Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations
Great American Roads California’s Route 1 The Great River Road in Wisconsin Branson’s Highway 76 The Arcadia Barn on Route 66
ideo V r o ick f
Cl
Byways • 2
Instant Connect
Direct one-click digital links to our Advertisers
Byways Magazine ŠCopyright 2018 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. For more than 35 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada. Byways is published in three versions. They is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 http://bywaysmagazine.com
Byways • 3
PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
any roads in the United States It fills up again in December when the city dresses up for are called scenic, but what Christmas. Heading north I visited the Great River Road in constitues a true scenic Wisconsin. It took 3 days to cover nearly 250 miles travbyway? Good question, which we try eling north on Wisconsin Route 35 along the Mississippi to answer in this issue of Byways. River. California’s historic Route 1 is now The Wisconsin Great River Road is part of the tenofficially open for business, and it’s a state Great River Road National Scenic Byway, which fitting way to lead off Byways annual Great American follows the Mississippi River for 3,000 miles through ten Roads issue. states, from northern The 80-year old highway Minnesota to the Gulf of runs along most of the Mexico. Pacific coastline of The communities along the California. At a total of just Wisconsin Great River Road over 655.8 miles, it is the are among the oldest in the longest state route in Midwest, with some dating to California. the 1600s. Before European After numberous mudsettlement, Native American slides took their toll, Route tribes called the river corridor 1 is officially open for home. unfettered and unforgetI enjoyed visiting some of table cruising, thanks to the the 33 riverfront communirecent $54 million Cal Cruising the Mississippi ties, explored the high bluffs Trans reconstruction effort. River on the La Crosse overlooking the Mississippi Its southern terminus is at Queen. Byways photo. River, and met many of the Interstate 5 (I-5) near Dana local residents who call the Point in Orange County and its northern terminus is at US 101 near Leggett in River Road home. It was a trip I would take again in a heartbeat. Mendocino County. Oklahoma has more than 400 miles of what is now In addition to connecting the coastal cities and comknown as Historical Route 66, the most drive-able miles munities along its path, California Route 1 provides of any of the eight states the highway passes through. access to beaches, parks, and other attractions along the The Arcadia Round Barn is one of the most-phocoast, making it a popular route for tourists. The route tographed icons on the trail from Chicago to Santa annually helps bring several billion dollars to the state’s Monica. Learn how this unlikely barn, built some 28 tourism industry. From the Santa Monica Pier to Southern California years before Route 66 opened, became one of its most beraches, to Big Sur and the Golden Gate Bridge, famous attractions. In What’s Happening, we look at a national effort to California Route 1 has been called one of America’s preserve Route 66, one of “America’s 11 Most most scenic iconic drives. Endangered Historic Places.” Route 66 provided a vital Next stop, Missouri Route 76. It is the most famous transportation corridor connecting the Midwest with road in perhaps the state’s most famous city. It’s known southern California. It was the shortest, best-weather as “County Music Boulevard,” and has shaped highway across the nation until it was bypassed by the Branson’s growth from a small resort town to one of the Interstate Highway System. country’s leading entertainment destinations. In Virginia, we learn about American Evolution, the Branson is relatively isolated from major cities and 2019 National Commemoration of the 400th anniversary Interstates. The fact that over ten million people visit of key historical events that occurred in Virginia in 1619 here every year would seem unlikely. and continue to influence America today. About 12,000 people live in Branson, but it has the We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. infrastructure of a city six to eight times its size. In the summer it has that many when the tourist season peaks.
M
Byways • 4
o Vide r o f lick
C
Click for
Video
Byways • 5
6 • Byways
Volume 35, Issue No. 5 2018 On the cover. The winding road of California Route 1, along the Pacific Ocean in Big Sur. For more on Great American Roads, turn to page 8. Photo courtesy Iris Papillon on Unsplash.
Features Great American Roads 2018. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Scenic Byways in the USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 California Route 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Branson’s Route 76 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The Great River Road in Wisconsin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 The Arcadia Round Barn on Oklahoma’s Route 66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Austin, Minnesota - The Spam Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Departments Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
What’s Happening Public Asked to Get Its Kicks on Route 66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 400th Anniversary of Jamestown Events Nears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Coming in future issues of Byways ...Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads, Rivers & Lakes, Oceans and much more!
Next Up: Dams & Bridges. Right, the Brooklyn Bridge in New York City. One of a number of iconic dams and bridges to be featured in the next issue of Byways. Photo courtesy Hannes Ri on Unsplash.
