DAN'S PAPERS, November 20, 2009 Page 43 www.danshamptons.com
Food / Dining
A Toast to Thanksgiving Brining, a seasoned liquid process used for chickens and turkeys before roasting, is decidedly a must to insure a moist bird. Brining is a simple solution of basically water, salt and sugar, to which some chefs will add other flavorings such as herbs and citrus juices. For brining it’s best to keep the bird to no more than 12 -14 pounds. Place the turkey in a large container, or doubled plastic garbage bags with the solution overnight in the refrigerator. This undoubtedly may take up a whole refrigerator shelf so it’s worth taking the time to organize your fridge by coordinating and removing any unnecessary items. When ready to roast your turkey, frequent basting is another way to achieve tender meat that is moist and cooked through. Crisp skin will happen in the course of roasting. Since the rear of the oven is always hotter place the roasting pan with the legs pointing to the back of the oven. An appropriate oven temperature for roasting turkeys is 325 degrees. Then roast the bird until an instant thermometer inserted into the inner thigh without touching the bone registers 165 degrees. Forget the Department of Agriculture suggestion of roasting fowl to 185 degrees. By that time the bird will be as dry as the bones that shape it. In addition to brining and timing the best advice I can give is to purchase a fresh, not frozen bird. Tests have proved that even though a frozen commercial turkey was not overcooked, it was tasteless. Locally grown heritage turkeys are available at Art Ludlow’s turkey farm in Bridgehampton and North Sea Farm in Southampton. Just remember to lovingly baste and tend your beautifully burnished bird. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Simple Art of Cooking Silvia Lehrer
BRINED/ROAST TURKEY WITH LEMON AND FRSH HERBS Fresh locally grown turkeys must be ordered well in advance. Yield: Serves 10-12 To brine the turkey 2 quarts fresh cold tap water 1/2 cup kosher salt 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup orange juice 1/4 cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper For the turkey 1 12- 14 pound prepared fresh turkey 1 large garlic clove, halved 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup mixed fresh herbs, sage, rosemary and thyme 1 large onion, quartered Herb branches Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For a natural sauce 2 shallots, finely chopped 1/3 cup Madeira or dry red wine 2 cups chicken stock 1. Pour 1 quart water into a saucepan large enough to hold the turkey and add remaining brine ingredients. Bring to a boil, add remaining 1 quart water and let chill completely.
paper towels. Tuck back wing tips and truss the turkey so it will cook evenly. Place the turkey in doubled large garbage bags and pour in the cooled brine. Tie the bag tightly and put into the refrigerator. Turn the brined turkey several times in the refrigerator to distribute the seasoned liquid. If necessary get another pair of hands to help. 3. Next day remove brined turkey from the refrigerator and put into a clean sink. Open the bag and pour the liquid down the drain. Rinse the turkey well and dry inside and out with paper towel. Massage the turkey with the garlic cloves, then with lemon juice and herbs. Stuff the cavity with the quartered onion and herb branches. Place turkey on a rack in a roasting pan and season with salt and pepper Preheat oven to 325 F.
2. Rinse the turkey inside and out and pat dry with
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