada, Editor. 2014. Writing in Your Feet: Reflective Practices in City as TextTM. Introduction. NCHC 9
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Agenda
2014 NCHC FACULTY INSTITUTE FACADES AND SECRETS OF LYON, FRANCE
14 – 20 July 2014
lobby for brief overview,
Tuesday, 15 July
distribution of maps and
Food, History, Secrets
groups assignments for
(traboules)
Using NCHC City as Text™
initial walkabout
strategies as pedagogical framework, and Lyon’s extensive system of covered passageways, or traboules, as an overreaching symbol, participants will discover the real Lyon – social issues of past and present, advantages and disadvantages of urban redevelopment, and the
14.30
Exploration
assignment: Observation
of area immediately
exercise at the local
surrounding hotel in
market. Participants will
three groups:
explore their assigned food groups at the Quai
Rue Mecière, Rue Victor
Saint-Antoine market
Hugo, Rue Président
and agree on a place to
Herriot
do observation exercise. Individuals will buy a
17.00 Share short
picnic lunch for later.
reports from each group. First writing assignment
Fruits and vegetables
(due Tuesday morning)
Meats Traiteur
18.30 Welcome
Agenda
11.45 Groups meet
reception
back at the hotel to take
Café 8 quai des
Funicular to Fourvière Hill
The private use of public
Célestins
into three different areas
inner workings of a large progressive European city.
Monday, 14 July
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9.00 Morning
La Chapelle
space
of Vieux Lyon to discover
14.00 Meet in hotel
Text strategies.
traboules using City as
North:
9.15
Groups may
of World War II?
St. Paul church to Place
explore Croix-Rousse and
de Change
Presqu’île in any order,
9.30
but should make lunch
Prison
Mid:
Visit Montluc
Place du Change to Palais
BRIEF so as to cover
de Justice
the terrain assigned. At
10.30 Meeting with
some point in the day,
Holocaust survivor,
Palais de Justice to Place
agree on a place to do an
Claude Bloch
St. Jean
observation exercise.
South:
14.00 17.00
Meet in
Visit the
Croix Rousse
Centre d’Histoire de
lobby to discuss
West/Confluence
la Résistance et de la
day’s observations.
East/Place Bellecour
Déportation (CHRD)
Participants should
top of of the hill area/
think about what they’ve
Place des Terreaux
seen in the context of
15.30
Meeting
and discussion with
background readings.
16.30
Send Observations #1 to
of Théatre Célestins to
Sanglerat
Peter
share reports from each
Evening writing
group.
assignment (optional):
Send observations #2 to
WW II reflection on
Peter
conversations witnessed
Wednesday, 16 July
Meet in front
Social construction of the
today
spaces of Lyon
Send your WW II
Thursday, 17 July 9.00
Groups will
spend half of their time
Resistance Fighter, Guy
reflection to Peter
Lyon in the context of World War II
Friday, 18 July
exploring the CroixRousse hill area, and
8.15
Meet in lobby.
Urban redevelopment:
the other half in the
Brief discussion about
Presqu’île area closer to
WW II background before
the hotel. We will review
the visits. Participants
9.00
the assigned areas on
should have reviewed
to Parc de la Tête d’Or,
you maps, so that the
appropriate readings
porte des Enfants du
three groups explore
over breakfast. What was
Rhône entrance
different areas of both
Lyon’s position in the
9.30
parts of town.
larger French framework
observation exercise.
Lyon in the 21st century Leave hotel to go
Individual
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This isolation exercise will
- Pont de la Guillotière
Send your Turning Point
involve observing alone
to Pont de Lattre de
Essay to Peter
in an area of the park of
Tassigny
your choice, but not next
- Pont de l’Université to
to anyone else from our
Pont de la Guillotière
Saturday, 19 July
group, and sketching
- Pont de l’Université to
Review of Turning Point
what you observe in this
Pont Pasteur
Essays; Workshop on
large 19th-century public park.
applications Each group should
Morning: Free
explore their assigned 11.30 Regroup to share
area, using City as Text
12.00
sketches and get new
strategies. Use this
of Hôtel des Célestins is
team assignments.
contact to strike up
reserved for our group.
Each team should go
conversations about the
Sharing/discussion of
to the Bocuse market
“new” Lyon.
Turning Point Essays
(Les Halles de Lyon),
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Breakfast room
(Brown Bag lunch)
either walking or using
17.00 All participants
public transportation.
meet back at hotel to
You should explore this
share impressions of
upscale market, while
Lyon’s efforts to remake
14.15 Resume workshop;
buying your lunch from
itself in a new time, and
discussion of individual
the many traiteurs, and
compare these with their
applications
find a quiet place to
initial impressions from
have lunch and discuss
Monday, as well as their
19.30 Final dinner Café
this market experience.
sense of the “old Lyon”
des Fédérations
Compare it to Tuesday’s
from earlier explorations.
Major Martin
experience at the Quai
Turning Point Essay
Saint-Antoine market.
assignment.
Bon appetit!
Review readings about
Sunday, 20 July
pedagogy in preparation
End of Institute
14.00 Head to your
for Saturday’s workshop;
assigned area of the
review notes about how
river bank (Les berges
you might apply City
du Rhône) to experience
as Text strategies and
an afternoon walking or
techniques to you own
biking along the “new
campus, courses or other
Lyon”.
settings.
14.00 Short break
rue
11.00 Check out time
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Assignments
The Lyon Institute: TM
Learning by doing City as Text while thinking about how to do City as Text
Learning strategies Elements important to the learning strategies are based heavily on observational skills: using all senses, collect impressions from a given site that will yield patterns of interaction, interplay between the built environment and behaviour, and clues
Analysis: Which of the details you describe above support your interpretation of this interaction? Reflection: What drew you to describe this particular interaction? Was your response the same or different from that of other people watching? Why do you think you saw it the way you did?
about how a given “place” works for those in it. There are stages to every exploration: observation, interpretation, analysis and reflection.
Goal The ultimate goal of every observation is a conscious sense of what people mean by what they do in given surroundings, and over time, an increased awareness of just how
Observation All observations include the same
each of us sees, interacts with, and understands the significance of context
general instructions.
in deciphering that meaning.
Time, Place and People: Who is there,
in “mapping” – in every sense of that
where is it unfolding, and what day/
This Institute is a concentrated exercise word – that helps explorers make
time does it occur?
meaning as they walk through an
Event: What seems to be happening?
approach helps provide mechanisms
Interpretation: What do you think this is ‘about’? What makes you think so?
area. As a site-specific modality, this that permit participants to take in detailed impressions of who lives 17
where, and how – from living to working, from playing to visiting – in an urban environment. We are practicing what S.B. Heath calls “an ethnography of sorts”- not meant to train practitioners in any one discipline, but meant to provide all explorers with antennae to notice, think about, and retain impressions collected during field experiences. (excerpt from material provided for the Lyon Institute by Bernice Baird, Peter Machonis and John Bailly )
Day 1: Monday, July 14th Walkabout: The Private Use of Public Space The first assignment is exceptionally informal: to wander around the immediate area surrounding the hotel. This is a chance to “locate” yourself”, to begin to establish a sense of this specific place in the larger canvas of Lyon. You want to establish a mental construct including intersections, stores, places to stop and rest or relax. You will want to pick up how people use each of the sectors: who does what, who watches them do it, who talks to whom and how, and who
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watches the watchers engage in their activities? What is the range of interaction possible in these subsections of the small neighbourhood around us here? Who exactly is out on the streets with you? What makes you think so? There are no rules in what you should do, other than that you should limit your exploration to your assigned area and that you must make an effort to interact with as many people as you possibly can.
Day 2: Tuesday, July 15th Observation: Food, History, Secrets (traboules)
Day 3: Wednesday, July 16th Observation: Social Construction of the Spaces of Lyon
Day 4: Thursday, July 17th Excursion: Lyon in the context of World War II
Day 5: Friday, July 18th Observations: Urban redevelopment: Lyon in the 21st century
Day 6: Saturday, July 19th Review of Turning Point Essays; Workshop on application
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“I have been delighted to see cultural and racial diversity on a scale that I never could have imagined would exist outside of the great melting pot of America.�
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First impressions
THE ONE WORD TO DESCRIBE LYON Graceful Relaxed Open Textured Layered International Capitalist Contemplative Alive Quaint ALEX Almost everything in Lyon is different to me. Everywhere I go the buildings I see are hundreds of years old and so packed together that they are like massive rocks in a stream, forcing the streets to bend around them. It seems that everywhere that it is physically possible for a car to go is a street and everywhere one’s feet can take them is a sidewalk. When the two overlap (as they often do) I expect there to be pandemonium and injuries, but every time is the same. Pedestrians
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and drivers proceed calmly and with patience until the impasse is cleared as if it is the most logical thing in the world for a car to share the same space with 20 people on foot. I have been delighted to see cultural and racial diversity on a scale that I never could have imagined would exist outside of the great melting pot of America. Everywhere I go people of all ages, shapes, colors, and beliefs are interacting in one big vibrant community.
HANNAH
Big and Tiny, Bright and so French… I sat with my colleague at Place des Célestins and did some reading. The Place des Célestins is a square in front of the Célestins Theatre, surrounded by small bushes and trees. The use of materials is very interesting because it suggests that there are different areas in this square. The ground material in front of the Célestins Theatre is light yellow tiles. Behind this scene a next scene unfolds with two bodies
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of water and a tiled bridge and beyond
with footballs. Why is this square such
that is the square. How the square
an attractive place for people? Is the
was used caught my attention because
design of this environment inviting?
people didn’t experience any of these
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areas as boundaries. Two little boys
But where is the celebration of the 14th
were playing with a football. Their
of July, of le quatorze juillet? I could
dad was talking to other men but also
not recognize what is special about the
watching over the boys. The children
14th of July in Lyon. But when the sun
used the entire open space of Place
came down the city of Lyon changed.
des Célestins. They even saw the water
Suddenly people came from the east
as an extra challenge. In the afternoon
side and went to the riverbanks of the
the Place des Célestins attracted more
Saone to see the fireworks. The pace of
people who gathered and sat on the
the fireworks was slow and then sped
benches in the square and on the
up. Fireworks were launched from
theatre stairs. Other kids were playing
two separate places, the one reacting
“Why is this square such an attractive place for people? Is the design of this environment inviting?”
to the other culminating in hearts and
it -- the architecture with its classical
smiley faces.
references appeals to me. The decorative elements -- the balustrades,
I expected that the City of Lyon would
mansard roofs , pastel stone and
be a typical old French City. But my
plaster walls, sculptured additives that
first impression doesn’t match my
serve no function but delight the eye!
expectation.
