DAN'S PAPERS, August 29, 2008 Page 97 www.danshamptons.com
Letter
(continued from page 95)
Michelle Danzer
become one of Bridge Street’s classics. Regulars will be happy to find many specialty items as well as fresh produce, beer and packaged goods with an emphasis on organic products (even the plastic bags they put groceries in are biodegradable). Fresh meats (hormone and antibiotic free) and fish (often local) are offered along with cured and smoked versions. Cheeses, from Artisanal, are sold ripe and ready to eat. Try the Langres, a cow’s milk from France, if it’s available. It will run from the rind if left at room temperature and turned upside down on a plate. Blue Duck Bakery delivers local bread six days a week (the market is closed Wednesdays), and those with a sweet tooth will delight in the gelatos, sorbets, cupcakes and even madeto-order cotton candy in a rainbow of flavors. Housemade staples include Ann’s wonderfully flavorful lentil salad with carrots, a flank steak salad with greens and a sherry vinaigrette, roasted beets, lobster salad and cold sesame soba noodles. A salad made with a grain called faro is delicious and toothy with sundried tomatoes and bits of arugula. Made to order lunches and dinners are offered daily, often including Kobe beef burgers, lobster rolls and great fried chicken. But this writer’s personal favorite is Matthew’s Long Island duckling. It is amazingly succulent and a bargain at $21.99 (easily serves three to four). I recently stopped by and asked Matthew how he achieved this effect. His secret is curing the bird overnight in a mix of Szechwan peppercorns, kosher
Ann Redding and Matthew Danzer, owners of Reddings Market
salt and sugar, then roasting it for about one hour in a convection oven in a savory meringue of egg whites and sherry. After resting for four hours in the cooler it goes for a quick dip in the fryer to crisp the skin and seal in juices. Matthew will also bone the duck for you if you wish. It is also cooked a bit on the rare side, so plan to reheat in a covered pan in the oven if you like it more well done. Just remember to order in the morning for the evening as this dish takes some time to create. One of the pleasures of living in a small community like Shelter Island is being able to shop for great food and fine wine without having to get back in your car. Across from Reddings you’ll find Shelter Island
Wines & Spirits, owned by Bill Schmitz. The shop, where you’ll find either Bill or Dawn LoBue behind the counter, offers a good selection of foreign and domestic wines – you’ll even find some famous California Cabs such as Dominus, which is owned by the same person that owns Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux (2005 Dominus is $150) – but most labels are in the $20-30 range. I asked Matthew and Ann what they would pair with their duck from Bill’s shop, and they recommend the Long Island-produced 2003 Lieb Estate Merlot (a very good buy at $24 with some nice age on it). The wine has firm tannins and lots of dark fruit, a great compliment to the duck. Bill suggested a wine from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the 2005 Benton Lane Pii not Noir ($25 and 92 points from Wine Spectator), a wellextracted wine with delightful hints of plum and delicate spices. My pick is the 2006 Trimbach Gewurztraminer ($21). The wine’s bright acidity and spice are excellent foils for the rich game. Back at Reddings, I ask Ann and Matthew, who live a short distance from the market – “ we can actually see it out our windows!” – what their plans are for fall after their first busy summer season. They are playing it by ear as far as winter hours are concerned, but for now they are looking forward to the change of seasons. Matthew is excited about offering artisanal pizzas, duck confit and chicken pot pies. He also plans to make pate en croute for the holidays. And what is Ann looking forward to? Without a moment’s hesitation she answers, “sleep!”
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