FeaturingNorthAmerica’sLeadingTravelDestinations
Byways3 InstantConnect DirectOne-ClicklinkstoAdvertisers Android,iOS(iPhoneandiPad Email WestVirginia westvirginiatraveller
Byways4
WelcometoByways annualRivers& Lakesissue. BeginthejourneyinMontana andtheYellowstoneRiver. YellowstoneRiverflowsfrom itssourcesoutheastof YellowstoneintotheMissouri Riverandthen,eventually, intotheAtlanticOcean.It’s theonlymajorundammedriverinthelower48 states. TheYellowstoneRivercreatesthethreemost dramaticwaterfallsinYellowstoneNationalPark. Nextit’sofftoWisconsin,where wewalktheShorePatharound GenevaLake.Itoffersanup closeviewofhistoricestatesand stunninghomes.AftertheGreat ChicagoFireof1871,many Chicagonativesmadetheirway uptotheLakeGenevaareato buildsummerestatesthatwere justasimpressiveastheirelegant Chicagomansions.
ExploretheAmishheritagealong theSt.JosephRiverinnorthernIndiana.Here,you canexperiencescenicroadsandbyways,Quilt Gardens,outdoorrecreation,oneofthenation’s largestfleamarketsanduniquefactorytours. The90-mileHeritageTrailallowsyoutoenjoythe ElkhartCountyareafromthesafetyofyourvehicle whilegivingyoutheflexibilitytostopandenjoy attractions,shops,restaurantsandmoreatyour leisure. TheHarryS.TrumanLakeinMissouriisnamedfor theformerPresident.ItsitsbetweenClintonand Warsaw,ontheOsageRiverandextendssouthto Osceola.ItisthelargestlakeinMissouri. TheTrumanVisitorCentersitshighatopKaysinger Bluff,overlookingTrumanDamandtheOsage
Preview
River.Itisoneof10CorpsClassAvisitorcentersin theUnitedStatesandshowcasesTrumanLake,as wellasallotherlakesintheKansasCityDistrict.
Flowing652milesthroughsevenstates,the TennesseeRiverderivesitsnamefromtheCherokee townofTanasi.TheTennesseeRiveristhelargest tributaryoftheOhioRiver.Itislocatedinthe southeasternUnitedStatesintheTennesseeValley. Theriverwasalsoknownfortreacheroustraveland fordevastatingfloodingincommunitieslocatedon itsshores.AspartofFDR’sNewDeal,the TennesseeValleyAuthoritybegandammingtheriver toimprovenavigationandtocontrolflooding.
TheTennesseeRiverhas historicallybeenamajor highwayforriverboats throughtheSouth,andtoday theyarestillfrequentlyused alongtheriver. TheAlleghenyRiverflows 315milesthroughthestatesof NewYorkandPennsylvania. In1859,thefirstpetroleumin theUnitedStateswasdrilled northoftheriveratTitusville. Titusvilleisknownasthe birthplaceoftheAmericanoilindustryandfora numberofyearswastheleadingoil-producingregion intheworld. TheriverpassestheNorthSide,downtown Pittsburgh,andPointStatePark.TheAlleghenyjoins withtheMonongahelaRiveratthe“Point”in downtownPittsburghtoformtheOhioRiver.
In What’sHappening,wevisittheCavesof CalaverasCounty.TuckedawaybetweenYosemite NationalParkandLakeTahoe,CalaverasCountyis adornedwithrollinghillsthatarepepperedwith vineyardsandframedwithalpinelakesandrivers. Threemajorcavernsinvitevisitorstoexploreyearround. WehopeyouenjoythisissueofByways. ByStephenKirchner,Editor&Publisher
Byways7 Volume39,IssueNo.42022 Features Departments CominginFutureIssues BywaysInstantConnect........................................................................................................................3 BywaysPreview....................................................................................................................................4 TravelingtheHighways&BywayswithBillGraves.............................................................................30 Advertiser/SponsoredContentIndex..................................................................................................58 What’sHappening OntheCover. TheGrandCanyonofYellowstone.TheYellowstoneRiver crashesoverthefalls.PhotocourtesyGrastel&CCBY-SA4.0.Formoreon Rivers&Lakes,turntotopage10. UpNext:GreatAmerican Roads FutureissuesofBywayswillfeatureGreatAmericanRoads,Dams&Bridges,GreatAmerican Railroadsandmore.... Atright.TheRoute66TwinDrive-Inin Springfield,Illinois. Stepbackintimeforamovieunderthe starsattheRoute66DriveIn.Grabyour popcornandCokeandsettleinfora greatnightofentertainment. TheCavesofCalaverasCounty.........................................................................................................54 TheYellowstoneRiver.........................................................................................................................10 TheGenevaLakeShorePath.............................................................................................................16 AmishHeritagealongtheSt.JosephRiver.........................................................................................22 Missouri’sTrumanLake.......................................................................................................................34 TheTennesseeRiver...........................................................................................................................40 TheAlleghenyRiver............................................................................................................................46
Byways8
Byways10
Byways11
Earlierthisyear,YellowstoneNationalParkofficials announcedallparkentranceswereclosedtovisitors, citing“recordfloodingevents”ontheYellowstone River.ThehistoricCarbellaBridgeandmany structuresalongtheriverweredestroyed.Thepark laterreopenedtovisitors.
Astheonlyundammedriverinthelower48 states,theYellowstoneRiverflows692miles throughWyoming,MontanaandNorth Dakota.
TheYellowstoneRiverflowsfromitssource southeastofYellowstoneintotheMissouriRiverand then,eventually,intotheAtlanticOcean.
YellowstoneNationalParkwasthefirstnationalpark intheU.S.,createdbyCongressin1872.Itis celebratingits150th Birthdaythisyear.Itisalso widelyheldtobethefirstnationalparkintheworld. Theparkisknownforitswildlifeanditsmany geothermalfeatures,especiallytheOldFaithful geyser,oneofitsmostpopular.