Harmony, balance. The pedestrian promenades. The human dimensions
ANN
of the city. The streets with photo-op vistas. The sand castle churches. The
I said "graceful" -- what did I mean?
squares with fountains, trees, benches
I used it in reply to Peter's request
quietly enjoyed by Lyonnais of all ages.
for a defining adjective -- from my
Graceful. Perhaps the sounds that I
subconscious or from a desire to fill
listen to closely to because I don't know
the void? Yes, "full of grace." Let's face
their meaning. 25
SUSAN
Celestial Musings
contrasting symbols of
Our room has a view
revolution, Place des
of the beautiful theater and the square in front, and we are a five minute walk from the Saone River. I spent today walking very slowly over a two mile area of pedestrian streets, public squares, and shops and restaurants. I saw break dancers, groups of adolescents, young families, and old people, strolling and enjoying the warm sunshine and a day off from work. It all seemed quite idyllic
royalty, Louis IV, and Jacobins. I thought of the connections to water. The fountains, the two rivers, and the life-giving importance of water to human life. A sculpture on the façade of the Palais of Commerce and Industry depicts a sort of Adam swimming with the current and seems to connect the life of the
“It made me think of the Japanese scientist who took magnetic images of water crystals, revealing their reactions to human judgment.”
city to the vitality of the rivers. It made me think of the Japanese scientist who took magnetic
RON Quaint
images of water crystals, revealing their reactions
First time in Lyon. As an
to human judgment. The
architect, my prejudice
crystals were beautiful
is certainly the spatial
and symmetrical when
way of looking at Mercier
labeled with love and
Street: space, voids,
praise, and they became
buildings as borders
distorted when the
of this space, facades
scientist sent impulses
as outside borders of
of anger or hatred. So,
city spaces (and inner
cultural display.
as the life of Lyon is
spaces). But having read
nourished by its rivers, I
Jane Jacobs, recognizing
I saw water features in
hope I will learn from this
her way of looking at the
city, ways to bring back
city and her ‘concern’
blessings to my own.
about how my kind of
to me. The tourists were international— women wearing head scarves, young people speaking Chinese, a quai-side bazaar offering unfamiliar music, and a holiday crowd blended together to offer a multi-
three major squares and people gathered to enjoy the fountains gushing water. The fountains 26
themselves offered
people (architects, urban planners) have in fact
a short-sighted view of
This part of the street is
My head spinning with
the city as phenomena,
much more anonymous,
all of that and more, we
I urge myself to borrow
much further away from
started out towards our
some other pair of eyes.
oneself and with that
assigned location. My
But a prejudice is like a
much less a ‘street’ that
first, snap impression
maelstrom; it’s hard to
fits in this part of town.
was both honest and
get away from it.
ridiculously judgmental – It would be interesting
a wide street packed end
When talking about
to know if people using
to end with restaurants
what atmospheres
one or both of the streets
that just smacked of
the street gives us, the
feel the difference.
tourist chic. Why would
word ‘quaint’ comes up.
Maybe they see it as two
you cram this many
I don’t know what the
different streets, maybe
eating establishments
word means, the others
we have been fooled by
together if not to cater to
explain that it means that
the name of the street
the spendthrifty tourist?
the atmosphere feels
which is, for us, the
Not fair, I thought. Not
authentic, real, organic
same. Would they like
fair at all. There was no
, natural. I think ‘quaint’
to live in each other’s
way to tell who among
describes well the south
street?
the diners belonged in
end of Mercier Street, but
Lyon and who was a
the north end feels more
tourist.
desolate, more void,
TRISH
empty, in Jane Jacobs
It’s Alive....but Does It Fit?
words: destroyed. And
The second impression that filtered in was that
although the facades
It seems an impossible
it was a place teeming
of both ends of the
task to form a ‘clean’ first
with life. Almost every
streets are the same -
impression. I am fairly
outdoor table was
classic housing of the
sure you cannot look
occupied and every
18th century - the new
at a place without the
building we passed
apartment building is
distorted, layered lenses
well cared for and well
quite destructive in this
comprised of years of
maintained. There
northern street. Maybe
experience. What do I
was so much color, so
that is the reason for
‘know’ the French do here
much energy, and so
the empty terraces, the
and how much of what
much input. I tried to
abandoned street, the
I see today will be the
remember what I was
hobos on the porch, the
result of my looking for
to observe. Clothes,
people walking through.
what I expect?
people, interactions,
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“Looking up I saw how quite beautiful and elegant the row of buildings on rue Victor Hugo actually is.“
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conversations, space. I noted a casual
such a character speak boldly of the
feel, a sense of ease and comfort even
character of our assigned streets.
in the middle of all that activity. There was a vibrant sense of life in
Though, I’d rather have deciphered
this small microcosm of Lyon, from
first the demeanor of the French
the crowded street side restaurants to
couple, the Asian tourist, the text-
the quieter, more residential section. I
focused college student who passed
recognized the life breathing through
by my bewildered and mildly anxious
the space and then I realized that
gaze. Eaves-dropping is a game at
beneath the confused muddle of
which I excel. Indeed, I’d prefer to
my thoughts and emotions and the
have wandered with my lust for the
seemingly disjointed observations
architecture and thirst to know
about the area that I feel like I fit
more than merely my partners’ names.
here. I get a sense of belonging
I’d like to have kept my wallet in a
and of comfort, language barriers
locked hotel room. And instead, to
notwithstanding.
have placed a premium on my sensory revelations immersed in a seven-
SHAD Propensity
storied city plagued by millennia of human conquest and splendor would have put that anxiety at ease. (Or would it have made me less
One’s experience in a city is no
focused?)
doubt characterized by the events experienced as one enters that city;
This city, as ancient as any I’ve ever
no less than by the demeanor of that
visited, speaks from sunken rivers
soul’s biased expectations. These
flowing through a symbolic relief
acknowledgments fail to present the
sculpture positioned centrally amidst a
maelstrom of one’s buzzing about
prominent marble landmark that pays
newly minted acquaintances as that
homage to commerce. How different
experience percolates. I thus
than Rome can be this place one refers
offer Lyon as a center of “capitalism”
to as Lyon? Its architecture no doubt
bearing witness to my partners’
hastens to reference both Bernini
excitement shopping for both goods
and Palladio; yet its present denies a
and conversations accumulated while
passive reverence for such masters of
acquiring ice cream. Indeed, I willingly
form and space. I know there’s more
partook in such capitalist delights
than meets my senses.
knowing full well that interactions of
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“This city, as ancient as any I’ve ever visited, speaks from sunken rivers flowing through a symbolic relief sculpture positioned centrally amidst a prominent marble landmark that pays homage to commerce.�
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Kristen
to a new day, one with
of la deuxieme guerre
Texture of Lyon
more regular business,
mondiale; the resistance
more of the “normal”
at work, courage beyond
First impressions are
Lyonnais daily grind to
imagination. As we amble
reflect upon. Even as I
in this seemingly tranquil
write that, I wonder what
quartier I begin to see
does “normal daily grind”
folks walking along and
even mean? My first
they do not appear to
impression began with
mind that nothing is
texture…Lyon seems, in
open. They link arms,
my nascent estimation,
they hold hands, they
a friendly, relaxed, and
appear content. No,
slow-paced, profitable
something more, they
city; and I feel as though I
seem contemplative
have not even scratched
to me; they seem
the surface; however,
comfortable in their own
that will soon be
skins.
often true and then untrue—I think the same holds for Lyon—I look forward to seeing the differences in perception at the end of our time here. ‘Textured’ is the adjective that I give Lyon at this moment because I first noticed the layers of the city—the modern and efficient rail system and station, classic French architecture, cobblestone
remedied! The other thing that
streets that bespeak history alongside chainstore commerce... it’s fascinating, really, to ask ‘why’. I don’t yet. The beauty of the area— the trees and people near them, apartment facades with flowers spilling out of the window boxes, fountains being enjoyed by the children and later this evening, the immense crowd thoroughly enjoying the Bastille Day celebration— it all seemed a bit surreal. I look forward 32
ROZZY
strikes me is this. In the company of my three
Contemplation d’une
new companions it
culture: les premières
becomes abundantly
impressions
clear that we are viewing this Lyonnais world
It is le quartorze
through remarkably
juillet…many streets
different lenses. As we
surrounding our
endeavor to perceive the
destination are quiet.
idiosyncratic nature of
Businesses are shut,
those around us, their
streets are solemn,
streets, their shops,
shops are silent. I walk
their buildings, their
with my companions
characteristics and
through the Place des
mannerisms…I expect
Jacobins and I think first
to observe an organic
of revolutionary travail
outgrowth of this culture
and then of the horrors
as it stimulates different
sensations in each of us.
around me, the young girl who is smoking, the
I notice the surprising
amorous couple, the
paucity of cell phones
loquacious teenagers,
and, in their place,
the intent businessman,
delightful engagement at
to wonder if people live
many café tables, some
behind those drawn
cheery people at lunch,
windows high above
chatting serenely, and
the closed businesses,
elsewhere, in contrast,
to imagine what shoes
a couple in the midst of
might signify, or the
grumpy silence. Two men
cadence of speech, or
‘walk’ a couch down the
measured gait.
“Looking up I saw how quite beautiful and elegant the row of buildings on rue Victor Hugo actually is.“
street, a roller blader with untied shoes carries
Hugo actually is. Three
a second pair in his arms.
MONIQUE
I notice the silence of
Les Flâneurs lyonnais
passageways, the glances
or four stories high, high windows, iron balconies – some with pots of
of folks on their ways
A relaxed pace, no one
flowers and plants. A
to busy restaurants, the
seems in any kind of
private space that truly
clattering of dishes and
hurry. No one seems
enhanced the public
the yummy smells of
to have any specific
space.
food at one end of the
destination. People
street, empty seats at
wandering, conversing
We arrived at the end
others further on.
and heading nowhere
of rue Victor Hugo
in particular. “Flâner” is
which turns into a park
I will try to get the ‘feel
what came to mind to
(parc Carnot we were
of this city’, a place, a
describe the main activity
later told), bordered by
neighborhood, to discern
of the people I came
a number of terraces
how this place manifests,
across on my way to and
where people were
projects, or hides the
through la rue Victor
sitting, conversing and
past. I decide I must ask
Hugo.
having a drink. Lots of
“why of what”. I must
green, mature trees and
question if it is possible
Looking up I saw how
a memorial dedicated
to attain the privilege
quite beautiful and
to the battle of Verdun.
of peering through the
elegant the row of
Children and one adult
perceived lenses of those
buildings on rue Victor
splashing each other
33
34
with water from some kind of pump.
I’ve read about the Roman ruins still
Each bench along the grass was
preserved from nearly 2,000 years ago.
occupied by one or more individuals,
Lyon seems to be a city that embraces
sitting, conversing. Children were
the past while also continuing to move
playing soccer. And to the right, a
forward. I saw ample evidence of
group of bearded women including a
new technologies, including a flock of
bearded Marianne. They were part
tourists on Segway scooters. I saw the
of an activist group called ‘La Barbe’
now ubiquitous cell phones, but I also
and handed over their manifesto. Too
saw a number of people just sitting
many government representatives are
together in a public space to chat.
male. Any level of government could
Parents played with their children
expect a visit from representatives of
while grandparents sat on benches
‘La Barbe’ when 80% of their ‘assemblé’
to observe. Almost everyone we
consisted of men. She was passionate
approached was smiling and willing to
about the cause, had trouble keeping
have a short chat with us.
her beard straight and her hairy armpits reminded me of how feminism
The cobblestone streets with beautiful
is viewed by some (many?) of my
buildings topped with red tile roofs
students.
and cheerful containers of flowers are lovely and have a vibrant feel.
