Creative concept Jesper Lüders Nhallely Gustafsson Rasmus Brøndsted Stefan Autzen Contact Kristian Rise +45 35 27 75 00 kri@dkds.dk www.dkds.dk
Hair & make-up The Body Shop Mette Malta
Music Tomas Barfod
Models Diva Models Elite Models Scoop Models Unique Models 2 PM 1st Option
Choreographer Eshter Lee Wilkinson
Graphic Design Rasmus Brøndsted
GRADUATE SHOWSS10
New designers in action 9 of 86 newly graduated designers from The Danish Design School are taking over the catwalk on CFW S/S 2010 as a prelude to the school’s graduation show at Carlsberg 21.31. August 2009. This year’s graduating students offer a wide range of creative, humorously, conceptual design universes, where experiment and expression goes hand in hand with usability, quality and commercial potential. Right now a financial crisis is casting long shadows over most industries, and the fashion industry is no exception. But fortunately, in the middle of dejection, there is the recognition that crises also mean the end of habitual thinking and, in stead, possibilities for those who dare to think innovatively and untraditionally. In this scenery, designers are indispensable as inspirators, innovators, and enthusiastic collaborators. And this year’s graduating fashion designers are already well on their way. Several have asserted themselves in big international design competitions, e.g. as finalists in Mittelmoda in Italy and in the intereuropean Createurope The Fashion Design Award. In short, the new designers are already in action.
An Eclectic Rush Like sensitive seismographs, the nine new fashion designers from The Danish Design School stand out by being able to sense the small waves that will eventually become the great fashion quakes of tomorrow. Sustainability meets steam punk with a generous dash of sci-fi humour by being sent on an odyssey to the year 2030. A poetic X-ray vision of the body confirms the tendency to want to look behind the surfaces for something true. There is the nostalgic longing for the Chinese water towns revealing the emphasis on the personal story as a drive in contemporary fashion. Surrealism offers an inspiring universe, and confirms that art and fashion are soul mates more than ever. Just as with Poiret and the early Yves Saint Laurent, the exotic continues to play a crucial role as a source of inspiration in fashion – whether Maori warriors, Spanish toreadors, or circus characters with a strange affinity for pigs. The overall impression is that of an eclectic universe, that mirrors the trends in fashion by joining the historic with the futuristic, the exotic with the familiar, and the moral with the playful. Now, the new fashion designers are being catapulted into fashion space – ready to contribute to the future form of fashion. Get ready for quirky fur coats with a punk attitude, necklaces made from horses’ teeth, and sustainable space suits. It’s going to be a hell of a ride.
Ready, set, GO! Peter Bysted Rector The Danish Design School
Maria Mackinney-Valentin Trend researcher and Ph.D. Scholar The Danish Design School
Camilla Francesca Lastrina p. +45 2622 9656 e. Camilla@lastrina.dk
All creativity starts with some kind of fascination, and a desire to recreate the feelings and attractions that was originally connected to it. When I saw the movie Apocalypto in 2006, for the first time, it woke something in me. The fantastic universe contained a brutality and straightforwardness which, combined with the beauty and greatness, drew me to it and the desire to recreate and combine the contrast filled elements, with my own style and esthetics has grown ever since. The film itself is not present in the final outfits – but it has led me to my own inspiration. I took the elements from the movie, and found my own pictures, to express the same tension and contrasts. My collection focuses on the neck, as a symbol of the proud tribal element and my outfits move on the edge between the elegant/luxurious and the brutal/androgynous and the tension it creates gives strength to the collection in a contrast filled universe.
Photographer: Simon Birk
Nanna Isbrandt p. +45 4019 5092 e. nannaisbrandt@mail.dk
“Poetic Toreador� - Spanish icons in a Nordic light In my collection, the unpolished drama from Spanish bull fighting and flamenco tradition is intermingled with a Nordic white, poetic universe, where feminine romanticism is mixed with masculine power. The inspiration is taken from the flamenco dancers’ straight proud attitude and volume skirts. Tight legs, high waist and short decorated jackets constructed, so it drops forward have been taken from the traditional bull fighter costume. Everything is created in pure, white nuances. The poetry gets an edge when decoration, silver print and delicate materials are combined with unrefined denim, rope, and pure, white hides.
Photographer: Rasmus Steengaard
Kiki Yan Cao p. +45 2714 6017 e. Kikicao812@hotmail.com
My hometown – JianNan Watertown – sets the scene of my fashion tale. The serene watertown life is interrupted by herds of tourists and merchants. The so-called “traditional lifestyle” has been distorted, as everything labelled with “traditional” is just a modern marketing means used to cater to sightseers. In the transition from traditional to modern, the tranquil town is suffering from double torture, just like many other traditional cultures and handcrafts of China. Should it be changed along with the time, or just remain as it is now? This is a puzzle to many people and to me as well. The purpose of my design is to describe the status quo of JiangNan Watertown and my memory my hometown. These two points, just like the contrast between two forces, are used to reflect my hometown’s struggle between “modern” and “traditional”.
