THE NEWSPAPER OF THE PIPE AND GL ASS – 2018
Come into the garden… Welcome to the 2018 issue of The Pantry, the newspaper of The Pipe and Glass. We spent a lot of last year out in the garden – it’s had a glorious makeover and is now not just a place to linger over lunch or a drink, but is providing a lot of produce for our kitchens. We hope you’ll enjoy exploring it, both in the pages of The Pantry and next time you visit… You’ll find all the usual news and views in here, too, plus dates for your diary and more – we hope you enjoy it!
Blooming lovely…
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Just one year in and already the gardens at the Pipe and Glass are winning major awards.
A trio of great recipes It's the nation's favourite - Sunday roast recipes just for you.
page 19
Making his Mark
page 7
Catch up with international star Mark Addy at the Pipe and Glass.
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Everything in the garden is rosy The gardens have always been an important part of the warm and relaxed atmosphere at the Pipe and Glass. But over the last couple of years, James, Kate and the Pipe and Glass staff have worked closely with Malton-based garden designer Stephen Bean to create even more idyllic surroundings for the pub. The planting at the front – colourful in the warmer months, still lush and green in the colder parts of the year – welcomes visitors, and provides a relaxing backdrop for those eating and drinking at the informal picnic tables in fine weather. At the back, an assortment of different garden spaces fulfils many needs: it’s a great place to wander and explore before or after dinner (much appreciated by those with little ones needing to let off a bit of steam!); it’s a glorious view for those dining in the conservatory; and, with every one of the plants in the garden now being edible, it provides so much produce for the kitchen – and for zero air miles!
The two areas are linked by verdant pathways to the side of the pub, so in good weather, you could visit and stay outdoors all day long, if you wished. For those seeking inspiration for their own garden, there are many innovative aspects, from the dramatic round table at the centre to the living wall which enables the Pipe and Glass to grow a wide assortment of wonderful herbs in a relatively small space. And we haven’t forgotten about the history of the gardens at this former coaching inn – one of our favourite garden elements is the magnificent 500-year-old yew tree, the only tree on the Dalton Estate with a preservation order. And we’ve added to that sense of history with a rather special apple tree, which you can read about opposite.
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The apple never falls far from the tree
" W hy sh[oul]d it not go sideways, or upwards? But constantly to the Earth's centre? Assuredly the reason is, that the Earth draws it.
One of the most intriguing plants in our garden is a rare Flower of Kent apple tree which is a direct descendant of one of the most famous trees of all time – that which led Sir Isaac Newton to develop the theory of gravity.
There must be a drawing power in matter. And the sum of the drawing power in the matter of the Earth must be in the Earth's centre, not in any side of the Earth.
Whether the story is true or not, it’s one of the best-known in British scientific history – that Newton was sitting under an apple tree in his garden in Lincolnshire in 1666 when one of its fruits fell on his head.
Although Newton himself never wrote the story down, we have the following account of this momentous event from his friend and biographer, William Stukeley:
" A fter dinner, the weather being warm, we went into the garden & drank thea under the shade of some apple tree; only he & myself. " Amid other discourse, he told me, he was just in the same situation, as when formerly the notion of gravitation came into his mind. Why sh[oul]d that apple always descend perpendicularly to the ground, thought he to himself; occasion'd by the fall of an apple, as he sat in contemplative mood.
" Therefore does this apple fall perpendicularly or towards the centre? If matter thus draws matter; it must be proportion of its quantity. Therefore the apple draws the Earth, as well as the Earth draws the apple." The remarkable tree that prompted such a complex thought process still survives at Newton's birthplace, Woolsthorpe Manor; over the years, grafted cuttings have been taken from it, and from the trees which have grown from those cuttings. Ours came to us from York University, where a tree given to the Department of Physics by Kew Gardens in 1976 flourishes. Writing on the university’s website, the department’s Dr Richard Keesing tells us: “It came [to Kew] from the Cambridge Botanical Gardens who obtained it from the Fruit Research Station at East Malling in Kent. They obtained their stock from a tree at Belton Park in Lincolnshire in the 1930’s which had been propagated there from Newton’s garden at Woolsthorpe Manor by the Rev Charles Turnor about the year 1820.” James says: “It’s truly remarkable to think that we have a little bit of such important history growing in our garden here at the Pipe and Glass.” And who knows – next time you order the ever-popular trio of apples for pudding, you could be eating a little bit of history.
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BR I TA I N IN BLOOM® with the RHS
Wow! Blooming lovely…
water butts for watering – no pesticides are used and even the indoor furniture is made from recycled wood.
Just one year in, and already the gardens at the Pipe and Glass are gathering major awards thanks to their ‘wow’ factor.
“The Pipe and Glass is a hugely successful gastropub and James holds cookery schools in the lovely garden as well as appearing on television sharing his passion for using plants and flowers in cooking and as part of a healthy life. Well done to all concerned – a stunning and very innovative entry.”
The newly-designed gardens gained a coveted Gold Award in the 2017 Yorkshire in Bloom awards (Public Houses and Restaurants section).
The nomination for the discretionary award (and we’d like to say a big thank you to John and Joy Smith for that!) echoes much of the above.
The venue was also the recipient of the discretionary Yorkshire Rose Commercial Award, presented to the nominee demonstrating the best involvement from the business and retail sector. “Space is too restricted to do justice to the ‘wow’ factor of the Pipe and Glass,” said the judges. “We were shown a wonderland of edible plants and flowers by James and Stephen [Bean] who are obviously very passionate about growing flowers, nuts and berries, shrubs, vegetables and herbs to complement the food served in the lovely restaurant by James and his wife Kate.”
“A wonderland of edible plants and flowers… to complement the food served in the lovely restaurant .”
The judges appreciated the Mackenzies’ attention to detail when it came to caring for wildlife and appreciating the venerable history of the Pipe and Glass gardens. “Hanging baskets are a delightful haven for wildlife with bug huts and log piles, a wooded area with beautiful wooden sculptures of a stag and a deer. Wild garlic grows alongside snowdrops and daffodils in spring and the grassy banks at the front are covered in thousands of daffodils.
