Byways Ocean Views 2021

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Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations


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Preview

By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

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elcome to Byways annual Oceans issue. The Battle of Yorktown in Virginia proved to be the decisive and final battle of the American Revolutionary War. American General George Washington was staging for an assault on British troops in New York City. It was thought to be a hopeless effort, as the British had superior numbers and were firmly entrenched. But Washington had another plan. He secretly moved thousands of American and French troops south to Virginia, and instead attacked the British Army of the South, lead by General Lord Cornwallis. The British were totally caught off guard, and soon found themselves surrounded on land by American and French troops, and on water, with a complete French ship embargo. The rest is history. With its 182 miles of Virginia beaches, 270 miles of biking trails, over twenty breweries and numerous independently-owned eateries, Norfolk and Virginia Beach have become a magnet for beachgoers, adventure seekers and foodie connoisseurs. We spend 36 hours here, exploring the trails of Norfolk and touring the oceanfront wonders of Virginia Beach. Next, we take the road to nearby Hampton, Virginia and experience historic museums, forts, and sites that illustrate the perseverance of the human spirit. In 2019, Hampton commemorated the 400th anniversary of the first African landing in English North America. Now, you can experience Hampton’s rich African American heritage sites on the 400 Years Forward tour. Last year most areas of the country dependent on tourism took a direct hit from the pandemic. But on Alabama’s Gulf Coast, not only did they have to contend with a pandemic, the area took a second Byways 4

direct hit, this one from a hurricane. Hurricane Sally was the first hurricane to make landfall since Ivan in 2004. The Alabama Gulf Coast is rebuilding and reopening, and if you’re willing to brave the challenges, there are many activities to enjoy on Alabama’s beaches. Averaging 345 days of sunshine per year, Long Beach, California, with its comfortable Mediterranean climate, is an ideal escape to defrost in winter or cool off in summer. Located just 20 miles from downtown Los Angeles, it offers a smorgasbord of water sports including kayaking, water skiing, motor boating, paddle boarding, kite surfing and personal water crafts. Whale-watching excursions are popular and harbor cruises tour the historic waterfront skies all year long. Docked at the Port of Long Beach, the Queen Mary is the icon of Long Beach tourism. It was purchased by the city in 1967 after serving as the fastest and most elegant ship afloat during the heyday of trans-Atlantic travel. In What’s Happening, FlyOver, an immersive flight ride will debut this fall on the Las Vegas Strip. A 52foot vibrant spherical screen will surround guests as they glide through picturesque destinations including the Grand Canyon, Zion and Arches National Parks, Lake Tahoe and more seen from a first-person perspective in sharp, stunning high definition. Two iconic Kentucky attractions are teaming up to offer a tour that takes visitors behind-the-scenes of a Thoroughbred farm. The Hermitage Farm Tour begins at the Kentucky Derby Museum, where a tour guide accompanies guests to the world-famous racetrack at Churchill Downs. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

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Volume 38, Issue No. 3 2021 Overlooking the York River in Yorktown, Virginia, is the Yorktown Victory Monument, which memorializes the end of the American Revolution. For more on the Battle of Yorktown, turn to page 8. Photo courtesy Ken Lund and Wikipedia Commons CC BY-SA 2.0.

Features The Battle of Yorktown .......................................................................................................................... 8 36 Hours in Norfolk & Virginia Beach .................................................................................................. 12 Hampton 400 Years Forward, African American Heritage Tour ........................................................... 20 Alabama’s Gulf Coast Reopening ....................................................................................................... 28 Long Beach, California ........................................................................................................................ 36

Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 51

What’s Happening Las Vegas FlyOver .............................................................................................................................. 42 Horse Racing/Bourbon Heritage Showcased in Kentucky .................................................................. 44

Coming in Future Issues Future issues of Byways will feature . . .Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges and more . . .

Next Up: Rivers & Lakes

Whitewater rafting on the Chattahoochee River in Georgia. Photo courtesy Whitewater Express.

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he Battle of Yorktown proved to be the decisive engagement of the American Revolution. The British surrender forecast the end of British rule in the colonies and the birth of a new nation—the United States of America.

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supplies to the United States all along, but after France and England declared war against each other in 1778, French King Louis XVI sent troops and naval assistance to the United States to engage the enemy.

After six years of war, both the British and Continental armies were exhausted. The British, in hostile territory, held only a few coastal areas in America. On the other side of the Atlantic, Britain was also waging a global war with France and Spain. For the colonies, the long struggle for independence was leading to enormous debt, food shortages, and a lack of morale among the soldiers. Both sides were desperately seeking a definitive victory.

When Rochambeau’s forces arrived, the British were operating on two fronts. General Clinton, commander of British forces in North America, was occupying New York City after a largely unsuccessful attempt to control the northern and middle colonies. General Lord Cornwallis was leading through the southern colonies an army that had already captured Savannah and Charleston. The main American army under Washington was stationed along the Hudson River above New York City.