Byways • 7
Scenic Byways in the USA any roads and highways in the United States the country that remains with the official scenic designaare labeled scenic byways for having excep- tion: U.S. Route 40 Scenic. Scenic byways in the United States also include state, tional scenic, historical, archaeological, natuNational Scenic Byway, National Forest Scenic Byways ral, cultural, or recreational significance. These scenic and Bureau of Land Management Back Country Byways routes are formally designated by national, state, or local programs which designate roads or routes as scenic agencies in recognition of these qualities, and many are byways due to some unique characteristics. also preserved or managed with special legislation and National Parkways are scenic roads in the National funding beyond what is required for ordinary road mainPark System built for recreational driving through scenic tenance. Several agencies of the United States federal govern- or historic areas. Unlike most scenic routes, National Parkways are built with a buffer of park land along both ment are authorized to designate and manage scenic byways. The National Scenic Byway Foundation, a not-forprofit organization, was founded in 2003 to support efforts for development, management and marketing of scenic byways by the Federal Highway Administration and byway organizations. Many individual state governments also sponsor programs for designating scenic byways, which is often the first step towards the designation of a National Scenic Byway by the Federal Highway Administration. Generally the state byways are nominated by local communities with the assistance of the state’s department of natu- The Blue Ridge Parkway curves around Grandfather Mountain in ral resources and tourism North Carolina. Phioto courtesy Ken Thomas. offices and then designated by the state’s department of transportation. Forty-eight U.S. sides of the roadway. They also may have large satellite states and the District of Columbia manage scenic parks or recreation areas built periodically along their byways programs that operate as part of the National length. National Historic Trail is an officially recognized trail Scenic Byways Program. with national historic significance in the United States. Tourist highways may be formed when existing roads are promoted with traffic signs and advertising material. They are part of the National Trails System. National Historic Trails were authorized under the Some tourist highways such as the Blue Ridge Parkway National Parks and Recreation Act of 1978, amending are built especially for tourism purposes. Others may be the National Trails System Act of 1968, which had introroadways enjoyed by local citizens in areas of unique or duced National Scenic Trails and National Recreation exceptional natural beauty. Still others, such as the Trails. National Scenic Trails and National Historic Lincoln Highway in Illinois are former main roads, only Trails may only be designated by an act of Congress. designated as “scenic” after most traffic bypasses them. National Historic Trails are designated to protect the This type of roadway is commonly termed a scenic highremains of significant overland or water routes to reflect way. In the United States, a scenic route may also refer to a the history of the nation. Most of them are scenic hightype of special route of the U.S. highway system that way routes and are not hiking trails, although they protravels through a particularly beautiful area. These spe- vide opportunities for hiking and other outdoor activities cial routes, which boast “Scenic” banners are typically along their routes. Only one is a water trail, the Captain longer than the “parent route”. There is only one route in John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail. 8 • Byways
M
r Video Click fo
Byways • 9
California Route 1
10 • Byways
Pigeon Point Lighthouse was built in 1871 to guide ships on the Pacific coast of California. At 115 feet it is the tallest lighthouse (tied with Point Arena Light) on the West Coast. Still an active Coast Guard aid to navigation, it is located on California Route 1, between Santa Cruz and San Francisco. The highway provides ready access to a large number of visitors each year. Photo courtesy © Frank Schulenburg / CC BY-SA 4.0. Byways • 11
Bixby Creek Bridge on California Route 1 at Big Sur is one of the most photographed bridges in the country due to its aesthetic design. Photo courtesy Adrian on Unsplash.
C
alifornia Highway 1’s recent reopening allows travelers to do what they love: explore America’s most iconic coastal thoroughfare. From seascape vistas and elephant seal watching, to easy access to some of California’s greatest landmarks, the now 80-year-old Highway 1 is officially open for unfettered and unforgettable cruising, thanks to the recent $54 million Cal Trans reconstruction effort.
655.8 Miles State Route 1 runs along most of the Pacific coastline of California. At a total of just over 655.8 miles, it is the longest state route in California. SR 1 has several portions designated as either Pacific Coast Highway, Cabrillo Highway, Shoreline Highway, or Coast Highway. Its southern terminus is at Interstate 5 (I-5) near Dana Point in Orange County and its northern terminus is at US 101 near Leggett in Mendocino County. The highway is designated as an All-American Road. In addition to providing a scenic route to numerous attractions along the coast, the route also serves as a major thoroughfare in the Greater Los Angeles Area, the San Francisco Bay Area, and several other coastal urban areas. 12 • Byways
National Scenic Byway The Big Sur section from San Luis Obispo to Carmel is an official National Scenic Byway. The entire route is designated as a Blue Star Memorial Highway to recognize those in the United States armed forces. In Southern California, the California State Legislature has designated the segment between Interstate 5 (I-5) in Dana Point and US 101 near Oxnard as the Pacific Coast Highway. Between US 101 at the Las Cruces junction (8 miles south of Buellton) and US 101 in Pismo Beach, and between US 101 in San Luis Obispo and Interstate 280 in San Francisco, the legislature has designated SR 1 as the Cabrillo Highway, after the Portuguese explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo. The legislature has also designated the route as the Shoreline Highway between the Manzanita Junction near Marin City and Leggett.
Beach Access In addition to connecting the coastal cities and communities along its path, SR 1 provides access to beaches, parks, and other attractions along the coast, making it a popular route for tourists. The route annually helps bring
several billion dollars to the state’s tourism industry. The route runs right beside the coastline, or close to it, for the most part, and it turns several miles inland to avoid several federally controlled or protected areas such as Vandenberg Air Force Base, Diablo Canyon Power Plant and Point Reyes National Seashore. Segments of SR 1 range from a rural two-lane road to an urban freeway. Because of the former, long distance through traffic traveling between the coastal metropolitan areas are instead advised to use faster routes such as US 101 or I-5. At its southernmost end in Orange County, SR 1 terminates at I-5 in Capistrano Beach in Dana Point. It then travels west into the city center. After leaving Dana Point, SR 1 continues northwest along the coast through Laguna Beach and Crystal Cove State Park. SR 1 also at times runs concurrently with US 101, most notably through a 54-mile stretch in Ventura and Santa Barbara counties, and across the
California Route 1 Map courtesy Chinissai.