Yorkshire in Bloom is a charity, the regional body representing the Britain in Bloom campaign organised by the Royal Horticultural Society. It organises annual competitions to encourage communities of all sizes, small villages, towns or big cities, to make a positive and lasting improvement to their local environment for the benefit of local people. The RHS encourages all communities to get involved to help create safer, cleaner and greener local environments.
Beverley blossoms at top awards The Pipe and Glass would like to congratulate the lovely town of Beverley, just up the road, for its success in the Yorkshire in Bloom competition – it won a Gold Award and was winner of the overall category for large town/small city, and the Yorkshire Rose Award for Best Town 2017. The judges commented: “The horticultural standards displayed coupled with the rich heritage the town has to offer puts Beverley in the top echelons of visitor destinations.”
“Care for the environment is paramount with recycling of plants, composting and www.pipeandglass.co.uk
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2018 | 5
Eat up! Many of the edible herbs and plants growing in the gardens at the Pipe and Glass are easy to grow at home – you may already have some of them in your own garden, or in pots on your kitchen windowsill. Here are ten of James’ favourites, with a few ideas from him on what to do with them.
Lemon verbena
Wild garlic
Sweet smelling and – yes! – lemon-y, lemon verbena adds an unusual and elegant flavour note to possets, ice cream and sorbets, panna cotta and dressings. It can also be used to make a reviving tea with a wide range of health-giving properties claimed for it.
One of my absolute favourites, wild garlic grows in abundance at the back of the Pipe and Glass – its rich perfume drifting across to the kitchens in March is one of the first signs of spring. Also known as ramsons, buckrams and bear’s garlic, you can eat both the broad leaves and the star-like white flowers – use in soups, pesto, mayonnaise, dumplings and for finishing stews. Crusty white bread flecked with vivid green wild garlic leaves always goes down a treat with our customers.
Lovage
Apples
Sage
Where to start? Every garden should have an apple tree if there’s room – they’re useful right across the board, in both sweet and savoury dishes. This most English of fruits has a place in every kitchen, whether you choose traditional dishes like crumbles, pies, sorbets, chutneys, baked apples or apple sauce to accompany your Sunday roast pork, or grated or sliced raw into salads. We grow 12 different varieties at the Pipe and Glass, including eating, cooking and dual-purpose apples. Varieties include Isaac Newton, Russet and Sunset. And one of our most popular puddings over the years has proved to be the trio of apples, comprising bramley and bramble crumble, sticky apple sponge and a green apple sorbet.
Celery-like in both appearance and flavour, lovage can be used in soups, mayonnaises, pestos and dressings, and in that most warming of old English winter drinks, brandy and lovage (you can buy it as a cordial if you wish). You can see it on the menu at the Pipe and Glass in the delicious mussels with lovage and perry. We like it so much we named the largest of our bedrooms after it! Salad burnet
Borage
Sage, with its gorgeous velvety-soft leaves, is a great all-rounder. We grow various varieties at the Pipe and Glass, including green, purple and pineapple (and yes, it does have a distinctly pineapple-y flavour and smell). You probably think immediately of sage and onion stuffing but, delicious though that is, don’t limit yourself to it – try sage to perk up sausage rolls, blend with walnuts, garlic and Parmesan to make an unusual pesto for pasta, and use for garnishing soups. The leaves are fabulous deep-fried, like a herby, savoury crisp – serve them with roast pork or on top of a risotto. Another much-loved herb which lends its name to one of our rooms. Plums
Known as the starflower, the lavender-blue blossoms of the borage plant have a delicate cudumber flavour. Use them to garnish both sweet and savoury dishes – and, of course, they look great in a glass of Pimm’s on a hot summer’s day!
Ignore the name – there are many more uses for salad burnet than just as an addition to salads, although its clean, cucumber-y taste makes it a welcome addition there. Try it also in lemonade or spritzers, to add flavour to a dip, or as a garnish for pork and fish. If you’re adding it to a hot dish, try and do so at the last minute – it’s a delicate herb whose flavour won’t withstand too much heat. Bronze fennel
Violas and nasturtiums
Edible flowers can really pep up a salad, adding a dash of vibrant colour – and it doesn’t get much more vivid than rich purple violas and burned-orange nasturtiums. The peppery-hot nasturtium leaves are also a delicious addition to salads. And don’t forget the flowers when you’re looking for a garnish to glam up your cocktail. www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Majestic bronze fennel is not to be confused with the more common sweet or Florence fennel, grown for its bulb which is used as a vegetable. Bronze fennel grows into fantastical feathery clouds of leaves which can be used in fish dishes, as part of a dry cure for salmon and as a garnish on salads. The aniseed-tasting seeds make a stomach-soothing tea, can be used as a garnish, and are a welcome addition to many breads.
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Another kitchen stalwart – we grow various varieties including the local, regally dusty-purple, Kilnwick plum, gages, cooking and dessert plums. Like most stone fruits, plums and gages become absolutely sumptuous when grilled or stewed with butter and sugar – make a plum sauce to serve with pork belly, roast and serve with lemon posset or vanilla and buttermilk panna cotta, or make the most of a glut with chutneys and jams for a little home-made luxury in a long cold winter.
If you have an unusual use for any of the ingredients above, we’d love to hear from you!
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2018 | 7
MAKING HIS MARK He’s very much a local – but diners at the Pipe and Glass occasionally still do a double-take when they spot Mark Addy in the restaurant. The unassuming York-born actor is recognised worldwide from his roles in film and on TV. His breakthrough role came 21 years ago, when he played Dave Horsefall, one of the motley crew of steelworkers-becomestrippers who turned their lives around while keeping their hats on in one of the best British comedies of all time, The Full Monty.
drama Atlantis, and warrior-gone-to-seed Robert Baratheon in the wildly popular Game of Thrones. And there may be Pantry readers who remember him in one of his very earliest roles as Don in the comedy One Over the Eight at Scarborough’s Stephen Joseph Theatre in the Round in 1992, alongside another future star, David Harewood. It sounds like a life full of glitz and glamour, but Mark is happy to enjoy a simple life in East Yorkshire with his wife, Kelly, and children Ruby, Charlie and Oscar.
