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Preview
By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
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elcome to the annual Dams and Bridges issue of Byways. Come along as we begin the journey in Washington State. Grand Coulee Dam was the key to the development of power on the Columbia River — the greatest potential source of hydroelectric energy in the United States.
Highway 64, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge is the second highest bridge on the United States Highway System. The deep gorge of the Rio Grande River is the only major rift across an otherwise flat expanse of land between the mountains of the Carson National Forest and the Sangre de Cristos. The bridge is one of New Mexico’s most visited tourist attractions and has been featured in a number of Hollywood film productions.
Construction began in 1935 and continued through 1941. Over time, additions were added to Grand Coulee Dam including the John W. Keys III Pump Generating Plant, completed in 1951, and the Third Power Plant and Forebay Dam in 1975. Today, Grand Coulee Dam is the largest concrete structure and largest producer of hydropower in the United States.
In his column, Bill Graves takes us to his Minnesota hometown, and highlights the impact of the Duluth Bridge and Lake Superior on the city’s local citizens. The Aerial Lift Bridge has always been an attraction. Now it’s the center for the tourist action and probably the most visited landmark in Northern Minnesota. Michigan’s Mackinac Bridge is one of the world’s most beautiful bridges and the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere. The 5 mile long bridge crosses the Straits of Mackinac and unites Michigan’s Lower and Upper Peninsulas. The Mackinac Bridge is part of Interstate 75 and the Lake Michigan and Lake Huron components of the Great Lakes Circle Tour.
The Mackinac Bridge
Oroville Dam in California, at 770 feet high, is the tallest dam in the United States and serves mainly for water supply, hydroelectricity generation and flood control. The dam impounds Lake Oroville, the second largest man-made lake in the state of California. Construction began in 1961 and was completed in 1968. Lake Oroville is the reservoir formed by the Oroville Dam impounding the Feather River. The lake is situated 5 miles northeast of the city of Oroville. Lake Oroville is treated as a keystone facility within the California State Water Project by storing water, providing flood control, and recreation.
Surrounded by the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and deep river gorges, Fontana Dam in North Carolina ranks among the most beautiful dams in the world. The tallest dam east of the Rockies at 480 feet, Fontana Dam was built by the Tennessee Valley Authority in response to an urgent need for electric power during World War II.
The Foresthill Bridge, the tallest bridge in California, should never have been built. It was designed to forge the huge reservoir behind the 600 foot Auburn Dam, but the dam project was cancelled. That left the the bridge to serve the needs of the small population of California’s Gold Country.
In What’s Happening, The Museum of the United State Army has opened 30 minutes from Washington, D.C. The museum honors and celebrates the service and sacrifice of the more than 30 million men and women who have worn the Army uniform since 1775.
Located 11 miles west of historic Taos on U.S.
We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.
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Volume 37, Issue No. 6 2020 On the Cover. The Grand Coulee Dam, Lake Roosevelt, and the Columbia River in Washington state. Grand Coulee Dam is the largest power station in the United States. Turn to Page 8 for more on Dams and Bridges.
Features Washington’s Grand Coulee Dam ......................................................................................................... 8 California’s Oroville Dam ..................................................................................................................... 14 Foresthill, California’s Tallest Bridge.................................................................................................... 20 New Mexico’s Rio Grande Gorge Bridge............................................................................................. 24 Duluth’s Aerial Lift Bridge .................................................................................................................... 30 The Mackinac Bridge, Uniting Michigan .............................................................................................. 32 Fontana Dam in the Great Smokies .................................................................................................... 39
Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 49
What’s Happening National Museum of the U.S. Army Opens.................................................................................... ......44
Coming in Future Issues Coming in future issues of Byways . . .Great American Railroads, Mountains and Valleys, Ocean Views and more . . .
Next Up: Great American Railroads Right. The Alaska Railroad transports half a million passengers annually throughout the state, including on its Denali Star to Denali National Park. Photo courtesy Alaska Railroad.
