TH E N E WS PA PER O F TH E PI PE A N D G L A S S – 2019/2020
Counting sheep One, two, three, four… that’s how many luxurious new rooms the Pipe and Glass has opened recently at The Old Lambing Yard, our stylish new accommodation just a few minutes’ walk from the pub.
This wheel’s on fire
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No wonder he’s smiling – we kept our Michelin star for the eleventh consecutive year and landed one or two other plum awards this year, too.
Home and away
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Join James and Kate (and the occasional famous friend!) on their travels around the UK and sometimes further afield...
Honey, honey
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It's good for you, it's delicious, and best of all, much of the honey supplied to the Pipe and Glass is made right on the doorstep.
Photography by Tim Green
2 | T H E P A N T R Y
Jacob
Counting sheep Meet Jacob, Lincoln, Swaledale and Ryedale – four stylish new additions to the luxury accommodation at the Pipe and Glass.
Come inside, and you’ll find the warm welcome you’d expect from the Pipe and Glass. Crisp linens, furs (faux, of course!), velvets and woollens in the bedrooms contrast with slate, stone and mirrors in the bathrooms to create a sense of tactile elegance.
With our usual emphasis on absolute comfort with touches of real luxury, the four rooms have been converted from buildings at The Old Lambing Yard, just a five-minute walk through the picture-perfect village of South Dalton from the Pipe and Glass itself.
Each room has its own special defining feature – a slipper bath in Jacob’s bathroom, an oak four-poster bed in Lincoln’s bedroom, an antique mirrored feature wall in Swaledale’s bathroom and a stone feature wall in Ryeland’s.
With a nod to the building’s original function, their names have been taken from four of this country’s more unusual breeds of sheep – although we don’t think you’ll need to count any to get a great night’s sleep in these comfy beds!
And in each room, you’ll find all those special little touches that define the Pipe and Glass: homemade treats alongside the tea- and coffee-making facilities, Roberts DAB radios, extra blankets for chillier nights on your patio, relaxing Temple Spa toiletries and torches.
Visitors are welcomed by the delightful scene of a mother ewe with two lambs, created especially for The Old Lambing Yard by leading Yorkshire sculptor Emma Stothard. Emma's woven sculptures – these are in powder-coated bronze wire – also grace the grounds of both Raymond Blanc’s Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and Highrove House, the family residence of of Their Royal Highnesses The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall, and are regularly seen at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, for the past two years in the award-winning Welcome to Yorkshire garden. The four rooms guarded by this ovine little family are all en-suite and each has its own landscaped patio area with table and chairs – each room is completely private, with Swaledale and Ryeland sharing a main entrance and lobby, so also perfect for a family or two couples. www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Swaledale
Yes, you read that right – torches. Don’t forget them when you head to the Pipe and Glass for dinner – it gets very dark in the countryside, you’ll need them on the way back to your room! James says: “We’re thrilled with how The Old Lambing Yard has turned out – just a year ago, it was a derelict building and look at it now! Wherever we could, we’ve used local suppliers, contractors and tradesmen – we’d like to thank them all for their hard work.
Swaledale
“With our five Garden Rooms, we can now offer a wide range of varied and luxurious accommodation for our overnight guests.” For more information on The Old Lambing Yard, and the Garden Rooms, and a detailed description of each of the nine rooms, visit: www.pipeandglass.co.uk/rooms Swaledale
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Jacob
Ryeland
Jacob
Lincoln
Ryeland
Lincoln
Swaledale
Lincoln
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Photography by Tim Green
4 | T H E P A N T R Y
And the award for best inn goes to… Late 2019 turned out to be a particularly rewarding time for us all here at the Pipe and Glass. Not only did we keep our Michelin star, and get a healthy crop of mentions in the national press (turn to page 23 to find our more about those), but we were also delighted to find out that we’d been named as the Good Hotel Guide’s Inn of the Year for 2020. James says: “It was a wonderful time, and yet another tribute to the brilliant team at the Pipe and Glass – everyone from the cleaners to the senior chefs put their heart and soul into the place.
“ Everyone from the cleaners to the senior chefs put their heart and soul into the Pipe and Glass. ”
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“But just our luck that both awards ceremonies were on the same night! But we’re not complaining – it was a great problem to have!” The prestigious and much-coveted Michelin stars are awarded each year by the Michelin Red Guide, the longest-standing European hotel and reference guide – around 8,000 restaurants across the globe currently hold stars. The Pipe and Glass has held its star now for eleven years, having first been awarded it in 2010, just four years after opening.
M ICH ELI N STAR 2010— 2020
And if this year's Michelin star was the icing on the cake, how's this for a very large cherry on top? Now in its 42nd year, The Good Hotel Guide is the UK’s leading impartial guide to the country’s best luxury hotels, from boutique city hotels to friendly rural B&Bs.
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Each year, it gives a César award (they’re named after celebrated hotelier César Ritz, whose surname says it all!) to the ten best hotels, inns and B&Bs of the year – and this year’s César for Inn of the Year went to the Pipe and Glass.
GOOD HOTEL GU I DE I N N OF TH E YE AR 2020
The Sunday Times called the César awards ‘the Oscars of the hotel industry’. They are particularly valued by travel writers, hoteliers and guests because of the Guide’s reputation for independence.
And of course the Pipe and Glass is no stranger to top awards, going back to that first Yorkshire Life award for Dining Pub of the Year in 2006, just months after we opened – you can check out our online trophy cabinet here: www.pipeandglass.co.uk/awards
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/ 2019 2020 | 5
Derby Day
celebrate its 500th anniversary in a world that would be completely unrecognisable to them? An arduous four-mile roadside course starting on the outskirts of South Dalton, it ends at Londesborough Wold near Kiplingcotes.
In the year that the Kiplingcotes Derby, believed to be England’s, if not the world’s, oldest horse race, celebrates its 500th anniversary, we take a look at its history… In 1519, Henry VIII had been on the throne for just a decade of his 38-year reign, and was still married to wife number one of six, Catherine of Aragon.
Still following the original rules written up in 1519, any horse can enter (previous entrants have ranged from ponies to retired racehorses competing under false names), but riders must weigh in at 10 stones, excluding saddle (or carry weights to make it up). Age, though, is no barrier – previous jockies have been in their 70s.