In the summer of 1780, the Americans received a major boost to their cause when 5,500 French troops, commanded by Comte de Rochambeau, arrived at Newport, Rhode Island. France had been sending

In the spring of 1781, Washington traveled to Rhode Island to meet with Comte de Rochambeau and plan an attack on Clinton. A French fleet was expected to arrive in New York later that summer, and

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Washington wanted to coordinate the attack with the fleet’s arrival. As planned, Rochambeau’s army marched in July and joined with Washington’s troops outside New York City, only to learn that the French fleet was sailing to the lower Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. Washington changed his strategy to make Clinton think he was planning to attack him, while instead sneaking away to the south to trap Cornwallis. In order to fool Clinton, Washington had his men build big army camps and huge brick bread ovens visible from New York to give the appearance of preparations for a stay. Washington also prepared false papers under his signature discussing plans for an attack on Clinton, and let these papers fall into British hands. Leaving a small force behind, Washington and Rochambeau set out for Yorktown in mid-August. By early September they were parading before the Continental Congress in Philadelphia, and they arrived in Williamsburg, 13 miles west of Yorktown, in mid September. Cornwallis was in Yorktown because he had been

ordered by Clinton during the summer to provide a protected harbor for the British fleet in the lower Chesapeake Bay. Cornwallis chose Yorktown because of its deep-water harbor on the York River. His army spent the latter part of the summer fortifying Yorktown and Gloucester Point across the York River. The French fleet, as part of the overall plan, entered the lower Chesapeake Bay in the end of August and disembarked 3,000 French troops to wait for Washington and Rochambeau in Williamsburg. On September 5, they encountered the British fleet in a naval engagement known as the Battle of the Capes. The British suffered damage to their ships and returned to New York, while the French, commanded by Admiral de Grasse, remained in the lower Chesapeake and established a blockade. By the end of September, approximately 17,600 American and French soldiers were gathered in Williamsburg, while 8,300 British soldiers were occupying Yorktown. The Americans and French marched from Williamsburg to Yorktown on September 28 and

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began digging a trench 800 yards from the British defense line to begin a siege. By October 9, the allies’ trench was finished and their artillery had been moved up. Firing at the British continuously, they had virtually knocked the British guns out of action by October 11. Realizing the situation was hopeless, Cornwallis sent forth a British drummer on October 17, followed by a British officer with a white flag and note indicating a request for a cease fire. A number of notes passed between Cornwallis and Washington that day as they set the framework for the surrender. The next day, October 18, four officers – one American, one French Byways 10

and two British – met at the Moore House, one mile outside Yorktown, to settle surrender terms.


News of the British defeat at Yorktown spread quickly. Celebrations took place throughout the United States. London was shocked. The British prisoners were marched to prison camps in Winchester, Virginia and Frederick, Maryland. The American army returned to the Hudson River, while the French army remained in Yorktown and Williamsburg for the winter. Clinton and Cornwallis eventually returned to England where they engaged in a long and bitter public controversy over who was to blame for the British defeat at Yorktown. The Battle of Yorktown was the last major engagement of the American Revolution (1775-1783). Following the Battle at Yorktown and Cornwallis’s surrender, the British Parliament, in March 1782, passed a resolution calling for the nation to end the war. “Oh God, it is all over!” Prime Minister Frederick North exclaimed upon hearing of the Yorktown surrender. On October 19, in a spectacle incredible to all who witnessed it, most of Cornwallis’ army marched out of Yorktown between two lines of allied soldiers – Americans on one side and French on the other – that stretched for more than one mile. The British marched to a field where they laid down their arms, and returned to Yorktown. They did not know that on that very day, Clinton sailed for Yorktown from New York with 5,000 troops.

The British still had 30,000 men in North America, occupying the seaports of New York, Charlestown and Savannah. But the demoralizing loss at Yorktown diminished the British will to continue to fight the rebels. On September 3, 1783, the Revolutionary War came to an official end with the signing of the Treaty of Paris. Byways 11


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anderlust is defined as a strong desire to travel, but in Virginia, they call that feeling WanderLove. To fill this desire, set out on an epic road trip to Norfolk and the neighboring city Virginia Beach! With its 182 miles of beaches, 270 miles of biking trails, over twenty breweries and numerous independently-owned eateries, the two cities have become a magnet for beachgoers, adventure seekers and foodie connoisseurs. The combination of all the attractions and museums brings you the widest range of entertainment and appreciation of world-class art. You won’t be able to see it all and will end up making some tough choices along the way. The good news is that you can’t go wrong in what you choose to do and can always return for another visit! With these 36 hours, you’ll explore the trails of Norfolk and tour the Oceanfront wonders of Virginia Beach, all packed with foodie hot spots, eclectic art and historic sites. Byways 14