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rand Coulee Dam was the key to the development of power on the Columbia River — the greatest potential source of hydroelectric energy in the United States. Original plans considered ten dams on the Columbia River between the Canadian border and the mouth of the river. Grand Coulee Dam forms Lake Roosevelt, extending 151 miles upstream to the Canadian border. t
It has a 600-mile shoreline and a surface area of 82,000 acres. In 1948, Congress designated Lake Roosevelt a National Recreation Area, which is operated by the National Park Service. Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area provides opportunities for fishing, swimming, canoeing, boating, hunting, camping, and visiting historic Fort Spokane and St. Paul’s Mission. Grand Coulee Dam provides water to irrigate approximately 600,000 acres in the Columbia Basin Project. Byways 10
In addition to its irrigation and power functions, Grand Coulee Dam is a primary factor in controlling the floods on the Columbia River.
History In the early 1900s, farmers tried to grow crops in the fertile soils of Central Washington. Inadequate rainfall was a problem but the abundance of water in the Columbia River was the answer. The solution was to build a concrete dam across the Columbia River to raise the water level and divert it south into the Grand Coulee, an immense natural channel which was carved by the Ice Age Floods. Construction of the dam was included in the Depression Era Public Works Administration, a program which provided jobs to the unemployed by developing the nation’s resources. The Bureau of Reclamation was placed in charge of the project. On July 16, 1933, the first stake was driven into place, initiating a nine-year construction project to build the largest structure in the world. To prepare the site, massive amounts of sand, gravel, clay and boulders were removed to uncover the solid
granite rock which would serve as the foundation for the dam. Once the site was clear of overburden material, the foundation was laid. The river then had to be diverted around the area where construction
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was occurring. A coffer (temporary) dam was built to block the west side of the river and direct flow to the east side which left the west side dry for construction. The first concrete was poured in December 1935. Once the base of the dam was completed and several blocks were placed on the west side, the coffer dam was removed and constructed on the east side. Construction continued through 1941. During that time, records for the largest pour of concrete in a single day occurred, challenges were overcome with unique and innovative solutions. Unfortunately, a total of 77 lives were lost during the construction of the original part of the dam. Over time, additions were added to Grand Coulee Dam including the John W. Keys III Pump Generating Plant, completed in 1951, and the Third Power Plant and Forebay Dam in 1975. Today, Grand Coulee Dam is the largest concrete structure and largest producer of hydropower in the United States. Byways 12
Native Tribes and Salmon Disruption Several tribes living in the areas now occupied by Grand Coulee Dam and Lake Roosevelt have called this place home for over 11,000 years. These tribes include the Sanpoil, Nespelem, Colville, Lakes and Spokane. For these tribes and others that lived along the Columbia River, salmon was the primary source of food and the basis for trade. Kettle Falls, located 100 miles north of Grand Coulee Dam’s current location, was the second largest salmon fishery on the Columbia River. The construction of Grand Coulee Dam drastically changed the salmon-based culture of the native peoples. It blocked spawning salmon from returning to the upper Columbia River. Rising waters behind the dam submerged landforms like Kettle Falls. This loss of resources greatly impacted the tribes who centered their life on seasonal runs of migratory fish. The dam and resulting reservoir also impacted orchard-based agriculture. Towns like Peach and Plum, originally built along the Columbia River to take advantage of the river irrigation, disappeared beneath the rising water of Lake Roosevelt.
At the dam site, the Bureau of Reclamation and contractors building the dam developed towns to support the construction. These towns, though not as numerous today as they were during the boom days of the original construction, have continued to provide homes for workers who operate and maintain the dam. Today, the economy of the Grand Coulee Dam area is dependent upon the dam for its power and irrigation and for the tourism that Lake Roosevelt and Banks Lake have generated.