Leonardo da Vinci died that year; Portugese explorer Ferdinand Magellan crossed the Atlantic and navigated the straits at the southernmost point of Chile that were subsequently named after him.
No one knows until the horses arrive on the day who’ll be entering, making it hard to take a punt – the course bookie, a recent innovation, has to make some tough last minute decisions!
And in East Yorkshire, a couple of squires had an argument over whose horse was the better, and decided to settle it with a race.
In a twist delightful to anyone who loves the eccentricity of the British, the second-placed rider is likely to win more than the first – the winner gets a fixed prize of £50, the runner-up takes the entrance fees, which often amount to more. The winner, however, also gets to keep a rather magnificent trophy for a year.
The Kiplingcotes Derby was born – and what would those 16th-century squires think if someone had told them that the race they cooked up would one day
The rules of the Kiplingcotes Derby (written in 1519) 1 st Every man that is a Founder he is to put Twenty Shillings in Gold for his stake when he hath a horse, gelding or mare that runs for the prize, and every other person Four Pounds in Gold, and if any person that is a founder put in a horse that is not his own, he must put in Four Pounds in Gold for his stake or be adjudged not to run for the prize. 2 nd Every horse, gelding or mare that runneth for the prize shall be led out between twelve and one of the clock, and shall run the course before two of the clock in the afternoon. 3 rd Every horse, etc, that runneth for the Prize shall start bridled and saddled and shall run with rider weighing 10 st., fourteen pounds to the stone, according to ancient custom. 4 th Every horse, etc., that runneth for the Prize shall have their Judge or Trier, and put their stakes into the clerk's hand at or before eleven of the clock, who will be at the weighing post ready to receive it, and set down the name of the owner of every horse, etc., his horse's name and colour, and his rider's name and Judge's name, and to take a record from the Judge every horse's place at the end of the course.
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5 th W hosoever doth stop or stay any of the running horses that rideth for this Prize, if he be either the owner of a horse that runs or his servant will be adjudged to hinder the horse, his horse shall win no prize. 6 th Every rider that layeth hold of any of the other riders or striketh any of them shall win no prize. 7th Every rider that wanteth any more than one pound of his weight after he has run shall win no prize. 8 th T hat the horse that runneth first by the Weighing Post set up at the end of the course observing the articles shall win the rize, and the second horse etc., shall have the stakes, only so muck yearly detained and taken out of the stakes as shall finish, support, repair and maintain the Rubbing Houses at the end of the course, and what be deemed necessary to be done about the said course in maintaining the weights, posts and levelling ground, etc., and any two or more of the Founders are authorised to direct and appoint yearly how much of the stakes shall be detained or taken out for the uses aforesaid. 9th George Plaxton, of Londesburgh, is declared to be clerk and to keep the weights, and is to receive fifteen shillings from him that winneth the Prize, that is ten shillings for keeping the weights and five shillings which he is to employ for mending the course every year, and likewise to receive
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Tradition has it that if a year goes by without the race being run, it ends – so on the odd occasion when something goes wrong (at the end of the legendary winter of 1947, it was halted by snow drifts; in 2001, by the foot-and-mouth crisis; last year, by a waterlogged course), a horse and rider walk the course to keep it alive. The race always takes place on the third Thursday in March – in 2019 that was 21 March, when it was won by Tracey Corrigan on her horse Frog, who beat a record field of 36 competitors to lift the trophy for the fourth time.
twelve pence for every Trier's name that he enters in his book, and he is to appoint a man to start the horses, to whom the Master of the winning horse is to pay two shillings and sixpence, and he is to take care that there be not any horse, etc., do start within a quarter of a mile of the running horses, and the said Trustees or the major part of them is hereby declared from time to time to nominate and appoint who shall be their clerk at their will and pleasure. 10th All the Posts on the course to be left on the right hand, otherwise he shall win no Prize. 11th Every man that is a Founder and his heir's male are herby declared to be Founders to this course for ever, and that the eldest son of every Founder shall have the privilege of putting in a horse as a Founder during his father's life, and that the names of every Founder be fairly written on parchment to remain constantly with the clerk, and likewise on the same parchment to be set down in whose custody the writing or security shall remain which is taken for any part of the sums of money so contributed.
12th The master of those horses that run wherein there shall happen any difference, shall each of them name one Founder to determine this difference, and if they cannot agree, those two Founders are to name an Umpire. 13 th Any of the riders being required by any of the Triers or Judges shall be weighed after the course, and in case of refusal or want of weight according to the Articles shall be adjudged the last horse. 14 th That is any horse, etc., be brought to run under the name of a Founder and that there be any suspicion by any person that such a Founder is not really the owner of such horse etc. and that the said suspicion be declared to the clerk of the course, he is directed to acquaint the Judge or Trier of such horse etc., and such Founder, if he be on the course. is forthwith upon notice to repair to the said clerk, and engage to the Trier upon his honour that such horse etc., is really his own without any manner of equivocation, fraudulence, or deceit; or if such Founder be not upon the course himself, then some Gentlemen on his behalf is to clear the doubt in the same manner as aforesaid, and if there be no such clearing of the aforesaid doubt, then such Founder is either to put in Four Pounds towards the increase of the stakes or else to be adjudged not to be in a capacity to win the Plate, but shall be adjudged the last horse.
