DAN'S PAPERS, July 4, 2008 Page 192 www.danshamptons.com
Shelter Island
Vine Street 41 South Ferry Road Shelter Island, NY 631-749-3210
Beth Troy
By Susan Galardi There’s a strategy among some food writers reviewing restaurants in the local community: If the food’s not good, talk about the decor and the service. I will not be talking about decor or service in this review of the Vine Street Café (although both were lovely). As a foodie, I have my own litmus test for restaurants. Sure, when you’re sitting there having your courses, which are never inexpensive on the East End, and chatting with a friend, it’s easy to comment that the food is, “kind of interesting,” as you move it around on your plate. No one wants to admit to a bad dining experience when you’re finally at a table being served. But the morning after brings the soul searching question: “Would I ever go back to that restaurant?” I didn’t ask myself that the day after dining at Vine Street. Instead, I strategized, “How soon can I get back there to have that whole roasted branzino again?” Two weeks after my visit, I can still summon the flavors of that delicate sea bass, infused with rosemary, served atop braised, almost carmelized, fennel – god help me! This was one of many dishes we sampled at Vine Street filled with flavors that dance in the mouth – from the crispy soft shelled crab with a coating of spices nodding to classic, spicy crab seasoning, served with an organic canteloupe gazpacho sauce, to the strawberry shortcake that evoked Norman Rockwell Americana. I could almost hear an Aaron Copland symphony as I ate. It’s the Central Casting
version of the dessert, exactly what you hope for: a barely sweet, crumbly, buttery cake – almost a shortbread – perfect strawberries in a simple sauce made from perfect strawberries, topped with freshly whipped cream. Now in its sixth year on Shelter Island, Vine Street is the labor of love of Lisa and Terry Harwood, who met at New York’s Union Square Cafe. Lisa is a Culinary Arts Institute trained chef who did her externship in pastries at Lutece. Terry came up through the ranks of the business, eschewing formal education for time at the stove, working
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN A DAY OF ADVENTURE WAKEBOARD D • WATERSKII • WAKESURFF WAKESKATE E • KNEEBOARD D • TUBE E Private Instruction with Professional Coaches Locatedd in n Sagg Harbor
Ourr lessonss caterr too individualss andd groups.. Iff youu aree stilll learningg orr wouldd likee too progresss fuurtherr in n yourr wakeboarding, waterskiing...... orr justt wantt too havee a fun n dayy tubingg with h yourr m iss heree too helpp youu reach h thee nextt level!! familyy andd friends.. Ourr team
Globalboardingg LLC Sagg Harbor 1 537 7 8601 Off:: 631 m www.globalboarding.com
info@globalboarding.com
1143271
PROFESSIONAL COACHES • LICENSED CAPTAINS FULLY INSURED • PACKAGES AVAILABLE
in seafood restaurants in Chattanooga, before doing stints in New York and traveling to Tunisa and Italy to cook. The two produce dishes that are delicate and deliberate. It’s quickly apparent that every ingredient – down to the olive oil – has been carefully chosen. Much of this is a result of the owners’ refined palates and skill, and an obvious commitment to the highest quality. Terry is on top of the seafood and beef industry, spending a lot of time with purveyors to find the best choices on the market. The Black Angus strip steak with bordelaise was a case in point. The exquisite flavor and texture of the meat was graced by a silken sauce. If I wasn’t raised better, I’d have licked the plate. Same with the seafood. Quality all the way, from the velvety grilled scallop with summer succotash that popped with flavor, to the miso glazed salmon with perfect char marks and inspiring accompaniment of bok choy and mushrooms. It’s rare that a restaurant does everything well – meat, seafood, veggies – but Vine Street does. The beet salad, for example, was a spring song of texture, flavor and color. Vine Street is literally three minutes from the Shelter Island south ferry landing, but eons away from the South Fork insanity. The serene ferry ride gives way to a short drive on a verdant stretch of road, and there you are at the vine arbor. The decor is simply elegant. There are no paintings on the walls, just lovely, twiggy sconces. The food is clearly the focal point. Deservedly so. It holds up under scrutiny.