Visitor Center The Grand Coulee Dam Visitor Center was built in the late 1970s as part of the dam’s Third Power Plant expansion. It was designed by architect Marcel Breuer to resemble a generator rotor. An evening laser light show was added in 1989. The center was retrofitted in 2004 for seismic, life-safety, and accessibility standards. The original laser equipment was replaced in 2013 and a new laser light show, One River, Many Voices, premiered in 2014. In 2006, new exhibits and displays were installed. The exhibits interpret Grand Coulee’s role as one of the main irrigation, flood control, and hydroelectric dams on the Columbia River. They also address the effects the dam has had on various groups of people, including Native Americans and early settlers. https://www.usbr.gov/pn/grandcoulee/index.html
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California’s Oroville Dam Byways 14
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roville Dam is an earthfill embankment dam on the Feather River east of the city of Oroville, California, in the Sierra Nevada foothills east of the Sacramento Valley.
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Resources, Oroville Dam is one of the key features of the California State Water Project, one of two major projects passed that set up California’s statewide water system.
At 770 feet high, it is the tallest dam in the U.S. and serves mainly for water supply, hydroelectricity generation and flood control. The dam impounds Lake Oroville, the second largest man-made lake in the state of California.
Construction
Built by the California Department of Water t
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Construction was initiated in 1961, and despite numerous difficulties encountered during its construction, including multiple floods and a major train wreck on the rail line used to transport materials to the dam site, the embankment was topped out in 1967 and the entire project was ready for use in
1968. The dam began to generate electricity shortly afterwards with completion of the Edward Hyatt PumpGenerating Plant, then the country’s largest underground power station. Two concrete-lined diversion tunnels, each 4,400 feet long and 35 feet in diameter, were excavated to channel the Feather River around the dam site. One of the tunnels was located at river level and would carry normal water flows, while the second one would only be used during floods. In May 1963, workers poured the last of 252,000 cubic yards of concrete that comprised the 128 feet high cofferdam, which would protect the construction site from floods. This structure would later serve as an impervious core for the completed dam. With the cofferdam in place, an 11-mile rail line was constructed to move earth and rock to the dam site. An average of 120 train cars ran along the line each hour, transporting fill that was
mainly excavated from enormous piles of hydraulic mining debris that were washed down by the Feather River after the California Gold Rush. Oroville Dam was designed to withstand the strongest possible earthquake for the region, and was fitted with Byways 17
Lighting illuminates Oroville Dam’s main spillway at sunrise. Photo courtesy California Department of Water Resources. hundreds of instruments that serve to measure water pressure and settlement of the earth fill used in its construction, earning it the nickname “the dam that talks back”.
trying to counter the dam’s impacts on fish migration have included the construction of a salmon/steelhead fish incubator on the river, which began shortly after the dam was completed.
The embankment was finally topped out on October 6, 1967, with the last of 155 million tons of material that took over 40,000 train trips to transport. On May 4, 1968, Oroville Dam was officially dedicated by the state of California. Among the notable figures present was California Governor Ronald Reagan.
2017 Evacuation
Since its completion in 1968, the Oroville Dam has allocated the flow of the Feather River from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta into the State Water Project’s California Aqueduct. It provides a major supply of water for irrigation in the San Joaquin Valley as well as municipal and industrial water supplies to coastal Southern California, and has prevented large amounts of flood damage to the area. The dam has confined fish migration up the Feather River and the controlled flow of the river as a result, has affected riparian habitat. Multiple attempts at Byways 18
In February 2017, the main and emergency spillways threatened to fail, leading to the evacuation of 188,000 people living near the dam. After deterioration of the main spillway largely stabilized and the water level of the dam’s reservoir dropped below the top of the emergency spillway, the evacuation order was lifted.
Lake Oroville Lake Oroville is a reservoir formed by the Oroville Dam impounding the Feather River. The lake is situated 5 miles northeast of the city of Oroville, within the Lake Oroville State Recreation Area. Lake Oroville is treated as a keystone facility within the California State Water Project by storing water, providing flood control, and recreation. Freshwater
releases assist in controlling the salinity intrusion in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta and protecting fish and wildlife.
