Byways Oceans 2019

Page 1

Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Oceans 2019 Cruising the New England Coast America’s Beginnings at Jamestown-Yorktown Wilmington, Beer & Beach Town Discover St. Lucie’s ‘Yesteryear’ Charm Corpus Christi, On the Gulf Discovery Route on California’s Central Coast


Byways • 2


Instant Connect

Direct one-click digital links to our Advertisers

Byways Magazine ŠCopyright 2019 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. For more than 36 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada. Byways is published in three versions. The is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. A Byways Podcast is available on major podcast apps, including the Apple Podcast app. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 or Email http://bywaysmagazine.com Byways • 3


PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

In his Highways and Byways column, Bill Graves is in elcome to Byways Oceans Wilmington viewing the USS North Carolina Memorial. edition, 2019. Each year we feature destinations along the At her commissioning in 1941, this battleship was called coasts, the Atlantic, the Gulf and the the world’s greatest sea weapon. Its commissioning came at a time when the Pacific Pacific. fleet was demoralized after the surprise attack. The In Cruising the New England Coast, arrival of the North Carolina was a shot in the arm for the Pat Woods takes a cruise aboard Victory men at Pearl Harbor. II to coastal regions of Massachusetts, Rhode Island and There’s no need to pre-purchase tickets for the amuseMaine. Newport, Martha’s Vineyard, Provincetown, ment park in St. Lucie, Florida, because nature is the big Portland, Bar Harbor and Kennebunkport are just some attraction. of the stops along the way. Its 10,000+ acres of public nature preserves exist in St. Pat notes that Victory II’s shore excursions, internet, Lucie—Fort Pierce, Port St. Lucie & Hutchinson Island. meals and free-flowing alcohol were all included in the Here you’ll find a coastal south Florida destination that fare. still retains its small town charm, a slow-paced island This year marks the lifestyle and natural 412th anniversary of the Florida landscapes that 1607 founding in are reminiscent of genVirginia of America’s erations ago. first permanent English Hiking, paddling, settlement, Jamestown. horseback riding on the It offers historical interbeach, and birdwatchpretation in outdoor reing are top activities creations of a Powhatan here. Indian village, 1607 In Corpus Christi, English ships and coloyou can explore nial fort. sparkling expanses of But this area is known windswept beaches on for not just one historical the Gulf of Mexico, event, but two. The second was the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, San Simeon feast on the freshest establishment of the CA. Photo courtesy Mary Charlebois. seafood and relax under the warm Texas United States as a new sky. nation, almost two centuries later. The Battle of The bayfront/downtown area offers more than 1,200 Yorktown was the final culminating event in the defeat hotel rooms, some of the city’s finest dining options, a of the British Army in the Revolutionary War. The new American Revolution Museum at Yorktown marina and museums. Beaches are not far away. The shores vary and each represents two living-history museums that explore the beach has its own unique appeal: for some, the gentle story of America’s beginnings, from the founding of waves creating a tranquil atmosphere, and for others, an America’s first permanent English colony in 1607 to the offshore wind lends the beach appeal to surfers and Revolution and the establishment of the new nation. wakeboarders. From history to beer and beaches. Next up is America’s Birding Capital, Corpus Christi and the Wilmington, North Carolina, named one of “America’s Beeriest Beach Towns”. Beer lovers can also create their Coastal Bend form one of the richest birding areas in the own self-guided tour with the help of the Wilmington country. For ten years running, Corpus Christi won the title of America’s Birdiest City. Ale Trail, a complete guide to all things breweries. In May of 2017, over a million tons of rock and dirt And just minutes from Wilmington’s award-winning buried a quarter-mile section of California Highway 1, river district are the island beaches of Carolina Beach, south of Big Sur. The slide closed a 12-mile segment Kure Beach and Wrightsville Beach, each with its own from Ragged Point to Gorda. coastal vibe.

W

Byways • 4


This effectively cut off this part of California from the rest of the state for more than one year. After a herculean effort by engineers and workers to remove the debris and rebuild the road, it was reopened in July of 2018. Mary Charlebois takes us back to this region to rediscover all that was lost during this time. In What’s Happening, we learn about Oregon’s Coast Aquarium. It showcases seabirds, marine mammals, fishes, invertebrates and plants primarily native to the Oregon coast. The aquarium is situated on 39-acres overlooking Yaquina Bay, adjacent to an estuary and opposite Newport’s Historic Bayfront and working harbor. In Gatlinburg, TN we discover SkyBridge, the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in North America. From the top of the Gatlinburg SkyLift, the SkyBridge quite literally crosses the sky as it stretches 680 feet across a deep valley. And with a glass bottom at its center span, it’s an unobstructed view to the valley floor below! We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

United States Naval Academy Undergraduate College of the U.S. Navy Guided Walking Tours include the Naval Academy Chapel, Crypt of John Paul Jones, Statue of Tecumseh and the history and traditions of the U.S. Naval Academy, Annapolis, MD. HISTORICAL, EDUCATIONAL, JEWISH CHAPEL AND MILITARY REUNION TOURS

Naval Academy Gift Shop, Restrooms, Exhibits, Film U.S. Naval Academy

r Click fo

Video

Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center r Video o f k c i l C

(410) 293-8112 Scheduling (410) 293-3365 (fax) www.usnabsd.com/for-visitors Visitor Center Hours January-February: 9 am - 4 pm March-December 9 am - 5 pm Photo ID required, ages 18 and over

Byways • 5


Video r o f k c i Cl

r Video Click fo

6 • Byways


Volume 36, Issue No. 3 2019 On the cover. The Portland Head Light is one of eight operating lighthouses along the 3,500-mile Maine coast. For more on cruising the New England coast, turn to page 8. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

Features Oceans 2019 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cruising the New England Coast on Victory II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 America’s Beginnings at Jamestown-Yorktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Wilmington, Beer & Beach Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 USS North Carolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Discover St. Lucie’s ‘Yesteryear’ Charm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Corpus Christi, on the Gulf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Highway 1 Discovery Route on California’s Central Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Departments Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

What’s Happening Oregon’s Coast Aquarium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Gatlinburg’s New SkyBridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Coming in future issues of Byways ...Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads and much more!

Next Up: Rivers & Lakes. At right, Lake Buchannan Dam viewed from the Torr Na Lochs Winery in the Texas Hill Country. Byways photo.