We walked back through rue Victor
Despite their age, most have been
Hugo toward Place Bellecour. A group
beautifully maintained and the intricate
riding segways raced across the square
woodwork, corbels and ironwork make
and stopped at one end to take a group
me feel like I’ve stepped back in time.
photograph. Others were much less
I’m delighted to see how the city of
active. Sitting, conversing, observing,
Lyon has not destroyed their historical
drinking a beverage, in short ‘flâner’ on
heritage to put up cookie cutter homes
Monday afternoon July 14th in Lyon.
and businesses, but rather has kept true to its ancient roots.
ANGELA
I look forward to learning more about
First Impressions: A Historic Heritage
this beautiful, vibrant city and its friendly people!
During the walkabout today, I was impressed at the historic connects still amply displayed. There were old churches lining the cobblestones, and
35
36
“Lyon seems to be a city that embraces the past while also continuing to move forward.“
37
Tuesday Observation # 2
Layers of Lyon: Food, History, Secrets “The first time I heard Einstein’s advice about the way to view the world, it seemed rather foolish to me.” Kristen A Layer of Lyon
carts with compartments
I sit on stone steps
shopping lists and dinner
warmed by the morning sun and fasten my eyes on the Quai Saint-Antoine market—a riotous splash of color and scent, quiet and energy. The sellers are confident, comfortable with the customers perusing their wares. They know their product and it delivers— you can sense their pride and they share it—“Bonjour! Voulezvous goûter?” Many don’t resist, they try and they buy, happy with the purchase they came to make. The buyers are prepared, toting woven baskets with worn 38
leather handles, pull for fruit, for vegetables, party menus. What else could one gentleman need with nine zucchini? The market is but one layer of the real Lyon, one piece of daily Lyonnaise life—that piece, when coupled with traboules, show a thicker, richer side of how the streets have been or were once used. Was the Quai Saint-Antoine market still held daily, as the traboules were used for silk-workers, for possible Resistance fighters and their careful navigation of Lyon?
Shad Almost at Ease Three women, entirely unfamiliar and new to me, emerge from a traboule - one that does not appear on our map. I’m distracted, and curious to learn what they saw. I hesitate, but engage one by saying “Bonjour, qu’est-ce que vous avez trouvé dans la traboule?” I’m not even sure that I said something, but the one in the middle (and incidentally, the best dressed among them) replied in English with something akin to: “There’s not much in that traboule, there are better ones down the
39
street”. I was somewhat
cleverly quaint in its
and the perfect weather
stunned to learn that
obfuscated light and
encouraged strolling and
someone might be able
serene silence. Upon
observing. I watched and
to understand my French
entering this latter space,
listened as a middle-aged
mutilations, and even
at once we began to have
woman chatted with a
more surprised to hear
fun and gel as a cohort.
man buying peaches.
her reply in English. The
My understanding of this
They obviously knew
three strange women
unique city has begun its
each other from previous
with clear New Jersey
evolution.
encounters and were
accents continue walking
discussing the man’s
south as I notice my
vacation plans. The farm
cohorts have entered a
Susan
shop.
One Must Regard the
he was spending his
Universe As a Friendly
August vacation and he
Place
described his plan to visit
In this brief and rare moment, I became
Greece. In her turn, she
content with the day’s
The first time I heard
explained the rigors of
adventures. We started
Einstein’s advice about
farming in the summer
our afternoon with
the way to view the
and the necessity to
trepidation, nervous
world, it seemed rather
work even harder in
about the expectation
foolish to me. In light of
August. Interesting to
of “finding” folkloric
wars, famine, injustice,
me was that she was
Lyonnaise treasure
and other cruelties
displaying high good
chests; “Are you sure that
only too apparent,
humor as she replied,
counts as a traboule?”
how can one ignore
“but in my dreams I’ll be
Indeed, by the middle
all too obvious misery
going to the Caribbean
of the afternoon, we
and insist on a positive
this winter”. The lively
successfully map “the
interpretation?
nature of this exchange
best and the worst
40
woman asked where
actually revealed her
of Lyon’s traboules.”
I shopped at an open-air
contentment with her
Whereas one seemed
produce market on the
circumstances.
rather anticlimactic in
Quai des Célestins at 9:00
its simplicity and lack of
on a Tuesday morning.
All during the rest of
clandestine relationship
The fruit and vegetable
the day, I continued to
to the rest of the city-
tables displayed the lush
meet friendly and happy
scape, another seemed
offerings of surrounding
people. I spoke to three
perfectly hidden, yet
farms and orchards,
teenagers, asking about
school and job prospects in Lyon. They seemed pleased to talk, and when the three passed us later as we were sitting at a café, they waved and smiled as if we were old friends. I
In unfamiliar places, especially big cities, we think it realistic to react with suspicion and fear, causing reactions that breed hostility and aggression.
asked a man and woman sitting on some steps if they could direct us to the traboules. They opened the magazine they had just bought, turned to the page, and gave me the magazine after pointing us in the right direction. Clearly, by acting in this generous and compassionate way, these inhabitants of Lyon necessarily reveal their own spirit of contentment. In unfamiliar places, especially big cities, we think it realistic to react with suspicion and fear, causing reactions that breed hostility and aggression. It seems that no one in Lyon has been taught this. Did Einstein ever live here?
ANN Observation Exercise #1
her whether they spoke English. He said no and she said “un peu”. I asked if I could watch her order
The morning assignment
and she looked puzzled
on Day 2 was a challenge
but agreed. After she had
in several ways.
ordered about 6 items, mostly different kinds
My challenge had to do
of sausage, she paid the
with my embarrassing
bill and I asked her if she
inability to speak or
would mind helping me
understand French. As I
order. She kindly said she
watched, I noticed that a
would and when I asked
patron had approached
about the chicken pâté
the meat stall which my
she told me that the duck
group members had
pâté was best and then
discovered was family-
told me how to order a
owned for 3 generations.
enough for one person.
I decided to try to make my lack of language skills
As you may have
work for me. The woman
guessed, this was the
was about my age. I
high point of my day
noticed that she and the
because I had turned an
owner were exchanging
inadequacy into an asset
greetings most amicably.
and had successfully
I went close and when
negotiated a transaction
they looked my way I
-- primarily because of a
asked first him and then
gracious Lyon woman. 41
I’m learning to say “merci” instead of “thank you” but it doesn’t come easy.
42
There it is again -- “graceful.” I checked
an amphitheater), the ugly church,
the dictionary meanings for the
the traboules -- reminders of Nazi
Latin word Gratia to see why it kept
brutality, the street of 14th century
recurring to me. I was delighted to
homes of dispossessed Jews which
see how well it supports my adjective
ironically became pathways of escape
for this city -- charm, grace; favor,
for Resistance fighters, the surly waiter
influence, regard, friendship; kindness,
in the touristy area who was annoyed
service; gratitude, thanks. I’m learning
that we didn’t want lunch, only drinks,
to say “merci” instead of “thank you”
even though we paid 15 euros for the
but it doesn’t come easy.
service!
The afternoon offered another view of
On balance I stand by “graceful”
Lyon in many ways -- the breathtaking
despite the insight we had today by
views from Fourvière, the truly vieux
physically entering the spaces where
Lyon -- the reality of ancient Roman
the war for freedom was fought with
presence in the form of 2 theaters (not
such loss of life and humanity.
ALEX
woman behind the table seemed to
Above and Viande
make no effort to attract passers-by.
When we arrived at the morning
was working for them, however, as
market, however, I resolved to make the best of it and to tackle the experience head on. I went to every meat vendor I could find (all three of them) and asked what their specialty was. I received varying degrees of reaction and responses, but my favorite answer came from l’ardechois. The l’ardechois was a stand in the center of the market with bright red and white stripes. Unless they were practicing telepathy, the man and the
This bold and cutting edge strategy theirs was the most popular of the stands that sold meat. As with the others, I asked was their specialty was. Apparently the pate is the best, but which variety is up for debate. As I observed the people selling meat at the market and in the city I came to the understanding that they took great pride in what they did. For the woman at l’ardechois the stand was a part of her history and will eventually become 43
We found the thread of community is woven into brilliant patterns throughout all of the places we went today in the manner of a rich silk tapestry.
44
45
her legacy. They didn’t try
riverside boulevard. It’s
out a bag of nuts with a
to be aggressive and sell
not overly warm yet,
twist of his wrist, smiles
to customers walking by
not in the shade but
as he chats with his
because they believed in
the gentle breeze is still
patron, a young woman
the quality of their meat.
quite welcome. The vivid
in a long, flowing skirt
The butcher had been
reds, greens, blues, and
and wrap-around shirt,
working in his shop for
yellows of the plumpest
with a large plastic bag
37 years and although
variety of all manner of
looped over one arm.
I never saw him handle
vegetables and fruits
He accepts her payment,
the meat, I did see him
are arrayed on tables,
returns her change, and
clean a window with
shaded by block after
they continue talking for
great care and patience.
block of plastic awnings.
a few more moments.
half of the care that he
It’s a quiet affair, either
The scene repeats
uses to clean a window
by necessity – the sounds
with haricot verts or
(as I’m sure he does) then
of construction make
aubergines, beautiful
his sections are of the
conversation challenging
framboises and fluffy
highest quality.
– or by long standing
heads of lettuce. These
practice. There are
complicated steps to an
These encounters were
clearly a set of unwritten
intricate dance form the
some of my favorite of
rules for navigating that
foundational blocks that
the day. I really enjoy
these families know
create a community of
going and speaking to
effortlessly.
commerce.
inspired to see them be
At one table, a woman
We found the thread
so passionate about what
carefully lays out an
of community is woven
they do.
exact number of fuzzy
into brilliant patterns
peaches on a silver
throughout all of the
tray, her strong, sun
places we went today
If he makes his cuts with
people and I was truly
TRISH
46
bronzed fingers deft and
in the manner of a rich
Community: Silken Threads
sure, her face creased
silk tapestry. At the
of Commonality
in concentration. She
top of the hill children
trades one for another,
played the silly bonding
The sun filters down
adds one more, cocks
games of children
though lacy layers of
her head and moves on
everywhere, running,
leaves to dapple the
to the next tray. Up the
laughing, shouting.
pavement along the
block, a man measures
Inside Fourvière, we
saw groups of people
be had! Now what?!!
coming together to
seller was attentive, his patience matching that
engage in the rituals of
Like an apprentice
of his customer. These
faith, lighting candles,
trailing the source of
items set aside, Pascal
kneeling, praying, finding
inspiration, I decided to
exuded tranquility as he
the sacred together. The
trail the buyers. For a
waited again as more
rituals of community
while I did this with one
time passed while other
here are as complex
of my companions and
transactions took place.
as those in the market
it was not long before
but here they form a
we became equally
community of faith.
intrigued by a gentle and
ANGELA
The hunt for the elusive
unobtrusive man. Pascal
Community and Beauty
traboule created a
was probably in his late
conspiracy among the
seventies. He was alone.
