Magic Haiti - 15th edition

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NOVEMBER 2012

BLOOMING WITH PERSONALITY:

JARDINS SUR MER YVETOT GOUIN

MODERN DAY STORYTELLER ROBENSON JOSEPH

THE HAITIAN GENIUS GOING TO MEET A BEAUTIFUL MIND

FRANKÉTIENNE



Editor’s Note Dear Readers,

The Holiday Season is fast approaching before you know it’s Thanksgiving. One of my favorite holidays. As you may know, I love eating turkey and began the menu selection back in October. A scrumptious one, I might add, and Haitianized. My guest list is a bit shorter this year yet the amount of food remains the same. I think that subconsciously, I did it purposefully. So that I can enjoy the Turkey for a few more days. Now that I have shared my Thanksgiving plans, let me be one of the first to welcome you to Haiti. The holiday season is a good time to be on this magical isle. As you flip the pages, you will meet in “Words in Print” one of Haiti’s most creative individuals, a writer, painter, philosopher, and so much more. And if you happen to meet him, he is likely to entertain you for hours. You will also meet other talented individuals, a composer/singer, a designer, a filmmaker, a dancer… You will discover eateries, lodges, the Mache Peyizan where you can purchase local produce, and so much more. Enjoy the read. I wish you a wonderful stay on this tropical isle, many of you may become enamored with its people and its beauty and Haiti might emerge as one of your favorite destinations. In this season of thanksgiving, I lift my glass of Rhum Barbancourt to you, and take this opportunity to let you know that we are honored to serve you, our readers and would also like to thank all of you for your kind words of encouragement. Let the magical warmth of our people guide, as you meander throughout the island!

Roxane Kerby


MAGIC HAITI

NOVEMBER 2012

Heartbeat

14 18 31

Spotlight Yvetot Gouin: Modern Day Storyteller

Words in Print Going to Meet a Beautiful Mind: Frankétienne

Heartbeat Jean René Delsoin Dancing to the Rhythm of his Heart

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LET’S TALK - ANN PALE

39

Culinary Innovators

Fab 5

Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Copy Editor Angela Galbreath

Jean René Delsoin: Dancing to the Rhythm of his Heart

31

8

Artmosphere The Haitian Genius: Making Clothes with Character

34 Gladys Louissaint, Transforming Everyday Items into Works of Art 22 36

Escapade Jardins sur Mer, Blooming with Personality

Contributors Maureen Boyer Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kristine Belizaire Christina Jean-Louis Kohl Threlkeld Ronide Pierre Louis Maya Berrouet Graphic Designers Clarens Courtois Rody Victor Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis Photographer Ludmillo D. Pierre Printed in Haiti by L’ IMPRIMEUR SA Publisher Le Nouvelliste +509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com

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11 Café Place St. Pierre so much more than a Piano Bar 28

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Hot Dates

Mache Peyizan Awaken your Palate with a Tour of Haiti By Christina Jean-Louis | Photos by Frederic Alexis

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s you travel to various locations around the world, it awakens your palate. The sweet aromas, subtle accents, vibrant flavors, and enticing textures of each community all come together to punctuate the memories you make during your experience. With that in mind, I’d like to welcome you to Mache Peyizan. Ruby red tomatoes, fresh invigorating mint leaves, sweet and juicy

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 3


peaches, a plethora of goods and bright smiles greet you as you make your way through what seems like your dream garden. Mache Peyizan, a local farmer’s market, literally fuels you with organically grown fresh fruits, vegetables, whole grains, nuts and other farm-processed

goods which spring from the soil of the numerous regions of Haiti. This open air bazaar, sponsored by the USAID Winner’s program in hopes of revitalizing local production, takes place at the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre every other Saturday. And has now expanded to include

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branch-off markets in PétionVille and Furcy. Mache Peyizan provides consumers the unique opportunity to nurture relationships with local farmers. You can buy fresh goods directly from the ones who planted them- the closest you can get to picking the fruits and vegetables yourself. It almost seems unreal, or reminiscent of a simpler time. In a country marked by its rich agricultural history, Mache Peyizan celebrates Haiti’s roots. Indeed, before 1950, Haiti produced more than 80% of its own food. The tradition of the small farmer konbits, or associations of rural farmers, dates back centuries. Today they still exist. One such group is the Asosyasyon Chanpyon, through which local farmers pool resources, employ modern agricultural practices, and have consented in their statutes to comply with property and production laws. The chapters of these associations elect representatives to send to the fair in the Capital. These farmers travel from far and wide to bring the finest from their weekly harvest, or as one local farmer puts it “the best of the best!” From the cool mountain tops of Kenscoff where juicy pears, peaches, and raspberries are abundant to La Plaine where

bananas surprise with rich flavor, and avocados and peanuts are plentiful, to the l’Artibonite valley known for their wholesome grains, to the North where cashews seem to fall from the sky – each booth is compartmented by region. Take a nutritious tour of our country in just one afternoon. The friendly merchants freely share stories of their home village while they invite you to taste the delicious crops on display. “An energetic vendor from Mirabalais welcomed me to sample her mangos. They are the most delicious mangos I have ever tasted,” exclaims a consumer standing next to me. Mache Peyizan is reflective of the country’s culture and economy as currently over 60% of employment is sprouted from local agriculture in Haiti. Agricultural development serves as an important pillar in the future of this island nation. As we strive to follow the blueprints of our notso-distant prosperous agricultural past we encourage you to buy locally not only because its healthier, tastier, , and more costeffective – consuming locally enriches the nation’s economy. This family-friendly open air market place brings fresh locally grown goods directly to your palms in a pleasant inviting environment. Close yours eyes and imagine an avenue brimming with fresh fruits and vegetables, and infused with exotic flavors or just visit Mache Peyizan and make it a reality. For home or restaurant deliveries please contact 3702 - 8893 For more information on the USAID Winner program and how you can support our local farmers please visit: www.winnerhaiti.com


Hot Dates

D E0 1C2 2

6, 7, 8 & 9

in Jacmel

By Taina Mayard | Photo by Safi Magloire

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s the year 2012 wanes, the southern city of Jacmel is gushing even more than usual with art, art, and more art. Art to view and art to collect. Art to admire and art to inspire. The Festival de l’Amitié (FA) is the first event of its kind in the city of Jacmel. It brings together creative minds using imaginative methods and mediums with something for everyone. The first aspect of the event is all about learning. Multidisciplinary art workshops are taking place in October and November all over the city and in the surrounding areas. Knowledge and techniques will be shared in order to enhance techniques and standardize quality of products. The series of workshops include seminars on papiermâché, glass blowing, dance, and music offered by professional artists to interested students. The other aspect and perhaps the most appealing and alluring is the festival itself! Between December

Voie Lactée, Jacmel’s City Hall, and many other locations. This celebration of discipline and creativity is an initiative of the MWEM Foundation in collaboration with ARCADES, a program of the Fondation de France (FDF). The Festival de l’Amitié is being promoted by Haitian/Canadian singer/song-writer Luck Mervil. The festival aims to reinforce cultural and artistic activities in the city of light. To ensure that future generations

6th and 9th, the historic district of downtown Jacmel will be alive with the fruits of many artists exploring and sharing their inspiration with one another. Artwork will be everywhere - more specifically, it will be showcased at the Hotel Florita, Place Toussaint Louverture,

of creative souls are able to carry the torch and to select their craft as one of the main focus of their lives. This three month long festival has the complimentary goal of not only affording the artists a platform to hone their skills but also assist in improving their socio-economic conditions. Jacmel is known throughout Haiti as a mecca of creative expression. The Festival de l’Amitié is born of the traditional character of Jacmel and honors the methods and mediums already in use, while injecting some new ideas into the mix. For example, glass blowing and audiovisual integrated displays. The result of all of this is: Two months of artistic exploration followed by four days of all out creative reverie. But don’t just take my word for it, check out for yourself! For more details, visit www.FAhaiti.org or www.facebook.com/FAhaiti. Enjoy the sites for now but plan an excursion to Jacmel and immerse yourself in the culture of a very colorful people.