Byways • 7


Oceans 2019

The 1799 Gay Head lighthouse is one of five lighthouses on Martha’s Vineyard, MA. Photo courtesy Pat Woods. 8 • Byways


Cruising the New England Coast on the Victory II Story and Photos by Pat Woods

Byways • 9


Victory II docked in Portland, Maine.

O

n a sunny September Sunday we felt privileged to gaze at beautiful Portland Head Lighthouse on the rugged Maine Coast. A New England vacation had been on my bucket list for years, so when I learned Victory Cruiselines offered a New England Coastal cruise on their newest ship, Victory II, I was hooked. Originally launched in 2004, Victory II formerly sailed as the Cape Cod Light and Sea Discoverer. The 202-passenger vessel was renovated and relaunched as Victory II in July 2018. It is nearly identical to its sister ship, Victory I, launched in 2016. Destination focused and included in prices, Victory II shore excursion tours are led by knowledgeable local guides. Although we were a bit early for autumn color, we enjoyed lovely fall weather during four port visits. The ports are listed in order of best phtography opportunities and, in our view, best excursions. 10 • Byways

Portland, Maine Leafy tree-lined streets showcase lovely Victorian mansions with Atlantic Ocean vistas. Richard, our guide, pointed out stately homes built for ship captains who could look down to their ships in the harbor. Today those homes are condos. The Old Port waterfront is home to active fishing wharfs as well as warehouses converted to eateries, shops and museums. Locally-owned eateries along the waterfront offer an array of mouth-watering seafood. Tourism, lobster and seafood fishing sustain the local economy for this city of 70,000. Maine’s jagged rocky coast boasts eight operating lighthouses along its 3,500 miles. Boston is an hour away by Amtrak. During a tour of nearby scenic Kennebunkport we saw the Bush family compound on Walker Point.


Provincetown, Massachusetts On the tip of the Cape Cod peninsula, this small New England town celebrates its history. A trolley tour showed us the 1,200-foot McMillan Pier and business district. The Provincetown Museum’s fascinating exhibits depict challenges Mayflower pilgrims experienced during the five weeks they stayed in Provincetown before sailing on to Plymouth. Completed in 1910, the 252-foot granite Pilgrim Monument commemorates the first pilgrim landing in 1620.

Newport, Rhode Island Newport’s Preservation Society tour guides showed us mansions once owned by the rich and famous who gathered there during the 1880 to 1930 Gilded Age. Newport has been called “America’s Versailles” because of its elaborate architecture. We toured The Elms, summer home of coal magnate Edward Berwind and his family. The Breakers, grandest of Newport’s summer residences, is symbolic of the Vanderbilt family wealth. It was the summer estate of railroad magnet Cornelius Vanderbilt and his family. Visitors learn how the new

domestic technology transformed daily life with electricity, elevators, modern plumbing and laundry facilities. The Vanderbilt family enjoyed lovely Atlantic views from an open-air living room.

Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts A touring van driven by a knowledgeable resident deftly navigated through the six small towns, each with its own character and architecture that form the island of Martha’s Vineyard. We passed hundreds of tiny colorful gingerbread cottages, contrasting stately Victorian mansions and black-and-white saltbox homes in other island communities. Along the way are a profusion of fishing villages, lighthouses and fabulous beaches. Roadside stands purvey locally grown produce on the honor system. Our guide pointed out 300-year-old stone fences, the oldest general store in the U.S. and the site where the movie Jaws was filmed using local residents as extras. A highlight was a photo op of the 1799 Gay Head lighthouse, one of five lighthouses on Martha’s Vineyard. Fast food eateries are prohibited on this island with a Harbor scene in Kennebunkport, Maine. Photos courtesy Pat Woods.

Byways • 11


year-round population of 27,000. Whaling was big from the 1700s to 1860, and a few sheep farms remain. Today’s economy is driven by tourism. We heard fascinating stories about the rich and famous including the Kennedys, Obamas and movie stars as we caught views of their homes. Those who can afford to live anywhere seem to prefer the slower pace and seclusion of Martha’s Vineyard.

Bar Harbor, Maine This pretty port town on the rugged Maine Coast was an ideal setting for a tasty lunch of clam chowder, lobster rolls, potato salad and sinfully delicious blueberry pie at the elegant Bar Harbor Inn. The views from the dining room were especially stunning. Shoppers enjoyed browsing in dozens of shops. On a motorcoach tour of Acadia National Park we enjoyed a scenic overlook from Cadillac Mountain.

Onboard Victory II A complimentary cocktail hour was held every night in the Great Lakes Lounge. Talented musicians from Florida provided daily cocktail hour and afterdinner music. The rugged Maine coast in Acadia National Park. Photos courtesy Pat Woods.

12 • Byways

Duke’s County Courthouse on Martha’s Vineyard.


When not in port, Victory II guests could attend onboard lectures on photography with smart phones, ship navigation, New England lobsters, whales and other wildlife. A wine tasting/food pairing class, trivia and galley tours were popular group activities. A cruise photo contest encouraged guests to show off their cruise pics. Most guests were well traveled retirees who enjoy learning. During three themed afternoon teas, guests enjoyed delectable treats created by the pastry chef. Music by Mozart enhanced the Viennese tea One of many “Gingerbread” where guests chose from a table of sweet treats. houses on Martha’s Vineyard. Cruises are known for good food, and Victory II’s dining crew delivered. Coffee and pas- genial officers, international crew and our new friends. To learn more about Victory Cruiselines exciting itintries were out at 6:00am for early risers. Tasty, perfectlyseasoned and nicely presented meals were well received. eraries, visit www.VictoryCruiselines.com, call 1-888Guests could eat in the Victory dining room on deck 1 or 907-2636 or contact your travel agent. If you go, bring the Lighthouse Bar & Grille on deck 4 where they could sturdy walking shoes to navigate stairs and uneven pavecook their entrées on tabletop hot rock lava grills. This ment in some ports. scenic deck was popular for lunch buffets. Victory II’s shore excursions, internet, meals and freeAbout the Author: flowing alcohol are included in the fare. Our cruise A widely published Arizonabegan with a well-orchestrated embarkation at the based cruise and travel writer, Pat Gloucester cruise port, 48 miles north of Boston. We Woods urges readers to SKI (spend took a commuter train from North Station in Boston to the kids’ inheritance) on a cruise. Gloucester for $5.25 per person. Friendly train crew members and other passengers cheerfully helped offload our luggage. Too soon it was time to bid farewell to the ship’s conAtlantic Ocean view from the outdoor living room of the Breakers, the former summer estate of Cornelius Vanderbilt in Newport, RI.