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80 Years Young One of the world’s most famous living playwrights lives just up the road, and turning 80 hasn’t dimmed his enthusiasm for life, work – or the Pipe and Glass! Alan Ayckbourn likes to compare himself to one of those huge ocean liners that take a long time to stop. The globally-renowned playwright turned 80 earlier this year, and is a little slower than he used to be, but still has an enviably prodigious output – the venue that is the first to stage most of his work, Scarborough’s Stephen Joseph Theatre, will proudly present the world premiere of his 83rd full-length play Birthdays Past, Birthdays Present later this year, as well as a revival of his much-loved classic Season’s Greetings. As always, he’s directing both of those shows – and as if that wasn’t enough to keep a new octogenarian busy, he’s also pulling together and directing a portmanteau show of rehearsed readings from his children’s and family plays, 80 Years Young, as a fundraiser for the SJT, and is thrilled that his script The Divide, produced as a ‘narrative for voices’ during the Edinburgh International Festival in late 2017 and at London’s Old Vic in early 2018, will be published in novel format in the autumn. It’s the habit of a lifetime. Since he first came to Yorkshire in 1957, aged just 18, to be an acting stage manager at Stephen Joseph’s revolutionary new theatre-in-the-round in Scarborough Library, Alan has worked tirelessly. In addition to those 83 full-length
plays, he has written numerous shorter pieces and directed all the premieres of his own work, and productions of plays by many other writers, and not necessarily those you might expect: Arthur Miller described his A View from the Bridge at the National Theatre in 1987 as the ‘definitive version’. He also found time to run a theatre, through three incarnations. In 1976 he took the 21-year-old Library Theatre to a new home in Scarborough’s former boys’ high school at Westwood (and gave it a new name, the Stephen Joseph Theatre in the Round, following Joseph’s death in 1967). And 20 years later again, he led the team that oversaw a second move to the theatre’s current home in the
“ The Pipe and Glass is heaven, an absolute gastronomic joy ”
town’s former Odeon cinema, where it is known simply as the Stephen Joseph Theatre. It was during that eventful move in 1996 that he met James, smartly recruited to the theatre’s kitchens as a new graduate from Scarborough Technical College, and who remains to this day one of his favourite chefs. “When we opened the new building we decided we wanted a restaurant in there. Restaurants and theatres: sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t! We really fell on our feet because our first chef turned out to be James, and we thought ‘this is it’ – we were full every night, and it was our dream come true. “And then he left to pursue other jobs – and we miss you James, desperately!
“The Pipe and Glass is heaven – it’s just a bit far away for me now, I wish he’d move it a bit nearer! It’s my sort of restaurant: excellent game, wonderful meat – and an absolutely fantastic prawn cocktail. Beautiful cooking and a lovely ambience – it’s like being in a really swish restaurant but without any chi-chi nonsense. It’s so unpretentious, just an absolute gastronomic joy.”
Alan at 80 Alan Ayckbourn shows no signs of slowing down. For the summer of 2019, he directed a revival of his classic Season’s Greetings plus his new play Birthdays Past, Birthdays Present – a production which gained the rare accolade of being featured in the ‘What the critics would pay to see’ section of The Times. And in September, he joined Hornsea’s PS Publishing to launch the novel version of his ‘narrative for voices’, The Divide, a fable that unflinchingly examines a dystopian society of brutal repression, forbidden love and seething insurrection. The author said: “This is a new experience for me. Eighty-three plays, God knows how many nerve-racking theatre press nights and now this. The very first book launch of my very first novel. “Lord, the things you take on at 80!” For more information: www.pspublishing.co.uk alanayckbourn.net
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8 | T H E P A N T R Y
WHISK Y GALORE! Regulars at the Pipe and Glass will already be familiar with the excellent range of Wold Top beers in the bar. But now, they'll be able to try something really special from the same stable – Yorkshire’s first-ever single malt whisky. The rich and complex whisky, named Filey Bay and presented in a beautiful bottle bearing the bay's waves and the company's trademark gannet, was a natural progression from beer for Wold Top founder Tom Mellor and his partner at the Spirit of Yorkshire distillery, David Thompson. “It started with a friendship, really,” says David. “Tom was someone I’d played rugby with for years, and our families grew up together. And one day, he came to me and said, do you fancy making a whisky? As you do!”
“ We had everything we needed to make a great whisky right here. ”
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Tom explained to David that the ingredients for making a great single malt – essentially barley and spring water – were right there on the doorstep. And because he already ran a brewery, the malted barley mash was easily available, too. “We had everything we needed to make a great whisky right there,” says David, who, helpfully, has a background in marketing and agriculture. “What we didn’t have was the experience, so we needed someone who could help us on that journey and who had credibility in the industry. We found a lovely Scottish guy called Dr Jim Swan – get his name on your CV and it’s really rubber stamps the fact that you’re doing things right.” The legendary Dr Swan, who had consulted on distilleries across the world, was with the project right from the start, advising and helping until last year, when, sadly, he died. “Jim’s input was invaluable – he helped with the build of the stills, and also the flavour profile,” says David. “We started by looking at stills: the best are hand-made by Forsyths of Rothes in Scotland, but at the time, they had a two-year waiting list. We decided to look elsewhere, only to realise after a bit of a road trip around Europe that actually, nobody could make a whisky still as well as the Scots! “We negotiated with Forsyths, and managed to get them a bit quicker - in June 2016 we did our first
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spirit run. We’ve now got just short of 1,600 casks filled and maturing.” Legally, whisky has to be matured in the cask for three years before it’s considered worthy of the name – but David and Tom made the decision to start selling the spirit while it was still just a teenager. “What we’ve done is quite unusual in the whisky industry in that we’ve taken it to market earlier than traditionally would have been acceptable in terms of flavour and quality – but we’ve done things with our stills to clean the spirit even more so that it matures quicker and gets into the bottle quicker. “It wasn’t the plan – we were originally going to do a white, gin-type spirit, but we quickly realised that the market really didn’t need another gin! And we’d have had to buy in spirit to make gin, which wasn’t our ethos – it’s all about field to bottle for us. “When we do tours of the distillery, we give people a taste of the maturing product, and they kept asking why they couldn’t buy it. So it was led by demand – we’ve sold 8,000 bottles of ‘maturing malt’ – it’s not whisky, we can’t legally sell it as such as it’s younger than three years, but it’s great quality. “And now we’ve got to the date where we can call it whisky, and as it matures it gets more delicate and flavoursome. It’s improving on what’s already a very good starting place.”
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The local link “There’s nobody else doing this in Yorkshire – you’d probably have to travel 200 miles before you come across another distillery, in the Lakes, or Norfolk,” says David. “And we have some of the best malt and barley in the world growing here in Yorkshire, which is why we have two malting factories nearby at Bridlington and Knapton. “It’s been lovely watching how James has created this fantastic place at the Pipe & Glass, and it means a lot to us that he’s a Filey lad, because we’re all from round here too. We wanted to put Filey and Hunmanby on the whisky map: we have a great affinity with this area. Hence the gannet from Bempton Cliffs on our logo – it’s a fantastic bird which represents a lot about what we’re doing here.”