One theme that stands
visitors to which the
He carried a well-worn
out was the elegant and
locals were only too
and large wicker basket
understated beauty
happy to contribute.
with a faded red stripe
of the market. The
running through it. His
location was lovely, with
posture was slightly
a nice breeze flowing
ROZZY
stooped. Why were his
from the river. The
Le Privilège d’observation:
choices taking so long?
displays were even
Pascal et les courgettes
Why should I be anxious
more gorgeous, with a
to find out what would
beautiful assortment
The morning began
fill his basket? Finally,
of colors, shapes and
slowly in a quiet market
I watched Pascal place
textures on display. I
place replete with
one, two, three…nine
kept being drawn to take
exquisite vegetables and
courgettes in the metal
pictures on my second
fruits and the famous
shopping pan. Patiently
walkthrough out of sheer
Lyonnais saucisson.
he watched as other
appreciation for how
I was to observe, in
customers completed
beautifully displayed and
the company of my
their transactions, those
organized this scene was.
companions, the
on his right and on his
Merchants continually
interactions over le
left. Then five French
refilled containers and
traiteur, the prepared
peaches were carefully
reorganized containers
foods that lighten one’s
selected and placed
to display their products
culinary load, except for
next to the courgettes.
in the best possible way.
this: there was none to
Next, melons. The
The produce I observed
47
weren’t perfect- they
test its ripeness without
the afternoon. Is there
had blemishes and
a complaint being issued,
a connection? Let’s start
were sometimes slightly
then I did the same.
with our discussion
misshapen. But it felt overwhelmingly real.
on the church. I think Overall, my impression
it is an utterly ugly
of my observations is
church because it
I observed many
that the market isn’t
has no connection or
customers asking
so dissimilar from a
memory to any church
questions and vendors
farmers’ market back
anywhere. Is it less holy
answering them, even
home in North Carolina.
then? No, to be honest.
though I couldn’t
In both, the goal is to
I don’t care if anyone
understand the actual
buy and sell, but a lot
feels ‘holiness’ about a
words. I was relying
of socializing also takes
church. I see a church
on body language and
place there, too. I’ve
as a specific building,
context and the few scant
run into many friends
but still a building in a
words of French that
and acquaintances at
history of comparable,
were sufficiently close to
the farmers market,
likewise buildings. And
English or Spanish words
as seemed to be the
because this church
that I could muddle
case here in Lyon,
doesn’t try in any way
through it to make
too. The items were
to make a connection
meaning of the situation.
certainly displayed more
with the symbol ‘church’,
A customer would ask a
attractively than what
and (even worse) is also
question, and the vendor
I’m used to, but it was
not a creative way of
would come over and
the atmosphere that was
interpreting the symbol
have a chat, sometimes
different.
‘church’ in any way,
for a minute or longer.
I think this church is
In most cases, the
ugly. It lacks, so to say,
customers would either
RON
then collect items in a
Honest
large tin pan, or would
48
honesty, it lacks being itself, being (I don’t want to use the empty word
allow the vendor to select
A strange day. The
authentic here) honest
for them. I wasn’t sure
facilitators sent us to
toward the idea it stands
what the rules were, so
two completely different
for.
I tried to imitate others
places: the Quai Saint
in getting personal with
Antoine market in the
What connection is
the produce. If someone
morning and the walk
there between this kind
else picked up a peach to
along the traboules in
of dishonesty and the
The church does not look like a church and thus creates a kind of tension between the outside and its use.
in something else than
we should try to see
what is expected.
our surroundings with
Imagine an ordinary
‘constructing’ rather than
street with shops, doors,
‘connecting’eyes.
and walls. Some doors don’t seem to have a connection with the
MONIQUE
façade you are looking
Tales of Traiteurs and
at. Those are the ‘lost’
Traboules
doors which may give entrance to a traboule.
The traiteurs were
In these cases, there is
nowhere to be seen. The
a bell-panel next to the
situation required us to
traboules? Traboules
door. At the bottom of
improvise and to find
are hidden connections
the panel a single knob
another theme for our
between streets, crossing
without a name or any
observation assignment.
through building blocks
identification, is simply
What would it be? The
and connecting inner
‘door’ (porte, of course).
market wasn’t really
blocks to the street.
Pressing the button may
busy. The merchants
The original traboules
open this door, or may
had stalled out their
allowed one to choose
not. A well-kept secret
produce and didn’t let
one or another street
indeed: you never know
the lack of customers get
to exit into. Honest?
if the door will open.
to their ‘bonne humeur’.
No, not honest. But a
The produce was fresh
traboule hides a kind of
So here is the connection.
and the vendors looked
meaning, a specific kind
The vendor at the market
proud of what they were
of dealing with the word
is honest because he is
selling. They didn’t have
‘entrance’ or ‘connecting’.
selling his own wares
to shout it out; their
It is disordering in
and acts accordingly. The
produce spoke for itself.
comparison with the
church does not look
From the olive men to
‘normal’ order of door
like a church and thus
the flower lady who
and entrance. In that
creates a kind of tension
never stopped singing
way, comparable to the
between the outside and
(and told me to put
observation about the
its use. The traboules
away my pen and paper
church, it doesn’t connect
are hiding something.
because school was
to what is expected. It
They look ordinary
out for the summer, or
is hidden. It is wrapped
but are special. Maybe
hadn’t I noticed?)
49
50
The process of hunting for traboules is fun. The method is a bit awkward, but not if you are a child from the Netherlands. A saw a man with a straw bag and
where were these traboules? The
a list in his hand. We had decided
streets were busier, shops and puppets
to concentrate on the negotiations
and a street musician but no traboules
that take place between vendor and
in sight. Because you really had to look
customer but I found this older
for them, actually finding the first one
gentleman, grey hair, brown jacket
felt like a triumph. We did it! Intriguing
intriguing. He didn’t look as if he knew
passageways, beautiful light, pink walls,
where to go to buy the items on his list.
winding staircases. I was curious as to
He walked from one end of the market
how big the apartments were, were
to the other. He was new at this, looked
they expensive? Was it as difficult to
a bit uncomfortable and couldn’t
rent a traboule as to find the traboules?
seem to decide which of the stalls to
But just like the market place, the pride
choose from. Though many fruit and
of the traboules’ inhabitants could be
vegetables vendors were idle, he finally
felt in each courtyard we discovered.
decided for the busiest stall in the
We didn’t come across any of them
market area. He wanted the company.
but could see and feel their presence welcoming us to their Lyon.
Quite a contrast between the market and Fourvière, from quaint stalls to a pompous basilique, from a local activity
HANNAH
to a tourist attraction,and from a
Getting to know the real Lyon, Treasure
singing flower lady to groups of visiting
hunting
school children. Traboules hunting is interesting. At one The descent from Fourvière
time they provided a safe and efficient
went through steep and winding
passage for silk workers. The process
cobblestoned streets. They were
of hunting for traboules is fun. The
empty except for a city worker weeding
method is a bit awkward, but not if you
a small area next to a staircase. I
are a child from the Netherlands. It is
wondered if he had ever seen the
a bit like “Belletje Lellen”, something I
traboules? At one point I grew a bit
did when I was young. Belletje Lellen
impatient, the heat was taking its toll…
is a practical joke you play as you ring 51
someone’s doorbell
unlock this door? Is this a
To control a city like Lyon
and then quickly hide.
traboule? It felt like I was
the traboules can be a
Traboule hunting gave
Alice who is discovering
problem. Traboules can
me a bit of that same
the wonderland of
be used in different ways
feeling I had as a child.
Lyon. Each traboule
such as dealing in illegal
But when discovering
is different. They all
goods or a gathering
a traboule, you have to
have a different kind of
place for people who are
push the door really hard
beauty. The staircases
preparing a revolt or a
in order to enter the
were well preserved.
robbery. I want to know
passageway. When we
But in some traboules
how they have been used
opened the first doors
we found garbage and
in the past. I want to hear
and we walked through
that’s a pity. For me
the stories attached to
the passages I thought
the name traboule is
them.
“are we really allowed to
interesting because it
be here? Is it this not a
has a similarity with the
private area?”
pronunciation of the English word ‘trouble’. I
52
It was a game. Which
think the traboules are
door opens and what
beautiful but I also think
is behind it? Can we
they are controversial.
Each traboule is different. They all have a different kind of beauty. The staircases were well preserved.
53
“Traboule hunting gave me a bit of that same feeling I had as a child.� 54
55
Wednesday Observation #3
Social Construction of Spaces “Neighborhoods became homes and people became families and areas became Lyon.” Kristin
The young children
work. Confident of their
play in the only green
place and aim, they
I hope you don’t mind
space I’ve come across—
grab the can of paint,
the overlook is dirty,
make their mark, stand
neglected, overall
back, assess (imitation
holding a feeling of
is the highest form of
incompetence—and
flattery), and move back
I can’t help but think
in for another swipe of
that the local Lyonnais
the spray. The smell of
sense this same feeling.
acetone wafts through
If I only stay with what is
the air, but laughter
happening the answer
outweighs the scent and I
is nothing, but in this
move on.
that I put down in words… neighborhoods became homes and people became families and areas became Lyon. The Croix Rousse was a fascinating blend of familiar and strange— the stunning overlooks, the quiet streets, elementary schools, graffiti art, hundreds of steps, barracks, bastions… the layers of Lyon became that much more textured. How do the people function in the variance of place? How do they appear in the space of Lyon, the gardens, shops, grocers, and apartment buildings? 56
answer is something— something powerful and observable. I sense a
Shad
way of life in Lyon that is measured in people, not
Particularly salient at
places. The grass is cool
this point in my “CAT”
and the breeze blows
journey is Alan W.
through the makeshift
Grose’s appropriation
courtyard—jardin of
of Plato’s cave allegory
primary children spray
in “Platonic Thoughts
painting cellophane—
of the Frustrations of
mini graffiti artists at
Experiential Learning and
57
Teaching”.
sign, or tag, their art. Its
by way of enticing color
lack of dependence on
or formal attributes –
Grose offers: “It is only
an academy, or gallery
the graffiti artist. Like
in the individual mind
for that matter, elevates
any worthwhile art
that the world makes
graffiti beyond the
form, it bends the mind
sense…that the world
pretext of dependence
beyond its once static
will fail to make sense.”
upon theories of beauty
awareness of that which
Art, in the postmodern
and meaning. It becomes
it considered.
world, offers us far more
publicly private. At once,
than simply uglified,
graffiti relies upon the
beautified, beatified,
viewer to conjure its
Susan
and aestheticized
possibilities with an open
Real Life
opportunities to consider
mind. It can remain in
it; and instead in its
shadowed mystery, or
Arriving at the top of the
multiplicity we can ask
it can better be served
hill at Croix Rousse, a
almost any question
by bright illuminated
peaceful square where
of this privately public
light and an openness to
mothers pushed baby
art form. Graffiti is
multivalent readings.
carriages, old women
proudly and prominently
58
strolled dragging their
displayed throughout
Like any brilliant art form,
small shopping carts,
Lyon. Timeless as a
it strives to find itself,
young people were
form of art, its earliest
on its surface, “easy on
hurrying to work,
practitioners left behind
the eyes.” Like any truly
I noticed the calm
a vernacular language
brilliant art form, it exists
demeanor of all. This
of daily life supplanted
beyond its surface ever
was a place where life
within the grandeur of
changing beyond the
seemed to unfold at a
masterpiece sculpture
limits and indulgence of
very human pace.
and architecture.
its creator (henceforth referred to as: artist).