Since then, he’s headlined in Hollywood, including portraying lovable caveman Fred Flintstone in The Flintstones 2; fronted a US sitcom, Still Standing; and donned sandals and sword to play Hercules in the BBC Saturday night
“My wife and I first came to the Pipe and Glass the day we went to view the house we now live in, just outside Market Weighton,” he recalls. “This was about seven years ago now, and I’d be lying if I said it didn’t affect our decision to buy! The idea of having such a great restaurant practically on our doorstep was too good to resist.”
“ The idea of having such a great restaurant practically on our doorstep was too good to resist .” And the actor who has achieved such lofty heights while still staying true to his roots appreciates similar qualities in his favourite restaurant: “We love the fact that although it’s a Michelin-starred establishment, it has remained down to earth and friendly, whilst keeping very high standards. “Also, I’m delighted, as a Yorkshireman, that the portion sizes are for real people! “It’s impossible to choose a favourite dish, and I generally vary my choice via the specials board. But I do remember a beef bourguignon which was heaven!”
So what does 2018 hold for the busy star? He’s just finished the New York transfer of Martin McDonagh’s hilarious and harrowing Hangmen for the Atlantic Theater Company, in which he played the ‘second best hangman in the land’ Harry Wade, alongside Maxwell Caulfield and Johnny Flynn (and says: “As much as I’m enjoying the food here, I’m looking forward to my first meal back at the Pipe and Glass!”). And he has three films due out this year: Lies We Tell with Gabriel Byrne, which was shot in and around Bradford; The More You Ignore Me with Sheridan Smith, based on a novel by Jo Brand; and The Runaways, with Tara Fitzgerald and fellow Full Monty alumnus Steve Huison, the principal photography for which took place on the North York Moors.
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David Hockney’s A Bigger Book Just up the road from the Pipe and Glass
He’s 80 years old, but David Hockney still sees the world through fresh young eyes, and really helped to put East Yorkshire on the map. The Bradford-born artist has lived in London, Paris and Los Angeles. But it was an extended stay in Bridlington, where his late mother had lived, in the first decade of this century that led to one of his most prolific and fascinating artist periods, lovingly portraying the landscapes of the area. The artist moved back to his home county in 2005, and began a series of paintings that includes one of his most famous – the epic Bigger Trees Near Warter. Fifty individual panels that join together to make one huge artwork, it was painted in Bridlington and depicts a stand of trees just ten miles up the road from the Pipe and Glass. Other paintings created in the following few years include portraits of Sledmere, Garrowby Hill, Millington and Fridaythorpe, all within a few minutes’ drive of South Dalton.
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And where did the grand artist like to eat when he was living and working in Bridlington? Obviously, the Pipe and Glass! “Mr Hockney ate here on more than one occasion in the late noughties,” says James. “It was a real honour to welcome him to the Pipe and Glass.” Many of the East Yorkshire paintings from that period were featured in the exhibition A Bigger Picture at the Royal Academy of Arts in 2012, a collaboration with the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao and the Museum Ludwig, Cologne. And they can be seen in remarkable book now on display at East Yorkshire’s Artmarket Gallery in Cottingham. A Bigger Book is signed by Hockney and is limited edition of just 9,000, each numbered and signed by the artist. It contains 450 prints dating back to 1953, including some never seen before, and just 15 lines of text by Hockney, who says: “A book like this shouldn’t have much text.” It includes his 1960s depictions of swinging London, the famous Californian pool paintings, portraits,
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iPad drawings alongside the East Yorkshire landscapes. There are also drawings, photocomposites, collages, stage designs and images from his innovative multi-camera video works. Published by Taschen, the book weighs in at a mighty 35kg, and comes complete with its own specially designed stand by Apple designer Marc Newson with legs in Hockney’s favourite blue, red and yellow and an acrylic platform. Hockney himself was involved in every stage of the book’s production, and calls it ‘an autobiography in pictures, made by a person who loves pictures and makes them’. The signed book, complete with stand, is available at the Artmarket Gallery, each signed book costs £2250. www.artmarket.co.uk
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2018 | 9
Available online and in gallery
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10 | T H E P A N T R Y
HUZ Z AH FOR THE HUSSARS!
Local history
If you could travel back in time to the beginning of World War II, you might bump into one of those dashing officers on the front row of our picture having a pint at the Pipe and Glass. We use the photograph with kind permission of David Sanderson, whose father, Trooper Eric Sanderson, is pictured sixth from the left on the second-to-back row. It was taken at Beverley, David believes by a local photographer called Hollingsworth (this is most likely T Hollingsworth, whose studio was at 18 North Bar Within). The 4th Queen’s Own Hussars was a cavalry regiment, first raised (as The Princess Anne of Denmark's Regiment of Dragoons) in 1685; its number included Sir Arthur
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Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington, who commanded it in the early 1800s, some six years before his famous victory at Waterloo in 1815, and Winston Churchill, who was commissioned as a cornet in the regiment in 1895. The Hussars saw plenty of battle action, including being part of the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava in 1854 (by then it was known as the 4th (The Queen’s Own) Regiment of (Light) Dragoons, not taking its final name until 1861). In 1939, the regiment was stationed at the Dalton Estate. David provides us with this informative extract from the excellent history Fourth Hussar by David Scott Daniell (which has a foreword by Winston Churchill): “The regiment went to the Market Weighton area in Yorkshire at the beginning of November. It has a threefold role: to deal with German parachutists, to defend Hull north of the Humber if the enemy invaded, and to protect the widely scattered
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aerodromes. Roadblocks were manned and anti-aircraft defence and air raid precautions also took up the time. The main oocupation, however, was strenuous training, and the regiment worked hard. The only relief was an occasional hunt with the Holderness, and a memorable brigade mounted reconnaissance which was in fact an old-style point-to-point, every officer who could raise a horse competed.”
6th Australian Infantry Division. As the rearguard in the Corinth Canal Bridge action the regiment was overrun and surrendered, and all senior officers and over 400 men became prisoners of war – so at least some of the men in our picture ended up in PoW camps.
“T he main occupation was strenuous training, and the regiment worked hard. ”
The regiment was in the area for just a year – in November 1940, it left for the Middle East, where it fought in the Greek Campaign as part of the 1st Armoured Brigade in the
David Sanderson met recently with the 101-year-old widow of Fourth Hussar Cyril Cooper, driver for Major Dollar. She told him that the officers often visited the Pipe and Glass. We’d love to hear from anyone who has any memories or photographs of those visits.