Byways • 13


America’s Beginnings at Jamestown-Yorktown

The original Godspeed was one of three ships to set sail from London on December 20, 1606, bound for Virginia. The ships carried 105 passengers and 39 crew members on the four-month transatlantic voyage. Photos courtesy Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation. 14 • Byways


Byways • 15


Jamestown Settlement Quadricentennial Plaza.

T

his year Historic Jamestown and Jamestown Settlement are marking the 412th anniversary of the 1607 founding in Virginia of America’s first permanent English settlement. Take a journey of historic proportions at Jamestown Settlement and the new American Revolution Museum at Yorktown — two living-history museums that explore the story of America’s beginnings, from the founding of America’s first permanent English colony in 1607 to the Revolution and the establishment of a new nation almost two centuries later. Discover artifact-filled exhibition galleries and take part in activities in outdoor living-history areas to learn about life in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Jamestown Settlement Jamestown Settlement features expansive exhibition galleries and films that connect visitors with the lives of the Powhatan, English and west central African cultures that converged at 17th-century Jamestown. It offers historical interpretation in outdoor re-creations of a Powhatan Indian village, 1607 English ships and colonial fort. Jamestown Settlement is a stage for special exhibitions, events and programs in conjunction with the 2019 Commemoration, American Evolution, honoring the 400th anniversary of key historical events in Virginia in 1619. 16 • Byways

Jamestown Settlement Powhatan Indian Village Co


ooking.

American Revolution Museum at Yorktown farm.

r Click fo

Video

The original Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery set sail from London on December 20, 1606, bound for Virginia. The ships carried 105 passengers and 39 crew members on the four-month transatlantic voyage. A Kneading bread in Jamestown Settlement.

17th-century source noted that a total of 71 people were aboard the Susan Constant, 52 aboard the Godspeed and 21 aboard the Discovery. The expedition was sponsored by the Virginia Company of London, a business venture that had been organized to form a colony in Virginia. The Byways • 17


Continental Army encampment, earthen kitchen cooking. Photos courtesy Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation. fleet reached the Virginia coast in late April and, after two weeks of inland waterway exploration, arrived at the selected settlement site on May 13, 1607. The settlement was located within the country of Tsenacommacah, which belonged to the Powhatan Confederacy, and specifically in that of the Paspahegh tribe. The natives initially welcomed and provided crucial provisions and support for the colonists, who were not agriculturally inclined. Relations soured fairly early on, however, leading to the total annihilation of the Paspahegh in warfare within three years. Mortality was very high at Jamestown itself due to disease and starvation, with over 80 percent of the colonists perishing in 1609–10 in what became known as the “Starving Time”. Jamestown Settlement is located on State Route 31 near the Colonial Parkway in James City County, just southwest of Williamsburg.

American Revolution Museum The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown tells the story of the nation’s founding, from the twilight of the colonial period to the dawn of the Constitution and beyond. Exciting indoor galleries feature period artifacts, immersive environments, interactive exhibits and films, 18 • Byways

Raising the sail on Discovery at Jamestown.


tobacco barn, gardens and crops. The state-operated museum of the American Revolution, named one of the New York Times’ 52 Places to Visit in 2019, is an excellent starting point for a tour of Yorktown. For additional information, visit: https://www.historyisfun.org The Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery.

including “The Siege of Yorktown,” with a 180-degree surround screen and dramatic special effects. Outdoors, enlist in the Continental Army in a re-created encampment to learn about the life of a soldier and take in daily demonstrations on medical treatment, camp life and cooking, and see firings of musket and artillery. Explore a Revolution-era farm, based on a real-life 18thcentury family, to help with chores in the house, kitchen,

Continental Army encampment, flash from flintlock musket. Photo courtesy American Revolution Museum at Yorktown.

Byways • 19


Wilmington, Beer & Beach Town

Front Street Brewery. Photos courtesy Wilmington and Beaches CVB. cate customers about good environmental stewardship and contribute to the sustainability of local charities through its “Beer of the Month” program where a different nonprofit receives proceeds from the featured beer. At Carolina Beach, Good Hops Brewing is a familyowned and operated small-batch brewery that is dogand family-friendly, offering beers of all styles from golden ales to IPAs. Good Hops increased in size with new seven-barrel and 10-barrel fermenters, meaning bigger and better beer production in 2019. Don’t miss out on the Boardwalk Brown Ale, Flip Hop IPA, Donna Golden Ale or – a classic – the Good Hops Pale Ale. Plus, the 18-hole par 3 disc golf course located on the brewery’s four acres of land makes for a unique experience guests are unlikely to find elsewhere. The Beach Brews Recently named one of the “6 Breweries with Meals course is open to the public during daylight hours. that Rival Their Beers” by Our State Magazine, Historical Locations Wrightsville Beach Brewery is known for its eleven difFront Street Brewery, Wilmington’s original brewery ferent craft beer options, like the Airlie Amber Ale, Oysterman Stout, Wilmywood Wit and Waterway IPA , and restaurant, was founded in 1995 and has kept its and for its great food, especially signature and unique award-winning beer flowing ever since. The brewpub items like its kimchi and fried oyster bites or shrimp-and- took home nine medals during the Carolina Championship for Beer in 2018 for its Amberjack ESB, grits pizza. Wrightsville Beach Brewery frequently features live Port City IPA, Slainte Irish Red, Afterglow Vienna music events in its beer garden, free brewery tours and Lager, Spring Brew, Coastal Kolsch, Sinful Stout, Papa tastings and cask tapping as well. Additionally, the brew- Don’t Peach Sour and Henry Helles Boch. Swing by for an afternoon tour and tasting or stop in pub not only serves delicious beers but also aims to edu-

W

ilmington, NC, has been named one of “America’s Beeriest Beach Towns” and was listed among the top five places to experience a “beery, beachside getaway” by CraftBeer.com. From solar-power to a ship-shaped bar to a disc golf course, Wilmington and its island beaches have a variety of unique breweries that will quench the taste buds of all beer drinkers. And if you are planning a beer-based getaway, why not do it at the coast! From the downtown river district and Riverwalk that skirts the storied Cape Fear River to the new and modern facilities that are remaking the riverfront’s skyline, Wilmington, NC is a must-see southern destination.