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The casks
The product
“The skill of maturation is choosing the right casks to bring out the right flavours and colours – every cask has already had a previous occupant,” explains David. “The blue ones are ex-Bourbon casks from Kentucky – part of the Jack Daniels business. The Bourbon had been in there for seven or eight years imparting all that lovely flavour and colour into the wood, and our spirit draws all that back out again.
The brand new whisky from the Spirit of Yorkshire distillery, Filey Bay, is a single malt. ‘Single’ denotes that it’s all from just the one distillery; ‘malt’ is 100% malt barley (other grains can be used in whisky, such as rye, corn or wheat). The distillery can ‘marry’ spirits from amongst its own casks to create different flavours – but if it added any from other distilleries, the whisky would become ‘blended’.
“We also have sherry casks – with sherry, there are seven or eight different variants, so those casks marked OLO have held Oloroso, a dark but dry sherry; PX is Pedro Ximenez, which is extremely sweet like a pudding wine. We have some casks which have held red wine; we even have an Oloroso cask that’s had Seville orange peel in it. They’re all imparting these lovely flavours – our skill is to marry these casks to give us a layering of flavour.”
Each cask of Filey Bay holds just short of 200 litres of cask-strength (63.5%) spirit, which is then taken down to a bottling strength of 46%, using spring water from the company’s own well – the same water that’s used to make Wold Top beer – yielding around 300 70cl bottles per cask.
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THE BRIDGE TO O U R H E A RTS
C
M
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CM
MY
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CMY
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The new piece by David Renshaw, exclusive to Artmarket
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/ 2019 2020 | 11
A little Northern Romance at the Pipe and Glass A rare personal appearance by the hugely popular artist David Renshaw was a recent highlight at the Pipe and Glass. Fans travelled from all over the country to spend the evening with the creator of Ted and Doris, the loved-up couple whose travels in their trusty camper van form the basis of the ‘Northern Romance’ series of paintings. The event, which sold out in record time, was organised by Cottingham’s Artmarket Gallery, which represents David Renshaw. Three brand new original artworks featuring Ted and Doris and inspired by the beautiful Pipe and Glass and its surroundings were revealed on the night by David Renshaw himself and by Artmarket director Robert Power. The three pieces – Our Perfect Evening, Light of My Life and Autumn Glow – all sold on the night, as did many of the boutique hand-embellished limited edition prints of each new painting, each one numbered and signed by David. The Northern Romance series is, David explains, inspired by his beloved grandmother. “She was a prominent and influential figure in my childhood,” he says. “She adored my grandfather, who had died when they were quite young. She never remarried, and she always used to tell me stories about him. “When I was looking for a new direction in my painting, my grandmother’s stories sparked the idea of Ted and Doris – I wanted something that people could connect to on an emotional level.
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“So now there’s always the couple, always a heart, and love is always the theme. But geographically, they can go anywhere. And they’ve evolved over the years. At first they were always quite Lowry-esque cityscapes – my parents are from Manchester and Leeds. But I was born and brought up in Southport, and I love the countryside, so now they’re often in more natural environments, reflecting my own experiences more.” The three new pictures had a more specific inspiration, too: before starting work, David visited the Pipe and Glass to have lunch, meet James and Kate and enjoy the surrounding countryside and landmarks, including the Humber Bridge and the soaring church spire of St Mary’s at South Dalton. Guests enjoyed a delicious Pipe and Glass dinner starting with a selection of canapés, followed by a little cup of game and wild mushroom broth, with a game and juniper sausage roll; beetroot and Yorkshire gin-cured salmon with crème fraîche, crab croquette, pickled cucumber and dill, and Two Chefs ale-braised ox cheek with marrowbone potato, crispy onion, anise carrot. Pudding was white chocolate and semi-dried cranberry bread and butter pudding with spiced clementine suzette and cardamom custard, all rounded off by coffee and sweet treats. This was the third Artmarket Gallery artist event at the Pipe and Glass – previous guest artists were Bob Barker and Peter Smith. The originals of their paintings, Table for Two and The Secret Pantry, can be seen on display at the pub. www.artmarket.co.uk
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FOOD OF THE GODS It’s England’s largest county, encompassing a coast that stretches from Saltburn to Spurn Point, fertile arable land, and miles of important heather-clad moorland. Hardly surprising, then, that some of James’ favourite ingredients can be found right on his doorstep in Yorkshire. Here he enthuses about some of the amazing produce from God’s own county, and suggests some delicious ideas for using it.
Beer
Asparagus
Rapeseed oil
“It’s important to Kate and I that the Pipe and Glass remains a welcoming Yorkshire pub, where customers can simply drop into the bar for a pint after work, or push the boat out with an indulgent Michelin-starred meal in the restaurant.
“Asparagus is such a luxury – or it should be. In the spring, we tend to find our supermarkets flooded with asparagus from Peru, but really – isn’t it worth just hanging on a few weeks and getting the homegrown stuff? Less air miles, and it just has to be the freshest and most delicious when you get it from Spilman Farming at Sessay, near Thirsk, or Sand Hutton Asparagus, near York – both fewer than 50 miles away from the Pipe and Glass!
“Rapeseed oil has been one of the big culinary stories of the last decade, with more and more chefs appreciating its delicate taste and high smoke point. We’re lucky to have one of the country’s leading producers, Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil, just up the road at Thixendale.
“We’re fortunate to have so many breweries in Yorkshire and we stock various local beers, including from the nearby Wold Top and Scarborough Breweries. “And we’re currently working to develop a new Pipe and Glass ale with our friends at Wold Top – it’s near my home town of Filey, so very personal to me.”
“Since we took over the Pipe and Glass in 2006, one of the most popular dishes on the menu has been asparagus with crispy duck egg, chorizo and lovage dressing – you can find it in my book, On The Menu. But for those who might be a little nervous about tackling the duck deep-fried eggs, the asparagus – blanched and shallow-fried in butter – is just as delicious on its own. Or for something a little more extravagant, serve it as we do in a delicious fish dish that regularly appears on our specials board during the asparagus season: fillet of wild halibut, English asparagus, Jersey Royals, morel mushrooms, seaweed cracker and lobster sauce.”