Dear Readers,

Mrs. Stephanie Balmir Villedrouin Minister of Tourism

The Ministry of Tourism, in order to increase Haiti’s tremendous tourism potential, for the development of all our regions and for our country to shine brightly, offers a clear vision that will lead all stakeholders to work seamlessly in to better structure and better promote tourism in Haiti. With the many efforts made by the Government signs of recovery in the sector are now real. Today, everything indicates that the sector will enjoy increased growth in the coming years. Less than a year after my meeting in Madrid in January 2012 with the Secretary General of the World Tourism Organization (WTO), Mr. Taleb Rifai has done us the honor of visiting our dear Haiti. This is the first visit of a Secretary General of WTO in Haiti in 14 years. The President of the Republic, Mr. Michel Joseph Martelly took the opportunity to join the “open letter” of the WTO and the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC). Haiti became the 40th country to support the “open letter” which is a sensibilization campaign on tourism. The WTO and the Ministry of Tourism of Haiti also signed a Memorandum of Understanding on Tourism to strengthen cooperation between the two organizations in order to improve the image of Haiti as a tourist destination. This visit is a new step for the Ministry of Tourism, in adapting its activities for the sustainable development of the Government of Haiti. Haiti, the soul of the Caribbean, according to Mr. Taleb Rifai, has all the potential to become a major tourist destination on the international scene. It is for us to close ranks and display ingenuity to make known the beauty and accessibility of our destination. As far as I am concerned, I will continue to adopt an effective approach and the development of a competent generation, in order to assure that the Haitian touristic industry benefits from a boom in its ambitions to shine among the best.

Chers lecteurs, Le Ministère du Tourisme, dans le but d’accroître le formidable potentiel touristique d’Haïti pour le développement de toutes nos régions et pour le plus grand rayonnement de notre pays, propose une vision claire qui amène les différents acteurs à travailler de façon harmonieuse en vue de mieux structurer et de mieux promouvoir l’offre touristique haïtienne. Avec les multiples efforts consentis par le Gouvernement les signes de reprise du secteur sont maintenant réels. Aujourd’hui, tout indique que le secteur connaîtra une croissance accrue au cours des prochaines années. Moins d’un an après ma rencontre à Madrid en janvier 2012 avec le Secrétaire Général de l’Organisation Mondiale du Tourisme (OMT), Monsieur Taleb Rifai nous a fait l’honneur de visiter notre chère Haïti. Cette visite est la première d’un Secrétaire Général de l’OMT en Haïti depuis 14 ans. Le Président de la République, S.E. Monsieur Michel Joseph Martelly en a profité pour adhérer à la « lettre ouverte » de l’OMT et du Conseil Mondial du Tourisme et des Voyages (WTTC) qui consiste en une campagne de sensibilisation au tourisme. En marge de cette visite l’OMT et le Ministère du Tourisme d’Haïti (MDT) ont également signé un Protocole d’Accord sur le Tourisme en vue de renforcer la coopération entre les deux organismes afin d’améliorer l’image d’Haïti comme destination touristique. Cette visite constitue un nouveau pas, pour le Ministère du Tourisme, dans l’adaptation de ses activités à la démarche de développement durable du Gouvernement d’Haïti. Haïti, l’âme de la Caraïbes, selon Monsieur Taleb Rifai, possède tous les atouts pour devenir une destination touristique majeure sur la scène internationale. A nous de serrer les rangs et de faire preuve d’ingéniosité pour faire connaître la beauté et l’accessibilité de notre destination. En ce qui me concerne, je vais continuer à adopter une démarche de qualité et le développement d’une relève compétente, en vue d’assurer à l’industrie touristique haïtienne un essor à la hauteur de ses ambitions pour briller parmi les meilleurs.


Let’s Talk!

By Christina Jean-Louis

Ann Pale!

Illustration by Teddy Kesser Mombrun

So you’re already picking up some Kreyòl. But do you know enough to get around town? Knowing how to ask for directions in Kreyòl is key. So, no time to waste, an ale - let’s go!

What’s up? : Sak ap fet?

Turn left : Vire agòch

I am doing alright : M’ap boule

Go right : Fe adwat

Wait, doesn’t that mean I am burning?

Go straight : Ale tou dwat

That is what it literally means, but it is not what it really means.

South : Sud

Ok! Dako!

I’m going south : Mwen prale nan sud

Where are you going? : Ki kote ou pwale?

North : Nò

Where are we going? : Ki kote nou pwale?

Take me to the north : Mennen mwen nan nò

Where are they going? : Ki kote yo pwale?

West : Lwes

Where am I going? : Ki kote mwen pwale?

I need to go west : Mwen bezwen ale ve lwes

What road are we taking? : Ki wout nap fe?

East : Les

the beach : plaj la / the bank : bank la / a restaurant : yon restoran

Attention : Attensyon

Left : A gòch

I’m lost : Mwen pedi

Right : A dwat

Help me find my way please : Edem jwenn wout mwen silvouple

Until our next encounter, don’t forget : Moun ki bewzen deyo, chache chemen pot (He who wants to go out, looks for the door) We want to help you find the door which leads you out-and-about. Haiti has so much in store for you, and we at Magic Haiti want to help you discover some of its wonders! NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 7


Artmosphere

By Judith François | Photos by Nicole Wolf

Making Clothes with Character “My mission is to help the youth by giving them opportunities to learn skills and work. Even though I am not in the highest position myself, every time I advance, I want to see others also get ahead,” Haitian Genius 8 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

R

ight off Route Nationale #1 in Gonaives, there is a small artisan shop that will invite you in not just by its name, but also because of its warm Caribbean colors and once inside its charming owner will make you very comfortable. Equally surprising is that both the shop and its owner are known as ‘Haitian Genius’. Robenson Joseph, 33, who also goes by the nickname ‘Haitian Genius’ is a talented artist who designs and sews T-shirts and purses and sells them at his shop in Gonaives as well as


from the very soft cotton-stretch fabrics,” shares Joseph. After he began showcasing his shirts at different expositions around the country, like Artisanat en Fête, Haitian Genius decided to open up his shop two years ago to duly promote his shirts. “I didn’t like it when all of my products were not sold at the fairs, that I would just put them in a suitcase and return with them home. After one such event, I decided to open a shop,” he notes. The space he selected was too big for only him, so he invited other artisans to sell their artwork and various other handmade crafts. More importantly, it also enabled him to ensure that other gifted individuals also had the opportunity to showcase their products. Besides making fashionable T-shirts, Joseph’s other passions include helping young people in his community. This different boutiques around Port-Au-Prince, such as Galata in Pétion-Ville. Joseph carefully picks the materials that he works with and hand draws the motifs that give each of his pieces their unique character. The designs are organic - flowery patterns and leaves. Each is stamped with his famous trademark name ‘Haitian Genius’. The T-shirts are lightweight, bright, comfortable and perfect for everything from a day at the beach to lunch with friend’s to just lounging around on a relaxing day. One of the best features of the garments? The label made of the same smooth fabric as the T-shirt is just as striking as

the garment. “I buy the fabric from Port-au-Prince or sometimes I travel internationally to purchase material. I scour the market for the best quality that I can find and I select

commitment propelled him to designate the second floor of his shop as an atelier that is sometimes filled with as many as thirty-eight young people who are continually honing their skills. “My objec-