Thethreemostdramaticwaterfallsalongthe YellowstoneRiveroccurinYellowstoneNational Park.OncetheriverleavesYellowstoneLake,it plunges109feetattheUpperFallsandthenanother 308feetatthespectacularLowerFallsdownintothe GrandCanyonoftheYellowstone.Uponleavingthe canyon,therivercascadesdownanother132feetat TowerFalls. TheYellowstoneRiverisatributaryoftheMissouri River.Consideredtheprincipaltributaryofupper Missouri,viaitstributaries,itdrainsanareawith
Byways12
YellowstoneNationalPark
TheYellowstoneRiverbeginsontheslopesofYount PeakintheAbsarokaRangeofWyoming.Itthen flowsthroughYellowstoneNationalPark,streaming inandoutofYellowstoneLake.
headwatersacrossthemountainsand highplainsofsouthernMontanaand northernWyoming,andstretchingeast fromtheRockyMountains.
Attheheadwaters,elevationsexceed 12,800feetabovesealevelanddescends to1,850feetattheconfluencewiththe MissouriRiverinfarwesternNorth Dakota.Thewatershedspans34,167 squaremiles.Theareacontainsmany lakes,includingYellowstoneLake. Therearenostoragedamslocatedonthe mainstemoftheYellowstoneRiver. However,thewatershedcontainsmajor reservoirsbuiltontributaryrivers:Bull Lake,Boysen,BuffaloBill,BigHorn, TongueRiver,andLakeDeSmet reservoirs.
Riverconverge.TheNorthFork,thelargerofthetwo forks,flowsfromYountsPeak.TheSouthForkflows fromthesouthernslopesofThorofareMountain.
Byways13
TheriverrisesinnorthwesternWyominginthe AbsarokaRange,ontheContinentalDividein southwesternParkCounty.Theriverstartswherethe NorthForkandtheSouthForkoftheYellowstone
GoldwasdiscoverednearVirginiaCity,Montanain the1860s,andtwooftheprimaryroutesforaccessing thegoldfieldsweretheBozemanTrailandtheBridger TrailbothofwhichfollowedtheYellowstonefora shortlength.Inthe19thcentury,European-American settlersdependedontheriverfortransportation,and generallyenteredtheregionbyriverboat.
Fishing
TheYellowstonevariesinwidthfrom74feetto300 feet,sofishingisnormallydonebyboat.Themost productivestretchofwateristhroughParadiseValley inMontana,especiallynearLivingstonwhichholds brown,rainbowandnativeYellowstonecutthroat troutaswellasmountainwhitefish.
AlthoughNativeAmericanshadalreadybeenusing theYellowstoneRiver,whichtheyknewastheElk River,foralongtime,peopleofEuropeandescent firstexploreditin1806.Thatyear,theLewisand ClarkExpeditionmadeitswaybackfromthePacific Northwest,andLieutenantWilliamClarkledagroup downtheYellowstoneRiver.
https://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm
EastofBillings,itisjoinedbytheBighornRiver. Fartherdownriver,itisjoinedbytheTonguenear MilesCity,andthenbythePowderineastern Montana.ItflowsintotheMissouriRivernear Buford,NorthDakotajustupstreamfromLake Sakakawea.
History
TheYellowstoneRiverhadlongbeenanimportant arteryoftransportationforNativeAmericans.The regionaroundtheBigHorn,PowderandTongue riversisthetraditionalsummerhuntinggroundsfor numerousNativeAmericantribes:LakotaSioux, Crow,CheyenneandCree.
Byways14
TheYellowstoneRiverisconsideredtobeoneofthe greatesttroutstreamsintheworldandisofficially classedasablueribbonstreaminMontanafromthe parktotheconfluencewiththeBoulderRivereastof LivingstonandfromthemouthofRosebudcreek nearRosebud,MontanatotheNorthDakotaborder. Thelackofdamsalongtheriverprovidesfor excellenttrouthabitatfromhighinsideYellowstone Park,downstreamthroughGardiner,theParadise Valley,Livingston,andtoBigTimber,astretchof nearly200miles.
FromBillingsdownstreamtotheNorthDakota border,anglersseekburbot,channelcatfish, paddlefish,sauger,smallmouthbass,andwalleye.
Byways15
Byways16
Byways17
Asyouenjoyawalkalongthelake’sshore,you’llbe mesmerizedbytheclearbluewatersofthelakeand thetranquilityofsailboats,excursionboatsandeven antiquevesselsastheyglideacrossthepristine waters.
SunsetsoverGenevaLakeareasspecialasthey come,andwatchingonefromanywherealongthe ShorePathisanexperienceyouwon’tsoon forget.ThereissomuchbeautyaroundGenevaLake thatyou’llwanttoexploreitoverandoveragain, takinginnewsightsfromdifferentsegmentsofthe path. TheshorelineofGenevaLakeisapproximately
21miles,butthepathreachesuptoalmost26miles asitweavesinandoutofwoodedareasalongthe shoreline. LakeGenevaRegion LakeGenevaislocatedinsoutheasternWisconsin, approximatelytenmilesnorthoftheIllinoisstate line.I-43issixmilestothenorth.I-94is27miles totheeast.Route12isonLakeGeneva’seastern border.LakeGenevaislocatedapproximately90 minutesfromO’HareInternationalAirportin Chicago.Itisalsoabout45minutesfromGeneral MitchellInternationalAirportinMilwaukee.
T
TheLakeGenevaregionencompassestheCityof LakeGenevaandanumberofvillagesandtowns surroundingthreeneighboringlakes—Geneva Lake,DelavanLakeandLakeComo.Eachofthese communitieshasitsowndistinctivecharm,amenities andnaturalbeauty.Yettogethertheycreatea
heShorePatharoundGenevaLakeoffersan upcloseviewofhistoricestatesandstunning homeswithbeautifullylandscapedyardsand gardens.
Byways18
Byways19
welcomingsenseofplace forthosewholivein,work inandvisittheLakeGeneva region. In1968,thelateHugh Hefnerbuilthisfirst PlayboyresortinLake Geneva.Theclubclosedin 1981andin1982was convertedintothe AmericanaResort,andin 1993tothepresentGrand GenevaResort. Ahistoricmarkerin DowntownLakeGeneva’s LibraryParkreads:“The 26-milelakesidetrailalong theshoreofGenevaLake
wasusedbyseveralIndianculturesfrom2500BC andcontinuingupto1836AD.ChiefBigFoot’s Potawatomitribewalkedthetrailbetweentheir villagesatpresentFontana,WilliamsBayandoneat LakeGenevalocatedinthispark.Laterthetrail becametheworkmen’spathfromLakeGenevato summerestatesofwealthyChicagofamilies.” AftertheGreatChicagoFireof1871,manyChicago nativesmadetheirwayuptotheGenevaLakearea tobuildsummerestatesthatwerejustasimpressive astheirelegantChicagohomes,manyofwhichstill canbefoundalongtheshorepathtoday.