Year-Round Recreation The lake is a popular nationally renowned bass fishing location, while coho salmon are stocked from the Feather River Fish Hatchery. The lake offers multiple recreational activities for the public. The Lake Oroville Visitor Center has a museum, exhibits, videos and a store. People like to look through the two high-powered telescopes on the 47-foot tall tower to see the lake, Sierra Nevadas, valley, foothills, and the Sutter Buttes mountain range.
wakeboarding, houseboats, PWC and trolling. There are a number of multi-lane boat launch ramps. These are located at Bidwell Canyon, Loafer Creek, Spillway, Lime Saddle, Enterprise, Nelson Bar, Vinton Gulch, Foreman Creek, and Dark Canyon. Boat supplies and rentals are available on the south end of the Lake at Bidwell Marina or the north end at Lake Oroville Marina. Visitors can rent kayaks, canoes, sailboats, paddleboats and more at the Forebay Aquatic Center located at the North Forebay. For more information on visiting Oroville Dam and Oroville Lake, visit: https://www.lakeoroville.net
Year-round activities are boating, waterskiing,
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he Foresthill Bridge, which soars 730 feet above the stream bed of the American River’s North Fork, is reputed to be the 3rd highest bridge in the United States and the tallest in California. The bridge opened for public use in 1973. The 2,428 foot long span has piers only 16 feet shorter than those of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Also referred to as the Auburn-Foresthill Bridge, it crosses over the North Fork of the American River in Placer County in the Sierra Nevada foothills, in California’s Gold Country. It is the highest bridge by deck height in California, the fourth highest in the United States, and among the seventy highest in the world. At 730 feet high, it has the distinction of being the world’s highest cantilever bridge. Byways 22
Built to Cross Huge Reservoir Ironically, the Auburn Foresthill bridge was built to cross a reservoir that was never constructed! In the early 1970s, foundation work began on the 685 foot high Auburn dam east of Sacramento on the American River. It would have been the tallest concrete dam in California and one of the tallest in the United States. Due to the huge reservoir that was expected to form behind it, engineers decided to reroute traffic across a tall bridge over the lake’s wide North Fork. After 3 years of construction, the huge cantilever span was opened in 1973. The dam, however, was permanently halted due to a series of unforeseen seismic studies, excessive cost overruns and other political and environmental concerns. While the bridge has become very useful to
the small mountain communities in and around Foresthill, it ultimately would never have been financed and built without the planned reservoir.
Tops Golden Gate Bridge The drop to the river below is 730 feet. To put that into perspective, the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco is only 220 feet above the water below. To get to the height of this bridge over the river, you would have to climb to the top of the Golden Gate Towers, where you are about 750 feet above the water below. The bridge is very pedestrian friendly with walkways on both sides of the bridge offering spectacular views of the American River gorge below. The great accessibility of the bridge has also made it popular
among BASE and bungee jumpers. For experienced hiker’s there's an abundance of trails that vary in both distance and terrain. You can descend from the bridge to the river below. The landscape is scenic, and the paths are paved. The surrounding land is owned by the Auburn Recreation Area and is a favorite for outdoor enthusiasts. The bridge is easily accessible from Interstate 80. Take the Foresthill road exit and it is only one mile until you have your first view of the bridge. For more on visiting the Foresthill Bridge and Auburn, go to: http://visitauburnca.com Byways 23
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ew Mexico is a land of extremes. This state is home to some exceptionally dry deserts, lush forests, blazing hot chiles, and the oldest locations in the country. It is also home to one of America’s highest and most famous bridges. Byways 26
Located 11 miles west of historic Taos on U.S. Highway 64, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge is the second highest bridge on the United States Highway System. The bridge is a three-span steel continuous-deck-truss structure with a concrete-filled steel-grid deck. It was called the “bridge to nowhere”
while it was being built because the funding did not exist to continue the road on the other side. Construction of the 1280 foot bridge began in 1963 after calls for more efficient transportation between northeastern and northwestern New Mexico. The bridge was completed in 1965. It was dedicated on September 10, 1965 and is a part of U.S. Route 64. Two key factors played an important role in designing the bridge: that it could withstand heavy shipping loads and the high winds through the Rio Grande Gorge. With its headwaters high up in the Rocky Mountains of south-central Colorado, the Rio Grande is America’s 4th longest river, stretching 1,885 miles south to the Gulf of Mexico. The deep gorge of the Rio Grande is the only major rift across an otherwise flat expanse of land between the mountains of the Carson National Forest and the Sangre de Cristos. The bridge is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the region with parking areas on both sides of the bridge. One of the best features of the bridge are several platforms that cantilever out from the roadway. They allow pedestrians to stand several feet out into space -- away from the comfort of the main railing and sidewalk -- adding to the unease of being so high above the ground.