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 9


tive is to help others, it’s not me first. I work with all of the youth who are interested. I want to give them something, because when we are working together, we each have the possibility of being stronger,” Joseph says with conviction. He sent two young ladies to Port-au-Prince to learn bead work, and soon his clothing line will be expanded to include

beaded attire. “We offer free sewing classes to young people in the community. We encourage all who show a penchant for this craft to come and learn, so that tomorrow they can better serve the community. I believe that will reduce poverty in this region.” My mission is to help the youth by providing them

10 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

with a nurturing environment where they can learn skills and work. Even though I am not in a very powerful position, but every time I advance, I want to see others also get ahead,” he fervently verbalizes while accentuating his statement with hand gestures. Perhaps, Haitian Genius’ passion for helping other comes from the fact that he himself has been mentored and also received assistance from others. After learning how to sew in his local school, Haitian Genius also got help from a Canadian volunteer who came to his school to help teach the basics and recognizing his talent, encouraged him to pursue a career in sewing. He has also received a big boost from the Institut Nationale Pour le Develop-

ment et Promotion de la Couture (INDEPCO) a Haitian organization that promotes sewing. “INDEPCO sent me to Port-Au-Prince to learn and advance my skills. Before that I was sewing in a small atelier with about two or three others,”Joseph remembers. INDEPCO went even further by providing most of the sewing machines that are housed at his shop. And through them Haitian Genius has a contract to sew school uniforms. Joseph cleverly pays forward the help he received on the road to success while using his talent to produce attractive apparel. Haitian Genius also makes promotional t-shirts. For inquiry, call 37127348/33232369 or email

robensonjoseph7780@yahoo.fr


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Café Place St. Pierre So much more than a Piano Bar

By Jenny Elie Photos by Frederick Alexis

I

n 2006, Le St. Pierre Restaurant shut its doors permanently. Then owner, Robert Liboiron, closed up shop and returned to his native Canada. A year later, the place re-opened under notso-new management and was

dubbed Café Place St. Pierre. “I didn’t want such a well-situated establishment to go to waste. I had a vision for it,” explains 29 year old Hans Dacosta St. Val who’s known by most simply as ‘Dacosta.’ A former employee of

Le St. Pierre, and a Port-au-Prince native, Dacosta now applies the experience he acquired to running his pub. The intimate setting of Café Place St. Pierre coupled with a low key atmosphere is truly very

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 11


Barbarcourt. Another cocktail favorite is the Rum Sour, with just the right amount of rum to sour ratio. Apart from its very European setting, a wall displaying different world currencies immediately catches

inviting. Patrons can chose to sit in the dining area for their meals or, for a more casual setting, at the bar to of course enjoy a Prestige or the signature ‘Cocktail St. Pierre’, a yummy blend of eight fruit juices mixed with Rhum

your attention; a symbol of the diversity of the clientele at Café Place St. Pierre. According to Dacosta, Friday nights are a favorite for ambassadors and consuls to congregate and unwind after a long work week. The cultural events are one of the reasons why the Café is brimming with patrons

several nights a week. The different events run the gamut from literary, to spoken word, to jazz shows “After the food, it’s the cultural events that bring people through the door,” informs Dacosta. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening the Café hosts a jazz jam session with the well-known

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Haitian saxophone player ‘Ti Sax’. On Saturday nights different spoken word/slam jazz artists are invited to perform. The sultry melodies on the sax, guitar and keyboard inspire the poets as they deliver their words. Actually, Café Place St. Pierre pioneered slam jazz nights which have become popular in Pétion-Ville. Amongst the performers is Dacosta himself, a personification of Billy Joel’s Piano Man. Just

about every evening, Dacosta serenades his clients with the tunes of famous male French singers such as Charles Aznavour, Jacques Brel, Gilbert Bécaud, and the likes. The food at the Café is a veritable experience; the menu is inspired from many different regions around the world to satisfy the diverse taste buds of its patrons. “The types of meals that the chef conjures keeps my clients

coming for more,” declares Dacosta. A wide variety of appetizers is offered, including the Poutine, a Canadian delicacy: french fries topped with curry sauce and mozzarella cheese. Another favorite is the marinad which are fried dumplings à la Haitian stuffed with chicken. Different international and Kreyòl inspired main course dishes are available. Vegetarians will enjoy the Legumes Sautés a la Chinoise, which is a very tasty stir fry of vegetables over a bed of white rice. They can also opt to choose between salads or the vegetarian pizza. Whether you’re in the area for a quick drink with friends or catching one of the many interesting events at Café Place St. Pierre, your experience will be consistent every time. The location, the service, the intimacy all make this café a trendy spot in Pétion-Ville. Dacosta has made it his business to brand Café Place St. Pierre as a ‘go-to’ place for a wide variety of cultural events. Café Place St. Pierre is located at 51 Rue Chavannes | 2 940-3131 or 3 480-1908

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 13


Spotlight

Yvetot Gouin By Isabelle Vasquez | Photos by Frederick Alexis and courtesy of Yvetot Gouin

Modern Day Storyteller “I love Haiti, I draw my inspiration from its strength and its beauty, I always will.” 14 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

Y

vetot Gouin is a filmmaker who returned to Haiti five years ago after spending twenty-three years in New York. In his own words, he returned to Haiti because, “It’s in my blood and it’s my heart; it’s where I grew up.” From the time he was eight years old watching movies, he knew

he wanted to be a filmmaker. “This notion didn’t go over too well with my Haitian parents. They thought their bright child would be better suited for a career as a doctor, a lawyer or an engineer,” he muses. Yet, he persisted in his leanings and went on to become exactly what he had predicted at eight. When he left his homeland, very


few individuals were exploring filmmaking in Haiti, but upon his return in 2007, he found that there were more people interested in the film industry. His advice to aspiring directors is to “treat it like a real job, it’s difficult and you must approach it in a professional manner with integrity and an eye for technical detail.” He goes on to encourage future generations of filmmakers, “Young people need to apply themselves to it, commit to it and they will see results.” Gouin describes his style as very American, as he attended college in New York graduating with a B.A. in Media Studies from the University of Buffalo. His degree afforded him the opportunity to gain experience in all aspects of production. In the early stages of his career he participated in advertising and promotion for major networks in the U.S. When MSNBC came onto the scene in 1996, Gouin was a part of the crew that helped launch the network. While employed there, he worked in advertising and promotion. Gouin assisted with the conceptualization, filming, and editing of commercials and promotional spots. He’s also worked with HBO, NBC, and Lifetime. Gouin remarks of the industry in New York, “Competition is fierce and mediocrity is not rewarded on any level. The industry emphasizes high professional quality in terms of acting, directing, screenwriting, and other elements associated with production, and also upon creativity and innovation. And that is the philosophy and discipline that I bring to all my projects and as well as my clients’ projects.” The ambitious Gouin created his own film producNOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 15


tion company in 1998, Gouin Films, and proceeded to wear many professional hats throughout the years including writing, editing, filming, and of course, directing. Back in Haiti, he espouses a vision for projecting the alluring narratives of his motherland. He asserts that, “Haiti sometimes gets a bad rap, but there is so much beauty and inspiration here.” He considers himself a visual artist with a story to tell. As such he uses everything that life has thrown at him, all of the joy, the sadness, the melancholy... The idea is to tell a story, capture what’s real to create emotion. “That’s what directors are, we’re story tellers,” he shares. Before agreeing to do a project, the director has to “like and respect it as well as feel connected to it.” The raw connection is felt in his short film, Haiti Leve Kanpe, or Haiti, Get Up. The piece features a narrative of Haiti before the 2010 earthquake, the devastation that occurred during and directly after, and proclaims a message of hope, of better times to come

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as Haiti struggles to get back up. His “Americanized” directing style can be felt in a series of wide and close up shots. It’s set to an appropriately poignant track by the Dominican Republic Symphonic Orchestra. The piece is sure to stir emotion in most people who have lived through, or witnessed the aftermath of the devastating earthquake. He’s worked with several Haitian music artists including Mikaben, Bélo, and Steve Mahy. In the Steve Mahy video for the song Haiti chérie, he lovingly lingers on the vibrant colors of vegetables at the outdoor market, children playing, and the lovely Mrs. Mahy singing her ode to her country through Haiti’s streets. His affection for Haiti infuses his features. “I love Haiti, I draw my inspiration from its strength and its beauty, I always will,” says Gouin as parting words to our conversation. Contact Gouin Films at info@gouinfilms.com. View Yvetot’s work including ‘Haiti Get Back Up’, Vimeo under his name, Yvetot Gouin.