This part of the city
Graffiti serves us well
Like any progenitor of
owes a great part of its
in deciphering the
an enduring art form,
history to the silk trade,
meaning of a public
the artist challenges
the inventors of the silk
space encoded by the
the viewer to decipher
looms, and of course
private interactions
its temporal meaning.
the workers who lived
enacted by select and
Because of a tendency
with the looms in their
exclusive practitioners.
to address something
homes, sacrificing most
Indeed, these artists
more universal – if only
of the space to the loom
“Like any brilliant art form, it strives to find itself, on its surface, easy on the eyes.�
that drew my own
quality to life here that
immigrant grandparents.
has been extinguished at home. Is it the common
I set about exploring
identification with
the housing conditions
French values? Perhaps
and interviewing the
I need to look more
passers-by to hear their
closely at my city to see
opinions of daily life as
if I can discover these
lived in Lyon. I asked
aspects that I might have
the city worker hosing
overlooked.
down the alleyways. while eating and sleeping
He came from Tunisia
in the smaller space left
eight years ago and is
ANN
over. My city of Brockton,
raising his family here.
Is this Lyon?
Massachusetts grew as a
He is pleased with the
result of the more than
community life, calling it
Our group was assigned
eighty shoe factories that
safe and pleasant. I know
to explore an area of
drew immigrants to three
that if I posed the same
Croix Rouge which I
story tenements built
question in Brockton, I
was excited to see -- it
to house its workers.
would receive complaints
contained the remains of
After World War II, when
about working conditions
a Roman amphitheater
the armies no longer
and unfair wages, just
that pre-dated the
needed the shoes that
to start. In contrast,
Theater on Fourviere!
Brockton workers made,
two women preparing
It was built three
the industry, and the
to open their fledgling
years after Lugdunum
city that supported it
restaurant were excited
was founded, wiping
began its decline. In
about their future and
away my claim that
contrast, Lyon seems
seemed so happy to
the Romans early on
to have repurposed its
talk to us about their
brought sophisticated
buildings and renewed
prospects. They describe
entertainment to the
its economy. I hope
their neighbors as
Gauls. As always, popular
that I may witness the
convivial. I know that
loyalty to the emperor
revitalization of my
I am trying to simplify
was obtained through
city that incorporates
and understand the
bread & circuses! While I
the recent immigrants
conditions in two very
enjoyed photographing
and offers them the
different economies, but
the structure -- built with
opportunities to thrive
there is almost a spiritual
the same stone as the
59
“To get at the true nature of a place you have to catch a glimpse of her before she’s put on her makeup or on a day when he’s lounging around in his grubby clothes, relaxing away from his work persona.“
theaters, it wasn’t the high point of the
cafe in the Place Sathonay (we never
morning for me.
asked the meaning of the name!). Initially pretty empty, by the time we
60
Descending the steep paved incline
finished our drinks there were some
from The Place de la Croix Rouge
people seated nearby. I went to speak
with its apartments and gardens on
to two young women who had enough
each side, our group sought out a
English to make conversation possible.
cafe where we could sit with a drink
I found out that both were natives
and look around the area and find
of Lyon and were graphic designers
someone to help us better understand
-- one in her last year of school and
what we had been taking note of -- the
one working free lance. They lived in
graffiti at the top of the hill, the lack of
the neighborhood and liked it very
people in the area, the memorials we
much, saying it was very safe and
had seen. Attracted by the deep shade
full of families. Their response to the
created by the trees, we stopped at a
lack of people on the streets was that
husbands and wives both worked.
she’s put on her makeup or on a day
We continued our walk, ending at
when he’s lounging around in his
the Place des Terreaux, convinced
grubby clothes, relaxing away from his
that we had seen a viable, healthy
work persona.
neighborhood. My first impression of the area is of
TRISH
a neighborhood in decline. I wander
down one of the few green corridors
Circles of Connection…or Random
I’ve seen in Lyon, aware that the 70’s
Ramblings from the Top
tenement style building on the right feels like lower income housing, even
My working title for today’s observation
without the tangle of wire fencing, iron
was “It’s Got Layers, Like an Onion”. To
bars, and wooden slats that surround
get at the true nature of a place you
the base. Normally I think of fences to
have to catch a glimpse of her before
keep people out but sometimes they 61
“Coffee and tea yielded wonderful opportunities to speak with others in the square.” exist to keep people in.
The pair enters the
I don’t know which it is
playground. The child
here.
toddles off to join the other children while his
The sound of children’s
mother settles down to
laughter pulls me over
watch. She does not,
to sit on a wall in the
however, go huddle
shade of a tree. A small
with the other women.
playground is also
She sits down in the sun
nestled into the side
and pulls out an orange
of the hill immediately
balloon and begins to
adjacent to the school
inflate it. She finishes just
and I realize it is a
in time – the boy sees
pre-school. A group of
her treasure and squeals
children is completely
with delight, trotting over
absorbed in playing
to take the balloon away
with one another while
and bat it into the air.
their mothers huddle
He chases it around the
together in the only
fenced enclosure until
shade available. I can
it flies over the wall. He
sympathize as sweat slips
can’t quite believe his
down my back. A mother
precious toy is gone and
and child pair walk slowly
turns to his mother with
towards the playground,
a sound of dismay that I
their pace dictated by
can hear even from my
the child’s stride and I
position.
am suddenly struck by how genuinely caring the parents I have seen here act with their children.
62
ALEX La Croix-Rousse There was a statue in the place de la Croix-Rousse. It wasn’t very tall, it didn’t have a platform, and like most statues it was passed by many without even a second glance. Depicting a young couple deep in each other’s embrace, the statue had no plaque to mark it but transfixed me with its beauty nonetheless. It wasn’t vulgar. This was no testament to sexuality or a portrayal of beastly desires. It was an expression of love and of a deep connection between two human beings. All of this captured my attention, but perhaps the most interesting aspect of the statue was the unusual material it was made of. Rather than the wood or marble or bronze, this statue was made of flesh and blood. The statue stood there at the side of the square completely uninfluenced
by the river of people
assassination of Roger
I thanked him profusely
that flowed around it.
Flavot, a brave rĂŠsistant,
for his kindness and we
Then, before my very
whose tomb we now
talked at some length.
eyes, it pulled itself apart.
stood before. After
He particularly wanted
Reluctantly the two went
reading the solemn
to know if I had been
their separate ways,
plaque we asked several
to Normandy. I told
stopping every few yards
passers-by what they
him a touching story
to look back with longing
knew of this man and
of our then twelve and
at one another until one
if they could help us to
nine-year old children
of them disappeared
translate the French. As
and their poignant
around a corner. For a
I have found in every
experiences of this
few more moments the
neighborhood, square,
horror. It was a profound
other stared at that spot
and street, those whom
conversation we had
with wistful eyes, as if
I approach (always
and I was struck by his
to somehow summon
speaking in French at
gentleness and the time
its other half to return.
first) responded to my
that he took to converse
But then the statue was
queries with kindness
with a total stranger. I
gone, and there was no
and grace. These folks
particularly appreciated
marker, no plaque, and
did not have much
his encouragement
no memorial to show
information beyond
that I continue to visit
that it had ever even
some key translations,
France and to learn the
been there. I found
which were exceedingly
language. I cannot recall
myself in the statue’s
helpful, but it was my
the name of the square
position by the end of
abiding sense that they
but I am determined
the day, looking back and
were intrigued and
to learn more of Jean
hoping to see something
pleased by our interest.
Pierre Hippolyte Blandan,
that was already gone.
ROZZY Confluence des contrastes
whose statue sits in the Coffee and tea yielded
center reminding those
wonderful opportunities
who read the words at
to speak with others in
his feet, of his heroism
the square -- an architect
and honor.
from Avignon whose The most illuminating
shared interests in World
part of our day took
War II and whose respect
place at the bottom of
for what American
the terraces where we
soldiers did on D-Day
learned of the tragic
was particularly moving.
63
Confluence des contrastes
64
65
66
ANGELA
in Croix-Rousse, we found a lovely
A Ghost Town
little square ringed in bustling cafés
Today, our assignment was to observe
deserved beverage after our climb
two separate areas of Lyon. The first was Croix-Rousse on the steep sides of the hill towering over Lyon. The second was the Confluence region, where the Rhône and Saône Rivers begin to merge. Visually, other than the actual geography of the terrain of one being hilly while the other was flat, the two areas looked rather similar to
and small shops. We enjoyed a welldown, and observed those around us. There were only a few people, but they were chatting, kissing hello and just reading the newspaper. This felt like a common occurrence in this small square, like this was a real community with tight knit connections. The other district we visited, the
me.
Confluence, did not have that same
The Croix-Rousse was a steep
we saw very few people given the
neighborhood, and I question whether the original Lyonnaise people in the 1st district were part mountain goat. The Confluence area was mostly very flat as it lay at the nexus of two rivers. Both neighborhoods were very quiet areas. The buildings didn’t seem as historic or as well maintained as in other parts of the city that we saw previously, and there was ample non-artistic (to my untrained eye) graffiti. We saw very few people climbing the stairs, terraces
sense of community, probably because distance we traveled in the Confluence region and the amount of time we spent there. Many of the squares we saw during this visit were not being used to create community, but rather by apartments, individuals who were not interacting with any others. Even the Place Bellecour was filled with people today, with a market filling the northern end of the square. On Monday, Bastille Day, it was empty. So are today’s observations really valid?
and steep sidewalks that lacked steps or handrails in Croix-Rousse, and very few people period in the Confluence. It seemed like both areas were empty, like a town after a fast-acting plague
RON Freedom in Space
has wiped out the population.
As we continue to wander the city,
At the bottom of the hill, just below
about the history of this remarkable
the remains of a Roman amplitheatre
I’m making observations and learning city, but I’m left with more questions
67
68
than answers about who
observation is that
we make clear to others
the Lyonnais truly are
personal freedom is
where our boundaries
and how they live.
limited by the boundaries
are? And can we make
Sitting on the terrace
people force you to
them in a way that gives
of a cafe, two men and
respect. If your actions
other people as much
a woman arrive. They
disturb the actions of
space and freedom as
giggle. As one of the men
others, something is
possible for all?
touches the woman’s
wrong. If there are no
back, she almost tears
boundaries, nobody
his head off. The other
has anything to respect.
MONIQUE
man seems drugged.
So the owner and the
Reality check
They talk loudly. They
square itself, make
speak and act in a way a
clear what is acceptable
When I walk through a
painter would describe as
behavior, without a sign,
city, I keep its true nature
surreal. They dominate
rules, or any written
at arm’s length. I am
the small space by the
description, what the
comfortable choosing
slightly intimidating
space is for. Unwritten
the tourist route which is
volume of their voices
rules must be followed.
safe, pristine and offers
and by their movements.
And seemingly it does
an easy access to the
Each one alone is no
not matter if it concerns
unknown. Where I have
problem, but all together
a square or a few
to go and what I have to
they pose a threat. The
people; they both need
see is clearly illustrated
owner of the bar comes
to observe basic rules
in a neat, manageable
out and softly, but in
to maintain a certain
package. The work has
clear body language,
amount of trust. So the
been done for me. I
warns the three, “behave
observation revealed
experience attractions
or I’ll kick you out”.
something we tend to
not the city.