Norfolk To give you a sense of the coastal city that is deeply rooted in history with southern charm, hop on the Elizabeth River Trail (ERT), a 10.5-mile pedestrian and bikeable pathway that takes you through multiple neighborhoods and intertwines with Norfolk’s Cannonball Trail (a self-guided walking tour with over 400 years of historic features). If you opt to walk, you will notice the finer details along the way, whereas biking will help you achieve more scenic mileage. From downtown, the ERT will lead you along the waterfront and through the cobblestone streets of the Freemason District where the Virginia Cheese Co. can be found to create your own cheese board and wine on tap. Or, if you meander just around the corner, you’ll find Four Eleven York Restaurant where you can enjoy an afternoon cocktail. Try their Collins, made with cucumber sage simple syrup, blood orange juice and Citadelle Gin topped with soda and garnished with an orange and fresh sage from their garden.


If you continue down the ERT, you will find yourself in the Chelsea neighborhood with Benchtop and Smartmouth Brewery and a delicious beer and cider bar called The Birch. The craft brews in this neighborhood are best consumed with brick oven pizza, found at The Bakehouse at Chelsea, or the fresh authentic Greek cuisine at Orapax, a 50-yearold third-generation family-owned restaurant. For a unique perspective of the city, set sail on-board the American Rover, a three-masted topsail schooner that resides in downtown Norfolk, making it an icon of the waterfront. Its distinct red sails catch the breeze and will glide you down the Elizabeth River so effortlessly. With mood-setting live music and the Norfolk skyline as your backdrop, the two hours spent out on the water will have you feeling relaxed and rejuvenated. Marquee dotted archways illuminate Granby Street setting the scene perfectly for dinner at Luce. Their

food profiles are exquisite, taking inspiration from both the northern and southern regions of Italy. Some of the locals’ favorite dishes include Mushroom Toast (Portobello, white and cremini mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, truffle oil, porcini dust and Madera), Wild Boar Ragu (ground Cinghiale Ragu over house-made tagliatelle pasta topped with roasted pulled Cinghiale and rosemary-infused oil) and of course, all the divine desserts. Their dessert menu is ever-changing but to put it simply, it’s molto buono! Rise and shine and head to La Brioche, a beloved French-owned café where the pastries fill the display case just as quickly as they leave. The aroma of freshly baked goods lingers in the air making you crave every sugar-glistened pastry and warm baguette that they offer. Try their classic puff pastry croissant or indulge in an Abricontine – a puff pastry filled with apricots and custard.

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A classic surf-chic waterfront shanty that is loved by locals and tourists alike is Big Sam’s Raw Bar, a 24-year-old seafood favorite nestled amongst the docks of Rudee’s Inlet with a small-scale tropical-themed dining room. Find fresh seafood caught right off the coast with mouth-watering dishes including their Hot Blue Crab Dip and Blackened Tuna Tacos, all accompanied by views of jet skiers, dolphin sightseeing tours and yachts sailing the waters.

Virginia Beach Boardwalk Walk along the iconic three mile Virginia Beach boardwalk with waving palm trees and salty sea breezes. The high-rise hotels and eclectic beachside restaurants paint the perfect seaside postcard. You can admire the crashing waves or venture onto the sand to dip your toes into the Atlantic Ocean. Ogle at the sea long enough and you may spot a pod of dolphins playing in the surf. Operating out of a restored 1912 inland farmhouse, Back Bay’s Farmhouse Brewing Co., is where hoppy beverages may lure you, but the stunning medley of old Southern charm property will keep you there. Sip a seasonal cider on their white picnic tables that dress their front lawn and snap a photo with their old timey classic pick-up truck, making it the perfect spot for an afternoon of sips and laughs.

Virginia Beach Travel 30 minutes east to Virginia Beach to visit the popular attraction, the Virginia Aquarium and Marine Science Center. This aquarium is home to about 300 species of sea animals — watch turtles mosey around, penguins dive bomb into the water and even pet a stingray! Explore the deep depths of the Atlantic Ocean and experience the intricacies of coastal habitats from around the world during your underwater aquatic journey. Byways 16

Sticking with the theme of historic homes that have been converted into taste bud paradises is Omar’s Carriage House — originally an 1840s, you guessed it, carriage house. As the property has changed hands a few different times, you now can find a folksy dining room serving up delectable American-Mediterranean fusion plates; try their braised lamb tacos that come with their popular garlic ginger fries. Supporting a restaurant who transforms locally sourced ingredients into umami flavored dishes is easy, but Commune stepped it up a notch and turned


handedly supporting local farmers, but you are also aiding in the education of young culinary enthusiasts. Stroll the sunlit streets of NEON (new energy of Norfolk) which is home to over 70 works of public art. Building sized murals and art installations trickle down the streets and pay ode to local and touring artists who have so creatively decorated every inch of this neighborhood. The creativity of the murals range from oversized bees on bicycles that can be spotted along Magazine Lane, to men and women in uniform elegantly painted to pay tribute to our military service members. themselves into CommunexCROP – a non-profit student-led restaurant dedicated to building the next generation of innovative and sustainably-minded young leaders in food, agriculture and hospitality. Devour Chicken and Waffles (buttermilk fried chicken, heirloom cornmeal waffles, sunny side up egg, chamomile butter, hickory syrup) for breakfast from CommunexCROP and not only are you single-

