Dan’s Papers December 10, 2010 danshamptons.com Page 45
NORTH FORK OVER THE BARREL
SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP
by Lenn Thompson
December 2010 News and Notes It may be a bit quieter in East End wine countries these days as winter sneaks up on us, but there are still a variety of interesting events, wines and other wine-related goings on worth mentioning this week. Judgment of Riverhead a Success for Local Producers A couple weeks ago, I had the distinct pleasure of joining a panel of local wine- and food-industry professionals as we judged some of Long Island’s top wines against those from California and France. After the 18 wines were tasted and the scores tallied, Pellegrini Vineyards 2007 Vintner’s Pride Chardonnay ($30) won the chardonnay flight and host Roanoke Vineyards tied for the top spot in the red flight with its 2007 Blend One, a not-yet-released cabernet sauvignon-dominated blend. The other highest-scoring red was a Detert Family 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Congratulations to the winners, you should be proud. Then again, we all knew that Long Island is making wines that can stand up to those from more famous “classic� regions, right? 8 Years of Wild Child Chardonnay There’s little doubt that Long Island’s best red wines can – and will – develop for many years if stored properly. But, few of us realize that local barrel fermented chardonnay can too, nearly as well. A dinner party thrown by Jared Skolnick and Tracy Ellen Kamens, proprietors of Mattituck’s Grand Cru Classes wine education center, centered on one barrel fermented chardonnay in particular, Channing Daughters Winery’s L’enfant Sauvage Chardonnay. We tasted eight vintages of winemaker Christopher Tracy’s entirely wild fermented chardonnay – 2001 through 2008 – and I really need to dig through my cellar to see which vintages I still have. Even the oldest wines showed life and some revealed some intriguing flavors. The 2001 in particular showed incredible complexity, balancing caramel and roasted apple notes with those of truffle and wild mushroom. My favorite of the lineup was the 2002, which was still showing impressive freshness, verve and focus. A fellow diner predicts at least another decade of cellar development, and I find it impossible to argue. My Restaurant of 2010: Luce-Hawkins I’m no restaurant critic, but I am an enthusiastic food lover and no local restaurant has impressed me more than Luce-Hawkins at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport, where chef Keith Luce has created something that every local wine and food lover should experience. From a fresh-ground hamburger with homemade Velveeta cheese to the should-be-illegal-it’s-so-addicting Fever Dog which combines local polish sausage with slow-cooked pork belly, sauerkraut, pickles, fries and a Scotch egg on a bun, to his elegant and often Asian-inspired take on local seafood and produce, Luce has something for every appetite (and budget). Plus, he and director-sommelier Michael Kaminski have built up what is probably the best local wine list on the North Fork. They’ve embraced the local wine community fully – and the community has embraced them right back.
with Maria Tennariello
SHOPPING GREENPORT: The Sirens’ Song Gallery, 516 Main St., 631477-1021, presents the works of established artists who work in the graphic arts field. This season there are many fine examples of etchings, monotypes, woodcut and linocut prints, as well as small paintings and sculpture perfect for gift giving or personal collecting. You step in the door and are lured by the lovely offerings of very sought-after artist-created ornaments, usable art, and cards, and yield to the temptation of purchasing them. Miche Bacher Sacred Sweets, 130 Front St.,
631-477-6762, is a new design studio, tasting room and retail shop that has recently opened in downtown Greenport. The custom confection studio creates the most divine handcrafted cakes, chocolates, cookies, pastries, and candy. They also create beautifully packaged fresh chocolates and confections for weddings and holiday gift giving, working collaboratively with you to create confections that express your aesthetic and bring your dreams to your guests’ mouths. Products as well as presentation are very important to Scared Sweets. They strive to make each gift package special and worth keeping, whether it is a lacquered box or a hand-chosen ribbon. Stop by and choose from a great selection of cookies, chocolates, cupcakes and more. Consultations are available by appointment. Shop online also at: Harbor Knoll Bed & Breakfast, 424 Fourth St., 631-477-2352, reminiscent of lovely British country homes is situated on the beautiful Peconic Bay. This lovely and romantic getaway features fresh sea air, a private beach and dock and views of Shelter Island in a relaxed, warm and welcoming environment. Many consider it the perfect spot for weddings and other festive occasions. For more Shop ‘til, please go to page 37.
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Tweeds Restaurant & Buffalo bar Serves the finest of local food specialties and wines representing the best Long Island vineyards
1330040
www.danshamptons.com
Serving Lunch and Dinner Daily
17 East Main Street • Riverhead NY
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www.danshamptons.com