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2018 | 11
Golden boy
Over the moon
A brilliant standard
It was third time lucky for York catering student Zacharias Abbott when he took the title of the Golden Apron, Yorkshire’s best young chef.
Zach said he was ‘thrilled, ecstatic and over the moon’ and had ‘loved every second’ of the competition. “Normally my gran cooks at Christmas,” he said. “But this year we'll probably have one of my dishes!”
James Mackenzie said: “This year’s result was the closest it’s ever been – the standard was just brilliant. It’s all about their ideas, their recipes, and it goes on the plate exactly the way they want it – there’s no doubt that these three have a very, very bright future.”
The teenager, who had entered the competition twice before, reaching the semi-finals the first time and the finals the second, won a package of prizes including the chance to design a range of products which appeared on the shelves of sponsors ASDA last Christmas. These were the Extra Special Triple Lamb Crown – which won the Christmas Meat award at the Quality Food Awards – and the 28 Day Matured Beef Rump Joint with a portobello, porcini and truffle duxelle. Zacharias (18) is from Stamford Bridge near York, and completed a two-year professional cookery diploma at York College. He is now a senior chef de partie at York’s Middlethorpe Hall.
Yorkshire venison Zacharias’s main dish was juniper-rolled Yorkshire venison with fondant potatoes, carrot, parsnip, rhubarb and ginger with a port and cranberry sauce. The Golden Apron is run by James Mackenzie, the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School and farming company JSR, both based at Southburn near Driffield. It is sponsored by ASDA and Cranswick plc and is open to young chefs aged between 14 and 19 from across the county. The two runners-up in the recent competition were Joseph Lees (then 16) from Whitby, who was studying at Caedmon College, including GCSE catering, and Adam Rothery (then 17), from Anlaby, who was studying level 2 culinary skills at Hull College. The trio of talented teenagers cooked their own dish representing ‘My Yorkshire’ and a pudding recipe supplied by James at the semi-final held at the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School. At the final at the Pipe and Glass, each cooked a starter-sized portion of their ‘My Yorkshire’ dish for 70 guests who then voted ‘blind’ on the three dishes.
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Joseph prepared pan-roasted rack of lamb coated in a Dijon herb crust with sweet garlic, roasted roots with a quince and rosemary reduction. Adam’s dish was 32-day dry-aged beef fillet and rock oysters with sweet potato gnocchi, seaweed and beef jus. The three were supported in the kitchen by James and his team and by ASDA Innovations Development Chef Mark Richmond.
Mark Richmond said: “Chefs seem to be getting younger and more inspiring – the skills that they show at such a young age are amazing. These three all have a burning ambition, which is very encouraging.” Tim Rymer, CEO of JSR Farms said that the standard of entries was getting higher, and the competition tougher, every year. As part of his prize, Zacharias will also receive a work placement with sponsors and food suppliers Cranswick plc. Howard Cheshire, New Product Development Manager, Cranswick plc said that Zacharias would work with his team to learn about the role of the development chef and see ideas through to the table. In-kind sponsors of the Golden Apron 2017 were House of Townend, Russums, Wellocks, ABP Food Group, Holme Farmed Venison and Dunbia.
The winner was announced by Aisling “ Chefs seem to be Lyne, ASDA’s getting younger and Senior The Golden Manager more inspiring .” Apron, the of Product search for Development Yorkshire’s and best Innovations, who said: “Zacharias will young chef, is taking a break in be working with us and Cranswick 2018 – but look out for details to develop new dishes that will be on of next year’s competition ASDA’s shelves at Christmas, and towards the end of the year! will be building on the very high standard that last year’s winner set.”
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12 | T H E P A N T R Y
MEET THE PRODUCER Laurel Vines, Aike, East Yorkshire
English wine is having something of a moment, with vineyards across the country winning international awards and reporting increasing sales. Leading the charge in East Yorkshire is Laurel Vineyard in the tiny village of Aike, less than 10 miles east of the Pipe and Glass. The vineyard, which was first planted in 2011 with just 2,000 vines, now has 9,500 vines in the ground, and currently produces a range of 13 white and rosé wines, many of them medal-winners.
Their first red, currently in tank and shortly to go into oak barrels to give a depth of flavour, will be ready to drink in about a year. And among those nearly 10,000 vines are some newly planted Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir grapes, which will soon go into Laurel’s latest venture, an English sparkling white due to hit the region’s flutes in around three to four years. The Sargent family, which runs the company, has also recently invested a quarter of a million pounds in a brand new state-of-the-art winery standing alongside the vineyard, which will allow more scope for development. “Everything’s completely temperature-controlled now,” explains
Kate Mackenzie, who oversees the Pipe and Glass’s wine list, says: “It’s great to be able to showcase wines on our list that are from a East Yorkshire vineyard just a few miles from the Pipe and Glass.”
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Rebekah Sargent, Laurel’s Sales Manager. “And because the winery is so close to the vines, the grapes never go more than four hours from being picked to being processed.” It’s a pretty remarkable achievement in just seven years, especially as Rebekah’s dad Ian, who founded the company, admits that back then he knew little about wine beyond the fact that he enjoying drinking it. “He also runs an electrical company in Beverley,” says Rebekah. “He basically wanted an excuse to get outside, and get away from it all!” That call of the wild led to Ian and his wife Ann buying a piece of land near to their former home with no clear idea of what to do with it. Soil testing suggested that it was perfect for growing grapes – East Yorkshire’s chalky soil is much like that of France’s Champagne region – and the rest, as they say, is oenological history. Laurel Wines is now a thriving family business – as well as Ian, Ann and Rebekah, the latter’s partner, Jonathan, and Ian’s brother Neil, are involved.
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“ The grapes never go more than four hours from being picked to being processed.” “We also have Adrian Scott working for us part-time – not a family member, but as he lives two doors down, he might as well be!” says Rebekah. With wine giants Marks and Spencer recently reporting sales of English sparkling wine up 15% last year, the future is looking extremely (sorry!) rosé for Laurel Vines.