White water rafting is popular in the region and allows a rare opportunity to view the bridge from the bottom of the canyon. The only access point is at Dunns Bridge, 4 miles north of the bridge. From here the river flows south for 16 miles through the famous Taos “Box” where the river is mostly continuous white water of Class 4+ and 5 in high water. Byways 27
If you’re looking forward to exploring more of the Rio Grande Gorge, you’ll want to make time to hike the gorge’s namesake trail. Measuring approximately seven miles overall, this trail offers incredible sights and information about the area. Nearby Taos is a town in the north-central region of New Mexico in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The Byways 28
Taos Pueblo, which borders the north boundary of the town of Taos, has been occupied for nearly a millennium. It is estimated that the pueblo was built between 1000 and 1450 A.D., with some later expansion, and the pueblo is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the United States.
In 1997, the Rio Grande Bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places for its high degree of integrity of setting, design, materials, and workmanship.
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In 1966 the American Institute of Steel Construction awarded the bridge “Most Beautiful Steel Bridge” in the “Long Span” category. A major action scene of mayhem and destruction takes place on the bridge in the 2009 Warner Brothers film Terminator Salvation. The bridge has appeared in several other films, including Paul, Natural Born Killers, Wild Hogs, and White Sands.
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For more on visiting the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge and the Taos region, visit: https://taos.org
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Duluth, Minnesota I grew up among the celebrated lakes of Minnesota and on the shores of Lake Superior, the grandest of them all. I have feelings for that lake like those I have for close childhood friends.
To kids growing up in Duluth, Lake Superior was an ocean: so huge not even grownups could see across it. Most of us were in grade school before we gave in to the reality that no magical land lay on the other side of it – just Wisconsin. Duluth was bigger then. We knew, were it not for the lake, Duluth probably wouldn’t even exist. Except for those icy months of winter when its surface was covered with snow, frozen solid, its primary purpose was to float giant ore boats. Here they took on a weighty cargo that made the seaport of Duluth second only to New York in tonnage shipped. At least that’s what my older sister told me; and she was smart. When you consider Duluth’s cargo was iron ore -- and that was the decade of war and post-war construction, the 1940s -- I am sure she was right. Duluth’s magnificent harbor, with its long sheltering breakwater, is a gift of nature. What they needed to turn the harbor into a viable port was a deep-water entry -- a cut in the breakwater, a peninsula called Minnesota Point. So about the time the last century turned, they dug and dredged an opening Byways 30
and built the ship canal that exists today. Minnesota Point then became one long, sand-beached island. People living there got used to commuting on ferries in the summer and over a temporary bridge in the winter that spanned the 386-foot cut. The permanent bridge came in 1930. It’s a unique elevator bridge that rises up 227 feet. With steel trestles that create a majestic spider web across the ship canal, it has become Duluth’s logo. The Aerial Lift Bridge has always been an attraction. Now it’s the center for the tourist action here and probably the most visited landmark in Northern Minnesota. People who live on the point called Park Point by Duluthians, as there was once a park at the end of it, speak of getting “bridged”. Translated, it means, “It’s not my fault I’m late.” It’s a valid excuse that’s accepted anywhere in town. Completely understandable: “The bridge was up and I had to wait for it.” If they are “bridged” by two boats in a row,
then they are “seriously bridged” and seriously late. I rode the bridge one time when I was in high school. A couple of us just climbed the ladder and knocked on the door of the control house, which is centered in the span, and asked for a ride. Out on the lake, an inbound boat blew its whistle three times. (Ship-talk for raise the bridge, please.) The bridge answered with three vociferous blasts, a sound that I had been hearing all my life, but with detachment and from a distance. It’s in the background of living here. That day it had meaning and consequence. Hearing it gave me goose bumps. There was much clanking and the high whine of motors as we slowly went up; counter weights passed us going down. Then everything went still. Within minutes the gigantic ship passed silently beneath us. There is enough water in Lake Superior to fill all the