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Words In Print

By Marvin Victor Photos by Frederick Alexis

18 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


Going to Meet a Beautiful Mind M

aksaens tells me that we’ll be starting a little bit late. So I wait, sitting in his courtyard, sipping on a very strong coffee. My heart is pounding. Yet I know caffeine is not to blame for it. Could it be because I am about to knock on the door of Haiti’s most prolific artist who lives not too far away. “A UFO”, to quote his own words. Born on April 2, 1936 in Ravine-Sèche, a small village in the Artibonite district, Frankétienne is a wellestablished poet, playwright, painter, musician, singer, and teacher. Son of a young

October 17th. It’s almost two o’clock in the afternoon. I’m in Pétion-Ville with my friend Maksaens Denis, a video artist who is going to shoot my first meeting with

Frankétienne, the author of “Dézafi” – the first novel written in Haitian Kreyòl.

Haitian girl of fourteen or sixteen raped by an old American industrialist, Frankétienne is an award-winning author. As he will tell me later, the day after our meeting, on the telephone, at dawn around 5:00 a.m., he is himself chaos. 2:03 p.m., I am almost on time. I knock on his heavy sienna-colored gate. His house is as impressive as his canon of work - more than 50 books to date. My fear escalates. I feel like time stands still; a great feeling since I can’t stand

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“This is why I chose to become an artist instead, or in other words, son, a cathedral!” being late. I take a deep breath, and say hello to the young man who opens the door. Meanwhile, Maksaens is filming in front of the house and the courtyard bordered by tall trees. I wait on the first floor terrace. I do not want to sit down, because there are men to whom one must stand up to talk to. Here we are! I’m within the walls of this beautiful mind. I see him approaching in a nice sky blue shirt and navy cargo pants. He looks more like a wise old man, I tell myself in the lowest whisper, noting that my distaste for the master decreases gradually. I forget the presence of the camera. Enthusiastic handshakes. He kisses the young woman who accompanies me. Despite a 42-year-old marriage with MarieAndrée, with whom he has several children,

20 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

Frankétienne loves women, he confesses. Even his real name is impressive: JeanPierre Basilic Dantor Frank Étienne d’Argent. His name reminds him of his classmates’ teasing at the Petit Séminaire Collège Saint-Martial. His name is puzzling. And so is he. A very light skin man with deep blue eyes, Frankétienne also displays Negroid features. His physical appearance defies social categorization, and his name, is the embodiment of beliefs rooted in the hinterlands, offers a window onto the countryside. Frankétienne saw his father only once in his life. He is the image of chaos, or in other words “spiralisme.” In the 70’s, along with JeanClaude Fignolé and René Philoctète, Franketienne initiated an artistic movement defining his


sang, in his megalomaniac tone that annoys many, to emphasize his singularity and his genius. Frankétienne says he is at the end of his career, but do not believe it! He has just completed a new book Magicriture prophétique and is still waiting for the Nobel Prize. Following a successful lecture tour organized in 1999 by Marcel Duret, the Haitian ambassador to Japan, several Japanese, French, and U.S. universities sent his nomination to Oslo. 8:17 PM. I take out my first novel “Corps Mêlés” from my bag to offer it to him. He smiles at the sight of the neat pale-colored cover. We embrace fraternally. He did not know who I really was, but he heard of me, he stated. I tell him that I hated him, and I love him… Then suddenly he looks elsewhere, as if he were about to dis-

existence. The characteristics of “Spiralisme” represented by many digressions informed his lifestyle as well as his way of writing and talking “because he always has too much to say.” At barely seven, the author of Ultravocal (1972) and H’ÉrosChimères (2002) already smoked, and drank, he says with a smirk. He used to steal kleren from his young mother who

owned a corner drink stand in Bel-Air, where he grew up and began his long and winding path. Yet he’s survived almost everything: alcohol, tobacco, women, crime, and even prostate cancer. “Had I been in politics, I would have become a terrible politician or a criminal,” he said. “This is why I chose to become an artist instead, or in other words, son, a cathedral!” He then

appear through the night, which is probably not the one that I am going to enter by leaving his house, nor the night of his wife, and I hear (or I trust I hear) this beautiful mind whispering his long and white beard twitching: “If you happen to fall, quickly learn to ride your fall. Make that fall your horse to continue your journey!” NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 21


Escapade

Jardins sur Mer Blooming

with Personality

By Maureen Boyer | Photos by Frederick Alexis

L

ocated in Aquin, a southern town found on the way to Les Cayes, Jardins Sur Mer is one of the best strategically placed hotels on the coast. Jardins Sur Mer is built on a hilltop overlooking a bay. From the hotel, there is a breathtaking view of the southern landscape: rolling mountains, white sandy beaches, translucent blue water, and the small islands that the coast harbors. But what the environment of the hotel itself has to offer is what makes it stand out. From the flourishing yard to the comfortable rooms to the warm and gregarious host, Jardins Sur Mer is perhaps one of the most memorable hotels in Haiti. 22 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


K

eeping true to its name, Jardins sur Mer is really a garden over the water. The quiet grounds are home to a variety of mature trees like soursop, mango, palm, and coconut. On one side of the hotel, there’s a small menagerie with a tidy chicken coop right next to an outdoor rabbit hutch. With sitting areas nestled among the flowering plants under the shady canopy, one has no choice but to sit and absorb nature. And then, there’s the hotel’s owner, Bob Anglade. With a grand personality and an equally booming voice, Bob Anglade explains how he ended up building Jardins sur Mer in Aquin, “I lived abroad for 27 years. I lived in Europe and I worked in Africa. I returned to Haiti in 1986 to contribute - that was the idea. I became interested in marine biology, specifically in fishing, so I came back to Aquin, my father’s native town.” While still working on the development of the fishing industry in Aquin, Bob Anglade decided to set up the hotel in 2004. The hotel is a representation of Bob Anglade, from the concept to the design

The quiet grounds are home to a variety of mature trees like soursop, mango, palm and coconut.