Once you’ve explored the painted streets of Norfolk, head over to the Chrysler Museum of Art, a museum compiled of 30,000 objects spanning over 5,000 years. The glass art exhibit that kick-started Norfolk’s glass culture lies just inside the museum’s doors. This exhibit consists of 10,000 pieces that is undoubtedly extraordinary; an art medium that captures the dance of light and color seamlessly. A

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glass blowing studio sits steps away from the museum, and a boutique glass inspired hotel resides downtown with over 50 pieces of glass art inside. The appreciation for this art form is amplified once you witness glass being blown at a free demonstration at the Perry Glass Studio – a mesmerizing unique experience. Camouflaged amongst the quaint houses of Norfolk’s beloved Ghent neighborhood is a local favorite, Press 626 Café and Wine Bar. Housed in a historic 1906 Victorian home and former bank, Press 626 offers a casual and eclectic experience with a side of Southern hospitality. Wines are pulled from the former bank vault behind the bar and served to visitors relaxing in cozy nooks and on the front porch, alongside dishes from an ever-changing menu created from local in-season produce. With three sommeliers on staff, visitors can be sure they’ll find the “most eclectic and coolest wine list around”. Take one last adventure before hitting the road at the Virginia Zoo. Stroll the 53 acres of luscious gardens and visit its 700 furry, feathered and scaly animal friends. Witness the animals in their natural habitat — giraffes outstretching for leaves, monkeys swinging from branch to branch, and grasp a moment of tranquility with the songs from a Magpie bird before you head home. Strictly follow the itinerary or wander off the list and you’ll be sure to have a memorable experience in Norfolk and Virginia Beach. Not only are they neighboring cities but they have teamed up to create the At Last Pass – a pass that brings you the best savings and deals. So bring your family, your friends, or a whole group — your vacation is here, at last. https://www.visitnorfolk.com https://www.visitvirginiabeach.com

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ake a road trip to Hampton, Virginia and experience historic museums, a fort, and sites that illustrate the perseverance of the human

In 2019, Hampton commemorated the 400th anniversary of the first African landing in English North America. Now, you can experience Hampton’s rich African American heritage sites on the 400 Years Forward tour. From the beautiful natural landscape and rich historic past, come visit to see all that Fort Monroe has to offer. Start your tour of historic Fort Monroe at the Fort Monroe Visitor and Education Center. The Center is designed to welcome and orient visitors and provide interpretive exhibits, research, and archival resources. The Center tells the stories of the arrival of the first “twenty and odd” enslaved Africans to English North America in 1619 and the culmination of 242 years of slavery as the first contrabands came to Fort Monroe to receive their emancipation. Byways 22

It was on this site at Old Point Comfort that Africans first arrived on Virginia soil aboard the ship, White Lion. The Africans brought with them their languages, cultures, and traditions that along with their presence would forever change the course of the United States. More than two centuries later in May 1861, Major General Benjamin Butler accepted three runaway slaves under the declaration that they were “Contraband of War” and would therefore not be returned to their owners. As news of this extraordinary development spread, Fort Monroe quickly earned the nickname “Freedom’s Fortress”. Fort Monroe, the largest stone fort ever built in the United States, was completed in 1834. Within the walls of the fort is the Casemate Museum, which chronicles the military history of Fort Monroe. The museum features the room where Jefferson Davis was held briefly as a prisoner following the American Civil War, and highlights the 1861 “Contraband of War” decision that granted three enslaved men, and thousands who followed, sanctuary at Fort Monroe.


Leisurely explore 21 unique sites full of history, architecture, and nature on a selfguided tour of Fort Monroe. Beginning at the Casemate Museum, you’ll make your way to stops like Quarters No. 1, where President Abraham Lincoln stayed for four nights as he and others planned the attack on Norfolk during the American Civil War; and to the Water Battery, which housed 42 cannons as part of the fort’s defenses. Visit the Hampton History Museum. Even as the history of Hampton is aligned with major events in American history, so too is the city’s history intertwined with the story of African Americans in this country. From the Seventeenth Century Gallery with its commentary on the coming of the first Africans to Virginia in 1619 through the descriptions of black sailors on merchant ships and the bravery of the slave Cesar Tarrant in Virginia’s Revolutionary War Navy, each gallery addresses the contributions of African Americans to

Hampton history.