Thepathhasbeenpreservedbyearlysettlerswho decreedthatthe“20feetleadingtotheshorelinebe preservedaspublicdomain”.Propertyownerswere responsiblethen–andstillaretoday–for maintainingthepaththrougheachoftheir properties,whichmakesthetrailuniquelydifferent fromonepropertytothenext.
Byways20
Eachpropertyownerputstheirownpersonaltouch ontheirpartoftheshorepath.Somehaveplaced benchesalongthepathforwalkerstorestupon. Somedisplayartworkoruniquelandscaping.Others
Byways21 mighthavewaterstations orsignagewelcoming walkerstothepath. WalkingtheShore Path Theshorepathisabig undertakingtowalkin onetry.Itwouldtake8to 10hoursforsomeone whoisinaverage physicalshapetomake the26-milejourney aroundGenevaLake.Itis recommendedtowalkit insections,usingafew publicaccesspointsin LakeGeneva,Fontana, WilliamsBayandatBig FootBeachState Park.Pleasenotethat walkingonprivate propertyisnotpermitted. TheeasiestplacetowalkisstartingattheLake GenevaPublicLibraryindowntownLakeGeneva andheadingoutineitherdirectionforaboutamile. Thispieceisgreatforthosewhoaretravelingwith youngchildrenorhavemobilityconcernsasitisa pavedsectionofthepath.Whenyouarereadyto takeonmore,frequentwalkersrecommendstarting onthesouthsideofthepathsinceitisalittlemore challengingthanthenorthside. TheGenevaLakeShorePathissomethingthat everyoneshouldtakeawalkthroughatsomepointin theirlives.Youaresuretodiscoversomethingnew eachtimeyouwalkit,andthescenesareconstantly changingthroughouttheseasonsfromthebloomof springtotheeverchangingcolorsoffall,itisasight tosee. Note:Bicycles,skates/skateboardsandmotorized vehiclesarenotpermittedontheShorePath. https://www.visitlakegeneva.com t
Byways22 t
Byways23
TheSt.JosephRiver,knownlocallyastheSt.Joe,is atributaryofLakeMichiganwithalengthof206 miles.Theriverflowsinagenerallywesterly directionthroughsouthernMichiganand northernIndiana,toitsterminusonthe southeastshoreofthelake.
Itdrainsaprimarilyruralfarmingareainthe watershedofLakeMichigan.Itwas enormouslyimportanttoNativeAmericans andgreatlyaidedinthecolonialexploration, settlementandadministrationofNewFrance andthenascentUnitedStatesasacanoeroute betweenLakeMichiganandthewatershedof theMississippiRiver.
Byways24 E
xploreAmishHeritage,scenicroadsand byways,QuiltGardens,outdoorrecreation,one ofthenation’slargestfleamarketsandunique factorytoursasyoutravelalongtheSt.JosephRiver innorthernIndianaandsouthernMichigan. St.JosephRiver
TheSt.JosephRiverisanexcitingtroutand salmonsportfishery,encompassing47miles ofriverinMichiganand16milesinIndiana.
TheeconomicbenefitstolocalMichiganandIndiana communitiesareestimatedatseveralmilliondollars annually. Canoeistscantraveltheentirelengthofthemain stem,iftheyarepreparedtoportage.Manyofthe largertributariesofferexcellentopportunitiesfor paddling,hiking,hunting,andfishing.
Byways25 History It’seasytoexplorebylocalhistorybyvisitingthe ElkhartCountyHistoricalMuseumandRuthmere CampuswhereDr.HavillahBeardsleymadethe treatyfortheCityofElkhartattheconfluenceof thoseriverswithChiefPierreMoran.Todaythese historichomesareopenfortouring,sharingtheir story. TheElkhartCountyHistoricalSocietycollections representalmost12,000yearsofhumanhistoryin thearea.Itrangesfromstonetoolsto21st-century pharmaceuticals,bandinstrumentstovehicles, textilestocommercialartwork,allcoveringawide rangeofthematerialcultureofElkhartCounty. TheHeritageTrail Makeroad-trippingeasy.The90-milerouteallows youtoenjoytheElkhartCountyareafromthesafety ofyourvehiclewhilegivingyoutheflexibilityto stopandenjoyattractions,shops,restaurantsand
moreatyour leisure. Thisscenic windingloop takesyouthrough thecommunities ofElkhart, Goshen, Middlebury, Nappanee, Bristol, Wakarusa,and Shipshewana.It’s easytoexplore, easyonyour budgetandyou’resuretodiscoverfunateveryturn. TaketheHeritageTrailAudioDrivingTour,which beginsattheElkhartCountyVisitorCenter,3421 CassopolisStreet,Elkhart.Thedrivingtourgives
Byways26 youtimed,turn-by-turndirectionsonthisscenic windingloopasittakesyouthroughthesevibrant communities. AmishHeritage Discoverstunningviews,historicalsites andAmishheritagealongthescenic backroads.Explorecountrylanesdotted withinvitingAmish-ownedshops showcasinghandcraftedandhomemade items.Shopandgetcreativeatboutique andartisanshopsalongcharming downtownMainStreets. You’llfeellikeyou’reataThanksgiving mealwheneveryoueatinAmishcountry. Portionsaregenerousandthehomemade goodnesscomesthroughwitheverybite. Youcandinefamily-styleororderfrom themenuatDasDutchmanEssenhaus Restaurant&Bakery.Theyhave31kinds ofpieonthemenu! PleaseNote:Manyattractions,shopping anddiningestablishmentsinElkhart CountyareclosedonSundays.Please contactindividualbusinessestoconfirm daysandhoursofoperation. QuiltGardens TheQuiltGardensalongtheHeritageTrailjoins quilting,gardening,andartintoaone-of-a-kind eventfeaturingmorethanamillionvibrantblooms, 17giganticgardens,and25hand-painted,super-
Byways27 sizedmurals.Thiscolorfulpatchworkofquiltinspiredgardensandhand-painted,quilt-themed, super-sizedmuralsdeliverdazzlingviewsinthe communitiesofBristol,Elkhart,Goshen, Middlebury,Nappanee,andWakarusa.It’stheonly experienceofitskindintheworldandit’sfree! EntertainmentOptions It’snotalleatingandshoppinginAmishcountry. EveryseatinthehouseisagoodoneattheBlue GateTheatre,whereyoucancatchawell-known musicalactorseeanoriginalstageproduction. Checkoutthe1906DentzelCarousel.Itislocated insidetheDavisMercantileinShipshewana.The originalpartofthecarouselincludesthecenterpole, gearsandmechanismsandwasoriginallyin Germany. ShipshewanaFleaMarket Thereareallkindsofplacestoshopforhandcrafted itemsinAmishCountry.ShipshewanaTradingPlace FleaMarketishometotheMidwest’slargestoutdoor seasonalfleamarket,where700vendorscover40 acresofland,sellingeverythingfromhomedecor andclothingtoplantsandtools.Ifyoulovethespirit ofcompetitionfeltataliveauction,you’llwantto visitonWednesdaysfortheShipshewanaTrading PlaceAuction. Thereisnootherplacewithasmanybargainsorcool finds.Comebrowsevendorboothslocatedin Indiana’sAmishCountryonTuesdaysand WednesdaysfromMaythroughSeptember.
