signature dish milford’s
by David H. Heemann
One of Spokane’s oldest fish houses,
Hours:
Sunday - Monday 4 p.m. – 9 p.m. Tuesday – Thursday 5 p.m. - close (usually 9 p.m.) Friday – Saturday 5 p.m. - close (usually 10
Milford’s Fish House
Seafood Sauté – “Lisa”
Milford’s, has been serving Spokane since 1979. Located in an early 20th century historic building, the environment is somewhat retro and eclectic. Milford’s presents a simple traditional bar and short wine list that pairs well with the menu items. While the environment may be simple, and you would feel comfortable in shorts, the atmosphere created by the table settings, the wait staff and the menu result in an elegance that is perfect for dining out before a show. Besides, you have to love a place where the chef/owner (Jerry Young) walks out of the kitchen holding an uncooked golden trout, on its way to be introduced to the awaiting diners, but makes a few stops along the way to chat with other guests to ensure they are satisfied with their dining experience. The menu is an array of great seafood dishes; all prepared fresh and layered with flavors. You’ll find fired catfish and shrimp balls on the menu alongside halibut and trout. At first glance you may think this is a menu influenced by the Gulf Coast, but you’ll find Pacific Northwest and Asian flavors too; however, it is that Louisiana Gulf Coast flavor that reminds you why you’re at Milford’s - to order their Cajun style Seafood Sauté – “Lisa” ($28). Named after a former longtime employee, “Lisa,” the Seafood Sauté is a long-standing signature dish on an ever-changing menu. The seafood is quickly sautéed and then finished/poached in a butter-based sauce. This bountiful bowl of seafood is the perfect combination of Alaskan salmon, Columbia River steelhead, clams, prawns, calamari strips and, when in season, maybe even a little halibut. All of this is served to you in an oversized bowl; swimming in a decadent butter sauce and seasoned to order with a Cajun style blend from renowned Louisiana chef Paul Prudhomme. You can pick the level of Cajun influenced heat you want, ranging from one to five. I would recommend at least a three due to the richness of the sauce and depth of flavor with the seafood. I went with a three-and-a-half and found just enough background heat to be enjoyed, but the main ingredients still presented well. I would have no problem kicking it up to a full or four or even four-and-a-half. Unlike other seafood combination plates I’ve ordered elsewhere, Milford’s Seafood Sauté is prepared with the application of multiple cooking techniques – first sautéed with just the right heat and then the cooking is finished by poaching the seafood in the butter sauce as it makes its way to your table. This process results in each individual item perfectly cooked. The clams melt in your mouth, the calamari strips are tender, and the fish flakes exactly as it should into the buttery succulence. Be sure you have plenty of fresh bread on hand ready to soak up every last drop of the sauce; while served with rice, there will still be plenty of sauce to savor. The entrée comes with you choice of soup or salad. My server, Alex, recommended Milford’s version of Manhattan chowder. That should read a better version of Manhattan chowder; thicker than traditional Manhattan chowder and with a Louisiana personality, it was a perfect starter – if you’re sharing the Seafood Sauté, you will want order extra chowder. So the next time you’re in need of a hearty seafood feast, stop by Milford’s and experience all the richness and layers of flavor their Seafood Sauté – “Lisa” has to offer. You won’t be disappointed. Reservations are recommended. Milford’s Fish House is located at 719 N Monroe St., Spokane. (509) 326-7251, ww.milfordsfishhouse.com
Spokane CDA • September • 2013
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