Dan's Papers Nov. 14, 2008

Page 46

DAN'S PAPERS, November 14, 2008 Page 45 www.danshamptons.com

Simple Art of Cooking Silvia Lehrer

Dining and Nightlife

Thanksgiving Recipes, Starting with the Sweets Thanksgiving is everybody’s holiday, yet most folk I know prefer not to break with tradition. The festive meal will no doubt begin with a soup made with pumpkin or butternut squash, and there’s the turkey in its many guises, brined or not, roasted or deep fried, or, for the truly adventurous, and if weather permits – barbecued. There will be side dishes of Brussels sprouts, broccoli, roasted root vegetables or root vegetable purees, cranberry concoctions, sweet potato pies and a variety of sweet desserts. With all those mouths to feed, emotions sway from frantic to frenetic. Time to make a game plan. While I do not advocate freezing as a rule, much can be done ahead. Fully prepared soups and pastry dough can be successfully frozen and defrosted overnight in the refrigerator, cranberry sauce seems to stay fresh forever – and certainly up to a week ahead. Fully baked desserts are fine refrigerated up to a day ahead. Vegetable gratins and most stuffing can be prepared a couple of days ahead and baked before serving. The table is set, the wines selected and that pretty much leaves cooking the turkey on Turkey Day. PEAR AND SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE Serves 8-10 3 cups water 1/2 cup sugar 2 cinnamon sticks 4 medium-ripe Bartlett or anjou pears Juice of 1 lemon 4 pounds sweet potatoes, scrubbed and peeled 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup reserved pear syrup 1. Place water in a large saucepan with the sugar and stir to dissolve sugar over heat. Bring to the boil, add cinnamon sticks, then cook at a steady simmer for 15-20 minutes until a light syrup forms. 2. Peel, core and halve the pears. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle with lemon juice. Put in the pear halves, cover with a square of cheesecloth or clean kitchen towel to prevent the pears from darkening. Cover pan tightly and poach gently for 10-15 minutes or until tender when tested with a toothpick. Remove pears with slotted spoon and set aside. Reduce pear liquid over high heat to 1/2 cup. Discard cinnamon sticks. Can be done ahead to this point. Refrigerate, covered as necessary. 3. Cook potatoes in four quarts boiling salted water until tender, about 30-40 minutes. Drain, cool and peel. Halve potatoes lengthwise. In a buttered, serving baking dish, arrange alternating potato and pear halves, cut side down. Pour over melted butter and season with cinnamon and nutmeg. If prepared ahead, refrigerate covered. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Before baking, mix maple syrup with reduced pear syrup and drizzle over top. Bake in preheated oven for 25-30 minutes and serve. CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING WITH SUN-DRIED CHERRIES Serves 6-8 1/2 cup sun-dried cherries or cranberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch loaf pan or 1 1/2 quart soufflé dish and dust with breadcrumbs. Set aside. 1. Macerate cherries or cranberries in Bandy or rum for 20-30 minutes. Place the bread cubes in a single layer on a sheet pan and lightly toast the cubes in oven for 3-4 minutes. 2. In a heavy saucepan, combine the chocolate and milk and warm over moderate heat, without stirring, until chocolate is partially melted, about four minutes. Remove from heat and stir until smooth. 3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar for several minutes until thick (can whip with electric beaters). Add vanilla and stir to mix. Gradually whisk in the melted chocolate and fold in the bread cubes, dried cherries or cranberries and any remaining liqueur. Transfer to prepared pan and allow mixture to sit for an hour or until bread soaks up the mixture. 4. Cover baking dish tightly with foil, and bake in preheated oven for 45 minutes or until pudding is set and still a bit wobbly in the center. Let cool for 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with a dollop of créme fraiche or whipped cream.

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1/4 cup Brandy or dark rum 4 cups cubed bread, preferably egg-based, such as challah or brioche 8 ounces imported semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 2 cups half and half 3 eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla Créme fraiche of freshly whipped cream for garnish

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