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Continue the tour with a visit to the Emancipation Oak on Hampton University’s waterfront campus. A living symbol of freedom for African Americans and a National Historic Landmark, the expansive Emancipation Oak is located at the entrance to Hampton University. The Emancipation Oak is said to be the site of the first Southern reading of President Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation. At 98 feet in diameter and designated as one of the “Ten Great Trees of the World” by the National Geographic Society, it continues to be an inspiration. Discover Aberdeen Gardens, a historic neighborhood built for and by African Americans in 1935 as part of Byways 24

F.D.R.’s New Deal Settlement. The Aberdeen Gardens Historic Museum Museum preserves the neighborhood’s rich heritage and honors the original residents. Out of the 55 New Deal communities proposed and constructed at the time, Aberdeen Gardens was the only Resettlement Administration community for Blacks in Virginia. The iconic neighborhood is listed on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places. Please check local listings before visiting. https://www.visithampton.com


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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Cape Fear River, North Carolina “W hen I got this boat in 2000, the first thing I had to do was put windows in the main deck salon. Casinos don’t have windows – guess they don’t want customers distracted.”

Carl Marshburn and I were in the pilot house of the 156-foot Henrietta III. With the last line taken in, Carl gave a long blast on the ship’s horn as we pulled away from Wilmington’s river-walk.

harbor that became a port, later chartered as the city of Wilmington in 1739. Passing the decommissioned USS North Carolina – it’s at a pier, but sits on the river bottom – Carl said it was the first of a new class of battleships that joined the U.S. Fleet at the start of World War II. At her commissioning in 1941, she was called the world’s greatest sea weapon.

Henrietta III once plied the Mississippi with 330 slot machines. As the ship swung to head down river, his son Daren took the helm and shifted control to the starboard wing of the bridge. Carl put on a microphone to begin his narration for those onboard for the lunch cruise.

When North Carolina entered Pearl Harbor, a few months after Japan’s surprise attack on Hawaii in 1941, sailors and shipyard workers lined the shore, the docks, and the decks of ships to cheer her arrival. Passing the capsized and sunken ships along battleship row, the ship’s crew stood silently and saluted. They were saluting the crew of USS Arizona who were still onboard, entombed in the sunken ship where they remain to this day.

Here the Cape Fear River widens making a natural

The arrival of North Carolina was a shot in the arm

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for the men at Pearl Harbor. Historians have called that day a turning point in the morale of the Pacific Fleet. In the months following, all but two of those battleships were restored to duty, and later, with North Carolina, took the war across the Pacific and to Japan’s home islands. North Carolina participated in every major campaign in the Pacific. The Japanese claimed that they had sunk her six times, but saw how wrong they where when she dropped anchor in Tokyo Bay in September 1945. Decommissioned two years later, she was saved from being scrapped by school children statewide. They held fundraisers to bring the ship here to Wilmington. Now a World War II Memorial, open to the public, she remains as a relevant reminder of that war and the Americans who fought it. Carl said that during World War II, 243 Liberty ships were made in a shipyard that was here then. “For awhile, they launched a ship every three days.” German submarines would lie in wait off Cape Fear and the Outer Banks then, hoping to pick off newly built Liberty ships. They never did. But subs were successful in torpedoing several merchant ships and tankers. One German U-boat, U85, was sunk off the Cape in 1942. On the bottom at 100 feet, this death-dealing

weapon system of a one-time hated enemy is relevant now only to scuba divers on summer weekends. UPDATE: Cape Fear Riverboats is downtown Wilmington’s longest continuously running boat tour. The new Henrietta is a 115 passenger U.S. Coast Guard certified vessel. They have been offering a wide range of scenic Cape Fear River cruises since 1987. Options include narrated history and sightseeing tours, private charters, and exclusive nature tours with local ecologist Andy Wood. The tours and charters offer downtown Wilmington visitors and locals an exciting yet relaxing option for group tours, holiday parties, anniversaries, birthdays, cocktail parties, romantic dates, and family reunions. Welcome aboard!

About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 27


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n 2020, most areas of the country dependent on tourism took a direct hit from the pandemic. But on Alabama’s Gulf Coast, not only did they have to contend with a pandemic, the area took a second direct hit, this one from a hurricane. Hurricane Sally was a destructive category 2 hurricane which became the first hurricane to make landfall in Alabama since Ivan in 2004. The area around Fort Morgan Peninsula was one of the hardest hit areas during the storm and, while reconstruction continues throughout the summer, The Beach Club Resort & Spa is now welcoming guests back. Much of the resort underwent an extensive renovation, including improvements to onsite restaurants, boutiques, a selection of condos, tennis courts and the resort’s spa. Perdido Beach Resort, a family-friendly resort right on the Gulf in Orange Beach, has reopened to overnight guests after undergoing a complete renovation. All guest rooms, meeting spaces, the fitness center and pool areas have a new look. Byways 30

Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina recently reopened its upscale dining offering, Fisher’s Upstairs. Located at the heart of the marina, guests here enjoy fine wines and a constantly evolving, seasonally inspired menu from five-time James Beard Award semifinalist Chef Bill Briand.