Venice Beach. Photo courtesy Ryan Waring on Unsplash.
Byways • 13
The Ritz-Carlton hotel overlooks Half Moon Bay. Photo courtesy Puia Zahedi. Golden Gate Bridge. ry. Plan your journey to drive the Highway 1 Discovery Highway 1 is more than an awe-inspiring link Route and see what California’s coast has to offer. between Carmel and Cambria, it also boasts a rich histoThe Santa Monica Pier. Photo courtesy Matthew LeJune on Unsplash.
14 • Byways
The Golden Gate Bridge from Vista Point in San Francisco. Photo courtesy Simon Shim on Unsplash. Byways • 15
California Rte. 1 Fun Facts • When the groundbreaking began in 1919, the highway was originally estimated to cost $1.5 million and when completed almost 20 years later, the road cost $10 million. • Convicts from San Quentin were paid 35¢ per day as well as reductions in their sentence to help build the road. • 70,000 pounds of dynamite were used to clear the terrain for road construction. • Bixby Bridge in Big Sur was originally built using 300,000 ft. of Douglas fir. • There are a total of 33 bridges along the highway. • Highway 1 runs through more than 10 counties. • As the longest state route in California, it stretches more than 600 miles! • Trip Advisor travelers say Highway 1 “embraces the mood of dreamers and wanderers” and is a “must on your bucket list” to visit the Elephant Seal Rookery and drive to Hearst Castle. • Travel & Leisure ranked Highway 1 as one of “America’s Most Iconic Drives.” Malibu Lifeguard Shack. Photo courtesy Darin R. McClure. California Route 1 hugs the coastline in Big Sur. Photo courtesy Robson Hatsukami Morgan on Unsplash.
16 • Byways
Byways • 17
Branson’s Route 76, “Country Music Boulevard” By Bill Graves
The Titanic on Branson’s Route 76. Photos courtesy Bill Graves. 18 • Byways
M
issouri Route 76 is the most famous road in perhaps the state’s most famous city. It’s known as “County Music Boulevard” in Branson where it is the address for many of the theaters and attractions that have put Branson in a class of its own among American tourists. Last year Branson ranked 20th among overnight destinations in the country. The bow of the HMS Titanic –- at least a half-scale replica, along with the iceberg that sank the ship — is perhaps the most prominent landmarks on Route 76. Opened in 2006, the “ship” contains 20 galleries displaying hundreds of artifacts. Since New York was the U.S. destination for the ill-fated ocean liner that sailed from England and sunk 1912, why is the museum here, I asked the owner? She said, “The ship's passengers and crew were from all over the country and it is their story that we are telling here.” “Boarding” the ship-museum, you receive a boarding pass of an actual Titanic passenger or crew member. At the end of the self-guided tour, in the Titanic Memorial Room, you discover the fate of the person whose name you have been carrying. Displayed there are the names of the 2208 passengers and crew, along with a picture of each of the survivors and a brief note on how their lives turned out. But it’s music and entertainment that Branson is really about. People compare it to Las Vegas. I am not going to do that – although it’s tempting, the con-
trast is dramatic and very real. If you want to, you can sit on the shore at Table Rock Lake here and not see another person until you want to. Or you can go into town, be surrounded by people, and sit in a few of the 67,557 theater seats there and see three shows a day; each unique, probably for as many days as you have to spend here. And when you thought that you had seen them all, new shows would be opening. The shows are heavy in country music and comedy, but gospel is often in the mix. I think the most popular show tune is probably “God Bless America.” Branson is in southwestern Missouri, 15 miles from Arkansas, deep in the hills and hollows of the Ozarks. Its beginnings, as well as its popularity, are inextricably tied to its location. These Ozark hills were settled by farmers, descendants of farming people from England, Scotland and Ireland. Staunch individualists, they were used to eking a living from small farms. Their legacy here is a strong work ethic, devotion to family and pride in self-sufficiency. Branson is relatively isolated from major cities and Interstates. The fact that over ten million people visit here every year would seem unlikely, especially considering that it has no municipal airport. It does have a private one that takes commercial flights. About 12,000 people live in Branson, but it has the infrastructure of a city six to eight times its size. In the summer it has that many when the tourist season peaks. It fills up again in December when the city dresses up for Christmas. The Branson Belle Showboat.