20 • Byways


The brewery specializes in American- and Belgianstyle ales with a constantly rotating draft list, while also educating visitors about the Venus flytrap, its shrinking habitats and ways to protect the plant from extinction. Located in Wilmington’s Brooklyn Arts District, Flytrap is not only a brewery, but also a place where locals and visitors meet and mingle, artists display their works and live music can be heard every weekend. Food trucks are parked outside the brewery every Friday and Saturday, like Pepe’s Tacos and Urban Street Eats.

Tours and More

Why visit just one brewery during your trip when you can visit multiple! Spend your afternoon aboard Port City Brew Bus, which offers fun, educational, private or public tours to several local breweries to explore their brewing process and enjoy samples of their offerings. Port City Brew Bus guides are craft beer aficionados who will work alongside individual brewers to customize each tour and make it the right fit for any beer drinker. The Brunch & Brews Tour hits three local breweries and features small brunch plates paired with a pint, while the Downtown & Midtown Sampler takes participants to three breweries in Wilmington to learn more about each spot’s brewing process and partake in some samples. Beer lovers can also create their own self-guided tour Flytrap Brewing pays homage with the help of the Wilmington Ale Trail, a complete to the Venus flytrap. guide to all things breweries, bottleshops and bars in Wilmington. It also includes information about local for a late-night snack and craft beer nightcap, the restau- craft beer festivals – which take place throughout the rant serves a full menu until midnight. year – and tour information to make your coastal brew Located inside a 111-year old historic firehouse in hopping vacation complete. Wilmington’s Brooklyn Arts District, Edward Teach Brewing features a two-story ship-shaped bar with eight Watersports craft beers on tap. When you leave the pubs, enjoy the city’s waterways The brewery’s moniker is a nod to the infamous pirate and make a splash with one of the many watersports Blackbeard, real name Edward Teach, that frequented activities Wilmington and the Island Beaches have to the shores and shallows of North Carolina. To find offer. Edward Teach Brewing, look for the flag Blackbeard Just minutes from Wilmington’s award-winning river flew over the Queen Anne’s Revenge at the door. district are the island beaches of Carolina Beach, Kure Beach and Wrightsville Beach, each with its own coastal Environmentally-Friendly Stops vibe. With the ocean to the east, the Intracoastal Indulging in a beer can be “good” for the environment, Waterway and Cape Fear River to the west and marshes too. Mad Mole Brewing is Wilmington’s first solar-pow- in-between, the beaches invite surfing, boating, swimered brewery. Solar panels installed on the building’s ming, kayaking, fishing and standup paddling. roof use the sun’s rays to power the brewery’s seven-barHop aboard an area cruise to see Wrightsville Beach rel system. Take some time to enjoy the sun yourself and from the water or take a walking tour for a unique vansip on a signature beverage like the Marilyn MonMole, tage point of this island's fascinating history. Darth Mole, Boston Mole Party or Raspberry Molay in With themed tours and cruises including eco-tours, the brewery’s outdoor, dog-friendly beer garden. sunset cruises, pirate treasure hunts and more, fun and Flytrap Brewing pays homage to the Venus flytrap, a educational experiences await. carnivorous plant whose only native habitat in the world For more information: can be found within a 60-mile radius of Wilmington and https://www.wilmingtonandbeaches.com can be seen in the wild a short drive away at Carolina Beach State Park or at Stanley Rehder Carnivorous Plant Garden. Byways • 21


Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves

C

arl Marshburn and I were in the pilot house of the 156-foot Henrietta III. With the last line taken in, Carl gave a long blast on the ship’s horn as we pulled away from Wilmington’s river-walk. “When I got this boat in 2000, the first thing I had to do was put windows in the main deck salon. Casinos don’t have windows, guessthey don’t want customers distracted.” Henrietta III once plied the Mississippi with 330 slot machines. It has the classic wedding-cake profile of a riverboat with the two stacks amidships crowned with black tiaras. But no paddle-wheel churns white water at the stern, no wood burning boilers throw out a trail of smoke. As the ship swung to head down river, his son Daren took the helm and shifted control to the starboard wing of the bridge. Carl put on a microphone to begin his narration for those onboard for the lunch cruise.

USS North Carolina Here the Cape Fear River widens making a natural harbor that became a port, later chartered as the city of Wilmington in 1739. Passing the decommissioned USS North Carolina — it’s at a pier, but sits on the river bottom — Carl said it was the first of a new class of battleships that joined the U.S. Fleet at the start of World War II. At her commissioning in 1941, she was called the world’s greatest sea weapon. When the North Carolina entered Pearl Harbor, a few months after Japan’s surprise attack on Hawaii in 1941, sailors and shipyard workers lined the shore, the docks, and the decks of ships to cheer her arrival. Passing the capsized and sunken ships along battleship row, the ship’s crew stood silently and saluted. They were saluting the crew of USS Arizona who were still onboard, entombed in the sunken ship where they remain to this day. The arrival of the North Carolina was a shot in the arm for the men at Pearl Harbor. Historians have called that day a turning point in the morale of the Pacific Fleet. In the months following, all but two of those battleships

USS North Carolina. Photo courtesy Doc Searls.


were re-stored to duty, and later, USS North Carolina at with North Carolina, took the war Pearl Harbor, November, 1942. across the Pacific and to Japan’s Photo courtesy U.S. Navy. home islands. North Carolina participated in every major campaign in the Pacific. The Japanese claimed that they had sunk her six times, but saw how wrong they where when she dropped anchor in Tokyo Bay in September 1945. Decommissioned two years later, she was saved from being scrapped by school children statewide. They held fundraisers to bring the ship here to Wilmington. Now a World War II Memorial, open to the public, she remains as a relevant reminder of weapon system of a one-time hated enemy is relevant that war and the Americans who fought it. now only to scuba divers on summer weekends. Carl said that during World War II, 243 liberty ships were made in a shipyard that was here then. “For a while, they launched a ship every three days. About the author: After seeing much of the world as a German submarines would lie in wait off Cape Fear career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to and the outer banks then, hoping to pick off newly built take a closer look at the United States. He has been roamliberty ships. They never did.” ing the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome But subs were successful in torpedoing several mer- with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, chant ships and tankers. California and is the author of On the Back Roads, One German U-boat, U-85, was sunk off the Cape in Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached 1942. On the bottom at 100-feet, this death-dealing at Roadscribe@aol.com.