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2018 | 13
What price English wine? of land. Then there’s preparation, trellising, training wires, etc – up to £30,000 per acre. Vines cost around £1.50 each – with a normal planting of 3,000-4,000 per acre, around £24,000 for a moderate four-acre site capable of producing at maturity around 3,400 bottles. Add in the cost of the workforce – vineyards need constant attention – and the fact that our climate means the first harvestable crop may be five years away, and you get the picture.
by Simon Kershaw
Laurel Vines supplies the Pipe and Glass with three wines at the moment:
Moissanite (2015) An unoaked dry white, Moissanite has a clean pale straw colour and is made from a single grape variety from Seyval Blanc grapes. Perfect as an aperitif, or drink with it savoury or fish dishes.
Moonstone (2015) A dry white with a clean bright pale straw colour, light elderflower notes on the nose, and a good structure and length. Partner it with savoury or fish dishes, or drink as an aperitif.
Garnet Rosé (2015) A medium dry rosé: fresh, clean and dark pink, made from a single grape variety from Rondo grapes. Drink as an aperitif or pair with seafood, especially smoked fish and salads.
English wine is winning great victories at international competitions; most recently Norfolk’s Winbirri Vineyard won platinum at the 2017 Decanter Awards for its Bacchus 2015 vintage, beating wines from around the world. Great news, and well done them; however, not all English wine merits such recognition, with quality varying considerably from the sublime to the questionable.
This is not an investment for the faint hearted – there’s a saying: “To make a million pounds from a vineyard you must start with four”.
So why are producers asking similar prices to champagne and other leading wines from around the world? And why should we consider paying those prices? Let’s look at the facts. There are some 502 vineyards in the UK, a number slowly but surely increasing as more people are attracted by the opportunity to drink wine from their own vineyard. The average-sized UK vineyard is four hectares, with annual production at around five million bottles by around 133 wineries. The UK has 2,000 hectares under vine; the Champagne region alone has 38,000. We hear that French companies are now buying up land in our key wine-producing areas such as Sussex and Kent. In December 2015, Taittinger bought land to plant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in preparation for production of English sparkling wine around 2025. Understandable when you consider that land under vine in Champagne realises around a £1m an acre compared to £6,000-£7,000 in the UK.
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So are English wines worth the money? I certainly believe we now produce world-class sparkling wines and a few still white wines of outstanding quality, albeit in small quantities. That fact alone is enough to create demand and add value. And if we wish to see the UK develop its winemaking reputation and take its place alongside the rest of the world, surely we should support by buying British, showing the same commitment to our wines as the French, Italians and Spanish do. Chin chin!
So why is the price of English wine on a par with that of our friends across the Channel, never mind equivalent quality? Find out more about Laurel Vines: Visit www.laurel-vines.co.uk Call 07513 012 708 Follow @LaurelVines
This paints a gloomy picture for those enthusiasts wishing to invest, but all is not lost. The French talk of their ‘terroir’ – the environment that contributes to the quality of the wine. We have the same chalk and limestone. As global warming continues, Champagne now averages temperatures 2.5°C warmer than 25 years ago. The ‘duvet’ effect is making the UK one of the best cold climate wine-producing regions in the world, in particular sparkling wines comparable with those of Champagne and elsewhere.
Simon Kershaw The Pipe and Glass is proud to support the British wine industry. Please ask our front of house team for recommendations.
It boils down to two key facts. The first is simple economics: we’d need to buy around £30,000-worth
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Behind every great menu is a great kitchen
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2018 | 15
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Gourmet food, cracking music, lush vibes… James is delighted to be joining the stellar line-up of chefs at Tom Kerridge’s Pub in the Park at Knutsford in September. He will join Tom himself and fellow chefs Paul Ainsworth, Josh Eggleton, Candice Brown, Stephen Terry, Andrew Pern and Angela Hartnett. There’ll be food from the chefs at pop-up versions of their pubs, plus masterclasses and demos.
The impressive music line-up for Knutsford includes sets from Tom Odell, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Nick Corbin, Razorlight, Melanie C (who will hopefully have recovered from May’s royal wedding by then!), Toploader, Gabrielle Aplin, Squeeze, Scouting for Girls, The Rifles, The Christians and Sound of Sirens. The whole thing promises, as the inimitable Mr Kerridge says, ‘gourmet food, cracking music, lush vibes’.
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This delicious festival tours the UK throughout the summer, going to Marlow (where, of course, Tom’s two-Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers is located), Bath and Tunbridge Wells before heading to Knutsford for its final weekend from 7 to 9 September. For more information: pubinthepark.com
Take your cooking to a new level whilst enjoying the Yorkshire Wolds Landscape • A range of courses suitable for everyone from £40-£150 • Bespoke courses available • State of the art facilities • We use the best local produce • Gift vouchers available • 4 star luxury accommodation on site
View our latest courses andbuy gift vouchers online at www.YorkshireWoldsCookerySchool.co.uk Highfield Farm, Southburn Road, Southburn, Driffield, YO25 9AF Tel 01377 227723
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Liqueu r s from the garden
Bearing fruit There’s a moment in nearly every gardener’s year when you’re faced with a glut of something, and a lack of inspiration as to what to do with it – after all, there’s only so much gooseberry jam one family can face, says James. This year, why not try making some delicious alcoholic drinks – it’s a great way of using up that fruity abundance all year round, from our favourite delicate pink forced Yorkshire rhubarb in the early spring to festive clementines and cranberries at Christmas. Here at the Pipe and Glass we make a myriad of different flavoured drinks, including rhubarb, strawberry, raspberry, bramble, redcurrant and Victoria plum schnapps, and gins flavoured with sloes, damsons, gooseberries, greengages and cranberry and clementine.