Byways • 19
Entertainment on the Branson Belle Showboat. Photos courtesy Bill Graves. Since Andy Williams performed here for many years – he died in 2012 – he and his music is heard over town during the Christmas Holidays. Even on the speakers on streets downtown around Branson Landing. “It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year” is hands-down the most popular. Andy’s Moon River Theater, now owned by Jimmy Osmond of Osmond Brothers, always has a special Christmas show. Branson has two Christmas parades, one in November and one in December. Many of the headliners from the shows in town appear. And there is always a performance by “Elvis Presley.” Branson even has a showboat on Table Rock Lake called the Branson Belle. It goes out at least twice a day on two and a half hour cruises that include dinner and a show that I can really recommend. It’s a lot of fun. I knew before I came that this was the Bible belt. But I didn’t know that Branson was the buckle – and a silver one that is constantly polished. Branson’s publicity puts it less metaphorically, using words like “family orientated” and “wholesome entertainment.” It’s all the same. I would call it a place where Christian values and the best in American patriotism are proudly on display, with no apologies offered or even considered. And it obvi20 • Byways
The Branson Belle on Table Rock Lake. Byways photo.
ously plays well: Twenty percent of the hotel rooms in all Casinos have tried to move in, but the people here of Missouri are here in Branson. The same can be said don’t want them. Apparently, Branson visitors don’t for RV facilities – 35 campgrounds with 2870 sites. either – their increasing numbers attest to that. Theaters sell popcorn, candy and drinks in the lobbies, but nothing stronger than root beer. Branson has its share of pubs and bars, but to work in one a person has to take a “liquor training course” conducted by the city. The intent is to have “responsible sellers of alcohol.” Branson’s Vacation Guide – it has 154 pages – says on its cover that it “shines the spotlight on you.” And they mean just that. If a magician needs a person to suspend in midair, he always finds someone in the audience eager to go on stage and be suspended. When “Elvis” needs a girl to sing to – well, they line up for that. It’s all in good fun. Our military veterans are recognized and saluted at every show. I was always amazed at how many veterans there were in an audience when we were asked to stand. I left Branson feeling good about the country and Branson.
Christmas Entertainment in Branson.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America.
Byways • 21
Wisconsin’s Great River Road By Stephen Kirchner
22 • Byways
Alma's Buena Vista Overlook. The scenic vista 500 feet above Alma and the Mississippi River Valley has a natural viewing platform where visitors can watch barges traveling up the river and locking through Lock Dam #4 . Photo courtesy Scott Wolf. Byways • 23
Villa Louis in Praire du Chien. Byways photo.
s I crossed over the Mississippi River Bridge into tlement, Native American tribes called the river corridor Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, my journey north home. Today, visitors will see remnants of the Oneota, on Wisconsin’s Great River Road was about to Hopewell and other ancient cultures through the burial begin. mounds and effigy mounds found up and down the It would take 3 days to travel the nearly 250 miles travWisconsin Great River Road. eling north on Wisconsin Route 35 along the Mississippi Miles of wetlands and untouched river-bottom forests River. that run along more than two thirds of the Wisconsin For more than 80 years, Wisconsin residents and visiGreat River Road are a result of an Act of Congress in tors alike have found fun and adventure on the Great 1924 that established the Upper Mississippi River River Road, the state’s only National Scenic Byway. The Great River Road is home to breathtaking bluff National Wildlife Refuge. views, countless recreational activities and old-fashPrairie du Chien ioned hospitality. Located just above the confluence of the Mississippi The Wisconsin Great River Road is part of the tenand Wisconsin rivers, Praire du Chien is the oldest state Great River Road National Scenic Byway, which European settlement on the Upper Mississippi River. follows the Mississippi River for 3,000 miles through ten With its history dating back to the 17th century, many states, from northern Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. frontier stories had their roots in the town. Established in 1938 by Franklin Roosevelt, the Great In 1800 Prairie du Chien was a frontier fur trade outRiver Road is America’s oldest and longest National post where French was the dominant language. A centuScenic Byway. ry later it was a bustling regional trade center with rail The communities along the Wisconsin Great River links to every major city in the nation. Road are among the oldest in the Midwest, with some www.prairieduchien.org communities dating to the 1600s. Before European set-
A
24 • Byways
Fort Crawford Fort Crawford Museum stands on the site of the old fort. It was one of a number of forts constructed along the Upper Mississippi River to project United States presence on the frontier. The garrisons were engagedmainly in keeping peace between white settlers and Native Americans. In 1829 Fort Crawford was relocated from an island to the mainland of Prairie du Chien, with construction directed by future U.S. President, Colonel Zachary Taylor. Ironically, he was assisted by Lieutenant Jefferson Davis, who would become President of the Confederate States during the Civil War. The garrison from Fort Crawford participated in the Black Hawk War in 1832. After the Battle of Bad Ax, Black Hawk surrendered to Colonel Taylor, and was escorted by Lt. Davis to imprisonment in St. Louis. After the Mexican War, there was little need for Fort Crawford, and it was abandoned in 1856. www.fortcrawfordmuseum.com
Villa Louis Villa Louis is a 25-acre site located along the Mississippi River which was the home of the Dousman family from 1843 to 1913. The house has been restored to reflect the period from 1893 to 1898. Villa Louis attracts thousands of visitors each year and is open May through October.
Great River Road in Alma, Wisconsin. Byways photo.
The Mississippi River at dusk. Photo courtesy La Crosse Area CVB.