“ Some of James' favourite ingredients can be found right on his doorstep. ”
“I love to use Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil at the Pipe and Glass as it’s so versatile, and has such a great nutty flavour. It complements both meat and fish, and can be used for traditional purposes such as shallow frying, or for mayonnaise and dressing, but also for more unusual uses, including puddings. I use it in our raspberry mousse, pistachio and rapeseed sponge, aerated white chocolate and raspberry sorbet; the oil helps to create a very light and airy result.” “And the black pepper rapeseed oil which I created with Yorkshire Rapeseed works really well with strawberries; try it in the strawberry cheesecake recipe from On the Menu.”
Photography by Tim Green, Tony Bartholomew & Jason Lowe
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/ 2019 2020 | 13
Rhubarb “Whether you prefer the brilliant Schiaparelli pink of tender early forced rhubarb, or the creamier, duskier hue of the more robust later crop, rhubarb is probably about as Yorkshire as it gets. I once traipsed a whole boxful down to London on the train as a surprise for fellow Yorkshire chef James Martin, the first time I appeared on Saturday Kitchen. “The county boasts its own ‘rhubarb triangle’, an area of West Yorkshire where the forced rhubarb has been awarded Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status by the European Commission’s Protected Food Name scheme, aligning it with Champagne and Parma ham. “I’ve used rhubarb – much of it grown in our own gardens here – in both sweet and savoury recipes many times over the past 13 years at the Pipe and Glass – a perennial favourite, though, is my ginger-burnt cream with stewed rhubarb and East Yorkshire sugar cakes.”
Fish and shellfish “I grew up in a fishing town, and I’ve talked elsewhere in this issue of The Pantry about how important to me that heritage is. Most of the fish that we use in our kitchen is from this coast, and sea trout from Filey or Scarborough is one of my favourite seasonal treats in the summer – the delicate flesh is simply exquisite when presented raw in a tartare, such as my beetroot and East Yorkshire gin-cured sea trout with pickled cucumber, crème fraîche, apple oyster fritter and garden herbs. “But there’s more to the seas around Yorkshire than just sea trout – how about Scarborough woof, a firm and pearly-fleshed fish similar to cod that I like to serve poached in cider or with seaweed fritters and brown crab mayonnaise? Or some shimmering local mackerel, which is absolutely delicious simply filleted and grilled – and my smoked mackerel Scotch egg is an absolute winner. “We also have magnificent local shellfish – scallops, crab and lobster are abundant round here. If you’re not the most confident of cooks, take a look at my crab sticks recipe, which you can find on our website as part of my potted crab with blood orange and pickled fennel salad and brown crab sticks dish. Ridiculously delicious and so easy, I promise!”
Game “When you live in a rural area, it’s hard not to love game – and there are plenty of local shoots around here to supply most of what we need. Those delicious flavours of pheasant, grouse, venison, and occasionally the slightly more rarefied hare and woodcock: they’re all around us, and part of the tradition and heritage of the area. “The ‘Glorious 12th’ – that day in August when grouse first comes on the menu – is always exciting for me. It’s the date that heralds the beginning of autumn, when game is at its best. “I have a whole game section in On The Menu, with recipes for hare, pheasant, rabbit, partridge, wood pigeon, venison and duck – all lean, healthy, sustainable meats. We’re increasingly (and rightly) seeing meat as a treat, rather than as a daily staple. I think the world would be a better place if more of that meat was game. “And sometimes, it’s brilliant to mix game with the seafood I was talking about earlier – my rabbit rissoles with a cockle and caper dressing (in On The Menu) might sound like a flavour clash, but it prompted the country’s leading restaurant critic, Jay Rayner, to say: ‘It raised an eyebrow on the menu, but not on my plate.’ Love that!”
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BUY JAMES MACKENZIE’S LOOK AT G O O D F E L LO W S AT H O M E “Presentation is just as important as the food at the Pipe and Glass and we choose plates, cutlery and glassware that complements the dishes we serve. Customers often ask us where we buy our tableware and I’m pleased to say is it from Goodfellow and Goodfellow. They offer a range of unique, design-led, high quality tableware that works really well with our style at the Pipe and Glass. We were delighted when they recently launched their Goodfellows at Home website, which means people can now buy restaurant-quality tableware for their home. I have put together my own personal selection on their website, choosing plates that we use here at the Pipe and Glass.”
S H O P T H E LO O K AT
www.goodfellowsathome.com
OPEN UP TANNIC (GOBLET) F83501-55 19.5oz - 55cl
HAMMER DINNER PLATE F02271-28 28cm - White
OPEN UP EFFERVESCENT (FLUTE) F83501-20 7oz - 20cl
MODULO NATURE PLATE F06050-28 28cm Warm Grey
MODULO NATURE CEREAL BOWL F06044 17cm - Kaolin
Delivering quality fresh fish for over 100 years Based on Hartlepool’s Fish Quay Trusted suppliers to top restaurants across the North of England Family run business
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/ 2019 2020 | 15
Green light Eat like a horse It was recently named as one of the top racecourses in England and Wales. So it makes (horse) sense that Beverley Racecourse should be harnessed in a new partnership with one of the country’s top chefs, our very own James. National tourism agency VisitEngland awarded the accolade after the Racecourse Association’s Quality Assured Racecourse Scheme assessed Beverley’s race day experience and judged it to be in the UK’s top 11 racecourses for 2018, alongside such hallowed venues such as Aintree, Ascot, Cheltenham, Chester, York and Ripon. And now the experience is even better - race-goers are able to dine from a menu specially designed by James, and implemented by CGC Event Caterers.
“We've put dishes on the à la carte menu: two starters, two mains and two puddings, which alternate,” explains James. “And in September, we had a Pipe and Glass takeover day at the final meeting of the season.” Sally Iggulden, Chief Executive of Beverley Racecourse, said: “We’re really excited to be working with James and enabling our guests in The Attraction restaurant to enjoy the fantastic food for which The Pipe and Glass is so renowned. “So many of our regular racegoers love to make a great meal in The Attraction restaurant the centrepiece of their day out at the races and The Pipe and Glass is a much-loved venue for many of our discerning diners. It’s bringing two of their favourite experiences together in one place.” For more information on Beverley Racecourse: www.beverley-racecourse.co.uk
You can’t run a restaurant these days without being aware of sustainability and the Green Agenda. Add to that being the parents of a young family, and it’s inevitable that James and Kate are keen to help secure a happy, healthy future for all of us in any way they can. With its gently rolling landscape, East Yorkshire lends itself beautifully to cycling. The Tour de Yorkshire has flown past the Pipe and Glass just a peleton’s length away on more than one occasion, so cyclists are very welcome at the Pipe and Glass, with extensive bike racks at the side of the building. We’ve also recently installed two charging points for electric cars – one of which is a Tesla supercharger.
