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food & dining
October 25, 2013 Page 55
Red & White Clam Chowda, Served Hot By silvia lehrer
On a sunny October day the Montauk Green was wall-towall people lining up for a taste of the 32nd annual clam chowder contest. Judges were given a choice of Manhattan (red) or New England (white). Most of us preferred to taste white but somehow I sided with the red contingent. I also met Laura Luciano, who has an impressive blog, Outeastfoodie.com. Sally Krusch, former market researcher and volunteer, along with Laraine Creegan, Chamber of Commerce director and Pat Shea, Chamber event coordinator arranged the event. Judges were given personalized sheets with coordinating chowder numbers and four points to judge by appearance, body, balance and taste. All nine judges were local foodies as well. To alternate tastings, bottled water was available, along with ale and white wine, supplied by Montauk residents. First prize winners were Solé East, white, and John Pancake House’s red. Laura and I both picked the winning red. Only two whites were offered to us, and we liked one of them very much, Gosman’s, which won second place. They’re gone for the season and so is their recipe. Solé East, whose recipe wins year after year, is a restaurant secret, but owner David Ceva, who prepares the chowder himself, shared his use of several varieties of clams, a basic roux and their own clam stock. And Joel Velentin, chef of Tre Bella, shared his third place white recipe. These recipes are my adaptations
1 dozen chowder clams, scrubbed well Reserved clam juice 1 1/2 pounds chefs potatoes, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium Spanish onion, finely chopped 2 whole carrots, peeled, sliced and diced 4 stalks celery, rinsed, trimmed and diced 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 pound, 12 ounce can plum tomatoes, crushed 4 ounce can tomato purée Salt and pepper to taste
1 dozen little neck clams, scrubbed well 4 slices bacon, cut into pieces 3 stalks celery. rinsed, trimmed and cut into 1/2inch dice 1 Spanish onion, finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped 1/2 cup all purpose flour 1 quart reserved clam broth 1 quart heavy cream 4 medium chefs or Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped 1/2 teaspoon celery salt Salt and pepper to taste
1. Place the clams in the freezer for 15 minutes to make them easier to shuck, or have fishmonger shuck clams, saving the juice. Strain juice through a cheesecloth and set aside with shucked clams. 2. Parboil potatoes in a saucepan for 4 to 5 minutes, strain and reserve. 3. Heat oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Stir and sauté onion about 2 to 3 minutes until translucent, then add the carrots, celery and garlic and sauté, stirring for 3 to 4 minutes longer. Crush the canned tomatoes by hand and add, with juice and the tomato purée, to the vegetables. Bring to a boil over medium high heat and add the blanched potatoes. Season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 16 to 18 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Turn off heat and add the clams and reserved juice. Let stand covered for 5 minutes to cook the clams off heat. Clams should be tender and briny. Serve hot.
1. Place clams in a 4 to 5 quart saucepan with 1 1/2 quarts fresh water, cover and bring to the edge of boil. Reduce heat, simmer clams until they open. With a slotted spoon transfer the clams to a large colander over a bowl to reserve the clam broth. Return broth to the saucepan and cook over medium-high heat and reduce to about 4–4 1/2 cups, strain and reserve. Scoop meat from the clamshells, discarding shells. Chop the clams coarsely and reserve. 2. Rinse and dry the pot the clams cooked in and brown the bacon in the pan until crispy. Drain the oil and add the celery, onion and garlic. Stir to mix and cook until ingredients are lightly browned. Add flour and stir over low heat for two minutes to make a roux, then stir in the clam juice and heavy cream. Add the potatoes and seasonings and simmer over medium low heat for about 50 minutes to an hour, stirring frequently, until potatoes are tender. Serve hot.