other Great Lakes with plenty left over. Of the five lakes, Lake Superior is the highest above sea level and farthest north. It is also the deepest, well over a thousand feet deep in places. In my neighborhood, big kids would tell little kids that because it’s so cold, “the lake never gives up its dead”. We thought it was a scary thing to say, even spookier to think about. But it’s true; my dad told me that. He was a doctor and he knew about things like that. With the opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959, Duluth became an international port. From here, it’s less than a week’s steaming time to the Atlantic Ocean -- 2,342 miles. More than 1,000 ships pass through here annually. Principal cargos are ore (40%), coal (40%) and grain (10%). The port now handles 40 million tons annually, and ranks first among ports on the lakes in total cargo volume, and 21st nationally. That’s from the Duluth Seaway Port Authority, not my sister. The lake is also where Duluth gets its drinking water. We always said that it is the best water anywhere, a claim that is still good in my book. Out-of-towners
come now with their plastic bottles of bought water, clutching them close as if they’re walking the Mojave Desert. But that’s what people do now the world over. Most of it is silliness, I think, especially in Duluth. My uncle Dick, from Iowa, tried to convince me that if we ran the faucet at home we could catch minnows out of it for fishing. They would come right out of the lake and splash around in the sink, he insisted. When he visited us, he would run water in the kitchen; I would watch. After a while, I figured out the people from Iowa don’t know anything about Minnesota lakes. Thinking back on those days, so many things pile on. Although I have lived many places, my answer is always Duluth if a person wants more than a cursory answer as to where I am from. I live elsewhere now, but Duluth is home.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 31
The Mackinac Bridge united the Upper Peninsula of Michigan with the State’s Lower Peninsula. Photo courtesyAaron Burden on Unsplash. Byways 32
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he Mackinac Bridge is the one of the world’s most beautiful bridges and the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere, with a total length of 8,614 feet suspended.
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The bridge opened to traffic on November 1, 1957 according to schedule, despite the many hazards of marine construction over the turbulent Straits of Mackinac.
Much of the beauty comes from the setting at the Straits of Mackinac. The Straits link Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. The 5 mile long Mackinac Bridge (Big Mac) unites Michigan’s Lower and Upper Peninsulas.
The Mackinac Bridge is part of Interstate 75 and the Lake Michigan and Lake Huron components of the Great Lakes Circle Tour across the straits; it is also a segment of the U.S. North Country National Scenic Trail. The bridge connects the city of St. Ignace on the north end with the village of Mackinaw City on the south.
Michiganders are proud of the Mackinac Bridge, but out-of-towners are just as enamored. In fact, the Straits of Mackinac and the bridge itself remain popular destinations for sightseers, bird-watchers, boaters, bikers, and history buffs alike. Whether you’re searching for a scenic spot to capture a few photographs or an ideal place to unwind along the waterfront, the Mackinac Bridge and its surroundings will quickly capture your interest. Envisioned since the 1880s, the bridge was designed by the engineer David B. Steinman and completed in 1957 only after many decades of struggles to begin construction. Byways 34
When the bridge opened, Mackinac Bridge car ferry service between Mackinaw City and St. Ignace ended. In 34 years of service, the ferries operated by the Department of State Highways carried approximately 12 million vehicles and more than 30 million passengers across the Straits of Mackinac.
Tourism During the summer months, the Upper Peninsula and the Mackinac Bridge have become a major tourist destination. In addition to visitors to Mackinac Island, the bridge has attracted interest from a diverse group of tourists including bridge enthusiasts, bird-
watchers, and photographers. The Straits area is a popular sailing destination for boats of all types, which make it easier to get a closer view to the underlying structure of the bridge. The Village of Mackinaw City is a resort community located on the shores of the Straits of Mackinac at the tip of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. The Village is host to over 1.2 million visitors each year who enjoy the Village’s scenic beauty, 100+ retail shops, exciting attractions, marinas, great restaurants, hotels, bed and breakfasts, and campgrounds. https://www.mackinawcity.org/visitors
Mackinac Island
The bridge unites Michigan’s Lower and Upper Peninsulas.