The price of fish James recently threw his weight behind a local campaign to protect the ‘Filey Few’ – the seven small fishing boats that still make a living from the seas off the town. For five months of the year, these local fishermen used traditional techniques to catch valuable sea trout. Inevitably they occasionally catch a salmon, stocks of which are in decline, but these are released back into the sea. New rules set to be introduced by the Environment Agency last year to protect Atlantic salmon stocks caught these relative small fry in their nets alongside the bigger boys, threatening to end a tradition dating back centuries. Headed by local fisherman Rex Harrison, a campaign was launched to raise awareness of their plight, and James joined forces with other chefs, including Ed Baines from Soho’s Randall & Aubin, to up the profile at an awareness day. Rex Harrison said: “We're desperate for the Government to show commitment to sustainable fishing, and help keep us on the water for the next generation. We leave no impact on the environment, only take what we need to make a living – but our fishery might be quietly wiped off the map whilst the big business of fishing is on the news every day. We want to work with the EA to make sure salmon stocks are protected, and our fishing community is protected, too.” James added: “I remember when I was growing up watching the local fisherman heading out to check their nets for sea trout in the summer – it’s a real seasonal delicacy, a marker of the British summer on the coast. I’d hate to see the industry die out, and with it any opportunity to enjoy local sea trout.” The campaign saw some success – the fishermen are now allowed to fish for sea trout for four months of the year, from April to July, with a full decision postponed until 2020.
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16 | T H E P A N T R Y
HOME AND AWAY The Clocktower New York Edition
From Whitby and Leeds to New York and the Maldives – in recent months, James and his team have been out and about spreading the word about great Yorkshire produce and great Yorkshire cooking.
James’ showstopping Yorkshire puddings
A flying 60-hour visit to New York with Welcome to Yorkshire for the heats of the Leeds International Piano Festival saw James act as an ambassador for the county, heading up the team at Jason Atherton’s Michelin-starred The Clocktower, New York Edition. “It’s actually really difficult to take produce into the States,” explains James. “So instead we did a Yorkshire-inspired menu for a selection of American journalists, bloggers and food influencers, alongside representatives from the British tourism industry and the British Consulate.” The diners enjoyed a meal which represented different parts of the county and included potted crab, Yorkshire puddings (of course!), beer-braised beef, beef dripping potatoes, braised East Yorkshire peas, and a rhubarb and Yorkshire parkin trifle, rounded off by Yorkshire tea and petits fours.
James with the team from The Clocktower
The Clocktower, New York Edition
Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort
Yorkshire gin-and- beetroot-cured salmon
Further flung still, James and Kate, along with lucky children Toby and Molly, were guests of James’ old pal, Doncaster-born Chris Long, in the Maldives earlier this year. The pair trained together at Scarborough Technical College, and Chris is now executive chef at the five-star Outrigger Konotta, located on Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll. James was guest chef at the resort for a couple of nights, showcasing the food he loves cooking at the Pipe and Glass, including Yorkshire gin-andbeetroot-cured salmon, duck three ways, rhubarb baked Alaska and yet more Yorkshire puddings – this time in mini canapé form.
James showcasing his favourite Pipe and Glass dishes in the Maldives
“ I believe it’s the first time Yorkshire puddings have ever been cooked on the island! ”
“Most of the chefs at Konotta are Indian or Sri Lankan,” says James. “I believe it’s the first time Yorkshire puddings have ever been cooked on the island!”
Five-star Outrigger Konotta, located on Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll
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James, Kate, Toby and Molly with the team at Outrigger Konotta
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/ 2019 2020 | 17
The Star Inn the Harbour
A little closer to home, James joined old friend and fellow chef Andrew Pern at the latter’s Star Inn the Harbour in Whitby back in March, as one of a series of guest chefs, cooking for a packed house of over 100 guests.
James and Tom Kerridge at Pub In The Park
Pub In The Park
In May, Tom Kerridge’s innovative Pub in the Park festival came to Yorkshire for the first time, setting up camp in Leeds’s Roundhay Park. With a remit to provide very portable food for festival-goers, James came up with three delicious dishes: venison hot dogs with rhubarb and onion relish and juniper mayonnaise; Fettle and nettle croquettes with kohlrabi and mint slaw; and smoked beef meatballs with a tomato and oregano sauce, Yorkshire blue cheese and black olive purée.
“ We sold over 4,000 meals over the weekend, and the hot dogs were one of the most popular dishes at the festival,” says James. “I also did some demos with old friend, journalist and broadcaster Nigel Barden, who wrote the foreword to my book On the Menu. It was great to see the Pub in the Park come to Yorkshire! ”
And if all this is making your mouth water, you might enjoy another of James' jaunts - he's at Harrogate's Rudding Park Hotel on 11 November 2019. A fundraiser for the long-running charity Hospitality Action, which was established in 1837 and offers vital assistance to all who work, or have worked, within hospitality in the UK, the dinner was partly instigated by James, who’s assembled a starry team of fellow chefs, including Tommy Banks (Black Swan at Oldstead; Roots, York); Michael Wignall (The Angel at Hetton), and Shaun Rankin from Grantley Hall, near Fountains Abbey.
Pub In The Park
For more information: www.hospitalityaction.org.uk
Tommy Banks The Black Swan Oldstead & Roots York
James Mackenzie The Pipe and Glass
Shaun Rankin Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall
Michael Wignall The Angel at Hetton
Matthew Wilkinson Rudding Park
Photography by Tim Green and Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort
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18 | T H E P A N T R Y
HONEY, HONEY…
James & Paul inspecting the beehives at the Pipe and Glass
Honey is one of the most ancient and revered of foods – not for nothing did the Old Testament refer to the Promised Land as ‘flowing with milk and honey’, a phrase which is used to this day to signify fertility and ease. And remarkably, it’s still produced today pretty much as it would be all those thousands of years ago, barring the odd bit of Kingspan – but more of that later! In the last couple of years, the Pipe and Glass has teamed up with beekeeper Paul Denston, who has been providing the kitchen with much of the honey it uses.
of a teaspoon in its short lifetime, flying anything up to five miles to forage for food. After overwintering in Paul’s garden – where the wooden hives gain an extra layer of protection and insulation from a wrapping of Kingspan, a commodity which, as a builder, he has plenty of! – they’ll return to their various locations including the Pipe and Glass garden. And Paul hopes to locate one near the new lavender farm at Kiplingcotes in 2020 – lavender honey is particularly finely flavoured.