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But don’t be limited by those ingredients – the possibilities are pretty much endless. Decanted into a pretty bottle and dressed with a hand-written label (perhaps you could suggest a cocktail recipe), they make wonderful gifts. And, of course, you wouldn’t want to give your home-made liqueurs away without trying them yourself first… Everyone who makes their own garden drinks will have their own way of doing things, perhaps handed down through the family for centuries. I have an outline recipe which changes depending on the sweetness of the fruit – and on how sweet you want the finished result to be. I also speed up the infusion process by gently warming (not boiling: please don’t boil it!) the desired alcohol – usually gin or vodka – with the sugar (I reckon on about 200g of caster sugar per litre of spirit) until it dissolves, then decanting the warm liquid over the fruit in a large bottle or Kilner jar. Different drinks will take different lengths of time to fully infuse and be ready to drink. You’ll get a sense from the deepening colour of the liquid – and, of course, you can always
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check by tasting as you go along – just make sure you leave enough to bottle at the end! If you’re using sloes or damsons you need to break the skins of the fruit before adding to the spirit. Some people like to prick them with a pin, or even use the very traditional method of a thorn from the sloe bush. But you can also take the easy way out, and freeze them overnight prior to infusing which has similar results. If you’re using a larger fruit such as rhubarb (yes, I know it’s really a veg, but bear with me on this one!), you’ll need to chop it into smaller pieces. And have some fun: try adding herbs like rosemary, lemon thyme or lemon verbena to give an extra layer of garden-y, herby flavour. One of the great things about making your own drinks from your own produce is that there’s no right and wrong – if you like the end result, it’s good! Now, what to do with all those courgettes… If you have any old family recipes for home-made drinks that you think we might enjoy, particularly if they’re traditional to this area, we’d love to hear from you: email@pipeandglass.co.uk
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2018 | 17
FAMILY WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1906 Based in East Yorkshire and established 110 years ago, House of Townend are a multi award winning independent, family run wine merchant. We stock a range of top quality, great value wines from all over the world. Our offerings range from everyday drinking wines through to some fabulous fine wines. We pride ourselves on working with small, often family owned producers so we can hand select our wines which means you won’t find them in the supermarkets. Our website gives you access to over 2500 wines and spirits, a great selection of mixed case wines and gift sets, and a wealth of related information including downloadable specification sheets so you can build your own portfolio. We keep you regularly informed with our House recommendations and share our trade client chef and sommelier picks, recipes and food/wine pairings. A quick and easy checkout and payment process, 48 hour national delivery service and our regularly updated offers will doubtless leave you coming back for more. Visit houseoftownend.com more for information or call the team on 01482 638888.
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THE GRE AT BRITISH SUNDAY LUNCH Google ‘Sunday roast’, and you’ll discover that in a recent ‘audit of Britishness’, it topped the tables as the most iconic thing about this country.*
“Admittedly, he qualified the compliment by observing that the English art of cooking did not extend much beyond roast beef and plum pudding, but still it was a compliment; and the French term rosbif for Englishmen may be taken as including at least a touch of affection, although usually derogatory.”
Dig a little deeper, and you’ll find conflicting theories as to why it has become such a very potent symbol of this sceptred isle, ranging from medieval serfs being rewarded for their service with a roast ox on a Sunday to the hard-pressed working families of the Industrial Revolution needing a good-tempered meal that could be bunged in the oven and left to its own devices while they went off to church.
Whatever the real history, there’s no doubt that the classic combination of a juicy joint of meat, crisp roast potatoes, and clouds of golden Yorkshire pudding is hugely popular – it’s one of the dishes most in demand in our private dining room on the first floor of the Pipe and Glass.
It even landed us an enduring nickname across the Channel: les rosbifs. In his wonderfully comprehensive and informative Penguin Companion to Food, the late, great food writer Alan Davidson tells us with typically dry humour: “Roasting meat was something at which the British were, indeed are, supposed to excel. An 18th-century visitor to England from Sweden, Per Kalm, remarked that ‘the English men understand almost better than any other people the art of properly roasting a joint’.
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And James is particularly proud of his Yorkshire puds, saying: “Yorkshire pudding is the first recipe that I ever made. I was about five or six years old, and I can remember cracking the eggs and whisking like mad, and my mum saying, 'Carry on, they need more air' – although I think this was just a ploy to keep me occupied and had nothing to do with her recipe! The recipe is simple and it uses an excessive amount of eggs which creates the biggest Yorkshires that you have ever made. “I made my Yorkshire puddings with Kirstie Allsopp for her Channel 4 programme. She was amazed how simple the @pipeandglass
recipe was and described them as the best Yorkshire puddings she’d ever tasted.” If you want to try those Yorkshire pudding, excessive eggs and all, you can find James’ recipe for them and for cold smoked salmon with hot smoked salmon scotch egg and pickled fennel, and rice pudding with cider, apple and bramble compote and cinnamon doughnut on the following pages. We hope you enjoy making them as much as James and Kate's children, Toby and Molly, do. They love Sunday lunch and with their help it becomes a real family affair - but it's also the perfect meal for entertaining at any time of year. * We know you’ll be curious, so here are the top 20 things in the 2016 survey, commissioned by a major UK tea company: • A roast dinner
• The NHS
• Fish and chips
• The City of London
• The BBC
• Buckingham Palace
• The Union flag
• Red London buses
• Wimbledon
• Winston Churchill
• A cup of tea
• HM the Queen
• The Underground
• Queuing
• The Royal Family
• A cream tea
• Only Fools
• James Bond
& Horses
James’ perfect Sunday lunch menu To start Cold smoked salmon with hot smoked salmon scotch egg and pickled fennel The main event Roast beef with Yorkshire puddings For after Baked rice pudding with cider, apple and bramble compote and cinnamon doughnut
To find out more, or book a private dining experience call 01430 810 246 or email: private@pipeandglass.co.uk
• Stonehenge
• The Beatles
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2018 | 19
RECIPES
Cold smoked salmon with hot smoked salmon scotch egg and pickled fennel This might look like a ‘cheffy’ dish, but you could keep it simple and just serve the cold smoked salmon with a pickled fennel salad. The hot smoked salmon scotch quail eggs are a great garnish, and also make a lovely canapé or snack for an Easter or Christmas celebration. Do use a good quality salmon for this: I get mine from Staal Smokehouse just down the road from the Pipe and Glass in Long Riston. Justin Staal produces all things smoked and does mail order: www.staalsmokehouse.co.uk
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Ingredients Serves 4 (as a starter) 8 slices cold smoked salmon 150g crème fraiche Dill oil (optional – see recipe) Fresh dill for garnishd For the scotch eggs: 4 quails’ eggs 150g hot smoked salmon 60g cream cheese zest of ¼ lemon 1 tbsp chopped fresh dill 1 whole egg (beaten) 100g panko white breadcrumbs 100g plain flour Rapeseed oil for deep frying For the pickled fennel: 1 small bulb fennel 200ml white wine vinegar 1 pinch pink peppercorns ½ tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp caster sugar 2 pinches salt
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Method 1. T o make the scotch eggs, boil the quails’ eggs for 2 minutes 30 seconds then refresh in iced water. Leave for 2 minutes to cool. Peel very carefully and place on paper towel in the fridge. 2. M ash the hot smoked salmon with a fork and then add the cream cheese, lemon zest and chopped dill. Mix to a rough pâté texture and place in the fridge to cool. 3. T o make up the eggs, place some cling film flat on a surface, make four little balls of the salmon mixture and then flatten out on the cling film. Coat the cooked peeled quail eggs in plain flour and place in the middle of each flattened ball; wrap the salmon mixture around the eggs. Place back in fridge to cool for about an hour, then pass through flour, egg and breadcrumbs. Reserve in the fridge until needed. To cook, deep-fry in rapeseed oil at 170°C for about 2 minutes
until golden brown. Rest in a warm place to make sure the egg is heated through. 4. P lace the crème fraîche in a bowl and whip until stiff. If you are making the dill oil, take 1 bunch of dill and 250ml of rapeseed oil. Blend in a liquidiser until smooth, pass through a J-cloth, season and place in a bottle. 5. T o pickle the fennel, cut the fennel bulb in half, cut out the core and discard, finely slice and place in a bowl - I use a mandoline for this. Heat the vinegar, peppercorns, fennel seeds, sugar and salt in a saucepan. Leave to cool then pour over the sliced fennel and leave to pickle for at least half an hour. This will keep for a few days when pickled. 6. T o serve, lay a couple of slices of salmon on a plate with a spoonful of the crème fraîche, a little pickled fennel and a cooked salmon scotch egg. Dress the plate with the dill oil if using.