Capitalofthecountry.That’s because80percentofthenation’s recreationalvehicles(RVs)are manufacturedinElkhartCounty. NameslikeWinnebago,Jayco, Renegade,GulfStream,Heartland, Allianceandmoreareallhere. Andmanyofferfactorytoursfor bothgroupsandindividuals. RVenthusiastswillenjoytouringlocalRVfactories. TheycanalsovisittheRV/MHHeritageMuseum.Its missionistorecognize,preserve,andhonorthe
ofin-seasonplantsandlocalproduce.On Wednesdays,placeabidattheweekly,year-round Antique&MiscellaneousAuctionwhere6to10 auctioneerssimultaneouslysellthousandsof antiques,collectibles,primitives andmore.Restaurantonsite servingupdeliciousAmish/
Byways28
Besuretoshopthe“farmer’smarket”foraselection Mennonitecooking. Nation’sRVCapital
FactoryToursinthe
here,there’smore.Infact,Elkhart
Ifyou’verunoutofthingstodo CountyIndianaiscalledtheRV
Byways29 history,pioneers,andindividualswhohavebeen instrumentalinmakingtheRecreationalVehicleand ManufacturedHousingindustrieswhattheyare today. Tolearnmore,visit: www.VisitElkhartCounty.com/groups tt
Byways30 t TravelingtheHighways&Byways withBillGraves SouthernIndiana, southboundon Highway162:Ijust wentbytheNancyHanks LincolnSchool,areminder thatthisisthehometurfof our16thpresident.Nancy LincolnwasAbeLincoln’s mother.Sheisburiedafew mileseastofhereatthe LincolnBoyhoodNational Memorial. Thehighwaymakesaturn intoSantaClausand becomesChristmasBoulevard.PassingtheHoliday WorldandSplashin’Safari—whereevenonthis 90-degreeday,theparkinglotisfull-Iturnedonto HolidayBoulevard.JustbeyondtheSilentNight Café,packetsoffirewoodarestackednexttotheroad offeredonthehonorsystem. EveryfewminutestheRavenRollercoaster,at HolidayWorld,swoopsrightdownnexttothe surfaceofthelakeatabout60milesanhour. SantaClaus,Indiana
andpictureareeverywhere.ThehotelisSanta’s Lodge.EventheCatholicChurchisnamedSaint Nicholas.
This155-yearoldtownofSantaClaushas2,200 residents.TheOhioRiverisjustsouthofhere.The closestbigcityisLouisville,KY,aboutanhour away. Itsgasstation,grocerystore,and postofficeareintheKringlePlace ShoppingCenter,whichisas “downtown”asthisplacegets.Its centerpieceisa50-footconeof lights–theycallitSanta’sLED Christmastree.Itrunsa choreographedlightshow,setto Christmasmusic,everynightatnine. DuringtheChristmasSeason,the 15-minuteshowrunshourly. SantaClaus,instatueform,standsin frontofthepostofficeholdinga Christmaspackageoverhishead toutingzipcode47579.Andwellhe should.Thisishistown.Hisname
Byways31
RobertRipley,inhisnationally-syndicated“Believe ItorNot”newspapercartoon,broughtworld attentiontotheSantaClauspostoffice.Hewrote thatinthisvillageof50people,“ThePostmasteracts as‘Santa’andmailedout100,000letters.”Thatwas in1929. “WehandleaboutahalfmillionpiecesofChristmas mail,”GeriFergusontoldme.“Andmostofitgets cancelledbyhand.”Shehasworkedinthepost officeherefor26years.Thecancellationstamp–theycallitapicturepostmark–isabitsmallerthana deckofcards.
“Everyyearit’sredesigned.Butitalwayssays ‘SantaClausStation’andhasSantaonit.Theyruna contestatthehighschoolamongtheseniorart students.Theteacherbringsinthepictorialartfor thestampandwepickthewinner.Andthat depictiongoesallovertheworld.
“We’vegotthreepeople.Anditgetsreallyhectic aroundhere.Kidscomeinwiththeirparents,usually thesameoneseveryyear.Weletthemhand-cancel alltheirChristmascards,upto20-a-dayanyway.
StartingaboutThanksgiving,peoplesendustheir Christmascardstobepostmarkedandmailed.All weaskisthatthecardshavetheproperpostage.” AndthentherearetheletterstoSanta.Theycomein fromalloverbythethousands.Santa’saddressis POBox1,SantaClaus,IN47579.Santa’sElves,a groupofvolunteers,answersthem–everyone. FromthewoodyhillsofIndiana,fromSantaClaus, whereeverymorningisChristmasmorning–Merry Christmas. Abouttheauthor: Afterseeingmuchoftheworld asacareernavalofficer,BillGravesdecided,afterhe retired,totakeacloserlookattheUnitedStates.He hasbeenroamingthecountryfor20years,muchofit inamotorhomewithhisdogRusty.Helivesin RanchoPalosVerdes,Californiaandistheauthorof OntheBackRoads,DiscoveringSmallTownsof America Hecanbereachedat Roadscribe@aol.com
.