Finally, the first 725 feet of Gulf State Park Pier has reopened for public use (fishing and sightseeing).

The wood decking and railings have been upgraded with sustainably sourced and extremely durable ipe wood. Additional enhancements include an upgraded stateof-the-art fish-cleaning station, refurbished restrooms, and sea turtle-friendly lighting. Check out all there is to do at Gulf State Park by visiting the newly launched website. As pandemic related vaccinations continue to increase, and as hurricane related construction continues, the Alabama Gulf Coast is coming back to life this year. However, pandemic guidelines may still be in effect. Construction will be on-going for some time. Despite these challenges, there are many activities to enjoy on Alabama’s beaches.

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on environmental education, the tourism office has compiled a comprehensive list to help beachgoers identify the types of shells found here, in addition to the best shelling locales in the destination. Visitors are invited to pick up a shelling brochure and special shelling bag at the GSOBT visitors centers during their next visit.

Enjoy “night life” in a whole new way! New this spring, Coastal Alabama is introducing visitors to a new, adrenaline-filled experience: bowfishing is a popular new nighttime activity that requires no dancing skills and takes place in shallow waters!

Go shelling on Alabama’s beaches Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism recently launched a new shelling program. With an emphasis

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Described as a combination of hunting, fishing and archery, this fishing method uses specialized archery equipment that combines a hunting bow with a sturdy fishing reel. (We’ve been told it’s a great activity for all ages – even children!)


Outfitters currently offering bowfishing along Alabama’s Gulf Coast include Night Shift Charter Service and The Hunting Company/Fish Kabob Bowfishing.

Meet the new feline addition to Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo Aurora, a nearly 3-year-old clouded leopard, recently joined resident “cloudie” Belle as part of the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo family. Considered a vulnerable species, the clouded leopard got its name because of the cloud-like patterns on its coat. The zoo is currently raising funds to help secure a future for Aurora and Belle’s wild counterparts through the Clouded Leopard Project; all proceeds go toward conservation efforts for this species.

Order up Murder Point Oysters from their new storefront location Known by their slogan, “oysters worth killing for”, Murder Point Oysters are exclusively grown in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico.

from Orange Beach – the family-owned business recently announced that it has opened a new storefront at The Wharf in Orange Beach. And, if you’re not in the area, not to worry: now Murder Point can also ship oysters right to your door.

Visit Andy Andrews’ Wisdom Harbour Studios and General Store. The newly opened Andy Andrews’ Wisdom Harbour Studios and General Store at The Wharf is home to New York Times’ best-selling author Andy Andrews’ live show and podcast studio. Andrews grew up in Orange Beach and overcame hardships as a homeless, orphaned teen to become a celebrated author, leader and consultant. While at the General Store, visitors can shop and admire memorabilia from Andrews’ collections from The Andy Griffith Show, World War II and more. Learn more about Andy Andrews here. For more information, visit https://www.gulfshores.com

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ong Beach, California is settled along five-anda-half miles of sandy coastline, and is the quintessential vacation getaway, boasting both the ambiance of a sophisticated urban center and the charm of a seaside community. Located 20 miles south of Los Angeles, California’s seventh largest city offers visitors a dynamic range of oceanfront hotels, attractions, shopping, recreational activities, art and culture, restaurants and nightly entertainment that make it an ideal destination any time of the year.

345 Days of Sunshine Averaging 345 days of sunshine per year, Long Beach, with its comfortable Mediterranean climate, is ideal for a winter escape to defrost and decompress. It offers a smorgasbord of water sports and action including kayaking, water skiing, motor boating, paddle boarding, kite surfing and personal water Byways 38

crafts. Whale-watching excursions are popular and harbor cruises tour the historic waterfront under sunny skies all year long. Long Beach is also bike friendly, home to a 5½ mile beachfront bike path, 45 miles of new bike routes and a progressive community bicycle campaign. Long Beach is listed as one of the most bike-friendly cities in the U.S. Long Beach is also a racing hub. More than 200,000 racing fans flock to Long Beach each year to witness the nation’s biggest auto race through city streets, the Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach.

Walkable Waterfront And Long Beach is also a walkable waterfront getaway. It was named one of the “Most Walkable” Cities in America by Walkscore.com. Stroll the beach path that boasts stunning views of the Pacific


coastline. Long Beach is a community full of matchless neighborhoods and cultural diversity, one of the only cities on the West Coast with a downtown situated right next to the Pacific Ocean. Long Beach boasts more than 120 quality restaurants within an eight-block area in the downtown waterfront, and entertainment options along the shoreline.

