DAN'S PAPERS, July 11, 2008 Page 86 www.danshamptons.com
Dining and Nightlife
Annona By Tricia Rayburn In a showroom filled with some of the most luxurious cars in the world, including a $400,000 Rolls Royce Phantom, most people are like kids in a candy shop, with Mom’s age old “You can look, but don’t touch” philosophy enforced by the immaculately presented, and calculating sales representatives. And just like back in the day, sometimes the only way to get over not having what you want is indulging in something a bit more attainable, but just as thrilling — like a meal at Anonna, a veritable Phantom (or Lamborghini, or Bugatti, or whatever revs your engine most) of East End dining. Annona, appropriately named for the Roman goddess of the harvest, has been perched atop Manhattan Motorcars of the Hamptons since 2005. Its unconventional location might suggest a certain level of pretension that could potentially keep some uncertain diners at bay, but those who venture past the sleek entrance and take the elevator to the second floor immediately receive a warm welcome. As soon as we entered the lobby, we were greeted by several friendly staff members, and felt instantly comfortable in the soft lighting and natural-hued décor. The spacious dining room, illuminated by floor-to-ceiling windows and opening onto a seasonal veranda, offers the kind of relaxed atmosphere that can transform a perfectly fine, ordinary meal into a true experience — the kind that takes dinner from being the thing that you do to kill time before the night’s main event, to being the night’s main event. As it happens, there’s nothing ordinary about a meal at Annona. We started by sampling some popular signature cocktails; the Coco-Tini ($12), with pearl coconut-infused vodka, Cointreau, fresh lime and cranberry juice, and the Harvest Lemonade ($12),
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with crop cucumber-infused vodka, lemonade and watermelon over ice, were light, refreshing and perfect for summer. For appetizers, the 18-Month Prosciutto San Danielle ($14) was a perfect balance of salty and tender, followed by a creamy honeydew shooter. The Roasted Baby Beet Salad ($14) with baby spinach, goat cheese, walnuts and aged balsamic was crisp, tart and beautifully presented. Our first-course favorites were the Black Pepper Pappardelle ($18/$28), homemade ribbon pasta pressed with black pepper in a ragu bolognese, and the Rigatoncini ($16/$26), a southern Italian pork ragu that executive chef Pietro Bottero initially created almost accidentally from random ingredients he had at home. For the second course, the Seared Sea Scallops ($32) with sunchoke puree, morel mushrooms, asparagus and sweet garlic
foam were tender but meaty, and could serve as a satisfying red meat alternative. The Insalata di Manzo ($44), with wagyu skirt steak, grilled red onion, arugula, yellow pepper puree and salsa verde, was rich and flavorful. While it’s difficult not to clear every plate that comes your way, you’ll want to do your best to save room for dessert. The zingy homemade Lemon Gelato ($10) and multi-tiered Strawberry Shortcake ($10) are ideal summer picks, but the cooler-weather Mascarpone Cheesecake ($10) with maple glaze and crushed walnuts and coffee & doughnut ($10) with espresso espuma can certainly be enjoyed all year long. And chocolate lovers won’t be disappointed with the fresh-out-of-the-oven Molten Chocolate Cake ($10) with vanilla gelato. Annona prides itself on its ingredients being the best of the best. Its modern Italian dishes are comprised of North Fork produce, fine herbs, Italian oils and condiments, as well homemade pasta and bread. Daily specials keep an already impressive menu fresh and exciting. The exceptional results of this careful, thoughtful approach, combined with an attentive staff that focuses on making sure guests are comfortable (rather than serving them quickly just to get them out the door in preparation for the next party) afford diners a luxurious experience not easily found. Coincidentally, I shared this meal with my mom, who, years ago, repeated the “You can look, but don’t touch” refrain wherever we went. At Annona, we both enjoyed the opportunity to look, touch and savor, like two unaccompanied kids at Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. And as we left and cruised toward Sunrise Highway, bellies full and mouths happy, my perfectly simple, ordinary Toyota seemed to drive like never before.
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