Nearby Mackinac Island is one of the top tourist destinations in North America. Visitors have found this national landmark to be the ideal vacation spot.
No cars. No chain hotels. Just world-famous Mackinac Island fudge, historic Fort Mackinac, unique shopping and diverse dining. Unforgettable sunsets, awe-inspiring sunrises and extraordinary nightlife befit its ranking as a Top 10 U.S. Island by TripAdvisor and USA Today. Interstate I-75 brings you to the ferry docks of both Mackinaw City (Lower Peninsula) and St. Ignace (Upper Peninsula). Access to the island can be made
from both of these cities. The exits are clearly marked for several miles. All season long, Mackinac Island is serviced from both of these cities by two ferry companies: Shepler’s Ferry and Star Line Ferry. Each company offers a unique fleet of ferry experiences. https://www.mackinacisland.org Byways 35
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Bridge Walk The Mackinac Bridge Walk has been held each year since 1958, when it was led by Governor G. Mennen Williams. The first walk was held during the bridge’s Dedication Ceremony held in late June, and has been held on Labor Day since 1959. Until 2018, school buses from local districts transported walkers from Mackinaw City to St. Ignace to begin the walk. Thousands of people, traditionally led by the Governor of Michigan, cross the five-mile span on foot from St. Ignace to Mackinaw City. At the south end of the bridge is Fort Michilimackinac State Historic Park. The park entrance is actually underneath the bridge. Each Memorial Day weekend, the residents of Mackinaw City reenact the history of the 18th century British French and Native American community. The Fort is open from early May until early October.
Since 2004, the nearby Old Mackinaw Point Lighthouse has been opened to the public. To learn more about the bridge, visit https://www.mackinacbridge.org Byways 37
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urrounded by the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the Nantahala National Forest, and deep river gorges, Fontana ranks among the most beautiful dams in the world. The tallest dam east of the Rockies at 480 feet, Fontana Dam was built by the Tennessee Valley Authority in response to an urgent need for electric power during World War II; construction began in 1942 and was finished in just 36 months. In addition to providing hydroelectric power and flood control for the region, the lake created behind the dam is a popular site for many kinds of outdoor recreation. The dam is named for the now-inundated town of Fontana, a lumber and copper-mining hub once located at the mouth of Eagle Creek. The dam impounds the Little Tennessee River forming Fontana Lake. The lake provides 238 miles of shoreline and 10,230 acres of water surface for recreational activities. Several marinas service the Byways 40
lake, including Fontana Marina, the nearest to the dam itself, which offers watercraft and equipment rentals including pontoon boats, canoes, kayaks, and paddle boards. Lake excursions are available, with knowledgable guides relating the history of the region and the dam. Views from the water reveal the pristine nature of the surrounding lands. The Fontana Dam Visitor Center is located off N.C. Highway 28 near the Tennessee/North Carolina state line. It is open from 9:00am to 6:00pm daily from May through October except major holidays. Newly refurbished and staffed by TVA retirees, the visitor center has updated maps, videos, and displays about TVA and the construction of the dam. Fontana Lake spreads across a scenic stretch of the Little Tennessee River along the southwestern boundary of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Appalachian Trail crosses Fontana Dam, which stretches 2,365 feet across the Little Tennessee River. The hot showers available at the trail shelter, maintained by the TVA, have led hikers to dub it the Fontana Hilton. The Little Tennessee River flows for 135 miles from its source in the mountains of northern Georgia to its mouth along the Tennessee River opposite Lenoir City, Tennessee. The dam is in a remote area where the westward-flowing river bends briefly to the south. Fontana Dam is a 30-mile drive from the three nearest cities — Maryville, Tennessee to the west, Bryson City, North Carolina to the east, and Robbinsville, North Carolina, to the south. Byways 41
The Great Smoky Mountains rise to the north, and the Yellow Creek Mountains, mostly protected by the Nantahala National Forest, rise to the south. Fontana is the uppermost of five dams on the Little Tennessee River, with Cheoah Dam being 10 miles downstream, followed by Calderwood Dam, Chilhowee Dam, and Tellico Dam. The lake’s deep, cold waters provide the ideal habitat for a variety of fish. Record size muskie and walleye have been pulled from its depths. And many believe it’s one of the best smallmouth bass fishing lakes in the country, including the Fisherman’s Bass Tournament Circuit, which has held a Hall of Fame Classic at Fontana.