Not available in AK,HI,IN,ME,MN,ND, WY.

Byways • 23


Discover St. Lucie’s ‘Yesteryear’ Charm Natural Florida’s Hiking, Paddling, Horseback Riding & More

In Fort Pierce, Florida’s rich heritage of cattle ran on through today’s recreational horseback riding 24 • Byways


nchers and equine activities have continued g opportunities that are available to all. Byways • 25


Kayaking on the Indian River Lagoon in Fort Pierce. Photos courtesy VisitStLucie.com.

T

here’s no need to pre-purchase tickets for the amusement park here, because in St. Lucie, nature is the big attraction. The only crowds you’ll encounter might be a large flock of wading birds…so soak up the natural beauty of Florida in St. Lucie with a day of hiking, kayaking, or horseback riding. Looking for some of Florida’s best nature observation opportunities? Look no further than the 10,000+ acres of public nature preserves that exist in St. Lucie—Fort Pierce, Port St. Lucie & Hutchinson Island. Imagine a coastal south Florida destination that still retains its small town charm, a slow-paced island lifestyle and natural Florida landscapes that are reminiscent from generations ago. To the east on Hutchinson Island, find uncrowded and beautiful sandy beaches that awaken with the morning sun to the ranchland restorations and cypress hammocks in the western part of Fort Pierce that glow gold just before twilight. St. Lucie is home to the historic city of Fort Pierce, the 26 • Byways

vibrant city of Port St. Lucie and the beautiful beaches of Hutchinson Island. It is located on the Atlantic Ocean along the east coast of Florida, 120 miles southeast of Orlando and 115 miles north of Miami with direct access from Florida’s Turnpike, Interstate 95 and State Road 70. The area offers an array of visitor activities including beautiful beaches, championship golf, excellent outdoor and nature adventures, a thriving arts and cultural scene, world-class fishing and dozens of unique attractions. A variety of affordable accommodations such as hotels, motels, bed & breakfasts, vacation condos/homes and an all-inclusive resort are available.

Hiking

Visitors can enjoy guided nature tours, or if preferred, immerse themselves in the beauty of nature on a selfguided hikes. For Guided Nature Programs, visitors should contact St. Lucie County’s Environmental Resources Department at 772-462-2536 to register for free hikes. The Savannas Preserve State Park in Port St. Lucie also offers guided hikes, call 772-398-2779 or


772-340-7530 for more quiet, majestic scenic river canopied by century old oaks, information. Spanish moss and palms is flowing through the middle of Florida’s 8th largest city. Spot alligators sunning Paddling themselves on tree stumps and turtles diving below the The Indian River surface. The birds that inhabit here are stunning. Guided Lagoon, the nation’s most paddling tours, equipment rentals or chartered wildlife biologically diverse estu- boat tours are available. ary is a haven for Florida At the Savannas Preserve State Park, visitors will find wildlife and nature obser- a representative sample of a basin marsh that extended vation. Drift through man- throughout south Florida prior to the rapid urban sprawl. grove tunnels, spot Canoe or kayak these marshes and discover the diversimanatees, sea turtles or ty of habitats that wildlife enthusiasts and photographers dolphin, view ospreys go crazy for. feeding their young along with pelicans, herons, Horseback Riding St. Lucie’s rich heritage of cattle ranchers and equine egrets, roseate spoonbills and more species of birds. activities have continued on through today’s recreational Rent or reserve a guided horseback riding opportunities that are available to all. tour to kayak or stand up Book a guided trail ride with experienced horses and paddle board. Or sit back, guides and discover the beauty of St. Lucie’s undisturbed relax and enjoy a chartered nature from the back of a horse. For those looking to really make a memorable experiwildlife boat cruise. The St. Lucie River is a ence, Frederick Douglass Memorial Beach in Fort Pierce brackish body of water that on Hutchinson Island is the only beach in south Florida winds through the heart of that allows horses. Guided tours are available. Go to Port St. Lucie. Visitors www.beachtoursonhorseback.com. would never know that this Self-guided hiking tours.

Byways • 27


Horseback riding trail. Photos courtesy VisitStLucie.com.

Love Birdwatching? St. Lucie has several nature preserves that are listed on the Great Florida Birding & Wildlife Trail including: Bear Point Sanctuary, Fort Pierce Inlet State Park, Indrio Savannahs Preserve, Pinelands Preserve and Savannas Preserve State Park. The species vary amongst these natural areas where

you will find wading birds such as herons, egrets and the Roseate Spoonbill, to wild turkeys, Sandhill Cranes and Spotted Sandpipers. When exploring be prepared with binoculars, water, insect repellant and sunscreen. For more information on the Great Florida Birding Trail, visit: www.floridabirdingtrail.com. Birdwatching from Platts Creek.

28 • Byways


For All Things in St. Lucie: Nearby commercial airports include Palm Beach International (PBI), Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood (FLL) and Miami International Airport (MIA). For more details on visiting St. Lucie, visit www.visitstlucie.com

Walking on the beach on North Hutchinson Island.

St. Lucie’s 21 miles of uncrowded and pristine beaches, where nearly half the coastline is public preservation, is a rare characteristic for a South Florida beach destination.

r Video o f k c i l C

Byways • 29


Downtown viewed from the Port of Corpus Christi. Photo courtesy Port of Corpus Christi.

Corpus Christi, on the Gulf

I

n Corpus Christi, you can explore sparkling expanses of windswept beaches, feast on the freshest seafood and relax under the warm Texas sky. Vacationing on the Gulf Coast won’t break the bank; with special savings and value pricing, you can afford to bring friends, or the whole family. Corpus Christi’s bayfront/downtown area offers more than 1,200 hotel rooms, some of the city’s finest dining options, a marina and museums. The Marina Arts District in downtown features excellent eateries and the Corpus Christi Municipal Marina. This zone also includes the Sports, Entertainment and Arts District which includes the Museum of South Texas, the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History, Concrete Street Amphitheater and Hurricane Alley Waterpark. Beaches are not far away. The shores vary and each beach has its own unique appeal: for some, the gentle waves creating a tranquil atmosphere, and for others, an offshore wind lends the beach appeal to surfers and wakeboarders.