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 23


and even down to the food. The hotel’s menu reflects Anglade’s passion for fishing. It offers certain dishes straight from the sea such as seafood timbale, grilled lobsters and marinated shrimp. The menu also features delicious options like chicken cooked with raisins, grilled beef tenderloin, and pasta. On special occasions, it is possible to have a taste of a fresh and well-seasoned oyster spread. It should be no surprise that the latter comes straight from Anglade’s own oyster farm. Bob Anglade is Jardins sur Mer, in the sense that he goes above and beyond to please his customers. He has welcomed last minute reservations as well as cooked for guests himself when the staff isn’t present. “Bonjour! Bienvenue!” is Anglade’s warm greeting to every single per-

#1 in OFF-ROAD

26, Route de l’Aéroport 2514-1800 / 2250-1800 / 2813-1800

polarishaiti@rhtplaza.com 24 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


and bursting with personality. Jardins sur Mer is perfect for a tranquil getaway where you can immerse yourself in a spellbinding tropical environment. Remove yourself from the world, enjoy the coast of Aquin and son entering the premises. The atmosphere of comfort is consistent in the rooms as well. Jardins sur Mer has 12 rooms, one of which is a dormitory that can house twelve people, and can house thirty-six people overall when tents are included. The hotel rents out tents at an economical price for the travelers looking for a really natural experience. As an excursion, patrons have the option to visit the small island of La Trompeuse for a day, where they are able to enjoy the beach all to themselves. In addition, Bob Anglade is in the midst of building an art room to bring value to the work of artisans in the area, an air-conditioned restaurant and a conference room. He is in the preliminary phases of enlarging Jardins sur Mer and creating

the warm hospitality of Bob Anglade, his staff and the residents of the area. To make a reservation call 3 119-8686 or 2 270-1051 or email jardinsurmer@hotmail.com

amenities to make better use of the sizable tract of land he owns. “You have to have a vision, you have to have the will and you have to believe as well. I continue to believe,”cheers Anglade. He has great aspirations for the area of Aquin and all the potential possibilities for development, for instance, producing sea salt. He’s an innovator, seeing the potential for development in all the resources around him. He can give you the history and practical uses of every single plant on his property. Arguably, one of the most interesting people I’ve encountered, Bob Anglade, himself, is one of Haiti’s valuable resources. Jardins sur Mer is a natural gem. Surrounded by green, bordered by blue NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 25


MONDAY SANKOFA

Lunch & Breakfast Specials Delivery Available

Open Daily for Breakfast and Lunch 43 Rue Rebecca 2 940-6262

THURSDAY CHICKEN FIESTA Chicken Wings Your Way Finger Licking Chinese Food as Well Delivery Available

Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner 124 Rue Panamericaine 3 813-9866 Jlaborde25@yahoo.com

MONDAY

NANA’Z SANDWICH SHACK Lunch Special

Special Hamburger & Milkshake 11:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.

Open Daily for Lunch 77 Rue Gregoire Petion-Ville Haiti (509) 39 92 22 22 / (509) 39 92 21 21

TUESDAY

GARDEN STUDIO Kareoke Night Thursday

Unplugged

Beginning at 9:00 p.m.

Open Tuesday to Sunday for Lunch & Dinner 101 Rue Gregoire 3 499-0452

SATURDAY THE KLEREN BAR First shot on the house

Open Saturdays & Sundays Noon to Midnight

SATURDAY LE P’TIT CREUX

Kenscoff 87, Rt de Kenscoff 36 96 21 14/37 67 63 67

Local Buffet & Live Music

Noon – 4:00 p.m.

Open Daily for Breakfast & Lunch 57, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893

SUNDAY CAFÉ DE L’EUROPE Brunch

11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Saturday Live Sax Player Friday Tapas Night with Troubadour 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468


NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 27


Postcard In Motion

Saut Mathurine A Gift from Nature

By Maureen Boyer | Photos by Ludmillo Pierre

O

n a mountain above the town of Camp Perrin, stands one of Haiti’s most breathtaking sites, Saut Mathurine. After leaving the paved road, passing by a beautifully painted yellow and pink church and entering several dirt roads lined with charming countryside houses, we finally reach the tall green and red gates that guard this wondrous waterfall. What stands behind these

28 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

gates is even more magnificent than I ever expected. The waterfall of Saut Mathurine is one of the sites that seasoned travelers of Haiti always recommend. When asked about some of her favorite places to visit in Haiti, internationally recognized Haitian-American author, Edwidge Danticat, does not hesitate to include Saut Mathurine as one of her top five favorite places. Having seen some great water-


Sonson and Little Sonson enjoy the initial frigid bite which we quickly get used to. As I swim and laze in the water, I can’t help but stare at the force of it coming from above my head and looking at the calm down flow, surrounded by moss, trees, giant tufts of bamboo, and the soaring birds above, I understand why life is beautiful. I’ve never been so in awe with nature in my life. The area is virgin, untouched, and it has been this way for centuries and hundreds of the people who stood at the same spot as I do fell in love with Saut Mathurine as hard as I have. We swim hours of the afternoon away and bond with the Sonsons. When it’s time

falls in my own lifetime, I don’t expect to be stunned by Saut Mathurine’s beauty; I will soon discover that I am mistaken. After entering the tall green and red gates, I hear the forceful rumbling of the falling water. This violent struggle to pour onto the river below creates such a naturally calming sound. Several feet further down the path and, there it is, right in front of me, among all the exuberant greenery, Saut Mathurine! The falls infinitely pour over the ledge of a mountain called La Selle. Downstream, however, is a contrast to the tumultuous

to go I reluctantly pull myself out of the water, we bid our new friends Sonson and Davidson adieu, and we admire Saut Mathurine one more time from afar. And just like that we we’re off to other adventures, but Saut Mathurine now stands in my heart as one of my favorite places in the world. Here in Haiti for more than a week? If yes, then you must visit Saut Mathurine. The town of Camp Perrin, is very quaint and is home to a few of Haiti’s natural wonders. The way to the waterfall isn’t quite that easy so I strongly recommend having a guide. The majestic waterfall itself more than makes up for the rocky road and think of it this way – Getting there is half the fun.

meeting of the waters - it’s completely tranquil. And that’s where I come across two young regulars of Saut Mathurine, Davidson, who is 10 years old and Sonson who is in his late teens. Big Sonson and Little Sonson, as I call them, visit the cascade everyday. They fish in the receiving river and sometimes they catch bigger fish at the top of the falls. With the sun shining above, the vibrant green infecting us, and our main attraction beckoning, the only natural thing to do is jump in the water. I, another member of the Magic Haiti team along with Big NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 29


30 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


Heartbeat Why Haiti?

By Farah Doura Photos by Ludmillo Pierre

M

eeting Jean René, one cannot see him as anything else but a dancer. Every single one of his gestures reveals time and time again his craft. Watching him interact with others is a performance of its own. Synonymous with

Dancing to the Rhythm of his Heart dance this name doesn’t go unnoticed in Haiti. When asked when he started dancing, Jean René refers to what famed Haitian author Yannick Lahens so poetically stated: “Jean René did not start dancing one day, he started dancing with his first look and first breath as

he came into the world.” Born 45 years ago but looking like a fit 28 year old (benefits of dancing for a living), Jean René is familiar with fame. The son of a legendary Haitian comedian, he explains that creativity always ran in his family and dance was always part

of him. In 1983 he pursues the art form as an after-school activity picking Jazz as a discipline to be “à la mode” (fashionable) at a time when the moves of Soul Train dancers and Michael Jackson were revolutionizing

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 31


“When people come to my shows I want them to see of what I’m capable of”

dancing. “As long as you can earn enough to eat with your dancing then go for it,” are his father’s words when Jean René decides to pursue higher studies. Very curious about the world of performing arts, he decides to travel in the late 1980’s. First stop: the Dominican Republic. There he becomes very enchanted by the neighboring country’s classical ballet company and falls in love with the beautiful choreographies. Next he goes to The Jamaica School of Dance where he impresses so much he is offered a full scholarship. He refuses. Why? Remember he’s curious. His following stops take him to the U.S., where he first studies in Miami and later moves to Manhattan to enroll in a rigorous program of 21 classes a week studying the Graham Technique. Dedicated to the cause, our dancer adds a few more classes to his grueling schedule by attending a Brooklyn dance school. His curiosity satisfied, Jean René decides to move back home to share with Haiti what the rest of the world had taught him. In the mid 1990’s Centre de Danse Jean René Delsoin is established.