A builder by trade, Paul has 12 hives which, at time of writing, were preparing to go into hibernation in the garden of his home in East Yorkshire.
Save the bees Like so much of our wildlife, bees are under threat. Friends of the Earth estimates that 35 different species of bees in this country are currently under threat of extinction.
But one of them spent the hot summer of 2019 in the garden at the Pipe and Glass next to a lime tree – enviable models of efficiency, the bees will tend to head unerringly to the nearest source of nectar, so locating them next to a readily available source will allow the keeper to control the predominant flavour. The resulting lime honey has gone into the kitchen, and is also for sale in the Pipe and Glass’s shop – Paul is planning to go a ‘bit arty’ by layering the pale lime honey with some darker heather honey from the North York Moors.
The bees tend to be active making honey from around April to late September, but for a few months in the middle of that period, you might find a swarm – check first that they’re actually honey bees, and if you’re happy that they are, take a look at the York and District Beekeepers Association website where you’ll find a list of members – including Paul – who’ll be happy to come and take them away for you:
Honey is a family affair for the Denstons – Paul’s father was a beekeeper and his daughters sometimes help him out – and it’s clear that he regards his bees as an extension of that family. He’s keen to point out how precious this substance we take for granted as an everyday commodity actually is – each hive holds about 30,000 to 40,000 bees, and each will produce only around 1/12th
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And make no mistake, that would be a disaster – bees are hugely important pollinators, keeping food crops healthy and flourishing – according to the FoE website, a world without bees would cost farmers in this country an annual £1.8bn to pollinate their crops. The campaign group has launched Bee Cause (don’t blame us, we didn’t make the name up!), which has lots of simple ways of helping your local bee population, from making your garden more bee-friendly to building a simple bee house to keep them warm in winter. Find out more here: www.friendsoftheearth.uk/bees
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/ 2019 2020 | 19
Photography by Tim Green
RECIPES Dark chocolate honeycomb bites Honeycomb, cinder toffee, hokey pokey – whatever you choose to call it, it’s rare to find someone who doesn’t love this sweet treat. At the Pipe and Glass we serve these as a garnish with our cinder toffee ice cream, which has been on the menu since day one and is always a firm favourite with our customers. This is a really simple recipe which creates fabulous results, but take heed: when the mix turns light golden in colour, speed is of the essence. Remove it from the heat immediately and add the bicarbonate of soda to prevent overcooking. And it’ll be hot and bubbling, so do take care. This is essentially a very smart version of a good old-fashioned Crunchie bar – so smart, though, that alongside a glass of dessert wine or sherry (we especially like them with a nice glass of Pedro Ximénez), they make great petits fours. And, of course, package them up prettily, and they make the perfect gift for a sweet-toothed friend.
Ingredients Makes 30 bites 75g honey 540g sugar 5 tablespoons of water 20g bicarbonate of soda 300g good quality dark chocolate buttons
Method 1. P ut the honey, sugar and water into a deep pan (it needs to be deep as the mix will bubble up to the top) and bring to the boil. Continue boiling until the mix turns light golden in colour. Remove from the heat and immediately whisk in the bicarbonate of soda – this is when the mix will really bubble up, so be careful! 2. P our onto a tray lined with greaseproof paper and allow to cool. 3. W hen cool break into bite-sized pieces by tapping with the heel of a knife. 4. M elt 200g of the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water. Remove from the heat and add the other 100g of chocolate to melt. While the chocolate is still runny, dip and coat the pieces of honeycomb in it and lay onto some greaseproof paper or a silicone mat and allow to set.
“ This is essentially a very smart version of a good old-fashioned Crunchie bar. ”
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20 | T H E P A N T R Y
Honey baked figs with air-dried ham, Yorkshire blue cheese and walnuts This is delicious, easy and adaptable – it can be served as a light lunch with bitter salad leaves, as a great dinner party starter (pop it in the middle of the table for all to share), or as a savoury course. And you can make it without the ham for a vegetarian version.
Ingredients Serves 4 12 figs 4 tbsps runny honey 200g Yorkshire blue cheese 12 slices good quality air-dried ham (Serrano or Iberico, for instance) 2 tbsps good quality rapeseed oil 200g walnut halves Bitter salad leaves such as curly endive, chicory or forced dandelion leaf (optional)
Method 1. P re-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. 2. C ut a cross in the top of each fig, almost, but not all the way, to the bottom. Gently open the figs out and place a crumbled piece of Yorkshire blue cheese in the top of each one. 3. W rap a slice of the ham around the fig: you may need to fold the ham in half lengthways to wrap it around the fig neatly. 4. P lace the figs on a baking tray, spoon the honey over, and place the walnut halves around the figs. Drizzle the oil lightly over the figs and walnuts.
Photography by Tim Green
5. P lace in the oven and bake for 8-10 minutes. Remove and serve on a plate dressed with the walnuts, roasting juices and bitter leaves.
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2019 | 21
Photography by Tim Green
Honey and elderflower madeleines These are delicious dusted with a little icing sugar and served alongside your morning coffee or afternoon tea. They’d also make a lovely accompaniment to ice cream, or, with a dollop of good cream, or perhaps chantilly cream (sweetened cream with a little vanilla added), a simple pudding in themselves.
Ingredients Makes 12
½ tsp baking powder
4 tbsps Lockington honey
1 tbsp elderflower cordial
3 medium eggs
Finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed lemon
80g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
75g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
Method 1. Beat the honey and eggs together with an electric whisk until pale, thick and light.