Whitecap Beach If you’re looking for something more relaxing, do as the locals do and try Whitecap Beach. The white sands on this peaceful shore are untouched, and many come here to get away from the potential bustle of the busier beaches. This beach is the best place for small gatherings or groups to enjoy a quiet day, or even for someone fly30 • Byways

ing solo to take a deep breath and get away from it all. It also serves as one entrance to the Padre Island Seawall, a lovely spot for taking a stroll or bike ride. The windswept shore of Whitecap Beach stretches 1.5 miles.

North Beach Located just across the Harbor Bridge, North Beach is a 1.5-mile-long beautiful sandy beach, home to some of Corpus Christi’s hottest attractions as well as a wide variety of places to eat and drink while taking in the stunning bayfront views. It is home to two of Corpus Christi's most iconic attractions, the USS Lexington and the Texas State Aquarium. History comes to life when you come aboard the USS Lexington, an aircraft carrier turned museum. This gigantic ship is equipped with a 2-acre flight deck with planes for the kids and adults to explore. The USS Lexington, CV-16, is a World War II-vintage aircraft carrier. Commissioned in 1943, she served the United States longer and set more records than any other carrier in the history of naval aviation. Decommissioned in 1991, the USS Lexington is open year-round seven days a week for touring and special events. The exhibits take you back in time as you explore the Lexington’s captain’s cabin, dental clinic and engine room. Feeling brave? Ask about ghost tours and overnight stays.


Open since 1990, the Texas State Aquarium’s mission is to engage people with animals, inspire appreciation for our seas, and support wildlife conservation. Each year, the Texas State Aquarium brings the stories of marine and coastal animals and their habitats to life through its many exhibits. Here you will discover the amazing underwater worlds of the Gulf of Mexico, Dolphin Bay trainer interacts with the Caribbean, and dolphins at Texas State Aquarium. beyond. Travel on an aquatic journey from the shores of the Gulf of Mexico out into blue crabs, and wild Gulf shrimp are regulars at the open sea to encounter thousands of animals repre- Groomer's. Pack it up in ice and take a taste of the coast back home.You also can enjoy portions of fresh sushi senting more than 360 species. Stop by Groomer’s Seafood in North Beach to find the cuts from the same fresh fish that goes to your favorite freshest seafood and the catch of the day. Local redfish, sushi restaurants throughout Corpus Christi.

r Video o f k c i l C

The impressive Texas State Aquarium. Photos courtesy Texas State Aquarium.

Byways • 31


The USS Lexington aircraft carrier is on permanent display in Corpus Christi. Photo courtesy ©Travis Witt and Wikimedia Commons.

McGee Beach

You won’t even need a fishing license to enjoy fishing in a state park, and be sure to check out the Tackle If you’re looking for somewhere close to downtown, Loaner Program if you’re looking to borrow a rod, reel, look no farther than McGee Beach. Located on the or tackle box. Corpus Christi bay, this bustling beach is typically free from seaweed, clearing the azure waters for a picturesque view and great swimming. The location is superb, History The city’s population is more than 320,000, making it and convenient rentals are nearby. Children and adults the eighth-most populous city in Texas. alike can enjoy the calm waters. The city’s name means Body of Christ in Latin. The name was given to the settlement and surrounding bay Surfs Up by Spanish explorer Alonso Álvarez de Pineda in 1519, Known to the locals as the J.P. Luby Surf Park, North as he discovered the lush semitropical bay on the Packery Beach is a veritable wonderland for surfing, jetskiing, kiteboarding, wakeboarding, and more. During Catholic feast day of Corpus Christi The Port of Corpus Christi, which is the fifth-largest the summer months, this beach stays packed with Spring U.S. port and deepest inshore port on the Gulf of Breakers, locals, families, and more. The more adventurous beach-goers here can surf and Mexico, handles mostly oil and agricultural products. snorkel to their heart’s content, while landlubbers can Much of the local economy is driven by tourism and the still take a stroll along the beach or bring the fixings to oil and petrochemicals industry. Learn more about the city’s history at the Corpus get a barbecue going. There’s something for everyone! Christi Museum of Science & History. Traverse the The Gulf’s waters stay warm year-round, ensuring a plentiful supply of fish for those interested in surf fish- world of South Texas and marvel at treasures from a ing. Aspiring fishermen and fisherwomen can grab a spot 1554 Spanish shipwreck and the 1686 French shipwreck and cast a line out to secure that big catch. Beginners are “La Belle”. Uncover hundreds of years of local history in the welcome. 32 • Byways


Corpus Christi History Hall and Doc McGregor collec- style way to explore the beach – on horseback! This poption of historical photos. Explore 500 years of guns and ular attraction is open to both beginners and advanced ammo, rocks, minerals, coastal creatures, and even riders. dinosaurs.

National Seashore

America’s Birding Capital Corpus Christi and the Coastal Bend form one of the richest birding areas in the country. For ten years running, Corpus Christi won the title of America’s Birdiest City—not a marketing campaign, but an honor achieved during an annual 72-hour bird count by Audubon birdwatchers all across the country. There are several reasons for this diversity of bird life. Located in the middle of the continent, the Coastal Bend gets birds from both the eastern and western halves of North America, particularly in spring and fall migration. Also, Corpus Christi and the Coastal Bend offer a wide variety of habitats, from gulf beaches to salt marshes and bays, from woodlands to mesquite chaparral and grasslands, which support bird populations year round.

Padre Island Padre Island features several beach options and Bob Hall pier is ideal for fishing and surfing, and is also home to the newest waterpark of the award-winning Schlitterbahn family. Padre Island also offers some of the area’s best dining options and nightlife. Padre Island also features a Texas-

Need to reintroduce yourself to nature? Check out the Padre Island National Seashore. It is the longest undeveloped stretch of barrier island in the world. There are 70 miles of sand and shell beaches, windswept dunes and warm waters. The Padre Island National Seashore is the most important U.S. nesting beach for the endangered Kemp’s ridley sea turtles. Located on the north end of Padre Island, Padre Balli Park is almost 400 acres, all of which is open year-round. Go ahead and hop in the Gulf for a quick swim, or grab your board and enjoy some of the best surfing around. At an impressive 1,240 feet, the Bob Hall Pier extends into the Gulf and serves as a hub for many avid anglers. The pier extends to waters deep enough for fishermen to have a truly different experience, and for beginning anglers to enjoy seeing new types of fish. Expect to see many different species of fish, including grouper and speckled trout. For additional information, http://www.visitcorpuschristitx.org/index.aspx

Bob Hall Pier. Photo courtesy visitcorpuschristitx.org.