32 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

Parents wanting a strong dancing foundation send their children to take classes in Ballet and Jazz and adults from many backgrounds find excitement in the school’s weekly courses of Jazz and Folklore. But to really get a feel for what is true to our dancer, a show from La Compagnie de Danse Jean René Delsoin (the dance company) brings to life how the artist envisions the art. A spectacular flow of costumes, soul, movement, and technique: the excitement doesn’t stop. It’s Jazz twisted

with Folklore intertwined with Ballet framed with Modern dance. No imitations here, it’s all original. Jean René knows the work he does with his company is valuable. External affirmations abound including an invitation to represent Haiti last October as part of Center Stage, an initiative of the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. Five dancers, three percussionists and the master himself took to the stage to depict Haiti’s powerful heritage during the month long tour across the U.S. The drunken trance of the drums in Tanbou Passion, the intense rituals of a vodou ceremony in Lakou and a country’s spiritual beliefs in Trilogy have imprinted the minds of many. Jean René knows some may not remember his name nor that of his company but they will for certain remember that Haiti was part of the show. “When people come to my shows I want them to see of what I’m capable of. I’m always focusing on different concepts. Some years ago after a per-


this ever-changing world. The world is movement, the world is change.” Jean René never liked politics but through his dancing has been able to address issues that have handicapped this country for so long. It is more than doing certain types of steps or selecting popular songs, it’s all about communicating with an audience and talking to them through movement. He loves his country, loves his art and loves the power of expression that is dance. formance in Martinique this woman came up to me and said, “I saw Haiti tonight, I felt Haiti tonight and Haiti was so beautiful.” It was a spectacular presentation. We started with

Tanbou Passion, continued with Trilogy and ended with a live ‘Rara’ (festival music performed during processions with Afro and Taino influences). The crowd loved it! I am flattered when

people say they consider the Jean René Company as the little Alvin Ailey of Haiti. It’s all about feelings during my presentations, not just twists and turns. The variety at my shows reflects

Centre de Danse Jean René Delsoin is located at 75 Rue Clerveaux, Call 2257-0112 or email, info@jeanrenedelsoin.com or visit www.jeanrenedelsoin.com.

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 33


Artmosphere

Gladys Louissaint

Transforming Everyday Items into Works of Art By Kristine Belizaire | Photos by Frederick Alexis

C

oconut shells, glass bottles, cow horns, and cow bones might not be one’s first idea of jewelry making material. Thankfully, local artisan Gladys Louissaint looks at these resources as an opportunity. From her studio in PétionVille, Loussaint is transforming these local resources of Haiti

into art. “In 1988, when I was a younger woman, I loved to wear jewelry,” she says laughing. “I was not always able to afford much of it, so I would buy a few articles, and replicate them for my own use.”When she received numerous praises for her work, she realized that she had a gift for crafting. Since then, she

34 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

has made a name for herself in Haiti’s art community with her bold and elegant pieces. Her reputation and expertise have also led her to participate in exhibitions in Haiti and the Dominican Republic. To create unique necklaces, earrings and rings, Louissaint mainly uses the raw materials mentioned


which she purchases from local merchants in Port-au-Prince. She then uses a grinder to smooth the materials. Her favorite material, the cow horn, is easy to form, and once the general shape has been achieved, she uses other tools to refine and add texture to her chunky necklaces, bracelets and rings. Among tourists visiting Haiti, her most popular item is her glass jewelry. She notes that it takes time and patience to turn the sharp glass into safe embellishments that can be worn. Using the grinder, she takes off the sharp edges until each piece of glass is even and polished. When the desired form of the glass is achieved, she strings it onto a cord, or wraps them in delicate wire creating sumptuous adornments.

One of the best features of all her jewelry is how lightweight they are. From the looks of them, the cow horns

and bones seem as though they would be heavy to wear, but are actually very delicate and do not add any uncomfortable pressure to the body. Six years ago, Louissaint was approached by event organizers to participate in an art festival, Artisanat en Fête, Haiti’s most notable arts and craft festival. “I was friendly with many of the the local artisans,” she recounts. “I wanted to get them involved in any event where they could showcase their talents.” While she has enjoyed much success through her work, her journey has not always been easy. “There was a time that I thought my soul would die,” she confides as she looks at the scar on her arm. This was following January 12, 2010, when her wrist-bone was broken during the disastrous earthquake. “It was sheer determination and will that made me continue to pursue my craft.”Luckily, her wrist healed quickly and she was able to fully return to work

after only a few months, an activity that helped her spirit heal in turn. She also hopes to bring about a new generation of artisans. She’s starting with her daughter Belinda, who also has a passion for jewelry making. “I hope that she will continue in my footsteps,” Gladys says. “I hope that she will continue to use Haiti’s resources to their fullest potential.” Louissaint’s crafts can be found at several locations in Port-au-Prince, such as the Research Institute for the Promotion Haitian handicrafts (IRPAH) Rue Oge,6 Petion-ville, and MEN NOU Atisan on Place Boyer For more information, contact her at 3179-1578.

facebook.com/magichaiti

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 35


Escapade

B&B Comfy

an old favorite with a new twist

B

&B is the new kid on the block in terms of lodging and fine dining. The stone and wood structure, blooming with bromeliads and ferns on the exterior, houses a bed and breakfast, a gourmet deli, and a high end restaurant all in one convenient location.

By Isabelle Vasquez | Photos by Frederick Alexis At B&B Comfy avant-guard luxury meets traditional comfort. The walls are lined with aromatic cedar wood and studded with a multitude of local paintings. The owner and operator, Jacques Bonnefil generously shares his impressive art collection with guests, which boasts renowned Haitian artists such as SĂŠdor,

36 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

Gesner Armand, Ernst Joseph, Legagneur, and Marie Louise Fouchard. Although an interior designer was hired to finalize the ambiance, Bonnefil, was hands-on and present for most decisions as he loves to decorate. Check out the eccentric artisanal ceiling fans for evidence of his unique touch.

B&B Comfy Inn is part of the renovated space where the restaurant Les Cascades used to stand. Bearing the same owner, the inn retains all of the elegance and class of its former interpretation. Bonnefil decided to renovate the popular restaurant after the 2010 earthquake when he noticed a lack of small


Patricia Chauvet

Jacques Bonefile

“Beauty is my drug of choice” hotels. They reopened their doors in July after “a long and arduous gestation period which happily produced three offsprings, B&B Comfy Inn, La Gourmandise, and J&B Anchor,” says the entrepreneur. When he talks about the restaurant, the menu, and the ambiance, you can see the man come alive, his passion and joie de vivre are contagious. “Beauty is my

drug of choice,” shares the restaurateur proudly. Indeed it is, and it shows, evident in small personal touches like the custom hand painted walls by Marie Louise Fouchard. The Bed & Breakfast features twenty-two rooms and one penthouse suite for honeymoons, special occasions and eventually

long term rental. The rooms are smaller European-style rooms that offer all the right comforts. This cozier atmosphere fills a lodging void by providing something that is rare in Haiti, a quaint, more personal hotel with a ‘comfy’ vibe. La Gourmandise, the

attached deli, gives the unique opportunity to purchase raw meats with the sauces prepared at the restaurant in order to enjoy a fine dining experience at home for those who, like me, are a bit challenged in the kitchen. It also provides fine wine connoisseurs the convenience of