A Guide to Local Favorites southampton and hampton bays 75 MAIN RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE Italian/American $$$ Executive chef Mark Militello. Open daily, 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Dinner 4:30 p.m.–midnight, 75 Main Street, Southampton. 631-283-7575, 75main.com. NAMMOS Greek $$$ Authentic Greek Cuisine. Open 7 days, Fresh fish flown in daily. Featuring 2010 Greece’s Chef of the year Emmanouil Aslanoglou. Prix Fixe all day four courses $34. Reservations. 136 Main Street, Southampton 631-287-5500.
east hampton RACE LANE Local Cuisine $$$ Sourcing fresh produce for new spring menu. Innovation and a touch of multicultural make it a special experience. Open all week from 5 p.m., $33 price fix available Monday– Thursday until 6:30, Friday and Saturday until 6 p.m. Outdoor bar and patio open. 31 Race Lane, East Hampton. 631-324-5022, racelanerestaurant.com.
bridgehampton and sag harbor BOBBY VAN’S Steak and Fish $$$ Steakhouse classics and fresh fish. Open 363 days: lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Open Mon–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Sat. 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Main St., Bridgehampton. 631-537-0590, bobbyvans.com. HAMPTON COFFEE COMPANY Espresso Bar, Bakery, Cafe & Coffee Roastery $ A Dan’s Papers “Best of the Best!” Hand-roasted coffee, real
TRE BELLA’S NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER Serves 6 to 8
JOHN’S PANCAKE HOUSE MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER Secret is to add the clams with their broth when chowder is completely cooked so clams don’t overcook. Serves 8 to 10
baristas, muffins and bagels, egg sandwiches, a Mexican grill and more. Open 6 a.m.–8 p.m. daily, year-round. Locations in Water Mill next to The Green Thumb farmstand and in Westhampton Beach across from Village Hall. Now in Southampton next to BMW and anywhere with Mercedes Mobile Espresso Unit for events! 631-726COFE or go to Twitter and Facebook. hamptoncoffeecompany.com.
DINING OUT KEY: Price Range Local Wine Kid-Friendly
631-722-3292; 1065 Franklinville Rd., Laurel. 631-298-3262, elbowroomli.com.
For complete restaurant listings and more dining information, visit DansPapers.com
MJ DOWLING’S STEAK HOUSE AND TAVERN American $$ Great selection of American Fare in a friendly pub atmosphere. Draft beers. Family owned and operated. Game room—Pool Table. 3360 Noyac Road, Sag Harbor. 631-537-3300. OLD STOVE PUB American $$$ A Hamptons classic since 1969. Perfectly charred steaks at the oldest stove in the Hamptons. Open 7 Days, Saturday and Sunday noon–3 p.m., prix fixe Sunday–Thursday four courses $29. Live piano Friday and Saturday. Reservations 3516 Montauk Highway, Sagaponack. 631-537-3300. PIERRE’S Casual French $$$ Euro-chic but casual French restaurant and bar. Late dinner and bar on weekdays. Open 7 days. Brunch Fri.–Sun., 10 a.m.–5 p.m. 2468 Main Street, Bridgehampton. 631-537-5110, pierresbridgehampton.com.
north fork CLIFF’S ELBOW ROOM Steak and Seafood $$ The best aged and marinated steak, freshest seafood and local wines, in a casual, warm atmosphere. Lunch and dinner. Two locations: 1549 Main Road, Jamesport,
NOAH’S Seafood $$$ Seafood-inspired small plates with a nod to local producers. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. On Friday and Saturday, The Lounge @ Noah’s serves a late night small bites menu and specialty cocktails with a DJ until 2 a.m. Outdoor dining available. 136 Front Street, Greenport. 631-477-6720, chefnoahschwartz.com.
riverhead, westhampton THE ALL STAR All American $$ Premiere bowling, sports bar and entertainment venue. This industrial chic-inspired facility boasts 22 state-of-theart bowling lanes, VIP room with six private lanes, vortex bar with 12 inverted beer taps. 96 Main Road, Riverhead, 631-998-3565, theallstar.com. Buoy One Seafood & Steak $$ Offering the freshest fish and finest steaks, specials, Eat in or Take out. Call to inquire about our Buoy One Clam Bake. 62 Montauk Hwy., Westhampton 631-998-3808 & 1175 W. Main Street, Riverhead 631-208-9737, buoyone.com. Also in Huntington! TWEED’S Continental $$ Located in historic Riverhead, Tweed’s Restaurant & Buffalo Bar in the J.J. Sullivan Hotel serves the finest local food specialties and wines representing the best L.I. vineyards. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner. 17 E. Main St. 631-208-3151, tweedsrestaurant.com. Check out DansPapers.com for more listings and events.