Byways • 33


Pacific Ocean waves at Piedras Blancas Light Station, San Simeon CA. 34 • Byways


The Highway 1 Discovery Route on California’s Central Coast Photos and Story by Mary Charlebois

Byways • 35


Piedras Blancas Light Station, San Simeon CA. Photos courtesy Mary Charlebois.

B

etween Big Sur and Santa Barbara, California Highway 1 is open and ready for your visit*. California Central Coast destinations, businesses, lodging, and eateries have crafted the Highway 1 Discovery Route to help you get the most from your trip. Explore an uncrowded and unspoiled region where wildlife, waves, wilderness, and wine rule the day, and where evenings are spent sipping the sundown from beach or hot tub. Tiny towns, friendly locals, small shops, artist studios, hook-to-mouth seafood, homegrown veg, and local wine are the way of life. Open vistas, pristine nature, and the Mediterranean climate are enchanting. Much of the coast is state, federal, and county parks. California’s Hwy 1 in San Luis Obispo County is unequaled for immersing yourself in the California casual way of life.

Discovery Route Sampler of Nature, History, Food and Wine Ragged Point is home to Ragged Point Cliffside Trail, rewarding hikers with a black-sand beach and waterfall. Piedras Blancas Light Station was established in 1875. Long before then, offshore white rocks (piedras blancas) were used for navigation. Today the light station is part of Piedras Blancas Light Station Outstanding Natural Area and California Coastal National Monument. At Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, Elephant Seals, Mirounga angustirostris, claim more than 6-miles 36 • Byways

of San Simeon beach as their rookery. Peak viewing times are December to March, but seals remain yearround. Sebastian’s General Store was built in 1852 to serve the whaling trade and has been in operation since. Housed here you’ll find Hearst Winery tasting room, Sebastian’s Café, and the post office. In the store, you’ll see Hearst Ranch Beef, Hearst Ranch Wines, and Hearst Ranch Olive Oil.

Hearst Castle The former summer home of the publishing giant, William Randolph Hearst, Hearst Castle is an American castle and a California State Park. Tour the mansion and gardens for a glimpse of how Hearst and his celebrity Priceless silver and tapestries at Hearst Castle.


High above the fog at Hearst Castle, San Simeon, CA. Moro Rock at sunset. Morro Bay, CA.

Byways • 37


Avila Beach, CA.

guests lived and played during the first half of the 20thcentury. At the Coastal Discovery Center, curated exhibits describe the whaling station that once prospered here. You can check out binoculars and a wildlife guide for strolling the beach or walking the pier. Cambria is a coastal town alive with art, music, food, and wine. Stroll down Main Street wandering through Coastal Discovery Center, San Simeon, CA.

38 • Byways

galleries, studios, boutiques, and cafes. Leave some time for wine tasting before walking Moonstone Beach at sunset. You might find one of the treasured moonstones. Morro Bay is a small fishing port. The natural scenery is spectacular. The harbor and marina are one of the last small working ports on the coast. This hidden gem is one of my favorite spots for water sport, nature, and seafood. Stroll the Embarcadero for an up-close view of the mari-


Pacific view at Cavalier Oceanfront Resort, San Simeon, CA.

na and majestic Moro Rock. Look closely for spirited sea otters. Avila Beach is a charming beachside community. Tucked into the crook of a fish-hook shaped cove, the village has mild weather most of the year. It’s an ideal combination of sandy beaches and woodlands. There’s plenty to do, see, eat, and drink. Monarch Butterflies Dunes Habitat. From November through February, migrating Monarchs use the dunes and eucalyptus groves for rest from their winter trip to Mexico. It is an astounding spectacle delighting everyone.

Wine Country Arroyo Grande Valley and Edina Valley are wine country and home to over 30-wineries. Not far from the beach, this vino region is unpretentious and laid back. Lodging along the way ranges from oceanfront camping to seaside resorts. Two of my favorites are:”Pelican Inn and Suites in Cambria is across the road from Moonstone Beach. Hot tubs, decks, balconies, and an outdoor pool are made for sunsets. A full breakfast is served that includes Mimosas. The gardens are planted with native plants and hand-crafted benches. Cavalier Oceanfront Resort in San Simeon features ocean view rooms with fireplaces, hot tubs, and balconies. Join the evening bonfire on the Pacific overlook. The whale watching deck and binoculars are handy. Cavalier has a restaurant serving local seafood and beef. For more information about remarkable experiences and events along California’s Central Coast, visit Hwy 1 Discovery Route.

Local fare - prime rib and veggies at Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. *In May of 2017, over a million tons of rock and dirt buried a quarter-mile section of CA HWY 1, south of Big Sur. The slide closed a 12-mile segment from Ragged Point to Gorda. In July of 2018, Hwy 1 reopened after a herculean effort by engineers and workers to remove the debris and rebuild the road.

About the Author: Mary Charlebois is a freelance journalist and photographer. Her home base is the north coast of California. Her travels include domestic and international destinations. See more of her work at MaryGo.

Byways • 39


Sea Lions rest in Newport harbor. Photos courtesy Oregon Coast Aquarium.

Oregon’s Coast Aquarium he Oregon coast is calling you to Newport where sandy and rocky shores and coastal waters. Seapunk: Powered by Imagination is the newest you can immerse yourself in the sea at the Oregon exhibit at the Oregon Coast Aquarium. The exhibit is Coast Aquarium. The Aquarium, which opened in 1992, is a nonprofit, modeled after a subgenre of science fiction, art, technolpublic aquatic and marine science exhibition facility offering educational programs and exhibits. The exhibits showcase seabirds, marine mammals, fishes, invertebrates and plants primarily native to the Oregon coast. The Aquarium seeks to provide a balanced, informed view of the wealth and fragility of coastal resources and promote environmental awareness, conservation and stewardship. Approximately 420,000 visitors come to the Aquarium each year. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is situated on 39-acres overlooking Yaquina Bay, adjacent to an estuary and opposite Newport’s Historic Bayfront and working harbor. The Aquarium broadens the economic base of the Newport community and attracts visitors from all over the world. The Aquarium is consistently rated among the nation’s top aquariums, most recently by the Travel Channel, USA Today, Coastal Living, Parents Magazine, Forbes Traveler and 10Best.com.