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 37


choosing a wine from the store which isn’t offered on the menu upstairs to better complement their meal. While most Bed & Breakfasts offer comfort food, B&B Comfy Inn offers the unparalleled opportunity to enjoy a more refined cuisine at its elegant restaurant. The restaurant offers a French-based cuisine with an international twist. J&B Anchor prominently features a wooden grill in its entrance and when it’s sizzling the aroma permeates the air and opens appetites. They also boast an impressive array of delicious non-grilled and equally appetizing dishes. Bonnefil is a big believer in using quality products from beginning to end in order to ensure consistent exceptional dining

38 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

experiences. He has hired the best chefs, including a happy reunion with his original Cascades chef, Réginald Courri. The restaurant also features a piano and Bonnefil has plans to re-launch the impromptu jazz jam sessions that made the old Cascades the go to place for dinner and entertainment. This time around, the live music will be a bit more limited, with mostly acoustic nights, so as not to disrupt the hotel guests. Bonnefil hosted us at J & B for dinner. Everything looked absolutely mouth watering and I couldn’t wait to dig in and sample my dinner with a mental note to return to try my dinner mates’dishes. Great care was taken with the

plating of the food. For my part, my escargots au beurre d’ail was well seasoned with the garlic butter sauce a perfect accompaniment to my dinner bread. For the main course, my cotelette de veau (veal chop) just melted right off the bone and was cooked to perfection. The dessert suggested by our host brought back memories of going to Les Cascades with my family when I was a kid as I ordered the crèpe au chocolat which was stuffed with the mousse I loved as a child. B&B Comfy is located at 73 Angle rue Clerveaux et Ogé For more information call 3813-1212 or 2227-0000


FAB

5

Culinary Innovators By Farah Doura We all love food and love it even more when we meet the hand behind our delectable pleasures. Below are five Haitian Chefs who’ve made their mark in the world of gastronomy by reinventing, innovating, and resurrecting local staples into dishes that transcend the expectations of even the pickiest eater.

Chef Dimitri,

Executive Chef, Kanèl Restaurant, Le Plaza Hotel Distinguished by his specialty Grilled Pork Skewers, marinated in sugar cane syrup flavored with thyme and rosemary, this Chef adds a twist to any basic dish. Five years in the business, the 30 year old graduate of the Cordon Bleu in Miami is all about letting the ingredients shine. He livens-up the usual with unusual accents.

Chef Mi-Sol,

Michou Angus,

Mi-Sol Chevallier, a Chef on a mission, wants to make the world a healthier place by showing Haitians alternative ways of eating their local staples. Djon djon (wild mushrooms) usually cooked with rice turns into a flan at Café Organic and breadfruit typically fried becomes a pancake. And the unforgettable carrot soup. Her fusions dare us to experience the most common flavors in a different way.

“I’m more than a bartender, I’m a mixologist,” states Michou Angus to better explain her profession. Growing up with a perfumer for a grandmother, Angus’ sharp sense of smell becomes her secret weapon when mixing her perfectly balanced and highly sought after cocktails. Specialty: ChouChou Cocktail with Raspberry juice and Rhum Barbancourt.

Owner/Chef, Café Organic

Bar Master, CulinaryMix

Chef Ron Duprat, Chef Jouvens Jean, Top Chef Contestant, Season 6 Executive Chef at Pierre’s, Key West, FL His Sea Bass with Haitian Hash (yucca, sweet potato, and plantain) topped with a vanilla Rhum Barbancourt sauce left all his competitors in the dust when this dish won Chef Ron Duprat his first challenge on Top Chef. Today with his book “My Journey of Cooking” Duprat brings the rich cuisine of Haiti to the rest of the world.

With a culinary background in Asian, Italian, Mediterranean, and Kreyòl it’s no wonder Chef Jouvens was able to win the Gold Medal for Most Innovative Use of Seafood at theTaste of the Caribbean representing Team Haiti. With a Smoked Scallop Ceviche, Pan Seared Snapper, Shrimp Fried Rice Spheres and Beans flavored with a Fish Sauce, the judges were impressed. NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 39


restaurants 5 Coins

Café Terrasse

il Vigneto

La Souvenance

Acajou Restaurant & Bar

Celeri Rouge

HANG Sports Bar & Grill

La Table de Cauis

Haitian cuisine 20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277 Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610

Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill

Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate, PV 3403 0822

Assiette Créole Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé, PV 2 940 0041

Babako

Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown, Lalue 2813 1912

BreakTIme

Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin, PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027

Café Com' Ça

Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angle Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 2014 / 3444 0607

Café de l'Europe

French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé, PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 /

Fusion 81, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 944-1313 88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670

Chez Wou

Chinese Cuisine Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626

Chicken Fiesta

American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2813 9866

Citronelle

Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5, Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387

Domino's Pizza

Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446

Emina's Garden

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005

Fior Di Latte

Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445

Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414 American Cuisine 31, Rue Rigaud, PV +509 2 942 4264

Intrigue

Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504

Kay Atizan

Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772

French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795

16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227

Le Christo Villa Russo Angle Rues Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166

Le Coin des Artistes

Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163

Le Daily Gourmet Cafe

Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707

Buffet Rue Roumain off Tabarre Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com 3411 5274

La Coquille

Le Florville

La Plantation

Le P'tit Creux

La Réserve - ATH

Le Paris St Tropez

L'Olivier

Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908 French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette 22941 6334 Fusion 2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 509.29.40.01.90 , 509.29.46.11.11 info@lareserveht.com

Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161 Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893 Italian Cuisine 88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219

Le Relais de Chateaublond Fusion Par Historique de la Canne a Sucre 3 449-7407 rachelhyppolite@yahoo.com

Le Toit Blanc

Fusion Route du Saut # 22 4408 0824

Le Villate

12 Rue Villate, PV levillate@gmail.com 3400 1212 / 3 402 1212

Les 3 Decks - ATH

Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201

Les Délices Burger Fast Food 97, Rue Grégoire, PV 3646 1600 / 3646 1601

Les Jardins de Gérard 17, Rue Pinchinat, PV 3449 5943

Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant Thai Cuisine

40 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


35, Rue Villate, PV 3724 1661

LunchBox

L’Esplanade 2 Rue Darguin, PV lunchboxhaiti@gmail.com 4 412-3138 / 3 781-0012

Magdoos

Mediterranean Cuisine 30, Rue Ogé, PV 3821-2121 / 3733-2525

Mikaz

Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951

Mozaik

Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939

Mr. Grill

Steakhouse

39, Rue Rigaud, PV mrgrillsteakhouse@live.com + 509 3114 2524 / 3620 4954

Muncheez

Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392

The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar Esperanza Building, 87, Rue Grégoire, PV 3774 6729

The Lodge - ATH Fusion

Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870

Tiffany Restaurant

Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman, Bicentenaire

Toftof Restaurant-Bar

Creole Cuisine 39, Rue Lamarre 2949-3939 / 3612-7268 (cell) toftofrestaurant@gmail.com

Vert-Galant

Creole and bistro cuisine 81 avenue Lamartiniere (Bois-Verna) Facebook.com/vertgalant.boisverna 4629 8659

View

Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux, PV | 3632 7706

Nana’z Sandwich Shack

77 Rue Grégoire Pétion-Ville Haiti 3992 2222 / 3992 2121

O Brasileiro Social Club Fusion 103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050

Océane Bar & Grill

Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt, PV 2940 2449

www.magichaiti.com

Papaye

Fusion 48. Rue Métellus, PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678

Pizza Garden

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Chavannes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200

Presse Café

Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud, PV 3701 0092

Quartier Latin

Fusion 10, Rue Goulard Place Boyer, PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325

Rebo Expresso

Fast Food / Coffee 25, Rue Métellus, PV 2949 0505

Sankofa Salads

Fast Food 43, Rue Rebecca, PV 2940 6262

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 41


travel companion Ouanga Bay Auberge du Rayon Vert

Côte Caraïbe

Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe-ATH (Cap Haitien) hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915