.
Byways32
Byways33
Byways34
Byways35
Byways36 T
LocatedadjacenttotheLakeoftheOzarks,Truman featuresexcellentfishing,aregionalvisitorcenter andpowerplantexhibitarea.Ruggedhills,scenic bluffs,hardwoodforestandprairieoffersomeofthe bestsceneryinthestate.
OriginallynamedKaysingerBluffDamand Reservoir,constructionbeganinAugust1964.Itwas renamedtheHarryS.TrumanDamandReservoir,in honoroftheformerpresidentfromMissouri,by Congressin1970.Constructionwascompletedin 1979. TheKaysingernamereferstothebluffimmediately northnexttowherethedamwaseventually constructed.Theblufforcliff,apopularlandmark evenbeforethedam,overlookedtheconfluenceof theSouthGrandRiver,TeboCreekandtheOsage River. VisitorCenter
TheHarryS.TrumanVisitorCentersitshighatop KaysingerBluff,overlookingTrumanDamandthe OsageRiver.Itisoneof10CorpsClassAvisitor centersintheUnitedStatesandshowcasesTruman Lake,aswellasallotherlakesintheKansasCity District. Morethan50,000peoplevisitannuallytolearnabout TrumanLakeandthesurroundingarea.Exhibits demonstratesocialandnaturalhistoryoftheareato howhydroelectricpoweriscreatedtoartwork depictingscenesofyesteryeartothelake’smultiple purposes:hydroelectricpowergeneration,fishand
TheU.S.ArmyCorpsofEngineersbuiltand managesthelakeanddam.Itisusedprimarilyfor floodcontrol.Itisalsousedforpowergeneration, recreation,andwildlifemanagement.Truman Reservoiristhelargestfloodcontrolreservoirin Missouri,withastoragecapacityofmorethan5 millionacre-feet.
heHarryS.TrumanReservoir,alsoknownas TrumanLake,islocatedinMissouri.Itsits betweenClintonandWarsaw,ontheOsage RiverandextendssouthtoOsceola.Itisthelargest lakeinMissouri.
Byways37 wildlifemanagement,recreationalopportunities,and primarily—floodcontrol. A67-seattheatershowswildlife,historyandwater safetyvideosbyrequest.Theobservationdeckoffers viewsofTrumanLakeandpartoftheLakeofthe Ozarks,aswellasthedam. Parkrangersprovidescheduledtourstostudentand tourgroupsandalsoeducatethepublicregarding watersafetyateverypossibleopportunity.The centeroffersanimpressivearrayofbrochures,maps, andwatersafetypromotionalitems.Whetherfolks needinformationoncamping,boatramplocations, huntingareasorsimplywheretograblunch,Visitor Centerstaffarereadytoassist. Recreation TrumanLakeisthelargestfloodcontrollakein Missouri.Itcoversabout55,000acres.Over8,000
TherearemanymilesofCorpslandsurroundingthe TrumanLake,whichprovideshometowhitetail deer,turkey,waterfowl,andsmallgame,aswellas winteringbaldeagles.
Thelakeprovidesampleopportunitytocatchall speciesoffishandthesmalltownofWarsaw,at times,hasbeenreferredtoasthe“spoonbillcapital oftheworld”.Inadditiontorecreationalfishing, TrumanLakealsoplayshosttonumerous tournamentseachyearwiththemostfamousbeing the1989B.A.S.SMissouriInvitational,andmost
TheTrumanLakeoffersawidevarietyofhunting, fishingandwildlifeviewingopportunities.Halfof the110,000acreprojectlieswithinthehillsand hollowsoftheOzarksregion.Beautifulrockbluffs andmatureoaktimbermakeupthemajorityofthe easternsideoftheLake,whilethewesternhalf transitionsintoMidwestprairie.
Byways38 acresofstandingtimberwereleftinthelaketo provideaquatichabitat.Ithassomeofthebest crappie,catfish,bass,andhybridfishingyearround.
recently,the2015BowfishingWorld Championship. HarryS.TrumanStatePark HarryS.TrumanStateParkisapublic recreationareaoccupying1,440acresona peninsulaonTrumanLake,a55,000-acre impoundmentoftheOsageRiver,near Warsaw,Missouri.Thestateparkoffers boating,fishing,swimming,hikingtrails, andcampgrounds. Recreationaldevelopmentisextensive. Twentyparksandaccessareas,managed byorleasedfromtheU.S.ArmyCorpsof Engineers,areconvenientlylocated aroundthereservoir. ParksatTrumanReservoirofferawide varietyofrecreationfacilitiesincluding boatlaunchingramps,campgrounds,full servicemarinas,picnicareas,andsand swimmingbeaches.Fivemarinasare locatedonTrumanLakeofferingavariety ofboatingsuppliesandservices. https://www.go-missouri.com/TrumanLake
Byways39
Byways40
Byways41
TheTennesseeRiveristhelargesttributaryofthe OhioRiver.ItislocatedinthesoutheasternUnited StatesintheTennesseeValley.Theriverwasonce popularlyknownastheCherokeeRiver,amongother names,astheCherokeepeoplehadtheirhomelands alongitsbanks,especiallyinwhatarenoweast TennesseeandnorthernAlabama.Inaddition,its tributary,theLittleTennesseeRiver,flowsintoit fromwesternNorthCarolinaandnortheastern Georgia,whereitalsowasborderedbynumerous Cherokeetowns.
lowing652milesthroughthesevenstatesof Virginia,Georgia,NorthCarolina,Alabama, Kentucky,MississippiandTennessee,the TennesseeRiverderivesitsnamefromtheCherokee townofTanasi.Animportantriver“highway”for travel,commerce,andexploration,theareawas settledasearlyas8000yearsagoandexploredby Spanishexpeditionsin1540.