5. P reheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Butter and flour your madeleine tin.
2. S ift the flour and baking powder over the top and then fold in.
6. S poon the mix into each individual hole until three-quarters full.
3. S tir in the elderflower cordial, lemon zest and melted butter, and mix.
7. B ake for 10-12 minutes – they should be golden brown and risen in the middle.
4. C over with cling film and put in the fridge for 30 minutes to let the batter become stiff.
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8. R emove and leave to cool for a couple of minutes in the tin, then gently turn out on to a rack to cool.
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Behind every great menu is a great kitchen
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/ 2019 2020 | 23
The news in brief
Bush Telegraph
Voted
No
6 out of 163
Budget We’ve said it before and we’ll no doubt say it again – choose well, and you can eat top quality food for much the same price as at your local pizza joint.
The Pipe and Glass also received plaudits in The Daily Telegraph around the same time as one of the 50 best pubs with rooms in England. Giving it a 9 out of 10 ‘Telegraph expert rating’ (we’re not going to worry about that missing mark – not a single pub on the list merited a 10, apparently, and the majority were rated 8 out of 10), the venerable newspaper said: “This formerly run-down old coaching inn… doubles as a popular bar and a destination restaurant with ease. There's something for everyone: from pub classics in the bar to short menus in the Michelin-starred restaurant embellished by daily specials and a comprehensive choice of vegetarian dishes. There's no tasting menu – it doesn't suit the pub setting.”
Dinner ladies James and his team recently welcomed to their kitchen school chef Jane Senior. Jane, who is kitchen manager at Horbury St Peter’s School in Wakefield, worked alongside the brigade for a day as part of the Lead Association for Catering in Education’s nationwide initiative Host a School Chef, sponsored by Alaska Seafood. Current legislation requires that 30% of a child’s daily nutriitional requirements are present in a school meal. Jane said: “Working in the Pipe and Glass kitchen was a very different challenge to those which I face daily, but one which I relished.”
The respected online news service The Huffington Post reported recently that dining out at a Michelin-starred restaurant might be cheaper than you think. It quoted a survey conducted by website Kitchen Knives, which had analysed the menus of the UK’s 163 Michelinstarred restaurants and come up with an average price at each for a starter, main course and pudding from the evening menu. The Pipe and Glass, reported The HuffPost in a piece snappily headlined ’10 Michelin star restaurants you can dine at in the UK for less than £35’, came in at a healthy number six on the overall list of 151 (just to complicate things, they discounted 12 of the garlanded restaurants which served mainly small plates as being not comparable). “The majority of the places in the list are located in London, seven to be exact, but there are a few further afield,” it said. “The Pipe and Glass, a gastropub in Beverley, East Riding, Yorkshire, costs as little as £31.50 and come in at number six on the list.”
Mires Beck Nursery As you might know, many of the herbs for the Pipe and Glass are grown in its own kitchen garden at the back of the restaurant. And some of those plants are sourced from Mires Beck Nursery. This very special place at North Cave is a green haven where vulnerable adults can learn about horticulture, gardening and conservation, and make friends at the same time. James was very pleased to be asked recently to contribute a recipe to a fund-raising cookbook the Nursery is planning – watch this space for more information.
Glorious Game Guests staying at The Old Lambing Yard can while away a happy hour or two leafing through a new cookbook, Glorious Game.
miresbeck.co.uk
Published by our old friends Face Publications (who also published James’ book On the Menu – now very close to a complete sell-out, by the way), it features recipes from 101 of the country’s leading chefs – and James was very happy to contribute one of his favourite dishes, roast red-legged partridge with braised partridge and pancetta faggot, creamed barley, redcurrant and sloe gin relish.
…or posh? An endorsement as one of the country’s top 10 best ‘budget’ Michelin-starred restaurants is all the more remarkable when you consider that less than a fortnight after that survey was published the Pipe and Glass was also named by The Daily Mail as one of Britain’s 10 ‘poshest pubs’. “These incredible elite inns have one thing in common – they all offer great big dollops of luxury and fine food, as well as real ales and cosy atmospheres,” said the Mail Online of a list which also included Josh Eggleton’s The Pony & Trap at Chew Magna in Somerset, Nick Parkinson’s The Royal Oak Paley Street at Littlefield Green in Berkshire, and Tom Kerridge’s The Hand and Flower at Marlow, Buckinghamshire. “A former coaching inn in South Dalton, East Yorkshire, the Pipe and Glass has been run since 2006 by James and Kate Mackenzie – and we really, really like what they’ve done with the place,” the Mail continued. “They have created a warm, comfortable Yorkshire country pub – parts of which date back to the 17th century - where customers can drop in for a pint, or enjoy exceptionally high standards of modern cuisine. Should you wish to stay the night – and since you’re there, why not? – you can choose from five [now nine!] graceful and well-equipped bedrooms. Think super king-sized beds with Yorkshire handmade luxury mattresses.”
James says: “All the proceeds from Glorious Game are going directly to The Moorland Communities Trust and The Game and Wildlife Conservation Trust, both causes close to my heart. Game is so underrated – it’s sustainable, healthy and absolutely delicious. I’m thrilled to be featured in here alongside so many friends, all of them fantastic chefs.” facepublications.com
Hooting Owl gin You might think you’ve tried every flavour of gin going – but we bet you’ve never had tomato and lovage! The Pipe and Glass is currently developing four delicious new gins with artisan distillery Hooting Owl, based at Barmby Moor House, less than 20 miles away – like the Pipe and Glass, it’s a former coaching inn. The unusual flavours are Yorkshire rhubarb and vanilla, Yorkshire tayberry, English summer fruits, Yorkshire autumn berries and – yes! – vine tomato and lovage. All the ingredients used to flavour the five small batch London Dry gins are inspired by James’ recipes and garden.
Top of the league James recently took over the kitchens at Driffield RUFC for a fund-raising lunch which raised over £2,500 for the charity Prostate Cancer UK. DRUFC’s Commercial Manager Ben Medhurst says: “It was fantastic – I’m not sure the kitchen at the club has ever experienced anything quite like it! The whole day was a total success. James and his team performed brilliantly in the kitchen and the 1st XV won. It doesn’t get much better!”
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The Pantry team Editors Editors at at large: large: James, James, Kate, Kate, Toby Toby and and Molly Molly Mackenzie Mackenzie Editor: Design and production: Helena Dawson www.graphicpower.co.uk Design and production: www.graphicpower.co.uk
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Unless otherwise credited, words are by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew: www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
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