DAN'S PAPERS, September 4, 2009 Page 93 www.danshamptons.com
North Fork WineGuide The Old Mill Inn Offers Beautiful Dining By Susan M. Galardi Old Mill Inn is a historic, former grist mill built in 1820 on the Mattituck Inlet. But most people know the place as a beautiful dining spot known for its fresh local food from farm and sea, that you can approach by land or water, docking your boat right at the outdoor dining deck. In 2006, the restaurant changed hands when Barbara Pepe, Bia Lowe, Greta Van Susteren and Elaine Lafferty bought it, and continued the tradition of an inn on the water. The spot doesn’t feel like the Hamptons. It doesn’t even feel like the North Fork. To us, it felt like the serene, quiet restaurants in Chincoteague. Sitting out on the deck, perched above the water, we heard only the sounds of the resident osprey whistling and a few ducks quacking. This is a vacation from your vacation. This year, the owners brought on a new chef, John Nordin, from Yale, who is having a good time with the super fresh local ingredients – a must at the Old Mill, which considers itself a slow food restaurant. (It is also one of the only certified “green” restaurants on the North Fork.) The lobster comes in fresh from a purveyor across the inlet. The corn is from Harbes – arguably the best on the North Fork. The establishment’s specialty, not surprisingly, is fish – particularly it’s raw bar, daily specials, and some of the best New England clam chowder I’ve had this season. The watchwords for The Old Mill are just that: fresh and simple. The best things on the menu keep within that mission. Soups, salads and small plates, range from $5 for soup to $24 for a dozen oysters, and also include Moules Frites, fried calamari, and the popular raw shellfish. We started with the award-winning clam chowder. It arrived at the table along with a full, fresh bouquet that wafted from the bowl. It had a rich
color and apetizing consistency – a light sauce rather than the pasty white flour/milk concoction – with chunks of smooth potato, bits of smoked bacon, slivers of celery, a hint of sherry, and plenty of chopped clams. Just delicious. The Grilled Freshwater Prawn appetizer was another good choice. Four firm, juicy prawns came on a skewer, shining with a sweet/hot Asian chili glaze. Alongside was a farm fresh greens salad with raspberry vinaigrette that tasted like the berries were fresh picked. Nice combo. Main courses at the Old Mill range from $14 for the Black Angus Burger, to pastas in the mid $20 range, to rib eye, filet mignon and seafood fra diavolo in the low $30s – pretty reasonable for this unique option for waterfront dining. For main courses we tried two specials. The pan seared scallops were plentiful and perfect, lazing atop a skim of green chili beurre blanc sauce. There was just enough chili to make it interesting, without overpowering the delicate scallops. They were served with an ample, round polenta cake infused with flavor from sun dried tomatoes. The entire cake was fried, not necessary, in my opinion, and topped with most delicate spinach, barely wilted and dressed with garlic and oil. Another special was broiled flounder. I know I know. Broiled flounder. This simple dish has been abused by every hotel chain in the world. But when you’re faced with a ridiculously fresh, snow-white filet, sprinkled with paprika and broiled with butter, life doesn’t get much better. This was an enormous piece of fish – flaky, moist and toothsome. It was served with sticky
jasmine rice, and atop sliced shitake mushrooms sautéed with chopped bok choy – that combination tasted much more rich than its simple, lowcal ingredients implied. There’s also a very good kids’ menu. I find it annoying when restaurants drop the ball on quality for children’s fare. This was not the case here with the chicken fingers and fries. The report from the young diner at our table was, “The breading is crunchy. The meat is usually rough, hard and dry. This is soft and juicy.” I’d put these on the menu as an appetizer. Desserts were all about cake – we ordered a tall slice of the red velvet skyscraper, moist, not too sweet and with a cream cheese frosting. It was $10, billed as a “Dessert for Two!” I’d say it could go four ways with no complaints. Wines by the glass, a small but good international selection, ranged from $7-11.00, and wines by the bottle followed suit. The restaurant is open until its New Year’s bash – worth a trip there to experience it in the winter. I can imagine it is spectacular. But right now is the best time to go. Every Wednesday and Sunday night through September, the Old Mill offers a one-hour cruise down the inlet to the Sound, just in time for sunset, for $20. Those who opt to take the cruise can also take advantage of a $30 Prix Fixe that includes soup or salad, a main course from the regular menu, dessert, coffee or tea. The Old Mill Inn: 5775 West Mill Road, Mattituck, North Fork. 631-298-8080. Open for lunch (noon-4) and dinner Wednesday through Monday (5-9, till 10 on Saturdays).
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