Byways • 25
Valley Fish and Cheese. Byways photo. St. Feriole Island, where Villa Louis is located, has a number of historic sites. The Villa Louis grounds are the site of the Battle of Prairie du Chien, the only battle fought in Wisconsin during the War of 1812. Re-enactments are held every year in July. www.villalouis.wisconsinshistory.org
Valley Fish and Cheese A local attraction which is also a store is Valley Fish and Cheese. It carries a variety of smoked fish, turtle meat, fresh and frozen fish and seafood. Plus, of course, a complete line of Wisconsin cheeses. You will want to take your photo on the world’s largest hand-carved sturgeon! http://valleyfishpdc.com From Prairie de Chien I headed north, and the next stop was Genoa, on the banks of the Mississippi River with tall bluffs.
Great River Road Interpretive Center Genoa is home to the new Great River Road Interpretive Center, which is part of the Genoa National Fish Hatchery. https://www.fws.gov/midwest/genoa The center, which opened in June, offers visitors the opportunity to learn about the natural resources of the Upper Mississippi River. Educational exhibits go beyond the story of the hatchery and feature significant histories of the area, including the Battle of Bad Ax, the final battle of the Black Hawk War. 26 • Byways
The La Crosse Queen. Photo by Kyle Herlitzke, courtesy of the LaCrosse Area CVB.
The Great River Road Interpretive Center opened in June. Byways photo.
The Genoa Fish Hatchery rears 23 species of fish, self-guided tours are offered. The area has 17 open-air including trout, northern pike, and walleye. Guided and ponds and six fish raceways. Because of its location at the confluence of the Bad Ax and Mississippi Rivers, the La Crosse Chapter of the Audubon Society ranks the hatchery as a top location for bird watching.
La Crosse Next I overnighted in La Crosse, the largest city on the Great River Road in Wisconsin. With a population of over 50,000, the city boasts many historic buildings and a large downtown district which dates back to the 1800s, when La Crosse was one of Wisconsin’s most important centers for trade and commerce. The area’s most prominent land feature is Grandad Bluff, located on the east side of the valley. A drive to the top provides stunning views of the city and the Mississippi River valley below. From here you can view three states, Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin. I enjoyed magnificent views of the sunset over the Mississippi River at a dinner on the rooftop of the Charmant Hotel in La Crosse.
Beer Town Then it was off to the Pearl Street Brewery for a tour and tasting. La Crosse is a beer town. It’s been that way for more than 160 years. The city was home to The G. Heileman Brewing Company, which by 1983 had become the fourth largest brewer in the country, behind only Anheuser-Busch, Miller, and Stroh. The company at the time was brewing over 17 million barrels and was earning over $1.3 billion per year. But by 1991 the brewery had closed in La Crosse. Today, the name has become part of Pabst Brewing Company. However, Byways • 27
World’s Largest Six Pack. Byways photo. none of its operations are in La Crosse. They are gone now, but replaced by new entrants like Pearl Street. Pearl Street Brewery, founded in1999, has been producting award-winning beers ever since. La Crosse is also home to the World’s Largest Six Pack, located at City Brewery. Iconic aging tanks are wrapped to resemble giant cans of La Crosse Lager. https://pearlstreetbrewery.com https://www.citybrewery.com
Mississippi, and passing through Lock Dam #4 along with views of sand islands and backwaters. Alma is designated a National Historic District, preserving over 220 acres in this small river town. Alma is also a prime birding site, and bald eagle viewing is popular. http://almawisconsin.com/attractions.html
Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum
Next stop was Pepin, near the birthplace of Laura Ingalls Wilder, which has become all things Laura. Visit Another highlight of traveling the Great River Road is the museum, a replica of the little Cabin In the Woods, the ability to experience a cruise on a riverboat on the Mississippi River. I boarded the La Crosse Queen, a modern-day replica of the early 1900s steamboats which plied the river. She cruises daily and is one of the few authentic paddlewheel riverboats still in operation today. http://lacrossequeen.com
La Crosse Queen
Alma A visit to Alma’s Buena Vista Overlook was a stunning highlight of my visit. The scenic vista 500 feet above the town and the river provides an unobstructed view of barges traveling up and down the 28 • Byways
Pearl Street Brewery tour. Photo by Dylan Overhouse, courtesy La Crosse Area CVB.
r Video o f k c i l C
View of Pepin Lake from Stockholm, WI. Byways photo. and enjoy a festival the second week in September. In 1996, Pepin became the official starting point of the Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Highway, which links Laura Ingalls Wilder sites across the upper Midwest. https://www.lauraingallspepin.com
Stockholm A village of less than 100, Stockholm has evolved into a vibrant artist community. It is located on the shores of Lake Pepin. With Swedish roots, the town has become a favorite stop for visitors. Explore the galleries, crafts and dining here, and don’t miss a stop at the Stockholm Pie Company and General Store. https://www.stockholmwisconsin.com
Lake Pepin Lake Pepin is a naturally occurring lake, and the widest naturally occurring part of the Mississippi River. Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum. Byways photo.