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20 | T H E P A N T R Y
Perfect Yorkshire puddings These days, we eat Yorkshire puddings as part of a roast dinner, but they used to be eaten before the main meal to fill people up and make the meat stretch a little further. And many of us will recall the joy of having a leftover Yorkshire pudding after our Sunday dinner, drenched in golden syrup!
Ingredients
Method
Makes 12 puddings
1. P reheat the oven to 220°C/fan 200°C/gas 7. Set out a 12-hole bun tray.
3. P lace a tablespoon of fat in each hole of the bun tin. Put in the oven until smoking hot.
2. P lace the eggs and milk in a mixing bowl and whisk together. Sift in the flour and mix with a hand blender until you’ve got a smooth batter. Leave to stand for 10 minutes, then transfer to a jug, which will make it easier to pour into the tin.
4. S eason the batter immediately before you pour it into the smoking hot tray; this will stop the salt breaking down the egg and your puddings will rise really well.
3 large eggs 150ml full-fat milk 130g plain flour goose or duck fat, or beef dripping salt and freshly ground white pepper
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5. F ill each hole until nearly full. Bake for 15 minutes, until puffed up and golden, then eat hot and enjoy.
Extracted from Kirstie's Real Kitchen by Kirstie Allsopp, published by Hodder & Stoughton, £25. Photography by Rita Platts © Hodder & Stoughton 2017.
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Baked rice pudding with cider, apple and bramble compote and cinnamon doughnut This is one of my favourite nursery puddings, made into something special with a delicious compote and mini doughnuts. Rice pudding is my nine-year-old son Toby’s favourite dessert but unfortunately he still prefers Mr Ambrosia’s version to mine! The doughnuts are great on their own, and particularly good filled with jam or lemon curd. You could serve this family style as one big dish for the perfect finish to a Sunday lunch feast! The rice pudding is sweetened and enriched with condensed milk – a family recipe from my sous chef Kirk.
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2018 | 21
Ingredients Serves 4 — 6 For the rice pudding: 200g pudding or risotto rice 1 litre milk 50g sugar 100g condensed milk For the compote: 2 large Bramley apples 150g brambles/ blackberries 100g caster sugar 200ml dry cider
Method For the doughnuts: Ferment: 50g plain flour 65g milk 5g fresh or dried yeast 75g plain flour 15g caster sugar Pinch salt 25g butter (melted) ½ beaten egg Cinnamon sugar 100g caster sugar 1tsp ground cinnamon Rapeseed oil for deep-frying
1. T o make the rice pudding, place the milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the rice, sugar and condensed milk. Stir together, then place in a large ovenproof dish and bake in the oven for about one hour at 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4. 2. T o make the doughnuts, first you must make the ferment. Warm the milk and add the 5g of yeast and 50g of plain flour, leave this to ferment until nearly doubled in volume. 3. T o make the dough, place all the ingredients including the ferment in a food mixer with a dough hook and mix until a nice smooth dough is formed. You can mix this by hand if you wish. 4. L eave in a cling film-covered bowl in a warm place until doubled in volume. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead for a minute, then roll out the dough with a rolling pin until about 3cm thick. Cut out the required size – the smallest size round cutter gives you lovely little bite-size doughnuts. Deep-fry in fresh oil at 160°C until golden brown, remove and drain on kitchen paper, then roll in cinnamon sugar. 5. T o make the compote, core, peel and chop the apples and place in a saucepan with the cider and sugar. Cover and simmer until the apples start to break up, then add the brambles and cook for a further minute. Remove from the heat. This can be served warm or cold.
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E XPERIENCE FIRST FLOOR E XCLUSIVE PRIVATE DINING
THE HOTHAM ROOM & CH EF’S LIBR ARY Accommodating between six and ten people. Bespoke tasting menus, exclusive Afternoon Tea and ‘Dine with James’ demonstration experiences. Speak to a member of our team for more details, a guided tour or to make a reservation. To book call 01430 810 246 or email private@pipeandglass.co.uk
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2018 | 23
THE NEWS IN BRIEF A constellation of stars
Catch ‘em young
Beverley Food Festival
Northern Lights James is delighted to be able to join other chefs in the kitchen this year at the annual Northern Lights dinner at the Lowry Hotel in Salford. Taking place this year on Monday 1 October, the event, for 250 guests, raises funds for charity Hospitality Action, which provides support for those in need in the hospitality industry.