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and programming that includes traditional music, car club and motorcycle gatherings, outdoor activities and special holiday events. The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad’s historic #1702 steam engine and diesel engines give you an easy ride to enjoy mountain and river views on trips across the Fontana Lake trestle to the Nantahala Gorge, or through a tunnel and past The Fugitive movie train wreck to historic Dillsboro. For more information visit: https://www.greatsmokies.com
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he National Museum of the United States Army, located on 84 acres of land at Fort Belvoir in Northern Virginia -- less than 30 minutes south of Washington, D.C. -- has opened to the public. The museum honors and celebrates the service and sacrifice of the more than 30 million men and women who have worn the Army uniform since 1775. As the Army’s front door, the Museum is an enduring effort to tell the Army’s story and honor the accomplishments, sacrifices and commitment of American Soldiers. The Museum is the first comprehensive and truly national museum to capture, display and interpret more than 245 years of Army history. The Museum brings to life that history in times of war and peace as told through the eyes of Soldiers. The Museum is the first to tell the entire Byways 44
history of the nation’s oldest military service, immersing visitors in the story of the U.S. Army through compelling galleries, moving exhibits, a multisensory 300-degree theater, tranquil rooftop garden, and hundreds of historic treasures rarely or never-before seen by the public.
The Museum is open every day, except December 25. Free, timed-tickets are required for entry and available for request through the Museum’s website at the NMUSA.org. Due to high demand, the Foundation encourages individuals to wait for their ticket confirmation before making travel plans. Construction of the $200-million privately and publicly funded Museum broke
ground in 2016, with the main building consisting of 185,000 square feet that displays Army artifacts, documents. The Museum is a joint effort between the U.S. Army and the Army Historical Foundation. The Foundation constructed the building with private funds. The U.S. Army provided the infrastructure, roads, utilities and exhibit work that transformed the building into a museum.
A few artifacts include the M3 Bradley Cavalry Fighting Vehicle that led the 2003 charge from Kuwait to Baghdad; the M4A3E2
Sherman “Jumbo” Tank, known as “Cobra King” which was the first tank to break through German lines during the Battle of the Bulge in World War II; one of the few remaining “Higgins boats” certified to have carried U.S. troops ashore Normandy on D-Day; and a World War I Liberty Truck, Korean War-vintage Jeep and Huey helicopter. Other attractions inside the Museum are the Soldiers’ Stories Gallery, Army and Society Gallery and Fighting for the Nation Galleries, which cover the Army’s history from the Revolutionary War to the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. “The U.S. Army has greatly aided the nation’s
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progress and prosperity. Soldiers have conducted countless missions in the areas of exploration and discovery, science and technology, communications and cooperation, and recovery and disaster relief,” retired Gen. Gordon R. Sullivan, chairman of the Army Historical Foundation, said. “Nearly every major event in our nation’s history has involved the U.S. Army, and this Museum ensures those contributions and sacrifices are not lost to time.” Army veterans, or loved ones on their behalf, can submit their story of service through the Registry of the American Soldier: Byways 46
https://armyhistory.org/the-registries/ For more information about the Museum, and to purchase a personalized commemorative brick, unit marker or memorial bench, visit https://www.thenmusa.org
The M3A2 Bradley Fighting Vehicle
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators / Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents,
bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ŠCopyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
Editor & Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet
bywaysmagazine.com stephen.kirchner@gmail.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter
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