After a few pretty quiet
forget: freedom is fine,
minutes, they order wine
but limits exist. What
The Croix Rousse has
and disappear.
do we give up, or not
nothing to do with my
want to give up? Who
natural tourist habitat.
I want to explore the
points out where the
It is Lyon, but far from
influence of social
boundaries are, and how
a standard tourist
behavior in open space
do we maintain these
attraction. I am moving
as an important issue
boundaries? Are we
in a space where one
in feeling free. What
capable of finding our
section of the population
I learned from the
own boundaries? Can
lives, a group that I had
not yet come across
I wanted to explore and
them where on the map I
in my explorations
attempt to experience
was. It took them a while
of this city. They are
what it means to live
to figure out where it was
not the shopkeepers
there.
on the map. Is the map
of the old city or the Lyonnais enjoying a
so unreadable or is it the
drink on a terrace. They
HANNAH
have little in common
Inaccessible Lyon
with the flâneurs that I
difficult structure of the city? Walking away from
had witnessed during
I hope you don’t mind
the Boulevard Croix-
my first days in this
that I put down in words,
Rousse we walked into
city. The surrounding
how nice it is to explore
another neighborhood.
concrete edifices
areas of Lyon with people
It was quiet, not a lot of
connote foreignness that
from another country.
people in the streets.
subsequently connotes
If I explore an area on
There are many schools
ominousness. Initially
my own or with friends
concentrated around
I did not have a sense
we look at things in the
St Bernard’s, which was
of belonging. Had I
same way, because we
closed. Seemingly typical
not been with a group
have the same interests.
of the area, another
I would have left this
But if I am exploring an
church, the Church of
place. It had nothing to
area with total strangers,
the Good Shepherd, was
do with me.
I can talk about what I
also closed to the public.
see without censoring my
The Church of the Good
words.
Shepherd is accused
In another moment, I entered the most
of bad design by the
magnificent traboule and
During our exploration
Lyonnais, who criticize
my perspective changed.
on Croix Rousse we saw
it as “an uninspired
The space was at the
a handful of tourists.
imitation of the medieval
same time overwhelming
I spoke to a young girl
Poitou style” and
and welcoming. Steel
in a group of 15 French
“interesting for its sheer
and concrete had
tourists led by a guide.
inaccessibility”.
been translated into
When I asked her what
a communal space, a
the tour was about, she
place that facilitated the
said “the guide is telling
creation of a community.
us about some culture
It was no longer an area I
thing”. Talking to four
wanted to leave but one
French people, I asked
69
70
“When I walk through a city, I keep its true nature at arm’s length.”
71
Optional WWII Reflection Writing
Lyon in the Context of World War II At the Montluc Prison and the Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation. ROZZY
and erudite guide took
two men today, Claude
Une générosité d’esprit
us slowly through the
Bloch, a Montluc/
solemnity of Montluc
Auschwitz survivor at the
It almost seems intrusive
and answered our
Montluc Prison and Guy
probing questions with
Sanglerat, a résistant
skill and grace. It was
at the Centre. M. Bloch
clear that this was more
talked about the gift of
than a job to Pierre.
life his mother had given
Recounting the stories
to him two times: birth
of the prisoners, as he
and the advice to wear
knew them, from Jean
pants and not shorts,
Moulin to the ‘butcher of
pushing him toward
Lyon’, Klaus Barbie, was a
the line of men and
sacred job. Pierre sought
away from mothers and
to communicate the
children in the line of
accurate nuances of the
selection at Auschwitz
museum’s intention to
to join the men in long
present this harsh history
pants. I wondered how
in its most accurate and
this dear and brave man
glaring light.
could stand there and
to render an observation on the things that we saw and heard today at the Montluc Prison and the Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation. The horror of torture and the courage of resistance cannot be quantified or expressed, most especially because of the impossible task of wrestling with such a magnitude of unspeakable sorrow and unimaginable bravery. Pierre, our dignified 72
tell us these personal We had the extraordinary
details of his searing life,
privilege of listening to
translated so tenderly
“The horror of torture and the courage of resistance cannot be quantified or expressed.�
73
and respectfully by the ineffably kind
John Bailly reached out and laid a
John Bailly.
gentle had on his back as M. Sanglerat wrestled with his emotion. It was
We were given the privilege of asking
another moment of grace and an act
him questions at the end. M. Bloch
of kindness and love I shall not soon
talked about the morale and spirit
forget.
that, above all things, kept him alive. He was so young, he said, fifteen;
“What we do matters” the Holocaust
the possibility of death did not occur
museum reminds us. What Messieurs
to him. I asked him if it was morale
Bloch and Sanglerat did for us today
and spirit that allowed him to tell
will allow us to engage our students,
his story. “Responsibility”, he said. It
each other, and all those in our midst,
was the clearest moment of the past
however we might do that. We can
and the present unfolding all at once
continue to keep company with them
through the unique prism of history.
as they bear witness and transmit their
It filled this tiny room on the grounds
courage, kindness, and grace in the
of Montluc Prison and every person
face of terrifying brutality to a world
as rivited. M. Bloch stood nobly and
that is yet troubled by torturous and
resolute throughout, his arms folded
heinous acts. These extraordinary
across his chest and the number
gentle men risked once more the
8-3572, an unmistakable imprint of the
terrors of their past, transcending the
concentration camp that claimed more
meaning of community in their selfless
than ten months of his life on his left
acts of love.
arm. Guy Sanglerat, a résistant from Annecy
Trish
became a fearless liaison and force
74
in the resistance of Lyon, risking
I sit in the too warm room, drowsy,
his life over and over again in the
awestruck, and awkward. I have no
transmission of life-saving evidence. M.
idea what to say, how to connect here.
Sanglerat was eager to communicate
Sweat runs down my face, my neck,
his experiences, to inform, to engage
my back as it has all morning long,
all of us in facing the horrifying past
but I am aware that any suffering I am
of occupation, war, and Holocaust.
experiencing is the least to have ever
M. Sanglerat teared up and struggled
transpired within these squat, ugly
to speak when recounting the safe
walls. My mind drifts, sifting through
return of his father, a prisoner of war.
memories of my grandfather, a strong,
“I am aware that any suffering I am experiencing is the least to have ever transpired within these squat, ugly walls.”
quiet Illinois farmer who served in
was used by townspeople for target
the army in Europe in World War II.
practice. There was another story
I remember his rarer than tantalum
about a young German soldier who
stories about the war, horrible gifts he
surrendered late in the war, terror and
didn’t share until sometime after I’d
a desperate desire for survival driving
graduated from college.
him to lay down his gun. I don’t know what ending I’d expected the tale to
There was a story about the German
have but the casually brutal description
paratrooper whose chute was caught
of the villagers taking the man away
on a church steeple. He’d been
and feeding his remains to the hogs
snagged in such a way that he couldn’t
left me reeling for a reaction.
get to a knife and couldn’t work his way free. He’d been trapped on the steeple
These were the parts of the war that
all night. In the morning, his body
continued to haunt him. He told them 75
76
77
once and once only
grandsons – and it’s a
themselves in the Red
before he returned to the
sweet victory indeed.
Scare is rooted in the
present, never to take us
78
timeframe in which I was
there again. My dashing,
I am familiar with the
pragmatic, wonderful
events of World War
raised.
grandfather who always
II, was once fascinated
Still, the idea of Lyon
smelled of cigarettes and
with the time period and
surrendering with only
menthol; who loved my
read everything I could
a tiny whimper from the
mother and his wife so
find on the subject but
Senegalese solders is
deeply he’d have done
somehow Lyon never
troubling. The injustice of
anything for them; who
appeared. I’d read about
that whole scene makes
always wanted to travel
the famed Maginot Line,
me writhe internally with
to Australia where a boy
about the way Germany
impotent anger. It’s a
who’d once shared a
had steamrolled across
battle long over but the
foxhole with him was, by
France meeting little
emotional impact still
chance, destroyed by a
resistance. I’d heard
remains. I wanted to find
bomb right next to him.
the jokes about how the
the cemetery and pay
My grandfather, my hero,
French had a different
my respects to those
whose pain was so deep
flag in every closet for the
brave men but have
and well buried we only
invasion and I know that
found it is located a few
ever glimpsed it from the
the truth is a complex
kilometers from Lyon.
side.
thing, locked in the
I did a little research,
past and lacking a true
having assumed that the
This man before me
contextual framework. It
French were no better
is a hero as well. He
makes me think vaguely
than the Germans in
stands among those
of my mother telling
this. I found that the
who entered that hellish
me how they used to
bodies of the Senegalese
space and came back
have nuclear war drills
were scattered across
from the crucible to tell
in school where they
the countryside by
us of it. Every hard won
would duck and cover.
the Germans who
line, wrinkle, and gray
My cynical reaction of
instructed the French
hair tell a story of a life
how they wouldn’t live to
to leave them and not
well lived. He achieved
see the mushroom cloud
erect any markers. In
the only victory that
if it came to it coupled
1942, however, they
ever mattered – three
with the inability to
went around the edict
sons with three sons
comprehend how they
by creating a cemetery
and a couple of great
could have ever found
to honor all soldiers
from Senegal, Gabon,
back and just let events
he would like to publish
Dahomey, Ivory Coast
happen. But Montluc is
his book in English and
and Sudan. The
full of images of people
that he would ask his
defenders of Lyon were
who didn’t do that and
granddaughter to help
then reburied there. It
the Centre d’Histoire
him e-publish. Had
was created to resemble
de la Resistance et de
Lyon thrown their lot
an African burial ground
l’Importation is full of
in with the Senegalese
with soil from the various
clips of resilience and
and fought the Germans
countries mixed into the
courage and hope.
rather than allowing
French earth. It seems a
them through, it would
fitting tribute to me...it is
The element that runs
have been unavailable
something in any case.
through all the stories
as an organizational
we heard yesterday is
headquarters for the
Yet maybe I just need
the fact that had events
resistance. Had my
to try to understand
transpired even a little
grandfather been with
how terrifying and
differently, we might
his Australian friend in
disorienting it must have
have been looking at an
the adjacent foxhole on
been for France to have
image of Monsieur Bloch
that one critical day, I
their entire defense
on the walls at Monluc
would never have been
bypassed and how that
rather than hearing him
born. It’s the little things
might have sent the
tell of his three sons,
that make me wonder if
leadership stumbling
nine grandsons, and two
there is a plan after all.
back to regroup. Or
great grandsons. Had
to see how inevitable
the guards done more
it seemed that Hitler
than a cursory search
would take over and
and found the illicit
how little influence the
newspapers he carried in
French people had on the
his pants we might have
decisions made on high.
been reading Monsieur
I certainly understand
Sanglerat’s story from
how precariously
a plaque on the wall at
balanced life was at
the Centre d’Histoire
that time, how a single
de la Resistance et de
wrong word or look
l’Importation rather than
could end your existence
being in the presence
and I see how easy it
of such vibrant energy,
would have been to sit
listening to him say that
“The injustice of that whole scene makes me writhe internally with impotent anger.” 79
“I wanted to find the cemetery and pay my respects to those brave men but have found it is located a few kilometers from Lyon.�
80
81
Turning Point Essays
Introduction After the initial walkabout sketch, and a series of observations of people, places, activities, interactions, we turned to a closer examination of our individual ways of seeing and interacting, of selecting and comparing. We re-read all we had written and we wrote a focused commentary on ourselves as explorers of this particular place, Lyon.
