DAN'S PAPERS, June 20, 2008 Page 109 www.danshamptons.com
Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column A friend handed me a container and said, “I brought you bruschetta.” The mixture in the container had the classic tomato, garlic, basil mixture that most folk identify as bruschetta when spread over small crusty bread slices. Bruschetta – (correctly pronounced brusketta) – is a great treat as a snack or appetizer. It doesn’t matter what the topping is, the bread itself is the bruschetta. The Tuscan word for this snack, however, is fetta unta, or “oily slice.” When you fire up the grill this season, don’t miss the opportunity to grill large thick slices of country bread, then rub the grill marked slices, with a halved clove of garlic and drizzle with quality olive oil, as they do in Tuscany, for an unforgettable taste. A marvelous dish in its own right! In his classic The Fine Art of Italian Cooking Quadrangle, 1977, Giuliano Bugialli writes, “In Rome and southern Italy, it is called bruschetta. To compare the Roman and Tuscan ways of preparing it gives an insight into the way the Tuscans have of lightening their cooking. In Rome the bread is fried in the oil, while in Tuscany the bread is toasted over charcoal or wood, if possible. Then the oil is heated, not cooked, and poured over.” Crostini, on the other and, are Italian canapés. It is practical to prepare these little toasts by slicing narrow loaves of crusty Italian bread or baguette and toasting them in the oven. They can be prepared a day or two ahead and stored in a tin to get ready for the summer entertaining season ahead. FETTUNTA Fettunta meaning “oily slice” is the Tuscan version of garlic bread. Serves as many as you like. Cut large slices, 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, from a large Tuscan loaf 2 cloves garlic, cut in half lengthwise, for every four slices Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle over grilled bread Coarse (kosher) salt
1 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice or more to taste Freshly ground pepper to taste Crostini Solid chunk of Reggiano Parmigiano cheese 1. Drain beans and put into a large saucepan of fresh cold water to cover by at least 2-inches. Add sage leaves, garlic and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bring to the boil then adjust heat to medium and cook, with cover ajar, about 55-60 minutes or until beans are very tender. About 10 minutes before beans are done, add salt and stir to mix. Drain the beans over a bowl and reduce broth to add to the beans later. Mash beans on a board with a potato masher and return to bowl. Add reduced broth, remaining olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
lined with wax paper. To serve, pile into a napkinlined basket or top with a topping of your choice. WHITE BEAN AND GARLIC PUREE This delectable puree to spread on crackers or crostini can be prepared several days ahead of serving. Yield: about 8 ounces bean puree 1/2 pound Great Northern or Cannellini beans, soaked overnight 2-3 fresh sage leaves 1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole Coarse (kosher) salt to taste For the puree 6 large garlic cloves for roasting 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2. While beans are cooking preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put 6 cloves garlic in a foil wrapper, then place on shallow pan and roast for 30-40 minutes until garlic is tender. Remove from oven and when cool enough to handle, squeeze the softened garlic onto a dish and mash with a fork. Stir into the bean puree and taste to adjust seasoning. Prepare the mixture up to several days ahead and refrigerate in a suitable container until ready to serve. 3. Bring bean and garlic puree to room temperature if refrigerated, spread on crostini and shave thin slices of Parmigiano cheese over the top of each. Arrange on a platter and serve with a mix of Mediterranean olives if desired. Note: Additional toppings for crostini could include chiffonade of roasted peppers, chopped garlic, basil and olive oil. Another favorite is thin slices of mozzarella, julienne of fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes.
Prepare ashen hot coals or heat a gas grill to medium-high setting. 1. With long handled tongs, place the dry slices on a heated grill for 1 minute on each side, being careful not to burn them. Remove from heat to a platter and, holding on to the skin side, rub one-half clove garlic into the bread then drizzle with olive oil and a light sprinkle of salt. Serve at once for a delicious snack.
1 narrow Italian loaf or French baguette 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled and halved lengthwise Extra-virgin olive oil Coarse (kosher) salt (optional) To Bake: Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
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1. Spread bread slices on a cookie sheet one layer deep. Bake for 8-10 minutes until lightly golden and crisp. 2. While the toast is still warm but cool enough to handle, rub the cut surface of garlic over one side then drizzle with a bit of oil. Sprinkle on salt if desired. Eat warm or at room temperature.
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BRUSCHETTA OR CROSTINI Crostini are Italian canapés or small versions of bruschetta that can be served with a variety of toppings. Use narrow loaves of Italian bread or a French baguette and cut the bread into 1/4-inch slices.
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