The formation of the lake was caused by the backup of water behind the sedimentary deposits of the Chippewa River’s delta. It has a surface area of about 40 square miles and an average depth of 21 feet, which makes it the largest lake on the entire Mississippi River. The lake was named for Jean Pepin who settled on its shores in the late 1600s after exploring the Great Lakes. In 1922, a Minnesota resident invented the sport of water skiing on Lake Pepin. Today the size of Lake Pepin provides an ideal venue for sailing and many other water sports. My final night on the Great River Road was a unique Farwell Farm-to-Table potluck dinner at the Maiden Rock Winery and Cidery, hosted by the Lake Pepin Food Group, a local organic farmers organization. Most of the farmers, their families and others from the community turned out for this special Lake Pepin potluck. Maiden Rock Winery and Cidery is known for its varieties of small batch, artisan and hard apple ciders. https://www.pepinwisconsin.com I had traveled The Great River Road in Wisconsin, explored a sampling of the 33 river towns which parallel the Mississippi River, experienced side trips that included hiking, biking, fishing and paddling, and had enjoyed the hospitality of the local communities I visited. It was an adventure that was coming to an end all to soon. But one I would take again in a heartbeat. About the Author: Stephen Kirchner has been Editor & Publisher of Byways Magazine for 35 years. He is based in Louisville, KY. Byways • 29
Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves
T
his is Minnesota and the town is Austin. But the name painted across the front of the Visitors Bureau is “SPAM town USA,” as well it should be. This is where in 1937 it all began for SPAM — SPAM, as in SPiced-hAM, fully cooked, ready-to-eat, in a can with a flat front, now with a pull-tab top. It’s sold on every continent in the world — no market in Antarctica — still it’s as totally American as baseball and a Big Mac. Although Hormel Foods makes it in several places, including Denmark and Australia, SPAM’s hometown is Austin. It took on iconic status during World War II, like Lucky Strike cigarettes, Zippo lighters and Betty Grable. During the war, more than a million pounds of SPAM were shipped abroad to feed Allied troops. Our guys often ate it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They called The SPAM Museum. Photos courtesy Bill Graves.
30 • Byways
Austin, Minnesota it “ham that didn’t pass its physical,” and “meatloaf without basic training.” CBS newscaster Edward R. Murrow reported from London in 1942 that Christmas dinners were not lavish, but there was enough SPAM for everybody. The United
Kingdom is today second only to the United States in countries with the number of “SPAM fans.” South Korea is third. On the islands of the South Pacific during the war, Marines shared it with the natives. It caught on. More SPAM is consumed per capita in the Marianas today than anywhere else. On Guam, a person there eats an average of 16 cans a year. McDonald’s on Guam and Saipan have it on their menus. How many of those little, four-sided cans have they sold since 1937? They tell me here that they are pushing the eight billion mark. In the United States alone, they sell 100 million cans a year. Per capita, more SPAM is sold in Hawaii then any other state. Next in line is Alaska, Arkansas, Texas and Alabama. Your guess as to why is as good as anybody’s. Answers here range from cultural tastes to economics. “I was on a bus tour on Maui one time. The guide was telling us about the many ways Hawaiians use SPAM. He called it ‘Hawaiian Steak’.” Cheryl Corey, a life-long Austin resident, laughed as she told the story. “I had for-
Bill Graves and his can of SPAM!
can-a-day, that wall would feed any one of us for almost 10 years. Faced with that long-term prospect, with due respect to the SPAM people, I suspect we would be willing, even desperate, to share rather quickly. This museum is 16,500 square feet of pure fun. It’s like walking through a cartoon. It has buttons to push, games to play, and screens to watch; Kids love it. But it’s also full of memory prods that take us back to when life was simpler, slower and more orderly. And who had freezers back then? SPAM has been part of American life for three quarters of a century. It ranks up there on the nostalgia ladder with eating ice cream with a wooden spoon and drinking Coke from a bottle. This is a museum that you leave feeling good, and maybe hungry.
gotten that I was wearing a SPAM t-shirt. I’ll tell ya, when we all got off the bus, I was an instant celebrity.” A dozen restaurants in Austin have it on their menus. Creatively is the only limit as to how it is served. Across from the Visitors Bureau is the SPAM Museum. It’s one of the few museums in the country — not run by the federal government — that’s free. In the lobby is a wall of SPAM — 3,500 cans. At a rate of a
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
Byways • 31
The Arcadia Round Barn on Route 66 in Oklahoma By Kimberly Burk
32 • Byways
The Arcadia Round Barn on Route 66 in Oklahoma. Photo courtesy Kimberly Burk and Arcadia Round Barn.
Byways • 33
Volunteers help celebrate the Arcadia Round Barn. Photo courtesy Kimberly Burk and Arcadia Round Barn.
O
nce in a while, a visitor to the Arcadia Round Barn in Arcadia, Oklahoma, will remark that it was certainly smart of William Odor to build the giant wooden outbuilding right beside the well-traveled Route 66. The 60-foot-diameter landmark actually predated U.S. Highway 66 by about 28 years. But Odor did use his noggin when the railroad came through, which eventually brought the road to the barn. Odor built the circular barn in 1898 on what was then his 320-acre farm, and in 1902 the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad built tracks across his land. Odor and his neighbors then founded a town, which brought commerce and a train depot, which brought the Ozark Trail, then Oklahoma Route 7 and finally, in 1926, Highway 66.