History OneofthebloodiestbattlesoftheCivilWar,Shiloh, wasfoughtonthewestbankoftheTennesseeRiver atPittsburgLanding,inApril1862. Theriverwasalsoknownfortreacheroustraveland fordevastatingfloodingincommunitieslocatedon itsshores.AspartofFDR’sNewDeal,the TennesseeValleyAuthoritybegandammingtheriver toimprovenavigationandtocontrolflooding,while alsobringingelectrificationandjobstotheValley. In1936,theUnifiedDevelopmentoftheTennessee RiverSystemplanlaidoutthetacticsbywhichTVA wouldbuilddamstotransformthepoverty-stricken, often-floodedValleyintoamodern,electrifiedand developedsliceofAmerica.ItalsoprovidedTVA withanidentityandavisionthatdrivesthecompany today. TVAhaspartneredwiththestatesandlocal governmentsand,intheprocess,helpedtotransform aregion.Anentireriversystemhasbeencontrolled andputtowork.Astairwayofninedamsand reservoirsprovideacontinuousnine-footnavigation channelpermittingthemovementofmillionsoftons ofcommercialfreighttrafficannually.
Byways42
F
than200speciesoffish,includingseveral endangeredorthreatenedspecies.
Thereare100plusspeciesoffreshwatermussels livinginthewatershed,alongwithendangered plants,birds,batsandsalamanders.The ConservationFundconsiderstheTennesseeRiver Basintobethesinglemostbiologicallydiverseriver systemforaquaticorganismsintheUnitedStates.
Byways43
TheTennesseeRiverisoneofthemostecologically importantriversystemsinthecountry.Birdingisa popularactivityduetomigrationandnestingof manyspeciesofbirdsthatarefoundhereincluding eagles,cranes,andherons.Theriverishometomore
TheBattleofChattanoogawasfoughtonnearby LookoutMountain.Chattanoogaisalsowellknown fortheChattanoogaChoo-Choo,itstransformation fromadecliningearlyindustrialcitytoathriving moderncity,thefamousDeltaQueen,andthefirst publiclyavailableonegigabitpersecondInternet accessfromamunicipally-ownedutilitiescompany, i.e.theElectricPowerBoard(EPB),intheUnited States.
RiverboatHighway
TheTennesseeRiverhashistoricallybeenamajor highwayforriverboatsthroughtheSouth,andtoday theyarefrequentlyusedalongtheriver.Majorports includeGuntersville,Chattanooga,Decatur,Yellow Creek,andMuscleShoals.Thisriverhascontributed greatlytotheeconomicandindustrialdevelopment oftheTennesseeValleyasawhole.Theeconomies ofcitiessuchasDecaturandChattanoogawouldnot beasdynamicastheyaretoday,wereitnotforthe TennesseeRiver.Manycompaniesstillrelyonthe riverasameansoftransportationfortheirmaterials. InChattanooga,forexample,steelisexportedon boats,asitismuchmoreefficientthanmovingiton land. Inaddition,locksalongtheTennesseeRiver waterwayprovidepassagebetweenreservoirsfor morethan13,000recreationalcrafteachyear.The rivernotonlyhasmanyeconomicfunctions,suchas theboatbuildingindustryandtransportation,butit alsoprovideswaterandnaturalresourcestothose wholiveneartheriver.Manyofthemajorportson theriverareconnectedtoasettlementthatwas startedbecauseofitsproximitytotheriver.
CitiesAlongtheRiver Chattanooga,Tennessee,about120milesfromboth HuntsvilleandKnoxville,inoppositedirections,is nicknamed“TheScenicCity”foritsbeautifulviews oftheTennesseeValleyfromatopthemany mountaintopsthatsurroundthecity.Chattanoogaand itssuburbsformthesecondmostpopulous metropolitanareainthevalley.
Decatur,Alabama, knownas“TheRiverCity”, dominatedtheeconomiclandscapeofnorthAlabama untilthelate1950s,when thespaceracecatapulted itsneighborHuntsville intothatposition.For mostofthe20thcentury uptothatpoint,Decatur heldthetoppositionin termsofeconomic impactandpopulation. Itsmixtureofriver transportandrailaccess hasmadeitabusyhubof business,commerce,and manufacturing (chemicalsandtextiles especially)flowingdown theriveronthebarges andboatsofnumerous companiesanddocking atthePortofDecatur. Decaturalsoclaimsthe nickname“TheHeartof theValley”becauseofits locationneartheexact centerofthelengthofthe
Elizabethton,Tennessee,isasmallcityformerly knownbythemoniker“TheCityofPower”priorto thepostWorldWarIIeraofnuclearpower production.ItislocatedattheconfluenceoftheDoe RiverandWataugaRiverdownstreamfromthe WataugaReservoirandtheWilburReservoir.Both aremaintainedbytheTennesseeValleyAuthority (TVA).
Byways44 TennesseeRiver.Alsobecausemostnorth/south shippingtrafficisfunneledthroughthetownutilizing threerivercrossingsthataremainroutesforrailand roadtrafficbetweenBirminghamandNashville.The cityisalsoanimportantriverportthatuses intermodalfacilitiestoswitchshippingmethods betweentrains,trucks,andbarges.
Florence,Alabama,consideredpartoftheShoals withMuscleShoals,Sheffield,andTuscumbia,is locatedimmediatelyacrosstheTennesseeRiverfrom MuscleShoals.FlorenceisthebirthplaceofW.C. HandyandiswheretheonlyFrankLloydWright designedhouseinAlabamaislocated,the RosenbaumHouse. Guntersville,Alabama,isamajorcityofnortheast Alabamaandhasamajorlakeandriverport,Lake GuntersvilleandthePortofGuntersville, respectively.Thecityisfamousforbeingtheplace whereRickyNelsonplayedhislastconcertbefore dyinginaplanecrashonNewYear’sEve1986. Huntsville,Alabama,nicknamed“theRocketCity”, hasrisentobethecenterofnorthAlabamaeconomic activitysincethedawnofthespaceageinthe1950s. ItisnowthelargestcityinAlabama.Itsaerospace andmilitarytechnologycentersofRedstoneArsenal, CummingsResearchPark,andNASA’sMarshall
Byways45
Knoxville,Tennessee,themostpopulous metropolitanareaintheValley,iswherethe TennesseeRiverbeginsattheconfluenceofthe HolstonandtheFrenchBroadRivers.Knoxville alongwithnearbyOakRidgeandMaryvilleAlcoa,formamajorresearchandmanufacturing corridoranchoredbytheUniversityofTennessee, theOakRidgeNationalLaboratory,andthe TennesseeValleyAuthorityheadquarters(since 1980).