T

Indoor Exhibits The Aquarium’s indoor exhibits feature galleries that represent the marine life and habitats found in Oregon’s 40 • Byways


ogy and fashion inspired by 19th-century industrial steam-powered machinery: Steampunk. Experience an underwater fantasy that follows the travails of “Phineas K. Brinker” – a retro-futuristic and intrepid inventor who strands in a submarine at the bottom of the Pacific Ocean.

feet above the bottom, these tunnels create the sense of walking beneath the sea. Visitors nearly experience 360degree views of the 3,500 sea creatures in

g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W

these exhibits. The exhibit is designed for guests to

In order to survive underwater, Brinker rebuilds the crippled submarine into a modern marvel of engineering by constructing imaginative variations on contraptions you may be familiar with today. Seapunk: Powered by Imagination transforms the spectacle of the typical aquarium gallery by merging Victorian-era and futuristic technologies with marine exploration. The Aquarium’s Passages of the Deep exhibit allows the visitor to literally immerse themselves in the ocean realm that exists right off the Oregon coast. A series of underwater walkways leads the visitor from the dark, quiet canyons of the Orford Reef, through the sparkling and teeming waters of Halibut Flats, and finally into the vast blue expanse of the Open Sea. As you pass through these three ecosystems, you symbolically move further into the Pacific Ocean, encountering vastly different animals along the way. Passages of the Deep is a 1.32-million-gallon exhibit featuring three expansive ocean habitats connected by a series of tunnels that stretch under water for 200 feet. Suspended eight feet below the water’s surface and eight

Octopus Encounter

view the changing underwater landscape, starting with Oregon’s rocky coastlines in the Orford Reef Exhibit, out to the Open Sea Exhibit that resembles the ocean environment far off shore. Halibut Flats encounters a submerged shipwreck in this habitat where sunlight is abundant but kelp is notably absent. Here, interconnected species form a vibrant underwater community. In addition to the stur-

Harbor seal at the Aquarium. Byways • 41


deo i V for k c Cli

Passages of the Deep is a 1.32million-gallon exhibit featuring three expansive ocean habitats connected by a series of tunnels. geon, lingcod, halibut and flounder that patrol the shipwreck, the sandy ocean floor is a resting ground for well camouflaged skates, a disk-shaped species of fish related to sharks and rays. Open Sea takes you on an undersea adventure that ends in the Open Sea exhibit, which represents the largest environment on Earth. Pools of light reach into the depths creating the illusion of endless stretches of water. This 875,000 gallon exhibit is alive with five species of sharks, bat rays and schools of anchovy, salmon and mackerel. The sharks are particularly popular with Aquarium visitors and all species are native to Oregon coastal waters, including the largest specimen, the Broadnose Sevengill Shark.

Outdoor Exhibits Outdoor exhibits are characterized by rugged cliffs, caves and pools that are home to the Aquarium’s sea otters, 42 • Byways

harbor seals and California sea lions, a giant Pacific octopus and turkey vultures. Tufted puffins and other ocean going birds are the stars of the Aquarium’s Seabird Aviary, which is one of the largest walk-through aviaries in North America. The Sea Otter Exhibit is home to rescued male sea otters that were found as abandoned pups along the coasts of Alaska and California. These animals comprise the largest population of sea otters in the state of Oregon. The Seal and Sea Lion Exhibit features above and

Sea Lion gets his teeth brushed.


underwater viewing windows for visitors to observe the exhibit’s resident Harbor seals and California sea lions. The sprawling Seal and Sea lion Exhibit contains up to 90,000 gallons of seawater and is as deep as fifteen feet in some areas, allowing the animals to dive, twist, twirl and leap as they would in the wild. The Seabird Aviary, one of the largest in North America, exhibits five seabird species (tufted puffins, horned puffins, common murres, pigeon guillemots and rhinoceros auklets) and one shorebird species (black oystercatchers) native to the Oregon coast. The Aquarium offers some unique behind the scenes opportunities as well. Octopus Encounters offer guests the opportunity to interact and shake hands, or tentacles, with one of the most intelligent creatures in the ocean, a Giant Pacific Octopus. This behind-the-scenes tour includes educational information about the care of this amazing invertebrate. The Dive the Aquarium program lets certified scuba divers take a plunge into the Passages of the Deep exhibits. Named “Best shore dive on the Oregon coast”, this fee-based program offers visitors the opportunity to swim with animals native to the marine environments of the Pacific Northwest without the visibility and turbulence challenges divers frequently experience off of Oregon’s coast.

A sea turtle is returned to the wild after rehab at the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Sleepovers, the Sleep in the Deep program offers visitors a chance to roll out their sleeping bags inside the Passages of the Deep tunnel as sharks, fish and rays circle above and below! You will have the Aquarium to yourself as you explore the exhibits after-hours. Seasonal Celebrations. The Aquarium schedules events all year to enhance visitors’ experiences. From spooky Trick or Treat Street, to the festive cheer of Sea of Lights, to conservation-oriented celebrations like World Oceans Day, there are special events to suit guests of all ages and interests. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is available for special events, parties, meetings, weddings and receptions. Catering services are offered for groups of 30 to 300 or more. More information is available at https://aquarium.org

The Yaquina Head Light is located near the mouth of the Yaquina River near Newport. Photos courtesy Oregon Coast Museum.

Byways • 43


Gatlinburg’s SkyBridge is the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in North America. Photos courtesy Gatlinburg SkyLift Park. 44 • Byways


Gatlinburg’s New SkyBridge

Byways • 45


he new SkyBridge in Gatlinburg, TN is the longest rience in the Smokies. From the top of the Gatlinburg SkyLift, the SkyBridge pedestrian suspension bridge in North America, and the most spectacular and awe-inspiring expe- quite literally crosses the sky as it stretches 680 feet across a deep valley. Guests are able to walk across at their own pace, taking in the views and enjoying the spectacular setting before walking back when they’re ready. With a height of 140 feet at its midpoint, the SkyBridge is a spectacular but easily attainable experience. A highlight of the crossing are glassfloor panels in the middle of the span, where you can walk on glass while looking down to the cannon below. The SkyBridge joins the SkyLift and SkyDeck at Gatlinburg’s Skylift Park, which has offered visitors Gatlinburg’s best views and most memorable experience since 1954. For additional information:

T

https://www.gatlinburgskylift.com

46 • Byways


Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2019 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter

Advertisers Index DirectTV. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Earthlink Internet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Jamestown — Yorktown, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Randolph County, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Springfield Tourism, Kentucky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 United States Naval Academy, Maryland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Byways • 47


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.