Route 66, the most drive-able miles of any of the eight states the highway passes through. The 43-foot-tall Round Barn, often mistakenly called the Red Barn because of its authentic barn-red paint job, is one of the most-photographed icons on the trail from Chicago to Santa Monica.
400 Miles of Route 66 in Oklahoma Oklahoma has more than 400 miles of what is now known as Historical 34 • Byways
The Round Barn, circa 1940, prior to restoration.
Visitors marvel at the architecture, especially the domed loft, and are impressed to learn that volunteers replicated many of the original construction methods when they restored the barn beginning in the late 1980s. Tour guides and storyboards relate the tale of the structure’s origin and rescue in the lower level of the barn, which since 1992 has been operated as a museum by the Arcadia Historical and Preservation Society. Odor built the barn from burr oak harvested from the banks of the Deep Fork River. The green lumber was soaked in the river, shaped in a jig and carried by a team of mules more than a mile to the building site. The historical society does not have anything written by Odor as to why he made the barn round. Odor’s son said his father thought it would better withstand the storms of the tornado belt. It was erected during a time when round barns were popular across the Midwest and promoted by agricultural colleges as economical to build, efficient in terms of storage space and labor-saving for the farmer, who could work in a continuous motion. When it came time to put the floor in the loft, some of the workers observed that it would be a nice place to hold dances. They offered to pay the extra cost of installing a smooth hardwood floor if they could hold just three dances there. Odor agreed, and many more dances have been held
through the years, especially during the Great Depression and through the two world wars when people in the community needed something to look forward to on a Saturday night.
Arcadia Round Barn in the fall. Photo courtesy Robby Robinette. Byways • 35
ideo V r o f k Clic
The loft of the Arcadia Round Barn. Photo courtesy Kimberly Burk and Arcadia Round Barn.
36 • Byways
Among the artifacts in the barn is a restored buggy donated by volunteer Sam Gillaspy, who says a homesteading family drove it to many a dance from their farm about two miles east of Arcadia, which Gillaspy now owns. Gillaspy, who is 91, gives impromptu two-stepping lessons when he shows the loft to visitors on Mondays, which is his regular day to tell stories about the era in which the Round Barn was built. The barn hosts an acoustic jam session in the loft once a month, and the historical society earns money for barn maintenance by renting out the upstairs for weddings and other special events. The barn was sold to another family and eventually inherited by two sisters who could not afford the muchneeded repairs. Many people took pictures of the barn in its dilapidated state in the 1980s, thinking their photos might be the last taken while it was still standing. In 1988 the roof collapsed, just after the barn had been donated to the newly-formed Arcadia Historical and Preservation Society. Luke Robison, a retired building contractor from nearby Oklahoma City, restored the barn with the help of 15 fellow volunteers dubbed the “over-the-hill gang” because most were older than 60. The workers sifted through the rubble for clues about original construction techniques. They salvaged as much of the original material as possible, and took samples to mills for replicas. Robison asked contractor friends for heavy equipment loans. The roof’s 94 rafters, once again formed from soaked green oak, were lifted in place this time by a crane. People still scratch their heads as they ponder how Odor managed to do it the first time around.
Crown Jewel of Historic Route 66 The Round Barn “is one of the crown jewels of historic Route 66 and is visited by more than 30,000 people every year,” says Ann Young, president of the Arcadia Historical and Preservation Society. “Annually we receive visitors from all 50 states, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico and more than 80 foreign countries.” Route 66 was forever changed when the interstate highways were built, and in 1999 the National Park Service created the Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program to revitalize the historic road. Repairs to the Round Barn were made in 2005 with funds made possible by the program. But it is scheduled to sunset next year, and a bill pending in Congress would make Route 66 a National Historic Trail.
Route 66 Legislation The historical society has joined the Oklahoma Route 66 Association in support of House Resolution 801, which passed unanimously in the U.S. House and is awaiting a Senate vote. “We do not kid ourselves that these multitudes are
crossing oceans and continents only to visit the Round Barn,” Young wrote in her supporting letter. “It is the lure of the open blacktop road marked 66 crossing the American West from Chicago to Los Angeles with all of its associated nostalgia regarding travel prior to the creation of the interstate highway system that draws them here.” The Round Barn is open every day from 10am to 5pm. There is handicap-accessible parking on the north side of the barn, and the grounds offer a respite for travelers with picnic tables and large shade trees. Admission is free but donations are accepted for the ongoing maintenance of the property. www.arcadiaroundbarn.com/Round_Barn_Websi te/HOME.html About the Authur: Kimberly Burk, who had a lengthy career as a journalist in Texas and Oklahoma, joined the Arcadia Round Barn in January as director of volunteers and communications. She is also a travel writer, having visited much of the United States and several foreign countries. A native of Missouri, she grew up on a farm near the Mississippi River and exhibited dairy heifers as a 4-H project. She feels right at home in a barn. Byways • 37
Public Asked to Get Its Kicks on Route 66 to Secure Federal Historic Designation