By the final evening in this Institute you
think about these topics as you shape
will have developed your own sense of
your essay:
place – ways to ‘recognize’ Lyon, even if you are thousands of miles away.
What do you understand – or see -
Think about what stands out in your
differently about facades and secrets
visual, auditory, gustatory, imagination
in a city that presents itself as Lyon
as you think through the many places
does, than when you arrived in
and people you’ve encountered this
town? To what event(s), interaction(s)
week. You have some feeling for
or reading(s) do you attribute this
how locals, as opposed to French
understanding or shift in perspective?
people who are not local, interact with
Why?
outsiders. Think back on what incidents or observations lead you to think about Lyon in these particular ways. You’ve been gawking, eavesdropping, seeking help, eating and reading. As you write up your Turning Point Essay, reflect on the full range of sights and sounds, places and people that have crowded into your week in town. The format (categories to consider, wherever you’ve put your response to them) is familiar to you. But this time 82
You’ve been gawking, eavesdropping, seeking help, eating and reading.
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Turning Point Essays
Recognizing Lyon “Neighborhoods became homes and people became families and areas became Lyon.” Kristen
a secret corridor into the
barbershop. Taking
Recognizing Lyon
heart of Lyon; how the
one suitcase to another
scent and light of Saint
train station. Going
The familiarity of Lyon
Jean stay with you or how
when told to go. These
the coldness of Montluc
(seemingly) small acts?
doesn’t leave once the
They required enormous
sun is on your face.
courage. Mssrs. Sanglerat
rests in more than just a few simple things. And her characteristics, hidden at first, are now quite recognizable. The history of Lyon is welldocumented online. I had only to enter the word ‘Lyon’ in a search engine to read about population, socio-economic standards, her Roman and Gaul ancestry, the silk trade, gastronomy, education… the list goes on and on. But this research cannot tell me how the cinnamon sauce of the Lyonnaise quenelle melts in your mouth or how the traboules open 84
and Bloch embodied This is real Lyon—
the foundational layer
behind the façade,
of integrity when they
behind the new and
fought for what they
the old—a city with
knew to be right and
strength of character
stayed strong in the face
and movement. Layered
of what they knew to be
with thick tradition yet
wrong. They still do. By
philosophically reflective,
sharing their story, their
Lyon asks us to consider
petite narrative, they
how and why, rather
invest in Lyon and in
than only when or where.
the people of Lyon in a
These layers remind
priceless way.
me of personality and character, the not-so-little
So, a shift in perspective?
parts that make up the
Absolutely. One I am
larger whole. Distributing
not likely to forget. The
Le Coq Enchaîné in one
integrity of self is my
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“My quest for an experience of the senses reveals much about who I am, as much as it informs the way in which I perceive the city.”
turning point. Study
time in Lyon - if not
and research and even
literally then by way
City-as-Text are useless
of my recollections of
if there isn’t a change in
“sensory” experiences.
the ability to shift, reflect
My second reflection
on, and understand your
paper acknowledges
own hermeneutic. Lyon,
my strong, sometimes
in my humble and fairly
controverted view on art:
nascent opinion, has
“I am reluctant to limit art
integrity. Lyon is new
to a particularly narrow
and yet old, but each
set of parameters.”
place and space owns its
By art, I mean all art:
history, whether short
architecture, painting,
or long, thin or thick.
sculpture, music,
The merging of the two,
theater, and so on.
whether in modern glass
Good art versus bad art,
additions onto 18th
pleasant sounds versus
century churches or in
unpleasant images,
the modernization of
and so on, populate
Perrache, the station for
conversations with my
hastens to reference
the last deportation of
aesthete colleagues.
both Bernini and Palladio,
Lyon in World War II—I
My bias to shut out
yet its present denies
see a strength in this city.
these conversations
a passive reverence
Strength that embraces
as irrelevant or boring
for such masters of
its past, however tragic
has limited me in my
form and space. I know
and noble and moves
explorations as much
there’s more than meets
forward with grace and
as does defining art by
my senses.” I’ve been
integrity.
those “narrow sets” of
trained to be critical,
rules or criteria.
even cynical, in my assessment of how art
Shad
My first impression
or history is written,
With Myself in Lyon:
of Lyon was not a
oftentimes through a
Permission to Participate
complimentary one. I
lens of the heroic, the
wrote: “How different
romanticization of a
Music served as a
than Rome can be
place or object, and
prominent theme for
this place Lyon? Its
classified neatly or
the duration of my
architecture no doubt
succinctly according to
the precepts of science or objective rationality. My quest for an experience of the senses reveals much about who I am, as much as it informs the way in which I perceive the city. My preference for the Croix Rousse brought me back to its streets last night, mostly on foot and entirely without an entourage. Was my experience, thus, more authentic? Any attempt at a conclusion will yield a less-than- interesting discourse. The dead end I continue to face takes me away from the unique flavor of Lyon, forcing me to reference Rome or London or Munich or Dublin, Chicago, New York, and even Madison, WI where I live. Rather, I ask myself, was my experience conclusive in bringing me closer to Lyon – both old and new? Yes – but only when I stopped assuming permission was necessary to enter beyond some limit.
Susan
all of human life. Perhaps
Awaken and Give Thanks
there are no neutral
Only connect the prose
that each tiny thought
and the passion and human love will be seen at its height; live in fragments no longer. -E. M. Forster E. M. Forster’s counsel to connect words and emotion in order to reach the fullness of the human potential for love reinforces the message of the narratives of the two survivors of World War II, Claude Bloch and Guy Sanglerat. In spite of the torture they endured, they use their stories with the hope that they may save others their pain. They do not ask for justice or revenge; they do not rant in anger. They tell the truth of their experience in order to teach love and compassion. To “live in fragments no longer” urges that we weigh our choices to make very certain that each minute decision reinforces and nurtures
thoughts or choices and impulse holds infinite ramifications for creation or destruction. As an observer of Lyon and not one who has participated in its history, I wonder about the seemingly random twists of fate that consign some to torture in the intentional plan of a monster to eradicate a whole nation. I marvel at the courage of those who dared to fight for justice for others. It seems that in every age compassion must be relearned. The victims of the Holocaust and the members of the Resistance in Lyon were joined by many others whose lives were lost or wounded as they fought for justice. I was also made aware of the interconnectedness of all human life when all of us who watched the testimony of the victims of Klaus Barbie reacted with such emotion. Our
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empathy is a visceral reaction that is
capable of heroic action, of good faith,
a part of race memory. We know that
endurance in the face of degradation
we participate in the shared life. We
and violence, the question arose of
rejoice and suffer as others rejoice
how and why so many in this city
and suffer. My impressions and my
resisted Nazi occupation and terrorism.
experiences of Lyon will be forever a
Was it patriotism? Hatred of the
reminder of the debt we owe to the
Germans? Love of city? Mountain-
past and a charge to venerate those
bred courage? Or, like Antigone, was
of every age upon whose experience
saying NO to unregulated power
we are allowed to thrive and even
more important than life? Jean
flourish. Each individual owes a debt
Moulin stands out as a brave soldier
to the community. The lesson is that
of the Resistance who in recognition
the one life is inextricably connected
of his human limitations, brought
to all life. Our duty is to recognize
about his own death. The trial and
our connections, to give thanks, to
imprisonment for life of Klaus Barbie
remember, to serve in our turn, and to
is a testament to French heroic refusal
“live in fragments no longer”.
to descend to his depravity and engage in just retribution! How horrible and traumatic a moment in time and yet
ANN not unique in Lyon’s history except for Turning Points: Lyon 2014
its unforgivable sadistic cruelty and pervasive evil.
My Turning Point came about on Thursday with our visits to the Montluc
Yet Lyon rises from this terrible
prison, the Museum of Deportation
suffering, apparently healed. Its
and Resistance, the two testimonies we
graceful buildings, like its people,
heard from survivors of a brutalizing
have survived, the damage repaired
time who did not let themselves be
or endured. Descendants and
brutalized, and the unplanned viewing
immigrants have filled and renewed
of the video of the trial of Klaus Barbie.
them, people whose diverse ethnic
That day turned “graceful Lyon” into
presence disproves the false Aryan
a dark and frightening place, the site
myth of superiority. The city grows
of hunter and hunted, a place where
gracefully into the 21st century, with
the capacity for human darkness
hope in the future and adjusting to
confronted the capacity for human
new economies, tourism among them,
resistance to terror and pain. Beyond
while mindful of old traditions. What
the question of whether I would be
has being here taught me these last
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few days? We all die, but
pieces of the city, like
died here have long
how we lived survives in
different parts of a
sinced passed. But by
monuments and human
whole. I recognized
interpreting the city as
memory and is not lost
that what I saw in these
a whole through these
with individual lives.
neighborhoods reflected
places, by reading deeper
on the people who lived
into the city as one would
there, but I didn’t make a
with text, we can find
connection to the greater
the meaning that never
city at large. These areas
left.
ALEX Drawing Connections
were all different, just like
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My perspective and
our drawings. But also
understanding of
just like our drawings,
TRISH
things in Lyon has
these places are a
The Great Melting Pot of
changed a great deal
reflection of the city as a
Lyon
over the course of the
whole. These shouldn’t
week. I have a new
be treated as separate
I’d done the background
understanding of what
districts to be compared,
reading. I knew that we
art is, I know much more
they should be viewed
come into experiences
about why buildings
as lenses through
with our own filters,
are the way the are and
which to see Lyon, as
that city planning has
what they should be,
interpretations of what it
been stagnant for a
and I have undergone
means to be Lyonnaise.
long time, that Lyon is
a transformation in my
Clifford Geertz said that
known as a food mecca,
perspective that Perrier
one of the schools of
and that it played a key
is mineral water and
sociological thought
role in World War II.
not Sprite. All of these
compares human action
Somehow these pieces
are meaningful and
to writing. Even when
of information were
interesting revelations,
the act is long gone, the
going to help me draw a
but none are as
meaning persists. If we
different kind of map as
important as this idea
look at the city and the
I delved deeper into the
of reflection because of
areas that we visited
city and I was open to
how it connects to how
in the same way, then
figuring out how.
we can see Lyon.
what we see now is the
great novel of Lyon. The
I quickly discovered that
All week I saw the
people who built this city,
Lyon is a complicated
different areas that
who lived and worked
space, one that
we visited as separate
here, who fought and
consists of layers. Each
“I quickly discovered that Lyon is a complicated space, one that consists of layers.”
skateboard or scooter
and hot coffee from
wheels on pavement,
a Starbucks on every
random strains of music
corner. I was really
floating on the air. A
interested in identifying
confused jumble of
how I could possible
scents contributes a new
feel comfortable in
layer to the experience,
a locale so relatively
drifting on the breeze,
exotic. Were the people
the acrid scent of smoke,
that good at building
the aroma of spices from
community? Now I am
cooked food, the sour
having trouble coming
stench of sewage, the
back to community in
exploration we took was
overpowering smell of
Lyon, partly because
like a different jewel set
perfume and cologne
my view on that has
into a glittering necklace,
and body odor, while
not changed since the
each unique, each
a mad splash of colors
beginning of the week.