Nine whole years – that’s how long the Pipe and Glass has held its Michelin star. That’s enough stars for its own constellation. Here’s James with fellow chef Tommy Banks, from one of Yorkshire’s other Michelin-starred pub/restaurants, the wonderful Black Swan at Oldstead. Not sure who the other chap is, though – he was photobombing everyone!
Yorkshire through and through
Cooking alongside James will be Gary Usher, Lisa Goodwin-Allen, Ellis Barrie and Adam Reid. Last year’s event raised almost £23,000 – let’s hope the team can beat that total this year! For further information: hospitalityaction.org.uk A new generation of Michelin-starred chefs – that’s what James is hoping to encourage with the Yorkshire Chef Certificate, an initiative he developed with Hull College. Designed to provide relevant work placements to Level 3 Cookery students, the programme gives applicants the opportunity to learn from the best by working alongside James and other Michelin-starred chefs. The latest recipient was Level 3 Professional Cookery student Ellie Tuttle. Remember her name, she’s a rising star: she was also the first female winner of the Copper Saucepan Apprentice Chef of the Year competition at last year’s Beverley Food Festival, and has won gold and silver medals at Hotelympia, and a silver medal at last year’s WorldSkills regional finals. James says: “I created the Yorkshire Chef Certificate to help aspiring chefs and to encourage hospitality employers to engage more with colleges. The programme allows students to gain an extra layer of knowledge and work experience, in addition to what they receive at college.
James was delighted to join old friend and fellow Michelin-starred chef Andrew Pern at the latter’s latest venture, the Star Inn the Harbour at Whitby. The pair collaborated on a stunning menu on the evening of 22 February entitled ‘Two Chefs in the Kitchen’, a homage to the Two Chefs ale they created with the Great Yorkshire Brewery. They took it in turns to cook four courses packed with wonderful Yorkshire ingredients, kicking off with James’ Two Chefs ale-braised oxtail faggot, smoked mash and crispy pickled onion rings. Andrew then took over with a distinctly marine-themed ‘rockpool’ of North Sea shellfish with Lindisfarne oyster ‘ice’, salt ‘n’ vinegar seaweed and Whitby crab velouté. That was followed by a plate of Yorkshire duck (roast breast, confit leg ‘boulangère’ and crispy duck heart), celeriac purée, pickled blackberries and parkin crumb from James, and the evening was rounded off in style with a dish of Andrew’s from the Great British Menu in 2012: a celebration of Yorkshire rhubarb with a shot of rhubarb schnapps. If it all sounds too delicious for words and you’re kicking yourself for missing it, take comfort in the fact that James’ dishes can often be found on the Pipe and Glass menu!
The Pantry team Editors Editors at at large: large: James, James, Kate, Kate, Toby Toby and and Molly Molly Mackenzie Mackenzie Editor: Design and production: Helena Barnett www.graphicpower.co.uk Design and production: www.graphicpower.co.uk
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"Ellie has great skills and a real passion for pastry work and confectionery: I wish her success in her future career.”
Macmillan Bake Off
Keep an eye out for James at this year’s Beverley Food and Drink Festival on Sunday 7 October – he’ll be demonstrating favourite seasonal dishes. James says: “The Beverley Food and Drink Festival is close to our hearts at the Pipe and Glass – it’s our ‘home’ festival. We love to support it.”
Konotta Maldives Resort
Dalton Hall plant fair If you’ve been inspired by all the glorious garden goodies in this issue of The Pantry, why not pay a visit to the annual plant fair at Dalton Hall, which also brings an opportunity to see the Hall’s lovely and recently restored walled garden? This year, it’s on Sunday 1 July. James and Kate like to drop in there to pick up a few extras for the Pipe and Glass gardens.
Seaside rendezvous
A luxury resort in the coral island paradise of the Maldives – in the depths of January? Yes, please! That’s what James is heading for in early 2019 – he’ll be doing a series of guest chef dinners and (wait for it) beachside cookery demonstrations at Outrigger Hotels Konotta Maldives Resort. Sadly, he can’t take us all with him, but we’re pretty sure he’ll be Tweeting and Instagramming, so at least we can all see what we’re missing!
If you fancy a trip to the seaside A fantastic weekend of food and drink andissome great food, why not pay a on the way to the Yorkshire Coast visit to the brand new Scarborough 12th-13th May 2018 Food & Drink Festival in May? Saturday - 10am- 9pm | Sunday - 10am - 4pm
Newspapers The Yorkshire Post and A 2 day event of exhibiting, live cookery demonstrations The Scarborough News teamed from Michelin star chefs andhave musical entertainment throughout the weekend.Council up with Scarborough Borough to create a seafront kitchen hosted by Stephanie Moon and featuring guest appearance from chefs including James, Andrew Pern and Rob Green.
Pock of the crop
The annual ‘world’s biggest coffee morning’ in aid of Macmillan Cancer Support has become a red-letter day each autumn on every cake-lover’s calendar. Staff at safety experts Arco in Hull have gone a step further, and celebrate the day while raising much-needed cash for the charity by holding their own bake off. Channelling his inner Paul Hollywood, James judges their efforts – a task that makes him the envy of many as, he says, the standard is incredibly high. This year’s Macmillan Coffee Morning takes place on Friday 28 September – the flagship event has raised over £165m since the first one in 1990. If you want to get involved, take a look here: coffee.macmillan.org.uk
It all takes place on Scarborough’s West bookthe a stand please of contact Rosie PierToover weekend 12 and 13Ohana: May rosie.ohana@jpress.co.uk | 0113 414 6384 – for more: www.jpeventsnorth.co.uk/ scarborough/events/food-and-drink-show For more information visit our website jpeventsnorth.co.uk
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The youngsters joined James to see behind the scenes, including the Pipe and Glass gardens, where they learned about edible plants and how they can be used in the kitchen. The visit ended with the little ones getting their hands sticky during a bread-making session, after which each child took home.
Unless otherwise credited, words are by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew: www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
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Social butterflies:
It was home from home for young Molly Mackenzie, daughter of James and Kate, when her class from Pocklington School paid a visit to the Pipe and Glass.
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T H E PA N T RY
We've created lots of intriguing little nooks and crannies in our new gardens for you to explore - who knows what you might come across? Pick up a copy of our garden guide in the restaurant or bar - we hope you enjoy having a look round.
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