Historic Route 66 near Amboy, CA. Photo courtesy Dietmar Rabich. he National Trust for Historic Preservation named the stories of historic sites along Route 66 and built supRoute 66 to its National Treasures portfolio and port for the National Historic Trail designation. Route 66 provided a vital transportation corridor conannounced plans to pursue National Historic Trail necting the Midwest with southern California. status for one of “America’s 11 Most Endangered Commissioned from 1926-1985, it was the shortest, Historic Places.” best-weather highway across the nation. A cross-section “Driving Route 66 is the quintessential American road of urban areas, panoramic scenery, tribal lands, and small trip,” said Amy Webb, senior field director of the rural towns, Route 66 travels more than 2,400 miles National Trust for Historic Preservation. “It is the most iconic, culturally-celebrated, and internationally- Restored Soulsby Service Station in Mount Olive, IL. Photo recognized stretch of highway in courtesy Patty Kuhn and Illinois Route 66 Heritage Project. America. By promoting this authentic experience, we can help preserve a beloved icon and at the same time, revive local economies in rural communities.” The National Trust is working with the Route 66 Road Ahead Partnership to reach out to organizations, businesses, local governments, and individuals across Route 66 to provide more information about National Historic Trails and what the designation could offer. National Historic Trails are nationally significant historical travel routes that are designated by Congress. A centerpiece of the campaign was a month-long road trip to help preserve the “Main Street of America.” During the road trip, the organization shared
T
38 • Byways
through 300 communities that more than 5.5 Santa Monica, CA, million Americans call home. The hundreds of communities along the end point of Route 66 contain historic places, idiosyncrat- Route 66. Photo ic character and cultural relevance. The inde- courtesy Ann pendent businesses, roadside architecture and kitschy roadside attractions that original- Kathrin Bopp on ly flourished along Route 66 have gradually Unsplash. diminished as travelers bypassed Route 66 for the Interstate, and continue to be threatened. A permanent National Historic Trail designation will bring greater public interest and investment to these communities, support the preservation of authentic Route 66 icons and encourage the economic revitalization of this living, evolving corridor of Americana. There are currently 19 National Historic Trails including the Santa Fe and Lewis & Clark Trails. This designation offers opportunities for federal assistance. The National Trust for Historic Preservation, a privately funded nonprofit organization, works to save America’s historic places. www.savingplaces.org
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W
The U-Drop Inn was built in 1936 in Shamrock, TX, along historic Route 66. The old gas station and café have been restored to act as the community’s chamber of commerce and visitor center, while preserving the building’s architectural features and historical authenticity. Photo courtesy Clinton Steeds.
Byways • 39
400th Anniversary of Jamestown Events Nears
Jamestown Settlement's Godspeed under sail in the Chesapeake Bay.
40 • Byways
A
merican Evolution, The 2019 National Commemoration of the 400th anniversary of key historical events that occurred in Virginia in 1619 and continue to influence America today, has begun with early promotions. Jamestown Settlement’s Godspeed, a re-creation of one of the three ships that brought America’s first permanent English colonists to Virginia in 1607, set sail to Baltimore and Alexandria in October to host public tours and school field trips to raise awareness of the 400th anniversary of events that shaped American history. The 2019 Commemoration is a sub-agency of the Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation, an educational institution of the Commonwealth of Virginia that administers Jamestown Settlement. The original Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery set sail from London on December 20, 1606, bound for Virginia. The ships carried 105 passengers and 39 crew members on the four-month transatlantic voyage. A 17th-century source noted that a total of 71 people were aboard the Susan Constant, 52 aboard the Godspeed and 21 aboard the Discovery. The expedition was sponsored by the Virginia Company of London, a business venture that had been organized to form a colony in Virginia. The fleet reached the Virginia coast in late April and, after two weeks of inland waterway exploration, arrived at the selected settlement site on May 13, 1607. At the time of the voyage, the Susan Constant
was about one year old and was leased from Dapper, Wheatley, Colthurst and other partners. The origins of the Godspeed and Discovery are uncertain. The Susan Constant and Godspeed returned to England in June 1607, while the Discovery remained in Virginia and was used for Chesapeake Bay and coastal exploration. Re-creations of the three ships are moored at Jamestown Settlement’s pier for visitors to board and explore. Visitors can learn about the four-and-a-half-month voyage from England and take part in periodic demonstrations of 17th-century piloting and navigation. Visit the ‘tween deck of the Susan Constant to learn about shipboard life and the tight conditions during the journey to Virginia. Try steering with a whipstaff or tiller, tie sailors’ knots, climb into a sailor’s bunk.
Jamestown Settlement The Jamestown Settlement re-creations have been designated “the official fleet of the Commonwealth” by the Virginia General Assembly. While one of the ships sails periodically from Jamestown Settlement to participate in commemorative and community events and host maritime outreach educational programs for students, most of the time all three can be seen at the museum. Costumed historical interpreters assist visitors in exploring the ships and learning about the 1607 voyage and 17th-century shipboard activities. https://www.historyisfun.org
Godspeed, Discovery & Susan Constant at Jamestown Settlement
Byways • 41
Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2018 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising Director 502-785-4875 Internet bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter
Advertisers Index Chillicothe Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Country Inns & Suites, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Dutchess Tourism, New York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Holiday Inn Express, Hummelstown (Hershey), Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 London-Laurel County Tourism, Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 PA Dutch Hotels, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Randolph County, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Spectrum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Springfield Tourism, Kentucky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
42 • Byways
Byways • 43