Location Centrally located between Los Angeles and Orange County, Long Beach boasts the ambiance of a sophistication and the charm of an ocean community. Long Beach’s downtown waterfront sets a new standard for “walk-ability”, with first-class accommodations, shopping, dining, and seaside sightseeing, just steps from each other. Located 40 minutes from Universal Studios and 30 minutes from Disneyland, Long Beach’s attractions include: The Queen Mary, featuring a hotel, exceptional restaurants and historical tours; Aquarium of the Pacific, a world-class facility home to more than11,000 inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean; and several museums including the Museum of Latin

American Art (MoLAA) and Second Street in nearby Belmont Shore, the quintessential beachfront community.

Lights, Camera, Long Beach Action! With its sparkling waterfront, diverse architecture and film-friendly weather, Long Beach has been a popular location for filming television and movies, including recent features: Iron Man, Knight and Day,

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Transformers 2 and 3, and Star Trek. Located less than 30 miles from Hollywood production studios, Long Beach has been and still is the backdrop for many TV shows, including Miami for Dexter and CSI Miami. NCIS: Los Angeles, True Blood and Criminal Minds also filmed in the city. It’s not uncommon to see camera crews in Belmont Shore, Alamitos Bay Marina and on Shoreline Drive for coastal stand-in locations and downtown Long Beach’s East Village Arts District or Third, Cedar and Pine Avenues for urban settings.

The Queen Mary Arriving in Long Beach in 1967 after a distinguished 30-year career as a TransAtlantic liner and a World War II troopship, the Queen Mary has become a centerpiece of the downtown waterfront. As the fastest and most elegant ship afloat during the heydays of trans-Atlantic travel, the Queen carried the rich and famous as well as thousands of tourists and immigrants. Today, the Queen can still transport her passengers to a bygone era via history and imagination. Visitors to the Queen Mary can stay on board in one of 360 converted Byways 40

1st class staterooms, dine in the ship’s restaurants and shop on the Promenade Deck. Guided and walking tours bring back the grand history of this famous ship. Visitors can explore this majestic ship from the wheelhouse to the engine room. The ship offers several different guided and


self-guided tours. The Ghosts & Legends show and tour conjures up some of the ship’s ghostly passengers.

Port of Long Beach The Queen Mary is docked at the Port of Long Beach. The Port is the second-busiest container port in the United States, after the Port of Los Angeles, which it adjoins. Acting as a major gateway for U.S.Asian trade, the Port occupies 3,200 acres of land and 25 miles of waterfront in the city of Long Beach.

Aquarium Of The Pacific The Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific is also a world-class educational and research facility. The Aquarium staff received global attention when they became the first to breed weedy sea dragons (a cousin of the seahorse) in captivity. Exhibit areas are divided by Pacific Ocean regions and feature fish, birds, and mammals from each region. At Shark Lagoon visitors can actually touch several varieties of sharks and rays. In the Lorikeet Forest, these colorful little parrots from down under can be fed by hand. A short walk from the Aquarium along the picturesque Rainbow Harbor Esplanade, you’ll find two exciting entertainment/dining/shopping complexes—Shoreline Village and The Pike Outlets. Shoreline Village has the look and feel of a charming seaside fishing village, with a boardwalk of specialty

and souvenir shops and restaurants. The Pike Outlets entertainment center features name brand outlet shops, a cornucopia of great restaurants, and a multiplex movie theater. Entertainment options include a comedy club, a dueling piano show, a vintage Ferris Wheel and Carousel. Rainbow Harbor itself is home to boats of all types, including fishing boats, tall ships, luxury charter yachts, harbor tour boats, pleasure craft and even a replica Mississippi sternwheeler.

Year-Round Whale Watching Join in the fun and excitement of viewing some of the earth’s most incredible sea mammals, year round off the coast of Long Beach. From June through October, visitors can expect to see and learn about Blue Whales, the largest animals to have ever lived on this planet. From December through mid-May, the California Gray Whales pass close by Long Beach on their annual migration from the Bering Sea in Alaska to Baja California, Mexico. From sandy beaches to eclectic neighborhoods, Long Beach offers the great adventures of a big city with the laid-back atmosphere of a resort town. You can be as active as you wish or just sit back and bask in the sunshine. www.visitlongbeach.com.

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lyOver, an immersive flight ride from global attractions and hospitality company Pursuit, will debut this fall on the Las Vegas Strip.

The dynamic attraction will take guests on a multisensory journey as they soar over the American West’s most iconic locations and natural wonders as part of this cutting-edge entertainment experience. Modeled after Pursuit’s popular FlyOver attractions in Vancouver, Canada and Reykjavik, Iceland. FlyOver in Las Vegas will open with a signature flight ride featuring the American West. The attraction will also introduce additional immersive flight ride films shot in stunning locations around the globe. A 52-foot vibrant spherical screen will surround guests as they glide through picturesque destinations including the Las Vegas Strip, Grand Canyon, Zion and Arches National Parks, Lake Tahoe and more seen from a first-person perspective in sharp, stunning high definition. Developed by Brogent Technologies, Inc., the attraction uses a state-of-the-art moving platform with six degrees of motion that enable guests to feel every sweeping movement of the journey. Special effects including wind, mist and location-specific Byways 42

scents heighten the immersive flight ride as guests hang suspended with their feet dangling above the world’s most stunning natural wonders.


Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe on Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas’ FlyOver attraction

will boast an expansive space with two flight-ride theaters, pre-show entertainment areas

and a full-service bar. “FlyOver in Las Vegas will give visitors a new and visually stunning way to see breathtaking landscapes of the American West. Much like our FlyOver concepts around the world, our new Las Vegas attraction will push the boundaries of escape and take guests on the ultimate flying ride adventure,” said Lisa Adams, Vice President of FlyOver Attractions. “The need to escape, relax and restore through travel experiences will become much more meaningful as we emerge from what has been an incredibly challenging year,” said David Barry, President, Pursuit. “Introducing a new FlyOver attraction in a globally recognized tourism destination like Las Vegas marks another milestone across Pursuit’s growing FlyOver portfolio. This new attraction will enable us to connect visitors with a distinctive experience that showcases both the vibrancy of Las Vegas along with the stunning natural wonders of the American West.” The new Las Vegas concept will mark the third FlyOver destination for the global travel and hospitality brand. Additional details on the flight ride film’s content and creative team will be announced in the coming months. For more information on FlyOver in Las Vegas, visit flyoverlasvegas.com.

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wo iconic Kentucky attractions are teaming up to offer a tour that takes visitors behind-thescenes of a Thoroughbred farm in Goshen, Kentucky, just minutes outside of Louisville.

Churchill Downs, Kentucky Derby The Hermitage Farm Tour begins at the Kentucky Derby Museum, where a tour guide will accompany guests to the world-famous racetrack at Churchill Downs. Here, guests will watch Thoroughbreds in action on the track, before exploring exhibits and watching The Greatest Race, the Museum’s signature movie.

Hermitage Farm Guests will then board buses and travel to Hermitage Farm for a private tour of the horse farm, a garden and sustainability tour, farm fresh lunch at Barn 8 Restaurant, an Old Fashioned cocktail class, and interaction with sport horses. The day ends with a Byways 44

Thoroughbred parade, where guests can once again see horses up-close. “Partnering with the Kentucky Derby Museum brings the Hermitage Farm experience to a much larger audience,” says Steve Wilson, owner of Hermitage Farm. “We believe that by combining the Museum Tour with the Hermitage Farm experience guests will truly have a genuine Kentucky Horse racing experience.” The new tour will allow guests to experience a


closer look at the inner workings of a fully operational Thoroughbred horse farm and a tour guide will walk guests through the farm’s illustrious history in the equine industry.

Bourbon Experience Guests will also learn step by step from a bourbon steward how to make Louisville’s official cocktail —the Old Fashioned. Guests will experience the farm’s commitment to organic and sustainable practices from terraced gardens, onsite orchard and innovative greenhouse, which harvests microgreens and produce for Barn 8 Restaurant. Guests will be able to enjoy a gourmet picnic lunch prepared fresh daily by Barn 8 Restaurant using local ingredients.

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farm. I am confident our guests will be blown away by this bucket-list experience that combines the tradition of the Kentucky Derby with unique agricultural and Thoroughbred heritage through Hermitage Farm,”says Patrick Armstrong, President & CEO at Kentucky Derby Museum. The Hermitage Farm and Kentucky Derby Museum tour will begin at the Kentucky Derby Museum and is approximately 5½ hours in length beginning at 9:00am, Tuesday through Saturday. Transportation is provided, and tickets must be purchased in advance. To see the full itinerary of this exclusive experience and purchase tickets, please visit www.hermitagefarm.com.

Louisville Tourism Information

“By partnering with Hermitage Farm, we’re thrilled to provide guests with a memorable day packed with all things Kentucky: racehorses, bourbon, and the behind-the-scenes beauty and wonder of a horse

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For information on planning a complete itinerary in the Bourbon City, travelers can get attraction, lodging and dining assistance at www.gotolouisville.com including the state’s covidmitigation guidelines. Free travel advice and planning is also available with a live agent at 1-800LOUISVILLE during regular business hours.


Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 5,000 tour operators and Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, and

other group tour travel promoters. It is also available to consumers with an interest in North American travel. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2021 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.

Editor & Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet

bywaysmagazine.com stephen.kirchner@gmail.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter

Charge Electric Bikes .....................................................................................................................6 Dutchess Tourism, New York .........................................................................................................2 Generac Home Standby Generator ...............................................................................................5 Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation, Virginia .................................................................................6 LeafFilter .........................................................................................................................................35

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