sparkling with an inner
of all sorts painted the
I think these people
fire, beautiful in isolation
landscape, dark reds,
are good at community
but somehow more when
brilliant yellows, deep
building and doing so
combined together.
browns and so many
intentionally. Lately I’ve
Within every experience,
more.
been contemplating how the space might reflect
we found all of the beautiful messiness
It’s funny to think that
the nature of the people
that goes with being
I started the week
and their interest in
human. The sounds of
thinking almost entirely
making connections and
the city create a kind of
about community,
building community.
symphony, conversations
neighborhoods, and
rising and falling in
how I felt to be in them.
the fluid rhythms
I focused entirely on
ROZZY
of beautiful French,
my own reactions and
De l’autre côté de la folie:
silverware clinking on
perceptions, comparing
de l’espoir et la puissance
plates, construction
what I found here to
de la grâce
equipment pounding
what I knew objectively
and grinding, the growl
was better at home like
As I looked back over
of engines, the impatient
parks, the educational
what I had written the
squawk of horns, the
system, cold sodas
words that seemed to
occasional rasp of
whenever I want them
re-emerge (the words
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that were recursive) were kindness and
tomatoes, peaches, zucchini; playing
grace and gentleness. What I did not
with their children in the park, taking
think about finding in Lyon I found a
time to engage in a spontaneous game
hundred-fold. I found people who were
of soccer; on bikes, on skateboards,
exceptionally welcoming and sweet.
in paddle boats and kayaks, eager to
Shopkeepers and waiters, pleased
point out just why the traboules are
by our French and often giggly when
significant, why this particular wine
using their English. Complete strangers
will be pleasing with the canard; where
in parks and markets charmed by
to find the perfect perch from which
our questions, happy to engage in
to listen to a concert in the Roman
conversation. People who openly
ruins and for which we have no tickets;
delight in their city, who take pride in
to make sure that the food they are
their city, who want us to know above
serving is cooked well and to our liking,
all that they love their city. People
that here is a place where you can eat
who seem to caress their city in their
your picnic lunch, to be sure to see the
daily actions; picking just the right
inside of this church and to walk in that
“Lyon seems to suit its people and the people suit Lyon.”
garden, perhaps you will like this book,
eyes to Lyon. I don’t fully understand
this scarf, these mushrooms…all of it
the culture, and I never will. But I have
seemed to be a constant present and
an idea of what the people of Lyon and
merci was on my lips over and over
their city are like now. I found hidden
again. Even when it was not ancient
beauty in traboules, enjoyed lovely
or quaint or genteel or serene, it was
parks filled with laughing toddlers and
candid and forthcoming and honest.
older couples holding hands as they
Lyon seems to suit its people and the
chatted and everyone in between, and
people suit Lyon.
found a history of strength in the face of adversity.
ANGELA
Listening to the two special speakers
Unexpected Surprises
who had survived World War II was a pivotal moment for me. Something
Our activities through these too short
about actually being in the prison
few days have definitely opened my
where a scared 15-year-old boy was 93
imprisoned simply for
learn best by doing.
having a different faith
(should have done that
brought home the truths
more) and hear and
about World War II to me
RON
that I’d never felt in such
Learning about Lyon
a visceral way before. I
feel their connection to the city. For myself, I need to get rid of the
read a birthday card sent
Lyon is a city like any
preconceived image of
to a young American
other. And at the same
a city as a combination
soldier from his family
time, it is a completely
of lay-out, orderly
that never reached him
different city. The thing
combined stones and
because he’d died before
is, what do we want to
spaces in between.
his birthday, and began
see when we walk, travel,
Of course I know that
to cry. This young man
are in this city? Do we
these stones and spaces
had died 70 years ago,
have the possibility to
‘house’ people and give
and probably all of this
use eyes that really SEE
way to their (and our)
family that remembers
instead of taking all we
lives. But in many cases
him well is gone too.
experience for granted?
we tend to forget this
Yet that card and the
In this sense, seeing is an
sequence of what in fact
short sentence that he
experience of more than
is the natural order: first
had never read the card
just the eyes. And this
people, then the city.
touched a part of me
last week gave me the
We build city for people
as I thought of the lives
possibility to see with a
to live in, in most cases,
ended and altered in the
lot of different senses.
people build cities to live
war.
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to hear personal stories
in. And people connect Connecting with people
not just in practical ways,
Several of our readings
is first of all connecting
but primarily through
referenced Kolb’s work
with their movements,
emotional ways: other
on experiential learning
so using public transport
people, family, deceased
and the four stages one
over and underground is
people, memories
must go through before
a good start. Taking time
(accurate or constructed),
starting over anew. I
is another important
neighbors. Second, I
had read Kolb while in
thing, so walking, sitting
think we connect to cities
graduate school, but our
and observing is a
through places in which
readings in preparation
way of connecting to
we share these memories
for City as Text had me
what happens in your
with others, known or
reflecting back on my
surroundings. Talking
unknown to us. In our
own learning style. I too
to people is important
minds we connect places,
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I do so after having been here for only
was about that moment that his breath
a few days: Fourviere, Roman theaters,
launched a bubble into the air and he
traboules, Gestapo headquarters, Place
could follow it for those few seconds
Sathonay, Montluc, Confluence, Rhone
before it vanished. ‘It’s not the drawing
& Saone. I spun a web of memories
that counts, it’s the seeing’. (John Bailly)
already after such a short time.
It would be an insult to the beauty
These memories are connected with
of Lyon to say that I have discovered
people and events: discussion about
all of its secrets this week. What has
a church, Ann’s little tour which made
taken so much time, care and effort
dead stones come alive, the secret
to create cannot be explained after
and hidden connections in an almost
only 6 days. What I do know is that
underground city, a ‘guilty’ building
the experience of City as Text forces
and the story of Guy Sanglerat and
me to look at a city in a different way,
the film of Klaus Barbie, village square
a new way. The distance between
in a large city, impressive eye witness
me and my surroundings diminishes
story of Claude Bloch, a double visit
because I attempt – consciously
from two angles – north and south,
but also intuitively - to locate and
embankments and morning runs with
observe the particular layers of the city
Hannah. This is what makes this city
environment in order to establish what
come alive: to share memories with
it is, what it means, and what makes it
others. This is what makes a city turn
a unique place to live.
from ‘just stones and lay-out’ into a city of people. And I think that is what I re-
Jane Jacobs urges that to advance
learned in this week.
understanding one must “seek for ‘unaverage’ clues involving very small
MONIQUE
quantities, which reveal the way larger and more ‘average’ quantities are
Having New Eyes operating.” If I understand this point
correctly, in order to understand a
In Parc de la Tête d’Or a little boy – no
city you have to look at what makes
older than 3 I imagine – was having the
it special, what gives it its particular
time of his life blowing soap bubbles.
character and what makes it what it is
He watched them burst, shrieked of
in comparison (if necessary) to other
excitement and started the process
cities. In other words: what makes
over again and again. The soap bubbles
Lyon, Lyon.
burst before they had the chance to get very far but that didn’t deter him. It
At one level, the ‘unaverage’ of Lyon
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is to be found in its
a unique experience.
created based on how
positioning between
As a visitor entering
people can use them
the Rhône and the
the traboules you do
and have been designed
Saône. This results in
get the impression that
in such a way that it
a presqu’île which is in
it is a privilege to be
always can be used in
itself geographically
allowed to enter these
different ways. I have
‘unaverage’. It forces one
private courtyards
seen a number of what
to think about how this
and are grateful for
I consider labours of
limited strip of land can
the experience. At yet
love, the quai, the parks,
best be organised for and
another level, Lyon
the rocking chairs in the
used by its inhabitants.
celebrates its gastronomy
open space. People are
The possibilities of
and emphasizes that
comfortable in this city
expansion are not
in this respect it is the
because the context
endless because the
capital of France.
is not rigid but quite
borders are so resolute,
fluid, like the rivers that
so decisive. But the
Based on the incredibly
surround it. It is no
water, that on the one
long walks, the
wonder that time and
hand limits expansion,
eavesdropping, the
time again people have
provides for those living
conversations with
described Lyon as a good
within those borders
the Lyonnais, the
place to live. They have
all the positive things
silent moments of
made it that way.
whether it be views or
observation I think I
recreation associated
have gathered enough
with the presence of
evidence to suggest what
HANNAH
water.
characterizes Lyon.
What I missed for many
But Lyon has an
Lyon really is a good
‘unaverage’ clue which
place to live because
My image of the city
they have created
the city respects its
of Lyon is obstruction.
themselves, namely the
inhabitants. It’s a good
When we are going on a
traboules. I think the
place to live because
holiday to the South of
Lyonnais is very aware of
people seem to have
France we take the route
this because they allow
had an influence on how
de Soleil. During the
visitors to enter what
the city looks like, how
holiday season this is the
is in essence a private
it has been organized.
busiest route in France. A
place and by doing so,
Everywhere you look
lot of people from North
provide their ‘guests’ with
spaces have been
European countries take
years…
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this route. The most
discover Lyon you have
with my companions,
busiest or obstructive
to open the front door.
I even opened a door
part of the route is Lyon.
Open the front door is a
for myself, to be more
So if you are driving your
new expression for me.
patient before giving an
car, you will hope that
It comes from the funny
image to a place.
there isn’t a traffic jam,
expression of “Shut the
and that you can ride
front door!” My neighbor
Lyon is a city that I
as quickly as possible
and lovely companion
will miss. Lyon has
through Lyon. It feels like
for the last days, Kristen,
neighbourhoods where
holding your breath, and
uses this expression
I got lost, but in a nice
when you pass Lyon you
when she is surprised
way; neighbourhoods
can breathe again.
about something. A lot
where I had a stair
of doors are closed when
master workout and
So my first impression
I arrived at Lyon. And
where I was rewarded
of Hotel Célestins was
every time I opened a
each time I achieved
that I felt disappointed
door I was surprised by
a new summit with a
But after talking to the
the secret it revealed. I
spectacular view; another
owner, observing Place
mean this literally and
workout, an emotional
des Célestins and walking
figuratively.
one, where I still see the
around this particular
Resistance; Vieux Lyon
area I started to like
But when I opened
where I had multiple
and eventually love this
the doors of some
workouts playing hide
place. The owner, his
houses of Lyon, I found
and seek using the
son and his staff are so
beautiful traboules.
Traboules,and stretching
nice and helpful. It is
When I opened the door
my waistline with all the
the first hotel for me in
I observed people using
great Lyonnaise Cuisine
France where they speak
the squares in Lyon,
before deciding on my
English. Laurent, the
people playing with their
jogging route. Mid Lyon
owner of the Hotel, gives
children in the streets,
is where I shopped and
you the feeling that you
people talking to each
learned different uses
are at home. I think he
other and taking their
of public space. I can go
is a great ambassador
time to enjoy lunchtime,
on on like this. I advise
of Lyon, because he
free time and lovely
that you too, instead of
can tell you everything
evenings. And even
hurrying through, go to
about Lyon and he also
when I opened doors by
Lyon and open the door!
encourages you to go to
talking to people in Lyon
see more of Lyon. So, to
and talking about Lyon
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“People are comfortable in this city because the context is not rigid but quite fluid, like the rivers that surround it.� 100
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