Photographer: Henrik Brus
Stine Ladefoged p. +45 2859 5312 e. stine_ladefoged@hotmail.com
In my final project, called ”Narcissisme is calling”, I’ve been inspired by postmodern influences, especially postmodern architecture and the typical postmodern human being, who wants to be in the center of attention. I’ve worked with the narcissistic features, where selfcenterness and the need to feed your own ego rules. I wanted to work with knitwear and make showpieces with sculptural expressions and with focus on the detailing and techniques. The detailing has come to life through both draping and experimenting with different techniques on the knitting machine. I’ve worked with combining different gauges, such as fine gauge and bulky gauge to get more variation in the volume and structure of the knit. I’ve used techniques as jacquard, short row knitting, fully fashion, rib and plating. For me knitwear is fascinating because you make your own material and you can shape the knit in 3 dimensional forms without sewing and cutting. You can decide the volume of the texture and the quality by mixing and matching different yarns and techniques.
Photographer: Lasse Walentin
Tobias Noe Harboe p. +45 2330 7464 e. tobias@reikall.com w. reikall.com
This collection: ‘ClangBoomSteam’, concerns sustainability. It is set on the backdrop of a peculiar tale: the adventure of six time traveling pioneers, passing from year 2030 to year 1799, in order to save the planet from environmental disaster, by steering the industrial revolution in a sustainable direction. This desperate action results in the creation of a strange parallel universe, where past and future merges in sustainable innovation, aesthetics and shapes. The style is inspired by historical and future pioneers of industry and science, their work wear and protection gear, and their great explorative spirit. All of which I like to celebrate, despite the tragic consequences some of this has brought. This is the ironical paradox. The idea behind the concept: to raise awareness about sustainability in an odd way, by creating an edgy sustainable collection, which hopefully makes you wonder where we are headed..? And to inspire, to take action now - before it’s too late.
Anne Sofie Madsen p. +45 2657 7525 e. sofie@statler-waldorf.dk
In traditional Maori art the most dominant, mythical motif is the “avianised man” or “bird-woman”. The most important visual art forms are plaiting, relief carving and tattoo. My idea in this collection was to combine (and confront) this with classic, European clothing - in order to express the contrasts and borders between what we see as primitive/civilianized, exotic/classic and barbaric/elegant. My idea was not to create bird suits or folk costumes and I decided not to use feathers in the garments and to “translate” the traditional materials of the Maori. I used shoelaces instead of flax strips and exchanged tattooed skin with leather applied on invisible tulle.
Photographer: sophie dreijer
Sara Robertsson p. +46 (0) 736 765326 e. sara.robertsson@gmail.com
I’ve named my project What lies beneath. I see the title as a reference to what hides under the surface; the cocoon, the flower bud and the root can be seen as symbols for what is not yet exposed, the power of life before it explodes and blooms. The thought of looking inside someone and seeing what hides there inside, to expose the inner or to expose the construction. As if an x-ray could expose your soul. But there is also a reference to what hides in the ground, that which is not new life, but used-up life, ashes to ashes, dust to dust… In this project I’m working with different types of decorations inspired mainly by pictures of different states in the lifecycle and anatomy of flowers. The pictures I’ve been inspired by contain both a frailness and a feeling of decay, but also colour strength, power and life. My main reason for wanting to design clothes is that I believe in the strength and the joy of beauty and that it is important to enhance this in our lives. The feeling I’ve wanted to attain in my collection is both a poetic and tactile feeling and also a contemporary one. I’ve wanted to work with the contrasts between the frail and the compact and heavy and also with the contrast between a straight silhouette and organic decorations and textile techniques.
Anne Marie Skjoldager e. contact@amskjoldager.com w. amskjoldager.com
One eye laughing, the other crying. ” (…)and if this play continued under the never-ending roaring of the orchestra and of the fans until the ever-opening gray future, accompanied by dying and newly rising applause of hands which actually are steam hammers ! maybe a young gallery visitor would hurry down the long stairs through all the aisles, would hurl himself into the circus arena, would call stop! through the sounds of the fanfares of the ever-adapting orchestra. “ Franz Kafka – On the Gallery Based on my personal interpretation of Franz Kafka’s text ”On the Gallery” from 1919, I have worked on a line of clothing that reflects the mood in the text. It is a line that includes elements from the circus world that Kafka describes. It also expresses the contradictions and absurdity of the circus life. My focus in this project has been to work with print, colour and shape. I combined these elements and made them work together as a unity. Each outfit has its unique print, which relates to the shape. Colours and expressions form a whole and bind the singular pieces together to an interrelated line.
Photographer: Brian Buchard
Julie Brøgger p. +45 2714 2887 e. juliebrogger@gmail.com w. juliebrogger.blogspot.com
This Lady was Once a Punk The 1989 tatler magazine cover with Vivienne Westwood imitating Margaret Thatcher and with the headline ”This Woman was Once a Punk” was the first inspiration for the theme of my collection. The cover pins the differences of two social groups in society, which inspired me to do a project with polar dynamics. The concept of my MA graduate collection is to create a new visual context with the references of the rough and rebellious ’Punk’ and the feminine and pristine ’Lady’. The combination of these two opposites has been the platform for a dress collection that feeds off the conflicts between the two in use of materials, shape and style. The result is a diverse collection with manipulated materials and dynamic silhouettes with a colour tone that under pins both the feminine and the rough.
Photographer: Louise Damgaard
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