MuscleShoalsisfamousforits1960sMuscle ShoalsSound,producedatsuchstudiosasFAME StudiosandMuscleShoalsSoundStudio,where manyfamousmusiciansandbands,suchasAretha
SpaceFlightCenterdefinethehigh-techlandscape forAlabama.
ClarkofLewis&Clarkfame,Paducah’ssignificant Americanheritagecanbetracedtothecity’s strategiclocationattheconfluenceoftheOhioand TennesseeRivers.
MuscleShoals,Alabama,consideredpartofthe ShoalsalongwithFlorence,Sheffield,and Tuscumbia,isamajorcityofnorthwestAlabama, alongU.S.Route72andAlabama157.Thecityis locatedimmediatelyacrosstheTennesseeRiver fromFlorence.
Franklin,BobDylan,andTheRollingStones,also haverecordedandproducednumeroussongs. TuscumbiaisthebirthplaceofHelenKeller.The originalCongressionalActcreatingthegovernment ownedTennesseeValleyAuthority,May,1933, designatedthegovernmentreservationatWilson DamasthelocationfortheheadquartersoftheTVA. In1980,acourtorderreassignedtheheadquartersto Knoxville. Scottsboro,Alabama,about63milesfrom Chattanoogaandnicknamed“theFriendlyCity”,is locatedonHighway72,40mileseastofHuntsville. Itwasfoundedinthemid-1850sandismostfamous fortheScottsboroBoysandtheUnclaimedBaggage Center,aswellas“FirstMonday,”anopen-air marketplaceheldinandarounddowntownon Mondaysfollowingthefirstweekendofthemonth.
Paducah,Kentucky.Foundedin1827byWilliam
Byways46
Byways47
TheAllegheny’sheadwatersbeginjustbelowthe middleofPennsylvania’snorthernborder,flowinto NewYorkthenzigzagssouthwesterlyacrossthe borderandthroughwesternPennsylvaniatojointhe MonongahelaRiverattheForksoftheOhioonthe “Point”ofPointStateParkindowntownPittsburgh. TheAlleghenyRiveris,byvolume,themain headstreamofboththeOhioandMississippiRivers. Historically,theAlleghenywasconsideredtobethe upperOhioRiverbybothNativeAmericansand Europeansettlers.
Pennsylvania.ItfirstflowspastWarren,Tidioute, Tionesta,OilCity,andFranklin,formingmuchof thenorthwesternboundaryofAlleghenyNational Forest.SouthofFranklinitturnssoutheastacross ClarionCountyinameanderingcourse,thenturns againsouthwestacrossArmstrongCounty,flowing pastKittanning,FordCity,Clinton,andFreeport. OilDiscovered In1859,thefirstpetroleumintheUnitedStateswas drillednorthoftheriveratTitusville.Titusvilleis knownasthebirthplaceoftheAmericanoilindustry andforanumberofyearswastheleadingoilproducingregionintheworld.
TheDrakeWellMuseumandParkisamuseumthat interpretsthebirthoftheAmericanoilindustryand sitsalongthebanksofOilCreek.Themuseum collectsandpreservesrelatedartifacts.The reconstructedDrakeWelldemonstratesthefirst
Byways48 TheAlleghenyRiverBasinflows315milesand occupies11,747squaremilesinthestatesof NewYorkandPennsylvania.Itcontributes60 percentoftheOhioRiverflowatPittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Itflowsinabroadcoursesouthwestacrosswestern
PointStatePark.TheAlleghenyjoinswiththe MonongahelaRiveratthe“Point”indowntown PittsburghtoformtheOhioRiver.
Byways49
Duringthe19thcentury,theriverbecameaprincipal meansofnavigationintheupperOhioValley, especiallyforthetransportofcoal.Therailroads lessenedtheimportanceoftheriversomewhat.The lowerriver(navigableasfarasEastBrady, Pennsylvaniathroughlocks)hascontinuedtoserve asarouteofcommercialtransportation.
ItpassestheNorthSide,downtownPittsburgh,and
Theshallowriverhasbeenmadenavigableupstream fromPittsburghtoEastBradybyaseriesoflocks anddamsconstructedintheearly20thcentury.A24milelongportionoftheupperriverinWarrenand McKeancountiesofPennsylvaniaandCattaraugus CountyinNewYorkistheAlleghenyReservoir, createdbytheerectionoftheKinzuaDamin1965 forfloodcontrol.
practicaluseofsaltdrillingtechniquesforthe extractionofpetroleumthroughanoilwell. Onceoilwasdiscovered,nearbyFranklinbecamea boomingoiltown.OneofAmerica’smostinfamous villains,JohnWilkesBooth,AbrahamLincoln’s assassin,formedanoilcompanyinFranklinin1864 andresidedtherewhileperformingattheFranklin OperaHouse.OilproductioninPennsylvania peakedin1891.
TheHighlandParkBridgecrossestheAllegheny RiveratAspinwall,Pennsylvania,justabove AlleghenyRiverLockandDamNo.2. TheriverentersbothAlleghenyandWestmoreland counties,thePittsburghsuburbs,andtheCityof Pittsburghfromthenortheast.
Byways50
Thedamfloodedpartsof landsdeeded“forever”tothe SenecaNationofIndiansby the1794Treatyof Canandaigua,andlands giventoSenecaChief Cornplanterandhis descendants. Theeventwasdescribedin theJohnnyCashsong“As LongastheGrassShall Grow”fromthe1964album BitterTears:Balladsofthe AmericanIndian, which focusedonthehistoryofandproblemsfacingNative AmericansintheUnitedStates.
Byways52 KinzuaDam In1965,thecompletionofthefederallysponsored KinzuaDamforfloodcontrolinnorthwestern PennsylvaniaeastofWarren createdthelongAllegheny Reservoir,knownasLake PerfidyamongtheSeneca, partofwhichisincludedin theAlleghenyNational RecreationArea.
Byways53
hileCalaverasCounty,locatedin California’s“GoldCountry”isayear-round recreationaldestination,themagicofthe localcavesisalluringallyear-round.