Résidence Royale-ATH

(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 / 2942- 0540

Hotel Beck

Bel-Air, Cap-Haitien (509) 3770-3659 / 3394-0909

Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH

(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 2943-1110 / 2942-6975

Auberge du Picolet-ATH

(Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 / 3438-6357

Hôtel Beaux Rivages-ATH (Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583

Cormier Plage-ATH

cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 / 3804- 6673

Cap Lamandou (Jacmel)

+509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr

Hôtel Villa Ban Yen

(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091

Auberge du Mont Saint Jean

(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789

L’Amitié Guest House :

(Port-Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728

Dan’s creek

(Port-Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404

Relais du Boucanier

(Port-Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806

El Rancho-ATH

valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 / 3727-3589

Hotel Kabic Beach Club (Jacmel) www.kabicbeachclub.com/ +509 3780-6850

Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou-ATH

(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com

Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528

Wozo Plaza

(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr

Port Morgan-ATH

(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www.port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154

Manolo Inn

Delmas 31, Airport Rd 509 3452 9480 / 2940 0135 International: 954 776-1515 sachasaieh@hotmail.com lamermotel@bellsouth.net

elsabaussan@yahoo.com, +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503

Côte des Arcadins Kaliko-ATH

kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223

Wahoo Bay-ATH

wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831

Moulin sur Mer-ATH

info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918

Club Indigo- ATH

Hôtel du Village (Port-Salut)

Xaragua Hôtel- ATH

42 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012

Habitation Hatt-ATH

Ibo Lélé-ATH

(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201 portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo.fr +509 3713- 9035

5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707

9, Imp Hérard, Delmas 75 lejardinauberge@yahoo.fr +509 2813-8008, +509 3486-6966

(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97

Cyvadier Plage (Cyvadier- Jacmel)

Centre

3, Rue Berthol, Delmas 19 509 3179 3752 International: 954 241 3699 coconutvillahotel@prodigy.net

Hôtel Le Jardin-ATH

La Colline Enchantée

(Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com

#30 Angle Rue Metellus et Ogé, PV 3 671 5603 / 3 435 5603 info@allamandahaiti.com www.allamandahaiti.com

Le Recul (Camp Perrin)

(Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800

Hotel Florita

Abakabay

Allamanda

Coconut Villa-ATH

Aldy Hôtel- ATH (Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 / 3741-0532

hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265

Port-au-Prince

Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy

(Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel) (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582 (Historic District of Jacmel) +509 3785-5154 / 2274-2015 info@hotelflorita.com www.hotelflorita.com

ouangabay@hotmail.com +509 3756- 5212 3932-5810

contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000 lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983

Ideal Villa Hôtel-ATH Delmas 53 # 6 f1berthold@yahoo.com +509-2943-0470

Karibe Hôtel-ATH

info@karibehotel.com 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com

Kinam Hôtel-ATH

info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 ww.hotelkinam.com

Kingdom Hotel

Tabarre 36 19, Rue Sol Solon 3 455-7822 / 2 943-2385

La Réserve Guest House-ATH

+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026


Le Montcel-ATH

(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777 3701-1744 / 3702-7202

Le Ritz-ATH

apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com +509 2943- 0303

Le Plaza-ATH

info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com +509 2814 6000 www.plazahaiti.com

Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610

Palms Résidence

palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 / 3454-0053

Paradis des Receptions & Hotel Frere 29 2 940-6624

Prince Hôtel--ATH

princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422

Art Galleries Collection Flamboyant Galerie d’Art 9 Rue Darguin¸PV Mimv54@yahoo.com.mx 3 909-9231 / 3 555-9398

Expressions Art Gallery

55, Rue Metellus, PV 2 256-3471 / 3 558-7584 admin@expressionsgaleriedart.com www.expressionsgaleriedart.com

Festival Arts

43, Rue Magny, PV 3 551-7311 / 3 401-3171 festivalhaiti@yahoo.fr

Galerie Marassa-ATH

17, Rue Lamarre, PV 3 558-8484 / 4 739-2923 galeriemarassa@yahoo.com www.galeriemarassa.com

Galerie Monnin-ATH

19, Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-4430 / 3 680-3240 galeriemonnin@galeriemonnin.com www.galeriemonnin.com

Galerie Nader

50, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 257-0855 / 3 709-0222 galerienader@hotmail.com www.galerienader.com

Servotel

www.servotelhaiti.com info@servotelhaiti.com +509 2812-7500

The Inn at Villa Bambou Port-au-Prince +509 2 813-1724 www.villabambouhaiti.com

The Lodge-ATH Furcy +509 2510 9870 3458 5968

The Palm Inn Hotel Delmas 31 3, Rue Hatte 3 2 513-4810 / 2 519-0700 www.palminnhotel.net

Villa Créole--ATH

villacreol@aol.com +509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040

Villa Ban-Yen

Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com +509 3420-2091/2941-2091

Visa Lodge-ATH

services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com

L’Atelier Boutique Fondation Theard

Fermathe 59 2 513-9874

Les Ateliers Jerôme

68, Angle des Rues Rebecca & Lamarre, PV 2 513-5362 / 3 705-6825 lesateliersjerome@yahoo.fr www.lesateliersjerome.com

Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com

Go Haiti Tours

info@gohaititours.com +509 2941 0742

Uniglobe - ATH

uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742

Voyages Lumière - ATH voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com

Voyages Plus Cap-ATH

vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484

NOVEMBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 43


Car Rental Avis

20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555

Budget Rent-a-Car

Angle Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988

Dollar Rent-a-Car

Blvd Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950

Europcar

13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556

Hertz

Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700

Secom

564, Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941

Airlines Aerolineas Mas

+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com

Air Caraïbes - ATH +509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com

Air Canada

+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com

Travel Agencies

Transborder Bus Lines

Air France - ATH

Agence Citadelle – ATH

Capital Coach Lines

American Airlines

Chatelain Tours – ATH

Caribe Tours

Francheco Agence de Voyage – ATH

Terra Bus

+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.ht +509 2229 6000 www.aa.com

Continental Airlines www.continental.com

Copa Air

+509 2940 2326 / 29402327 www.copaair.com

Delta Airlines- ATH

+509 2943 3582/2816 1666

info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445-5900

chatelaintours@hotmail.com +509 3701-4570

franchecoav@hotmail.com +509 2940 1168 Goeland Voyages – ATH goelandvoyages@yahoo.com +509-2511 3883

info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777 caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946 chatour@hotmail.com

Airport Shuttle Service

Airport Express

Insel Air International- ATH

Harmony Tours & Travel Agency – ATH

Mission Aviation Fellowship

Multivision Agence de voyage – ATH

Obonsoins

Napolitano Travel Service

Pharmacie du Boulevard

+509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com +509-3791-9209 www.mafhaiti.org

SALSA d’Haiti

Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222

Spirit Airlines

+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com

Tortugair

+ 509 2812 8000

Turks & Caicos Airways www.airturksandcaicos.com

harmony@harmony-tta.com +509 2813-0533

Multivision.voyage@yahoo.com +509 2941-0110

– ATH

napolitanotravel@yahoo.com +509 2940-0750 / 2940-1402

Sans Souci Agence de voyage – ATH mpetoia@gmail.com +509 1813-1564

Uniglobe – ATH

uniglobe@hainet.net +509 3607 1321

+ 509 3445 5902

Pharmacies 107, Rue Louverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 / 3800 3737 1, Angle Blvd. du 15 Octobre & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 / 3808 9050

Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116

Polyclinique 48

408, Auto Route de Delmas OPEN 24/7 + 509 2942-0068 / 3694-2078

general info PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.

facebook.com/magichaiti

44 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012



4 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2012


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