W
The CelebratedJumpingFrogofCalaverasCounty. CavesofCalaverasCounty
Therecreationalstimuliabovegroundismatchedby theabundanceofundergroundtreasuresfoundinthe cavesofCalaverasCounty.Steepstaircasesleadto narrowpassagewaysandchambersfilledwith stalagmites,stalactitesandotherfeatures.
Formedmillionsofyearsago,thelimestoneand marblecavesareworthavisitanytimeofyear, especiallyduringthehotsummersandcoldwinters.
TuckedawaybetweenYosemiteNationalParkand LakeTahoe,CalaverasCountyisadornedwith rollinghillsthatarepepperedwithvineyardsand framedwithalpinelakesandrivers.
Byways54
TherearethreeprimarycavesinCalaverasCounty thatareopentothepublic,includingMoaning
Thefourseasonsbringabountyofoutdooractivities includingeverythingfromhikingamongstgiant sequoiasandengaginginwatersportstosnowplay and,well,cavedwelling.Additionally,the destinationisknownforitsannualFrogJumping Competition,madefamousbyMarkTwain’s
Byways55 CavernsinVallecito,MercerCavernsinMurphys andCaliforniaCaverninMountainRanch.Eachof thesecavesofferswalkingtours.
Duringthetour,visitorsmighthearadistinct “moaning”thatcomesfromaneeriesound heardinplacescreatedbywaterdripping intoflowstoneformations,notfromthe spiritsofunhappycavepeople. Theaforementioned100-footspiralstaircase with144stairs,builtin1922outofthehull ofaWorldWarIbattleship,isstillusedby visitorstoday.Moaning Caverns’formationshaveedgy monikerssuchas“Godzilla’s Nostril”and“MeatGrinder”. Thecaveoffersafamilywalking touraswellasanAdventure caveexcursioninspelunker jumpsuitsandhelmets. MoaningCaverns,5350 MoaningCaveRoad,Vallecito, CA;209-736-2708. Dailywalkingtours,knownas theSpiraltour,startat9am. NOTE:pleasecheckwebsitefor updates). moaningcaverns.com
MoaningCavernsAdventurePark’s earliest wasrediscoveredin 1851byminerslookingfor gold,butthesteepentranceandlackof preciousmetalsmeantthatitwouldbe forgottenforanother70years.Intheearly 1920saspiralstaircasewasadded,andit wasofficiallyopenedforthepublicasa showcave.
MercerCaverns islessthantwomilesfrom Murphys’bustlingMainStreet,whichisfullof boutiqueshopsandwinetastingrooms. Amongthosewhocame
Thetourincludes440steps,208downand232up (usingadifferentpaththanthedescent).Thereare formationsthatresembleaShihTzu,ajellyfishanda mermaidaswellasdelicatefrostlikecrystalsknown asaragoniteflosferri(ironflowers).Visitorscan expectarangeofilluminationwithtransitionsof candlelighttototaldarkness.
Byways56
lessthantwoweekslater.Thefirstvisitorstouredthe cavernsusingropesandladdersandholdingintheir teethaboardwithcandles.Thankfully,today’stours haveevolvedwithafewmoderntouches,including walkways,stairsandelectriclighting.
Becauseofthetightquartersontheclimbbackup thesteepstaircase,sturdyfootwearisrecommended. MercerCaverns,1665SheepRanchRoad,Murphys; 209-728-2101,Opendaily;firsttourdepartsabout 9:30am. mercercaverns.net
CaliforniaCavern isopenseasonallyandisabouta 40-minutedrivefromMurphysandwellworththe trek.Hostingvisitorssincetheearly1850s,someof thoseoriginalvisitorsincludednaturalistJohnMuir andwriterMarkTwain.
Byways57 Thecavewasan essentialpartofanold GoldRushcamp calledCaveCity. Weddings,church services,courttrials andpartiesoncetook placeinsidethecave. Thetourbeginsby wanderingthrougha marblepassageway intoCouncil Chambers,where somesignaturesfrom the1800scanbe viewed.Markingone’s “territory”onthewalls usedtobe commonplace,which isevidencedby thousandsof signatures. Itisencouragedtouse one’simagination whendiscoveringthedifferentfiguresinthecavern, includingonelargestalagmiteinBishop’sPalace, wherechurchsermonsonceweregiven. IntheCathedralRoom,“cavebacon”hangsfromthe ceilingandisilluminatedfrombehind.This particularcalciteformationliterallylookslikestrips ofbacon. CaliforniaCavernofferstwocavewalkingtours dependingonthetimeofyear,includingtheTrailof LightsTourinsummerandfallandtheTrailof LakesTourinthewinterandspring.Visitorswill alsotourotherpartsofthecave,includingtheBridal Chamber,BedofNailsandtheJungleRoom. CaliforniaCavern,9565CaveCityRoad,Mountain Ranch;209-754-1850.Opens10amdaily,withtours onthehour. cavetouring.com
Byways58 Bywaysispublishedbi-monthlybyByways,Inc.and distributedelectronicallythroughoutNorthAmerica. Bywaysisemailedtomorethan5,000touroperators andTravelTrade.Subscriptionsarecomplimentary. AniPad&iPhoneversionisavailableforconsumers intheAppStore.AnAndroidbrowserversionis availableat www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’distributionincludesmotorcoach companies,touroperators,selectedtravelagents,and othergrouptourtravelpromoters.Itisalsoavailable toconsumerswithaninterestinNorthAmerican travel.Foradvertisingrates,editorialdeadlines,orto placeadvertisinginsertions,contact:Byways Magazineat540-233-1121. ©Copyright2022byByways,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Noportionofthispublicationmaybeduplicatedin anyformwithoutexpresswrittenpermissionofthe publisher. 540-233-1121 Advertising Editor&Publisher StephenM.Kirchner bywaysmagazine.com Internet stephen.kirchner@gmail.com BywaysonFacebook BywaysonTwitter DirectTVStream..............................................................................................................................33 ElkhartCountyTourism,Indiana..................................................................................................5 GeneracHomeStandbyGenerator...............................................................................................15 SpringfieldTourism,Illinois...........................................................................................................9 SullivanCatskillsVisitorsAssociation,NewYork.......................................................................6 WheelingTourism,WestVirginia..................................................................................................2
